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In 1840, one man transformed travel in the British Isles. | 0:00:06 | 0:00:10 | |
His name was George Bradshaw, | 0:00:10 | 0:00:12 | |
and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. | 0:00:12 | 0:00:16 | |
Stop by stop, he told them where to travel, | 0:00:18 | 0:00:21 | |
what to see and where to stay. | 0:00:21 | 0:00:23 | |
Now, 170 years later, I'm making a series of journeys | 0:00:24 | 0:00:29 | |
across the length and breadth of these isles | 0:00:29 | 0:00:31 | |
to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains. | 0:00:31 | 0:00:34 | |
Steered by my Bradshaw's Guide, I'm now at the halfway point | 0:00:55 | 0:00:57 | |
of my journey from London Paddington to Newton Abbot. | 0:00:57 | 0:01:01 | |
Today, I shall complete my crossing of the county of Somerset. | 0:01:01 | 0:01:05 | |
On this leg, I'll be exploring a church that moves | 0:01:07 | 0:01:10 | |
in mysterious ways. | 0:01:10 | 0:01:12 | |
That's extraordinary! It really is moving from side to side! | 0:01:12 | 0:01:16 | |
I'll find out just what it takes to run a 19th-century signal box. | 0:01:16 | 0:01:22 | |
I had no idea what a signalman needed to do | 0:01:22 | 0:01:24 | |
was so responsible and so physical | 0:01:24 | 0:01:27 | |
And I'll summon all my strength | 0:01:28 | 0:01:31 | |
to shift a 110-tonne steam locomotive. | 0:01:31 | 0:01:35 | |
HE GROANS | 0:01:35 | 0:01:36 | |
She's moving! I can't believe it, she's moving. | 0:01:36 | 0:01:39 | |
On this journey, I'm paying tribute to Isambard Kingdom Brunel, | 0:01:40 | 0:01:44 | |
master engineer of the Great Western Railway. | 0:01:44 | 0:01:47 | |
I started at Paddington station, one of his finest monuments, | 0:01:47 | 0:01:51 | |
travelled west through Wiltshire and into Somerset, | 0:01:51 | 0:01:54 | |
and I'll finish at Newton Abbot in Devon - | 0:01:54 | 0:01:57 | |
the scene of one of his magnificent failures. | 0:01:57 | 0:02:00 | |
I'm covering 25 miles on this leg, | 0:02:01 | 0:02:03 | |
travelling north-west through Somerset | 0:02:03 | 0:02:07 | |
ending on the coast at Minehead. | 0:02:07 | 0:02:09 | |
My first stop today is Taunton. | 0:02:16 | 0:02:18 | |
My Bradshaw's tells me that it was successfully defended | 0:02:18 | 0:02:21 | |
against the Royalists during the English Civil War | 0:02:21 | 0:02:24 | |
and also that, there, the ill-fated Duke of Monmouth | 0:02:24 | 0:02:27 | |
proclaimed himself King in 1685. | 0:02:27 | 0:02:31 | |
Legend has it that Queen Victoria was so incensed | 0:02:31 | 0:02:34 | |
by this history of anti-monarchic feeling | 0:02:34 | 0:02:38 | |
that whenever she crossed Taunton, | 0:02:38 | 0:02:40 | |
she would draw the curtain in her railway carriage window | 0:02:40 | 0:02:44 | |
so as not to see her disloyal subjects. | 0:02:44 | 0:02:47 | |
Looks like Taunton is trying to make up for its anti-Royalist past... | 0:03:01 | 0:03:06 | |
"Somerset's county town," says my Bradshaw's, | 0:03:08 | 0:03:11 | |
"has a most pleasing appearance, situated in the central part | 0:03:11 | 0:03:15 | |
"of the luxuriant Vale of Taunton Deane." | 0:03:15 | 0:03:18 | |
The guidebook's also captivated by one church, St Mary Magdalene. | 0:03:18 | 0:03:25 | |
Bradshaw's tells me that the tower of Taunton's gothic church | 0:03:25 | 0:03:28 | |
is of Henry VII's age, 153 feet high, | 0:03:28 | 0:03:32 | |
of light and elegant proportions, | 0:03:32 | 0:03:34 | |
and set off with pinnacles, battlements and niches | 0:03:34 | 0:03:38 | |
in the elaborate style of that day. | 0:03:38 | 0:03:41 | |
And I'm hoping the vicar can tell me more. | 0:03:41 | 0:03:44 | |
BELLS PEAL | 0:03:44 | 0:03:47 | |
-Hello, Michael. Welcome. -Lovely to see you. | 0:03:51 | 0:03:54 | |
My Bradshaw's tells me that the tower here is of Henry VII's age, | 0:03:54 | 0:03:59 | |
