A City Dreaming


A City Dreaming

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I was born in Derry/Londonderry

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on the northwest coast of Ireland.

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The city beyond my window was awash with adventure, past, present

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and a future that was about to be revealed to me.

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For the past few months that I had been ill,

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and spared going to school...

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..I moved and lived in an adult's world.

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Our house seethed with life and laughter.

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I was surrounded by special people.

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In many ways, those were the happiest of days.

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I felt blessed.

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But not by Jesus or by his flaming sacred heart.

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That was just...er, furniture.

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Furniture that seemed to be waiting for me to die.

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But I had no intention of dying. I was far too busy.

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Too busy listening to the girls singing

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in the shirt factory sweatshop across the street.

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# And their womenfolk wave their goodbyes... #

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The factory windows were left open to let the steam out.

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The girls sang along with the tunes playing on the radio.

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# While the Lou'siana moon floats on high... #

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They always lapsed into three-part harmony.

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It was an almost African choral sound.

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They sang, "Shrimp boats is a-comin', their sails are in sight.

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"Shrimp boats is a-comin', there'll be dancing tonight."

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# Shrimp boats is a-comin'

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# Their sails are in sight

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# Shrimp boats is a-comin'

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# There's dancin' tonight

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# Why don't you hurry, hurry, hurry home?

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# Why don't you hurry, hurry, hurry home?

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# Look here, the shrimp boats is a-comin'

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# There's dancin' tonight

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# Shrimps boats is a-comin'

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# There's dancin' tonight

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# Happy the days while they're mending the nets

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# Till once more they ride high out to sea... #

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I pictured them swaying home after work, arms innocently linked,

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giggling at the grey, wasted boys gathered at the street corners,

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sucking dog-ends and spitting on the pavement.

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Girls with happy smiles and strong, gleaming, white teeth.

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Because these were strong, independent women.

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I loved their vitality, in spite of the fact

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that their lives were tough outside the factory gates.

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They showed no sign of it, though.

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Never seemed down, depressed or even a hair less than jolly.

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I was aware of the cramped conditions

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they had to endure at home.

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Often too-large families

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crammed into a crumbling, small-scale two-up-two-down.

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Husbands, of course, were generally unemployed and sensitive about it.

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No housework for the men.

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Dignity must be preserved at all costs.

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As 1,500 girls poured out onto the pavement beneath me,

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I remembered thinking, "Those girls are too good for those boys."

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Even though I was one of those boys myself.

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Because of its colourful past and centuries of unresolved disputes,

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the city of Derry has gathered a minimum of two names -

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Derry, favoured by Catholics,

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and Londonderry, which is easier on the Protestant ear.

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The end result is a mysterious town,

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guarded and furtive about its history.

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The spires of two great rival cathedrals stage a Mexican stand-off

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across the deserted river Foyle.

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Each morning, I would stand on the bottom of my bed,

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peering out the open sky-light window...

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..at the serried ranks of clustered buildings

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seemingly waiting for the great clang of the Guildhall Clock

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to call them to attention.

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This morning world belonged to me only.

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The poet Philip Larkin said that sex wasn't invented until 1963.

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As far as I was concerned, neither was colour.

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This was a grey city.

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Granted, there were different shades of grey,

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each one duller than the next.

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Appropriate shades of grey were selected for people's complexions,

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men's overcoats, women's shoes, children's prams,

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municipal and private buildings, ships and dockers' caps.

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Cars were grey too, but, unaccountably,

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some of them were white.

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I once had a charcoal-grey suit with yellow lining.

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Quite the dandy.

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To get my hands on the type of red shirt worn by Elvis,

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I would have to fly to Naples.

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There was as much chance of flying to the moon.

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There was no such thing as casual clothing.

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We wore cheap suits until they disintegrated.

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We didn't have denims, jeans or T-shirts.

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We couldn't even get a torn T-shirt like Marlon Brando's.

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We strove to look respectable, because this was the natural order.

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The city had been falling apart since I was born.

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Faded Victorian ruins, stripped of splendour.

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But that was fine by me. I loved it.

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It felt homely.

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Dickensian and desolate though it may have looked to outsiders,

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I saw little wrong with the place at the time.

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It felt lived-in.

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And the people who lived in it were warm, poor, friendly, funny,

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deprived, neglected and cheerful.

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I thought everybody was like that.

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We belonged only to the street from which we came.

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Most people were working class

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and felt that the city didn't belong to them.

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That it was owned by somebody else.

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It was an uncomfortable feeling.

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There was no pressure to succeed in life,

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because it was taken as given that it didn't matter.

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The odds were against us.

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Many of the older, smarter people

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weren't educated as they should have been...

