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The ragged coastline of Scotland. | 0:00:04 | 0:00:06 | |
With nearly 800 islands, it's 11,000 miles long. | 0:00:07 | 0:00:12 | |
You don't venture there without detailed charts, | 0:00:12 | 0:00:16 | |
radar, and satellite navigation. | 0:00:16 | 0:00:20 | |
There are warnings of gales in Rockall, Malin, | 0:00:22 | 0:00:24 | |
Hebrides, Baily, Fair Isle, Faroes and South East Iceland. | 0:00:24 | 0:00:29 | |
For centuries, death and the sea went hand in hand | 0:00:31 | 0:00:36 | |
for Scotland's fatalistic sailors and fishing folk | 0:00:36 | 0:00:38 | |
until one family dedicated itself to taming the dangerous waters. | 0:00:40 | 0:00:45 | |
The Lighthouse Stevensons. | 0:00:45 | 0:00:48 | |
I think the Stevensons' lighthouses saved | 0:00:48 | 0:00:51 | |
thousands and thousands of lives. | 0:00:51 | 0:00:53 | |
If it's Stevenson-built, it's built to last. | 0:00:53 | 0:00:57 | |
Robert Louis Stevenson refused to join the family business, | 0:00:58 | 0:01:03 | |
but wrote with pride: | 0:01:03 | 0:01:05 | |
"Whenever I smell salt water, | 0:01:05 | 0:01:08 | |
"I know that I am not far from one of the works of my ancestors." | 0:01:08 | 0:01:12 | |
Before the Lighthouse Stevensons the beacons on Scotland's coast | 0:01:23 | 0:01:29 | |
were few and primitive. | 0:01:29 | 0:01:30 | |
Scotland had two lighthouses in the 18th century. | 0:01:33 | 0:01:36 | |
One on the Isle of May, which was a tower with a fire on the top of it | 0:01:38 | 0:01:44 | |
which had to be kept burning all through the night. | 0:01:44 | 0:01:48 | |
Somebody would row out from | 0:01:48 | 0:01:50 | |
the Firth of Forth, dump a load of coal in the water. | 0:01:50 | 0:01:53 | |
He would go down with a sack on his back, | 0:01:53 | 0:01:56 | |
fish the coal out of the water, | 0:01:56 | 0:01:58 | |
winch it all the way up to the light | 0:01:58 | 0:02:01 | |
and then watch the whole thing go out as another rainstorm came over. | 0:02:01 | 0:02:05 | |
It was not a very satisfactory arrangement. | 0:02:05 | 0:02:07 | |
In the 1780s, a series of violent storms battered Scotland. | 0:02:07 | 0:02:12 | |
At sea, there was enormous loss of ships and lives. | 0:02:14 | 0:02:19 | |
It's always money that speaks loudest. | 0:02:19 | 0:02:22 | |
The fact that there was and always | 0:02:22 | 0:02:25 | |
had been huge loss of life was irrelevant. | 0:02:25 | 0:02:28 | |
What the ship owners were really bothered about was the fact that 20% | 0:02:28 | 0:02:31 | |
of total shipping got wrecked | 0:02:31 | 0:02:35 | |
and they wanted something done about it. | 0:02:35 | 0:02:38 | |
The British Government was pressed into setting up | 0:02:40 | 0:02:43 | |
the Northern Lighthouse Board. | 0:02:43 | 0:02:45 | |
It was formed in 1786 after a statute in the Houses of Parliament | 0:02:48 | 0:02:53 | |
decided that four lighthouses | 0:02:53 | 0:02:55 | |
would be "conducive", lovely word, | 0:02:55 | 0:02:57 | |
to the safety of mariners around the coast of Scotland. | 0:02:57 | 0:02:59 | |
A lot of people have got the conception | 0:02:59 | 0:03:02 | |
that the lighthouses were built to warn boats off the rocks. | 0:03:02 | 0:03:06 | |
To a certain extent that's true, but actually what lighthouses are, | 0:03:06 | 0:03:11 | |
they're signposts of the sea. | 0:03:11 | 0:03:13 | |
So each lighthouse that was built was a clearer signpost | 0:03:13 | 0:03:16 | |
for ships to go round the coast. | 0:03:16 | 0:03:18 | |
But who was to build the NLB's lights? | 0:03:20 | 0:03:22 | |
Marine engineering was in its infancy, | 0:03:24 | 0:03:27 | |
so the job went to a self made tinsmith who'd built | 0:03:27 | 0:03:30 | |
a successful business making street lights for Edinburgh. | 0:03:30 | 0:03:34 | |
He was the founder of the Stevenson dynasty, | 0:03:34 | 0:03:37 | |
but his name was Thomas Smith. | 0:03:37 | 0:03:41 | |
He applied to the NLB when | 0:03:41 | 0:03:45 | |
they were first established saying, I think I can help you, basically. | 0:03:45 | 0:03:51 | |
Virginia Maes-Wright is keeper of the Museum of Scottish Lighthouses. | 0:03:51 | 0:03:56 | |
What you're looking at is the initial creation | 0:04:01 | 0:04:04 | |
of the Northern Lights. | 0:04:04 | 0:04:06 | |
This simple receptacle, | 0:04:06 | 0:04:08 | |
this simple oil burner, with its wicks here | 0:04:08 | 0:04:10 | |
and the reservoir just at the back | 0:04:10 | 0:04:12 | |
would fit in, right into the small slot you can see at the back | 0:04:12 | 0:04:16 | |
of this, Thomas Smith's original reflector. | 0:04:16 | 0:04:19 | |
The reflector comprises of tiny facets of mirrors | 0:04:19 | 0:04:21 | |
stuck onto the back of a dish which points the light forwards. | 0:04:21 | 0:04:26 | |
This was Thomas Smith's design for the new street lighting in Edinburgh | 0:04:26 | 0:04:30 | |
and it what the Northern Lighthouse Board saw as the way forward. | 0:04:30 | 0:04:34 | |
Smith got off to a flying start - installing his first light | 0:04:34 | 0:04:38 | |
on the top of Kinnaird Castle in Fraserburgh. | 0:04:38 | 0:04:42 | |
This is where the NLB began. | 0:04:42 | 0:04:46 | |
And the first light was chosen for this headland. | 0:04:46 | 0:04:49 | |
This headland more or less being the stepping off point | 0:04:49 | 0:04:52 | |
for the Baltic trade. | 0:04:52 | 0:04:55 | |
Thomas Smith established the roof on top of the old castle here, and it's | 0:04:55 | 0:04:59 | |
been a light here ever since. | 0:04:59 | 0:05:01 | |
In just three years, | 0:05:06 | 0:05:08 | |
Smith also built a lighthouse on Scalpay in the Hebrides, | 0:05:08 | 0:05:13 | |
on North Ronaldsay in the Orkney Isles, | 0:05:13 | 0:05:16 | |
and on the Mull of Kintyre. | 0:05:16 | 0:05:18 | |
He learned and re-invented the science of lighthouse engineering | 0:05:18 | 0:05:22 | |
as he went along. | 0:05:22 | 0:05:25 | |
This is the Cloch lighthouse on the lower Clyde. | 0:05:26 | 0:05:30 | |
Thomas, a busy man, entrusted the installation of the lamp here to his | 0:05:30 | 0:05:34 | |
gifted young apprentice and stepson, Robert Stevenson. | 0:05:34 | 0:05:39 | |
This is where the start of the dynasty came. | 0:05:39 | 0:05:42 | |
It was with his third marriage he acquired a stepson, | 0:05:42 | 0:05:46 | |
called Robert Stevenson, | 0:05:46 | 0:05:49 | |
who was to go on to marry one of his daughters. | 0:05:49 | 0:05:53 | |
So the stepson was also to be his son-in-law as well. | 0:05:53 | 0:05:57 | |
Robert Stevenson in turn became Smith's stepson, | 0:05:59 | 0:06:03 | |
apprentice, son-in-law, and in 1800, business partner. | 0:06:03 | 0:06:09 | |
Over two decades Thomas Smith built or improved 13 lighthouses. | 0:06:11 | 0:06:18 | |
This is his work on Inchkeith in the Fort Estuary. | 0:06:18 | 0:06:21 | |
Because it was close to Edinburgh, | 0:06:21 | 0:06:23 | |
Inchkeith became a sort of lighthouse laboratory | 0:06:23 | 0:06:27 | |
where Smith and generations of the Stevensons | 0:06:27 | 0:06:29 | |
tested new lamps and lenses. | 0:06:29 | 0:06:32 | |
Many of Thomas's new lighthouses were in difficult, remote places. | 0:06:37 | 0:06:41 | |
Here on the Mull of Kintyre, every stone, every pane of glass, | 0:06:43 | 0:06:48 | |
and piece of machinery | 0:06:48 | 0:06:50 | |
had to be carried on horseback over a rough track | 0:06:50 | 0:06:52 | |
from the nearest landing place six miles away. | 0:06:52 | 0:06:55 | |
Looking away back, it was a very remote station | 0:06:56 | 0:07:01 | |
and nobody wanted to be here. | 0:07:01 | 0:07:03 | |
It was a right remote station in my granny and grandfather's days. | 0:07:03 | 0:07:07 | |
Lighthouses saved lives, | 0:07:09 | 0:07:13 | |
but they weren't always popular. | 0:07:13 | 0:07:14 | |
In a lot of the more remote island communities | 0:07:14 | 0:07:19 | |
they relied on a regular harvest | 0:07:19 | 0:07:22 | |
of wreck, and dead and dying shipping, | 0:07:22 | 0:07:26 | |