-so it's very historic. -Ah! But it isn't quite. | 0:03:59 | 0:04:03 | |
It's not strictly true - it's a facsimile of the original. | 0:04:03 | 0:04:08 | |
The original was 1508, but in Victorian times, they rebuilt it. | 0:04:08 | 0:04:14 | |
They've rebuilt it very faithfully because it doesn't look Victorian. | 0:04:14 | 0:04:18 | |
Well, you know what the Victorians were like, they always liked to add, | 0:04:18 | 0:04:22 | |
but they resisted that temptation. They didn't put a clock face there. | 0:04:22 | 0:04:26 | |
They just built it as it was because it was so magnificent. | 0:04:26 | 0:04:30 | |
The restoration of the church and tower was overseen | 0:04:32 | 0:04:36 | |
by renowned Victorian architect George Gilbert Scott. | 0:04:36 | 0:04:39 | |
One of Britain's most prolific architects, | 0:04:39 | 0:04:43 | |
over 800 buildings in the UK were restored or designed by him, | 0:04:43 | 0:04:47 | |
including, in London, the St Pancras Midland Hotel | 0:04:47 | 0:04:51 | |
and the Albert Memorial in Kensington Gardens. | 0:04:51 | 0:04:54 | |
So, St Mary Magdalene's tower is in esteemed company. | 0:04:54 | 0:04:59 | |
Out into the glorious sunshine. | 0:04:59 | 0:05:00 | |
MICHAEL PANTS | 0:05:02 | 0:05:03 | |
As we came up, my heart was pounding more and more. | 0:05:03 | 0:05:06 | |
The steps were getting steeper and steeper, | 0:05:06 | 0:05:09 | |
and also, thinner and thinner! I have size 11 feet! | 0:05:09 | 0:05:12 | |
-MICHAEL SIGHS -Not easy... -Not easy. | 0:05:12 | 0:05:15 | |
Rod, having walked up all those steps, | 0:05:17 | 0:05:19 | |
gives you an appreciation of the task of building this tower in 1508 | 0:05:19 | 0:05:24 | |
and the Victorians rebuilding it. What do you know of the rebuilding? | 0:05:24 | 0:05:27 | |
There is a lovely story about the Victorian rebuild. | 0:05:27 | 0:05:30 | |
In those days, of course, | 0:05:30 | 0:05:32 | |
it was before they had a lot of mechanical help, | 0:05:32 | 0:05:35 | |
so the building was done by pulleys, blocks, tackles | 0:05:35 | 0:05:37 | |
and a donkey. | 0:05:37 | 0:05:39 | |
The donkey went backwards and forwards for several years | 0:05:39 | 0:05:42 | |
down Hammet Street, pulling the heavy stones up the tower. | 0:05:42 | 0:05:46 | |
Then, right at the end, | 0:05:46 | 0:05:48 | |
when the tower was finished in its magnificence, | 0:05:48 | 0:05:51 | |
the builders took the donkey all the way up, to here where we stand now, | 0:05:51 | 0:05:56 | |
to give him a good view of what he'd helped to build. | 0:05:56 | 0:06:00 | |
The donkey must have thought it was | 0:06:00 | 0:06:02 | |
-an "Eeyore-some" view. -Goodness me! | 0:06:02 | 0:06:04 | |
HE CHUCKLES Yes, I'm sure he did! | 0:06:04 | 0:06:07 | |
There is something else about the tower and that relates to the bells. | 0:06:07 | 0:06:12 | |
There are 15 bells - 12 are regularly rung - | 0:06:12 | 0:06:15 | |
but they are infamous in the bell-ringing world. | 0:06:15 | 0:06:18 | |
They are not terribly good, they need replacing. | 0:06:18 | 0:06:21 | |
Well, you just watch what happens when I call them up. | 0:06:21 | 0:06:25 | |
OK, folks, ready to ring. | 0:06:31 | 0:06:33 | |
BELLS RING | 0:06:33 | 0:06:35 | |
BELLS RING, MICHAEL LAUGHS | 0:06:44 | 0:06:47 | |
I know what happens! | 0:06:47 | 0:06:49 | |
The tower sways! | 0:06:49 | 0:06:51 | |
I am standing in the centre of the tower and it's going... | 0:06:51 | 0:06:54 | |
..wobbly... | 0:06:55 | 0:06:57 | |
BELLS CONTINUE | 0:06:57 | 0:06:59 | |
That's extraordinary, it really is moving from side to side. | 0:06:59 | 0:07:03 | |
I was once in a skyscraper in an earthquake and it felt like this. | 0:07:03 | 0:07:07 | |
-Luckily, I trust Victorian builders. -Yes. | 0:07:07 | 0:07:11 | |
BELLS PEAL | 0:07:11 | 0:07:13 | |
