In Search of Arcadia


In Search of Arcadia

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There is a certain magical stretch of the Thames in London

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that was at the centre of an 18th century cultural movement

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that changed our British landscapes forever.

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At the heart of it was a fascination with the ancient concept of Arcadia,

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where man and nature lived in perfect pastoral harmony.

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This is where Sir Walpole described that Kent jumped the fence and saw

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that all nature was a garden.

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A radical group of writers and artists

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completely overturned the idea

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of what comprised a beautiful landscape

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and challenged the formality of the day.

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It's emphasising the complete power of the monarch.

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Their legacy can still be seen around the world.

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So who were these visionaries

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at the heart of this transformative movement?

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Pope is enormously famous,

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enormously influential at this period.

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And where did their inspiration come from?

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This is the classical tradition being fantastically realised

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by the 18th century imagination.

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I'm Janina Ramirez,

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and I'm going to explore their world along the Thames,

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visit their houses, gardens and curious creations

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and discover why their ideas are still so relevant today...

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I want all the advantages of the city,

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and all the...many of the advantages

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of living where nature is still visible.

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..as I go in search of Arcadia.

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Arcadia.

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A vision of pastoral bliss

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where man and nature lived in harmony.

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It was the ancient Greeks

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that first came up with the idea of Arcadia,

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and it's fascinated people ever since.

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This Greek mythology and the idea of a pastoral Eden

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led ancient poets like Virgil to write poems that idealised Arcadia,

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developing a philosophy that has lasted for centuries.

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And in Britain, in the 18th century,

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this seductive philosophy inspired an explosion of interest in Arcadian

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themes. This was expressed across all the arts - in poetry, writing,

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painting, architecture and garden design.

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And that's what I want to explore in this programme.

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In the early 1700s,

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an extraordinary group of people

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were drawn here by royalty, nobility,

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and by the beauty of this stretch of the river.

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They tried to transform this Thames landscape into an Arcadian idyll.

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To help me understand what inspired them,

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I'm starting my journey with an iconic image.

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This is one of the most important and famous

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of the Arcadian paintings.

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It's Et In Arcadia Ego

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by Nicholas Poussin,

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painted in 1638.

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Everything about this painting gives that impression of harmony.

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There's the frame,

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all the way around the edge of these beautiful trees,

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and mountains, and the grass.

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So, the landscape is part of this Arcadian idea,

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but so are the figures.

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They are part of the trees, of the mountains,

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that embrace them and surround them.

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Man and nature, harmonised.

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It's not hard to see why this painting has inspired

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so many people.

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This is Garrick's Temple.

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It marks the start of the Arcadian Thames -

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a 12-mile stretch of river that flows through

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a classically inspired landscape.

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This unique part of the river winds its way past Hampton Court,

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through Twickenham, Richmond and Kew,

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and then finally on to Chiswick.

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I'll be travelling down the river by boat with John Bailey,

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waterman and historian.

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We'll be experiencing the essence of the river,

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while I'm discovering more

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about the people at the heart of this revolution -

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where they lived and what they did to transform this landscape.

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Hey! You're here.

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We're starting our journey together, on a traditional Thames wherry.

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Right, let me get the rope and pull you up.

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-OK.

-There we go!

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-Thank you. Lovely seeing you.

-Oh, it's good to see you.

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Right, have you got your fishing stuff with you?

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So, I've got my fishing stuff and I've got a copy of my very favourite

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book for you. It's Izaak Walton's The Compleat Angler.

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You'll have heard of it, obviously,

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the most famous fishing book there has ever been.

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The Compleat Angler was written by Izaak Walton

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and was published in 1653.

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It's an English literary classic

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and is one of the first books to call for responsible management

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of the natural world.

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Walton believed that being at one with nature was key to

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spiritual enlightenment.

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John, I want to know why is it that this book has done so well?

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Hasn't it been reprinted something like 400 times?

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400 times over 300, 400 years.

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Obviously, there's a lot of good fishing stuff in there.

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-Right.

-And really surprisingly good fishing stuff.

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-It's usable as a fishing manual?

-It is, it is.

-Yeah?

-Even today.

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I mean, there are some beautiful, beautiful bits in it for the angler.

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I think it's been so successful, Janina,

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because over centuries and centuries people have just been able to dip

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into it, and to take from it, in a way, what they want to take from it.

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It's this beautiful mix of fishing,

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countryside, fun, friendship, advice.

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I mean, I'm sure Izaak didn't expect it to be such a massive,

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massive success.

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Izaak Walton was an Anglican and a deeply religious man.

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His faith was reflected

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in his enthusiastic praise of the beauty of the countryside

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and the human place within it.

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The book takes the form of a dialogue between a fisherman,

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a hunter and a falconer,

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mixed with poems, songs and practical advice on fishing.

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This is a dialogue between Piscator and Venator,

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between the fisherman and the hunter.

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And Izaak is trying, through the words of the Piscator,

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to create this...this idyll

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that the angler experiences and loves.

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And I think this is what's kept it going, you know,

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being...made it so successful throughout the centuries,

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because of course it was one of Wordsworth's favourite books.

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If you look in there, you'll find my bookmark.

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-Oh, yeah.

-And one of my favourite little songs in there...

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I don't expect you to sing it, but you might like...

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I don't know how to sing it, but I can certainly read it.

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This one, the Milkmaid's Song?

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Yeah, just a start, gives you a...

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-..a taste of what Walton's about.

-OK.

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RECITES: Come live with me and be my love

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And we will all the pleasures prove

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That valleys, groves or hills or fields or woods

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And steepy mountains yields.

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That's gorgeous. Do you know what I like it?

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I like the fact that it's...

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It roots it firmly in the British landscape.

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At the time of its publication,

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England was still recovering from the brutality of civil war

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and was mired in political chaos.

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The king had been beheaded and the country was ruled as a republic,

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yet Walton proposed that time spent in nature,

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enjoying the simple pleasure of angling and pastoral surroundings,

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could bring about a sense of wellbeing.

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For Walton, fishing was the pastime of sane men

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in a world of apparent insanity.

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Izaak Walton and his friends, they feel physically threatened,

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they are seeing their religion threatened,

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because of course they were Anglican

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and Cromwell was a strict Puritan, as you know.

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So, in some ways, this book was, if you like,

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a release for Walton.

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I think he probably wrote it at this particular time because there was a

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deep need in him to portray something that was pastoral,

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Arcadian.

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There's so much passion, it's almost a spirituality.

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See, that's what fascinates me about it.

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I think it's this idea that it's a philosophy

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in the absence of a good, solid religious foundation,

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which is what sort of happens in the late 17th century.

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And so, under the guise of an angling book,

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you have these deep spiritual insights into the relationship

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between man and nature, don't you?

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-Right.

-What are you off to do now?

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Well, I'm off to meet my great friend

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who is an expert at fishing and an expert on Izaak Walton,

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and we're going to have a lovely bucolic afternoon.

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-Going to go that way?

-Yeah.

-OK.

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In many ways, The Compleat Angler

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presented a model of how to live rather than how to fish.

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-I'll see you in a bit.

-Bye.

-Bye.

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John is heading to the river to experience Walton's philosophy

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first-hand with fellow angler Keith Elliott.

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Hello, John.

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-You've even brought me a chair.

-Yep.

-What have you caught?

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I am giving a very good demonstration of why it's called

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fishing rather than catching at the moment, actually.