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..some of whom became tortured souls,

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who'd long ago been left behind

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by an inadequate education system.

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Tortured souls who would seek each other out

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and gather around a dwindling fire...

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..in late-night huckster shops,

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to talk about matters that they deemed intellectual.

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Such as, what was the thinking

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behind Einstein's theory of relativity?

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Or why sticks seemed to bend in the water.

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Or why dogs can hear high-pitched sounds that we can't.

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The questions and hypotheses carried on late into the night.

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The street where I lived was teeming with life and incident.

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A jumble of Victorian housing

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and ramshackle tenements filled to overflowing.

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Small dwellings which were often occupied by two or three families.

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Plus the outhouse dwellers.

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Menageries of donkeys, pigs, chickens

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and other varieties of fowl co-existed in the back yards.

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As if there weren't enough animals running free,

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my neighbour, Greta, owned a pet shop.

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She'd taught her parrot to greet unwelcome visitors to the street

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by screaming, "Fuck off!"

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The police eventually confiscated the bird

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in the interests of public order.

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DOGS BARK

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This area was one of the gateways from the docks

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and a main city thoroughfare to the Bogside.

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It would much later be called Checkpoint Charlie -

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the last point of control from which the British Army

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launched their patrols into what became known as Free Derry.

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But that was all in the future.

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And we never paid much heed to what the future held.

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Life was the here and now, with little chance of change.

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BOYS SHOUT AND CHATTER

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Every Wednesday, cattle were bundled off boats from Scotland

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and herded through the city streets past my house

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on their way to the abattoir, to the left, on William Street.

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When they passed my house,

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they usually picked up the fatal whiff of the slaughterhouse

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and were not best pleased at their immediate prospects.

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They would then usually bolt in the opposite direction,

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to the right, pursued by loud men with sticks.

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MEN SHOUT

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The cattle would often come face-to-face with a number of horses

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that were tethered outside my friend's door.

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HORSE WHINNIES

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Also present would be a number of small electric vans

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belonging to the adjacent Brewster's Bakery, buzzing about the vicinity.

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The stampeding cattle, the rearing and neighing of large horses,

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the peeps of the electrical beeps from the battered vans,

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created a wonderful confusion that was a joy to witness.

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Later on, my mates and I would climb into Brewster's yards

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to unplug the vans from their electric chargers.

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We would drive them about inside the large garage

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and then carefully reconnect them to the electricity supply.

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And so to bed,

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dreaming of drovers, cattle, mad horses,

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frenzied vans and no harm done.

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BICYCLE BELL RINGS

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Outside my front door was, for all to see,

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a life force and a vitality to be reckoned with.

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But a person had to be open to appreciate it.

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Our future tragedy, just about to unfold, was that all this richness

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was trampled over and regarded as worthless.

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As a people, we roamed freely between Derry

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and neighbouring County Donegal.

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But with the division of Ireland under partition,

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Donegal was now, technically, part of another country.

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This didn't feel right.

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Many people had long-standing family and spiritual connections

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to what was generally, romantically thought of as a magical place,

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a place of high kings, fleeing earls,

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banshees and buttermilk.

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Fondly though it was regarded in the hearts of dreamers,

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the reality of everyday life

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often stood in stark contrast to the fairytale.

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My mother, born in Donegal, had her first taste of white slavery

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when she was sold at the Hiring Fair in Derry in the early '20s.

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It was called "the rabbles" and endured until the '30s.

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To get there, she walked barefoot 14 miles,

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carrying a small bundle, which contained her earthly possessions.

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She took her place in line after threading her way

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through a crowded square within Derry's walls, called the Diamond.

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She was there examined by potential employers,

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mostly fat, ruddy-faced farmers.

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Once accepted, her bundle was confiscated

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and she was told to stand beside a particular horse and cart.

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This she did for seven hours until her new mentor returned drunk,

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heaved her aboard and set off for a destination

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that he did not think worthwhile to reveal to her.

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She was worked hard under brutal conditions.

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She wasn't permitted to sit down between the hours of 6am and 8pm,

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except when milking cows and even ate standing up.

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All her life, she harboured an acquired resentment

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of all forms of authority, not a particularly bitter resentment,

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but a knowing mild resentment that she took with her to her grave.

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I remember walking with her, hand in hand,

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when we came across the sight

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of grown men dropping to one knee in the street

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to kiss the ring of the portly and haughty Catholic Bishop of Derry,

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who often took the air of an evening,

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patrolling the hovels of the faithful.

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She bent down and whispered in my ear.

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"Look at those fools!" she said.

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My father ran away to war when he was 16 years old.

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He was on Eamon de Valera's side

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and fought with the anti-treaty forces during the Irish Civil War.