The Victorians' appetite for railway building meant that | 0:07:20 | 0:07:23 | |
by the end of the 19th century, | 0:07:23 | 0:07:25 | |
whilst mainlines joined the country's major cities, | 0:07:25 | 0:07:29 | |
branch lines had penetrated almost every corner of the country. | 0:07:29 | 0:07:32 | |
One such line, engineered by Brunel, was the West Somerset Railway, | 0:07:35 | 0:07:40 | |
which ran from Taunton to the Somerset coast. | 0:07:40 | 0:07:43 | |
Today the line starts five miles out of town. | 0:07:44 | 0:07:47 | |
When my Bradshaw's was written, the West Somerset line was new. | 0:07:49 | 0:07:53 | |
"14 miles long, It runs through Bishops Lydeard, Crowcombe, | 0:07:53 | 0:07:57 | |
"Stogumber and Williton, to the market town of Watchet." | 0:07:57 | 0:08:01 | |
Today, it runs from Bishops Lydeard to Minehead, | 0:08:01 | 0:08:04 | |
a distance of 20 miles, making it the longest stretch | 0:08:04 | 0:08:08 | |
of standard-gauge heritage railway in the United Kingdom. | 0:08:08 | 0:08:12 | |
I'm going on it, and I'm steaming with excitement. | 0:08:12 | 0:08:16 | |
I've done a lightning change, | 0:08:23 | 0:08:25 | |
because on this trip, not for me the passenger carriage. | 0:08:25 | 0:08:28 | |
No, I'm headed for the footplate. | 0:08:28 | 0:08:31 | |
Hello. Pleased to meet you, Michael. | 0:08:31 | 0:08:33 | |
-Can I come on? -Please do. Come aboard. | 0:08:33 | 0:08:36 | |
Driver Merv Hebditch has invited me to travel up front. | 0:08:36 | 0:08:41 | |
Always an exciting moment when your steam locomotive leaves the station. | 0:08:41 | 0:08:46 | |
TRAIN HISSES AND CHUGS | 0:08:46 | 0:08:49 | |
TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS | 0:08:49 | 0:08:51 | |
WHISTLE BLOWS | 0:08:51 | 0:08:52 | |
What a glorious sound this locomotive is making! | 0:08:55 | 0:08:59 | |
TRAIN HISSES AND CHUGS | 0:08:59 | 0:09:03 | |
Brunel was commissioned to build the line. | 0:09:09 | 0:09:12 | |
It was operated by the Bristol & Exeter Railway Company | 0:09:12 | 0:09:15 | |
and opened in 1862. Over a decade later, the line was taken over | 0:09:15 | 0:09:20 | |
by that most famous of railway companies | 0:09:20 | 0:09:23 | |
and one very close to Brunel's heart - the Great Western. | 0:09:23 | 0:09:26 | |
To be in England on a summer's day is bliss, | 0:09:28 | 0:09:31 | |
but to be on a steam locomotive in West Somerset is heaven. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:35 | |
Like other small rural branches, the line closed in the 1970s. | 0:09:38 | 0:09:43 | |
However, it reopened as a heritage railway some years later, | 0:09:43 | 0:09:46 | |
and is enjoyed today by passengers who like a ticket to nostalgia. | 0:09:46 | 0:09:51 | |
We've got quite a crowded train! | 0:09:52 | 0:09:54 | |
Why do you think the British people are so fascinated by steam engines? | 0:09:54 | 0:09:59 | |
They're just a living thing. | 0:09:59 | 0:10:01 | |
We put the fire in the morning, it comes to life, creates steam, | 0:10:02 | 0:10:05 | |
it makes a noise. I've been doing this 52 years, | 0:10:05 | 0:10:08 | |
and I still get a buzz out of it. | 0:10:08 | 0:10:10 | |
-I'd like to stay on, but this is my stop. -It'd be nice if you could. | 0:10:20 | 0:10:24 | |
I'm disembarking at Williton, | 0:10:25 | 0:10:27 | |
although it's only mentioned in passing in my Bradshaw's Guide. | 0:10:27 | 0:10:31 | |
I'm here to visit something that's a magnet for rail enthusiasts - | 0:10:31 | 0:10:34 | |
a signal box that's nearly as old as the line itself | 0:10:34 | 0:10:37 | |
and still operational. | 0:10:37 | 0:10:39 | |
'Signalman Nick Budd pulls the levers.' | 0:10:40 | 0:10:44 | |
-Hello! -Hello, Nick, that looks like hard work. | 0:10:44 | 0:10:48 | |
-It is. It's nice and warm today. -Are you a signalman, born and bred? | 0:10:48 | 0:10:52 | |
