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I've been invited to join an extraordinary expedition | 0:00:19 | 0:00:23 | |
to a place I've dreamed of visiting since I was a boy. | 0:00:23 | 0:00:27 | |
Captain Robert Falcon Scott has been a hero of mine since before I can remember. | 0:00:27 | 0:00:34 | |
Many books have been written about his race to the South Pole in 1911. | 0:00:34 | 0:00:38 | |
But, a century on, new information is coming to light. | 0:00:38 | 0:00:43 | |
Somewhere out in the Antarctic, Scott built a hut where his team could survive in complete isolation. | 0:00:43 | 0:00:51 | |
When the hut was finally abandoned to the ice, 10,000 objects were left inside. | 0:00:51 | 0:00:58 | |
Today, it's still there and I'm on my way to find it. | 0:00:58 | 0:01:03 | |
Wow! That is incredible! | 0:01:03 | 0:01:07 | |
Few people have been to the hut and it's never been fully studied, but now a unique six year project | 0:01:07 | 0:01:15 | |
is in place, to forensically explore and conserve the hut and its contents. | 0:01:15 | 0:01:19 | |
It's completely overwhelming. | 0:01:22 | 0:01:24 | |
It's an extraordinary opportunity to see a part of Scott's world that's been lost for 100 years. | 0:01:26 | 0:01:33 | |
At last, the secrets of Scott's hut, frozen in time for a century, are being revealed. | 0:01:33 | 0:01:40 | |
Wow! | 0:02:09 | 0:02:11 | |
We've just landed on a temporary sea-ice runway. | 0:02:11 | 0:02:16 | |
This is an ocean under us now in this great big plane. | 0:02:16 | 0:02:19 | |
Scott in his wildest dreams could never have envisaged that worldwide travel could be like this. | 0:02:19 | 0:02:27 | |
The difference is that, for him, he would have had this slower acclimatisation. | 0:02:27 | 0:02:32 | |
He would have been cracking through this ice. | 0:02:32 | 0:02:34 | |
And I've just landed, and it's minus 20. It's bloody cold! | 0:02:34 | 0:02:39 | |
Scott's ship, the Terra Nova, left Cardiff on 15th June, 1910. | 0:02:41 | 0:02:47 | |
It took six months to reach McMurdo Sound in Antarctica. | 0:02:48 | 0:02:53 | |
A century on, and I've covered the same distance a little quicker. | 0:02:53 | 0:02:57 | |
Even today, getting to the hut is quite a challenge, | 0:03:00 | 0:03:03 | |
and, even if you make it, access is strictly controlled. | 0:03:03 | 0:03:07 | |
But Nigel Watson holds the key. | 0:03:07 | 0:03:10 | |
I've been granted special permission to spend time with the most extreme conservation team on Earth. | 0:03:10 | 0:03:16 | |
They're engaged in a six-year, £4 million project to save the hut | 0:03:16 | 0:03:21 | |
from complete collapse into the polar wilderness. | 0:03:21 | 0:03:24 | |
Because the hut lies in New Zealand's segment of the Antarctic, the expedition | 0:03:32 | 0:03:38 | |
will depart from New Zealand's Antarctic scientific headquarters, Scott Base. | 0:03:38 | 0:03:43 | |
PA SYSTEM: Hello, Scott Base, Scott Base... | 0:03:45 | 0:03:47 | |
Nick and Toby to the comms room please, Nick and Toby to the comms room. | 0:03:47 | 0:03:51 | |
It's only possible to visit the hut during the summer. | 0:03:51 | 0:03:55 | |
For the winter months of ferocious cold and continual darkness, | 0:03:55 | 0:03:58 | |
items are brought back to Scott Base to be worked on. | 0:03:58 | 0:04:02 | |
I don't know where that came from. | 0:04:02 | 0:04:06 | |
Diana Komejan and Cricket Harbeck are completing their winter work before heading back out to the hut. | 0:04:06 | 0:04:12 | |
Many of the things they work on have not been looked at for 100 years. | 0:04:12 | 0:04:17 | |
It's saying a medical supply box. | 0:04:17 | 0:04:20 | |
We have not looked into it, so... | 0:04:20 | 0:04:22 | |
-So this is the first time you've looked at this artefact? -Yeah. -How exciting! | 0:04:22 | 0:04:27 | |
-It's very exciting. Here we go. -Wow! | 0:04:27 | 0:04:30 | |
First thoughts looking at this box, I imagine there's quite a lot of work that needs to go into this. | 0:04:30 | 0:04:37 | |
Oh, this is a lot of work. We've got iron, we have some glass. | 0:04:37 | 0:04:42 | |
Each of those materials is going to be treated a different way, | 0:04:42 | 0:04:45 | |
so there's quite a few challenges in here. | 0:04:45 | 0:04:49 | |
The conservators take every item, clean it, repair damage, re-fix peeling labels | 0:04:49 | 0:04:54 | |
and arrest any rust and decay that threatens to destroy it. | 0:04:54 | 0:04:58 | |
Supplied by... | 0:04:58 | 0:05:00 | |
Burroughs, Welcome & Co., London. | 0:05:00 | 0:05:03 | |
-Sodium... -Diosulphate. | 0:05:03 | 0:05:05 | |
-That's a treasure trove. -Yeah. There's a mousetrap, that's funny. | 0:05:05 | 0:05:12 | |
In their medical box? | 0:05:12 | 0:05:13 | |
Apparently! | 0:05:13 | 0:05:15 | |
To keep mice out of the medical box or to keep thieving fingers out? | 0:05:15 | 0:05:20 | |
-Who knows? -I can see how, for Cricket and Diana, conservation is also detective work. | 0:05:20 | 0:05:27 | |
Through these objects, they are unpicking one of the great stories | 0:05:27 | 0:05:31 | |
in the history of Antarctic exploration. | 0:05:31 | 0:05:33 | |
Around the turn of the 20th century, world attention turned to the unmapped continent of Antarctica, | 0:05:35 | 0:05:43 | |
and the question of who would be first to get to the South Pole. | 0:05:43 | 0:05:47 | |
Stories of Antarctic exploration were filled with courage, endurance and tragedy. | 0:05:47 | 0:05:52 | |
None more so than that of Captain Robert Falcon Scott. | 0:05:52 | 0:05:57 | |
Everything being packed into this crate belonged to his expedition, | 0:06:01 | 0:06:06 | |
and has now been repaired, stabilised or cleaned. | 0:06:06 | 0:06:10 | |
As the winter's now over, it's time for these objects to be returned to the hut. | 0:06:10 | 0:06:15 | |
Lizzie Meek is head of conservation. | 0:06:15 | 0:06:17 | |
Her team have spent the winter working on these objects in the laboratory. | 0:06:17 | 0:06:21 | |
For her, this is the most nerve-racking part of the process. | 0:06:21 | 0:06:25 | |
So much work has been done on conserving them, | 0:06:25 | 0:06:28 | |
and now this is the moment where they're probably, you know, going to get the most movement in their lives, | 0:06:28 | 0:06:34 | |
and so we just want to make sure they're completely protected and well-secured on the journey out. | 0:06:34 | 0:06:40 | |
These are some of the most valuable, precious, polar artefacts in the world that are about to be dragged | 0:06:40 | 0:06:48 | |
for a couple of hours behind a bulldozer across Antarctica. | 0:06:48 | 0:06:52 | |
Before we head off in the morning, Lizzie insists that there's one view | 0:06:56 | 0:07:01 | |
every visitor should see before leaving Scott Base. | 0:07:01 | 0:07:04 | |
It's so beautiful here. | 0:07:26 | 0:07:29 | |
This is Castle Rock, | 0:07:30 | 0:07:32 | |
an iconic landmark that appears many times in Scott's diaries. | 0:07:32 | 0:07:37 | |
It's so different, I think, from some of those images I always had | 0:07:39 | 0:07:44 | |
of blizzards and the tents slapping in the wind. | 0:07:44 | 0:07:47 | |
And it's cold, don't get me wrong, it's cold today, | 0:07:47 | 0:07:51 | |
but it looks like such a calm... | 0:07:51 | 0:07:54 | |
happy place. | 0:07:54 | 0:07:57 | |
It's got a big bite out there. | 0:07:58 | 0:07:59 | |
It's funny, it's not until you look at a sign like that | 0:08:12 | 0:08:16 | |
that you realise how far away we are from civilisation. | 0:08:16 | 0:08:20 | |
But also, | 0:08:20 | 0:08:22 | |
the fact that London and Oslo in Norway are the two places | 0:08:22 | 0:08:26 | |
that are just about further than anywhere else in the world, | 0:08:26 | 0:08:31 | |
the two main protagonists in this whole thing. | 0:08:31 | 0:08:34 | |
Scott from England, Amundsen from Norway, came from the furthest-away place. | 0:08:34 | 0:08:42 | |
The first hint that Scott had competition came during the sea journey south. | 0:08:42 | 0:08:47 | |
Roald Amundsen, a Norwegian explorer, | 0:08:47 | 0:08:50 | |
was believed to be heading for the North Pole in his ship, the Fram. | 0:08:50 | 0:08:54 | |
But while Scott was en route south, he received an enigmatic telegram | 0:08:54 | 0:08:58 | |
that simply read, "Beg leave to inform you, Fram heading Antarctic. Amundsen." | 0:08:58 | 0:09:05 | |
It was the first hint of what the world would later call "the race for the pole". | 0:09:05 | 0:09:13 | |
-How are you feeling? -I can't wait to get out there. | 0:09:20 | 0:09:23 | |
When I was invited to make this visit, I met up | 0:09:24 | 0:09:28 | |
with Sir David Attenborough, a vocal campaigner on behalf of the hut and the places Scott went to. | 0:09:28 | 0:09:33 | |
Well, for anybody who cares about the history of human beings, | 0:09:33 | 0:09:38 | |
and who cares about the history of the human spirit, | 0:09:38 | 0:09:41 | |
these are irreplaceable, wonderful, extraordinary places. | 0:09:41 | 0:09:46 | |
You can sense, in a more powerful way than anywhere else on Earth, | 0:09:47 | 0:09:53 | |
the spirit, the human spirit | 0:09:53 | 0:09:55 | |
that drove Scott and his men to do the extraordinary, selfless, heroic things that they did. | 0:09:55 | 0:10:02 | |
It's strange to think that this small expedition | 0:10:02 | 0:10:06 | |
is what could preserve all of that for future generations. | 0:10:06 | 0:10:10 | |
Nigel Watson first travelled across this ice a decade ago. | 0:10:13 | 0:10:18 | |
It was on that journey that he fell in love with the hut | 0:10:18 | 0:10:21 | |
and resolved to fully explore it, saving the hut and its contents from complete disintegration. | 0:10:21 | 0:10:29 | |
The wind is the real enemy, as you know, in Antarctica. | 0:10:29 | 0:10:32 | |
I've been in a situation where I've been in camp | 0:10:32 | 0:10:35 | |
and we've had a storm that's blown severe winds for four, five days, where you can't get out of your tent. | 0:10:35 | 0:10:42 | |
I must say, when the wind is really blowing and you're working around | 0:10:42 | 0:10:45 | |
that hut, you'll find that you walk into that hut and it's a real sense of relief. | 0:10:45 | 0:10:50 | |
Even 100 years later, it's a place of refuge. | 0:10:50 | 0:10:54 | |
Scott's hut is on Ross Island, but connected to the mainland of Antarctica by a permanent ice shelf. | 0:10:54 | 0:11:02 | |
We're travelling north, from Scott Base to Scott's hut at Cape Evans, | 0:11:02 | 0:11:06 | |
the point where Scott was able to land the Terra Nova and establish his base for the expedition. | 0:11:06 | 0:11:12 | |
We're nearly here. We're about to round Cape Evans | 0:11:14 | 0:11:17 | |
and, as we pull into the bay, | 0:11:17 | 0:11:19 | |
we're going see the hut. | 0:11:19 | 0:11:21 | |
That's it, there. I can see the roof. Wow! | 0:11:21 | 0:11:27 | |
We're going to pull up into Home Beach and it will be right in front of you. | 0:11:31 | 0:11:35 | |
Careful there, yeah? | 0:11:46 | 0:11:48 | |
This is amazing. | 0:11:55 | 0:11:57 | |
You know when you've waited for a moment for so long? | 0:11:57 | 0:12:01 | |
It's the hut! | 0:12:01 | 0:12:03 | |