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De Valera was a romantic figure to some,

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but aloof and guarded to others.

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Hero of the Irish Revolution, New York-born and Cuban-Irish,

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my father idolised him and could barely believe it

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when he heard that De Valera was coming to Derry.

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He was so excited that, when the day dawned,

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he washed me himself.

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He spoke of him in hushed tones.

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"There he is now! (There he is!)"

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The people were ecstatic and it's hard now to figure out why.

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Everybody turned out wearing their finest.

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Fancy schoolgirls' bows were orchestrated by the nuns.

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Normally sensible men marched in formation,

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probably for the first time in their lives.

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There was a Walter Mitty air about the occasion.

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It was an over-appropriate welcome

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for someone whom we felt should like us

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and we so wanted to be liked.

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Although there were flurries of republicanism during the '50s,

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the general feeling was that the die was cast.

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We were ruled by a Unionist government that openly despised us.

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Nothing was going to change that.

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Nor did most people identify with the South,

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already sinking under the weight of Church rule and economic inertia.

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De Valera was a hero all right,

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but one who was fast asleep on the job.

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I suppose it was a day of what might have been.

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The cold reality was that

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Derry people didn't identify with Northern Ireland,

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nor was the Republic attractive,

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because most of the women working in the shirt factories

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had willingly fled from it.

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Derry was, in many ways, an independent statelet.

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Like Monaco, without the money.

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So why not have a day out to pay homage

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to a stumbling relic of what might have been?

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My father grinned non-stop.

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He'd earned his day in the sun.

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MUSIC: Mambo No 5 by Perez Prado

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We usually had five or six factory girls

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from the surrounding countryside lodging in our house.

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There was no keeping them down on the farm

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when the dance halls were jumping every night.

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SONG CONTINUES

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My mother fed and looked after the girls.

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I regarded them almost as sisters.

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Nor was there any hanky-panky under our roof.

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None of their transient boyfriends

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got as much as a toe across the threshold.

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Not that rules had been laid down,

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it just never seemed to have occurred to the girls.

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In total, in our house lived six or seven young girls,

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an elderly lady named Rose,

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who covered everything she owned with brown paper,

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two spinster sisters from Fermanagh

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and a uniformed serving petty officer of the British Navy,

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whom I used to salute when we passed on the stairs.

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There was usually no place for me at the first sitting for dinner,

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but I loved it.

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We also kept two bus drivers called Fred and Ernie.

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Names that don't seem to be used much any more.

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These two quiet single men in their thirties

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had slicked-back short hair and were enthusiastic chain smokers.

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They wore long, heavy, double-breasted, belted overcoats,

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overcoats with big, roomy pockets that jingled with loose change,

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a penny or two for the likes of me, a rogue bar of chocolate

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and a handful of boiled sweets.

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I always thought of them as the kind of men

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who were the first to be killed in wars.

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There was an innocence, solidness and a decency about them.

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It was within Fred and Ernie's nature

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to always do the decent thing. Their instinct was

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to look after one another in small ways on a daily basis.

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That seems to happen less these days.

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Out on the street, sex was for sale, but only the ugly took part.

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A number of ladies of the night

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serviced the sailors and the misfits.

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They took advantage of the natural shelter provided

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by a building outcrop at the top of our street.

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I was often sent out with a Delft bowl to the local chipper.

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The journey back and forth revealed the wild side of life.

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On the short journey back from the chipper, I would chat with

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the hookers and felt obliged to distribute a chip or two.

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I liked the girls and appreciated the rigours of their work.

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Returning home with far fewer chips than I should have,

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I would hear from my mother's sainted mouth

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words that probably few children hear during their childhood years.

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"Have you been feeding those prostitutes again?!"

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But when daylight and the working day came,

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the hookers and the sailors were gone.

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200 yards from our front door was the Guildhall Square.

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A selection of the great and good were paraded through the streets.

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They all seemed to come from a life

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that was a million miles away from our existence.

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There was a resentment there.

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Not that we envied them.

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They weren't our type of people.

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And indeed, it didn't seem like much fun.

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But, for me, the most interesting visitor

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was someone who hadn't planned on visiting us at all.

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Amelia Earhart took off from Newfoundland

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in a scarlet Lockheed Vega

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in a bid to accomplish what no woman had managed before -

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a solo flight from America to Europe.

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In a man's world, she was a leader.

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Little did she know that she was about to land in a place

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where women were in charge.

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She endured the sight of flames licking from her engine

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and, when she felt aviation fuel dripping down her neck,

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she wisely sought somewhere to land, and quick.

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Thus, Amelia Earhart dropped from the sky

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and landed in a field on the outskirts of an unsuspecting Derry.

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When Amelia landed, she was approached by a local.