in order to collect raw materials for life. | 0:07:26 | 0:07:31 | |
For building boats, for building houses, for putting up fencing, | 0:07:31 | 0:07:34 | |
for pretty much all the essentials. | 0:07:34 | 0:07:36 | |
When Robert was working on Thomas's last lighthouse, Start Point, | 0:07:36 | 0:07:41 | |
on the Orkney isle of Sanday, he wrote to Thomas: | 0:07:41 | 0:07:45 | |
"You would hardly believe with what an evil eye | 0:07:45 | 0:07:47 | |
"the Wreck Brokers of Sanday view any improvement upon the coast, | 0:07:47 | 0:07:53 | |
"and how openly they regret it." | 0:07:53 | 0:07:56 | |
Thomas Smith was a brilliant inventor. | 0:07:56 | 0:07:58 | |
Start Point had the first revolving light in Scotland, | 0:07:58 | 0:08:03 | |
but he knew that lighthouses could only be as good as their keepers. | 0:08:03 | 0:08:08 | |
His sense of duty was drummed into them. | 0:08:08 | 0:08:10 | |
There was a strict rule, | 0:08:10 | 0:08:13 | |
and run quite a lot on naval or sea-based principles. | 0:08:13 | 0:08:20 | |
The strict regime imposed by Smith was passed down through generations | 0:08:20 | 0:08:25 | |
of keepers until modern times. | 0:08:25 | 0:08:29 | |
You were issued with a book of rules and regulations when you joined | 0:08:29 | 0:08:33 | |
and you religiously, well I religiously read it the first | 0:08:33 | 0:08:36 | |
station I was at, St Abbs, and then | 0:08:36 | 0:08:38 | |
everything was sort of regimented anyway. Each watch was | 0:08:38 | 0:08:41 | |
called at exactly the right time, so it wasn't too difficult to follow | 0:08:41 | 0:08:44 | |
the rules because they'd been set there for years and years and years. | 0:08:44 | 0:08:48 | |
NEWSREEL ANNOUNCER: 'Once the keeper is in the light room | 0:08:48 | 0:08:50 | |
'for his four hour shift | 0:08:50 | 0:08:52 | |
'he mustn't leave it. | 0:08:52 | 0:08:53 | |
'He mustn't read. | 0:08:53 | 0:08:54 | |
'He mustn't listen to the radio. | 0:08:54 | 0:08:57 | |
'That lens must never stop. | 0:08:57 | 0:09:01 | |
'If it's ever allowed to stop | 0:09:01 | 0:09:03 | |
'the keeper is liable to instant dismissal.' | 0:09:03 | 0:09:06 | |
In 1871, at Sumburgh Head on Shetland, | 0:09:09 | 0:09:14 | |
two keepers agreed not to report that their colleague | 0:09:14 | 0:09:16 | |
had fallen asleep while on watch. | 0:09:16 | 0:09:18 | |
All three men were sacked. | 0:09:18 | 0:09:21 | |
One was the Principal Keeper and had 23 years service. | 0:09:21 | 0:09:25 | |
In 1799, 70 ships foundered | 0:09:28 | 0:09:31 | |
in a three-day gale that battered the Scottish coast. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:35 | |
The most fatal hazard was the Bell Rock, | 0:09:35 | 0:09:38 | |
11 miles south-east of Arbroath. | 0:09:38 | 0:09:41 | |
Robert, now Chief Engineer to the Northern Lighthouse Board, | 0:09:44 | 0:09:47 | |
wanted to build a lighthouse on the reef. | 0:09:47 | 0:09:50 | |
But many though it impossible, | 0:09:50 | 0:09:53 | |
and Parliament refused to sanction it. | 0:09:53 | 0:09:56 | |
I think the powers that be felt that although he was | 0:09:56 | 0:09:59 | |
a good assistant to Thomas Smith, he just didn't have the experience to | 0:09:59 | 0:10:05 | |
do a major civil engineering structure | 0:10:05 | 0:10:08 | |
11 miles out to sea on a submerged rock. | 0:10:08 | 0:10:12 | |
But this was the era | 0:10:12 | 0:10:14 | |
of great Scottish engineers like Thomas Telford, | 0:10:14 | 0:10:18 | |
who was building the Ellesmere canal in Wales, | 0:10:18 | 0:10:21 | |
and John Rennie who had just completed a major bridge at Kelso. | 0:10:21 | 0:10:25 | |
They had the reputations that young Robert Stevenson lacked. | 0:10:25 | 0:10:29 | |
I think Robert felt that if the board | 0:10:29 | 0:10:31 | |
got Rennie involved then they could get their Act of Parliament. | 0:10:31 | 0:10:35 | |
The act was passed. | 0:10:35 | 0:10:38 | |
The deal was that Rennie, busy with many projects all over Britain, | 0:10:38 | 0:10:42 | |
would supervise and visit the Bell about once a year. | 0:10:42 | 0:10:48 | |
Robert, his ambitious assistant, was put in day-to-day command. | 0:10:48 | 0:10:53 | |
In 1807, Robert established this shore base in Arbroath. | 0:10:53 | 0:10:59 | |
From here, dressed stone was shipped out to the reef 11 miles away. | 0:10:59 | 0:11:05 | |
This splendid model | 0:11:05 | 0:11:06 | |
was presented to the museum in 1867 by the Northern Lighthouse Board. | 0:11:06 | 0:11:11 | |
It shows the Bell Rock Lighthouse | 0:11:11 | 0:11:14 | |
in the middle of being built, | 0:11:14 | 0:11:18 | |
and the model itself was apparently constructed | 0:11:18 | 0:11:21 | |
under the supervision of Robert Stevenson | 0:11:21 | 0:11:23 | |
and he made sure that the detail was correct on it. | 0:11:23 | 0:11:27 | |
They had to live on the boat to start with and, of course, | 0:11:27 | 0:11:30 | |
being landsmen they were all horribly sea sick | 0:11:30 | 0:11:33 | |
and so Robert decided that the thing to do | 0:11:33 | 0:11:36 | |
was to build this temporary barracks which in itself was | 0:11:36 | 0:11:40 | |
a bit of an epic performance because it had to be attached | 0:11:40 | 0:11:43 | |
to the rock, and then built up, | 0:11:43 | 0:11:46 | |
and you could only do this between tides. | 0:11:46 | 0:11:49 | |
The technology here is really... | 0:11:49 | 0:11:53 | |
I would say almost Medieval. | 0:11:53 | 0:11:55 | |
We have no steam machinery. | 0:11:55 | 0:11:58 | |
We have really muscle power and graft and determination. | 0:11:58 | 0:12:03 | |
For four summers Robert drove his men up to 16 hours a day, | 0:12:07 | 0:12:12 | |
seven days a week. | 0:12:12 | 0:12:14 | |
Stones of up to a ton were precisely carved | 0:12:14 | 0:12:17 | |
with dovetail joints to interlock. | 0:12:17 | 0:12:20 | |
The design and craftsmanship has withstood two centuries of storms. | 0:12:20 | 0:12:25 | |
115 feet high, 42 feet in diameter at the base, | 0:12:28 | 0:12:33 | |
tapering to 15 feet at the top. | 0:12:33 | 0:12:36 | |
The wonder of the age. | 0:12:36 | 0:12:39 | |
Bella Bathurst has written | 0:12:44 | 0:12:45 | |
a best-selling book about the Lighthouse Stevensons, | 0:12:45 | 0:12:47 | |
but this is her first visit to the Bell. | 0:12:47 | 0:12:51 | |
It's kind of like I imagined it was going to be, | 0:12:51 | 0:12:55 | |
but, um...inevitably | 0:12:55 | 0:12:59 | |
that much, I suppose what it conveys is how big the reef is | 0:12:59 | 0:13:04 | |
and how widely it extends. | 0:13:04 | 0:13:10 | |
You've got this enormous great lump of rock | 0:13:10 | 0:13:12 | |
in the middle of a hugely busy passage for navigation. | 0:13:12 | 0:13:20 | |
It's also interesting looking out at the... | 0:13:20 | 0:13:22 | |
..faces of the seals, | 0:13:24 | 0:13:26 | |
just beyond the rocks, and remembering that old thing | 0:13:26 | 0:13:29 | |
about seals always being considered | 0:13:29 | 0:13:34 | |
to be the souls of shipwrecked sailors. | 0:13:34 | 0:13:38 | |
So I don't know. It's kind of eerie, but kind of amazing. | 0:13:38 | 0:13:41 | |
Robert definitely feared for the men | 0:13:47 | 0:13:50 | |
and for the state of the works, but he really relished being out, | 0:13:50 | 0:13:55 | |
with the men, | 0:13:55 | 0:13:58 | |
working and contributing to this extraordinary endeavour. | 0:13:58 | 0:14:03 | |
He felt an enormous sense of responsibility, but I think he also | 0:14:03 | 0:14:06 | |
felt a great sense of exhilaration. | 0:14:06 | 0:14:09 | |
Well, we're up in the lantern room of the Bell Rock Lighthouse, | 0:14:22 | 0:14:28 | |
which is a pretty amazing place to be | 0:14:28 | 0:14:33 | |
given that this was what the whole palaver was about - | 0:14:33 | 0:14:37 | |
one solitary light bulb. | 0:14:37 | 0:14:40 | |
The Bell Rock Lighthouse | 0:14:40 | 0:14:43 | |
was praised as one of the wonders of the age. | 0:14:43 | 0:14:47 | |
The ambitious Robert revelled in the fame. | 0:14:47 | 0:14:50 | |