In this age of instant gratification, | 0:12:03 | 0:12:06 | |
where you're used to getting on a flight and you're there, | 0:12:06 | 0:12:11 | |
it's still taken me a week to get here. | 0:12:11 | 0:12:14 | |
Look, from the pictures, all this sand and everything around. | 0:12:14 | 0:12:18 | |
This must be one of the anchors. | 0:12:18 | 0:12:20 | |
So all of this, everything around I see, is from the hut. This is all... | 0:12:22 | 0:12:28 | |
It's all original. | 0:12:28 | 0:12:30 | |
Yeah, absolutely, you see some of the remnants of sleds, | 0:12:30 | 0:12:33 | |
a lot of detritus around the site that has been blown around. | 0:12:33 | 0:12:36 | |
But you can see how the weather of 100 years has just nailed back that beautiful patina on the wood. | 0:12:36 | 0:12:43 | |
-Can I go in? -Absolutely. | 0:12:51 | 0:12:53 | |
Few people get to step through this door, and fewer still spend more than a few moments here. | 0:12:53 | 0:13:00 | |
I'm privileged to be spending a week exploring the hut. | 0:13:00 | 0:13:03 | |
And what's more, as the hut has been inaccessible for the winter, | 0:13:03 | 0:13:07 | |
we will be the first to step inside for many months. | 0:13:07 | 0:13:11 | |
It's completely overwhelming. | 0:13:44 | 0:13:47 | |
The hut, and every object in it, came on board the Terra Nova. | 0:13:57 | 0:14:03 | |
This was to be the base for scientific work, everyday life, and great adventure. | 0:14:03 | 0:14:08 | |
All part of Scott's plan for his two-year Antarctic expedition. | 0:14:08 | 0:14:13 | |
I recognise places in here. | 0:14:13 | 0:14:16 | |
Look, this... | 0:14:16 | 0:14:18 | |
There's this fantastic photograph. | 0:14:18 | 0:14:21 | |
And then this is the table, I imagine... | 0:14:28 | 0:14:31 | |
The great picture of Scott celebrating his birthday. | 0:14:31 | 0:14:37 | |
He must have been here, and the flags hanging... | 0:14:37 | 0:14:40 | |
I assume behind here is where Scott was. | 0:14:48 | 0:14:51 | |
This is just amazing! | 0:14:58 | 0:15:00 | |
This has to be Scott's bunk. | 0:15:00 | 0:15:03 | |
If I remember, there's a picture of him sitting here working, writing at his desk. | 0:15:03 | 0:15:10 | |
It's all, it's all kind of falling into place. | 0:15:10 | 0:15:14 | |
You feel their presence, you definitely feel | 0:15:14 | 0:15:17 | |
those years of inhabitation. | 0:15:19 | 0:15:23 | |
Wow! | 0:15:23 | 0:15:25 | |
An hour later, a lone tractor makes its way around the headland, | 0:15:39 | 0:15:43 | |
with six crates of conserved objects about to be returned. | 0:15:43 | 0:15:48 | |
-BEEPING -Pretty surreal, the beeping of a tractor, | 0:15:48 | 0:15:53 | |
backing up some of the most priceless and important artefacts in polar history. | 0:15:53 | 0:15:59 | |
Let's get going! | 0:15:59 | 0:16:02 | |
-No rushing! -OK, no rushing. | 0:16:02 | 0:16:04 | |
Could you imagine if you were in a museum back in England, | 0:16:06 | 0:16:11 | |
these would be handled SO delicately, white gloves, | 0:16:11 | 0:16:14 | |
there'd probably be trolleys and pick-up trucks to do it, | 0:16:14 | 0:16:18 | |
but out here, you know, it's just laborious. | 0:16:18 | 0:16:21 | |
-Onto this table? -Yes. | 0:16:21 | 0:16:24 | |
All these supplies originally had to be unloaded, and here are all these tools going up the beach once again. | 0:16:31 | 0:16:37 | |
It's like history repeating itself. | 0:16:37 | 0:16:39 | |
These objects were first carried up this beach in January 1911. | 0:16:44 | 0:16:49 | |
The Terra Nova had arrived in Antarctica, and Cape Evans | 0:16:55 | 0:16:58 | |
was chosen as the best place to offload everything from the ship. | 0:16:58 | 0:17:02 | |
A round trip to the South Pole of 1,500 miles on foot would take an entire summer, but until then, | 0:17:02 | 0:17:09 | |
the hut would be a place to prepare, undertake scientific research, and wait out the oncoming winter. | 0:17:09 | 0:17:16 | |
There has been a steady stream of cases, passing along the shore all day. | 0:17:16 | 0:17:22 | |
The long, level beach has enabled Bowers to arrange his stores in the most systematic manner. | 0:17:22 | 0:17:29 | |
I tell you what, this is bringing back some memories. | 0:17:34 | 0:17:38 | |
I've spent many hours man-hauling loads a little smaller than this one. | 0:17:39 | 0:17:47 | |
Ooh, that is quite... | 0:17:47 | 0:17:49 | |
This isn't my first visit to Antarctica. | 0:17:51 | 0:17:53 | |
Two years ago, I took part in the first race to the South Pole for a century. | 0:17:53 | 0:17:58 | |
It was an extreme challenge, but it only served to make me | 0:18:00 | 0:18:05 | |
more interested in the trials Scott went through back in 1911. | 0:18:05 | 0:18:08 | |
I'd hoped that this time I'd get to stay in Scott's hut, but I'm told there's no chance of that. | 0:18:12 | 0:18:18 | |
The building has been preserved by the cold, | 0:18:18 | 0:18:21 | |
and the warmth of sleeping bodies | 0:18:21 | 0:18:23 | |
could defrost the hut and bring on decay. | 0:18:23 | 0:18:25 | |
Instead, we're making camp on the beach. | 0:18:25 | 0:18:28 | |
Not easy this tent stuff. | 0:18:33 | 0:18:37 | |
HE SIGHS | 0:18:37 | 0:18:39 | |
So, my first night camping back in Antarctica | 0:18:39 | 0:18:46 | |
since I did my trek to the South Pole, but the wind is certainly beginning to pick up. | 0:18:46 | 0:18:52 | |
Good to be back though. | 0:18:53 | 0:18:55 | |
A world away from the frozen wastes of Antarctica, Scott remains an instantly-recognised name, | 0:19:04 | 0:19:11 | |
but it seems we still can't agree on what kind of man he was. | 0:19:11 | 0:19:16 | |
Clearly, for the first 60 years after his death, | 0:19:18 | 0:19:21 | |
Scott was celebrated as the archetypal British hero. | 0:19:21 | 0:19:25 | |
A national icon, played as such in the 1948 film by John Mills. | 0:19:25 | 0:19:30 | |
9,000 feet up. | 0:19:35 | 0:19:37 | |
The barrier and the glacier behind us. | 0:19:37 | 0:19:40 | |
It should be level going now. | 0:19:40 | 0:19:42 | |
All the way to our goal. | 0:19:42 | 0:19:44 | |
Then in 1979, the writer Roland Huntford studied the records and came to a very different conclusion. | 0:19:53 | 0:20:00 | |
Was Scott a hero? In my book, no. | 0:20:00 | 0:20:04 | |
He was not a hero, because he was a failure. | 0:20:04 | 0:20:07 | |
In his book, Roland Huntford makes a series of allegations, | 0:20:07 | 0:20:11 | |
attacking Scott for serious weaknesses in his leadership style. | 0:20:11 | 0:20:14 | |
He was responsible for the deaths of those five men. | 0:20:14 | 0:20:17 | |
He led better men than himself to their death. | 0:20:17 | 0:20:20 | |
The effect of Huntford's work was huge, | 0:20:20 | 0:20:22 | |
and Scott's portrayal in popular culture changed dramatically. | 0:20:22 | 0:20:28 | |
Good day, sir. Wheeeee! | 0:20:28 | 0:20:32 | |
Get up, you bloody fool. | 0:20:32 | 0:20:35 | |
By 1985, Scott was being portrayed as an irascible, impatient, unreasonable man, | 0:20:35 | 0:20:42 | |
out of touch with his own team, obsessively chasing Shackleton's record, set three years earlier. | 0:20:42 | 0:20:49 | |
We're falling further and further behind, and it simply won't do. | 0:20:49 | 0:20:53 | |
Further behind who? | 0:20:53 | 0:20:55 | |
Shackleton, who else? | 0:20:55 | 0:20:57 | |
The explorer, Ranulph Fiennes, was so angered by this criticism, | 0:20:57 | 0:21:01 | |
that he set about writing a book to counter Huntford's claims. | 0:21:01 | 0:21:05 | |
Scott was not just organised, Scott was brilliant. | 0:21:05 | 0:21:09 | |
Captain Scott would have gone huge places if he'd stayed in the Royal Navy. | 0:21:09 | 0:21:13 | |
He was a brilliant bloke. | 0:21:13 | 0:21:15 | |
Of course Scott failed. | 0:21:15 | 0:21:18 | |
He wanted to be first at the Pole and he wasn't. | 0:21:18 | 0:21:21 | |
What Scott did at the forefront of science was a huge success. | 0:21:21 | 0:21:26 | |
Scott's expeditions produced more scientific information from Antarctica | 0:21:26 | 0:21:31 | |
than all the other international polar expeditions of the first half of the 20th century. | 0:21:31 | 0:21:36 | |
That is incredible. | 0:21:36 | 0:21:37 | |
The historical facts are that Amundsen won the race. | 0:21:37 | 0:21:44 | |
Personally, I prefer winners to losers. | 0:21:44 | 0:21:48 | |
My second day in camp begins, and the weather has changed. | 0:21:55 | 0:21:58 | |
A violent wind has ripped the outer layer of the tent in the night. | 0:21:58 | 0:22:02 | |
I thought it was making a bit of noise. | 0:22:02 | 0:22:05 | |
The problem is, out here, | 0:22:07 | 0:22:10 | |
the wind's really come in. | 0:22:10 | 0:22:12 | |
This is, well, probably gusting around 30, 35 miles per hour, | 0:22:12 | 0:22:20 | |
and you can see what damage it can do. | 0:22:20 | 0:22:24 | |
And in fact, to get the wind chill, | 0:22:24 | 0:22:26 | |
you take a temperature, which I know today is about minus 15, | 0:22:26 | 0:22:31 | |
and add it to the wind speed, so that's about minus 45. | 0:22:31 | 0:22:35 | |
So exposed skin like this, at minus 45, | 0:22:35 | 0:22:39 | |
a couple of minutes and you're going to get frostnip. | 0:22:39 | 0:22:42 | |
That's where the top layer of the skin freezes, | 0:22:42 | 0:22:46 | |
and after that, you'll get frostbite, | 0:22:46 | 0:22:49 | |
which is what Scott's team suffered a lot from. | 0:22:49 | 0:22:52 | |
So, I'll try and cover up. | 0:22:52 | 0:22:54 | |
I'm going to check the rest of the tent. | 0:22:56 | 0:22:59 | |
I dread to think what it would have been like in this weather in the clothes of 1911. | 0:22:59 | 0:23:04 | |
There's one place where today's conservation team can get warm. | 0:23:04 | 0:23:09 | |
A Portakabin serves as a place to eat, meet and escape the elements. | 0:23:09 | 0:23:13 | |
We've drawn up a rota, and on our first full day in camp, I'm on breakfast duty. | 0:23:20 | 0:23:26 | |
Well, this is a bit of respite from the wind. | 0:23:26 | 0:23:31 | |
SHE LAUGHS | 0:23:39 | 0:23:41 | |
It's a little breezy out there(!) | 0:23:41 | 0:23:43 | |
It's also a very useful place to get my bearings. | 0:23:45 | 0:23:49 | |
OK, here's my map of Antarctica here. | 0:23:49 | 0:23:52 | |
We've got due south that way, north up this way. | 0:23:52 | 0:23:56 | |
Here's the enormous continent of Antarctica. | 0:23:56 | 0:23:59 | |
You've got the Ross Sea over here. But this area, | 0:23:59 | 0:24:02 | |
coloured green on the map, this is the Ross Ice Shelf. | 0:24:02 | 0:24:06 | |
This is the size of France, it's absolutely enormous. | 0:24:06 | 0:24:09 | |
Captain Scott came in on the Terra Nova, landed on Ross Island. | 0:24:09 | 0:24:13 | |
So this was basically the plan. They were going to go all the way across the ice shelf, 425 miles, | 0:24:13 | 0:24:20 | |
an enormous distance, before turning up the Beardmore Glacier. | 0:24:20 | 0:24:24 | |
That's 120 miles up to high altitude. | 0:24:24 | 0:24:27 | |
This was going to be a really tough leg, where they would then have their final, 350-mile march | 0:24:27 | 0:24:34 | |
to their goal, the South Pole. | 0:24:34 | 0:24:36 | |
