The Secrets of Scott's Hut


The Secrets of Scott's Hut

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I've been invited to join an extraordinary expedition

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to a place I've dreamed of visiting since I was a boy.

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Captain Robert Falcon Scott has been a hero of mine since before I can remember.

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Many books have been written about his race to the South Pole in 1911.

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But, a century on, new information is coming to light.

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Somewhere out in the Antarctic, Scott built a hut where his team could survive in complete isolation.

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When the hut was finally abandoned to the ice, 10,000 objects were left inside.

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Today, it's still there and I'm on my way to find it.

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Wow! That is incredible!

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Few people have been to the hut and it's never been fully studied, but now a unique six year project

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is in place, to forensically explore and conserve the hut and its contents.

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It's completely overwhelming.

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It's an extraordinary opportunity to see a part of Scott's world that's been lost for 100 years.

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At last, the secrets of Scott's hut, frozen in time for a century, are being revealed.

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Wow!

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We've just landed on a temporary sea-ice runway.

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This is an ocean under us now in this great big plane.

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Scott in his wildest dreams could never have envisaged that worldwide travel could be like this.

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The difference is that, for him, he would have had this slower acclimatisation.

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He would have been cracking through this ice.

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And I've just landed, and it's minus 20. It's bloody cold!

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Scott's ship, the Terra Nova, left Cardiff on 15th June, 1910.

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It took six months to reach McMurdo Sound in Antarctica.

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A century on, and I've covered the same distance a little quicker.

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Even today, getting to the hut is quite a challenge,

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and, even if you make it, access is strictly controlled.

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But Nigel Watson holds the key.

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I've been granted special permission to spend time with the most extreme conservation team on Earth.

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They're engaged in a six-year, £4 million project to save the hut

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from complete collapse into the polar wilderness.

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Because the hut lies in New Zealand's segment of the Antarctic, the expedition

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will depart from New Zealand's Antarctic scientific headquarters, Scott Base.

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PA SYSTEM: Hello, Scott Base, Scott Base...

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Nick and Toby to the comms room please, Nick and Toby to the comms room.

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It's only possible to visit the hut during the summer.

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For the winter months of ferocious cold and continual darkness,

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items are brought back to Scott Base to be worked on.

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I don't know where that came from.

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Diana Komejan and Cricket Harbeck are completing their winter work before heading back out to the hut.

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Many of the things they work on have not been looked at for 100 years.

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It's saying a medical supply box.

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We have not looked into it, so...

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-So this is the first time you've looked at this artefact?

-Yeah.

-How exciting!

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-It's very exciting. Here we go.

-Wow!

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First thoughts looking at this box, I imagine there's quite a lot of work that needs to go into this.

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Oh, this is a lot of work. We've got iron, we have some glass.

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Each of those materials is going to be treated a different way,

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so there's quite a few challenges in here.

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The conservators take every item, clean it, repair damage, re-fix peeling labels

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and arrest any rust and decay that threatens to destroy it.

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Supplied by...

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Burroughs, Welcome & Co., London.

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-Sodium...

-Diosulphate.

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-That's a treasure trove.

-Yeah. There's a mousetrap, that's funny.

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In their medical box?

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Apparently!

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To keep mice out of the medical box or to keep thieving fingers out?

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-Who knows?

-I can see how, for Cricket and Diana, conservation is also detective work.

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Through these objects, they are unpicking one of the great stories

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in the history of Antarctic exploration.

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Around the turn of the 20th century, world attention turned to the unmapped continent of Antarctica,

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and the question of who would be first to get to the South Pole.

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Stories of Antarctic exploration were filled with courage, endurance and tragedy.

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None more so than that of Captain Robert Falcon Scott.

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Everything being packed into this crate belonged to his expedition,

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and has now been repaired, stabilised or cleaned.

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As the winter's now over, it's time for these objects to be returned to the hut.

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Lizzie Meek is head of conservation.

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Her team have spent the winter working on these objects in the laboratory.

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For her, this is the most nerve-racking part of the process.

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So much work has been done on conserving them,

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and now this is the moment where they're probably, you know, going to get the most movement in their lives,

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and so we just want to make sure they're completely protected and well-secured on the journey out.

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These are some of the most valuable, precious, polar artefacts in the world that are about to be dragged

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for a couple of hours behind a bulldozer across Antarctica.

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Before we head off in the morning, Lizzie insists that there's one view

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every visitor should see before leaving Scott Base.

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It's so beautiful here.

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This is Castle Rock,

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an iconic landmark that appears many times in Scott's diaries.

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It's so different, I think, from some of those images I always had

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of blizzards and the tents slapping in the wind.

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And it's cold, don't get me wrong, it's cold today,

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but it looks like such a calm...

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happy place.

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It's got a big bite out there.

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It's funny, it's not until you look at a sign like that

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that you realise how far away we are from civilisation.

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But also,

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the fact that London and Oslo in Norway are the two places

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that are just about further than anywhere else in the world,

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the two main protagonists in this whole thing.

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Scott from England, Amundsen from Norway, came from the furthest-away place.

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The first hint that Scott had competition came during the sea journey south.

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Roald Amundsen, a Norwegian explorer,

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was believed to be heading for the North Pole in his ship, the Fram.

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But while Scott was en route south, he received an enigmatic telegram

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that simply read, "Beg leave to inform you, Fram heading Antarctic. Amundsen."

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It was the first hint of what the world would later call "the race for the pole".

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-How are you feeling?

-I can't wait to get out there.

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When I was invited to make this visit, I met up

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with Sir David Attenborough, a vocal campaigner on behalf of the hut and the places Scott went to.

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Well, for anybody who cares about the history of human beings,

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and who cares about the history of the human spirit,

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these are irreplaceable, wonderful, extraordinary places.

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You can sense, in a more powerful way than anywhere else on Earth,

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the spirit, the human spirit

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that drove Scott and his men to do the extraordinary, selfless, heroic things that they did.

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It's strange to think that this small expedition

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is what could preserve all of that for future generations.

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Nigel Watson first travelled across this ice a decade ago.

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It was on that journey that he fell in love with the hut

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and resolved to fully explore it, saving the hut and its contents from complete disintegration.

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The wind is the real enemy, as you know, in Antarctica.

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I've been in a situation where I've been in camp

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and we've had a storm that's blown severe winds for four, five days, where you can't get out of your tent.

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I must say, when the wind is really blowing and you're working around

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that hut, you'll find that you walk into that hut and it's a real sense of relief.

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Even 100 years later, it's a place of refuge.

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Scott's hut is on Ross Island, but connected to the mainland of Antarctica by a permanent ice shelf.

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We're travelling north, from Scott Base to Scott's hut at Cape Evans,

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the point where Scott was able to land the Terra Nova and establish his base for the expedition.

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We're nearly here. We're about to round Cape Evans

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and, as we pull into the bay,

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we're going see the hut.

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That's it, there. I can see the roof. Wow!

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We're going to pull up into Home Beach and it will be right in front of you.

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Careful there, yeah?

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This is amazing.

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You know when you've waited for a moment for so long?

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It's the hut!

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In this age of instant gratification,

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where you're used to getting on a flight and you're there,

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it's still taken me a week to get here.

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Look, from the pictures, all this sand and everything around.

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This must be one of the anchors.

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So all of this, everything around I see, is from the hut. This is all...

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It's all original.

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Yeah, absolutely, you see some of the remnants of sleds,

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a lot of detritus around the site that has been blown around.

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But you can see how the weather of 100 years has just nailed back that beautiful patina on the wood.

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-Can I go in?

-Absolutely.

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Few people get to step through this door, and fewer still spend more than a few moments here.

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I'm privileged to be spending a week exploring the hut.

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And what's more, as the hut has been inaccessible for the winter,

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we will be the first to step inside for many months.

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It's completely overwhelming.

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The hut, and every object in it, came on board the Terra Nova.

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This was to be the base for scientific work, everyday life, and great adventure.

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All part of Scott's plan for his two-year Antarctic expedition.

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I recognise places in here.

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Look, this...

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There's this fantastic photograph.

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And then this is the table, I imagine...

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The great picture of Scott celebrating his birthday.

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He must have been here, and the flags hanging...

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I assume behind here is where Scott was.

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This is just amazing!

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This has to be Scott's bunk.

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If I remember, there's a picture of him sitting here working, writing at his desk.

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It's all, it's all kind of falling into place.

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You feel their presence, you definitely feel

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those years of inhabitation.

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Wow!

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An hour later, a lone tractor makes its way around the headland,

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with six crates of conserved objects about to be returned.

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-BEEPING

-Pretty surreal, the beeping of a tractor,

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backing up some of the most priceless and important artefacts in polar history.

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Let's get going!

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-No rushing!

-OK, no rushing.

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Could you imagine if you were in a museum back in England,

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these would be handled SO delicately, white gloves,

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there'd probably be trolleys and pick-up trucks to do it,

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but out here, you know, it's just laborious.

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-Onto this table?

-Yes.

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All these supplies originally had to be unloaded, and here are all these tools going up the beach once again.