He hired Turner, the greatest landscape artist of the age, | 0:14:50 | 0:14:54 | |
to paint it, | 0:14:54 | 0:14:56 | |
and published this lavish book about its construction. | 0:14:56 | 0:15:00 | |
The fact that he had managed to light an impossible rock | 0:15:00 | 0:15:05 | |
and thereby to save countless lives was extraordinary. | 0:15:05 | 0:15:13 | |
It was proof that man could tame nature, | 0:15:14 | 0:15:18 | |
which was a very fashionable idea at the time. | 0:15:18 | 0:15:20 | |
It was proof that the Scots were better than the English. | 0:15:20 | 0:15:24 | |
It was proof that | 0:15:24 | 0:15:28 | |
Scotland led the world in marine engineering, | 0:15:28 | 0:15:31 | |
and it was proof that hubris actually could carry stuff off. | 0:15:31 | 0:15:36 | |
I mean if you said, "I want to build a lighthouse | 0:15:36 | 0:15:39 | |
"in the middle of the North Sea | 0:15:39 | 0:15:42 | |
"on an impossible reef which is covered at high tide", | 0:15:42 | 0:15:46 | |
it was possible to do it, which was an extraordinary achievement. | 0:15:46 | 0:15:50 | |
But what of the project's chief engineer, John Rennie? | 0:15:52 | 0:15:57 | |
Professor Roland Paxton feels that Rennie's role | 0:15:57 | 0:16:00 | |
was deliberately underplayed by Robert. | 0:16:00 | 0:16:02 | |
It was John Rennie that insisted | 0:16:04 | 0:16:06 | |
that the tower should be broadly based | 0:16:06 | 0:16:10 | |
and that the bottom should have a curvature, a very pronounced | 0:16:10 | 0:16:13 | |
curvature, and he also insisted on the dovetailing. | 0:16:13 | 0:16:18 | |
So it's due to Rennie that the actual structure | 0:16:18 | 0:16:21 | |
was structurally successful. | 0:16:21 | 0:16:24 | |
Professor Paxton discovered that Robert's book | 0:16:24 | 0:16:27 | |
about the Bell Rock Lighthouse omitted an important document. | 0:16:27 | 0:16:32 | |
At the back in this appendix there's a list of the reports | 0:16:32 | 0:16:36 | |
given by Rennie, | 0:16:36 | 0:16:39 | |
except that I noticed that there was no report for the year 1809. | 0:16:39 | 0:16:48 | |
And so I went into the National Library of Scotland where they | 0:16:48 | 0:16:52 | |
have the Rennie papers and the Stevenson papers side by side | 0:16:52 | 0:16:56 | |
and I transcribed this missing report of 1809, | 0:16:56 | 0:17:01 | |
which shows Rennie at the rock acting as a chief engineer. | 0:17:01 | 0:17:08 | |
But having said all this, there's little doubt | 0:17:08 | 0:17:10 | |
in my mind that most of the credit really is due to Robert Stevenson | 0:17:10 | 0:17:14 | |
and his direction of a very, very difficult civil engineering task. | 0:17:14 | 0:17:21 | |
I think he felt very strongly that this was going to be the thing | 0:17:21 | 0:17:27 | |
that would absolutely put his stamp on engineering and in order | 0:17:27 | 0:17:32 | |
for him to be able to put that stamp on the rock, he needed to, | 0:17:32 | 0:17:38 | |
if not get rid of Rennie then make himself indispensable. | 0:17:38 | 0:17:45 | |
And in doing so, managed to | 0:17:47 | 0:17:49 | |
kind of either gently or not gently elbow out Rennie. | 0:17:49 | 0:17:53 | |
The fact that Robert ended up | 0:17:53 | 0:17:59 | |
de facto chief engineer | 0:17:59 | 0:18:02 | |
has a lot to say about Robert's character and the way he worked. | 0:18:02 | 0:18:08 | |
A driven man, Robert was responsible for building 23 new lighthouses. | 0:18:10 | 0:18:16 | |
The technology that Robert brought to these beacons and the duties of | 0:18:16 | 0:18:20 | |
the men who tended them hardly changed in 150 years. | 0:18:20 | 0:18:25 | |
Now that's me just finished opening the curtains. | 0:18:27 | 0:18:31 | |
That's the first thing a lightkeeper does | 0:18:31 | 0:18:33 | |
when he comes up here to go on watch. | 0:18:33 | 0:18:35 | |
The curtains, of course are very important. | 0:18:35 | 0:18:38 | |
They are there to prevent fire. | 0:18:38 | 0:18:41 | |
The lens magnifies light going out, | 0:18:41 | 0:18:43 | |
also magnifies the sun rays coming in. | 0:18:43 | 0:18:46 | |
That can cause fire. | 0:18:46 | 0:18:48 | |
Now this lens is actually made up of a central, focal plane | 0:18:48 | 0:18:52 | |
surrounded by prisms, and those prisms refract light | 0:18:52 | 0:18:58 | |
in parallel to the centre lens. | 0:18:58 | 0:19:00 | |
This produces a beam of light | 0:19:00 | 0:19:03 | |
two metres in diameter, which is a light that is visible at 28 miles. | 0:19:03 | 0:19:11 | |
The hyper radio was the largest lens used in lighthouses. | 0:19:11 | 0:19:15 | |
This lens weighs approximately 3½ tons | 0:19:24 | 0:19:28 | |
and it revolves, driven by a clockwork machine. | 0:19:28 | 0:19:32 | |
The clockwork machine keeps this revolving for half an hour. | 0:19:32 | 0:19:36 | |
Now, the flash effect | 0:19:36 | 0:19:38 | |
is when this lens passes between you and the source of light. | 0:19:39 | 0:19:44 | |
That is when this lighthouse appears to flash. | 0:19:44 | 0:19:48 | |
It flashes one flash every 15 seconds. | 0:19:49 | 0:19:52 | |
Again, that is controlled by the clockwork machine. | 0:19:52 | 0:19:56 | |
Now, this is the clockwork machine that drives the lighthouse. | 0:19:57 | 0:20:02 | |
It's powered by a big weight descending the tower. | 0:20:02 | 0:20:06 | |
Now, that weight on its descent from the top to the | 0:20:06 | 0:20:09 | |
bottom keeps it going for 30 minutes. | 0:20:09 | 0:20:11 | |
So every half hour this has to be wound up. | 0:20:11 | 0:20:15 | |
Now, like every good grandfather clock, wound up with a big handle... | 0:20:17 | 0:20:21 | |
and it takes about 93 turns | 0:20:25 | 0:20:26 | |
of this handle to bring the weight back up again. | 0:20:26 | 0:20:29 | |
That gives you another half hour's run. | 0:20:29 | 0:20:32 | |
We're right at the top of the lighthouse here, | 0:20:39 | 0:20:42 | |
up in the lens gallery. | 0:20:42 | 0:20:44 | |
When the lightkeeper came up here to put in the light, he had to fill | 0:20:44 | 0:20:48 | |
this little heater with methylated spirits. | 0:20:48 | 0:20:52 | |
That was then lit and that was put under | 0:20:52 | 0:20:56 | |
the vaporiser, and that was left to heat the vaporiser. | 0:20:56 | 0:21:01 | |
Now, this took about ten minutes, to get this thing warmed up. | 0:21:01 | 0:21:04 | |
So once that was warmed up | 0:21:04 | 0:21:07 | |
you could then turn your pressure onto your lamp, paraffin would | 0:21:07 | 0:21:12 | |
come up through here, be vaporised, and then you could take a light from | 0:21:12 | 0:21:16 | |
there and pass it up onto the mantle, and this would light the lamp. | 0:21:16 | 0:21:21 | |
You had the machinery down there every half hour to wind. | 0:21:21 | 0:21:25 | |
You had this thing to pump up every 20 minutes or so | 0:21:25 | 0:21:28 | |
to keep the pressure up. | 0:21:28 | 0:21:29 | |
You had weather reporting to go down and do every three hours, | 0:21:29 | 0:21:33 | |
a quick dash down and collect the information, | 0:21:33 | 0:21:36 | |
and then send that away to Bracknell. | 0:21:36 | 0:21:40 | |
Keeping an eye on the weather, on shipping, | 0:21:40 | 0:21:43 | |
so the four hours really pass quite quickly. | 0:21:43 | 0:21:45 | |
Yes, you could be up and down quite a lot. | 0:21:45 | 0:21:48 | |
There wasn't many lightkeepers went to step aerobics. | 0:21:49 | 0:21:52 | |
We had plenty exercise. | 0:21:52 | 0:21:54 | |
Robert Stevenson not only demanded | 0:21:56 | 0:21:58 | |
efficiency from his keepers, he wanted their souls too. | 0:21:58 | 0:22:03 | |
Deeply religious, | 0:22:03 | 0:22:04 | |
he demanded that principal keepers conduct Sunday services. | 0:22:04 | 0:22:09 | |
This is Robert Stevenson's Bible. | 0:22:09 | 0:22:12 | |
It is the most beautiful book, and in the front he's written | 0:22:12 | 0:22:17 | |
a memoranda, which includes items with a cross | 0:22:17 | 0:22:22 | |
being specifically designed for lighthouse use, | 0:22:22 | 0:22:24 | |