My next job is to provide a little light, so that the conservators' work can begin. | 0:24:40 | 0:24:45 | |
The windows of the hut have been blocked by snow over winter, | 0:24:45 | 0:24:49 | |
so, just as in Scott's day, | 0:24:49 | 0:24:51 | |
someone's got to get up onto the roof and clear it. | 0:24:51 | 0:24:54 | |
There's such a rich mine of stuff in here, there's so much to look at. | 0:25:33 | 0:25:39 | |
I don't really know where to begin. | 0:25:39 | 0:25:42 | |
But this coat here, with its ends here all weathered, | 0:25:42 | 0:25:47 | |
and you look at this jumper, with all the salt stains on it, | 0:25:47 | 0:25:51 | |
and I wonder whether that's from the ocean, | 0:25:51 | 0:25:54 | |
but then I've got this image of them man-hauling and perhaps sweating, leaving all of these stains. | 0:25:54 | 0:26:00 | |
It's amazing, when you first come into this hut it's very dark, and then as your eyes begin to adjust, | 0:26:07 | 0:26:14 | |
you suddenly start making out some of these 10,000 items in here, | 0:26:14 | 0:26:20 | |
and the closer you look, the more you uncover parts of Scott's story, I suppose. | 0:26:20 | 0:26:26 | |
My first real surprise is that there's so much scientific equipment in the hut. | 0:26:27 | 0:26:32 | |
It's everywhere. | 0:26:32 | 0:26:34 | |
Clearly, this was far more than just a race to the pole. | 0:26:34 | 0:26:37 | |
Nigel Watson is the executive director of The New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust. | 0:26:39 | 0:26:46 | |
During a visit in 2004, he realised that the hut was close to collapse | 0:26:46 | 0:26:50 | |
and resolved to save it, before it vanished into the snow. | 0:26:50 | 0:26:55 | |
He initiated an extraordinary conservation project to preserve the hut in its original location. | 0:26:55 | 0:27:02 | |
Lizzie Meek is Head of Conservation. Lizzie and her small team are two years into a six-year project | 0:27:02 | 0:27:08 | |
to explore and save everything in the hut from disintegration. | 0:27:08 | 0:27:12 | |
I was wondering about the salt that's kind of spilling out of this jar here. | 0:27:12 | 0:27:18 | |
I've seen this before, and what happens is, the moisture | 0:27:18 | 0:27:21 | |
gets absorbed by the salt and the salt expands, and then it's... | 0:27:21 | 0:27:25 | |
See, it's pushed the lid. | 0:27:25 | 0:27:26 | |
She selects objects to be returned to Scott Base, where they're cleaned, decay is arrested, | 0:27:26 | 0:27:32 | |
peeling labels are re-stuck, and even century-old cheeses are stabilised. | 0:27:32 | 0:27:38 | |
-Although, um... You want to have a sniff? -Yeah, can I? | 0:27:38 | 0:27:41 | |
Wow, that's ripe. That might be beyond ripe! | 0:27:41 | 0:27:44 | |
-Yeah, yeah. -Once work is complete, each object is returned to the hut, | 0:27:44 | 0:27:49 | |
but sometimes, the conservation process throws up some surprises. | 0:27:49 | 0:27:53 | |
When we were working on the safelight, we found that, not only had it been modified inside, | 0:27:53 | 0:27:58 | |
but there was this really cool little object inside it. | 0:27:58 | 0:28:01 | |
This is a photographer's magnifying loop. | 0:28:01 | 0:28:04 | |
So that was just hidden inside, was it? | 0:28:06 | 0:28:08 | |
Just sitting inside, that's right. | 0:28:08 | 0:28:10 | |
-That must be quite exciting for you, when you're uncovering these items? -Oh, it's very exciting. | 0:28:10 | 0:28:15 | |
We get excited anyway, seeing the object be revealed through the process. | 0:28:15 | 0:28:19 | |
But to find something extra that no-one knew was there is special. | 0:28:19 | 0:28:23 | |
Slowly, this work is filling in all sorts of previously unknown details about Scott's expedition. | 0:28:23 | 0:28:29 | |
Scott kept a detailed diary, right up to his last day in a frozen tent out on the ice shelf. | 0:28:31 | 0:28:36 | |
I want to use this opportunity to piece together the diaries | 0:28:36 | 0:28:40 | |
with the discoveries in the hut, in the hope of establishing what kind of leader Scott really was. | 0:28:40 | 0:28:48 | |
'We took up our abode in the hut today. | 0:28:48 | 0:28:51 | |
'I found Bowers making cubicles, so instructed him to build a bulkhead of cases | 0:28:51 | 0:28:55 | |
'which shuts off the officers' space from the men's, I am quite sure to the satisfaction of both.' | 0:28:55 | 0:29:01 | |
"SS Terra Nova." So these obviously came from the ship, but they weren't just used for supplies. | 0:29:03 | 0:29:08 | |
This was very much a division. | 0:29:08 | 0:29:11 | |
This divided the officers and the gentlemen, the scientists from the men. | 0:29:11 | 0:29:15 | |
What this wall for me, this wall that's partially here is illustrating and highlighting, | 0:29:15 | 0:29:22 | |
is that all those photographs we see down in this part of the hut, | 0:29:22 | 0:29:26 | |
but here, right over here, it's the barest part of the hut. | 0:29:26 | 0:29:32 | |
This is where the men lived. | 0:29:32 | 0:29:33 | |
And yet they were integral to this expedition. | 0:29:33 | 0:29:36 | |
They were. These were the engine, if you like, the second tier of men that, | 0:29:36 | 0:29:41 | |
the people you don't hear the stories about, guys who had great Antarctic experience. | 0:29:41 | 0:29:46 | |
Day, Crean was a classic, Evans, who died on the Pole, | 0:29:46 | 0:29:51 | |
the strongest man of the party, they were all the men from the mess deck. | 0:29:51 | 0:29:55 | |
They're not the famous officers we know about. | 0:29:55 | 0:29:58 | |
We know that Scott's Norwegian rival, Amundsen, had no such class division in his hut. | 0:29:58 | 0:30:05 | |
Was it a sign of weakness that Scott, the British navy captain, segregated his expedition, | 0:30:05 | 0:30:11 | |
not only distancing officers from men, but distancing himself from everyone else? | 0:30:11 | 0:30:17 | |
Is this private cabin the reflection of a man divorced from his own team, | 0:30:17 | 0:30:21 | |
as Roland Huntford claimed, unwilling to consider any opinion but his own? | 0:30:21 | 0:30:26 | |
Scott's shore party was made up of 25 men, making it the biggest Antarctic expedition of its age. | 0:30:30 | 0:30:36 | |
It had five officers, including Captain Scott himself, 11 scientists and nine unranked men. | 0:30:36 | 0:30:44 | |
Though most of the objects in the hut were left by the officers, it's a space on the unranked side | 0:30:46 | 0:30:51 | |
of the divide that perhaps tells us most about Scott's character. | 0:30:51 | 0:30:55 | |
The kitchen is both intriguing and revealing. | 0:30:55 | 0:31:00 | |
And we've got all of these fantastic items here, some of which I recognise. | 0:31:02 | 0:31:06 | |
So Colman's, and I can see Heinz Baked Beans. | 0:31:06 | 0:31:10 | |
We've been having some of those out here ourselves. | 0:31:10 | 0:31:13 | |
But you've got some more unusual things like Real Turtle Soup. That's just extraordinary. | 0:31:13 | 0:31:19 | |
So, how much of this stuff was just off the shelf, effectively bought from a supermarket, | 0:31:19 | 0:31:24 | |
and how much was specifically for the expedition? | 0:31:24 | 0:31:27 | |
Well, a lot of it was off the shelf. | 0:31:27 | 0:31:29 | |
A lot of it was sponsored. A lot of sponsors came on board. | 0:31:29 | 0:31:32 | |
There's great publicity shots of those early products. | 0:31:32 | 0:31:35 | |
A lot of things were made | 0:31:35 | 0:31:37 | |
specifically for the expedition, | 0:31:37 | 0:31:39 | |
for example the Bovril Sledging Rations, | 0:31:39 | 0:31:42 | |
and other objects like Huntley & Palmers Biscuits. They were crafted | 0:31:42 | 0:31:46 | |
with a special formula for those biscuits for the expedition. | 0:31:46 | 0:31:51 | |
Scott knew that his expedition would be the focus of the newly-emerging newspaper industry. | 0:31:51 | 0:31:56 | |
He realised that manufacturers would contribute generously in return for shots like this. | 0:31:56 | 0:32:02 | |
Much of the contents of this well-stocked kitchen | 0:32:02 | 0:32:05 | |
have clearly been specifically supplied in return for publicity. | 0:32:05 | 0:32:09 | |
Scott was creating the concept of sponsorship. | 0:32:09 | 0:32:13 | |
These pictures were taken by Herbert Ponting. | 0:32:15 | 0:32:18 | |
He was one of Scott's truly innovative appointments | 0:32:18 | 0:32:21 | |
and was clearly considered incredibly valuable. | 0:32:21 | 0:32:24 | |
Apart from Scott himself, he was the only other person allowed his own space. | 0:32:24 | 0:32:29 | |
Herbert Ponting was a photographer with a name for capturing stunning images. | 0:32:34 | 0:32:39 | |
In the past, artists were employed to record expeditions by hand. | 0:32:42 | 0:32:47 | |
But Scott was media-savvy and the first explorer to fully realise the potential for photography. | 0:32:47 | 0:32:53 | |
He employed Ponting to document a great heroic adventure, | 0:32:55 | 0:32:59 | |
to engage the press and to fulfil sponsorship deals. | 0:32:59 | 0:33:03 | |
Scott was making sure the world saw his expedition his way. | 0:33:03 | 0:33:08 | |
Cricket, this is 8130... | 0:33:14 | 0:33:16 | |
The team are returning some of Ponting's items that were taken away to be worked on over winter. | 0:33:16 | 0:33:21 | |
Lizzie is responsible for ensuring that everything is returned undamaged | 0:33:21 | 0:33:26 | |
and replaced where it was found. | 0:33:26 | 0:33:28 | |
So this is Ponting's darkroom, which is a separate unit within the hut, isn't it? | 0:33:28 | 0:33:33 | |
It is. It's closed off. It was actually his bedroom. | 0:33:33 | 0:33:35 | |
He got his own room, where he had this bunk that folded back against the wall. | 0:33:35 | 0:33:39 | |
Lucky sod! Although it probably was a bit whiffy with all the chemicals. | 0:33:39 | 0:33:43 | |
I can imagine that, but probably good in the height of summer when there was no darkness here. | 0:33:43 | 0:33:48 | |
-Yes. -It's probably the darkest room in there. -Hence the name. | 0:33:48 | 0:33:52 | |
What really strikes me coming in here is, if you think about it, | 0:33:56 | 0:34:01 | |
Ponting had one of the biggest sections in the whole hut, to process these photographs. | 0:34:01 | 0:34:07 | |
It was very much a modern expedition. | 0:34:07 | 0:34:11 | |
They really relied on all of this media material that was going to go back to feed the newspapers, | 0:34:11 | 0:34:18 | |
and, I suppose, to please their sponsors. | 0:34:18 | 0:34:22 | |
And some of the most iconic polar images ever were created in this lab. | 0:34:23 | 0:34:29 | |
And not just still images. | 0:34:31 | 0:34:33 | |
This extraordinary film was developed by Ponting in his darkroom in the hut. | 0:34:35 | 0:34:40 | |
When it was premiered back in Britain, it caused a sensation. | 0:34:40 | 0:34:44 | |
People flocked to see it. | 0:34:44 | 0:34:45 | |
Ponting had turned Scott into a celebrity and a hero. | 0:34:45 | 0:34:49 | |
Having only spent a few hours in the hut, I'm already getting a real sense of Scott. | 0:34:52 | 0:34:57 | |
He imposed a class structure, a reflection of Edwardian society. | 0:34:57 | 0:35:01 | |