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What am I going to fish? A float or a feeder?

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I wouldn't bother with a float, actually.

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I think the answer is a feeder, fish it out and see what comes from it.

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-And we'll have a natter.

-Yes.

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So we're just here for a social.

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Excellent.

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Right, maestro, I'm ready to go.

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OK, I would have thought about a third of the way across.

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-I can't cast that far.

-I think you'll...

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you'll catch nothing there, just as much as you would two thirds,

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except that it means less winding in.

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Back in the 17th century,

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the Thames was a means

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for transporting people and goods through London,

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but it was also a refuge

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from the plague, smoke and pollution of the city.

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Sitting here today, Keith,

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it brings home to you what Walton really was about.

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Yes, he was a fisherman, but it's that lovely oneness with nature,

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it's that lovely synchronicity.

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Oh, I thought you had a fish.

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-It's the worm.

-Oh, it's the worm!

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Not that big a fish, come on.

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It's that oneness, isn't it,

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with the natural world that I suppose even then, in 1653,

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Walton felt was disappearing or being forgotten?

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Well, since we're here, we might as well look at it.

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When he was talking about, in this, about...when there was,

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you know, Auceps and Venator and Piscator,

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and he was talking about why he was doing it,

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and I think it was Auceps who was saying, you know,

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"Why do they go fishing?"

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Yeah, he said, "And I profess myself a falconer

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"and have heard many grave, serious men pity them.

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" 'Tis such a heavy, contemptible, dull recreation."

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You know? And he says, "You know, gentlemen,

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" 'tis an easy thing to scoff at any art or recreation.

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"A little wit mixed with ill nature, confidence and malice will do it."

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And then he talks about why he does it.

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And he says, "Let me tell you, sir,

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"there have been many men that by others are taken to be grave

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"and serious men which we condemn and pity,

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"men that are taken to be grave because nature has made them

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"of a sour complexion. Money-getting men,

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"men that spend all their time

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"first in getting and next in anxious care to keep it,

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"men that are condemned to be rich

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"and then always busy and discontented.

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"For these poor rich men, we anglers pity them perfectly."

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I mean, Walton put it very well, didn't he?

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About it wasn't about catching fish, it was just the relaxation.

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Fishing has always been a balm for the soul.

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I think it's been a means of escape for anglers when they've been

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traumatised or stressed and, of course,

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when Walton was writing The Compleat Angler in the 1650s,

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it must have been easily the most terrifying time of his life.

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Seven years after the publication of Walton's book,

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the monarchy was restored to the throne in 1660.

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In the years that followed,

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the nation became more politically settled.

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Yet despite Walton's book becoming fashionable,

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his idea of living in harmony with nature was still out of step

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with other tastemakers of the time.

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The next destination on my Arcadian journey is one of the most famous

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historic palaces in London.

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In the late 17th century,

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joint monarchs William III and Mary II embarked

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on a massive rebuilding project here, at Hampton Court.

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They commissioned Sir Christopher Wren to rebuild

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the palace in a grand baroque style,

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reminiscent of the great European courts.

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This was to be a grand statement for a reformed, powerful monarchy.

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And it needed a garden to match.

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MUSIC: Zadok the Priest by George Frideric Handel

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William III ordered the privy gardens to be remodelled

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in a formal French or Dutch style,

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inspired by the grand gardens of Versailles.

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The grass was cut into intricate patterns with a background

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of sand and gravel,

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and yew trees and hollies were shaped into cones and globes.

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This really is nature ordered, controlled, contained,

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suppressed even.

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It's emphasising the complete power and authority of the monarch over

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everything, even the natural world.

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Within just a few years of the garden's completion in 1702,

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formal gardens in the baroque style began to fall out of fashion.

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Did you catch anything?

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Absolutely nothing.

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This was the beginning of the Age of Enlightenment,

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a movement which placed reason at the centre of ideas about politics,

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philosophy and science.

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Society was ready for change.

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I did some research before I came out with you on the river, and...

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So there's these two very well-known literary geniuses -

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Joseph Addison and Alexander Pope -

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and they write articles in newspapers

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about ten years later - 1712, 1713 -

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in which they satirise these sorts of formal gardens.

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You think of them as being interested in poetic themes

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and big ideas, but in this case,

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they're actually talking about the taste,

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the fashion for these clipped gardens.

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The first quote

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is Joseph Addison in the Spectator in 1712.

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"Our British gardeners, on the contrary,

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"instead of humouring nature,

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"love to deviate from it as much as possible.

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"Our trees rise in cones, globes and pyramids.

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"We see the marks of scissors upon every plant and bush."

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So Addison's poking fun at it.

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Pope in the Guardian in 1713, he takes it on another step.

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He makes a link back to something else,

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something that maybe poets and painters and garden designers

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should be aspiring to, which is the taste of the ancients.

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He says,

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"There's certainly something in the amiable simplicity of unadorned

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"nature that spreads over the mind a more noble sort of tranquillity

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"and a loftier sensation of pleasure

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"than can be raised from the nicer scenes of art.

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"This was the taste of the ancients in their gardens.

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"How contrary to this simplicity is the modern practice of gardening?

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"We seem to make it our study to recede from nature."

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So again, he's talking about receding from nature,

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Addison's talking about deviating from nature,

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but Pope takes it a step further.

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He's saying it's actually about more than just gardening,

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that what we want to be replicating in our outdoor spaces is something

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that's more like this sort of history painting,

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these wonderful works like the Poussin,

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Et In Arcadia Ego, where it's man and nature in harmony,

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everything's loose, everything's idyllic.

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And also, going back to the taste of the ancients -

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in their poetry - going back to Virgil,

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going back to pastoral poems that, looking at those exemplars,

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we should be making that happen in our gardens as well.

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So it's a whole philosophy.

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Exactly. It's a whole philosophy, and I think people nowadays tend to

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separate out these things -

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art, painting, literature - from gardening.

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In this time, it was serious stuff.

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It was about taste,

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it was about creating vistas in the landscape that were like living

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paintings. So what do you want your living paintings to look like?

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Do you want them all clipped and constrained and cut with scissors,

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or do you want them to go back to this taste of the ancients?

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-Let nature breathe.

-Exactly.

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-All right, hold on.

-OK, we're nearly there.

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-Right.

-Right.

-Let's go.

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Pope and Addison's comments in the newspapers were dismissive of formal

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gardens like those at Hampton Court and suggested that people should

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create gardens to look natural and classical.

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I will see you later.

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See you later!

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So why was Alexander Pope, an 18th-century poet,

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writing so scathingly about formal gardens?

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And where does he fit into our story?

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Pope was part of a new progressive literary set, the Augustans.

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Known for their satire and wit,

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they were obsessed by the work of Virgil and Homer.

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To find out more about Pope, I'm meeting Ross Wilson,

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an expert in 18th-century literature...

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-Hi, Ross.

-Hello.

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..in a pub in Twickenham that Pope may have visited himself.

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I can't believe we're sat possibly where Alexander Pope would have sat.

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Indeed, yeah. He didn't live far away from here.

0:20:180:20:20

So where the great mind sat.

0:20:200:20:22

Indeed, yeah, yeah.

0:20:220:20:23

He really was the most successful poet certainly of the first half

0:20:230:20:26

of the 18th century.

0:20:260:20:28

There's particular poems that he's famous for, isn't he?

0:20:280:20:30

What are his really big ones?