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It's like history repeating itself.

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These objects were first carried up this beach in January 1911.

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The Terra Nova had arrived in Antarctica, and Cape Evans

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was chosen as the best place to offload everything from the ship.

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A round trip to the South Pole of 1,500 miles on foot would take an entire summer, but until then,

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the hut would be a place to prepare, undertake scientific research, and wait out the oncoming winter.

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There has been a steady stream of cases, passing along the shore all day.

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The long, level beach has enabled Bowers to arrange his stores in the most systematic manner.

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I tell you what, this is bringing back some memories.

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I've spent many hours man-hauling loads a little smaller than this one.

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Ooh, that is quite...

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This isn't my first visit to Antarctica.

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Two years ago, I took part in the first race to the South Pole for a century.

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It was an extreme challenge, but it only served to make me

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more interested in the trials Scott went through back in 1911.

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I'd hoped that this time I'd get to stay in Scott's hut, but I'm told there's no chance of that.

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The building has been preserved by the cold,

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and the warmth of sleeping bodies

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could defrost the hut and bring on decay.

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Instead, we're making camp on the beach.

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Not easy this tent stuff.

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HE SIGHS

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So, my first night camping back in Antarctica

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since I did my trek to the South Pole, but the wind is certainly beginning to pick up.

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Good to be back though.

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A world away from the frozen wastes of Antarctica, Scott remains an instantly-recognised name,

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but it seems we still can't agree on what kind of man he was.

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Clearly, for the first 60 years after his death,

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Scott was celebrated as the archetypal British hero.

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A national icon, played as such in the 1948 film by John Mills.

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9,000 feet up.

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The barrier and the glacier behind us.

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It should be level going now.

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All the way to our goal.

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Then in 1979, the writer Roland Huntford studied the records and came to a very different conclusion.

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Was Scott a hero? In my book, no.

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He was not a hero, because he was a failure.

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In his book, Roland Huntford makes a series of allegations,

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attacking Scott for serious weaknesses in his leadership style.

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He was responsible for the deaths of those five men.

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He led better men than himself to their death.

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The effect of Huntford's work was huge,

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and Scott's portrayal in popular culture changed dramatically.

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Good day, sir. Wheeeee!

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Get up, you bloody fool.

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By 1985, Scott was being portrayed as an irascible, impatient, unreasonable man,

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out of touch with his own team, obsessively chasing Shackleton's record, set three years earlier.

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We're falling further and further behind, and it simply won't do.

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Further behind who?

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Shackleton, who else?

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The explorer, Ranulph Fiennes, was so angered by this criticism,

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that he set about writing a book to counter Huntford's claims.

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Scott was not just organised, Scott was brilliant.

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Captain Scott would have gone huge places if he'd stayed in the Royal Navy.

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He was a brilliant bloke.

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Of course Scott failed.

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He wanted to be first at the Pole and he wasn't.

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What Scott did at the forefront of science was a huge success.

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Scott's expeditions produced more scientific information from Antarctica

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than all the other international polar expeditions of the first half of the 20th century.

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That is incredible.

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The historical facts are that Amundsen won the race.

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Personally, I prefer winners to losers.

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My second day in camp begins, and the weather has changed.

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A violent wind has ripped the outer layer of the tent in the night.

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I thought it was making a bit of noise.

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The problem is, out here,

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the wind's really come in.

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This is, well, probably gusting around 30, 35 miles per hour,

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and you can see what damage it can do.

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And in fact, to get the wind chill,

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you take a temperature, which I know today is about minus 15,

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and add it to the wind speed, so that's about minus 45.

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So exposed skin like this, at minus 45,

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a couple of minutes and you're going to get frostnip.

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That's where the top layer of the skin freezes,

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and after that, you'll get frostbite,

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which is what Scott's team suffered a lot from.

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So, I'll try and cover up.

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I'm going to check the rest of the tent.

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I dread to think what it would have been like in this weather in the clothes of 1911.

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There's one place where today's conservation team can get warm.

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A Portakabin serves as a place to eat, meet and escape the elements.

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We've drawn up a rota, and on our first full day in camp, I'm on breakfast duty.

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Well, this is a bit of respite from the wind.

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SHE LAUGHS

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It's a little breezy out there(!)

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It's also a very useful place to get my bearings.

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OK, here's my map of Antarctica here.

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We've got due south that way, north up this way.

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Here's the enormous continent of Antarctica.

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You've got the Ross Sea over here. But this area,

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coloured green on the map, this is the Ross Ice Shelf.

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This is the size of France, it's absolutely enormous.

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Captain Scott came in on the Terra Nova, landed on Ross Island.

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So this was basically the plan. They were going to go all the way across the ice shelf, 425 miles,

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an enormous distance, before turning up the Beardmore Glacier.

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That's 120 miles up to high altitude.

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This was going to be a really tough leg, where they would then have their final, 350-mile march

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to their goal, the South Pole.

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My next job is to provide a little light, so that the conservators' work can begin.

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The windows of the hut have been blocked by snow over winter,

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so, just as in Scott's day,

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someone's got to get up onto the roof and clear it.

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There's such a rich mine of stuff in here, there's so much to look at.

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I don't really know where to begin.

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But this coat here, with its ends here all weathered,

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and you look at this jumper, with all the salt stains on it,

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and I wonder whether that's from the ocean,

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but then I've got this image of them man-hauling and perhaps sweating, leaving all of these stains.

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It's amazing, when you first come into this hut it's very dark, and then as your eyes begin to adjust,

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you suddenly start making out some of these 10,000 items in here,

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and the closer you look, the more you uncover parts of Scott's story, I suppose.

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My first real surprise is that there's so much scientific equipment in the hut.

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It's everywhere.

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Clearly, this was far more than just a race to the pole.

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Nigel Watson is the executive director of The New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust.

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During a visit in 2004, he realised that the hut was close to collapse

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and resolved to save it, before it vanished into the snow.

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He initiated an extraordinary conservation project to preserve the hut in its original location.

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Lizzie Meek is Head of Conservation. Lizzie and her small team are two years into a six-year project

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to explore and save everything in the hut from disintegration.

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I was wondering about the salt that's kind of spilling out of this jar here.

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I've seen this before, and what happens is, the moisture

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gets absorbed by the salt and the salt expands, and then it's...

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See, it's pushed the lid.

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She selects objects to be returned to Scott Base, where they're cleaned, decay is arrested,

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peeling labels are re-stuck, and even century-old cheeses are stabilised.

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-Although, um... You want to have a sniff?

-Yeah, can I?

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Wow, that's ripe. That might be beyond ripe!

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-Yeah, yeah.

-Once work is complete, each object is returned to the hut,

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but sometimes, the conservation process throws up some surprises.

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When we were working on the safelight, we found that, not only had it been modified inside,

0:27:530:27:58

but there was this really cool little object inside it.

0:27:580:28:01

This is a photographer's magnifying loop.

0:28:010:28:04

So that was just hidden inside, was it?

0:28:060:28:08

Just sitting inside, that's right.

0:28:080:28:10

-That must be quite exciting for you, when you're uncovering these items?

-Oh, it's very exciting.

0:28:100:28:15

We get excited anyway, seeing the object be revealed through the process.

0:28:150:28:19

But to find something extra that no-one knew was there is special.

0:28:190:28:23

Slowly, this work is filling in all sorts of previously unknown details about Scott's expedition.

0:28:230:28:29

Scott kept a detailed diary, right up to his last day in a frozen tent out on the ice shelf.

0:28:310:28:36

I want to use this opportunity to piece together the diaries

0:28:360:28:40

with the discoveries in the hut, in the hope of establishing what kind of leader Scott really was.

0:28:400:28:48

'We took up our abode in the hut today.

0:28:480:28:51

'I found Bowers making cubicles, so instructed him to build a bulkhead of cases

0:28:510:28:55

'which shuts off the officers' space from the men's, I am quite sure to the satisfaction of both.'

0:28:550:29:01

"SS Terra Nova." So these obviously came from the ship, but they weren't just used for supplies.

0:29:030:29:08

This was very much a division.

0:29:080:29:11

This divided the officers and the gentlemen, the scientists from the men.

0:29:110:29:15

What this wall for me, this wall that's partially here is illustrating and highlighting,

0:29:150:29:22

is that all those photographs we see down in this part of the hut,

0:29:220:29:26

but here, right over here, it's the barest part of the hut.

0:29:260:29:32

This is where the men lived.

0:29:320:29:33

And yet they were integral to this expedition.

0:29:330:29:36

They were. These were the engine, if you like, the second tier of men that,

0:29:360:29:41

the people you don't hear the stories about, guys who had great Antarctic experience.

0:29:410:29:46

Day, Crean was a classic, Evans, who died on the Pole,

0:29:460:29:51

the strongest man of the party, they were all the men from the mess deck.

0:29:510:29:55

They're not the famous officers we know about.

0:29:550:29:58

We know that Scott's Norwegian rival, Amundsen, had no such class division in his hut.