and he did conduct services | 0:22:24 | 0:22:26 | |
in lighthouses and for the lighthouse builders, using this Bible. | 0:22:26 | 0:22:30 | |
This is the prayer for those employed | 0:22:30 | 0:22:33 | |
at the Lighthouse Service of Scotland. | 0:22:33 | 0:22:35 | |
This is the Northern Lighthouse Board's prayer. | 0:22:35 | 0:22:37 | |
It was Robert Stevenson who really put his stamp on the service, | 0:22:37 | 0:22:41 | |
and since he was effectively designing both | 0:22:41 | 0:22:44 | |
an engineering discipline and the service itself from scratch, | 0:22:44 | 0:22:50 | |
he could model it in whichever way he chose. | 0:22:50 | 0:22:53 | |
And the way he chose to go was to be very | 0:22:53 | 0:22:58 | |
militaristic about it - | 0:22:58 | 0:23:01 | |
lots of ritual, lots of badges, lots of medals, lots of singing, | 0:23:01 | 0:23:05 | |
lots of hyms, lots of bells and whistles. | 0:23:05 | 0:23:12 | |
And that tradition carried | 0:23:12 | 0:23:16 | |
right the way through the service, down pretty much almost until today. | 0:23:16 | 0:23:21 | |
To maintain discipline, Robert established annual | 0:23:23 | 0:23:25 | |
voyages of inspections of lighthouses, and surprises visits. | 0:23:25 | 0:23:29 | |
A dusty lamp or even dirty dishes meant trouble for the keepers. | 0:23:29 | 0:23:34 | |
Although Robert was a hard taskmaster, | 0:23:38 | 0:23:40 | |
lighthouse keeping developed a reputation as a respectable, | 0:23:40 | 0:23:45 | |
desirable profession, with jobs being handed down the generations. | 0:23:45 | 0:23:49 | |
Hector Lamont, his father, maternal grandfather and two of his brothers | 0:23:51 | 0:23:55 | |
were all keepers. | 0:23:55 | 0:23:58 | |
My family's connection with the lighthouse board started and ended | 0:24:00 | 0:24:02 | |
here at the Mull of Kintyre. | 0:24:02 | 0:24:04 | |
Started with grandfather, Murdoch Sutherland, | 0:24:06 | 0:24:08 | |
a stonemason from Rosemarkie. | 0:24:08 | 0:24:12 | |
He was appointed here in 1904 and he did his service right up to 1934. | 0:24:12 | 0:24:20 | |
And my own connection ended here | 0:24:20 | 0:24:23 | |
in 2006. | 0:24:23 | 0:24:26 | |
So between all the family | 0:24:26 | 0:24:29 | |
we did 171 years service for the lighthouse board. | 0:24:29 | 0:24:34 | |
Like his keepers, Robert Stevenson too had sons who followed him | 0:24:34 | 0:24:39 | |
into the lighthouse business. | 0:24:39 | 0:24:41 | |
As well as fathering sons, he fathered a dynasty. | 0:24:41 | 0:24:46 | |
I was the granddaughter of Charles Stevenson | 0:24:47 | 0:24:51 | |
and I was the great-great granddaughter of Robert. | 0:24:51 | 0:24:54 | |
There's never been anybody quite like Robert. | 0:24:54 | 0:24:57 | |
He used to get up at five o'clock | 0:24:57 | 0:24:58 | |
in the morning and start shaving, and when he still had all the soap on his | 0:24:58 | 0:25:02 | |
face, he would go round to each boy and tug him awake and poor chap had | 0:25:02 | 0:25:06 | |
to get up at five o'clock in the morning, and ask him, | 0:25:06 | 0:25:11 | |
Robert asked what the lad he thought he was to do, time to get out of bed, | 0:25:11 | 0:25:15 | |
and he kicks him out of bed | 0:25:15 | 0:25:17 | |
and asked him to go out, get his breakfast | 0:25:17 | 0:25:20 | |
and get started on a day's work. | 0:25:20 | 0:25:22 | |
He was... | 0:25:22 | 0:25:24 | |
not an easy father to like, I guess. | 0:25:24 | 0:25:30 | |
Or that's the way he comes across. | 0:25:30 | 0:25:31 | |
I think he | 0:25:31 | 0:25:34 | |
was, as an engineer, | 0:25:34 | 0:25:37 | |
he was a great visionary and a great pioneer. | 0:25:37 | 0:25:41 | |
In family life he was much much more of a traditionalist. | 0:25:41 | 0:25:45 | |
He came from poverty and he was | 0:25:45 | 0:25:48 | |
frightened of that for the rest of his days. | 0:25:48 | 0:25:51 | |
So behind all of his exaltations to his children and his insistence that | 0:25:51 | 0:25:56 | |
they become engineers | 0:25:56 | 0:26:00 | |
was the sense that if his children didn't get themselves | 0:26:00 | 0:26:04 | |
a sensible profession, by which he meant engineering or engineering, | 0:26:04 | 0:26:09 | |
then they would be condemned to the same sort of future | 0:26:10 | 0:26:18 | |
that he had come from originally. | 0:26:18 | 0:26:20 | |
Alan Stevenson, oldest son of the man who'd braved the elements | 0:26:22 | 0:26:25 | |
to build the Bell Rock light, was frail and artistic, | 0:26:25 | 0:26:30 | |
but became an engineer to please his father. | 0:26:30 | 0:26:34 | |
It's fairly clear, I think, that Robert | 0:26:34 | 0:26:38 | |
put such pressure on him | 0:26:38 | 0:26:41 | |
that only a very, very strong character who was prepared | 0:26:41 | 0:26:46 | |
to break away from the whole family would have been able to resist it. | 0:26:46 | 0:26:52 | |
And Alan didn't want to do that, couldn't do that. | 0:26:52 | 0:26:56 | |
From the ages of 12 or 13, | 0:26:56 | 0:26:59 | |
the Stevenson boys began their apprenticeships, sailing with | 0:26:59 | 0:27:03 | |
their father every summer on his annual inspection of lighthouses. | 0:27:03 | 0:27:07 | |
The name of the ship is the Pharos, | 0:27:09 | 0:27:12 | |
and this is the tenth ship | 0:27:12 | 0:27:14 | |
the Northern Lighthouse Board have had with the name Pharos. | 0:27:14 | 0:27:18 | |
Today we've got a couple of jobs to do. | 0:27:18 | 0:27:21 | |
The first job we're doing this morning is servicing | 0:27:21 | 0:27:24 | |
one of the navigation buoys in the Sound of Mull - | 0:27:24 | 0:27:27 | |
Avon Rock buoy. | 0:27:27 | 0:27:28 | |
What we do every year is we bring them on, | 0:27:28 | 0:27:31 | |
bring the buoys on board and check the chain for wear and tear, | 0:27:31 | 0:27:34 | |
and normally it varies from a mil to two mil, | 0:27:34 | 0:27:37 | |
they'll wear down each year. | 0:27:37 | 0:27:39 | |
If need be we'll actually change the chain or put a piece in | 0:27:39 | 0:27:43 | |
and basically, like I said, once a year we'll just service them. | 0:27:43 | 0:27:48 | |
By the age of 17, Alan was getting practical experience. | 0:27:50 | 0:27:54 | |
He may have become an engineer under pressure, | 0:27:54 | 0:27:58 | |
but he became a brilliant one. | 0:27:58 | 0:28:00 | |
Alan Stevenson built what is probably the most beautiful | 0:28:07 | 0:28:10 | |
and iconic lighthouse in the world. | 0:28:10 | 0:28:12 | |
Ian Duff served as a keeper here. | 0:28:14 | 0:28:16 | |
It's described as the noblest of all deep sea lights | 0:28:16 | 0:28:19 | |
by Robert Louis Stevenson himself, so I was delighted that I'd been able | 0:28:19 | 0:28:23 | |
to say lighthouses is my hobby | 0:28:23 | 0:28:25 | |
and I've been at one of the most famous Scottish lighthouses there is. | 0:28:25 | 0:28:28 | |
Alan's masterpiece was | 0:28:28 | 0:28:31 | |
Skerryvore, 14 miles off Tiree. | 0:28:31 | 0:28:36 | |
Skerryvore, like the Bell Rock reef, was notorious. | 0:28:36 | 0:28:42 | |
I think in total the reef stretches | 0:28:42 | 0:28:44 | |
for about ten miles, most of it underwater. | 0:28:44 | 0:28:48 | |
Very difficult to work, a very tough environment, | 0:28:48 | 0:28:53 | |
and exposed to the full fetch of the Atlantic, | 0:28:53 | 0:28:55 | |
so you've got these storms | 0:28:55 | 0:28:57 | |
rolling over from Newfoundland, | 0:28:57 | 0:29:00 | |
really gathering some strength. | 0:29:00 | 0:29:02 | |
The treacherous reef of Skerryvore. | 0:29:03 | 0:29:06 | |
To the west, a storm-scoured ocean. | 0:29:06 | 0:29:10 | |
To the north, the island of Tiree. | 0:29:10 | 0:29:14 | |
When Alan came here in the 1830s, he found that crofts on one side | 0:29:14 | 0:29:18 | |
of the island paid higher rents because they benefited | 0:29:18 | 0:29:23 | |
from timber and goods washed on the shore. | 0:29:23 | 0:29:25 | |
"This reef has long been the terror of the mariner, but the erection | 0:29:27 | 0:29:30 | |