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"Where am I?" she naturally inquired.

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"You're in Gallagher's field!" replied the local

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in a tone that indicated that Miss Earhart should've known that.

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It's hard to imagine what an equivalent surprise would be today.

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Perhaps the arrival of an alien spacecraft

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piloted by an exotic creature.

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Exotic was just what Amelia Earhart was

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to the crowds who flocked to greet her.

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Tall, slim, healthy, athletic, photogenic

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and beautiful in a tomboyish way.

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Out of the blue she had dropped.

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A specimen of what women in Ireland would not dare to even aspire to

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for at least another 30 to 40 years.

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And she alone, with her own aeroplane.

0:29:210:29:26

AIR RAID SIREN

0:29:310:29:34

I was a baby when the Luftwaffe came to bomb Derry.

0:29:450:29:49

I was too young to stop it.

0:29:500:29:51

When the sirens sounded, I lay helpless in my cot.

0:29:520:29:56

SIREN BLARES

0:29:560:29:58

People in the immediate vicinity seldom used the air raid shelter

0:29:580:30:02

at the bottom of our street, mainly because they didn't want

0:30:020:30:05

to disturb the young lovers who occupied it on a regular basis.

0:30:050:30:10

The long, hard battle for the Atlantic

0:30:120:30:15

was supplied from Derry's port

0:30:150:30:17

and it was to here that the lethal North Atlantic German U-boat fleet

0:30:170:30:22

silently filed in to surrender.

0:30:220:30:25

The man in the street was allowed

0:30:270:30:28

to board these submarines and savour the victory,

0:30:280:30:32

but most were there mainly to nick themselves a souvenir.

0:30:320:30:36

For 26 years, a magnificent bronze German eagle

0:30:380:30:42

with a swastika emblazoned on its wooden base

0:30:420:30:46

proudly stood on top of a piano in our front room.

0:30:460:30:49

There it remained until the IRA decided to blow up our house.

0:30:490:30:54

EXPLOSION

0:30:540:30:56

The bomb was duly placed on the ground floor.

0:30:590:31:02

Directly above was our front room containing the eagle and my mother.

0:31:020:31:09

The subsequent blast sent the eagle through the roof.

0:31:110:31:14

My mother was uninjured apart from a temporary loss of hearing,

0:31:150:31:19

but for the rest of her life I noticed

0:31:190:31:22

that she no longer appreciated surprises.

0:31:220:31:26

The IRA blew up our house by mistake.

0:31:290:31:32

At least, when Hitler bombed Derry, he knew what he was doing.

0:31:320:31:36

Imagine what went through these young boys' heads...

0:31:420:31:45

..as they trained on the banks of our own River Foyle,

0:31:470:31:50

on the very beach where I now walk my dog.

0:31:500:31:54

It was a long way from the open farmlands of the Midwest

0:31:560:32:00

to the beaches of Normandy and Iwo Jima.

0:32:000:32:04

1940s MUSIC PLAYS

0:32:070:32:10

Later, as a teenager, I lived in fear of a NATO fleet

0:32:100:32:14

taking their annual break from exercises in the North Atlantic.

0:32:140:32:19

Thousands of marauding sailors of many nationalities

0:32:200:32:24

roamed the streets, hungry for strong drink, blood and women,

0:32:240:32:31

usually in that order.

0:32:310:32:33

By then, we had our own American base

0:32:330:32:37

in which lived what we called the local Americans.

0:32:370:32:42

Yanks who spent their time monitoring nuclear submarines

0:32:420:32:46

in the North Atlantic.

0:32:460:32:48

They had constructed for themselves an in-house micro-America.

0:32:480:32:53

Here, my eyes first fell upon automatic lawn sprinklers,

0:32:530:32:58

coffee that didn't make you want to puke,

0:32:580:33:01

beer that didn't come down your nose,

0:33:010:33:04

pizzas, high-fives, real hamburgers, soda fountains

0:33:040:33:10

and women wearing stretch pants.

0:33:100:33:12

And all this while,

0:33:140:33:16

outside the starred-and-striped gates of their base

0:33:160:33:20

lay a dull, sluggish city,

0:33:200:33:23

awash with spindly-legged undernourished males,

0:33:230:33:27

dreaming of a job, gathering at crumbling street corners,

0:33:270:33:33

spitting on the pavement,

0:33:330:33:35

sucking on almost invisible dog ends of Woodbine cigarettes

0:33:350:33:39

and subsisting on a hearty diet of spuds, mincemeat,

0:33:390:33:45

pigs feet, baps and sticky buns.

0:33:450:33:48

We quietly observed the Yanks roaring past us

0:33:490:33:52

in imported Chryslers and mightily-finned Thunderbirds.