No, I was an airline captain, would you believe? | 0:10:52 | 0:10:56 | |
Then I gave it up, and decided to come here. | 0:10:56 | 0:11:00 | |
What did you used to fly? | 0:11:00 | 0:11:02 | |
Boeing 747s. | 0:11:02 | 0:11:04 | |
It just shows the railways attract allsorts. | 0:11:05 | 0:11:08 | |
So, in those days, you had 400 lives under your supervision, | 0:11:08 | 0:11:14 | |
-and you do today. -Absolutely. The only difference is speed. | 0:11:14 | 0:11:18 | |
In those days, I was flying planes at 650mph, | 0:11:18 | 0:11:20 | |
and today I'm controlling trains at 25mph. | 0:11:20 | 0:11:23 | |
-When's our next train? -The next train is in 20 minutes. | 0:11:23 | 0:11:27 | |
That doesn't sound like much time to a trainee signalman like me! | 0:11:27 | 0:11:32 | |
First, you set the route, and then the signals. | 0:11:34 | 0:11:38 | |
Now... | 0:11:38 | 0:11:40 | |
These levers are colour-coded. | 0:11:40 | 0:11:42 | |
The black ones are the points. | 0:11:42 | 0:11:44 | |
The blue ones LOCK the points. | 0:11:44 | 0:11:46 | |
The red ones are for signals. | 0:11:46 | 0:11:48 | |
The white ones are spare levers. | 0:11:48 | 0:11:50 | |
The one and only brown one locks and unlocks the gates | 0:11:50 | 0:11:54 | |
on the level crossing. | 0:11:54 | 0:11:56 | |
I think I'd rather fly a 747! That sounds pretty complicated! | 0:11:56 | 0:11:59 | |
Well, that's only the beginning. | 0:11:59 | 0:12:01 | |
'My first job is to close the gates.' | 0:12:02 | 0:12:05 | |
-Hope we are still in time. -I think, just. | 0:12:07 | 0:12:09 | |
'Next, they need to be locked.' | 0:12:09 | 0:12:12 | |
And home. | 0:12:12 | 0:12:14 | |
Time to put off the signal now. Number 23, please. | 0:12:15 | 0:12:18 | |
It is quite pressurised, isn't it? | 0:12:25 | 0:12:27 | |
The very idea that you're responsible for people's lives. | 0:12:27 | 0:12:30 | |
Usually, there's a train coming the other way at the same time. | 0:12:30 | 0:12:33 | |
'Thank goodness there isn't today! This is complicated enough!' | 0:12:33 | 0:12:38 | |
Signal. | 0:12:38 | 0:12:40 | |
Back. | 0:12:40 | 0:12:42 | |
Gates... | 0:12:45 | 0:12:47 | |
unlocked. | 0:12:47 | 0:12:49 | |
With the train in the station, now I have to open the gates again. | 0:12:49 | 0:12:53 | |
Oh, dear! How do these open? | 0:12:53 | 0:12:56 | |
Ah... | 0:12:58 | 0:13:00 | |
No. | 0:13:00 | 0:13:01 | |
There's a lever the other side. | 0:13:01 | 0:13:03 | |
Thank you, that was a helpful tip. There we go. | 0:13:03 | 0:13:07 | |
I had no idea that what a signalman needed to do | 0:13:11 | 0:13:13 | |
was so responsible and so physical. | 0:13:13 | 0:13:16 | |
OK, the train's here. The gates are open, | 0:13:18 | 0:13:22 | |
the signal's on. What next? | 0:13:22 | 0:13:25 | |
-Now we need a token for the train to go to the next signal box. -Right. | 0:13:25 | 0:13:29 | |
-Three and one? -Three and one. | 0:13:29 | 0:13:31 | |
KEY RATTLES | 0:13:38 | 0:13:40 | |
-Take it out. -I have to take that out? -That's it. | 0:13:43 | 0:13:45 | |
'This Victorian token system was a safety measure to ensure | 0:13:45 | 0:13:48 | |
'that no two trains could ever be on one stretch of single track | 0:13:48 | 0:13:53 | |
'at the same time. | 0:13:53 | 0:13:55 | |
'Only a driver with the token in his possession could proceed. | 0:13:55 | 0:13:59 | |
'Let's hope I've got this right!' | 0:13:59 | 0:14:01 | |
I think you're expecting this. | 0:14:01 | 0:14:03 | |
-You're not the signalman! -I am for now. | 0:14:03 | 0:14:07 | |
-Safe journey! -Thank you very much. -Bye, now. | 0:14:07 | 0:14:10 | |
-That went smoothly. -All we have to do now | 0:14:10 | 0:14:13 | |
is put that back in the machine, | 0:14:13 | 0:14:14 | |
so that we can get another one out sometime. | 0:14:14 | 0:14:18 | |
A kind offer, but I think that's my lot for the day. | 0:14:20 | 0:14:24 | |