But he was also an innovator, using the latest techniques to get his story on to the news stands. | 0:35:01 | 0:35:07 | |
Scott was a man who understood how his world worked. | 0:35:07 | 0:35:11 | |
But there's something unavoidable that's not reflected in the diaries or the photographs. | 0:35:11 | 0:35:17 | |
The hut is a dark, shadowy place. | 0:35:17 | 0:35:20 | |
It's boxed in and slightly oppressive, which is strangely close to how Scott is sometimes described. | 0:35:20 | 0:35:27 | |
It's a strange feeling, accentuated by the fact that, outside the hut, | 0:35:30 | 0:35:34 | |
though it's still bitterly cold, we have bright sunlight right around the clock. | 0:35:34 | 0:35:39 | |
I don't think you ever get used to 24-hour sunlight. | 0:35:44 | 0:35:47 | |
I found this fantastic extract from Scott's diary. | 0:35:47 | 0:35:50 | |
It says, "Tonight is absolutely calm with glorious, bright sunshine. | 0:35:50 | 0:35:55 | |
-"Several people were sunning themselves at 11 o'clock at night." -HE LAUGHS | 0:35:55 | 0:36:00 | |
Arriving in January, Scott knows that the 24-hour sunlight | 0:36:02 | 0:36:06 | |
is going to give way to 24-hour darkness in about 12 weeks' time. | 0:36:06 | 0:36:10 | |
So no sooner had they set up their comfortable hut here at Cape Evans, then they were off again. | 0:36:14 | 0:36:20 | |
One team of scientists headed due west, out to here. | 0:36:20 | 0:36:24 | |
Another team headed east, over there. | 0:36:24 | 0:36:27 | |
And Scott, meanwhile, and his team | 0:36:27 | 0:36:29 | |
begin laying depots along this line, up to about 120 miles. | 0:36:29 | 0:36:35 | |
This has food, fuel, everything they needed, ready for their great assault south. | 0:36:35 | 0:36:40 | |
But Scott's photographer, Ponting, had a journey of his own in mind. | 0:36:47 | 0:36:51 | |
He wanted to travel 12 miles around Ross Island to Cape Royds, | 0:36:51 | 0:36:55 | |
to photograph the hut left behind | 0:36:55 | 0:36:57 | |
by the famous explorer Ernest Shackleton just three years earlier. | 0:36:57 | 0:37:02 | |
He was keen to see how the famous hut compared with Scott's hut at Cape Evans. | 0:37:05 | 0:37:09 | |
Look! Shackleton's hut. | 0:37:16 | 0:37:18 | |
That's Royds there. | 0:37:18 | 0:37:20 | |
That is fantastic! | 0:37:20 | 0:37:22 | |
Shackleton was popular, with an informal style of leadership. | 0:37:22 | 0:37:27 | |
In 1907, he'd got closer to the pole than anyone else. | 0:37:27 | 0:37:31 | |
His expedition was considered the greatest feat of polar exploration. | 0:37:31 | 0:37:36 | |
And as arch-rival, Scott was obsessed by him. | 0:37:36 | 0:37:39 | |
It has a really homely air to it, this hut. | 0:37:57 | 0:38:03 | |
It's still got name tags on some of these socks here. | 0:38:16 | 0:38:18 | |
Reminds me of school. | 0:38:18 | 0:38:21 | |
It definitely has... a completely different feel | 0:38:23 | 0:38:30 | |
to Scott's hut at Cape Evans. | 0:38:30 | 0:38:32 | |
It feels much more... | 0:38:33 | 0:38:36 | |
Well it feels much less divided, for a start. | 0:38:36 | 0:38:39 | |
There's a little cubicle, curtains that you can close behind, | 0:38:39 | 0:38:42 | |
but it feels like they were one, rather than a divided party. | 0:38:42 | 0:38:47 | |
And coming in here now... | 0:38:49 | 0:38:50 | |
..I'm loath to admit it, but I think I would prefer to have been on Shackleton's team than Scott's. | 0:38:52 | 0:38:57 | |
It looks like they had a happier time. | 0:38:57 | 0:38:59 | |
I don't know if that's because of history. History is ingrained within the huts. | 0:38:59 | 0:39:04 | |
If I think now back to Cape Evans, it's just steeped in tragedy, but is that because we know the outcome? | 0:39:04 | 0:39:10 | |
Would it have had that feeling had I not known the whole story? | 0:39:10 | 0:39:15 | |
I could quite happily spend a year here. | 0:39:17 | 0:39:20 | |
Just have to persuade my wife. | 0:39:21 | 0:39:24 | |
But it's what outside the hut that really caught Ponting's attention. | 0:39:27 | 0:39:31 | |
Eager to capture as much as possible for the first time, he spent days photographing the colony of penguins | 0:39:50 | 0:39:57 | |
here at Cape Royds, to amaze audiences back home. | 0:39:57 | 0:40:01 | |
And I must admit, a century on, nothing's changed. | 0:40:05 | 0:40:08 | |
It's still an amazing sight. | 0:40:08 | 0:40:11 | |
What an amazing place. Antarctica's like layers on layers on layers. | 0:40:22 | 0:40:25 | |
So today, we've got the fantastic heritage of Shackleton with his hut, | 0:40:25 | 0:40:30 | |
but then we've got a smoking volcano over there, the Barne Glacier, | 0:40:30 | 0:40:33 | |
a frozen ocean, | 0:40:33 | 0:40:34 | |
and as if that wasn't enough, we've got penguins behind. | 0:40:34 | 0:40:38 | |
It's incredible! | 0:40:38 | 0:40:39 | |
But back in 1909, Shackleton failed to get to the pole. | 0:40:47 | 0:40:51 | |
That goal was still open to Scott's 1911 expedition, down the coast at Cape Evans. | 0:40:51 | 0:40:57 | |
Scott's hut was rediscovered in 1947, | 0:40:59 | 0:41:03 | |
and first chipped out of the ice by a New Zealand expedition in 1960. | 0:41:03 | 0:41:08 | |
In the years following, occasional expeditions, happening upon the hut, took mementos and keepsakes. | 0:41:08 | 0:41:16 | |
The New Zealand government took action, insisting that all visits are accompanied | 0:41:16 | 0:41:21 | |
and severe penalties imposed on anyone removing artefacts. | 0:41:21 | 0:41:24 | |
Now, the Antarctic Heritage Trust is studying everything in the hut, | 0:41:24 | 0:41:28 | |
and new things are continually coming to light. | 0:41:28 | 0:41:31 | |
-Can you believe that? -What, this little thing here? | 0:41:31 | 0:41:35 | |
Yeah, look, I'll bring it out. | 0:41:35 | 0:41:38 | |
-So what have we got here? -I think we've got the smallest book in the building. | 0:41:38 | 0:41:42 | |
It's amazingly small! | 0:41:42 | 0:41:44 | |
It's one of these things we keep discovering. | 0:41:44 | 0:41:47 | |
It keeps giving up these secrets after 100 years. | 0:41:47 | 0:41:50 | |
Do you know what book it is? | 0:41:50 | 0:41:51 | |
We don't, but it looks like "Windsor"... | 0:41:51 | 0:41:54 | |
-The Merry Wives Of Windsor. That's Shakespeare. -Pocket edition! | 0:41:54 | 0:41:57 | |
Just amazing. What would be the point of bringing a book this small? | 0:41:57 | 0:42:02 | |
Well, we don't know, but perhaps it was, you know, | 0:42:02 | 0:42:06 | |
tucked inside your jacket on your sledging journey. | 0:42:06 | 0:42:09 | |
It's so delicate and so small. | 0:42:09 | 0:42:12 | |
The conservation work in the hut involves logging and saving everything from decay. | 0:42:13 | 0:42:18 | |
It's a £4 million project that most people will never get to experience. | 0:42:18 | 0:42:24 | |
I've had a slightly uneasy day. | 0:42:28 | 0:42:31 | |
I'm not sure what I think | 0:42:31 | 0:42:33 | |
about the effort to preserve the huts all the way down here. | 0:42:33 | 0:42:38 | |
Because on the one hand, I know the huts have to be preserved, | 0:42:38 | 0:42:41 | |
and it's the most incredible effort that goes into it. | 0:42:41 | 0:42:44 | |
But preserving it for who? | 0:42:45 | 0:42:47 | |
And I'm struggling to come to terms with the validity of doing that. | 0:42:49 | 0:42:55 | |
Especially the fact that they've preserved all of these pieces. | 0:42:56 | 0:43:01 | |
They've spent many, many hours, | 0:43:01 | 0:43:03 | |
and now it's going back into the same environment | 0:43:03 | 0:43:06 | |
that started destroying them in the first place. | 0:43:06 | 0:43:09 | |
It seems like a vicious circle to me. | 0:43:09 | 0:43:11 | |
I think I need to sleep on this one. | 0:43:15 | 0:43:17 | |
Good night. | 0:43:17 | 0:43:19 | |
-All of those Rising Suns can go. -So where do they all live? -They're all up there. -So on that bare... | 0:43:52 | 0:43:59 | |
Today, Lizzie's returning some items to the kitchen that were taken away to be conserved over the winter. | 0:43:59 | 0:44:05 | |
-Such beautiful bottles, these. -They are. | 0:44:05 | 0:44:08 | |
Do you think the right decision was made to preserve it here, in situ? | 0:44:08 | 0:44:12 | |
I do, and, I mean, I suppose I work to preserve that first memory I have of walking through that door. | 0:44:12 | 0:44:18 | |
And although not many people get to experience that, nevertheless, people do. | 0:44:18 | 0:44:24 | |
A lot of historic sites are like that. | 0:44:24 | 0:44:26 | |
We had the choice between actively contributing to the destruction of this site | 0:44:26 | 0:44:31 | |
by picking it up and taking it somewhere else, or saying, | 0:44:31 | 0:44:35 | |
"Actually, we think that we can do something here to preserve it." | 0:44:35 | 0:44:38 | |
OK, this is 12. | 0:44:38 | 0:44:40 | |
It just strikes me as slightly strange in some ways that you're | 0:44:40 | 0:44:43 | |
taking those items from effectively a controlled environment back into an uncontrolled environment. | 0:44:43 | 0:44:49 | |
-Is that true? -In some ways it's an uncontrolled environment, | 0:44:49 | 0:44:53 | |
but when you think about how objects deteriorate, we've got some big things on our side here. | 0:44:53 | 0:44:57 | |
It's really cold - that slows down deterioration. | 0:44:57 | 0:45:00 | |
So for 11 months of the year, nothing much is going on. | 0:45:00 | 0:45:04 | |
It's also dark a lot of the time, and inside this building there's not much light. | 0:45:04 | 0:45:08 | |
So light is a key factor of damage. | 0:45:08 | 0:45:10 | |
It's the beginning of my fourth day at the hut and I'm settling into the Cape Evans way of life. | 0:45:13 | 0:45:19 | |
One of the most common questions I get asked about expeditions is, | 0:45:19 | 0:45:24 | |
"How do you go to the loo?" And I have to admit I was wondering that about Scott and his men. | 0:45:24 | 0:45:29 | |
And this is actually their loo block. | 0:45:29 | 0:45:31 | |
Out in the front, beautiful view if you ask me. | 0:45:31 | 0:45:34 | |
If you look in there you'll see it's full of snow now, | 0:45:34 | 0:45:38 | |
but actually, not too bad considering. | 0:45:38 | 0:45:40 | |
But what's amazing is that they remained segregated out here. | 0:45:40 | 0:45:45 | |
There was the officers' side and the men's side. | 0:45:45 | 0:45:49 | |
Today they've got pretty strict protocol out here. | 0:45:49 | 0:45:52 | |
It's all about keeping Antarctica this pristine clean environment. | 0:45:52 | 0:45:56 | |
So today, for example, you have to poo in a bag. | 0:45:56 | 0:46:00 | |
And that's all bagged up and then put on a ship | 0:46:00 | 0:46:03 | |
and sent back to New Zealand. | 0:46:03 | 0:46:04 | |
And apparently it costs a couple of quid per kilo, | 0:46:04 | 0:46:08 | |
so that is very expensive poo. | 0:46:08 | 0:46:11 | |
I'm really starting to imagine what it must have been like | 0:46:16 | 0:46:19 | |
for those men, completely isolated here for two years. | 0:46:19 | 0:46:23 | |
So quiet. | 0:46:29 | 0:46:30 | |
I think for me it's moments like this that I start... | 0:46:34 | 0:46:38 | |
thinking about home. It's beautiful, | 0:46:38 | 0:46:40 | |