0:29:580:30:05

Was it a sign of weakness that Scott, the British navy captain, segregated his expedition,

0:30:050:30:11

not only distancing officers from men, but distancing himself from everyone else?

0:30:110:30:17

Is this private cabin the reflection of a man divorced from his own team,

0:30:170:30:21

as Roland Huntford claimed, unwilling to consider any opinion but his own?

0:30:210:30:26

Scott's shore party was made up of 25 men, making it the biggest Antarctic expedition of its age.

0:30:300:30:36

It had five officers, including Captain Scott himself, 11 scientists and nine unranked men.

0:30:360:30:44

Though most of the objects in the hut were left by the officers, it's a space on the unranked side

0:30:460:30:51

of the divide that perhaps tells us most about Scott's character.

0:30:510:30:55

The kitchen is both intriguing and revealing.

0:30:550:31:00

And we've got all of these fantastic items here, some of which I recognise.

0:31:020:31:06

So Colman's, and I can see Heinz Baked Beans.

0:31:060:31:10

We've been having some of those out here ourselves.

0:31:100:31:13

But you've got some more unusual things like Real Turtle Soup. That's just extraordinary.

0:31:130:31:19

So, how much of this stuff was just off the shelf, effectively bought from a supermarket,

0:31:190:31:24

and how much was specifically for the expedition?

0:31:240:31:27

Well, a lot of it was off the shelf.

0:31:270:31:29

A lot of it was sponsored. A lot of sponsors came on board.

0:31:290:31:32

There's great publicity shots of those early products.

0:31:320:31:35

A lot of things were made

0:31:350:31:37

specifically for the expedition,

0:31:370:31:39

for example the Bovril Sledging Rations,

0:31:390:31:42

and other objects like Huntley & Palmers Biscuits. They were crafted

0:31:420:31:46

with a special formula for those biscuits for the expedition.

0:31:460:31:51

Scott knew that his expedition would be the focus of the newly-emerging newspaper industry.

0:31:510:31:56

He realised that manufacturers would contribute generously in return for shots like this.

0:31:560:32:02

Much of the contents of this well-stocked kitchen

0:32:020:32:05

have clearly been specifically supplied in return for publicity.

0:32:050:32:09

Scott was creating the concept of sponsorship.

0:32:090:32:13

These pictures were taken by Herbert Ponting.

0:32:150:32:18

He was one of Scott's truly innovative appointments

0:32:180:32:21

and was clearly considered incredibly valuable.

0:32:210:32:24

Apart from Scott himself, he was the only other person allowed his own space.

0:32:240:32:29

Herbert Ponting was a photographer with a name for capturing stunning images.

0:32:340:32:39

In the past, artists were employed to record expeditions by hand.

0:32:420:32:47

But Scott was media-savvy and the first explorer to fully realise the potential for photography.

0:32:470:32:53

He employed Ponting to document a great heroic adventure,

0:32:550:32:59

to engage the press and to fulfil sponsorship deals.

0:32:590:33:03

Scott was making sure the world saw his expedition his way.

0:33:030:33:08

Cricket, this is 8130...

0:33:140:33:16

The team are returning some of Ponting's items that were taken away to be worked on over winter.

0:33:160:33:21

Lizzie is responsible for ensuring that everything is returned undamaged

0:33:210:33:26

and replaced where it was found.

0:33:260:33:28

So this is Ponting's darkroom, which is a separate unit within the hut, isn't it?

0:33:280:33:33

It is. It's closed off. It was actually his bedroom.

0:33:330:33:35

He got his own room, where he had this bunk that folded back against the wall.

0:33:350:33:39

Lucky sod! Although it probably was a bit whiffy with all the chemicals.

0:33:390:33:43

I can imagine that, but probably good in the height of summer when there was no darkness here.

0:33:430:33:48

-Yes.

-It's probably the darkest room in there.

-Hence the name.

0:33:480:33:52

What really strikes me coming in here is, if you think about it,

0:33:560:34:01

Ponting had one of the biggest sections in the whole hut, to process these photographs.

0:34:010:34:07

It was very much a modern expedition.

0:34:070:34:11

They really relied on all of this media material that was going to go back to feed the newspapers,

0:34:110:34:18

and, I suppose, to please their sponsors.

0:34:180:34:22

And some of the most iconic polar images ever were created in this lab.

0:34:230:34:29

And not just still images.

0:34:310:34:33

This extraordinary film was developed by Ponting in his darkroom in the hut.

0:34:350:34:40

When it was premiered back in Britain, it caused a sensation.

0:34:400:34:44

People flocked to see it.

0:34:440:34:45

Ponting had turned Scott into a celebrity and a hero.

0:34:450:34:49

Having only spent a few hours in the hut, I'm already getting a real sense of Scott.

0:34:520:34:57

He imposed a class structure, a reflection of Edwardian society.

0:34:570:35:01

But he was also an innovator, using the latest techniques to get his story on to the news stands.

0:35:010:35:07

Scott was a man who understood how his world worked.

0:35:070:35:11

But there's something unavoidable that's not reflected in the diaries or the photographs.

0:35:110:35:17

The hut is a dark, shadowy place.

0:35:170:35:20

It's boxed in and slightly oppressive, which is strangely close to how Scott is sometimes described.

0:35:200:35:27

It's a strange feeling, accentuated by the fact that, outside the hut,

0:35:300:35:34

though it's still bitterly cold, we have bright sunlight right around the clock.

0:35:340:35:39

I don't think you ever get used to 24-hour sunlight.

0:35:440:35:47

I found this fantastic extract from Scott's diary.

0:35:470:35:50

It says, "Tonight is absolutely calm with glorious, bright sunshine.

0:35:500:35:55

-"Several people were sunning themselves at 11 o'clock at night."

-HE LAUGHS

0:35:550:36:00

Arriving in January, Scott knows that the 24-hour sunlight

0:36:020:36:06

is going to give way to 24-hour darkness in about 12 weeks' time.

0:36:060:36:10

So no sooner had they set up their comfortable hut here at Cape Evans, then they were off again.

0:36:140:36:20

One team of scientists headed due west, out to here.

0:36:200:36:24

Another team headed east, over there.

0:36:240:36:27

And Scott, meanwhile, and his team

0:36:270:36:29

begin laying depots along this line, up to about 120 miles.

0:36:290:36:35

This has food, fuel, everything they needed, ready for their great assault south.

0:36:350:36:40

But Scott's photographer, Ponting, had a journey of his own in mind.

0:36:470:36:51

He wanted to travel 12 miles around Ross Island to Cape Royds,

0:36:510:36:55

to photograph the hut left behind

0:36:550:36:57

by the famous explorer Ernest Shackleton just three years earlier.

0:36:570:37:02

He was keen to see how the famous hut compared with Scott's hut at Cape Evans.

0:37:050:37:09

Look! Shackleton's hut.

0:37:160:37:18

That's Royds there.

0:37:180:37:20

That is fantastic!

0:37:200:37:22

Shackleton was popular, with an informal style of leadership.

0:37:220:37:27

In 1907, he'd got closer to the pole than anyone else.

0:37:270:37:31

His expedition was considered the greatest feat of polar exploration.

0:37:310:37:36

And as arch-rival, Scott was obsessed by him.

0:37:360:37:39

It has a really homely air to it, this hut.

0:37:570:38:03

It's still got name tags on some of these socks here.

0:38:160:38:18

Reminds me of school.

0:38:180:38:21

It definitely has... a completely different feel

0:38:230:38:30

to Scott's hut at Cape Evans.

0:38:300:38:32

It feels much more...

0:38:330:38:36

Well it feels much less divided, for a start.

0:38:360:38:39

There's a little cubicle, curtains that you can close behind,

0:38:390:38:42

but it feels like they were one, rather than a divided party.

0:38:420:38:47

And coming in here now...

0:38:490:38:50

..I'm loath to admit it, but I think I would prefer to have been on Shackleton's team than Scott's.

0:38:520:38:57

It looks like they had a happier time.

0:38:570:38:59

I don't know if that's because of history. History is ingrained within the huts.

0:38:590:39:04

If I think now back to Cape Evans, it's just steeped in tragedy, but is that because we know the outcome?

0:39:040:39:10

Would it have had that feeling had I not known the whole story?

0:39:100:39:15

I could quite happily spend a year here.

0:39:170:39:20

Just have to persuade my wife.

0:39:210:39:24

But it's what outside the hut that really caught Ponting's attention.

0:39:270:39:31

Eager to capture as much as possible for the first time, he spent days photographing the colony of penguins

0:39:500:39:57

here at Cape Royds, to amaze audiences back home.

0:39:570:40:01

And I must admit, a century on, nothing's changed.

0:40:050:40:08

It's still an amazing sight.

0:40:080:40:11

What an amazing place. Antarctica's like layers on layers on layers.

0:40:220:40:25

So today, we've got the fantastic heritage of Shackleton with his hut,

0:40:250:40:30

but then we've got a smoking volcano over there, the Barne Glacier,

0:40:300:40:33

a frozen ocean,

0:40:330:40:34

and as if that wasn't enough, we've got penguins behind.