0:33:520:33:57

We thought it all very unfair.

0:33:570:34:00

Even though they introduced us to things we liked,

0:34:000:34:04

such as real guitars and American pop records,

0:34:040:34:07

and, even though we liked the Yanks, we still thought, "Those bastards!"

0:34:070:34:13

CHORAL SINGING

0:34:140:34:17

Where I lived was overwhelmingly Catholic.

0:34:280:34:32

People were eagerly groomed by a Catholic Church

0:34:320:34:36

on the hunt for souls and influence.

0:34:360:34:40

The annual retreat was the Catholic Nuremberg Rally.

0:34:410:34:46

Redemptorist fathers, Ecumenical gunslingers

0:34:460:34:49

fired off bloodthirsty tales

0:34:490:34:51

full of pain, fire and, of course, brimstone,

0:34:510:34:55

reminding us of the extreme pain to be endured in Hell

0:34:550:34:59

should we buck the system.

0:34:590:35:02

We were not encouraged to doubt or question.

0:35:020:35:06

We were too busy anyway confessing our sins in wooden boxes

0:35:060:35:11

and dozing off during the interminable high masses

0:35:110:35:13

conducted in Latin.

0:35:130:35:14

But we knew that Jesus loved us.

0:35:180:35:22

MUSIC: Ecce Sacerdos Magnus, Wab 13

0:35:220:35:25

I eventually ended up in the cathedral choir.

0:35:290:35:33

On certain ceremonial occasions,

0:35:350:35:37

the Bishop of Derry was required to make a grand entrance

0:35:370:35:41

accompanied by the choir belting out the chorale Ecce Sacerdos.

0:35:410:35:47

This was his signature tune.

0:35:470:35:50

The choir stood poised in the balcony,

0:35:500:35:53

the Bishop entered directly below us.

0:35:530:35:56

A priest planted on the altar would signal the choirmaster

0:35:560:36:00

when the Bishop was about to enter.

0:36:000:36:02

The choirmaster, his back to the altar,

0:36:020:36:05

would receive the signal through wing mirrors

0:36:050:36:08

thoughtfully provided on the sides of the church organ.

0:36:080:36:12

Hand signals executed, organ pumped,

0:36:120:36:16

choir screeching the Bishop's signature tune,

0:36:160:36:19

the puffed-up prelate would stride confidently

0:36:190:36:22

through the gathered faithful,

0:36:220:36:25

allowing a selected few to lightly touch his garments.

0:36:250:36:28

I thought to myself...

0:36:300:36:32

"This isn't religion!

0:36:320:36:34

"This is show business!"

0:36:340:36:36

HYMN CONTINUES

0:36:360:36:38

I believed I was the only person who thought that way, although I'm sure

0:36:420:36:46

there were one or two other heretics putting a brave face on it.

0:36:460:36:50

The Bogside was probably

0:36:540:36:56

the most Irish neighbourhood in Northern Ireland,

0:36:560:36:59

a veritable land that time forgot.

0:36:590:37:01

A chunk of Thackeray's Ireland that somehow clung on.

0:37:030:37:06

Originally occupied by the poor from Donegal,

0:37:070:37:10

who came to the city in search of any kind of work,

0:37:100:37:13

until the Troubles, the area retained a unique identity.

0:37:130:37:18

Things were always on the boil, and no wonder.

0:37:190:37:23

Within 400 yards of any given spot were 40 bars, six band sheds,

0:37:230:37:30

boxing clubs, four doss-houses,

0:37:300:37:34

rag stores and an assortment of boys' clubs, a distillery,

0:37:340:37:40

not to mention a population of pigs, sheep, a slaughterhouse

0:37:400:37:44

and six football teams.

0:37:440:37:46

Most Irish of all was the fact that everybody had nicknames.

0:37:520:37:56

This was part of the last traces of an Irish oral tradition,

0:37:560:38:01

lingering from ancestral days in Donegal,

0:38:010:38:05

a tradition that the coming Troubles would inevitably see off.

0:38:050:38:08

The likes of Ned the Chronicle, Dan the Blinker, Stucco Virgin

0:38:120:38:18

and Scriffin-tail McDermott gone forever.

0:38:180:38:23

At the cruder end of the scale resided Cock Coyle, Mickey No Arse,

0:38:250:38:30

Fart McDade and a man who the women referred to as Hughie Bad Word,

0:38:300:38:37

so-called because of his lack of vocabulary.

0:38:370:38:40

His name, of course, was Hughie Fuck.

0:38:400:38:43

GULLS CALL

0:38:440:38:46

Nicknames survived amongst the dockers,

0:38:480:38:50

who used them in their pay books.