For now, it's onwards. | 0:14:24 | 0:14:26 | |
I'm looking forward to experiencing the ride as a passenger. | 0:14:26 | 0:14:30 | |
My final stop of the day is Watchet, | 0:14:38 | 0:14:40 | |
which my Bradshaw's tells me has | 0:14:40 | 0:14:42 | |
"a coastguard station prettily seated | 0:14:42 | 0:14:44 | |
"in a secluded creek on the Bristol Channel." | 0:14:44 | 0:14:47 | |
It sounds like a delightful place to watch the last rays of the sun. | 0:14:47 | 0:14:51 | |
In the 19th century, Watchet was a busy commercial port, | 0:14:51 | 0:14:55 | |
shipping locally mined iron ore | 0:14:55 | 0:14:57 | |
across the Bristol Channel to the Welsh furnaces. | 0:14:57 | 0:15:00 | |
The only ships docking here today are sailboats and yachts, | 0:15:00 | 0:15:04 | |
as the port is now an active marina. | 0:15:04 | 0:15:07 | |
A beautiful sunset on the Somerset coast, | 0:15:09 | 0:15:12 | |
and I'm lucky to be in Watchet to watch it. | 0:15:12 | 0:15:15 | |
The sun has risen on another beautiful morning. | 0:15:26 | 0:15:29 | |
I'm continuing my journey north on this wonderful heritage line. | 0:15:31 | 0:15:36 | |
My Bradshaw's tells me that | 0:15:36 | 0:15:38 | |
"Dunster Castle, standing on the cliff to the south, | 0:15:38 | 0:15:42 | |
"is within a very short distance". But when my guide was published, | 0:15:42 | 0:15:45 | |
you couldn't get there by train. | 0:15:45 | 0:15:47 | |
Now you take the Dunster Castle Express. | 0:15:47 | 0:15:50 | |
For wealthy landowners in the rural wilds, | 0:15:58 | 0:16:01 | |
the arrival of the railway presented huge financial opportunities. | 0:16:01 | 0:16:05 | |
Some sought profit by allowing the rail companies to build tracks | 0:16:07 | 0:16:12 | |
through their estates, whilst others saw the potential | 0:16:12 | 0:16:15 | |
in bringing tourism and trade to their area. | 0:16:15 | 0:16:17 | |
One such champion was George Luttrell. | 0:16:20 | 0:16:22 | |
In 1867, he inherited the Dunster estate - | 0:16:22 | 0:16:26 | |
at the time, one of the largest in Somerset. | 0:16:26 | 0:16:30 | |
So keen was he to revitalise his corner of the county | 0:16:30 | 0:16:32 | |
that he backed plans to extend the line | 0:16:32 | 0:16:35 | |
from Watchet via Dunster to Minehead, | 0:16:35 | 0:16:38 | |
and he became the first director of this new railway. | 0:16:38 | 0:16:41 | |
And now, appearing out of the smoke from the engine | 0:16:44 | 0:16:47 | |
as though it were looming out of a mist, | 0:16:47 | 0:16:49 | |
is the magnificent sight of Dunster Castle, | 0:16:49 | 0:16:53 | |
brilliantly lit on this sunny day. | 0:16:53 | 0:16:55 | |
What a sight! | 0:16:56 | 0:16:58 | |
Today, Dunster is in the hands of the National Trust, | 0:17:18 | 0:17:22 | |
and volunteer guide Martin Harborne has kindly agreed to tell me more. | 0:17:22 | 0:17:27 | |
What a wonderful room. How old is the castle? | 0:17:29 | 0:17:32 | |
The castle, 1,000 years old. Originally there was a Saxon castle here, | 0:17:32 | 0:17:36 | |
then when the Normans arrived, they built there big stone castle. | 0:17:36 | 0:17:40 | |
-Then the Luttrells took it over? -Indeed. In 1376, they purchased it. | 0:17:40 | 0:17:45 | |
They were here an awfully long time. Was it 21 generations? | 0:17:45 | 0:17:48 | |
21 generations, 600 years, | 0:17:48 | 0:17:50 | |
right through until 1976, when the Luttrell family handed it over | 0:17:50 | 0:17:54 | |
to the National Trust for their custody. | 0:17:54 | 0:17:56 | |
I'm interested in one particular Luttrell, | 0:17:56 | 0:17:59 | |
a Victorian, George Luttrell. | 0:17:59 | 0:18:01 | |
George Fownes-Luttrell, that's his portrait up there, | 0:18:01 | 0:18:04 | |
and he was involved in the total alteration of the castle, | 0:18:04 | 0:18:08 | |
by the well-known architect of the day, Anthony Salvin. | 0:18:08 | 0:18:11 | |