0:20:300:20:32

That's right. It's fair to say

0:20:320:20:33

that many people today wouldn't necessarily know

0:20:330:20:37

of Pope's works directly,

0:20:370:20:39

but it's almost certain that they would have heard

0:20:390:20:41

some of Pope's lines.

0:20:410:20:42

So, the line "Eternal sunshine of the spotless mind", of course,

0:20:420:20:46

lent a title to a film.

0:20:460:20:50

"A little learning is a dangerous thing" - very true.

0:20:500:20:52

And "Fools rush in where angels fear to tread", and so on.

0:20:520:20:55

-He's such a fascinating character to me, though.

-Absolutely.

0:20:550:20:58

Because, to me, he symbolises

0:20:580:21:00

the triumph of the underdog in many ways.

0:21:000:21:02

That's right, that's right.

0:21:020:21:04

He was very ill as a child and then really throughout his life.

0:21:040:21:09

He contracted a disease called Pott's disease,

0:21:090:21:11

so tuberculosis of the bone, which left him stunted and hunchbacked,

0:21:110:21:17

afflicted by crippling shortness of breath and pains

0:21:170:21:21

throughout his life.

0:21:210:21:22

And he was also from a Roman Catholic family,

0:21:220:21:25

which at that period had very significant disadvantages,

0:21:250:21:30

so for instance Roman Catholics were barred

0:21:300:21:33

from living within ten miles

0:21:330:21:35

of the Cities of London and Westminster.

0:21:350:21:37

I find that amazing.

0:21:370:21:38

So Catholics simply could not live in the centre, they had to move out.

0:21:380:21:42

Pope's father moved his family from Hammersmith

0:21:420:21:45

to Binfield, in Berkshire,

0:21:450:21:46

to escape the anti-Catholic prejudice.

0:21:460:21:48

But it enabled Pope to form an attachment to Windsor Forest,

0:21:480:21:52

the subject of one of his first poems.

0:21:520:21:54

So Binfield is very close to Windsor Forest.

0:21:540:21:57

It's in fact surrounded by Windsor Forest,

0:21:570:22:00

which is one of his great early poems of 1713,

0:22:000:22:04

a very important pastoral poem.

0:22:040:22:06

And in terms of the importance of the pastorals, they were popular,

0:22:060:22:10

were they, these poems?

0:22:100:22:11

-They got a readership?

-That's right,

0:22:110:22:13

so really it's the pastorals, in many ways,

0:22:130:22:15

which he wrote at the age of only 16,

0:22:150:22:17

that launched Pope's career that make him celebrated as a poet.

0:22:170:22:22

And what Pope does in those poems is really make the Thames,

0:22:220:22:28

make around here a suitable setting for pastoral poetry.

0:22:280:22:33

So we could say, really, that Pope's responsible for the eulogising

0:22:330:22:36

of the Thames, elevating it to this almost classical status.

0:22:360:22:40

Yeah, so again, his pastorals are all set on the banks of the Thames.

0:22:400:22:45

And he's insistent not only in comparing the Thames

0:22:450:22:49

to the eulogised rivers of classical antiquity and of Europe and so on,

0:22:490:22:54

but actually saying that the Thames is more beautiful.

0:22:540:22:56

Alexander Pope's work was now influencing

0:23:010:23:03

other forward-thinking Augustan writers of the day,

0:23:030:23:06

friends like dramatist John Gay,

0:23:060:23:09

who went on to write The Beggar's Opera

0:23:090:23:11

and Jonathan Swift, who wrote Gulliver's Travels.

0:23:110:23:13

They were known as the three Yahoos of Twickenham.

0:23:130:23:16

It's wonderful, because for someone that seems to have everything

0:23:160:23:19

against him - looks-wise, appearance-wise,

0:23:190:23:21

but also socially and in terms of him being a Catholic -

0:23:210:23:25

his celebrity is unparalleled, isn't it?

0:23:250:23:29

And Pope's influence is enormous as well.

0:23:290:23:31

So there are a whole host of imitators

0:23:310:23:33

throughout the 18th century,

0:23:330:23:35

and he comes very much to dictate the literary taste

0:23:350:23:38

of the middle years of the 18th-century certainly.

0:23:380:23:41

So Pope is enormously famous,

0:23:410:23:43

enormously influential at this period.

0:23:430:23:46

Pope's love of the classics inspired him to translate

0:23:460:23:49

Homer's Iliad, which earned him a huge sum of money.

0:23:490:23:52

His new-found wealth enabled him to lease a house and a five-acre plot

0:23:520:23:56

of land here, in Twickenham, in 1719.

0:23:560:23:59

It was to become his retreat, his Tusculum as he called it,

0:23:590:24:03

and the gardens became famous.

0:24:030:24:05

He develops the house into this Palladian villa

0:24:050:24:08

that fronts the Thames

0:24:080:24:10

and has a kind of lawn leading onto the Thames.

0:24:100:24:13

So what's also important, I think,

0:24:130:24:15

is Pope doesn't just create

0:24:150:24:17

this landscape in his imagination or in his poems,

0:24:170:24:20

he invests in a plot in Twickenham on the Thames, deliberately so,

0:24:200:24:25

and then cultivates it, creates...

0:24:250:24:28

-That's right.

-..a poetic scene in those five acres.

0:24:280:24:31

Yep. And there's a considerable overlap, actually,

0:24:310:24:34

between how Pope thinks about poetry

0:24:340:24:36

and how he thinks about gardening,

0:24:360:24:38

so the kind of unaffected simplicity,

0:24:380:24:41

the free natural taste that is embodied in his garden,

0:24:410:24:46

and all these things are important to Pope,

0:24:460:24:49

and he's really very fond of what he's managed to achieve there.

0:24:490:24:53

Pope's house and gardens in Twickenham were demolished

0:24:580:25:00

years ago and now a school stands on the site, but there is one

0:25:000:25:04

extraordinary feature of Pope's original estate that remains.

0:25:040:25:08

This road was here in the 18th century,

0:25:090:25:12

but Pope had a problem because his house was on one side

0:25:120:25:16

and his gardens were on the other,

0:25:160:25:19

but he came up with a novel solution

0:25:190:25:21

and built an underground walkway beneath the road.

0:25:210:25:25

But this wasn't just a functional subway.

0:25:340:25:36

What started out as a plain brick passageway was transformed by Pope

0:25:360:25:40

into an imitation of a natural cavern.

0:25:400:25:42

This underground passage, known as Pope's grotto, embodies his love

0:25:510:25:56

of the classics.

0:25:560:25:58

It's fashioned in a true Arcadian style.

0:25:580:26:01

Pope even wrote in one of his letters,

0:26:010:26:04

"Were it to have nymphs, it would be complete in everything."

0:26:040:26:07

It's estimated that, over the course of his lifetime, he embedded

0:26:100:26:14

over 30 tonnes of minerals, rocks and curiosities in the walls here.

0:26:140:26:19

The grotto has now fallen into disrepair,

0:26:190:26:21

and Angela Kidner is part of a group

0:26:210:26:24

planning to restore it to its former glory.

0:26:240:26:27

-Hello.

-Hi!

0:26:270:26:29

Angela, how lovely to see you.

0:26:290:26:30

-And you.

-Which way are we going? This way?

-This way.

0:26:300:26:33

Oh, wow, so, we're in...

0:26:370:26:39

We're in the north chamber.

0:26:390:26:41

The north chamber.

0:26:410:26:42

-Because there's a number, aren't there?