0:38:500:38:52

Since many of them shared the same family name,

0:38:520:38:55

it helped ease the confusion.

0:38:550:38:58

Well, almost.

0:38:580:39:00

I can testify to this,

0:39:050:39:07

as I once had the dangerous job of calculating their wages.

0:39:070:39:11

Money for working in the rain, money for early starts,

0:39:130:39:17

late starts, night working, double shifts.

0:39:170:39:22

I was 18 years old and invariably got their wages wrong.

0:39:220:39:27

Payday came Thursday lunchtime, followed by pub time,

0:39:270:39:31

followed by angry dockers short on their wages

0:39:310:39:35

patrolling the streets and bars looking for the pay clerk

0:39:350:39:38

who'd got it wrong again.

0:39:380:39:41

That was me.

0:39:410:39:42

I learnt to make myself scarce.

0:39:430:39:46

Thursday afternoon, I retired to the local cinema for my own safety.

0:39:460:39:50

Tough men didn't like me for it.

0:39:530:39:55

As they unloaded the ship's cargo, they never missed an opportunity,

0:39:550:39:59

often swinging the crane hook at me

0:39:590:40:01

when I patrolled the deck of the ship.

0:40:010:40:04

Then would come a sudden warning shout

0:40:040:40:06

which prompted me to duck sharply.

0:40:060:40:09

I complained about this to my boss -

0:40:090:40:12

"Those fuckers are trying to kill me."

0:40:120:40:14

He looked over his glasses. "Do they warn you?" he said.

0:40:160:40:20

"Well, yes," I reluctantly replied.

0:40:200:40:25

He turned back to his newspaper and said, "Worry when they don't."

0:40:250:40:31

The streets were occupied by urgent marching feet,

0:41:050:41:09

Laurel and Hardy bowler hats, ceremonial swords and lurid sashes.

0:41:090:41:16

Banners fluttering from lofty poles

0:41:160:41:19

commemorated centuries-old deeds that I knew nothing about.

0:41:190:41:23

Although it was an unrelenting affirmation

0:41:240:41:27

of superiority and supremacy,

0:41:270:41:30

I could look past the posturing because I liked the music.

0:41:300:41:34

But the marching musicians were a mixed bag.

0:41:350:41:39

Some seemed joyless, others appeared angry,

0:41:390:41:43

and yet others in a kind of frenzy.

0:41:430:41:46

It was a stern kind of fun.

0:41:460:41:48

One of the sword carriers struck me forcibly

0:41:550:41:58

on my exposed short-trousered leg

0:41:580:42:01

for momentarily stepping off the footpath.

0:42:010:42:04

This affected me greatly, causing my resignation from parade watching.

0:42:040:42:09

I retreated to the cinema, where I found real heroes.

0:42:120:42:16

GUNFIRE

0:42:160:42:19

Heroes like Burt Lancaster.

0:42:190:42:21

Men who did what men had to do.

0:42:230:42:26

Lone plains drifters who sought to escape a troubled past.

0:42:330:42:37

Men who knew no other way than to be true to themselves.

0:42:370:42:41

-Where's Owen?

-Went with Lee over to the telegraph.

0:42:410:42:44

GUNFIRE

0:42:440:42:45

-You hear that? Somebody's in trouble.

-Take some men and go see.

0:42:450:42:49

And these cowboys sounded vaguely familiar too,

0:42:490:42:52

sounded like my elderly uncles in Donegal,

0:42:520:42:55

who called their horses "hosses"

0:42:550:42:57

and talked of "vittles" and "critters" too.

0:42:570:43:01

Go around the other side. Try to sneak up behind him. I'll cover you.

0:43:010:43:04

It took some time for me to realise that my uncles spoke that way

0:43:060:43:10

because their people before them had been weaned off the Irish language

0:43:100:43:14

and had learned their English mostly from Ulster Scots planters.

0:43:140:43:19

Imagine how surprised I was

0:43:200:43:23

when I learnt that Burt Lancaster was an Ulster Scot.

0:43:230:43:26

You can hear the hard-clipped cadences of a Belfast accent.

0:43:340:43:38

He had spent his childhood in New York,

0:43:380:43:40

surrounded by his Belfast-born extended family.

0:43:400:43:44

I finally realised that

0:43:510:43:53

the very qualities I admired in the likes of Burt Lancaster -

0:43:530:43:57

the unwillingness to compromise, the iron determination

0:43:570:44:02

and the unyielding conviction - those were the same engines

0:44:020:44:07

that fired the marchers outside on the streets.

0:44:070:44:11

These were the same people.

0:44:120:44:14

I always could outdraw you, Owen.

0:44:140:44:17

I'll spot you, then. But it won't change anything.

0:44:170:44:20

Come on out.