What sorts of things did he do? | 0:18:11 | 0:18:14 | |
He completely transformed the castle from an Elizabethan-style castle, | 0:18:14 | 0:18:18 | |
where the family lived at one side, the servants lived on this side | 0:18:18 | 0:18:22 | |
and they entertained in the middle... | 0:18:22 | 0:18:24 | |
He turned it into a Victorian comfortable gentleman's residence | 0:18:24 | 0:18:28 | |
-with an upstairs and downstairs. -And using the latest technology? | 0:18:28 | 0:18:31 | |
Absolutely, yes, he wanted all the latest technology, | 0:18:31 | 0:18:34 | |
things that were almost unheard of down here - | 0:18:34 | 0:18:37 | |
bathrooms, and gas supplies and those sorts of things, | 0:18:37 | 0:18:41 | |
which, in the 1870s, was really cutting-edge stuff. | 0:18:41 | 0:18:44 | |
The remodelling took four years and cost over £25,000, | 0:18:46 | 0:18:50 | |
which was more than Luttrell's yearly income from the estate - | 0:18:50 | 0:18:54 | |
'a sobering £2.5 million in today's money.' | 0:18:54 | 0:18:57 | |
The billiards room was an important part of a Victorian household? | 0:19:02 | 0:19:07 | |
A most essential part. | 0:19:07 | 0:19:08 | |
This was a gentlemen's room. During the Victorian period, | 0:19:08 | 0:19:12 | |
this would have been full of the smells of cigars and brandy | 0:19:12 | 0:19:15 | |
and only the men were allowed in here. | 0:19:15 | 0:19:17 | |
Was this another innovation of George Fownes-Luttrell? | 0:19:17 | 0:19:20 | |
It was. Prior to the alternations, | 0:19:20 | 0:19:23 | |
this was the kitchen of the main house. | 0:19:23 | 0:19:27 | |
Unheard of in Victorian times, | 0:19:27 | 0:19:29 | |
parts of the house had central heating, and the new kitchen, | 0:19:29 | 0:19:33 | |
which was built in the basement, was well ventilated with windows. | 0:19:33 | 0:19:37 | |
It was also state-of-the-art. Mod cons included a two-oven cooker, | 0:19:38 | 0:19:44 | |
a built-in bain-marie and a dumbwaiter. | 0:19:44 | 0:19:48 | |
This pioneering attitude towards new technologies continues unabated. | 0:19:48 | 0:19:53 | |
In 2008, it became the first Grade I listed National Trust property | 0:19:53 | 0:19:57 | |
to have solar panels installed. | 0:19:57 | 0:20:00 | |
George Luttrell would be proud! | 0:20:00 | 0:20:03 | |
Can you think of anything you'd rather have than a beautiful castle? | 0:20:03 | 0:20:07 | |
I can - a beautiful castle with a view of steam trains. | 0:20:07 | 0:20:11 | |
And that's where I'm headed. | 0:20:17 | 0:20:19 | |
Back to Dunster station to pick up the extended line, | 0:20:19 | 0:20:23 | |
which so helped invigorate this rural corner of Somerset. | 0:20:23 | 0:20:27 | |
My journey continues through stunning Somerset toward Minehead, | 0:20:38 | 0:20:43 | |
which my Bradshaw's describes as "a beautiful watering hole". | 0:20:43 | 0:20:47 | |
But when the railway reached there from 1874, | 0:20:47 | 0:20:51 | |
then holiday-makers began to arrive by the train load. | 0:20:51 | 0:20:55 | |
Formerly a small fishing port, Minehead was already popular | 0:20:57 | 0:21:01 | |
amongst the wealthy as a fashionable sea-bathing resort | 0:21:01 | 0:21:04 | |
from as early as 1752. | 0:21:04 | 0:21:07 | |
However, it wasn't until train travel | 0:21:09 | 0:21:12 | |
that it became easily accessible and affordable for the middle classes. | 0:21:12 | 0:21:17 | |
The West Somerset Railway should have linked | 0:21:17 | 0:21:19 | |
across the Porlocks with the Lynton to Barnstaple line, | 0:21:19 | 0:21:24 | |
but even for the Victorians, those hills proved too great an obstacle, | 0:21:24 | 0:21:28 | |
and so, Minehead is the end of the line. | 0:21:28 | 0:21:31 | |
-Hello. -Hello! -How was the train journey? -Wonderful, stunning. | 0:21:51 | 0:21:55 | |
-Do you know Minehead? -Not at all. | 0:21:55 | 0:21:57 | |