-There are.

0:26:420:26:44

There are two chambers,

0:26:440:26:45

there's a central corridor and there's the entrance chamber,

0:26:450:26:49

which we've just passed through.

0:26:490:26:51

So, really, what we can see through there,

0:26:510:26:53

that existing building and door, that wouldn't have been there?

0:26:530:26:56

No, you would have seen a sloping green lawn,

0:26:560:26:59

there would have been the river glinting,

0:26:590:27:01

boats passing up and down - a very busy river -

0:27:010:27:03

and the light flooding from Ham Lands on the opposite side.

0:27:030:27:08

So all of this would have been quite light.

0:27:080:27:10

And why did Pope build this?

0:27:100:27:12

Well, the first reason was a practical one.

0:27:120:27:14

He needed to get to his garden on the other side of the highway.

0:27:140:27:18

The second was that he was fascinated by the classicists

0:27:180:27:23

and also by the burgeoning fashion for the natural landscape,

0:27:230:27:30

and so he wanted to create something

0:27:300:27:32

that was a sparkling but natural cave.

0:27:320:27:35

He applied stones and bits of glass and crystal to the walls

0:27:350:27:42

of this place, which were to him a place of contemplation and retreat.

0:27:420:27:47

Should we carry on, do some investigating?

0:27:470:27:49

Yes. Just above here...

0:27:490:27:51

-Oh, yeah.

-..there is an ammonite.

0:27:510:27:53

Oh, yes. Wow.

0:27:530:27:56

-There's curiosities around every corner.

-Indeed!

0:27:560:28:00

So this is the south chamber, and we've got some finds here that were

0:28:000:28:04

discovered 20 years ago.

0:28:040:28:05

-Gosh, what a table of amazing treasures.

-Table of...

0:28:050:28:09

Yes. There's coral from the South Seas.

0:28:090:28:12

-Yeah.

-These were all gifts from people who were friends,

0:28:120:28:15

or friends of friends,

0:28:150:28:17

very often people who were just pleased to supply Pope with

0:28:170:28:20

something for his collection,

0:28:200:28:21

and he rewarded them with pineapples from his garden

0:28:210:28:24

and bits of his writing.

0:28:240:28:26

So a lot of them were gifted?

0:28:260:28:28

-Yes.

-And that does also suggest that he was quite a popular chap...

0:28:280:28:31

-Very popular.

-..that people were willing to give him these things.

0:28:310:28:34

Yes. I think people were following the progress of this grotto,

0:28:340:28:37

and he was terribly fashionable.

0:28:370:28:39

He was visited by Voltaire and Johnson and all the

0:28:390:28:42

great names of the age.

0:28:420:28:44

And I must show you this.

0:28:450:28:47

He had weeping willows framing his garden.

0:28:470:28:50

This, after he died and after the willow died,

0:28:500:28:52

was brought into the grotto as a memory.

0:28:520:28:55

So this is all that survives of Pope's garden, isn't it?

0:28:550:28:57

It is. And in terms of the experience, then,

0:28:570:29:01

there were things that he put in place to make it more dramatic

0:29:010:29:04

-for his visitors, didn't he?

-Yes.

0:29:040:29:06

People would arrive here by boat and process up to the house through the

0:29:060:29:11

garden, which was lined with statues and so on,

0:29:110:29:14

and then through the grotto

0:29:140:29:16

to the five acres of garden behind.

0:29:160:29:19

Pope tried to create classical scenes in his garden.

0:29:190:29:22

Mirroring techniques used in landscape painting,

0:29:220:29:25

he cheated perspective and created long views and vistas.

0:29:250:29:29

It was a new approach to garden design,

0:29:290:29:31

and many people came to see his creation.

0:29:310:29:34

And we're talking lots and lots of guests that were coming

0:29:340:29:37

-through here.

-Lots of guests, yes.

0:29:370:29:38

He had very famous guests - like Johnson,

0:29:380:29:40

Swift and Gay - and he had parties of visitors who would come

0:29:400:29:44

and he would show them his gardens and his grotto.

0:29:440:29:47

Come this way.

0:29:470:29:48

Pope discovered a passion for geology as a result of

0:29:480:29:51

building the grotto.

0:29:510:29:53

He continued to develop it throughout his life.

0:29:530:29:55

He found a rill of the purest water which flowed through the grotto and

0:29:550:30:01

diagonally out the other side.

0:30:010:30:02

-Which was of great excitement.

-That's hugely...

0:30:020:30:04

That's hugely symbolic in an Arcadian sense, isn't it?

0:30:040:30:07

-Absolutely.

-The source of the water, the source of inspiration!

0:30:070:30:10

-Imagination.

-Am I right in thinking he had a glitter ball in here?

0:30:100:30:14

I think... I think it could be called that.

0:30:140:30:17

It was the orbicular globe that hung where he sat to write,

0:30:170:30:22

but he's certainly pictured sitting here, at his desk,

0:30:220:30:25

under his globe,

0:30:250:30:26

which was alabaster with sparkling minerals

0:30:260:30:30

reflecting the light from the river.

0:30:300:30:32

He would close the doors at either end

0:30:320:30:34

and the interior would sparkle from the light

0:30:340:30:37

through the holes in the doors.

0:30:370:30:39

It does sound to me like an 18th-century disco ball.

0:30:390:30:43

It really does!

0:30:430:30:44

And we think this is what it looked like.

0:30:440:30:47

JANINA GASPS

0:30:470:30:50

Strange coming out of the darkness of Pope's grotto to this.

0:31:010:31:06

The Thames. And what really has struck me thinking about

0:31:060:31:11

not just his poetry but what he does with his house

0:31:110:31:15

in Twickenham, it's as if there is a chain reaction that begins,

0:31:150:31:20

starting off with his ideas of classical Arcadia,

0:31:200:31:23

and then rippling out through his social network,

0:31:230:31:26

through his friends,

0:31:260:31:28

to be embodied either side of this stretch of the river.

0:31:280:31:32

By the early 1720s,

0:31:370:31:39

there was an explosion of interest in classical themes and ideas.

0:31:390:31:43

Pope's views on the natural world and garden design were

0:31:430:31:46

already attracting significant attention and patronage.

0:31:460:31:50

One of Pope's closest and most influential friends

0:31:520:31:55

lived next door to him in Twickenham,

0:31:550:31:57

and she was a member of the royal household.

0:31:570:32:00

This beautiful Palladian mansion behind me is Marble Hill House.

0:32:070:32:12

It was the home of King George II's mistress, Henrietta Howard.

0:32:120:32:17

Esme Whittaker can tell me how Henrietta and her social set

0:32:270:32:31

helped Pope's ideas spread beyond his gardens in Twickenham.

0:32:310:32:35

Hello, Esme. Lovely to see you.

0:32:350:32:37

Hi, nice to meet you. Welcome to Marble Hill.

0:32:370:32:39

-And here she is.

-Yes.

0:32:400:32:42

-Henrietta Howard.

-Yes.

0:32:420:32:43

She's a remarkable woman.

0:32:430:32:45

She actually overcame great personal adversity

0:32:450:32:48

to become a very influential person in the Georgian court.

0:32:480:32:52

She was part of the royal household,

0:32:520:32:54

so she was a woman of the bedchamber for Princess Caroline,

0:32:540:32:58

and perhaps more famously,

0:32:580:32:59

she was also the mistress of the Prince Regent,

0:32:590:33:02

so the future George II.