0:40:340:40:38

It's incredible!

0:40:380:40:39

But back in 1909, Shackleton failed to get to the pole.

0:40:470:40:51

That goal was still open to Scott's 1911 expedition, down the coast at Cape Evans.

0:40:510:40:57

Scott's hut was rediscovered in 1947,

0:40:590:41:03

and first chipped out of the ice by a New Zealand expedition in 1960.

0:41:030:41:08

In the years following, occasional expeditions, happening upon the hut, took mementos and keepsakes.

0:41:080:41:16

The New Zealand government took action, insisting that all visits are accompanied

0:41:160:41:21

and severe penalties imposed on anyone removing artefacts.

0:41:210:41:24

Now, the Antarctic Heritage Trust is studying everything in the hut,

0:41:240:41:28

and new things are continually coming to light.

0:41:280:41:31

-Can you believe that?

-What, this little thing here?

0:41:310:41:35

Yeah, look, I'll bring it out.

0:41:350:41:38

-So what have we got here?

-I think we've got the smallest book in the building.

0:41:380:41:42

It's amazingly small!

0:41:420:41:44

It's one of these things we keep discovering.

0:41:440:41:47

It keeps giving up these secrets after 100 years.

0:41:470:41:50

Do you know what book it is?

0:41:500:41:51

We don't, but it looks like "Windsor"...

0:41:510:41:54

-The Merry Wives Of Windsor. That's Shakespeare.

-Pocket edition!

0:41:540:41:57

Just amazing. What would be the point of bringing a book this small?

0:41:570:42:02

Well, we don't know, but perhaps it was, you know,

0:42:020:42:06

tucked inside your jacket on your sledging journey.

0:42:060:42:09

It's so delicate and so small.

0:42:090:42:12

The conservation work in the hut involves logging and saving everything from decay.

0:42:130:42:18

It's a £4 million project that most people will never get to experience.

0:42:180:42:24

I've had a slightly uneasy day.

0:42:280:42:31

I'm not sure what I think

0:42:310:42:33

about the effort to preserve the huts all the way down here.

0:42:330:42:38

Because on the one hand, I know the huts have to be preserved,

0:42:380:42:41

and it's the most incredible effort that goes into it.

0:42:410:42:44

But preserving it for who?

0:42:450:42:47

And I'm struggling to come to terms with the validity of doing that.

0:42:490:42:55

Especially the fact that they've preserved all of these pieces.

0:42:560:43:01

They've spent many, many hours,

0:43:010:43:03

and now it's going back into the same environment

0:43:030:43:06

that started destroying them in the first place.

0:43:060:43:09

It seems like a vicious circle to me.

0:43:090:43:11

I think I need to sleep on this one.

0:43:150:43:17

Good night.

0:43:170:43:19

-All of those Rising Suns can go.

-So where do they all live?

-They're all up there.

-So on that bare...

0:43:520:43:59

Today, Lizzie's returning some items to the kitchen that were taken away to be conserved over the winter.

0:43:590:44:05

-Such beautiful bottles, these.

-They are.

0:44:050:44:08

Do you think the right decision was made to preserve it here, in situ?

0:44:080:44:12

I do, and, I mean, I suppose I work to preserve that first memory I have of walking through that door.

0:44:120:44:18

And although not many people get to experience that, nevertheless, people do.

0:44:180:44:24

A lot of historic sites are like that.

0:44:240:44:26

We had the choice between actively contributing to the destruction of this site

0:44:260:44:31

by picking it up and taking it somewhere else, or saying,

0:44:310:44:35

"Actually, we think that we can do something here to preserve it."

0:44:350:44:38

OK, this is 12.

0:44:380:44:40

It just strikes me as slightly strange in some ways that you're

0:44:400:44:43

taking those items from effectively a controlled environment back into an uncontrolled environment.

0:44:430:44:49

-Is that true?

-In some ways it's an uncontrolled environment,

0:44:490:44:53

but when you think about how objects deteriorate, we've got some big things on our side here.

0:44:530:44:57

It's really cold - that slows down deterioration.

0:44:570:45:00

So for 11 months of the year, nothing much is going on.

0:45:000:45:04

It's also dark a lot of the time, and inside this building there's not much light.

0:45:040:45:08

So light is a key factor of damage.

0:45:080:45:10

It's the beginning of my fourth day at the hut and I'm settling into the Cape Evans way of life.

0:45:130:45:19

One of the most common questions I get asked about expeditions is,

0:45:190:45:24

"How do you go to the loo?" And I have to admit I was wondering that about Scott and his men.

0:45:240:45:29

And this is actually their loo block.

0:45:290:45:31

Out in the front, beautiful view if you ask me.

0:45:310:45:34

If you look in there you'll see it's full of snow now,

0:45:340:45:38

but actually, not too bad considering.

0:45:380:45:40

But what's amazing is that they remained segregated out here.

0:45:400:45:45

There was the officers' side and the men's side.

0:45:450:45:49

Today they've got pretty strict protocol out here.

0:45:490:45:52

It's all about keeping Antarctica this pristine clean environment.

0:45:520:45:56

So today, for example, you have to poo in a bag.

0:45:560:46:00

And that's all bagged up and then put on a ship

0:46:000:46:03

and sent back to New Zealand.

0:46:030:46:04

And apparently it costs a couple of quid per kilo,

0:46:040:46:08

so that is very expensive poo.

0:46:080:46:11

I'm really starting to imagine what it must have been like

0:46:160:46:19

for those men, completely isolated here for two years.

0:46:190:46:23

So quiet.

0:46:290:46:30

I think for me it's moments like this that I start...

0:46:340:46:38

thinking about home. It's beautiful,

0:46:380:46:40

but you can't help but think about what you've left behind.

0:46:400:46:45

Scott had only just married. He had a young boy about the same age

0:46:450:46:49

as my little boy, Ludo.

0:46:490:46:51

I can't imagine leaving them

0:46:510:46:53

for two, three years.

0:46:530:46:55

You've got those iconic photographs in the hut of him sitting at the map

0:46:570:47:01

table, and they're behind. They're all these photographs.

0:47:010:47:04

For me they're very poignant,

0:47:040:47:06

of the family that he's left behind.

0:47:060:47:09

I notice that's what's missing -

0:47:120:47:14

the pictures have gone.

0:47:140:47:17

Perhaps they were returned to his family

0:47:170:47:20

or were taken by trophy hunters decades ago.

0:47:200:47:23

But the heart has gone out of this little cabin.

0:47:230:47:26

Before I set out to the Antarctic, I visited the Scott Polar Research Institute in Cambridge,

0:47:280:47:34

where I came across a series of letters that have never been published

0:47:340:47:38

and have never appeared on television before.

0:47:380:47:41

They were the private letters of Scott to his wife Kathleen,

0:47:410:47:45

and have always been considered too personal to make public.

0:47:450:47:49

But I think glimpsing the personal Scott is key to knowing the man...

0:47:490:47:53

..and the custodians agreed to let me see them.

0:47:540:47:56

My own darling,

0:47:560:47:59

perhaps it needed this separation to show how much you are to me.

0:47:590:48:03

Does this letter express a little of what it will mean to me

0:48:030:48:07

to see your sweet face again? It can only express a little.

0:48:070:48:11

The thing that cannot be said too often, the amazing fact

0:48:110:48:15

is that I love you so much

0:48:150:48:17

the world for me must centre about you.

0:48:170:48:20

This tells a very different tale.

0:48:200:48:22

Yes, it does. This is a series of love letters, essentially.

0:48:220:48:25

You say love letters. I think of Scott as being a stiff-upper-lipped

0:48:250:48:31

officer in the Navy who wouldn't show their emotions,

0:48:310:48:35

almost emotionally barren.

0:48:350:48:37

That was his public face. This is the private man, the family man.

0:48:370:48:41

It's clear that Scott adored his wife.

0:48:410:48:44

By all accounts, Kathleen Bruce was both striking and charming.

0:48:440:48:48

She was a talented artist, having trained under Rodin,

0:48:480:48:52

and intellectually she was every bit Scott's equal.

0:48:520:48:56

Setting out on the expedition, Scott's only regret appears to have

0:48:560:49:00

been leaving behind his wife and his son, Peter, not yet a year old.

0:49:000:49:05

"Dear heart, all this in one sense seems to be

0:49:050:49:08

"asking you to sacrifice your own interest and the Boodle Doo's..."

0:49:080:49:12

And of course Boodle Doo is Peter, her son, their nickname for him.

0:49:120:49:15

"..to the expedition. But I know you would wish it that way.

0:49:150:49:18

"So we act straight to ourselves and the world."

0:49:180:49:21

I think that's very telling.

0:49:210:49:24

I love you as much as ever and wish I could get a glimpse of you.

0:49:240:49:28

I have this little red Morocco case with your picture in front and the Boodle Doo at the back.

0:49:280:49:33

Give him my best love and ever so many kisses...