but you can't help but think about what you've left behind. | 0:46:40 | 0:46:45 | |
Scott had only just married. He had a young boy about the same age | 0:46:45 | 0:46:49 | |
as my little boy, Ludo. | 0:46:49 | 0:46:51 | |
I can't imagine leaving them | 0:46:51 | 0:46:53 | |
for two, three years. | 0:46:53 | 0:46:55 | |
You've got those iconic photographs in the hut of him sitting at the map | 0:46:57 | 0:47:01 | |
table, and they're behind. They're all these photographs. | 0:47:01 | 0:47:04 | |
For me they're very poignant, | 0:47:04 | 0:47:06 | |
of the family that he's left behind. | 0:47:06 | 0:47:09 | |
I notice that's what's missing - | 0:47:12 | 0:47:14 | |
the pictures have gone. | 0:47:14 | 0:47:17 | |
Perhaps they were returned to his family | 0:47:17 | 0:47:20 | |
or were taken by trophy hunters decades ago. | 0:47:20 | 0:47:23 | |
But the heart has gone out of this little cabin. | 0:47:23 | 0:47:26 | |
Before I set out to the Antarctic, I visited the Scott Polar Research Institute in Cambridge, | 0:47:28 | 0:47:34 | |
where I came across a series of letters that have never been published | 0:47:34 | 0:47:38 | |
and have never appeared on television before. | 0:47:38 | 0:47:41 | |
They were the private letters of Scott to his wife Kathleen, | 0:47:41 | 0:47:45 | |
and have always been considered too personal to make public. | 0:47:45 | 0:47:49 | |
But I think glimpsing the personal Scott is key to knowing the man... | 0:47:49 | 0:47:53 | |
..and the custodians agreed to let me see them. | 0:47:54 | 0:47:56 | |
My own darling, | 0:47:56 | 0:47:59 | |
perhaps it needed this separation to show how much you are to me. | 0:47:59 | 0:48:03 | |
Does this letter express a little of what it will mean to me | 0:48:03 | 0:48:07 | |
to see your sweet face again? It can only express a little. | 0:48:07 | 0:48:11 | |
The thing that cannot be said too often, the amazing fact | 0:48:11 | 0:48:15 | |
is that I love you so much | 0:48:15 | 0:48:17 | |
the world for me must centre about you. | 0:48:17 | 0:48:20 | |
This tells a very different tale. | 0:48:20 | 0:48:22 | |
Yes, it does. This is a series of love letters, essentially. | 0:48:22 | 0:48:25 | |
You say love letters. I think of Scott as being a stiff-upper-lipped | 0:48:25 | 0:48:31 | |
officer in the Navy who wouldn't show their emotions, | 0:48:31 | 0:48:35 | |
almost emotionally barren. | 0:48:35 | 0:48:37 | |
That was his public face. This is the private man, the family man. | 0:48:37 | 0:48:41 | |
It's clear that Scott adored his wife. | 0:48:41 | 0:48:44 | |
By all accounts, Kathleen Bruce was both striking and charming. | 0:48:44 | 0:48:48 | |
She was a talented artist, having trained under Rodin, | 0:48:48 | 0:48:52 | |
and intellectually she was every bit Scott's equal. | 0:48:52 | 0:48:56 | |
Setting out on the expedition, Scott's only regret appears to have | 0:48:56 | 0:49:00 | |
been leaving behind his wife and his son, Peter, not yet a year old. | 0:49:00 | 0:49:05 | |
"Dear heart, all this in one sense seems to be | 0:49:05 | 0:49:08 | |
"asking you to sacrifice your own interest and the Boodle Doo's..." | 0:49:08 | 0:49:12 | |
And of course Boodle Doo is Peter, her son, their nickname for him. | 0:49:12 | 0:49:15 | |
"..to the expedition. But I know you would wish it that way. | 0:49:15 | 0:49:18 | |
"So we act straight to ourselves and the world." | 0:49:18 | 0:49:21 | |
I think that's very telling. | 0:49:21 | 0:49:24 | |
I love you as much as ever and wish I could get a glimpse of you. | 0:49:24 | 0:49:28 | |
I have this little red Morocco case with your picture in front and the Boodle Doo at the back. | 0:49:28 | 0:49:33 | |
Give him my best love and ever so many kisses... | 0:49:33 | 0:49:37 | |
My dearest dearest, here is... My own darling, I am writing to you... | 0:49:37 | 0:49:41 | |
My sweet lady, I told you we should be cut off from... | 0:49:41 | 0:49:45 | |
Some of them are intensely personal, and I think it's really interesting | 0:49:45 | 0:49:49 | |
to see how he feels he can write completely frankly to Kathleen | 0:49:49 | 0:49:55 | |
in a way he can't, perhaps, express himself to other members | 0:49:55 | 0:49:59 | |
of his team actually down in the Antarctic. | 0:49:59 | 0:50:02 | |
Being here in the Antarctic, things are starting to fall into place. | 0:50:05 | 0:50:10 | |
I now see Scott less as an iconic figure | 0:50:10 | 0:50:13 | |
and increasingly as something more human. | 0:50:13 | 0:50:16 | |
Scott was an animal lover. | 0:50:19 | 0:50:21 | |
He was fond of the ponies and dogs on the expedition. | 0:50:21 | 0:50:25 | |
There are signs of animals everywhere, but just outside the hut, buried in the snow, | 0:50:25 | 0:50:31 | |
was something I hadn't expected to find. | 0:50:31 | 0:50:34 | |
And behind here is one of the expedition dogs. | 0:50:34 | 0:50:38 | |
But you can still its collar. | 0:50:39 | 0:50:41 | |
That is unbelievable. Look at that! | 0:50:41 | 0:50:44 | |
-Does that chain go to the collar? -It does. So it's still chained up. | 0:50:45 | 0:50:49 | |
I can't believe there is a dog with a collar still on it chained up here. | 0:50:49 | 0:50:53 | |
Because, for me, the dogs, you know that was one of the key differences between Scott and Amundsen. | 0:50:53 | 0:50:58 | |
This for me is a really significant part of the heritage of this site. | 0:50:58 | 0:51:02 | |
It was known that dog-sledding was an effective means of polar transport, | 0:51:02 | 0:51:06 | |
but Scott had chosen to rely on a number of different methods, | 0:51:06 | 0:51:11 | |
landing with 17 Siberian ponies. | 0:51:11 | 0:51:13 | |
They quickly proved unreliable. | 0:51:13 | 0:51:16 | |
Six had perished on this short depot laying journey. | 0:51:16 | 0:51:18 | |
This put into real doubt how useful they were going to be | 0:51:18 | 0:51:23 | |
the following spring for their great assault south. | 0:51:23 | 0:51:26 | |
But also, significantly, they were forced to lay the final depot | 0:51:26 | 0:51:30 | |
30 miles short of their proposed point. | 0:51:30 | 0:51:33 | |
It was 30 miles that would make the difference between life and death. | 0:51:34 | 0:51:39 | |
Scott was still fretful over the telegram he'd received on the outward journey, | 0:51:40 | 0:51:45 | |
but had no way of tracking the Norwegian expedition. | 0:51:45 | 0:51:49 | |
On the 8th February, the scientific party that had taken | 0:51:49 | 0:51:52 | |
the ship out East suddenly returned with shocking news. | 0:51:52 | 0:51:57 | |
While over here, they'd actually bumped | 0:51:58 | 0:52:00 | |
into the Norwegian Roald Amundsen. | 0:52:00 | 0:52:02 | |
He had his ship, The Fram, dogs, many men. | 0:52:02 | 0:52:05 | |
Suddenly, that telegram made complete sense. | 0:52:05 | 0:52:09 | |
They were heading south, too. As soon as winter was over, | 0:52:09 | 0:52:13 | |
they would also be heading for exactly the same goal. | 0:52:13 | 0:52:17 | |
The race was on. | 0:52:17 | 0:52:19 | |
Scott had chosen ponies, believing that it was impossible to get large numbers of dogs to Antarctica. | 0:52:21 | 0:52:27 | |
Amundsen, it seemed, had no such concerns, | 0:52:27 | 0:52:30 | |
and had landed with over 100 dogs. | 0:52:30 | 0:52:33 | |
There is no doubt that Amundsen's plan is a very serious menace to ours. | 0:52:37 | 0:52:42 | |
I never thought he could have got so many dogs safely to the ice. | 0:52:46 | 0:52:50 | |
His plan for running them seems excellent. | 0:52:50 | 0:52:52 | |
But above and beyond all, he can start his journey early in the season - | 0:52:56 | 0:53:01 | |
an impossible condition with ponies. | 0:53:01 | 0:53:03 | |
Nevertheless, there was no way of changing course, and Scott was committed to working with | 0:53:10 | 0:53:14 | |
the Siberian ponies he'd brought and had stables built along the outside of the hut to house them. | 0:53:14 | 0:53:20 | |
A century on, and the stables are still throwing up surprises. | 0:53:20 | 0:53:24 | |
Oh, that smell! | 0:53:30 | 0:53:32 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:53:32 | 0:53:34 | |
Oh, it smells like old milk! | 0:53:34 | 0:53:36 | |
It's a sledging... | 0:53:38 | 0:53:40 | |
ration bag, one of the cotton bags that they used. | 0:53:40 | 0:53:44 | |
I think that's either cheese or butter. | 0:53:44 | 0:53:48 | |
I think you've got the world's oldest pound of butter there, Ben! | 0:53:48 | 0:53:53 | |
-Wow. -Look... It's... | 0:53:55 | 0:53:57 | |
-Can you see it? -Yeah. -It's got Fern Leaf written on the label. | 0:53:57 | 0:54:01 | |
It's part of a supplies they brought out from New Zealand en route. | 0:54:01 | 0:54:06 | |
It's very rancid butter, 100-year-old butter. | 0:54:06 | 0:54:10 | |
We dug this up from under one of the bays here in the stables | 0:54:10 | 0:54:14 | |
and it's more likely that perhaps it got forgotten about or dropped | 0:54:14 | 0:54:18 | |
under some scoria over it, or snow, | 0:54:18 | 0:54:20 | |
and then it was lost to time until we were in here excavating. | 0:54:20 | 0:54:25 | |
But it certainly hasn't fared well over that 100 years, by the smell of it. | 0:54:25 | 0:54:28 | |
Food items are among the most intriguing things that Scott left behind, | 0:54:31 | 0:54:35 | |
partly because they give us a glimpse into the brands and tastes of Edwardian England, | 0:54:35 | 0:54:39 | |
but also because they speak of the everyday lives of the men. | 0:54:39 | 0:54:44 | |
Most of what's in this is what's known as Bowers' Annex. | 0:54:44 | 0:54:47 | |
He was in charge of the stores and he built an annexe | 0:54:47 | 0:54:51 | |
on the side of the hut. It was made of packing cases. | 0:54:51 | 0:54:53 | |
These boxes, now being sent off for conservation, | 0:54:54 | 0:54:58 | |
are actually full of flour. | 0:54:58 | 0:55:00 | |
Yeah, if you think of artefacts being conserved, preserved, | 0:55:01 | 0:55:05 | |
I have this image of it being paintings or furniture. | 0:55:05 | 0:55:09 | |
And here we're doing flour. | 0:55:09 | 0:55:11 | |
Does it at least...? I mean, it's kind of strange, | 0:55:11 | 0:55:15 | |
-or is it not for you? -It's not strange for me. | 0:55:15 | 0:55:17 | |
I'm used to it. It's really interesting. | 0:55:17 | 0:55:19 | |
You just never know what you're going to get next when you walk into the hut, you know. | 0:55:19 | 0:55:24 | |
It could be a tool, it could be some food, | 0:55:24 | 0:55:26 | |
it could be a piece of clothing, and it's always interesting. | 0:55:26 | 0:55:30 | |
Little was known about the effects of high altitude on diet in 1911. | 0:55:30 | 0:55:34 | |
Although Scott carefully calculated rations, at 10,000 feet above sea | 0:55:34 | 0:55:38 | |
level, they were burning many more calories than they were consuming. | 0:55:38 | 0:55:42 | |
Scott and his men were literally starving. | 0:55:42 | 0:55:44 | |
From the food stuffs found in the hut, we now know that was not the case while they were here. | 0:55:50 | 0:55:56 | |
It's clear that meals were substantial, could run to several courses | 0:55:56 | 0:56:00 | |