"of a lighthouse upon Skerryvore would at once change its character." | 0:29:30 | 0:29:34 | |
Alan established a base camp at Hynish on Tiree. | 0:29:38 | 0:29:42 | |
A harbour had to be built there. | 0:29:42 | 0:29:44 | |
Like his father had done at the Bell Rock, | 0:29:44 | 0:29:47 | |
Alan built a temporary barracks so that his men could live | 0:29:47 | 0:29:50 | |
and work on the reef. | 0:29:50 | 0:29:52 | |
Then work was abandoned for the winter. | 0:29:52 | 0:29:55 | |
In November, Alan got a letter from Tiree. | 0:29:55 | 0:29:59 | |
Dear Sir, I am extremely sorry to inform you that the barrack | 0:29:59 | 0:30:04 | |
erected on Skerryvore Rock has totally disappeared. | 0:30:04 | 0:30:09 | |
They spent an entire season building this thing, | 0:30:09 | 0:30:12 | |
only to see the whole thing completely swept away by one storm. | 0:30:12 | 0:30:16 | |
Some of the building blocks shipped out to the reef | 0:30:17 | 0:30:20 | |
weighed two and a half tons. | 0:30:20 | 0:30:22 | |
The risks for men in boats getting on to places like Skerryvore, | 0:30:23 | 0:30:28 | |
where you had changes with the weather, sea and getting tools | 0:30:28 | 0:30:33 | |
safely secured and getting them off - it was a marvel that there wasn't | 0:30:33 | 0:30:38 | |
more men lost in the building of these places. | 0:30:38 | 0:30:42 | |
4,300 tons of granite was eventually landed on the reef. | 0:30:42 | 0:30:48 | |
The tower Alan and his men built with it is 156 feet high. | 0:30:48 | 0:30:53 | |
The walls at the base are nine and a half feet thick. | 0:30:53 | 0:30:57 | |
It's not quite the same design as the Bell Rock. | 0:30:59 | 0:31:01 | |
It's much more graceful at the bottom, and there's not so much | 0:31:01 | 0:31:05 | |
dove-tailing and mortising used on Skerryvore because Alan Stevenson | 0:31:05 | 0:31:09 | |
argued the sheer weight of his structure would keep it together, | 0:31:09 | 0:31:13 | |
and I think he's been proved right because one of the keepers I was | 0:31:13 | 0:31:17 | |
with at Skerryvore who'd also been at the Bell Rock, | 0:31:17 | 0:31:19 | |
said that the Bell Rock juddered when the sea hit it, | 0:31:19 | 0:31:22 | |
but Skerryvore didn't judder. | 0:31:22 | 0:31:24 | |
When Alan died in 1865, he was buried in Edinburgh. | 0:31:28 | 0:31:34 | |
But his true monument lies 11 miles south-west of Tiree. | 0:31:34 | 0:31:37 | |
1853. | 0:31:45 | 0:31:46 | |
The Crimean War. | 0:31:46 | 0:31:48 | |
Britain was locked in conflict with the Russian Empire. | 0:31:49 | 0:31:53 | |
The Royal Navy blockaded Archangel and Murmansk | 0:31:53 | 0:31:56 | |
and demanded that a beacon be built on Muckle Flugga | 0:31:56 | 0:31:59 | |
to help their warships navigate beyond the Shetland Isles. | 0:31:59 | 0:32:04 | |
The storm-lashed rock is Britain's most northerly isle. | 0:32:04 | 0:32:08 | |
Next stop, the Arctic Circle. | 0:32:08 | 0:32:11 | |
It's a triangle. It's like a kind of minature Matterhorn, really, | 0:32:12 | 0:32:16 | |
so you're dealing with something which has very glassy sides, | 0:32:16 | 0:32:23 | |
and what the workmen had to do was to haul every scrap of equipment, | 0:32:23 | 0:32:30 | |
materials and tools up on their backs, up ropes. | 0:32:30 | 0:32:35 | |
The job fell to David, the second of Robert Stevenson's engineering sons. | 0:32:36 | 0:32:42 | |
Steps were carved in the steep flank of Muckle Flugga. | 0:32:42 | 0:32:45 | |
Foundations for the tower were sunk ten feet into the living rock. | 0:32:45 | 0:32:51 | |
The lighthouse David built was made of brick. | 0:32:51 | 0:32:56 | |
It was, he admitted... | 0:32:56 | 0:32:58 | |
An untried experiment in marine engineering. | 0:32:58 | 0:33:03 | |
Muckle Flugga was David's Skerryvore. | 0:33:03 | 0:33:07 | |
In my mind it looked like the end of the world, | 0:33:07 | 0:33:10 | |
like Tierra del Fuego at the end of South America or something like that. | 0:33:10 | 0:33:13 | |
It remains in my mind to this day, | 0:33:13 | 0:33:15 | |
turning that corner and seeing Muckle Flugga at the top of the rock. | 0:33:15 | 0:33:18 | |
Incredible place. | 0:33:18 | 0:33:20 | |
We had the sea coming right over the top of the station, | 0:33:20 | 0:33:25 | |
and we're sitting on the top of a cliff, | 0:33:25 | 0:33:27 | |
200 feet up with this big northerly swells coming in, | 0:33:27 | 0:33:31 | |
on spring tides with the sea pounding onto the station. | 0:33:31 | 0:33:35 | |
It was a weird sensation. | 0:33:35 | 0:33:37 | |
The year after David Stevenson and his men left Muckle Flugga, | 0:33:38 | 0:33:42 | |
a Royal Commission into the state of Britain's lighthouses noted that | 0:33:42 | 0:33:46 | |
those of England and Ireland were... | 0:33:46 | 0:33:49 | |
Much inferior to those of Scotland, which were under the supervision | 0:33:49 | 0:33:53 | |
of the Stevensons. | 0:33:53 | 0:33:54 | |
This is the remote Dhu Heartach lighthouse, west of Mull. | 0:34:08 | 0:34:12 | |
It's one of 29 lighthouses built by David and his brother Thomas, | 0:34:15 | 0:34:20 | |
the youngest of Robert Stevenson's sons. | 0:34:20 | 0:34:23 | |
Among them, Butt of Lewis. | 0:34:23 | 0:34:26 | |
Monach. | 0:34:28 | 0:34:30 | |
Ruvaal. | 0:34:31 | 0:34:33 | |
Lochindaal. | 0:34:34 | 0:34:37 | |
Bressay. | 0:34:37 | 0:34:39 | |
Turnberry. | 0:34:41 | 0:34:42 | |
And Fidra. | 0:34:44 | 0:34:45 | |
Thomas was the least likely lighthouse engineer. | 0:34:48 | 0:34:51 | |
He fancied being a writer or a publisher or a bookseller. | 0:34:51 | 0:34:55 | |
He was found with bits of card in his pockets containing | 0:34:58 | 0:35:04 | |
what Robert was appalled to discover | 0:35:04 | 0:35:08 | |
were scribblings, were bits of writing, and he was genuinely... | 0:35:08 | 0:35:14 | |
If he had discovered pieces of wreck, or laundered money | 0:35:14 | 0:35:18 | |
or pornography, it probably wouldn't have been as bad as literature. | 0:35:18 | 0:35:23 | |
But as it was, | 0:35:23 | 0:35:25 | |
Tom was absolutely in disgrace | 0:35:25 | 0:35:29 | |
and sent straight to become an engineer. | 0:35:29 | 0:35:34 | |
Robert warned his son... | 0:35:34 | 0:35:37 | |
If you want to live as a gentleman you must work as a man, | 0:35:37 | 0:35:40 | |
for there is no dining without a purse. | 0:35:40 | 0:35:43 | |
But like his brothers, Thomas was smart | 0:35:46 | 0:35:49 | |
and had a capacity for hard work. | 0:35:49 | 0:35:52 | |
He had a deep understanding of optics and oversaw | 0:35:52 | 0:35:55 | |
the installation of the lamp on Alan's masterpiece, Skerryvore. | 0:35:55 | 0:35:59 | |
While on Tiree, he developed a fascination with the sea. | 0:36:01 | 0:36:06 | |
Today he's best remembered as the father of Robert Louis Stevenson, | 0:36:06 | 0:36:11 | |
who wrote of Thomas... | 0:36:11 | 0:36:13 | |
He would pass hours on the beach, | 0:36:13 | 0:36:16 | |
brooding over the waves, counting them, noting their least deflection, | 0:36:16 | 0:36:21 | |
noting when they broke. | 0:36:21 | 0:36:23 | |
Thomas' greatest achievement was Dhu Heartach, | 0:36:26 | 0:36:29 | |
built on the Torran Reef, 12 miles west of the Ross of Mull. | 0:36:29 | 0:36:34 | |
Lying in an important shipping channel, it had claimed 30 ships | 0:36:34 | 0:36:38 | |
in just over half a century. | 0:36:38 | 0:36:40 | |
On the island of Earraid, off Mull, Thomas established a quarry | 0:36:43 | 0:36:48 | |
and workshops with a virtual village to support them. | 0:36:48 | 0:36:53 | |
Robert Louis visited in 1870. | 0:36:53 | 0:36:56 | |
There was now a pier of stone, | 0:36:56 | 0:36:58 | |
there were rows of sheds, railways, travelling cranes, | 0:36:58 | 0:37:03 | |
a street of cottages, an iron house for the resident engineer, | 0:37:03 | 0:37:07 | |
wooden bothies for the men, a stage where the courses of the tower | 0:37:07 | 0:37:11 | |
were put together experimentally, and, behind the settlement, | 0:37:11 | 0:37:14 | |
a great gash in the hillside where the granite was quarried. | 0:37:14 | 0:37:19 | |