0:49:330:49:37

My dearest dearest, here is... My own darling, I am writing to you...

0:49:370:49:41

My sweet lady, I told you we should be cut off from...

0:49:410:49:45

Some of them are intensely personal, and I think it's really interesting

0:49:450:49:49

to see how he feels he can write completely frankly to Kathleen

0:49:490:49:55

in a way he can't, perhaps, express himself to other members

0:49:550:49:59

of his team actually down in the Antarctic.

0:49:590:50:02

Being here in the Antarctic, things are starting to fall into place.

0:50:050:50:10

I now see Scott less as an iconic figure

0:50:100:50:13

and increasingly as something more human.

0:50:130:50:16

Scott was an animal lover.

0:50:190:50:21

He was fond of the ponies and dogs on the expedition.

0:50:210:50:25

There are signs of animals everywhere, but just outside the hut, buried in the snow,

0:50:250:50:31

was something I hadn't expected to find.

0:50:310:50:34

And behind here is one of the expedition dogs.

0:50:340:50:38

But you can still its collar.

0:50:390:50:41

That is unbelievable. Look at that!

0:50:410:50:44

-Does that chain go to the collar?

-It does. So it's still chained up.

0:50:450:50:49

I can't believe there is a dog with a collar still on it chained up here.

0:50:490:50:53

Because, for me, the dogs, you know that was one of the key differences between Scott and Amundsen.

0:50:530:50:58

This for me is a really significant part of the heritage of this site.

0:50:580:51:02

It was known that dog-sledding was an effective means of polar transport,

0:51:020:51:06

but Scott had chosen to rely on a number of different methods,

0:51:060:51:11

landing with 17 Siberian ponies.

0:51:110:51:13

They quickly proved unreliable.

0:51:130:51:16

Six had perished on this short depot laying journey.

0:51:160:51:18

This put into real doubt how useful they were going to be

0:51:180:51:23

the following spring for their great assault south.

0:51:230:51:26

But also, significantly, they were forced to lay the final depot

0:51:260:51:30

30 miles short of their proposed point.

0:51:300:51:33

It was 30 miles that would make the difference between life and death.

0:51:340:51:39

Scott was still fretful over the telegram he'd received on the outward journey,

0:51:400:51:45

but had no way of tracking the Norwegian expedition.

0:51:450:51:49

On the 8th February, the scientific party that had taken

0:51:490:51:52

the ship out East suddenly returned with shocking news.

0:51:520:51:57

While over here, they'd actually bumped

0:51:580:52:00

into the Norwegian Roald Amundsen.

0:52:000:52:02

He had his ship, The Fram, dogs, many men.

0:52:020:52:05

Suddenly, that telegram made complete sense.

0:52:050:52:09

They were heading south, too. As soon as winter was over,

0:52:090:52:13

they would also be heading for exactly the same goal.

0:52:130:52:17

The race was on.

0:52:170:52:19

Scott had chosen ponies, believing that it was impossible to get large numbers of dogs to Antarctica.

0:52:210:52:27

Amundsen, it seemed, had no such concerns,

0:52:270:52:30

and had landed with over 100 dogs.

0:52:300:52:33

There is no doubt that Amundsen's plan is a very serious menace to ours.

0:52:370:52:42

I never thought he could have got so many dogs safely to the ice.

0:52:460:52:50

His plan for running them seems excellent.

0:52:500:52:52

But above and beyond all, he can start his journey early in the season -

0:52:560:53:01

an impossible condition with ponies.

0:53:010:53:03

Nevertheless, there was no way of changing course, and Scott was committed to working with

0:53:100:53:14

the Siberian ponies he'd brought and had stables built along the outside of the hut to house them.

0:53:140:53:20

A century on, and the stables are still throwing up surprises.

0:53:200:53:24

Oh, that smell!

0:53:300:53:32

THEY LAUGH

0:53:320:53:34

Oh, it smells like old milk!

0:53:340:53:36

It's a sledging...

0:53:380:53:40

ration bag, one of the cotton bags that they used.

0:53:400:53:44

I think that's either cheese or butter.

0:53:440:53:48

I think you've got the world's oldest pound of butter there, Ben!

0:53:480:53:53

-Wow.

-Look... It's...

0:53:550:53:57

-Can you see it?

-Yeah.

-It's got Fern Leaf written on the label.

0:53:570:54:01

It's part of a supplies they brought out from New Zealand en route.

0:54:010:54:06

It's very rancid butter, 100-year-old butter.

0:54:060:54:10

We dug this up from under one of the bays here in the stables

0:54:100:54:14

and it's more likely that perhaps it got forgotten about or dropped

0:54:140:54:18

under some scoria over it, or snow,

0:54:180:54:20

and then it was lost to time until we were in here excavating.

0:54:200:54:25

But it certainly hasn't fared well over that 100 years, by the smell of it.

0:54:250:54:28

Food items are among the most intriguing things that Scott left behind,

0:54:310:54:35

partly because they give us a glimpse into the brands and tastes of Edwardian England,

0:54:350:54:39

but also because they speak of the everyday lives of the men.

0:54:390:54:44

Most of what's in this is what's known as Bowers' Annex.

0:54:440:54:47

He was in charge of the stores and he built an annexe

0:54:470:54:51

on the side of the hut. It was made of packing cases.

0:54:510:54:53

These boxes, now being sent off for conservation,

0:54:540:54:58

are actually full of flour.

0:54:580:55:00

Yeah, if you think of artefacts being conserved, preserved,

0:55:010:55:05

I have this image of it being paintings or furniture.

0:55:050:55:09

And here we're doing flour.

0:55:090:55:11

Does it at least...? I mean, it's kind of strange,

0:55:110:55:15

-or is it not for you?

-It's not strange for me.

0:55:150:55:17

I'm used to it. It's really interesting.

0:55:170:55:19

You just never know what you're going to get next when you walk into the hut, you know.

0:55:190:55:24

It could be a tool, it could be some food,

0:55:240:55:26

it could be a piece of clothing, and it's always interesting.

0:55:260:55:30

Little was known about the effects of high altitude on diet in 1911.

0:55:300:55:34

Although Scott carefully calculated rations, at 10,000 feet above sea

0:55:340:55:38

level, they were burning many more calories than they were consuming.

0:55:380:55:42

Scott and his men were literally starving.

0:55:420:55:44

From the food stuffs found in the hut, we now know that was not the case while they were here.

0:55:500:55:56

It's clear that meals were substantial, could run to several courses

0:55:560:56:00

and included the finer things that gentlemen of the expedition would have been used to.

0:56:000:56:04

This was part of Scott's strategy.

0:56:040:56:07

No matter what hardships might have to be faced, there would always be a good meal at the end,

0:56:070:56:13

while they were staying in the hut at any rate.

0:56:130:56:15

Scott's secret weapon to keeping up morale was Thomas Clissold.

0:56:170:56:21

Clissold was a talented 25-year-old cook

0:56:210:56:24

who could serve up a range of dishes more usually found

0:56:240:56:27

in a good restaurant, or improvise with the seals and penguins that came his way.

0:56:270:56:32

I don't know about you, but when I look at some of those Ponting photos of him,

0:56:340:56:37

he has quite a contemporary look about him. His hair was quite short,

0:56:370:56:40

little bit of almost a goatee going on. He looks quite modern.

0:56:400:56:44

He does look pretty cool, actually pretty hot!

0:56:440:56:48

Which can't be said for all of them!

0:56:480:56:50

But Clissold was more than just a good cook.

0:56:500:56:52

He was also something of a mechanic, begging wires and batteries

0:56:520:56:56

from around the hut to create his own gadgets.

0:56:560:56:59

He'd rigged up this really cool alarm for working out when the bread dough had risen.

0:56:590:57:05

As it rose it hit a lever which kind of went up to a switch

0:57:050:57:08

and made this alarm ring, and then if that wasn't enough, then a light would start blinking

0:57:080:57:12

above his bed, and so the whole thing was set up so he could have a nap while the bread was rising.

0:57:120:57:18

Thomas Clissold made such an impression with his gadgets

0:57:180:57:21

that he found himself being awarded the greatest honour of all.

0:57:210:57:24

Scott had been working on an innovation.

0:57:240:57:27

He'd decided to experiment with new technology and had brought with him three motorised sledges.

0:57:270:57:33

Seeing Clissold's skill with gadgets, Scott asked him to join the team working with the sledges, which

0:57:330:57:39

would mean, in the spring time, leaving his kitchen and heading south with the polar party.

0:57:390:57:45

For an unranked 25-year-old cook, it was the chance of a lifetime.

0:57:460:57:51

And for me, it's proof that Scott was anything but blind to the talent around him, wherever it lay.

0:57:520:57:59

Each year as winter approaches,

0:58:150:58:17

the sea begins to freeze

0:58:170:58:19

and the solid mass of Antarctica doubles in size.

0:58:190:58:23

In 1911, as the sea froze, the Terra Nova had to leave.

0:58:250:58:29

As the ship would not be able to return until the following summer,

0:58:290:58:32

the men left behind were now cut off from the rest of the world.