and included the finer things that gentlemen of the expedition would have been used to. | 0:56:00 | 0:56:04 | |
This was part of Scott's strategy. | 0:56:04 | 0:56:07 | |
No matter what hardships might have to be faced, there would always be a good meal at the end, | 0:56:07 | 0:56:13 | |
while they were staying in the hut at any rate. | 0:56:13 | 0:56:15 | |
Scott's secret weapon to keeping up morale was Thomas Clissold. | 0:56:17 | 0:56:21 | |
Clissold was a talented 25-year-old cook | 0:56:21 | 0:56:24 | |
who could serve up a range of dishes more usually found | 0:56:24 | 0:56:27 | |
in a good restaurant, or improvise with the seals and penguins that came his way. | 0:56:27 | 0:56:32 | |
I don't know about you, but when I look at some of those Ponting photos of him, | 0:56:34 | 0:56:37 | |
he has quite a contemporary look about him. His hair was quite short, | 0:56:37 | 0:56:40 | |
little bit of almost a goatee going on. He looks quite modern. | 0:56:40 | 0:56:44 | |
He does look pretty cool, actually pretty hot! | 0:56:44 | 0:56:48 | |
Which can't be said for all of them! | 0:56:48 | 0:56:50 | |
But Clissold was more than just a good cook. | 0:56:50 | 0:56:52 | |
He was also something of a mechanic, begging wires and batteries | 0:56:52 | 0:56:56 | |
from around the hut to create his own gadgets. | 0:56:56 | 0:56:59 | |
He'd rigged up this really cool alarm for working out when the bread dough had risen. | 0:56:59 | 0:57:05 | |
As it rose it hit a lever which kind of went up to a switch | 0:57:05 | 0:57:08 | |
and made this alarm ring, and then if that wasn't enough, then a light would start blinking | 0:57:08 | 0:57:12 | |
above his bed, and so the whole thing was set up so he could have a nap while the bread was rising. | 0:57:12 | 0:57:18 | |
Thomas Clissold made such an impression with his gadgets | 0:57:18 | 0:57:21 | |
that he found himself being awarded the greatest honour of all. | 0:57:21 | 0:57:24 | |
Scott had been working on an innovation. | 0:57:24 | 0:57:27 | |
He'd decided to experiment with new technology and had brought with him three motorised sledges. | 0:57:27 | 0:57:33 | |
Seeing Clissold's skill with gadgets, Scott asked him to join the team working with the sledges, which | 0:57:33 | 0:57:39 | |
would mean, in the spring time, leaving his kitchen and heading south with the polar party. | 0:57:39 | 0:57:45 | |
For an unranked 25-year-old cook, it was the chance of a lifetime. | 0:57:46 | 0:57:51 | |
And for me, it's proof that Scott was anything but blind to the talent around him, wherever it lay. | 0:57:52 | 0:57:59 | |
Each year as winter approaches, | 0:58:15 | 0:58:17 | |
the sea begins to freeze | 0:58:17 | 0:58:19 | |
and the solid mass of Antarctica doubles in size. | 0:58:19 | 0:58:23 | |
In 1911, as the sea froze, the Terra Nova had to leave. | 0:58:25 | 0:58:29 | |
As the ship would not be able to return until the following summer, | 0:58:29 | 0:58:32 | |
the men left behind were now cut off from the rest of the world. | 0:58:32 | 0:58:37 | |
With no way of restocking, Scott had to ensure that a catastrophic fire | 0:58:40 | 0:58:45 | |
in the hut wouldn't destroy everything they had. | 0:58:45 | 0:58:48 | |
He decided to scatter hoards of food and fuel in small clusters | 0:58:49 | 0:58:53 | |
on the hillside above the hut, and, a century on, many are still here. | 0:58:53 | 0:58:58 | |
Look at this! | 0:59:01 | 0:59:03 | |
I mean, this looks... this looks fresh! | 0:59:05 | 0:59:08 | |
It looks like lentils. | 0:59:10 | 0:59:11 | |
The detective in me is returning now. I assume this is flour. | 0:59:16 | 0:59:21 | |
I could be wrong now. | 0:59:21 | 0:59:24 | |
Look at all of these. | 0:59:25 | 0:59:26 | |
No! | 0:59:29 | 0:59:31 | |
Look, look, look, look, look! | 0:59:32 | 0:59:33 | |
Huntley, that's got to be the Huntley and Palmer biscuits. | 0:59:35 | 0:59:38 | |
This is just incredible. | 0:59:38 | 0:59:40 | |
On April 23rd, the 25 occupants of the Cape Evans Hut have their | 0:59:47 | 0:59:51 | |
last sight of the sun before the 24-hour darkness of a polar winter. | 0:59:51 | 0:59:56 | |
It will be four months before they see the sun again. | 1:00:06 | 1:00:09 | |
The men make notes in their diaries | 1:00:09 | 1:00:12 | |
and busy themselves as best they can. | 1:00:12 | 1:00:14 | |
Sunday, and the inhabitants of the hut are occupied with their own affairs. | 1:00:16 | 1:00:21 | |
Ponting is reading an exciting love story. | 1:00:21 | 1:00:25 | |
Oates is studying his great hero Napoleon. | 1:00:25 | 1:00:28 | |
For myself, clothes washing is the order of the day. | 1:00:28 | 1:00:32 | |
When that is finished I will be sewing patches on underpants. | 1:00:32 | 1:00:36 | |
At breakfast we discussed Amundsen. | 1:00:38 | 1:00:41 | |
Most of those here consider he will reach the pole first if he's not driven out to sea. | 1:00:41 | 1:00:46 | |
On starry nights, I shall look at the Great Bear | 1:00:50 | 1:00:54 | |
and you will also look at it sometimes. | 1:00:54 | 1:00:57 | |
And I shall look at the moon | 1:00:57 | 1:00:59 | |
as it floods our snows with its silver light. | 1:00:59 | 1:01:03 | |
The point was raised as to what a man should do if he were | 1:01:03 | 1:01:06 | |
to break down on the polar journey, thereby becoming a burden to others. | 1:01:06 | 1:01:10 | |
Oates unhesitatingly and emphatically expressed the opinion that there was only one possible course - | 1:01:10 | 1:01:16 | |
self sacrifice. He thought that a pistol should be carried and that | 1:01:16 | 1:01:20 | |
if anyone breaks down, he should have the privilege of using it. | 1:01:20 | 1:01:24 | |
Perhaps the winter of 1911 on Cape Evans was best summed up by the one Norwegian on Scott's team, | 1:01:27 | 1:01:33 | |
the ski expert and diarist Tryggve Gran. | 1:01:33 | 1:01:36 | |
It is difficult to keep a diary. | 1:01:38 | 1:01:41 | |
One day is just as monotonous as the rest. | 1:01:41 | 1:01:43 | |
Under such conditions, weak nerves will either get stronger or crack. | 1:01:43 | 1:01:47 | |
There is so little happening. | 1:01:49 | 1:01:53 | |
The tedium is broken briefly on midwinter's day by a great party. | 1:01:54 | 1:01:58 | |
Whilst revelry was the order of the day within our hut, | 1:02:01 | 1:02:05 | |
the elements without seemed desirous of celebrating the occasion | 1:02:05 | 1:02:08 | |
with equal emphasis and greater decorum. | 1:02:08 | 1:02:12 | |
The eastern sky was massed with swaying auroral light, | 1:02:12 | 1:02:17 | |
the most vivid and beautiful display that I had ever seen. | 1:02:17 | 1:02:22 | |
It is impossible to witness such a beautiful phenomenon | 1:02:26 | 1:02:30 | |
without a sense of awe. | 1:02:30 | 1:02:32 | |
One of the most extraordinary events of that winter was a journey. | 1:03:02 | 1:03:07 | |
Through the dark and bitterly cold winter, few people travelled far from the hut at Cape Evans. | 1:03:07 | 1:03:13 | |
But one man couldn't be held back. | 1:03:13 | 1:03:16 | |
Edward Wilson was an artist, a doctor, a devoted Christian | 1:03:16 | 1:03:21 | |
and Scott's chief scientist. He was passionately committed | 1:03:21 | 1:03:25 | |
to making scientific discoveries at any cost. | 1:03:25 | 1:03:29 | |
Wilson wanted to be the first to bring the eggs of the emperor penguin back to Britain, | 1:03:29 | 1:03:34 | |
eggs that are only laid in the middle of the polar winter. | 1:03:34 | 1:03:38 | |
He was insistent on taking two men on a five-week hike | 1:03:38 | 1:03:42 | |
through polar storms in permanent darkness to Cape Crozier. | 1:03:42 | 1:03:46 | |
It was one of the most taxing, | 1:03:46 | 1:03:48 | |
extreme and hostile journeys ever undertaken in the name of science. | 1:03:48 | 1:03:53 | |
Thankfully, we're taking a faster route. | 1:03:59 | 1:04:02 | |
Nigel is coming to make a record of what remains, and I've taken the opportunity to join him. | 1:04:02 | 1:04:07 | |
I don't think there's any other way to describe this | 1:04:09 | 1:04:13 | |
other than a godforsaken place! | 1:04:13 | 1:04:15 | |
This is about as bleak as you can get. | 1:04:15 | 1:04:18 | |
Yeah, we're on a very exposed sphere here, on the edge of Ross Island. | 1:04:18 | 1:04:23 | |
It must have been absolute sheer hell to be here | 1:04:23 | 1:04:28 | |
in the middle of winter in 24-hour darkness, shivering. | 1:04:28 | 1:04:33 | |
Apsley Cherry-Garrard talked about | 1:04:36 | 1:04:39 | |
the fact you know it's bad when you get frostbite inside your sleeping bag. | 1:04:39 | 1:04:44 | |
It was so cold that the men's teeth began to crack, | 1:04:44 | 1:04:48 | |
and even though we're here in summer and in good weather, | 1:04:48 | 1:04:51 | |
this is easily the coldest, bleakest place we've encountered. | 1:04:51 | 1:04:56 | |
If I ever think I've had any hardships in my life, on any of my trips... | 1:04:56 | 1:05:01 | |
Pales into insignificance. | 1:05:01 | 1:05:04 | |
This is like hell on Earth, this spot here. | 1:05:04 | 1:05:07 | |
Cape Crozier is a truly desolate place. | 1:05:07 | 1:05:11 | |
But amazingly, there are still remains of the stone igloo that the three men built for shelter. | 1:05:11 | 1:05:16 | |
This looks pretty insignificant, but this, can you see the green canvas? | 1:05:18 | 1:05:23 | |
-Yes. Green? It looks white now. -They used this in the rock igloo | 1:05:23 | 1:05:27 | |
as a roof | 1:05:27 | 1:05:29 | |
with their sledges on top, | 1:05:29 | 1:05:32 | |
and the account was that when the big storm came in, | 1:05:32 | 1:05:35 | |
they started stuffing everything they could, | 1:05:35 | 1:05:38 | |
socks, bits of cloth, anything they could into the gaps in the rock | 1:05:38 | 1:05:44 | |
to stop the snow coming in. | 1:05:44 | 1:05:46 | |
But this was such a huge storm and it raged so hard, | 1:05:46 | 1:05:49 | |
they said the screaming was unbelievable, the noise. | 1:05:49 | 1:05:53 | |
And eventually they knew they were going to lose the roof | 1:05:53 | 1:05:58 | |
and the canvas went and here we had | 1:05:58 | 1:06:01 | |
the three men huddled in here in their sleeping bags, | 1:06:01 | 1:06:05 | |
in the open elements, with a storm raging. | 1:06:05 | 1:06:09 | |
Nigel is keen to record what remains to help build up his understanding of what Scott's team did. | 1:06:12 | 1:06:19 | |
For me, the trip has brought home a key point about this whole story - | 1:06:19 | 1:06:24 | |
it wasn't a dash to the pole. | 1:06:24 | 1:06:26 | |
Scott's British Antarctic Survey of 1911 was a scientific enterprise | 1:06:27 | 1:06:32 | |
supporting no fewer than 11 scientists. | 1:06:32 | 1:06:35 | |
These pioneers in biology, geology and physics measured the landscape, mapped skies, studied the climate | 1:06:35 | 1:06:42 | |
and returned discoveries for analysis at home, including the eggs of the emperor penguin. | 1:06:42 | 1:06:48 | |
I really can't help but think that this can't have helped their cause. | 1:06:52 | 1:06:56 | |
Bowers and Wilson, | 1:06:56 | 1:06:58 | |
you know, two men that perished in the tent with Captain Scott, | 1:06:58 | 1:07:02 | |