0:33:020:33:04

But she was also the friends of poets and of politicians,

0:33:040:33:07

and she was an architectural patron

0:33:070:33:09

and a collector of art and porcelain.

0:33:090:33:12

And she was known for her diplomacy.

0:33:120:33:14

She was actually nicknamed the Swiss,

0:33:140:33:16

which I think is an important quality

0:33:160:33:18

when you are in a court that's full of kind of gossip and scandal.

0:33:180:33:21

And, really, she was at the centre of the circle of poets and writers

0:33:210:33:26

that really followed her to here, to Marble Hill.

0:33:260:33:29

And Pope famously said that there was a greater court here now,

0:33:290:33:33

at Marble Hill, than at Kensington.

0:33:330:33:35

And it was a place where her friends could congregate

0:33:350:33:38

and also they really kind of made use of Marble Hill when it was still

0:33:380:33:41

under construction and before Henrietta had retired

0:33:410:33:45

from court.

0:33:450:33:46

So we know that friends such as Jonathan Swift

0:33:460:33:49

christened himself chief butler and keeper of the ice house.

0:33:490:33:53

And Pope had a meal here, actually, to celebrate the birth

0:33:530:33:57

of a female calf from the farm at Marble Hill.

0:33:570:34:00

It was sort of any excuse, I think, for a celebration.

0:34:000:34:02

"A cow has been born, let's have a party."

0:34:020:34:04

Exactly, exactly.

0:34:040:34:05

And he writes to Henrietta

0:34:050:34:07

how they celebrate with flesh and fish

0:34:070:34:10

and a lettuce from a Greek island called Cos

0:34:100:34:13

which obviously... Exotic at that time.

0:34:130:34:15

And that the housekeeper, Mrs Susan, offered them wine,

0:34:150:34:18

and it would just be rude to refuse, wouldn't it, really?

0:34:180:34:20

It was very much at the heart of the Twickenham set,

0:34:250:34:29

so one of the reasons why she was attracted to Twickenham

0:34:290:34:32

as an area was the fact that Alexander Pope had

0:34:320:34:35

already moved here, so that was one of the reasons why she decided

0:34:350:34:39

to build the villa here.

0:34:390:34:40

And that close relationship and friendship with Pope,

0:34:400:34:44

really, it's reflected in his poetry

0:34:440:34:46

but also in the fact that

0:34:460:34:47

he commissioned this portrait of Henrietta.

0:34:470:34:50

I think that what's very interesting as well

0:34:500:34:52

is the way she's being depicted there.

0:34:520:34:54

She looks so Arcadian, and she's pure, she's virtuous,

0:34:540:34:58

she's beautiful, and that's how Pope saw her.

0:34:580:35:01

Yeah, and this slightly informal dress, showing that it is a portrait

0:35:010:35:06

for a friend, but then also quite a direct gaze.

0:35:060:35:09

And I liked the way that she's posed in front of this landscape

0:35:090:35:13

so we actually think it's more of an infinite vista,

0:35:130:35:16

so alluding to the pastoral world of the poet.

0:35:160:35:18

In the 18th century, views and vistas

0:35:240:35:27

were becoming significant features in landscape design,

0:35:270:35:30

drawing the eye to prominent landmarks

0:35:300:35:33

and creating a sense of unity in the landscape,

0:35:330:35:35

which went well beyond the boundaries of your own garden.

0:35:350:35:39

John's next destination is the Great River Avenue at Ham Lands.

0:35:390:35:43

This avenue, which is part of the Ham House estate,

0:35:530:35:56

originally stretched

0:35:560:35:57

from the river bank opposite Pope's house right up to Richmond Hill.

0:35:570:36:01

It's now overgrown.

0:36:010:36:03

Rebecca Law and a team of volunteers are restoring the avenue back to its

0:36:050:36:09

18th-century state using traditional methods sympathetic to the

0:36:090:36:13

environment and in harmony with nature.

0:36:130:36:15

-Hi, Rebecca.

-You all right, John?

-How are you?

-Good.

0:36:170:36:19

Well, this looks fun, but it's more than that, isn't it?

0:36:190:36:21

It is indeed, yes.

0:36:210:36:23

We've been doing a lot of restoration

0:36:230:36:25

of historic vistas,

0:36:250:36:27

avenues and the landscape,

0:36:270:36:29

particularly around sort of the 18th-century sort of landscapes,

0:36:290:36:32

-particularly in this area.

-Come on.

0:36:320:36:35

This is the Great River Avenue,

0:36:350:36:36

which originally was from the view to Richmond Hill,

0:36:360:36:40

which is the Royal Star & Garter,

0:36:400:36:42

all the way down to what was Pope's villa in Twickenham.

0:36:420:36:45

What we would like to do is at least restore that view so you can get the

0:36:450:36:50

feeling and the sense of that avenue back.

0:36:500:36:52

And this project especially is quite nice because it's restoring a lost

0:36:540:37:00

avenue as well as doing a lot of diversity and habitat.

0:37:000:37:04

So it's not just about the people, it's not just about the history,

0:37:040:37:08

it's also about the wildlife.

0:37:080:37:11

To avoid damaging the environment,

0:37:110:37:13

the volunteers are not using any machinery.

0:37:130:37:15

Tom Nixon and his horse Murdoch are clearing the cut timber.

0:37:150:37:19

Basically, what we're doing here now is we're...

0:37:190:37:21

The volunteers have already cut all this brash and put it into nice tidy

0:37:210:37:24

bundles for us,

0:37:240:37:25

so basically we have the choke chain on the bundle of timber now

0:37:250:37:28

and we're going to hoop it into Murdoch's swingletree,

0:37:280:37:31

and then we're going to take it away.

0:37:310:37:33

This is Murdoch's job.

0:37:330:37:34

Among many more.

0:37:340:37:36

OK, walk on.

0:37:360:37:37

Chup! Chup!

0:37:370:37:38

Good lad. Come on, son.

0:37:390:37:41

Come on. Come up.

0:37:440:37:45

It's very important that we think of the horse's welfare as well,

0:37:480:37:51

so we don't give him too big a load to pull.

0:37:510:37:54

It's most important that he trusts us that we're not going to put him

0:37:540:37:57

into a dangerous area, and we never do that.

0:37:570:38:00

And on your side of things, Tom, I mean, obviously this is lifetime's

0:38:000:38:03

-experience, isn't it?

-Yeah, I'm working with horses all my life,

0:38:030:38:06

-John, to be honest with you.

-Yeah.

0:38:060:38:08

I've been with farm horses and forestry horses.

0:38:080:38:10

Come up. Come up.

0:38:100:38:13

Come up. Mind your face off them now, John.

0:38:130:38:15

Come up. That's the...

0:38:150:38:17

Come on, son.

0:38:170:38:18

Whoa.

0:38:190:38:20

Stand there now. That's my boy.

0:38:200:38:23

Just watching this scrub being pulled through, Tom,

0:38:230:38:26

that's good for the land in itself, isn't it?

0:38:260:38:28

Of course it is, John.

0:38:280:38:29

The load we're pulling, the branches and the brash,

0:38:290:38:31

it's opening back the brambles, it's taking them out of the way,

0:38:310:38:34

it's pulling them out by the roots, and this is leaving the forest floor

0:38:340:38:37

open, so come the spring time, the sunlight will get in,

0:38:370:38:40

it'll bring up our wild flowers

0:38:400:38:41

and hopefully a regeneration of our native oak trees.