0:44:200:44:21

Or do I have to come in and get you?

0:44:220:44:24

No wonder the cowboys and Indians didn't get along.

0:44:240:44:28

St Patrick's Day, 1952.

0:44:390:44:42

Just to the right of this photograph, above the spectators,

0:44:440:44:47

I am a seven-year-old boy staring out of my upstairs window.

0:44:470:44:51

Until recently, when I was shown this photograph,

0:44:580:45:02

I wasn't sure if I had actually witnessed this or not.

0:45:020:45:05

It's a photo of a friend of mine being attacked by the police.

0:45:050:45:10

She's 13 years old.

0:45:100:45:11

I wasn't sure if I'd seen this or not

0:45:160:45:18

because I didn't believe it at the time

0:45:180:45:20

and the shock seemed to partially erase it from my mind.

0:45:200:45:23

Why would the police attack children with such force

0:45:250:45:27

for no apparent reason?

0:45:270:45:29

Only years later did it become clear

0:45:310:45:34

that the raised baton was the accepted method of keeping in line

0:45:340:45:38

the poorly educated and the naive young.

0:45:380:45:41

But how would police handle educated people?

0:45:430:45:46

Time would tell.

0:45:460:45:48

CHORAL MUSIC

0:45:480:45:52

This scene was a harbinger of things to come.

0:45:580:46:01

And 1969 simmered in the distance.

0:46:040:46:09

We will be able to feed up that day with all of God's children,

0:46:210:46:25

black men and white men, Jews and Gentiles, Protestants and Catholics

0:46:250:46:30

will be able to join hands and sing

0:46:300:46:33

-in the words of the old negro spiritual, "Free at last."

-Yes!

0:46:330:46:36

"Free at last! Thank God Almighty, we are free at last!"

0:46:360:46:40

CHEERING

0:46:400:46:42

Hallelujah!

0:46:460:46:47

These were interesting times.

0:46:510:46:53

The tectonic plates were shifting.

0:46:550:46:57

Mr Burt Lancaster.

0:46:570:47:01

And here he is again, the Belfast cowboy,

0:47:010:47:04

this time seeming to speak directly to us.

0:47:040:47:08

We recognise that it is not only in America

0:47:110:47:14

that the battle for freedom and dignity of peoples is being waged.

0:47:140:47:18

The struggle toward freedom on the part of the previously subjugated

0:47:180:47:23

is occurring in capitals and villages all over the world.

0:47:230:47:27

It is on our awareness of what this struggle means

0:47:270:47:31

and in the degree of our dedication to it

0:47:310:47:34

that our futures and the future of the world depend.

0:47:340:47:39

APPLAUSE

0:47:410:47:43

John Fitzgerald Kennedy - in our eyes, practically an Irishman -

0:47:450:47:50

was President of the United States. Doors seemed to be opening.

0:47:500:47:55

For the first time,

0:47:560:47:57

people felt they had access to the means of achieving their dreams.

0:47:570:48:03

But for all that, the assassination of Kennedy later that year

0:48:030:48:07

brought home to us that wherever there was light,

0:48:070:48:09

darkness wasn't far behind.

0:48:090:48:11

Because these were also ugly times.

0:48:140:48:17

Nevertheless, people felt that power was drifting their way,

0:48:170:48:22

that they had a say.

0:48:220:48:23

Dramatic pictures crashed in from the outside world.

0:48:250:48:29

People doing stuff on the newsreels and on the TV set

0:48:290:48:33

that I watched through the window of the local electrical shop.

0:48:330:48:37

People rocking the boat!

0:48:390:48:41

And then we had a TV of our own.

0:48:420:48:45

Soon I recognised some of the people on the screen.

0:48:450:48:48

Young local firebrands had more in common with Martin Luther King

0:48:490:48:53

than with Eamon de Valera.

0:48:530:48:54

People of my own age were on the streets, led by others,

0:48:560:48:59

who were brighter, who had been to university and come back pissed off

0:48:590:49:03

by what they had found out about the country they lived in.

0:49:030:49:07

The total unionist vote in Londonderry is 9,000.

0:49:080:49:12

And these votes put a total of 12 members in the City Council.

0:49:140:49:18

The total nationalist vote is 14,000

0:49:200:49:24

and these folks put in eight members.

0:49:240:49:27

Now, note the curious situation.

0:49:280:49:31

I didn't hit the streets. I was too scared.

0:49:310:49:35

But I knew those who did and admired their pluck.

0:49:350:49:38

It all seemed glorious, just and right.

0:49:400:49:44

Nothing short of a people's revolution in the streets,

0:49:440:49:47

involving, crucially, a number of Protestants

0:49:470:49:49

who realised that something had to be done.