0:58:320:58:37

With no way of restocking, Scott had to ensure that a catastrophic fire

0:58:400:58:45

in the hut wouldn't destroy everything they had.

0:58:450:58:48

He decided to scatter hoards of food and fuel in small clusters

0:58:490:58:53

on the hillside above the hut, and, a century on, many are still here.

0:58:530:58:58

Look at this!

0:59:010:59:03

I mean, this looks... this looks fresh!

0:59:050:59:08

It looks like lentils.

0:59:100:59:11

The detective in me is returning now. I assume this is flour.

0:59:160:59:21

I could be wrong now.

0:59:210:59:24

Look at all of these.

0:59:250:59:26

No!

0:59:290:59:31

Look, look, look, look, look!

0:59:320:59:33

Huntley, that's got to be the Huntley and Palmer biscuits.

0:59:350:59:38

This is just incredible.

0:59:380:59:40

On April 23rd, the 25 occupants of the Cape Evans Hut have their

0:59:470:59:51

last sight of the sun before the 24-hour darkness of a polar winter.

0:59:510:59:56

It will be four months before they see the sun again.

1:00:061:00:09

The men make notes in their diaries

1:00:091:00:12

and busy themselves as best they can.

1:00:121:00:14

Sunday, and the inhabitants of the hut are occupied with their own affairs.

1:00:161:00:21

Ponting is reading an exciting love story.

1:00:211:00:25

Oates is studying his great hero Napoleon.

1:00:251:00:28

For myself, clothes washing is the order of the day.

1:00:281:00:32

When that is finished I will be sewing patches on underpants.

1:00:321:00:36

At breakfast we discussed Amundsen.

1:00:381:00:41

Most of those here consider he will reach the pole first if he's not driven out to sea.

1:00:411:00:46

On starry nights, I shall look at the Great Bear

1:00:501:00:54

and you will also look at it sometimes.

1:00:541:00:57

And I shall look at the moon

1:00:571:00:59

as it floods our snows with its silver light.

1:00:591:01:03

The point was raised as to what a man should do if he were

1:01:031:01:06

to break down on the polar journey, thereby becoming a burden to others.

1:01:061:01:10

Oates unhesitatingly and emphatically expressed the opinion that there was only one possible course -

1:01:101:01:16

self sacrifice. He thought that a pistol should be carried and that

1:01:161:01:20

if anyone breaks down, he should have the privilege of using it.

1:01:201:01:24

Perhaps the winter of 1911 on Cape Evans was best summed up by the one Norwegian on Scott's team,

1:01:271:01:33

the ski expert and diarist Tryggve Gran.

1:01:331:01:36

It is difficult to keep a diary.

1:01:381:01:41

One day is just as monotonous as the rest.

1:01:411:01:43

Under such conditions, weak nerves will either get stronger or crack.

1:01:431:01:47

There is so little happening.

1:01:491:01:53

The tedium is broken briefly on midwinter's day by a great party.

1:01:541:01:58

Whilst revelry was the order of the day within our hut,

1:02:011:02:05

the elements without seemed desirous of celebrating the occasion

1:02:051:02:08

with equal emphasis and greater decorum.

1:02:081:02:12

The eastern sky was massed with swaying auroral light,

1:02:121:02:17

the most vivid and beautiful display that I had ever seen.

1:02:171:02:22

It is impossible to witness such a beautiful phenomenon

1:02:261:02:30

without a sense of awe.

1:02:301:02:32

One of the most extraordinary events of that winter was a journey.

1:03:021:03:07

Through the dark and bitterly cold winter, few people travelled far from the hut at Cape Evans.

1:03:071:03:13

But one man couldn't be held back.

1:03:131:03:16

Edward Wilson was an artist, a doctor, a devoted Christian

1:03:161:03:21

and Scott's chief scientist. He was passionately committed

1:03:211:03:25

to making scientific discoveries at any cost.

1:03:251:03:29

Wilson wanted to be the first to bring the eggs of the emperor penguin back to Britain,

1:03:291:03:34

eggs that are only laid in the middle of the polar winter.

1:03:341:03:38

He was insistent on taking two men on a five-week hike

1:03:381:03:42

through polar storms in permanent darkness to Cape Crozier.

1:03:421:03:46

It was one of the most taxing,

1:03:461:03:48

extreme and hostile journeys ever undertaken in the name of science.

1:03:481:03:53

Thankfully, we're taking a faster route.

1:03:591:04:02

Nigel is coming to make a record of what remains, and I've taken the opportunity to join him.

1:04:021:04:07

I don't think there's any other way to describe this

1:04:091:04:13

other than a godforsaken place!

1:04:131:04:15

This is about as bleak as you can get.

1:04:151:04:18

Yeah, we're on a very exposed sphere here, on the edge of Ross Island.

1:04:181:04:23

It must have been absolute sheer hell to be here

1:04:231:04:28

in the middle of winter in 24-hour darkness, shivering.

1:04:281:04:33

Apsley Cherry-Garrard talked about

1:04:361:04:39

the fact you know it's bad when you get frostbite inside your sleeping bag.

1:04:391:04:44

It was so cold that the men's teeth began to crack,

1:04:441:04:48

and even though we're here in summer and in good weather,

1:04:481:04:51

this is easily the coldest, bleakest place we've encountered.

1:04:511:04:56

If I ever think I've had any hardships in my life, on any of my trips...

1:04:561:05:01

Pales into insignificance.

1:05:011:05:04

This is like hell on Earth, this spot here.

1:05:041:05:07

Cape Crozier is a truly desolate place.

1:05:071:05:11

But amazingly, there are still remains of the stone igloo that the three men built for shelter.

1:05:111:05:16

This looks pretty insignificant, but this, can you see the green canvas?

1:05:181:05:23

-Yes. Green? It looks white now.

-They used this in the rock igloo

1:05:231:05:27

as a roof

1:05:271:05:29

with their sledges on top,

1:05:291:05:32

and the account was that when the big storm came in,

1:05:321:05:35

they started stuffing everything they could,

1:05:351:05:38

socks, bits of cloth, anything they could into the gaps in the rock

1:05:381:05:44

to stop the snow coming in.

1:05:441:05:46

But this was such a huge storm and it raged so hard,

1:05:461:05:49

they said the screaming was unbelievable, the noise.

1:05:491:05:53

And eventually they knew they were going to lose the roof

1:05:531:05:58

and the canvas went and here we had

1:05:581:06:01

the three men huddled in here in their sleeping bags,

1:06:011:06:05

in the open elements, with a storm raging.

1:06:051:06:09

Nigel is keen to record what remains to help build up his understanding of what Scott's team did.

1:06:121:06:19

For me, the trip has brought home a key point about this whole story -

1:06:191:06:24

it wasn't a dash to the pole.

1:06:241:06:26

Scott's British Antarctic Survey of 1911 was a scientific enterprise

1:06:271:06:32

supporting no fewer than 11 scientists.

1:06:321:06:35

These pioneers in biology, geology and physics measured the landscape, mapped skies, studied the climate

1:06:351:06:42

and returned discoveries for analysis at home, including the eggs of the emperor penguin.

1:06:421:06:48

I really can't help but think that this can't have helped their cause.

1:06:521:06:56

Bowers and Wilson,

1:06:561:06:58

you know, two men that perished in the tent with Captain Scott,

1:06:581:07:02

they can't have had time to recover from an experience like this.

1:07:021:07:06

Here are Bowers, Wilson and Cherry-Garrard about

1:07:131:07:17

to set out into the darkness of the polar winter for Cape Crozier.

1:07:171:07:21

This is their return just five weeks later.

1:07:211:07:25

And just three months after this photo was taken,

1:07:251:07:28

two of these men would accompany Scott to the pole.

1:07:281:07:32

The Crozier party looked more weather-worn than anyone I have yet seen.

1:07:391:07:43

It is for me now to note the strains that they have imposed upon themselves,

1:07:471:07:51

and the lessons that their experiences teach for our future guidance.

1:07:511:07:56

As the winter ended, all attention was focused on preparations for the journey to the South Pole.

1:08:021:08:08

Each day Scott carefully monitored the temperature, the weather and the first flickers of sunlight.

1:08:081:08:14

It's the famous stables in here. The smell is just extraordinary.

1:08:181:08:21

You really get a sense of what it must have been like.

1:08:211:08:24

But these were pretty frustrating times for Scott.

1:08:241:08:27

He knew that not far away, Amundsen was waiting with his much hardier dogs.

1:08:271:08:32

And even as the light returned after winter, they had to wait.

1:08:321:08:36

The ponies simply couldn't go out until it was warm enough.

1:08:361:08:39

Though it's certainly cold, it's only by spending the winter here at

1:08:461:08:49

Cape Evans, as Scott did, that you encounter the worst temperatures.

1:08:491:08:54

At minus 30, any exposed skin is vulnerable to frostbite in moments,

1:08:561:09:01

which presents a challenge when nature calls.