-Are you going in to have a look? -Yes. Where do you suggest we go? | 0:21:57 | 0:22:01 | |
All I know is my Bradshaw's calls it a beautiful watering hole. | 0:22:01 | 0:22:05 | |
-Oh! -So, sounds like we've got something to look forward to. | 0:22:05 | 0:22:10 | |
-A pint or a gin and tonic? -Could be either! Enjoy your day! Bye-bye! | 0:22:10 | 0:22:16 | |
Today the station is packed with steam fans, | 0:22:18 | 0:22:21 | |
but in Victorian times, it was tourists from the Big Smoke | 0:22:21 | 0:22:24 | |
and South Wales crowding the platform. | 0:22:24 | 0:22:26 | |
I'm meeting General Manager of this heritage railway, Paul Conibeare. | 0:22:28 | 0:22:32 | |
-Paul, hello. -Michael, welcome to Minehead. | 0:22:32 | 0:22:35 | |
It's a vast station with these great, long platforms. | 0:22:35 | 0:22:39 | |
That emphasises how important it was in its heyday. | 0:22:39 | 0:22:42 | |
Yes, it was a very busy Great Western terminus, | 0:22:42 | 0:22:44 | |
and it's very long to cope with the visitors it anticipated on the day. | 0:22:44 | 0:22:48 | |
It is the terminus. I can see hills ahead - | 0:22:48 | 0:22:51 | |
presumably the Porlocks are what prevented it from going further. | 0:22:51 | 0:22:54 | |
There were plans to go to Porlock and Lynmouth, but Sir George Newnes, | 0:22:54 | 0:22:57 | |
who was involved in the Lynton-Barnstaple railway | 0:22:57 | 0:23:00 | |
didn't want the riff-raff in their part of the world. | 0:23:00 | 0:23:02 | |
-The riff-raff from Minehead? -Yes. | 0:23:02 | 0:23:05 | |
I notice, on your trains, that you have the engine on the front. | 0:23:05 | 0:23:10 | |
That must imply that you have some way of turning them around? | 0:23:10 | 0:23:15 | |
Luckily, we've invested in a new turntable, which was fitted in 2008, | 0:23:15 | 0:23:19 | |
to provide the ability for the first time since the early '60s | 0:23:19 | 0:23:22 | |
to turn the locomotives so they face the right direction | 0:23:22 | 0:23:25 | |
for the cameras and the visitors to the railway! | 0:23:25 | 0:23:28 | |
The turning-around of extremely heavy locomotives was a problem | 0:23:28 | 0:23:32 | |
that confronted rail companies until the dawn of the diesel era. | 0:23:32 | 0:23:36 | |
At Minehead, they had to be turned in a locomotive shed | 0:23:36 | 0:23:39 | |
some distance from the tracks - | 0:23:39 | 0:23:41 | |
a slow process, which ate into the efficiency of the line. | 0:23:41 | 0:23:45 | |
The shed was demolished in the 1960s. | 0:23:45 | 0:23:47 | |
This new turntable - a Victorian original for the most part - | 0:23:49 | 0:23:53 | |
was purchased in 1974, but due to lack of funding and space, | 0:23:53 | 0:23:57 | |
it wasn't put in place until 2008. | 0:23:57 | 0:24:00 | |
We now have a locomotive weighing 110 tonnes, | 0:24:00 | 0:24:03 | |
which our driver, David, will show you how to turn. | 0:24:03 | 0:24:07 | |
I'll just use my little finger. Hello, David. Reporting for duty, sir. | 0:24:07 | 0:24:10 | |
-We're just going to push it, are we? -Just push it. -OK, here goes. | 0:24:12 | 0:24:15 | |
HE GROANS | 0:24:17 | 0:24:19 | |
She's moving. I can't believe it. | 0:24:19 | 0:24:22 | |
Don't know about you, David, but I'm putting quite a lot of... | 0:24:22 | 0:24:25 | |
-effort into this. -I have weight on my side! | 0:24:25 | 0:24:29 | |
And now...that it's...in motion... | 0:24:29 | 0:24:33 | |
it gets a little bit...easier, because... | 0:24:33 | 0:24:36 | |
it...has...momentum. | 0:24:36 | 0:24:39 | |
Somebody tells me that stopping this thing | 0:24:39 | 0:24:42 | |
-is even harder than getting it going. -I'll do the stopping. -OK. | 0:24:42 | 0:24:47 | |
We're arriving...at our end point... | 0:24:49 | 0:24:53 | |
I'm ceasing to push, cos it's moving on its own momentum | 0:24:54 | 0:24:56 | |
and you're now braking it. | 0:24:56 | 0:24:58 | |
And, ohhh... | 0:25:00 | 0:25:02 | |