0:38:410:38:44

So, basically, everything we do is good.

0:38:440:38:46

Every little part of this process is great for the environment.

0:38:460:38:49

Absolutely. We've been given a blank canvas to work here cos this

0:38:490:38:51

woodland has been ignored for so many years,

0:38:510:38:53

so it's important that we plan every step

0:38:530:38:55

and work it in the proper fashion.

0:38:550:38:57

Come on, son.

0:38:580:39:00

Good lad.

0:39:000:39:02

Walk on.

0:39:020:39:03

Come up. Come up.

0:39:050:39:08

Mind yourself there now, you don't get...

0:39:080:39:11

-Steady.

-So restoring these avenues is really going back to a 17th-,

0:39:110:39:17

18th-century plan, isn't it? There's nothing random about these.

0:39:170:39:20

No, no, these avenues were laid out

0:39:200:39:22

to link together the different villas and estates,

0:39:220:39:25

so Ham House, obviously it's a very important...

0:39:250:39:29

was an important estate.

0:39:290:39:30

You have Marble Hill over on the other side,

0:39:300:39:32

then you've got Hampton Court Palace further down.

0:39:320:39:35

And there were several smaller villas privately owned

0:39:350:39:39

that dotted the riverside,

0:39:390:39:41

and these avenues were that connection between those estates

0:39:410:39:45

for people to walk through and enjoy.

0:39:450:39:49

So it's using the river as that

0:39:490:39:51

connecting corridor to bounce the different parks and gardens and the

0:39:510:39:55

-elements across.

-It is that wonderful feeling of being out

0:39:550:39:59

-in the wild in the city, isn't it?

-It is. I mean, that's what we...

0:39:590:40:02

It's that Arcadian history and that Arcadian feel

0:40:020:40:06

that we really want to show.

0:40:060:40:08

Whoa.

0:40:080:40:11

Who's a good boy?

0:40:110:40:12

HE WHISPERS

0:40:120:40:14

That's the lad.

0:40:140:40:16

Back in Marble Hill on the other side of the river,

0:40:210:40:24

I'm discovering more about the 18th-century origins

0:40:240:40:27

of the Arcadian Thames.

0:40:270:40:29

It wasn't only landscape design that was being revolutionised at this

0:40:290:40:32

time, it was also architecture

0:40:320:40:35

that was being influenced by the classics.

0:40:350:40:38

Let's just take you into the Great Room

0:40:380:40:40

-and we can have a look at the Panini paintings.

-Fantastic!

0:40:400:40:43

I love Panini. Oh, wow.

0:40:430:40:45

Well, this is it, isn't it?

0:40:450:40:46

This is the classical tradition being fantastically realised

0:40:460:40:51

by the 18th-century imagination.

0:40:510:40:54

Yes. And these works were painted

0:40:540:40:56

by Giovanni Paolo Panini

0:40:560:40:58

in Rome in 1738,

0:40:580:41:01

so these are very much imaginary views.

0:41:010:41:04

So Rome didn't actually look like this.

0:41:040:41:06

This was very much a construct on the part of the artist to show,

0:41:060:41:09

to highlight all those kind of well-known features.

0:41:090:41:12

And they were very fashionable at the time as a type of souvenir for

0:41:120:41:17

English gentlemen who were going on the Grand Tour.

0:41:170:41:20

Glorified postcards, really.

0:41:200:41:21

-Yeah.

-But they're summing up what the Grand Tour is all about,

0:41:210:41:25

-aren't they?

-Yeah, so the Grand Tour is basically

0:41:250:41:28

the name that was given to these travels in Europe.

0:41:280:41:31

So it often followed a set route.

0:41:310:41:33

So the ultimate aim, really, was to go and visit Italy,

0:41:330:41:36

and in particular to go to Rome,

0:41:360:41:38

and it was very much seen as a prerequisite

0:41:380:41:41

of a young gentleman's education.

0:41:410:41:43

So it was a chance to learn languages,

0:41:430:41:46

learn about art and architecture,

0:41:460:41:48

and also it was a great opportunity to shop.

0:41:480:41:51

So they bought classical statuary and paintings

0:41:510:41:54

and even fans and perfume.

0:41:540:41:56

And Lord Burlington,

0:41:560:41:58

who owns Chiswick House, it's known that when he came back

0:41:580:42:01

from his first Grand Tour,

0:42:010:42:03

he actually brought 878 trunks of purchases back with him.

0:42:030:42:08

-That's some serious shopping, my goodness!

-Serious shopping.

0:42:080:42:11

The Grand Tour was not only an excuse for young gentlemen

0:42:130:42:16

to shop and visit ancient ruins,

0:42:160:42:19

it also introduced them to the works of Andrea Palladio,

0:42:190:42:22

a 16th-century Italian architect.

0:42:220:42:24

Inspired by the buildings of ancient Rome,

0:42:260:42:28

he developed a theory of ideal proportions in buildings

0:42:280:42:31

known as Palladianism.

0:42:310:42:33

Early designs at the Marble Hill were by the architect Colen Campbell

0:42:330:42:37

who was one of the key promoters of the Palladian style in Britain.

0:42:370:42:42

And he published a work called Vitruvius Britannicus

0:42:420:42:45

which was a survey of the national architecture,

0:42:450:42:48

but in the introduction of it, he's really promoting Palladio.

0:42:480:42:51

And actually, the early design for Marble Hill features in the third

0:42:510:42:55

edition of this book.

0:42:550:42:56

And this symmetry of Palladian architecture

0:42:560:42:59

and its classical origins perfectly match the emerging taste

0:42:590:43:02

for the naturalised landscape garden.

0:43:020:43:04

Am I right in thinking that it's actually Pope,

0:43:040:43:07

with the royal gardener Charles Bridgeman,

0:43:070:43:10

who designed Henrietta's garden?

0:43:100:43:12

Yes, that's correct.

0:43:120:43:13

So we know that Pope and Bridgeman and Henrietta all met on-site here,

0:43:130:43:17

at Marble Hill, in 1724 in order to plan the gardens.

0:43:170:43:21

Was it designed along similar lines to Pope's garden, then?

0:43:210:43:25

There certainly were some similar features. For example, we know that

0:43:250:43:28

she had a grotto, actually two grottoes.

0:43:280:43:30

It had serpentine paths

0:43:300:43:32

and also these wonderful terraced lawns running down to the Thames.

0:43:320:43:35

Henrietta was not the only friend to be inspired by Pope

0:43:410:43:43

and the classical landscapes of the past.

0:43:430:43:46

Lord Burlington was a great patron of the arts.

0:43:460:43:50

He had the money and influence to experiment with architecture

0:43:500:43:53

and garden design on a grand scale.

0:43:530:43:56

Known as the Architect Earl,

0:43:560:43:57

he's credited with bringing Palladian architecture to Britain.

0:43:570:44:01

Burlington took the Palladian revival very seriously,

0:44:010:44:04

so he actually went on a second Grand Tour to Italy

0:44:040:44:08

specifically to study Palladio's buildings.

0:44:080:44:11

And he also started to acquire Palladio's drawings.

0:44:110:44:15

So he amassed this wonderful library of drawings which he could use

0:44:150:44:18

as a reference tool when he was designing his villa, Chiswick House.