0:49:490:49:52

I would certainly hope that in conducting this march

0:49:520:49:55

that we will act in a responsible manner.

0:49:550:49:58

I even saw my neighbours in their good suits,

0:49:580:50:01

being reasonable with the authorities.

0:50:010:50:04

But authority hit back

0:50:040:50:06

and something had started that was never going to stop.

0:50:060:50:10

The reasonable approach didn't seem to work.

0:50:100:50:14

Those who didn't want any trouble were the first to get it.

0:50:140:50:18

Firstly, bloodied heads, with worse to come.

0:50:200:50:24

It happened very quickly.

0:50:240:50:25

All too soon, it turned rotten.

0:50:260:50:30

Unlike in Washington, where President Kennedy listened to

0:50:310:50:35

and encouraged those who sought their civil rights,

0:50:350:50:39

the powers that be here were mainly blind to the legitimacy

0:50:390:50:44

of what was going on in the streets, creating a dangerous vacuum.

0:50:440:50:49

Old sores were opened, old arguments revived.

0:50:490:50:52

Aspirations that had been thought long dead had life in them still.

0:50:520:50:57

The well-meaning and the just slipped quietly away.

0:50:580:51:02

Streets emptied after dark and the nightmare began.

0:51:020:51:07

Severe measures were called for.

0:51:070:51:09

The British Army consulted the Empire manual

0:51:090:51:12

and decided to do what had always been done,

0:51:120:51:16

but they forgot that we were British too.

0:51:160:51:20

They forgot about the all-seeing eye of television.

0:51:200:51:25

Shadows lengthened and the descent into darkness began.

0:51:250:51:29

All the fine words were left blowing in the wind.

0:51:290:51:32

I didn't care much for what I saw

0:51:320:51:35

and decided to defect to Canada.

0:51:350:51:37

From 3,000 miles away,

0:51:460:51:49

I saw that my people, and the streets, were still on television

0:51:490:51:54

but the streets were on fire.

0:51:540:51:56

# Cool wind blowing on the street tonight

0:52:160:52:20

# Trying to turn a wrong to a right

0:52:200:52:23

# I listen now but the words are gone

0:52:270:52:32

# All the songs have been sung

0:52:320:52:35

# Close your eyes

0:52:370:52:41

# Close your eyes

0:52:420:52:47

# And dream

0:52:470:52:49

# When the flag goes down

0:52:530:52:56

# There's no turning back for this town

0:52:570:53:01

# Close your eyes

0:53:020:53:06

# Close your eyes

0:53:080:53:13

# And dream

0:53:130:53:16

# Out on the streets

0:53:200:53:23

# A city's dreaming

0:53:230:53:29

# Out on the streets

0:53:320:53:35

# A city's dreaming

0:53:350:53:41

# Dreaming

0:53:420:53:47

# Even in this darkest place

0:53:590:54:02

# I close my eyes and see your face

0:54:020:54:07

# Even in this darkest night

0:54:110:54:13

# I'm reaching out and I'm searching for the light

0:54:130:54:18

# Close your eyes

0:54:190:54:24

# Close your eyes

0:54:250:54:29

# And dream

0:54:300:54:32

# Out on the streets

0:54:380:54:41

# A city's dreaming

0:54:410:54:46

# Out on the streets

0:54:490:54:52

# A city's dreaming

0:54:520:54:58

# Dreaming

0:54:590:55:04

# Dreaming

0:55:050:55:13

# Close your eyes

0:55:450:55:50

# And dream. #

0:55:500:55:53

As a child by the window, I couldn't have imagined what lay ahead.

0:56:210:56:27

Today, I'm that same child...

0:56:330:56:36

..looking out that same window

0:56:370:56:41

upon a city that has often been declared down and out.

0:56:410:56:45

Now I see a people with hope, energy and positivity in their hearts.

0:56:470:56:51

I hope they're right.

0:56:530:56:55

The past is behind us and the future holds out a helping hand.

0:56:580:57:03

A fellow Derryman put it like this.

0:57:070:57:10

"Human beings suffer, they torture one another,

0:57:130:57:17

"they get hurt and get hard.

0:57:170:57:20

"No poem or play or song can fully right a wrong inflicted or endured."

0:57:230:57:30

History says, don't hope on this side of the grave

0:57:330:57:39

But then, once in a lifetime

0:57:390:57:41

The longed-for tidal wave of justice can rise up

0:57:410:57:46

And hope and history rhyme.

0:57:460:57:48

So hope for a great sea change on the far side of revenge

0:57:500:57:55

Believe that a further shore is reachable from here.

0:57:550:57:59

Believe in miracles and cures and healing wells.

0:57:590:58:04

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