they can't have had time to recover from an experience like this. | 1:07:02 | 1:07:06 | |
Here are Bowers, Wilson and Cherry-Garrard about | 1:07:13 | 1:07:17 | |
to set out into the darkness of the polar winter for Cape Crozier. | 1:07:17 | 1:07:21 | |
This is their return just five weeks later. | 1:07:21 | 1:07:25 | |
And just three months after this photo was taken, | 1:07:25 | 1:07:28 | |
two of these men would accompany Scott to the pole. | 1:07:28 | 1:07:32 | |
The Crozier party looked more weather-worn than anyone I have yet seen. | 1:07:39 | 1:07:43 | |
It is for me now to note the strains that they have imposed upon themselves, | 1:07:47 | 1:07:51 | |
and the lessons that their experiences teach for our future guidance. | 1:07:51 | 1:07:56 | |
As the winter ended, all attention was focused on preparations for the journey to the South Pole. | 1:08:02 | 1:08:08 | |
Each day Scott carefully monitored the temperature, the weather and the first flickers of sunlight. | 1:08:08 | 1:08:14 | |
It's the famous stables in here. The smell is just extraordinary. | 1:08:18 | 1:08:21 | |
You really get a sense of what it must have been like. | 1:08:21 | 1:08:24 | |
But these were pretty frustrating times for Scott. | 1:08:24 | 1:08:27 | |
He knew that not far away, Amundsen was waiting with his much hardier dogs. | 1:08:27 | 1:08:32 | |
And even as the light returned after winter, they had to wait. | 1:08:32 | 1:08:36 | |
The ponies simply couldn't go out until it was warm enough. | 1:08:36 | 1:08:39 | |
Though it's certainly cold, it's only by spending the winter here at | 1:08:46 | 1:08:49 | |
Cape Evans, as Scott did, that you encounter the worst temperatures. | 1:08:49 | 1:08:54 | |
At minus 30, any exposed skin is vulnerable to frostbite in moments, | 1:08:56 | 1:09:01 | |
which presents a challenge when nature calls. | 1:09:01 | 1:09:04 | |
Diana has just made a discovery that suggests that this was | 1:09:04 | 1:09:08 | |
one problem that Scott's party had gone some way to solving. | 1:09:08 | 1:09:13 | |
That is hilarious. | 1:09:15 | 1:09:18 | |
Is that willy hole? | 1:09:19 | 1:09:21 | |
That is amazing! So they could go to the loo. | 1:09:21 | 1:09:24 | |
I've never seen anything like that in all my life. | 1:09:25 | 1:09:28 | |
I thought I'd seen everything. It even has a little closing strap so that you could...avoid drafts. | 1:09:28 | 1:09:34 | |
You wouldn't want to get frostbite there, would you? | 1:09:35 | 1:09:38 | |
OK, Cricket, shall I pop those down there? | 1:09:38 | 1:09:41 | |
Sure, we'll take a look at them. What have you got there? | 1:09:41 | 1:09:44 | |
Trousers with a willy hole. | 1:09:44 | 1:09:47 | |
-Very nice! -How are we going to pack that so we don't crush that? | 1:09:47 | 1:09:51 | |
THEY LAUGH | 1:09:51 | 1:09:53 | |
We pay these guys a lot of money. | 1:09:55 | 1:09:57 | |
Although the expedition was using basic clothing by today's standards, | 1:10:02 | 1:10:06 | |
it seems they were using the very best available. | 1:10:06 | 1:10:09 | |
Much of the clothing left here in the hut was specially designed by companies like Burberry and Jaeger. | 1:10:09 | 1:10:15 | |
This project has revealed that the clothing of 1911, being of entirely natural fibres, | 1:10:16 | 1:10:21 | |
compared surprisingly well with modern counterparts at keeping out the cold. | 1:10:21 | 1:10:25 | |
Where Scott suffered was in carrying the bedding. | 1:10:28 | 1:10:31 | |
These 1911 reindeer sleeping bags are cumbersome and heavy | 1:10:33 | 1:10:36 | |
compared to modern sleeping bags, and doubled in weight once wet. | 1:10:36 | 1:10:40 | |
Wow, look at that. | 1:10:42 | 1:10:44 | |
An old tweed cap. | 1:10:44 | 1:10:46 | |
-No way, I've never seen that before. -Have you not? -No, It's fantastic. | 1:10:46 | 1:10:50 | |
It actually looks in quite good condition. | 1:10:50 | 1:10:53 | |
-It's gorgeous, yeah. I think Clissold would look good in this. -Oh, do you? | 1:10:55 | 1:10:58 | |
Clissold, the inventive cook, and the other 14 men selected | 1:11:01 | 1:11:04 | |
by Scott are now fully engaged in preparing for the journey south. | 1:11:04 | 1:11:08 | |
Sunday, October 8th, | 1:11:10 | 1:11:12 | |
about five, a telephone message from Nelson's igloo | 1:11:12 | 1:11:15 | |
reported that Clissold had fallen from a berg and hurt his back. | 1:11:15 | 1:11:19 | |
It appears that Clissold was acting as Ponting's model and that he dropped six feet onto a sharp angle | 1:11:19 | 1:11:25 | |
in the berg before he grew unconscious. | 1:11:25 | 1:11:28 | |
Tuesday, October 17th. | 1:11:29 | 1:11:32 | |
I have had to tell Clissold that he cannot go out with the motor party, to his great disappointment. | 1:11:32 | 1:11:37 | |
Hooper replaces him. | 1:11:37 | 1:11:39 | |
On the 24th October, the motorised sledges headed out without Clissold. | 1:11:41 | 1:11:47 | |
And it was over the next few days that 11 men, ponies and dogs, all set out for the pole. | 1:11:47 | 1:11:52 | |
The expedition had begun. | 1:11:52 | 1:11:55 | |
But it would be some time before those men left behind in the hut | 1:11:55 | 1:11:59 | |
would hear news of how they were getting on. | 1:11:59 | 1:12:01 | |
While his heavy equipment meant that Ponting was unable to photograph the journey south, Scott was. | 1:12:01 | 1:12:08 | |
He's been accused of being stubborn and old fashioned. | 1:12:08 | 1:12:11 | |
But what few people know is that be became a pupil of Ponting | 1:12:11 | 1:12:16 | |
so that he could photograph the journey south himself. | 1:12:16 | 1:12:19 | |
Amazingly, those pictures were lost and only recently turned up in an auction. | 1:12:19 | 1:12:25 | |
They've never been published before and are seen here | 1:12:25 | 1:12:28 | |
for the first time. | 1:12:28 | 1:12:30 | |
What they show shines a new light on Scott. | 1:12:30 | 1:12:33 | |
He took to his tutelage very well. | 1:12:34 | 1:12:37 | |
He learned from a master. | 1:12:37 | 1:12:39 | |
Here's an early photograph. | 1:12:39 | 1:12:41 | |
You can see see that there was a certain problem. | 1:12:41 | 1:12:44 | |
-Head cut off. -That's right. | 1:12:44 | 1:12:46 | |
All of a sudden we start seeing | 1:12:46 | 1:12:48 | |
Scott do different things from Ponting, and what happens is | 1:12:48 | 1:12:52 | |
that while Ponting is using the film camera, a whiteout occurs, | 1:12:52 | 1:12:57 | |
and Scott keeps taking the photographs. | 1:12:57 | 1:13:01 | |
Scott wanted to show action as it was occurring. | 1:13:01 | 1:13:05 | |
Having practised his craft at the hut, once on the expedition | 1:13:07 | 1:13:11 | |
to the pole it was Scott's chance to capture truly unique images. | 1:13:11 | 1:13:16 | |
Here we are on the great ice barrier, and there is the line of march. | 1:13:16 | 1:13:19 | |
With the infamous ponies. | 1:13:19 | 1:13:21 | |
With the infamous ponies, the sledges fully done | 1:13:21 | 1:13:24 | |
and the men trudging through a very heavy snow. | 1:13:24 | 1:13:28 | |
This photo is on the way to the South Pole. | 1:13:28 | 1:13:30 | |
-On the way. -It's amazing. | 1:13:30 | 1:13:32 | |
They had to create these huge ice walls. | 1:13:32 | 1:13:35 | |
Imagine finishing a day's march like you had, and then having to build | 1:13:35 | 1:13:39 | |
a six-foot ice wall to protect the ponies from the freezing wind. | 1:13:39 | 1:13:43 | |
I heard a story of Oates who was particularly fond of the ponies, that these walls would sometimes | 1:13:43 | 1:13:48 | |
tumble in the night. The winds were so strong, they'd knock them over. He'd go and rebuild them. | 1:13:48 | 1:13:52 | |
And apparently he had one pony that kept knocking it down. | 1:13:52 | 1:13:56 | |
It got really angry, and he'd rebuilt it up to eight times in the night. | 1:13:56 | 1:13:59 | |
-That's right. -That's dedication. | 1:13:59 | 1:14:01 | |
He was the last man in his tent because he was always building walls. | 1:14:01 | 1:14:05 | |
Captain Laurence Titus Oates loved the ponies | 1:14:05 | 1:14:09 | |
and understood them better than anyone on the expedition. | 1:14:09 | 1:14:12 | |
He's shown here to be one of Scott's most committed expedition members. | 1:14:12 | 1:14:17 | |
But Scott's pictures also give insight to his much debated leadership style. | 1:14:17 | 1:14:22 | |
Take a look at that. | 1:14:22 | 1:14:24 | |
They are manhauling for all their worth a sledge which weighs an awful lot. | 1:14:26 | 1:14:31 | |
So much has been made of Scott the divisionist, | 1:14:31 | 1:14:35 | |
if that's a word that I can use, but Captain Scott | 1:14:35 | 1:14:39 | |
who divided officers and men, | 1:14:39 | 1:14:41 | |
and they had their separate parts in the hut and even divided the loos, | 1:14:41 | 1:14:45 | |
and yet here it feels much more of a team, it feels much more intimate. | 1:14:45 | 1:14:51 | |
I'd agree with that. | 1:14:51 | 1:14:53 | |
I think all of these pictures show that everyone is moving together, | 1:14:53 | 1:14:58 | |
working together, to meet their goal. | 1:14:58 | 1:15:00 | |
I don't see any sense of division here at all. | 1:15:00 | 1:15:03 | |
The pictures show Scott's men working together. | 1:15:05 | 1:15:08 | |
It may be that the hut was divided, but for me | 1:15:08 | 1:15:11 | |
what these pictures reveal is a leader of a unified team | 1:15:11 | 1:15:15 | |
pulling as one, with a common goal. | 1:15:15 | 1:15:18 | |
Seven weeks after the party had left the hut, | 1:15:20 | 1:15:23 | |
the first news of the expedition began to arrive back at Cape Evans. | 1:15:23 | 1:15:27 | |
The motorised sledging team returned with the news that just 60 miles in, the vehicles had failed. | 1:15:30 | 1:15:36 | |
They'd been forced to abandon them. | 1:15:36 | 1:15:38 | |
But worse still, the dog sledding team returned from this point | 1:15:38 | 1:15:43 | |
with the news that Scott and his men had been stormbound for many days. This had a knock-on effect. | 1:15:43 | 1:15:47 | |
The ponies that they were relying on simply weren't going to make it up the glacier. They had to shoot them. | 1:15:47 | 1:15:53 | |
Scott and his men, without ponies, without dogs and without motorised | 1:15:53 | 1:15:57 | |
vehicles, would have to pull the sledges themselves. | 1:15:57 | 1:16:00 | |
They'd be manhauling the heavy sledges to the South Pole earlier than Scott had planned. | 1:16:01 | 1:16:07 | |
Those men left at the hut knew that Scott had to return by March | 1:16:20 | 1:16:25 | |
when the winter darkness would begin again and his rations would run out. | 1:16:25 | 1:16:30 | |
Until then, all they could do was wait. | 1:16:30 | 1:16:34 | |
By the middle of March, everyone in the hut knew that Scott's party should be returning. | 1:17:04 | 1:17:10 | |
Men became agitated and there were frequent false alarms. | 1:17:10 | 1:17:14 | |
Wind Vane Hill, right behind the hut, | 1:17:14 | 1:17:16 | |
is a perfectly positioned vantage point, | 1:17:16 | 1:17:18 | |
allowing a view directly south. | 1:17:18 | 1:17:21 | |
So they say that... | 1:17:22 | 1:17:23 | |
each evening a watchman would come up on top of this hill | 1:17:23 | 1:17:28 | |