0:44:180:44:22

And he was able to basically promote the style much more widely by using

0:44:220:44:26

his influence to secure places through his proteges,

0:44:260:44:29

so the likes of the designer William Kent,

0:44:290:44:32

which meant that the style could be disseminated

0:44:320:44:34

much more widely and become a national style.

0:44:340:44:36

Absolutely, and that's why when we still walk down

0:44:360:44:38

our high streets today,

0:44:380:44:39

you will see this classically inspired architecture.

0:44:390:44:42

-It's all coming from around here at that moment.

-It is, yes.

0:44:420:44:46

I've come to Chiswick House

0:44:540:44:55

to see Lord Burlington's creation for myself -

0:44:550:44:58

a classical Palladian villa set

0:44:580:45:00

in one of the last remaining early examples of

0:45:000:45:03

an English landscape garden.

0:45:030:45:05

The gardens here at Chiswick House were designed by Lord Burlington,

0:45:050:45:09

Charles Bridgeman and William Kent.

0:45:090:45:12

They are believed by many to be a grander version of Alexander Pope's

0:45:120:45:16

gardens in Twickenham.

0:45:160:45:18

But what a long way garden design had come in just over 20 years,

0:45:180:45:23

from the formal gardens at Hampton Court to this.

0:45:230:45:26

John Watkins is a specialist

0:45:320:45:33

in the origins of the English landscape movement.

0:45:330:45:37

John, we are here in Chiswick,

0:45:380:45:40

but what is it that's so important

0:45:400:45:42

about the landscape, the gardens here,

0:45:420:45:44

in terms of English landscape design?

0:45:440:45:47

I think most important is its influence

0:45:470:45:50

and the fact that it's still here.

0:45:500:45:52

Lord Burlington,

0:45:520:45:53

being a member of the House of Lords and having his properties near

0:45:530:45:56

London, was in a very good position to be able to influence his set

0:45:560:46:01

and influence people who are interested

0:46:010:46:04

in architecture and landscape.

0:46:040:46:06

And he gathered around him...

0:46:060:46:08

..artists, playwrights, architects and most importantly gardeners.

0:46:090:46:14

So, Lord Burlington is the patron, but who's actually here,

0:46:140:46:17

on the ground, doing the design of it?

0:46:170:46:21

So, Bridgeman probably was the first person to aid

0:46:210:46:24

some of the initial designs here.

0:46:240:46:26

But two other key people were Pope and Kent.

0:46:260:46:30

In fact, what is interesting,

0:46:300:46:32

Burlington met Kent in Italy, and I think it's that strong influence of

0:46:320:46:38

Italian gardens of ancient Rome that influenced, in particular,

0:46:380:46:43

the early phases and also the latter phases of the gardens here.

0:46:430:46:47

And Kent was hugely important

0:46:470:46:50

because he was able to illustrate

0:46:500:46:53

both what was in his mind

0:46:530:46:55

but also what was in Pope's mind and also Burlington's.

0:46:550:46:58

Burlington inherited the original estate at Chiswick in 1715

0:46:580:47:03

and started work on the gardens soon after.

0:47:030:47:05

However, it wasn't until the late 1720s that Kent,

0:47:050:47:09

Burlington and others started to soften the design,

0:47:090:47:12

reducing its formality.

0:47:120:47:13

-If we look at this plan here...

-Yeah.

0:47:170:47:18

..what we can see is the original garden here,

0:47:180:47:22

on the north side of the image,

0:47:220:47:25

and there you can see very, very formal features.

0:47:250:47:27

You've got groves, you've got single avenues,

0:47:270:47:31

you've got the goose foot.

0:47:310:47:32

And if we look just south of the house,

0:47:320:47:34

you see a very formal lawn in this plan, with a maze here.

0:47:340:47:37

Towards the end of his life,

0:47:370:47:39

the hedges and the trees were removed.

0:47:390:47:41

This became an informal lawn with a view over the lake.

0:47:410:47:45

And this is where sort of Walpole described that Kent jumped the fence

0:47:450:47:50

-and saw that all nature was a garden.

-Oh, I love that!

-Yeah.

0:47:500:47:53

If you think that that simple lawn influenced

0:47:580:48:02

many of the great gardens,

0:48:020:48:04

and Capability Brown took that idea and did it on a grand scale

0:48:040:48:08

right the way round the country...

0:48:080:48:09

And you go to places like Central Park in New York,

0:48:090:48:13

those ideas are then taken further.

0:48:130:48:15

Let's go and see the transition from the formal to the informal.

0:48:150:48:18

And, of course, there's a lovely link with these obelisks -

0:48:280:48:31

because there's two obelisks here -

0:48:310:48:33

and the great importance of Pope.

0:48:330:48:35

You've got the obelisk that he built

0:48:350:48:37

in his garden to commemorate his mother.

0:48:370:48:39

Pope was a poet. How was he influencing garden design?

0:48:390:48:42

If you think he was a great poet, an ideas man...

0:48:420:48:46

And Pope was a romantic,

0:48:460:48:48

and of course gardens are the ultimate romantic feature.

0:48:480:48:52

And so, as a very enthusiastic amateur garden designer,

0:48:520:48:57

he was taking ideas that he had in his mind

0:48:570:49:00

and trying them out at home.

0:49:000:49:02

And his influence is...is massive

0:49:020:49:06

because bigger practical people

0:49:060:49:09

then took his ideas and developed them further.

0:49:090:49:12

You add in Burlington, you add in Kent,

0:49:120:49:15

and you've got the ideal recipe.

0:49:150:49:17

Then the challenge is saying,

0:49:170:49:19

where does one influence come in and one finish?

0:49:190:49:21

That is what is so fascinating.

0:49:210:49:24

And yet, I suppose, at the heart of all of it is that shared ideal

0:49:240:49:27

of Arcadia.

0:49:270:49:28

Yes, that's what links it all together.

0:49:280:49:30

For centuries, European formality

0:49:360:49:39

had been imported in to English gardens,

0:49:390:49:43

like those at Hampton Court.

0:49:430:49:45

But in less than three decades,

0:49:450:49:48

ideas of what comprised a beautiful landscape

0:49:480:49:52

had changed beyond all recognition.

0:49:520:49:55

The English landscape garden style was rapidly adopted

0:50:050:50:08

in gardens of great houses throughout the country,

0:50:080:50:11

as baroque formality was replaced

0:50:110:50:13

by gardens created to look pastoral and natural.

0:50:130:50:17

Arcadian.

0:50:170:50:18

Jason. I'm John.

0:50:230:50:25

What a place to meet!

0:50:250:50:26

-This is real Aladdin's cave, isn't it?

-It is wonderful, isn't it?

0:50:260:50:29

This is Richmond Bridge Boathouse,

0:50:290:50:31

where so many of these incredible wooden boats that characterise

0:50:310:50:34

this part of the Thames are made.

0:50:340:50:36

MOTOR REVS

0:50:360:50:38

Jason Debney, a landscape historian,

0:50:420:50:45

and his skipper have offered to take John to one of the last remaining

0:50:450:50:48

18th-century Arcadian landscapes on the Thames.

0:50:480:50:52

Jason, you're a landscape historian, what does that entail?

0:50:560:51:01

Being a landscape historian in this part of the world is about

0:51:010:51:04

understanding how the landscape developed historically,

0:51:040:51:08

understanding how this glorious landscape got to where it is,

0:51:080:51:11

but finding ways to take it into the future.