The men actually working out on the reef | 0:37:21 | 0:37:23 | |
lived in a metal barracks bolted to the rock in case of storms. | 0:37:23 | 0:37:28 | |
Robert Louis described such a storm. | 0:37:28 | 0:37:32 | |
The men sat prisoned high up in their iron drum, | 0:37:32 | 0:37:35 | |
that then resounded with the lashing of the sprays. | 0:37:35 | 0:37:38 | |
Fear sat with them in their sea-beleaguered dwelling. | 0:37:38 | 0:37:42 | |
Robert Louis didn't follow his father into the business. | 0:37:52 | 0:37:55 | |
Thomas was heartbroken. | 0:37:55 | 0:37:58 | |
Robert wrote... | 0:37:58 | 0:37:59 | |
What a damned curse I am to my parents! | 0:37:59 | 0:38:03 | |
As my father said, "You have rendered my whole life a failure!" | 0:38:03 | 0:38:08 | |
It took him a hell of a long time to realise that he had a boy | 0:38:08 | 0:38:11 | |
of such enormous talent. | 0:38:11 | 0:38:14 | |
Thomas waited for ages to discover what his son really wanted, | 0:38:14 | 0:38:20 | |
and in the end, of course, that is what he did, thank goodness for us. | 0:38:20 | 0:38:24 | |
There's a few thousand people in the world who know who Robert Stevenson is, | 0:38:24 | 0:38:28 | |
but there's millions who know who Robert Louis Stevenson is. | 0:38:28 | 0:38:32 | |
He was much the brightest member of the family. | 0:38:33 | 0:38:36 | |
Although he never became a lighthouse engineer, Robert Louis | 0:38:37 | 0:38:41 | |
got something out of the journeys he made with his father. | 0:38:41 | 0:38:45 | |
Erraid, from where Thomas built Dhu Heartach, | 0:38:45 | 0:38:47 | |
is the tidal island on which David Balfour is shipwrecked in Kidnapped. | 0:38:47 | 0:38:52 | |
I thought in my heart I had never seen a place so desert and desolate, | 0:38:52 | 0:38:57 | |
but it was dry land. | 0:38:57 | 0:39:00 | |
Towards the end of his life, Robert Louis wrote to a friend... | 0:39:00 | 0:39:05 | |
I ought to have been able to build lighthouses | 0:39:05 | 0:39:07 | |
and write David Balfours too. | 0:39:07 | 0:39:09 | |
If you feel that you've gone off to a nice, relatively comfortable life | 0:39:11 | 0:39:17 | |
as a children's writer, or a writer of children's stories, | 0:39:17 | 0:39:22 | |
while the rest of your family are lifesavers, | 0:39:22 | 0:39:26 | |
the equivalent of firemen or paramedics today, then you probably | 0:39:26 | 0:39:33 | |
would feel a bit ambivalent. | 0:39:33 | 0:39:35 | |
Under the Stevensons, Scotland was surrounding itself | 0:39:36 | 0:39:39 | |
with a necklace of lights that were to save countless lives. | 0:39:39 | 0:39:43 | |
But each light had to be manned by keepers who were trained, | 0:39:44 | 0:39:48 | |
precise and vigilant. | 0:39:48 | 0:39:50 | |
The men recruited as keepers were expected to be... | 0:39:52 | 0:39:56 | |
Sober and industrious, | 0:39:56 | 0:39:58 | |
cleanly in their persons and linens and orderly in their families. | 0:39:58 | 0:40:03 | |
Robert Louis Stevenson reported that the keepers... | 0:40:04 | 0:40:07 | |
Usually pass their time by the pleasant human expedient of | 0:40:07 | 0:40:11 | |
quarrelling and sometimes, | 0:40:11 | 0:40:13 | |
I'm assured, not one of the three is on speaking terms with the other. | 0:40:13 | 0:40:17 | |
You had to get on with your fellow man. | 0:40:20 | 0:40:22 | |
Now, I'm not saying there wasn't long silences. | 0:40:22 | 0:40:26 | |
We had one lad there who smoked about 60 cigarettes a day | 0:40:26 | 0:40:29 | |
and for a non-smoker that was, you know, erm.... | 0:40:29 | 0:40:35 | |
not very pleasant. | 0:40:35 | 0:40:37 | |
One instance... | 0:40:37 | 0:40:38 | |
just comes to mind, | 0:40:38 | 0:40:41 | |
the chap, he hated mashed potatoes | 0:40:41 | 0:40:45 | |
and when you were cook, of course, you had to separate the potatoes out | 0:40:45 | 0:40:50 | |
specially for him and mash the rest and then the first thing he did | 0:40:50 | 0:40:54 | |
when he got his plate was pick up his fork | 0:40:54 | 0:40:56 | |
and mash his potatoes and you thought, "Now, ooh, wait a minute". | 0:40:56 | 0:41:00 | |
Different lighthouses | 0:41:02 | 0:41:03 | |
posed different challenges for wives and families, as well as keepers. | 0:41:03 | 0:41:08 | |
My first experience of a rock lighthouse was the island of Fidra | 0:41:08 | 0:41:12 | |
in the Firth of Forth and I wasn't a very happy bunny this day | 0:41:12 | 0:41:17 | |
because I was going out for Christmas and New Year. | 0:41:17 | 0:41:20 | |
I had a two and a half year old son and this was going to be me away | 0:41:20 | 0:41:27 | |
for Christmas and New Year for the first time. | 0:41:27 | 0:41:29 | |
In my case, it was a month on and a month off. | 0:41:29 | 0:41:32 | |
In my father's day, | 0:41:32 | 0:41:34 | |
it was two months on and one month off, | 0:41:34 | 0:41:38 | |
so... | 0:41:38 | 0:41:39 | |
the women had a job bringing up the children, right enough. | 0:41:39 | 0:41:43 | |
When Hector was on rock stations, I didn't enjoy it. | 0:41:43 | 0:41:46 | |
He was away from home for a month at a time. | 0:41:46 | 0:41:50 | |
I was left to cope with the children | 0:41:50 | 0:41:53 | |
and it was quite hard-going if they were ill, | 0:41:53 | 0:41:55 | |
or if I was feeling off-colour, I had no-one to turn to. | 0:41:55 | 0:41:59 | |
It was a bit of a wrench for them, you know, moving, more so for them, | 0:41:59 | 0:42:03 | |
I would say, than for us. | 0:42:03 | 0:42:06 | |
You know, they had to make friends at school | 0:42:06 | 0:42:10 | |
and then they had to go away and leave their friends. | 0:42:10 | 0:42:13 | |
A lot of keepers | 0:42:13 | 0:42:16 | |
would be quite happy in the job, but then when they got a transfer, | 0:42:16 | 0:42:21 | |
the wife would have one look at the place and say "well, not for me". | 0:42:21 | 0:42:25 | |
Now, he had a choice there, he'd have to go or leave the wife, | 0:42:25 | 0:42:30 | |
so normally the keeper followed the wife and left the service. | 0:42:30 | 0:42:33 | |
My wife said, if I was away at the rock and I came back after a month, | 0:42:33 | 0:42:36 | |
that was like a new honeymoon, you know, and then I think | 0:42:36 | 0:42:40 | |
when you lived together, you were living in a remote place | 0:42:40 | 0:42:43 | |
and you were constantly with one another, so you didn't constantly | 0:42:43 | 0:42:47 | |
succumb to what other people in the town might have called "temptations". | 0:42:47 | 0:42:52 | |
A fella marrying a city girl | 0:42:52 | 0:42:55 | |
and then having this separation, | 0:42:55 | 0:42:58 | |
I've seen it often, | 0:42:58 | 0:43:00 | |
fairly testing sometimes, even a break-up, you know. | 0:43:00 | 0:43:04 | |
Most of my life in the lighthouse service, it was a happy time, | 0:43:04 | 0:43:07 | |
until things went wrong with my marriage and we split up. | 0:43:07 | 0:43:13 | |
It happened to some. I think maybe the long periods of being away, | 0:43:13 | 0:43:17 | |
you know, on a regular basis, maybe created windows | 0:43:17 | 0:43:20 | |
of opportunity where, you know, there wouldn't have been otherwise. | 0:43:20 | 0:43:25 | |
Robert Louis's cousins, David Alan and Charles, | 0:43:26 | 0:43:30 | |
sons of David Stevenson, who'd built Muckle Flugga, | 0:43:30 | 0:43:33 | |
were the fourth generation | 0:43:33 | 0:43:35 | |
of this remarkable dynasty and the third to bear the name, Stevenson. | 0:43:35 | 0:43:40 | |
It is a name that was now world renowned. | 0:43:40 | 0:43:43 | |
One of the great things about this lighthouse technology, | 0:43:43 | 0:43:47 | |
this package if you like, is that it did export quite well. | 0:43:47 | 0:43:50 | |
A number of people were recruited by advertisements and went out | 0:43:50 | 0:43:55 | |
to set up a lighthouse service in Japan. | 0:43:55 | 0:43:59 | |
The Northern Lighthouse Board was also involved in various points of | 0:43:59 | 0:44:02 | |
the empire like Aden, like India, | 0:44:02 | 0:44:06 | |