and look due south for any sign of Scott's returning team. | 1:17:28 | 1:17:34 | |
When they went back into the hut there was complete silence, | 1:17:34 | 1:17:37 | |
everyone stopped what they were doing | 1:17:37 | 1:17:40 | |
in expectation of news. | 1:17:40 | 1:17:43 | |
25th March, 1912. | 1:17:47 | 1:17:49 | |
We have begun to worry about the fate of the polar party. | 1:17:51 | 1:17:55 | |
No one says anything, but you can see it in most of their faces. | 1:17:55 | 1:17:59 | |
When the watchman comes down from Vane Hill each night to report, | 1:17:59 | 1:18:03 | |
everything comes to a standstill in the hut | 1:18:03 | 1:18:06 | |
and every eye is fixed on him. | 1:18:06 | 1:18:08 | |
11th April, 1912. | 1:18:11 | 1:18:14 | |
I was standing outside the hut taking the temperatures when I heard someone shout, "The polar party's coming!" | 1:18:15 | 1:18:22 | |
I rushed into the hut, to the gramophone to get out the National Anthem to greet Scott. | 1:18:22 | 1:18:27 | |
I stood and waited long. | 1:18:27 | 1:18:30 | |
But no-one came. | 1:18:31 | 1:18:33 | |
19th April, 1912. | 1:18:39 | 1:18:41 | |
I had a fright today. | 1:18:41 | 1:18:44 | |
The stove was spluttering, the chimney pipe glowing red hot | 1:18:44 | 1:18:48 | |
right up to the roof, and outside a blizzard was blowing. | 1:18:48 | 1:18:53 | |
Suddenly, there was a bang at the door. | 1:18:53 | 1:18:55 | |
I stopped daydreaming and sat up and listened. | 1:18:55 | 1:18:59 | |
A wild idea rushed through my head. | 1:18:59 | 1:19:01 | |
Could the impossible have happened? | 1:19:02 | 1:19:05 | |
Could Scott have returned? | 1:19:05 | 1:19:08 | |
I rushed out of the hut into the blizzard. | 1:19:08 | 1:19:10 | |
Something loomed up and I ran towards it. | 1:19:10 | 1:19:15 | |
A big emperor penguin was paying us a visit. | 1:19:15 | 1:19:19 | |
It paid for its cheek | 1:19:19 | 1:19:21 | |
with its life. | 1:19:21 | 1:19:23 | |
By late October, exactly a year after Scott set out for the pole with ten men, | 1:19:29 | 1:19:35 | |
several of those same men now head off from the Cape Evans hut to attempt to find Scott's body. | 1:19:35 | 1:19:40 | |
Had the party failed, we would never have known how the story ended. | 1:19:41 | 1:19:46 | |
But by a chance in 100, | 1:19:46 | 1:19:48 | |
they find a tent almost buried after a winter in the snow. | 1:19:48 | 1:19:52 | |
It was here, 11 miles short of that final depot of food and fuel, | 1:19:55 | 1:20:00 | |
the depot that was originally supposed to be 30 miles further out. | 1:20:00 | 1:20:05 | |
Here inside the tent, Scott, the scientist and writer, | 1:20:05 | 1:20:10 | |
Wilson, and the great organiser Bowers... | 1:20:10 | 1:20:13 | |
..were found frozen. | 1:20:14 | 1:20:16 | |
They take Scott's diary, some exposed film that will later reveal | 1:20:21 | 1:20:24 | |
the faces of five men at the South Pole, one month after Amundsen. | 1:20:24 | 1:20:29 | |
This is the final diary that was on his body | 1:20:32 | 1:20:36 | |
when he was found in the tent. | 1:20:36 | 1:20:39 | |
This has lasted a whole winter out on the ice. | 1:20:40 | 1:20:44 | |
And here on this last page, "For God's sake, | 1:20:45 | 1:20:50 | |
"look after our people." | 1:20:50 | 1:20:51 | |
This was the only evidence as to how and why they perished. | 1:20:54 | 1:20:59 | |
The diary reveals that the mighty Evans was first to die. | 1:21:04 | 1:21:07 | |
We stopped, and seeing Evans a long way astern, we were alarmed, and all four started back on ski. | 1:21:10 | 1:21:17 | |
He was on his knees with clothing disarranged, hands uncovered | 1:21:19 | 1:21:22 | |
and frostbitten, and a wild look in his eyes. | 1:21:22 | 1:21:27 | |
He died quietly at 12:30am. | 1:21:27 | 1:21:30 | |
He dies here at the foot of the Beardmore glacier on 16th February. | 1:21:32 | 1:21:38 | |
And just a month later, on 15th or 16th March, | 1:21:38 | 1:21:42 | |
Oates dies here, his feet in tatters from frostbite. | 1:21:42 | 1:21:47 | |
Poor Titus Oates said he couldn't go on. | 1:21:49 | 1:21:51 | |
He proposed we should leave him in his sleeping bag. | 1:21:51 | 1:21:54 | |
That we could not do. | 1:21:54 | 1:21:56 | |
He struggled on and we made a few miles. | 1:21:56 | 1:21:59 | |
He slept through the night, hoping not to wake, but he woke in the morning. | 1:21:59 | 1:22:03 | |
It was blowing a blizzard. He said... | 1:22:03 | 1:22:06 | |
"..I am just going outside and may be some time." | 1:22:07 | 1:22:12 | |
He went out into the blizzard and we have not seen him since. | 1:22:13 | 1:22:16 | |
Perhaps the five men died because they were caught in some truly terrible polar storms. | 1:22:18 | 1:22:23 | |
Perhaps it was because they chose to take ponies | 1:22:23 | 1:22:25 | |
when dogs might have proved faster. | 1:22:25 | 1:22:28 | |
Or maybe they grew weak on low rations of food. | 1:22:28 | 1:22:32 | |
But there is another suggestion hinted at by Scott himself, that the fuel that was essential for heating | 1:22:32 | 1:22:38 | |
food and giving warmth ran out, something that mystified Scott, | 1:22:38 | 1:22:42 | |
but thanks to objects left behind, we may now have the answer. | 1:22:42 | 1:22:47 | |
This was a critical part of the story of Scott's last expedition. | 1:22:47 | 1:22:51 | |
One-gallon tins of paraffin. | 1:22:51 | 1:22:53 | |
They were sealed with these brass tops, and on the inside of them, | 1:22:53 | 1:22:58 | |
they had leather washers and they shrunk in the cold. | 1:22:58 | 1:23:03 | |
They'd arrive at one of their depots and they'd find these half empty. | 1:23:03 | 1:23:06 | |
That's right, and they couldn't understand why there was less fuel, and without that you're a goner. | 1:23:06 | 1:23:12 | |
There's been a lots of hypotheses, lots of theories | 1:23:12 | 1:23:15 | |
about why Scott might have died, what might have saved him. | 1:23:15 | 1:23:19 | |
But essentially, that little washer, that little piece of leather | 1:23:19 | 1:23:23 | |
could have meant the difference between life and death, really. | 1:23:23 | 1:23:26 | |
For something so small, it had a major bearing on the outcome. | 1:23:26 | 1:23:30 | |
In his last days, Scott assessed the reasons for what could now only end in tragedy. | 1:23:33 | 1:23:39 | |
Causes of the disaster are not due to faulty organisation, but to misfortune... | 1:23:39 | 1:23:43 | |
The loss of pony transport obliged the limits of stuff transported to be narrowed... | 1:23:43 | 1:23:48 | |
The weather throughout the outward journey... | 1:23:48 | 1:23:50 | |
We should have got through in spite of the weather... | 1:23:50 | 1:23:53 | |
But for the sickening of Captain Oates... Captain Oates... | 1:23:53 | 1:23:55 | |
And a shortage of fuel in our depots, for which I cannot account... | 1:23:55 | 1:24:01 | |
Finally, but for the storm which has fallen on us | 1:24:01 | 1:24:05 | |
within 11 miles of the depot... | 1:24:05 | 1:24:08 | |
Had we lived, | 1:24:08 | 1:24:09 | |
I should have had a tale to tell | 1:24:09 | 1:24:12 | |
of the hardyhood, endurance and courage of my companions | 1:24:12 | 1:24:17 | |
which would have stirred the heart of every Englishman. | 1:24:17 | 1:24:21 | |
These rough notes and our dead bodies must tell the tale. | 1:24:21 | 1:24:25 | |
It seems a pity, | 1:24:25 | 1:24:28 | |
but I do not think that I can write more. | 1:24:28 | 1:24:30 | |
For God's sake, | 1:24:33 | 1:24:36 | |
look after our people. | 1:24:36 | 1:24:38 | |
Somewhere beneath this ice shelf that's the size of France | 1:24:45 | 1:24:50 | |
are the bodies | 1:24:50 | 1:24:52 | |
of Evans, Oates, | 1:24:52 | 1:24:55 | |
Wilson, Bowers | 1:24:55 | 1:24:58 | |
and Captain Scott, | 1:24:58 | 1:25:00 | |
entombed in 100 years of snow and ice. | 1:25:00 | 1:25:05 | |
And almost in a beautiful irony, | 1:25:07 | 1:25:11 | |
as this ice shelf continues to move north... | 1:25:11 | 1:25:15 | |
..at some stage, their bodies will arrive at open water | 1:25:16 | 1:25:21 | |
and they will have completed their journey home. | 1:25:21 | 1:25:25 | |
I set out to the Antarctic with contrasting portraits of Scott in my mind. | 1:25:28 | 1:25:34 | |
On one hand he was the great British hero who never put a foot wrong. | 1:25:34 | 1:25:39 | |
On the other he was an uncommunicative failure. | 1:25:39 | 1:25:42 | |
As my time at Cape Evans runs out, | 1:25:45 | 1:25:48 | |
I realise that I've been surrounded by the answers the whole time. | 1:25:48 | 1:25:53 | |
Shackleton's hut was the hut of a man whose principle aim, | 1:25:55 | 1:25:58 | |
like Amundsen's, was to get to the South Pole. | 1:25:58 | 1:26:02 | |
But I now realise why Scott's hut feels so different. | 1:26:02 | 1:26:06 | |
This wasn't just the base for a polar hunt, it was so much more. | 1:26:06 | 1:26:11 | |
This was the base for a journey of scientific discovery. | 1:26:11 | 1:26:15 | |
This is where the science of climate study began in Antarctica. | 1:26:15 | 1:26:19 | |
And this is where information was gained that was so accurate that's it's still used today. | 1:26:19 | 1:26:25 | |
Scott was turned into a two-dimensional hero by people | 1:26:27 | 1:26:30 | |
who didn't fully understand what he came here to do. | 1:26:30 | 1:26:34 | |
By spending time here in the hut, | 1:26:34 | 1:26:37 | |
I can see that he was so much more than that. | 1:26:37 | 1:26:40 | |
This is the Royal Geographical Society in London, the place where Scott researched his adventures. | 1:26:47 | 1:26:53 | |
A century on and I've been asked to present my own conclusions. | 1:26:53 | 1:26:57 | |
Over the last century, Scott has been portrayed as a national hero | 1:26:57 | 1:27:03 | |
and a heroic failure. | 1:27:03 | 1:27:04 | |
I think both do him an injustice. | 1:27:04 | 1:27:07 | |
I think as we mark the centenary of his great expedition, | 1:27:07 | 1:27:12 | |
it's time to allow him to be a man - | 1:27:12 | 1:27:15 | |
a man of vision, a man of drive, | 1:27:15 | 1:27:18 | |
a man of passion, a man with faults | 1:27:18 | 1:27:22 | |
and a man with qualities that made other men want to follow him | 1:27:22 | 1:27:26 | |
to the end of the Earth. | 1:27:26 | 1:27:28 | |
APPLAUSE | 1:27:28 | 1:27:30 | |
I feel that in a wooden hut in the Antarctic, | 1:27:58 | 1:28:02 | |
I came about as close to Scott as is ever going to be possible. | 1:28:02 | 1:28:06 | |
I think Scott was a man of passion and drive | 1:28:06 | 1:28:09 | |
who wanted to be remembered. | 1:28:09 | 1:28:11 | |
I think he might be amused and perhaps a little humbled | 1:28:11 | 1:28:15 | |
to know that, a century on, his hut is cherished | 1:28:15 | 1:28:20 | |
along with the toothbrushes, test tubes, boots, | 1:28:20 | 1:28:24 | |
cufflinks and bottles of tomato ketchup, | 1:28:24 | 1:28:27 | |
and that it bears witness to the kind of man he was. | 1:28:27 | 1:28:30 | |
I don't think he'd be displeased by that at all. | 1:28:30 | 1:28:34 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 1:29:03 | 1:29:06 | |
E-mail [email protected] | 1:29:06 | 1:29:09 |