0:51:110:51:13

Most people think being a historian is about the past but,

0:51:130:51:17

in a landscape such as this, it's not.

0:51:170:51:19

It's all about the future.

0:51:190:51:20

This is Syon Reach,

0:51:250:51:26

a stretch of the Thames bordered by two of the most significant designed

0:51:260:51:30

landscapes in Britain -

0:51:300:51:32

Kew Gardens on one side and Syon Park on the other.

0:51:320:51:35

The landscape at Syon was designed by William Kent's protege,

0:51:370:51:41

Lancelot Brown,

0:51:410:51:43

better known as Capability Brown.

0:51:430:51:45

It's the only remaining natural river bank in Greater London.

0:51:480:51:52

We now coming to Syon House over here.

0:51:550:51:57

The meadows here flood twice a day, don't they, Jason?

0:51:570:52:01

They do, yeah. That's one of the things that makes it so special.

0:52:010:52:04

It depends on the state of the tide.

0:52:040:52:06

Because different tides have different heights, obviously,

0:52:060:52:09

throughout the month.

0:52:090:52:12

And that creates a very special landscape,

0:52:120:52:14

in the way that on very high spring tides all of the meadow is inundated

0:52:140:52:18

-with water.

-So it's forcing its way down these creeks and channels.

0:52:180:52:22

It is, yeah, covering most of the meadow in there.

0:52:220:52:25

What that has given us is a progression of different habitats,

0:52:250:52:29

moving from the dry land through to the wetter land by the river.

0:52:290:52:32

And each of those habitats has a different types of species on it -

0:52:320:52:36

so the species that love the wetter habitat down by the river

0:52:360:52:40

and the grassland species that like the drier habitat

0:52:400:52:43

up towards the house at the top of the meadow.

0:52:430:52:45

And what sorts of plants would we expect to find there?

0:52:450:52:47

Well, along the river edge here,

0:52:470:52:49

we've got this wonderful native reed, we've got angelica,

0:52:490:52:53

water dropwort, watermint.

0:52:530:52:55

And, of course, in the summer, it's just a mass of purple

0:52:550:53:00

from the loosestrife that thrives along the river bank.

0:53:000:53:03

But that's where it's so lovely coming along the river

0:53:030:53:05

on a winter's day like this,

0:53:050:53:06

because we can actually see through the line of trees

0:53:060:53:09

and vegetation here so we can have a look at the meadows beyond.

0:53:090:53:13

Right, and what does happen beyond?

0:53:130:53:16

Well, beyond the flood meadows is a classic Capability Brown landscape.

0:53:160:53:19

What Capability Brown did, of course, here was to sweep away

0:53:390:53:42

the formality of the baroque garden.

0:53:420:53:44

It's got all the elements that you would expect over here,

0:53:440:53:47

in a Capability Brown landscape.

0:53:470:53:49

It's got the ha-ha. It's got temples, it's got Arcadian statues.

0:53:490:53:53

We've got clumps of trees which allow us to see in

0:53:530:53:56

and connect the two sides of the landscape.

0:53:560:53:58

We've got flooded streams creating lakes.

0:53:580:54:01

Arcadian temples.

0:54:010:54:03

You name it, it is a typical Capability Brown landscape.

0:54:030:54:07

What an extraordinary journey,

0:54:240:54:26

from gardens designed with mathematical precision

0:54:260:54:29

to landscapes created to emulate Arcadia,

0:54:290:54:33

a pastoral idyll

0:54:330:54:34

where man and nature coexist in harmony.

0:54:340:54:37

This 12-mile stretch of the Thames

0:54:450:54:47

became the focus of a cultural movement

0:54:470:54:49

which changed the face of our English countryside.

0:54:490:54:53

Ideas expressed in art, poetry,

0:54:530:54:55

architecture and gardening had fused together,

0:54:550:54:58

and the naturalised English landscape was born.

0:54:580:55:02

For the first time, a designed landscape was considered

0:55:150:55:18

as a collective whole,

0:55:180:55:20

comprising all that the eye can see.

0:55:200:55:23

Incredibly, some of the more far-reaching views,

0:55:230:55:26

such as this one to St Paul's,

0:55:260:55:28

are still visible today.

0:55:280:55:30

And at the heart of it all is the Thames,

0:55:350:55:38

eulogised and elevated by poets and painters as more beautiful

0:55:380:55:42

than the rivers of antiquity.

0:55:420:55:44

But there is one final place to visit before John and I finish our

0:55:450:55:49

journey. And one more view to see.

0:55:490:55:53

The only view in Britain protected by an act of Parliament.

0:55:530:55:57

Here, on Richmond Hill.

0:55:570:55:59

We're meeting Sir David Attenborough and Kim Wilkie,

0:56:010:56:04

patron and founder of the Thames Landscape Strategy,

0:56:040:56:07

an organisation which aims to restore and protect

0:56:070:56:10

the Arcadian Thames for future generations.

0:56:100:56:13

Well, I don't know quite what patrons are supposed to do,

0:56:130:56:16

but whatever it is they're supposed to do, I hope I'm doing it.

0:56:160:56:19

And, I mean, as a local, I am very concerned with this wonderful view.

0:56:190:56:24

And if someone asks you to help preserve such a thing,

0:56:240:56:27

how can you say no?

0:56:270:56:28

So I help in whatever way they ask me to do.

0:56:280:56:31

The strategy itself cares about the natural world.

0:56:310:56:34

I mean, think of other parts of the Thames,

0:56:340:56:37

where this place would be covered by skyscrapers,

0:56:370:56:40

but here we've got grass.

0:56:400:56:41

And we look over there, and there's more grass.

0:56:410:56:43

And it's been like that for a long time, and our intention is

0:56:430:56:46

it should stay like that for a long time.

0:56:460:56:49

And it is definitely about that, isn't it?

0:56:490:56:50

It's about creating a true relationship

0:56:500:56:53

between man and nature within London.

0:56:530:56:56

I think it's the notion that the river is the centre of things

0:56:560:57:00

and not a divider of things.

0:57:000:57:03

And that's what has been brought about.

0:57:030:57:06

The English landscape movement was kind of a revolution

0:57:060:57:09

in political and scientific thought

0:57:090:57:11

-which started with Alexander Pope.

-Yeah, yeah.

0:57:110:57:14

And really started up here

0:57:140:57:15

on this hill, looking out over that river and that bend in the river.

0:57:150:57:20

So this stretch of the Thames is really at the complete heart

0:57:200:57:26

of that whole English landscape thought and political science

0:57:260:57:32

that happened at that time.

0:57:320:57:34

It was a completely different way of looking at the world,

0:57:340:57:38

and the idea of man in the middle of nature rather than separate from it

0:57:380:57:43

had huge implications.

0:57:430:57:44

Is this Arcadia?

0:57:500:57:52

Well, for me it is. I've got all the advantages of the city,

0:57:520:57:55

which London brings to me,

0:57:550:57:56

but all the...many of the advantages of living

0:57:560:57:59

where nature is still visible.

0:57:590:58:01

Just to have this amount of green space,

0:58:010:58:05

this natural space, in such a huge city

0:58:050:58:08

is wonderful, and it's what keeps us sane,

0:58:080:58:11

and that ultimately is the biggest challenge for cities

0:58:110:58:13

in this coming century.

0:58:130:58:15

And also, 100 years goes past very fast.

0:58:150:58:17

THEY LAUGH

0:58:170:58:20

Hang about!

0:58:200:58:21

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