1:09:011:09:04

Diana has just made a discovery that suggests that this was

1:09:041:09:08

one problem that Scott's party had gone some way to solving.

1:09:081:09:13

That is hilarious.

1:09:151:09:18

Is that willy hole?

1:09:191:09:21

That is amazing! So they could go to the loo.

1:09:211:09:24

I've never seen anything like that in all my life.

1:09:251:09:28

I thought I'd seen everything. It even has a little closing strap so that you could...avoid drafts.

1:09:281:09:34

You wouldn't want to get frostbite there, would you?

1:09:351:09:38

OK, Cricket, shall I pop those down there?

1:09:381:09:41

Sure, we'll take a look at them. What have you got there?

1:09:411:09:44

Trousers with a willy hole.

1:09:441:09:47

-Very nice!

-How are we going to pack that so we don't crush that?

1:09:471:09:51

THEY LAUGH

1:09:511:09:53

We pay these guys a lot of money.

1:09:551:09:57

Although the expedition was using basic clothing by today's standards,

1:10:021:10:06

it seems they were using the very best available.

1:10:061:10:09

Much of the clothing left here in the hut was specially designed by companies like Burberry and Jaeger.

1:10:091:10:15

This project has revealed that the clothing of 1911, being of entirely natural fibres,

1:10:161:10:21

compared surprisingly well with modern counterparts at keeping out the cold.

1:10:211:10:25

Where Scott suffered was in carrying the bedding.

1:10:281:10:31

These 1911 reindeer sleeping bags are cumbersome and heavy

1:10:331:10:36

compared to modern sleeping bags, and doubled in weight once wet.

1:10:361:10:40

Wow, look at that.

1:10:421:10:44

An old tweed cap.

1:10:441:10:46

-No way, I've never seen that before.

-Have you not?

-No, It's fantastic.

1:10:461:10:50

It actually looks in quite good condition.

1:10:501:10:53

-It's gorgeous, yeah. I think Clissold would look good in this.

-Oh, do you?

1:10:551:10:58

Clissold, the inventive cook, and the other 14 men selected

1:11:011:11:04

by Scott are now fully engaged in preparing for the journey south.

1:11:041:11:08

Sunday, October 8th,

1:11:101:11:12

about five, a telephone message from Nelson's igloo

1:11:121:11:15

reported that Clissold had fallen from a berg and hurt his back.

1:11:151:11:19

It appears that Clissold was acting as Ponting's model and that he dropped six feet onto a sharp angle

1:11:191:11:25

in the berg before he grew unconscious.

1:11:251:11:28

Tuesday, October 17th.

1:11:291:11:32

I have had to tell Clissold that he cannot go out with the motor party, to his great disappointment.

1:11:321:11:37

Hooper replaces him.

1:11:371:11:39

On the 24th October, the motorised sledges headed out without Clissold.

1:11:411:11:47

And it was over the next few days that 11 men, ponies and dogs, all set out for the pole.

1:11:471:11:52

The expedition had begun.

1:11:521:11:55

But it would be some time before those men left behind in the hut

1:11:551:11:59

would hear news of how they were getting on.

1:11:591:12:01

While his heavy equipment meant that Ponting was unable to photograph the journey south, Scott was.

1:12:011:12:08

He's been accused of being stubborn and old fashioned.

1:12:081:12:11

But what few people know is that be became a pupil of Ponting

1:12:111:12:16

so that he could photograph the journey south himself.

1:12:161:12:19

Amazingly, those pictures were lost and only recently turned up in an auction.

1:12:191:12:25

They've never been published before and are seen here

1:12:251:12:28

for the first time.

1:12:281:12:30

What they show shines a new light on Scott.

1:12:301:12:33

He took to his tutelage very well.

1:12:341:12:37

He learned from a master.

1:12:371:12:39

Here's an early photograph.

1:12:391:12:41

You can see see that there was a certain problem.

1:12:411:12:44

-Head cut off.

-That's right.

1:12:441:12:46

All of a sudden we start seeing

1:12:461:12:48

Scott do different things from Ponting, and what happens is

1:12:481:12:52

that while Ponting is using the film camera, a whiteout occurs,

1:12:521:12:57

and Scott keeps taking the photographs.

1:12:571:13:01

Scott wanted to show action as it was occurring.

1:13:011:13:05

Having practised his craft at the hut, once on the expedition

1:13:071:13:11

to the pole it was Scott's chance to capture truly unique images.

1:13:111:13:16

Here we are on the great ice barrier, and there is the line of march.

1:13:161:13:19

With the infamous ponies.

1:13:191:13:21

With the infamous ponies, the sledges fully done

1:13:211:13:24

and the men trudging through a very heavy snow.

1:13:241:13:28

This photo is on the way to the South Pole.

1:13:281:13:30

-On the way.

-It's amazing.

1:13:301:13:32

They had to create these huge ice walls.

1:13:321:13:35

Imagine finishing a day's march like you had, and then having to build

1:13:351:13:39

a six-foot ice wall to protect the ponies from the freezing wind.

1:13:391:13:43

I heard a story of Oates who was particularly fond of the ponies, that these walls would sometimes

1:13:431:13:48

tumble in the night. The winds were so strong, they'd knock them over. He'd go and rebuild them.

1:13:481:13:52

And apparently he had one pony that kept knocking it down.

1:13:521:13:56

It got really angry, and he'd rebuilt it up to eight times in the night.

1:13:561:13:59

-That's right.

-That's dedication.

1:13:591:14:01

He was the last man in his tent because he was always building walls.

1:14:011:14:05

Captain Laurence Titus Oates loved the ponies

1:14:051:14:09

and understood them better than anyone on the expedition.

1:14:091:14:12

He's shown here to be one of Scott's most committed expedition members.

1:14:121:14:17

But Scott's pictures also give insight to his much debated leadership style.

1:14:171:14:22

Take a look at that.

1:14:221:14:24

They are manhauling for all their worth a sledge which weighs an awful lot.

1:14:261:14:31

So much has been made of Scott the divisionist,

1:14:311:14:35

if that's a word that I can use, but Captain Scott

1:14:351:14:39

who divided officers and men,

1:14:391:14:41

and they had their separate parts in the hut and even divided the loos,

1:14:411:14:45

and yet here it feels much more of a team, it feels much more intimate.

1:14:451:14:51

I'd agree with that.

1:14:511:14:53

I think all of these pictures show that everyone is moving together,

1:14:531:14:58

working together, to meet their goal.

1:14:581:15:00

I don't see any sense of division here at all.

1:15:001:15:03

The pictures show Scott's men working together.

1:15:051:15:08

It may be that the hut was divided, but for me

1:15:081:15:11

what these pictures reveal is a leader of a unified team

1:15:111:15:15

pulling as one, with a common goal.

1:15:151:15:18

Seven weeks after the party had left the hut,

1:15:201:15:23

the first news of the expedition began to arrive back at Cape Evans.

1:15:231:15:27

The motorised sledging team returned with the news that just 60 miles in, the vehicles had failed.

1:15:301:15:36

They'd been forced to abandon them.

1:15:361:15:38

But worse still, the dog sledding team returned from this point

1:15:381:15:43

with the news that Scott and his men had been stormbound for many days. This had a knock-on effect.

1:15:431:15:47

The ponies that they were relying on simply weren't going to make it up the glacier. They had to shoot them.

1:15:471:15:53

Scott and his men, without ponies, without dogs and without motorised

1:15:531:15:57

vehicles, would have to pull the sledges themselves.

1:15:571:16:00

They'd be manhauling the heavy sledges to the South Pole earlier than Scott had planned.

1:16:011:16:07

Those men left at the hut knew that Scott had to return by March

1:16:201:16:25

when the winter darkness would begin again and his rations would run out.

1:16:251:16:30

Until then, all they could do was wait.

1:16:301:16:34

By the middle of March, everyone in the hut knew that Scott's party should be returning.

1:17:041:17:10

Men became agitated and there were frequent false alarms.

1:17:101:17:14

Wind Vane Hill, right behind the hut,

1:17:141:17:16

is a perfectly positioned vantage point,

1:17:161:17:18

allowing a view directly south.

1:17:181:17:21

So they say that...

1:17:221:17:23

each evening a watchman would come up on top of this hill

1:17:231:17:28

and look due south for any sign of Scott's returning team.

1:17:281:17:34

When they went back into the hut there was complete silence,

1:17:341:17:37

everyone stopped what they were doing

1:17:371:17:40

in expectation of news.

1:17:401:17:43

25th March, 1912.

1:17:471:17:49

We have begun to worry about the fate of the polar party.

1:17:511:17:55

No one says anything, but you can see it in most of their faces.

1:17:551:17:59

When the watchman comes down from Vane Hill each night to report,

1:17:591:18:03

everything comes to a standstill in the hut

1:18:031:18:06

and every eye is fixed on him.

1:18:061:18:08

11th April, 1912.

1:18:111:18:14

I was standing outside the hut taking the temperatures when I heard someone shout, "The polar party's coming!"

1:18:151:18:22

I rushed into the hut, to the gramophone to get out the National Anthem to greet Scott.