Overshot a tiny bit. | 0:25:02 | 0:25:04 | |
Just easing it back. | 0:25:05 | 0:25:08 | |
You're learning to do that pretty well. | 0:25:08 | 0:25:10 | |
Ah... | 0:25:10 | 0:25:12 | |
Next time, I'll do it alone. | 0:25:14 | 0:25:16 | |
-APPLAUSE -What can I say? | 0:25:20 | 0:25:23 | |
Thanks to the likes of George Newnes, | 0:25:27 | 0:25:30 | |
a key player in establishing the twin resorts of Lynton and Lynmouth, | 0:25:30 | 0:25:34 | |
the rail link was never built. | 0:25:34 | 0:25:37 | |
So I can go no further by train. | 0:25:37 | 0:25:40 | |
Instead, I'll cross the impenetrable Porlock Hill by road | 0:25:40 | 0:25:43 | |
to reach the next notable attraction mentioned in my guide. | 0:25:43 | 0:25:47 | |
Bradshaw says that tourists "should proceed to the far-famed | 0:25:48 | 0:25:51 | |
"valley of the rocks on foot, along the cliff wall, | 0:25:51 | 0:25:55 | |
"whence the scenery is very fine. | 0:25:55 | 0:25:57 | |
"The view in the valley is exceedingly grand. | 0:25:57 | 0:26:00 | |
"He should employ a guide to accompany him on his first visit," | 0:26:00 | 0:26:05 | |
and mine is called Terry. | 0:26:05 | 0:26:08 | |
-Hello. -Hello, Michael. -What gave rise to these formations of rock? | 0:26:09 | 0:26:15 | |
One time, the river ran through here, carving out this valley, | 0:26:15 | 0:26:20 | |
then the river diverted to its present course running into Lynmouth. | 0:26:20 | 0:26:24 | |
The crags you can see here | 0:26:24 | 0:26:26 | |
were mainly caused by the weathering action | 0:26:26 | 0:26:28 | |
over thousands of years, leaving complicated and intriguing shapes. | 0:26:28 | 0:26:34 | |
Beautiful view. It does take your breath away. | 0:26:37 | 0:26:39 | |
At this point, we're about 500ft above sea level. | 0:26:39 | 0:26:43 | |
-Whoa, it's a long way down. -Yes. | 0:26:43 | 0:26:46 | |
-So, who created this path? -It was one of the hotel owners. | 0:26:46 | 0:26:49 | |
He wanted it for his tourists. He wanted a romantic walk, | 0:26:49 | 0:26:53 | |
something that was sensational. | 0:26:53 | 0:26:55 | |
It must've attracted painters and writers over the years. | 0:26:55 | 0:26:58 | |
It did. Some of the early visitors were Keats and Shelley. | 0:26:58 | 0:27:02 | |
They went home and romanced about this place | 0:27:02 | 0:27:05 | |
and they nicknamed it "Little Switzerland". | 0:27:05 | 0:27:08 | |
At one point, it was said it was the grandest walk in England. | 0:27:08 | 0:27:12 | |
I've had a wonderful journey from Taunton, | 0:27:27 | 0:27:29 | |
enjoying travel, Victorian-style, by steam train. | 0:27:29 | 0:27:33 | |
I've filled my lungs with smoke and my eyes with smuts. | 0:27:33 | 0:27:37 | |
What better place to blow them away, than here on the Devon cliffs | 0:27:37 | 0:27:40 | |
where the romantic poets drew inspiration - | 0:27:40 | 0:27:43 | |
one of the finest views in England. | 0:27:43 | 0:27:45 | |
On my next journey, I get up close with a piece of natural history... | 0:27:51 | 0:27:55 | |
It's a moa egg, it's an extinct bird from New Zealand. | 0:27:55 | 0:27:59 | |
There's only 36 specimens of a decent size been catalogued in the world. | 0:27:59 | 0:28:04 | |
I visit a garden used as a viewing platform for public hangings... | 0:28:04 | 0:28:09 | |
We've got three tiers going up, | 0:28:09 | 0:28:11 | |
and according to the records, they were full. | 0:28:11 | 0:28:14 | |
It was shoulder-to-shoulder, line-to-line of people. | 0:28:14 | 0:28:16 | |
..and encounter a timepiece like no other. | 0:28:16 | 0:28:19 | |
In my political career, Peter, I met a few two-faced liars, | 0:28:19 | 0:28:22 | |
but this is my first experience of a four-faced liar. | 0:28:22 | 0:28:25 | |
-One of them's correct, though! -THEY LAUGH | 0:28:25 | 0:28:28 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:28:43 | 0:28:46 |