Burma, I think to some extent, but also, perhaps more unexpectedly, | 0:44:06 | 0:44:11 | |
Chile. | 0:44:11 | 0:44:13 | |
The Bass Rock, one of 24 Scottish lighthouses | 0:44:13 | 0:44:18 | |
built by David Alan and Charles Stevenson. | 0:44:18 | 0:44:21 | |
The boom years of lighthouse engineering | 0:44:21 | 0:44:23 | |
may have been in the past, | 0:44:23 | 0:44:25 | |
but the pair still built classics like Sule Skerry, | 0:44:25 | 0:44:29 | |
Britain's most remote lighthouse, 45 miles from the mainland. | 0:44:29 | 0:44:34 | |
They built the notorious Flannan Isle light, | 0:44:37 | 0:44:40 | |
where three keepers mysteriously disappeared in December 1900. | 0:44:40 | 0:44:45 | |
Three men alive on Flannan Isle, who thought of three men dead. | 0:44:48 | 0:44:55 | |
They designed and built fog horns | 0:44:55 | 0:44:58 | |
and vastly improved the power of lights. | 0:44:58 | 0:45:01 | |
In 1929, Charles and his son, D Alan Stevenson, | 0:45:04 | 0:45:07 | |
invented the Talking Beacon, | 0:45:07 | 0:45:11 | |
which allowed ships to take bearings | 0:45:11 | 0:45:13 | |
in thick fog from radio signals transmitted from lighthouses. | 0:45:13 | 0:45:17 | |
Charles was grandfather to Jean Leslie. | 0:45:17 | 0:45:22 | |
Because my father had been killed at the Battle of Jutland, | 0:45:22 | 0:45:25 | |
I had no father and as a grandfather, | 0:45:25 | 0:45:29 | |
he really did a great deal for my sister and myself, | 0:45:29 | 0:45:32 | |
he was always in our lives. | 0:45:32 | 0:45:35 | |
Charles was a very kindly man and he was a great inventor. | 0:45:35 | 0:45:38 | |
I don't remember a time when he wasn't inventing | 0:45:38 | 0:45:41 | |
and I was often with him when he was. | 0:45:41 | 0:45:43 | |
He quite often turned to me and asked me what I thought, | 0:45:43 | 0:45:46 | |
even though I was a child of only about 12. | 0:45:46 | 0:45:49 | |
He was very inventive. | 0:45:49 | 0:45:51 | |
He was the most inventive member of the family by a long way. | 0:45:51 | 0:45:54 | |
World War II was a severe test for the Stevenson lighthouses | 0:45:56 | 0:46:01 | |
and the profession of lighthouse keeping that the family had created. | 0:46:01 | 0:46:05 | |
The Northern Lighthouse Board had reasoned... | 0:46:07 | 0:46:10 | |
The risk of lighthouses being attacked is slight. | 0:46:10 | 0:46:14 | |
Keepers agreed. | 0:46:14 | 0:46:15 | |
The principal at Fair Isle South light wrote to his superiors... | 0:46:15 | 0:46:19 | |
I do not consider it necessary to take special precautions here, | 0:46:19 | 0:46:23 | |
owing to our position, not being near a town, naval base or aerodrome. | 0:46:23 | 0:46:28 | |
But these documents record 30 Nazi air attacks on Scottish lights. | 0:46:30 | 0:46:37 | |
This is a Luftwaffe aerial reconnaissance photograph of Fair Isle. | 0:46:37 | 0:46:41 | |
In March 1941, the island's northern light was attacked twice. | 0:46:41 | 0:46:46 | |
In December, it was the turn of the island's southern light. | 0:46:46 | 0:46:50 | |
My mother was looking out the window with me in her arms | 0:46:52 | 0:46:56 | |
and she was killed by machine gun fire. | 0:46:56 | 0:46:59 | |
And I was supposedly injured and so was the dog according to my father, | 0:46:59 | 0:47:03 | |
but the lighthouse itself wasn't hurt that day. | 0:47:03 | 0:47:08 | |
When I look at my mum and I think, well she was only 22, | 0:47:08 | 0:47:12 | |
which is hardly... She'd hardly lived, had she? | 0:47:12 | 0:47:15 | |
And there was a time I can remember I used to think | 0:47:15 | 0:47:19 | |
that it should have been me who died and my mother lived, | 0:47:19 | 0:47:22 | |
because I think my father would've liked a big family, | 0:47:22 | 0:47:25 | |
so I did go through a feeling of "it should have been me, not her". | 0:47:25 | 0:47:31 | |
Just a month after June's mother's death, | 0:47:31 | 0:47:34 | |
the south light was bombed again, killing a soldier | 0:47:34 | 0:47:38 | |
and the wife and ten year old daughter of the principal keeper. | 0:47:38 | 0:47:42 | |
Another victim of the war was the Monach light, west of North Uist. | 0:47:46 | 0:47:50 | |
Thought to be vulnerable to attack, | 0:47:50 | 0:47:52 | |
it was abandoned in 1942 and not re-lit after the war. | 0:47:52 | 0:47:57 | |
But in 1993, following the wreck of oil tanker, The Braer, off Shetland, | 0:47:59 | 0:48:04 | |
the NLB set up a new light on the Monach Isles. | 0:48:04 | 0:48:09 | |
Our new light wasn't sufficient for the job it was required to do | 0:48:09 | 0:48:13 | |
and we had two alternatives, one was to build up that light | 0:48:13 | 0:48:16 | |
to make it stronger, the other was to move back into the Stevenson Tower. | 0:48:16 | 0:48:21 | |
It was dry as a bone. | 0:48:22 | 0:48:24 | |
It was so beautifully built that I could actually touch | 0:48:24 | 0:48:27 | |
the dust on the window sills. | 0:48:27 | 0:48:29 | |
No damp at all in that building. | 0:48:29 | 0:48:32 | |
So we removed the old light equipment from the top of the tower, | 0:48:32 | 0:48:35 | |
put in brand new modern equipment and | 0:48:35 | 0:48:38 | |
we now have a functioning tower some 60 years after it was first deserted. | 0:48:38 | 0:48:43 | |
And I think it just goes to prove that the Stevensons knew it | 0:48:43 | 0:48:47 | |
right all along. | 0:48:47 | 0:48:48 | |
For all their genius, the Stevensons had no control over the elements. | 0:48:52 | 0:48:56 | |
Right, boys, lower away together now. | 0:48:56 | 0:48:59 | |
This film of 40 years ago shows fourth-generation keeper, | 0:48:59 | 0:49:04 | |
Angus Hutchison, reporting for duty on Sule Skerry. | 0:49:04 | 0:49:08 | |
Sule Skerry in winter time could be a bit of a trial. | 0:49:16 | 0:49:19 | |
You would be thinking that you were going home in the morrow | 0:49:22 | 0:49:25 | |
and the next day duly turned up | 0:49:25 | 0:49:29 | |
and you had a screaming gale from the west, | 0:49:29 | 0:49:32 | |
which meant that for that day, | 0:49:32 | 0:49:35 | |
and probably for a week afterwards, there was no relief. | 0:49:35 | 0:49:38 | |
That's fine. Hold on, Matthew. | 0:49:38 | 0:49:41 | |
You'll have to play her today, boys. | 0:49:46 | 0:49:48 | |
There was a situation existed in those days that you extended, | 0:49:51 | 0:49:57 | |
or tried to make a relief for the next five days | 0:49:57 | 0:50:01 | |
and if you couldn't make the relief within that time, it was abandoned | 0:50:01 | 0:50:05 | |
and you continued and finished the next three weeks on there | 0:50:05 | 0:50:10 | |
before they would try again for the relief, | 0:50:10 | 0:50:13 | |
so that meant that you were going to be a minimum of nine weeks | 0:50:13 | 0:50:17 | |
on the rock without getting ashore, so you used to try | 0:50:17 | 0:50:24 | |
and put up a prayer for a bonnie day. | 0:50:24 | 0:50:28 | |
But you had to be a very good living fellow before that was answered. | 0:50:30 | 0:50:34 | |
It was never really answered in my case, you know. | 0:50:34 | 0:50:38 | |
There was one year on Copinsay. | 0:50:38 | 0:50:40 | |
We were overdue by... | 0:50:40 | 0:50:43 | |
about four or five days at Christmas time, | 0:50:43 | 0:50:46 | |
so here we were, looking at tins of corned beef for Christmas dinner. | 0:50:46 | 0:50:50 | |
We had an old shotgun on the station | 0:50:50 | 0:50:54 | |
we went off looking for | 0:50:54 | 0:50:57 | |
something for our Christmas lunch and we managed to get a goose, | 0:50:57 | 0:51:01 | |
but it was rather greasy, but we made the best of it. | 0:51:01 | 0:51:05 | |
It was better than corned beef. | 0:51:05 | 0:51:08 | |
This is the Bass Rock, built by David Alan Stevenson, | 0:51:09 | 0:51:13 | |
grandson of the Bell Rock Lighthouse builder, Robert. | 0:51:13 | 0:51:16 | |
David A, as he was known, | 0:51:16 | 0:51:19 | |
retired as the Northern Lighthouse Board's chief engineer in 1938. | 0:51:19 | 0:51:24 | |