1:18:221:18:27

I stood and waited long.

1:18:271:18:30

But no-one came.

1:18:311:18:33

19th April, 1912.

1:18:391:18:41

I had a fright today.

1:18:411:18:44

The stove was spluttering, the chimney pipe glowing red hot

1:18:441:18:48

right up to the roof, and outside a blizzard was blowing.

1:18:481:18:53

Suddenly, there was a bang at the door.

1:18:531:18:55

I stopped daydreaming and sat up and listened.

1:18:551:18:59

A wild idea rushed through my head.

1:18:591:19:01

Could the impossible have happened?

1:19:021:19:05

Could Scott have returned?

1:19:051:19:08

I rushed out of the hut into the blizzard.

1:19:081:19:10

Something loomed up and I ran towards it.

1:19:101:19:15

A big emperor penguin was paying us a visit.

1:19:151:19:19

It paid for its cheek

1:19:191:19:21

with its life.

1:19:211:19:23

By late October, exactly a year after Scott set out for the pole with ten men,

1:19:291:19:35

several of those same men now head off from the Cape Evans hut to attempt to find Scott's body.

1:19:351:19:40

Had the party failed, we would never have known how the story ended.

1:19:411:19:46

But by a chance in 100,

1:19:461:19:48

they find a tent almost buried after a winter in the snow.

1:19:481:19:52

It was here, 11 miles short of that final depot of food and fuel,

1:19:551:20:00

the depot that was originally supposed to be 30 miles further out.

1:20:001:20:05

Here inside the tent, Scott, the scientist and writer,

1:20:051:20:10

Wilson, and the great organiser Bowers...

1:20:101:20:13

..were found frozen.

1:20:141:20:16

They take Scott's diary, some exposed film that will later reveal

1:20:211:20:24

the faces of five men at the South Pole, one month after Amundsen.

1:20:241:20:29

This is the final diary that was on his body

1:20:321:20:36

when he was found in the tent.

1:20:361:20:39

This has lasted a whole winter out on the ice.

1:20:401:20:44

And here on this last page, "For God's sake,

1:20:451:20:50

"look after our people."

1:20:501:20:51

This was the only evidence as to how and why they perished.

1:20:541:20:59

The diary reveals that the mighty Evans was first to die.

1:21:041:21:07

We stopped, and seeing Evans a long way astern, we were alarmed, and all four started back on ski.

1:21:101:21:17

He was on his knees with clothing disarranged, hands uncovered

1:21:191:21:22

and frostbitten, and a wild look in his eyes.

1:21:221:21:27

He died quietly at 12:30am.

1:21:271:21:30

He dies here at the foot of the Beardmore glacier on 16th February.

1:21:321:21:38

And just a month later, on 15th or 16th March,

1:21:381:21:42

Oates dies here, his feet in tatters from frostbite.

1:21:421:21:47

Poor Titus Oates said he couldn't go on.

1:21:491:21:51

He proposed we should leave him in his sleeping bag.

1:21:511:21:54

That we could not do.

1:21:541:21:56

He struggled on and we made a few miles.

1:21:561:21:59

He slept through the night, hoping not to wake, but he woke in the morning.

1:21:591:22:03

It was blowing a blizzard. He said...

1:22:031:22:06

"..I am just going outside and may be some time."

1:22:071:22:12

He went out into the blizzard and we have not seen him since.

1:22:131:22:16

Perhaps the five men died because they were caught in some truly terrible polar storms.

1:22:181:22:23

Perhaps it was because they chose to take ponies

1:22:231:22:25

when dogs might have proved faster.

1:22:251:22:28

Or maybe they grew weak on low rations of food.

1:22:281:22:32

But there is another suggestion hinted at by Scott himself, that the fuel that was essential for heating

1:22:321:22:38

food and giving warmth ran out, something that mystified Scott,

1:22:381:22:42

but thanks to objects left behind, we may now have the answer.

1:22:421:22:47

This was a critical part of the story of Scott's last expedition.

1:22:471:22:51

One-gallon tins of paraffin.

1:22:511:22:53

They were sealed with these brass tops, and on the inside of them,

1:22:531:22:58

they had leather washers and they shrunk in the cold.

1:22:581:23:03

They'd arrive at one of their depots and they'd find these half empty.

1:23:031:23:06

That's right, and they couldn't understand why there was less fuel, and without that you're a goner.

1:23:061:23:12

There's been a lots of hypotheses, lots of theories

1:23:121:23:15

about why Scott might have died, what might have saved him.

1:23:151:23:19

But essentially, that little washer, that little piece of leather

1:23:191:23:23

could have meant the difference between life and death, really.

1:23:231:23:26

For something so small, it had a major bearing on the outcome.

1:23:261:23:30

In his last days, Scott assessed the reasons for what could now only end in tragedy.

1:23:331:23:39

Causes of the disaster are not due to faulty organisation, but to misfortune...

1:23:391:23:43

The loss of pony transport obliged the limits of stuff transported to be narrowed...

1:23:431:23:48

The weather throughout the outward journey...

1:23:481:23:50

We should have got through in spite of the weather...

1:23:501:23:53

But for the sickening of Captain Oates... Captain Oates...

1:23:531:23:55

And a shortage of fuel in our depots, for which I cannot account...

1:23:551:24:01

Finally, but for the storm which has fallen on us

1:24:011:24:05

within 11 miles of the depot...

1:24:051:24:08

Had we lived,

1:24:081:24:09

I should have had a tale to tell

1:24:091:24:12

of the hardyhood, endurance and courage of my companions

1:24:121:24:17

which would have stirred the heart of every Englishman.

1:24:171:24:21

These rough notes and our dead bodies must tell the tale.

1:24:211:24:25

It seems a pity,

1:24:251:24:28

but I do not think that I can write more.

1:24:281:24:30

For God's sake,

1:24:331:24:36

look after our people.

1:24:361:24:38

Somewhere beneath this ice shelf that's the size of France

1:24:451:24:50

are the bodies

1:24:501:24:52

of Evans, Oates,

1:24:521:24:55

Wilson, Bowers

1:24:551:24:58

and Captain Scott,

1:24:581:25:00

entombed in 100 years of snow and ice.

1:25:001:25:05

And almost in a beautiful irony,

1:25:071:25:11

as this ice shelf continues to move north...

1:25:111:25:15

..at some stage, their bodies will arrive at open water

1:25:161:25:21

and they will have completed their journey home.

1:25:211:25:25

I set out to the Antarctic with contrasting portraits of Scott in my mind.

1:25:281:25:34

On one hand he was the great British hero who never put a foot wrong.

1:25:341:25:39

On the other he was an uncommunicative failure.

1:25:391:25:42

As my time at Cape Evans runs out,

1:25:451:25:48

I realise that I've been surrounded by the answers the whole time.

1:25:481:25:53

Shackleton's hut was the hut of a man whose principle aim,

1:25:551:25:58

like Amundsen's, was to get to the South Pole.

1:25:581:26:02

But I now realise why Scott's hut feels so different.

1:26:021:26:06

This wasn't just the base for a polar hunt, it was so much more.

1:26:061:26:11

This was the base for a journey of scientific discovery.

1:26:111:26:15

This is where the science of climate study began in Antarctica.

1:26:151:26:19

And this is where information was gained that was so accurate that's it's still used today.

1:26:191:26:25

Scott was turned into a two-dimensional hero by people

1:26:271:26:30

who didn't fully understand what he came here to do.

1:26:301:26:34

By spending time here in the hut,

1:26:341:26:37

I can see that he was so much more than that.

1:26:371:26:40

This is the Royal Geographical Society in London, the place where Scott researched his adventures.

1:26:471:26:53

A century on and I've been asked to present my own conclusions.

1:26:531:26:57

Over the last century, Scott has been portrayed as a national hero

1:26:571:27:03

and a heroic failure.

1:27:031:27:04

I think both do him an injustice.

1:27:041:27:07

I think as we mark the centenary of his great expedition,

1:27:071:27:12

it's time to allow him to be a man -

1:27:121:27:15

a man of vision, a man of drive,

1:27:151:27:18

a man of passion, a man with faults

1:27:181:27:22

and a man with qualities that made other men want to follow him

1:27:221:27:26

to the end of the Earth.

1:27:261:27:28

APPLAUSE

1:27:281:27:30

I feel that in a wooden hut in the Antarctic,

1:27:581:28:02

I came about as close to Scott as is ever going to be possible.

1:28:021:28:06

I think Scott was a man of passion and drive

1:28:061:28:09

who wanted to be remembered.

1:28:091:28:11

I think he might be amused and perhaps a little humbled

1:28:111:28:15

to know that, a century on, his hut is cherished

1:28:151:28:20

along with the toothbrushes, test tubes, boots,

1:28:201:28:24

cufflinks and bottles of tomato ketchup,

1:28:241:28:27

and that it bears witness to the kind of man he was.

1:28:271:28:30

I don't think he'd be displeased by that at all.

1:28:301:28:34

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