He was 83 and had served for over half a century. | 0:51:24 | 0:51:29 | |
This was the end of the Stevenson family's | 0:51:29 | 0:51:31 | |
130 year connection with the Northern Lighthouse Board, | 0:51:31 | 0:51:35 | |
although his nephew, D Alan, continued the family | 0:51:35 | 0:51:38 | |
tradition as engineer to the Clyde Lighthouse Trust until 1952. | 0:51:38 | 0:51:43 | |
Including Robert Stevenson's stepfather, Thomas Smith, | 0:51:46 | 0:51:49 | |
the family had served Scotland's lighthouses | 0:51:49 | 0:51:53 | |
for five generations and 166 years. | 0:51:53 | 0:51:56 | |
I think they were absolutely marvellous. | 0:51:59 | 0:52:04 | |
Those days, and mind you, it was sailing ships they were working with. | 0:52:04 | 0:52:10 | |
And all these rock lighthouses, they're built with | 0:52:10 | 0:52:13 | |
massive, big interlocking granite stones. | 0:52:13 | 0:52:17 | |
I mean, you could hardly see the joins | 0:52:17 | 0:52:20 | |
and there was no cement or anything. | 0:52:20 | 0:52:22 | |
They were absolutely marvellous. | 0:52:22 | 0:52:24 | |
At the beginning of the 1960s, | 0:52:27 | 0:52:29 | |
the Northern Lighthouse Board began to automate its lighthouses. | 0:52:29 | 0:52:32 | |
Technicians in Edinburgh's George Street, | 0:52:35 | 0:52:38 | |
not solitary keepers on storm-washed towers, now tend the lights. | 0:52:38 | 0:52:42 | |
There's now over 100 lighthouses monitored from here, | 0:52:44 | 0:52:47 | |
this is the monitor centre in our headquarters in Edinburgh. | 0:52:47 | 0:52:51 | |
24 hours manned a day, 365 days of the year, | 0:52:51 | 0:52:55 | |
keeping close control on the operation of our lights out there. | 0:52:55 | 0:53:00 | |
System battery one volts, 28.1. | 0:53:00 | 0:53:04 | |
Battery two, 27.3... | 0:53:04 | 0:53:07 | |
If one goes wrong then the first thing to do is the monitor centre | 0:53:07 | 0:53:10 | |
officer based here will try and restart the light or fix the error | 0:53:10 | 0:53:14 | |
from here in the monitor centre. | 0:53:14 | 0:53:16 | |
If that fails, he'll send out a message straight away | 0:53:16 | 0:53:19 | |
to the hydrographic office, and to the coastguard | 0:53:19 | 0:53:22 | |
so they can alert mariners in the area and we'll get technicians out | 0:53:22 | 0:53:26 | |
as soon as we can to fix the light. | 0:53:26 | 0:53:27 | |
What would the Stevensons have made of all this? | 0:53:31 | 0:53:35 | |
I think they would've been sad to see the stations empty, | 0:53:35 | 0:53:38 | |
but they would've approved of the move in automation | 0:53:38 | 0:53:41 | |
because they were very, very skilled, advanced engineers at their time | 0:53:41 | 0:53:45 | |
and they would've been skilled, advanced engineers today, as well. | 0:53:45 | 0:53:49 | |
I think what would've pleased them | 0:53:49 | 0:53:51 | |
would be that the structure they built | 0:53:51 | 0:53:53 | |
are still there, the structures are still there doing the job | 0:53:53 | 0:53:56 | |
they built them to do, but with modern equipment inside them. | 0:53:56 | 0:54:00 | |
Former principal keeper, Angus Hutchison, | 0:54:01 | 0:54:03 | |
is on a sentimental journey to Fair Isle. | 0:54:03 | 0:54:06 | |
Do you want to see me doing a nose-dive, boys? | 0:54:13 | 0:54:17 | |
I'm stiff. | 0:54:20 | 0:54:22 | |
-How many years is it since you were here last? -Eleven. | 0:54:22 | 0:54:25 | |
-Eleven? -That's a while indeed, yep. | 0:54:25 | 0:54:29 | |
Here, at Fair Isle South, | 0:54:31 | 0:54:34 | |
the 200 year-old tradition of men living in a remote place | 0:54:34 | 0:54:38 | |
and dedicating their lives to looking after a glorified light bulb | 0:54:38 | 0:54:42 | |
came to an end. | 0:54:42 | 0:54:45 | |
I personally believe that the human presence is | 0:54:45 | 0:54:49 | |
far superior to any of the new technology. | 0:54:49 | 0:54:55 | |
I just happened to be the last principal light keeper, | 0:54:55 | 0:54:58 | |
it just happened to be my watch when this happened. | 0:54:58 | 0:55:03 | |
It was a good day, but a sad day. | 0:55:03 | 0:55:06 | |
The last day with Princess Anne there, | 0:55:06 | 0:55:13 | |
when we folded up the flag, there was such a big lump in my throat. | 0:55:13 | 0:55:17 | |
Emotionally, it was quite draining and it took me a wee while to, | 0:55:17 | 0:55:21 | |
what would you say, re-adjust to a different way of life | 0:55:21 | 0:55:26 | |
and I wouldn't say I've probably re-adjusted yet. | 0:55:26 | 0:55:29 | |
I still look back with so many fond memories. | 0:55:29 | 0:55:33 | |
This is part of my hobby collection, | 0:55:33 | 0:55:38 | |
large collection of lighthouse books from around the world. | 0:55:38 | 0:55:44 | |
There's more in another bookcase down the stair. | 0:55:44 | 0:55:47 | |
All the lighthouse models. | 0:55:47 | 0:55:50 | |
That's just a small selection, there's other boxes up in the loft. | 0:55:50 | 0:55:54 | |
The most valuable thing here is this collection of | 0:55:54 | 0:55:59 | |
Scottish lighthouse postcards. | 0:55:59 | 0:56:02 | |
All pre-1960, when all these lighthouses were manned. | 0:56:04 | 0:56:10 | |
I wanted to complete the full collection before I'm finished. | 0:56:10 | 0:56:14 | |
I've got about five to go. | 0:56:14 | 0:56:18 | |
Probably the most valuable one I've got in here at the moment is Pladda, | 0:56:18 | 0:56:21 | |
I paid £68 for that. | 0:56:21 | 0:56:23 | |
I really wanted it badly. | 0:56:23 | 0:56:25 | |
I have bidded more than that, | 0:56:25 | 0:56:27 | |
but I've been unsuccessful at the moment. | 0:56:27 | 0:56:29 | |
But I'll get them. | 0:56:29 | 0:56:31 | |
A couple of years ago, I was in a ferry off Orkney, up on the bridge, | 0:56:31 | 0:56:35 | |
talking to the master as he was heading back towards Kirkwall | 0:56:35 | 0:56:38 | |
and I asked him whether he actually used the lights and the buoys | 0:56:38 | 0:56:42 | |
that we provide and he took a look at me and he said, "Good heavens, yes. | 0:56:42 | 0:56:47 | |
"This GPS", pointing at it, "tells me where it thinks I am, | 0:56:47 | 0:56:51 | |
"looking at that lighthouse over there or that buoy over there | 0:56:51 | 0:56:54 | |
-"tells me where I -know -I am and I'm much happier | 0:56:54 | 0:56:56 | |
"in those circumstances when the weather's bad, when visibility's bad, | 0:56:56 | 0:57:01 | |
"then I have that confidence of knowing where I am from traditional aids." | 0:57:01 | 0:57:05 | |
They represent humanity, generosity of spirit, | 0:57:05 | 0:57:08 | |
um, a disinterested... | 0:57:08 | 0:57:12 | |
desire to save life | 0:57:12 | 0:57:15 | |
and... | 0:57:15 | 0:57:17 | |
the capacity to endure. | 0:57:17 | 0:57:20 | |
They represent the best of us. | 0:57:20 | 0:57:24 | |
We'll never know the countless lives that sailed past | 0:57:24 | 0:57:29 | |
and might not have sailed past if they had, you know, on Skerryvore, | 0:57:29 | 0:57:33 | |
because that light was there and because guys like me were prepared | 0:57:33 | 0:57:37 | |
to take on the task of being there. | 0:57:37 | 0:57:39 | |
I feel extremely proud to have... | 0:57:39 | 0:57:42 | |
Been a member of such an elite band of brothers | 0:57:43 | 0:57:47 | |
and that's what they were to me throughout my time | 0:57:47 | 0:57:52 | |
in the lighthouse service... | 0:57:52 | 0:57:56 | |
and I just regard it as a life well-spent. | 0:57:56 | 0:58:00 | |
The Stevensons have vanished into history. | 0:58:02 | 0:58:05 | |
The profession of lighthouse keeper is now following them. | 0:58:05 | 0:58:09 | |
But the extraordinary structures they built and tended | 0:58:09 | 0:58:13 | |
still stand guard on Scotland's coast. | 0:58:13 | 0:58:16 | |
If it ever comes to be that they want to reintroduce the keepers, | 0:58:18 | 0:58:24 | |
I'll be first rattling at the door. | 0:58:24 | 0:58:27 | |
Great life. | 0:58:27 | 0:58:29 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:58:39 | 0:58:42 | |
Email [email protected] | 0:58:42 | 0:58:45 |