Browse content similar to London Euston to Cheddington. Check below for episodes and series from the same categories and more!
Line | From | To | |
---|---|---|---|
In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. | 0:00:05 | 0:00:10 | |
His name was George Bradshaw | 0:00:10 | 0:00:12 | |
and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. | 0:00:12 | 0:00:16 | |
Stop by stop, he told them where to go, | 0:00:17 | 0:00:20 | |
what to see and where to stay. | 0:00:20 | 0:00:23 | |
and now, 170 years later, I'm aboard for a series of rail adventures | 0:00:24 | 0:00:29 | |
across the United Kingdom | 0:00:29 | 0:00:31 | |
to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains. | 0:00:31 | 0:00:34 | |
1837 is a year that lives in British history. | 0:00:54 | 0:00:59 | |
In that June, King William IV died and his niece, | 0:00:59 | 0:01:03 | |
Victoria, became queen, | 0:01:03 | 0:01:05 | |
at barely 18 years of age. | 0:01:05 | 0:01:07 | |
In the following month, | 0:01:07 | 0:01:09 | |
there opened the first section of a hugely ambitious railway | 0:01:09 | 0:01:13 | |
designed and built by the great engineer Robert Stephenson, | 0:01:13 | 0:01:17 | |
providing a high-speed link between London and Birmingham, | 0:01:17 | 0:01:22 | |
two of the greatest cities on the globe. | 0:01:22 | 0:01:24 | |
I'm beginning my journey through the heart of England at the London | 0:01:24 | 0:01:28 | |
terminus designed by Stephenson, with suitable splendour - Euston. | 0:01:28 | 0:01:33 | |
I'm starting on the urban commuter lines of London. | 0:01:39 | 0:01:43 | |
Then heading north on the London Midland line | 0:01:43 | 0:01:45 | |
on to the manufacturing heartlands of Northamptonshire and Warwickshire. | 0:01:45 | 0:01:50 | |
After making stops in the East Midlands, | 0:01:50 | 0:01:52 | |
my journey will conclude in Yorkshire. | 0:01:52 | 0:01:55 | |
Today, I'll travel under and over ground to the outskirts of the metropolis at Harrow, | 0:01:55 | 0:02:01 | |
before moving on to Tring and the Buckinghamshire town of Cheddington. | 0:02:01 | 0:02:05 | |
On the first leg of this adventure, | 0:02:05 | 0:02:07 | |
I discover an underground warehouse which once served the Empire. | 0:02:07 | 0:02:11 | |
So this was for the storage of beer, was it? | 0:02:11 | 0:02:14 | |
It's an amazing labyrinth, isn't it? It goes on and on and on. | 0:02:14 | 0:02:18 | |
I hear the tale of a millionaire eccentric who turned his home into an exotic museum. | 0:02:18 | 0:02:23 | |
He would be seen driving around with his four zebras? | 0:02:23 | 0:02:26 | |
Both here and also in Piccadilly in London. | 0:02:26 | 0:02:30 | |
And I travel to a point on the line that witnessed an abrupt end | 0:02:30 | 0:02:33 | |
to the railway's age of innocence. | 0:02:33 | 0:02:36 | |
There was quite a big gang. | 0:02:36 | 0:02:37 | |
There's 15 guys, and they formed a human chain down this abutment | 0:02:37 | 0:02:40 | |
and passed the mailbags down. 2.6 million in 120 mail bags. | 0:02:40 | 0:02:44 | |
Sadly, arriving at Euston, Bradshaw's is less than | 0:02:56 | 0:02:59 | |
usually reliable. | 0:02:59 | 0:03:01 | |
"Passing under the magnificent Doric entrance, | 0:03:01 | 0:03:04 | |
"which forms so grand a feature of the metropolitan terminus of this | 0:03:04 | 0:03:08 | |
"railway, the huge pile of building at once arrests the eye. | 0:03:08 | 0:03:14 | |
"The style of architecture is Roman and has been treated with great skill." | 0:03:14 | 0:03:19 | |
What happened to all that classical grandeur, that it should come to this? | 0:03:20 | 0:03:26 | |
Stephenson's grand Euston opened in 1837 with the first | 0:03:33 | 0:03:38 | |
inter-city trains running all the way to Birmingham. | 0:03:38 | 0:03:40 | |
To find out what happened to all that splendour, I'm meeting up | 0:03:40 | 0:03:44 | |
with architectural historian Robert Hradsky | 0:03:44 | 0:03:46 | |
to discover more about the station's heritage. | 0:03:46 | 0:03:50 | |
-Robert, Hello. -Hi. -I get the impression from Bradshaw's that | 0:03:50 | 0:03:53 | |
Euston Station when it opened was extraordinarily grand. | 0:03:53 | 0:03:57 | |
What would the early Victorian railway traveller have seen here? | 0:03:57 | 0:04:00 | |
As you arrived, you would have seen this immense stone arch, | 0:04:00 | 0:04:04 | |
the Euston Arch. | 0:04:04 | 0:04:06 | |
The Euston Arch was the very first great monument of the railway age. | 0:04:06 | 0:04:10 | |
So what happened to it all, this wonderful arch? Where's it gone? | 0:04:10 | 0:04:14 | |
It was demolished in the 1960s. | 0:04:14 | 0:04:17 | |
It wasn't just the arch that was lost. There was a great complex. | 0:04:17 | 0:04:22 | |
there was a wonderful | 0:04:22 | 0:04:24 | |
ticket office, a great hall, there was a shareholders' meeting room. | 0:04:24 | 0:04:28 | |
In fact, there was a great campaign to save the arch. | 0:04:28 | 0:04:31 | |
It was spearheaded by John Betjeman and Nikolaus Pevsner. | 0:04:31 | 0:04:35 | |
They met the Prime Minister, Harold Macmillan. He didn't care. | 0:04:35 | 0:04:39 | |
-Today, people would be aghast. -Yes. | 0:04:39 | 0:04:42 | |
But at the time, in the 1960s, | 0:04:42 | 0:04:45 | |
the attitude towards 19th century architecture was quite different. | 0:04:45 | 0:04:49 | |
Yes. | 0:04:49 | 0:04:50 | |
I don't remember the old Euston, | 0:04:50 | 0:04:52 | |
but I do remember when the new Euston opened and I'm afraid | 0:04:52 | 0:04:55 | |
I was one of the philistines, you know I thought this was | 0:04:55 | 0:04:57 | |
fantastic because this was like an air terminal, this was the modern world. | 0:04:57 | 0:05:02 | |
And I do now feel as though I was, really, a cultural vandal. | 0:05:02 | 0:05:08 | |
And it was total architectural desecration. | 0:05:08 | 0:05:11 | |
Some of the stone ended up in a demolition worker's house | 0:05:11 | 0:05:15 | |
while most of the rest went to fill a hole at the bottom of a London canal. | 0:05:15 | 0:05:19 | |
In 1994, divers went down into the Prescott Channel | 0:05:21 | 0:05:25 | |
near the River Lea - the final resting place for the arch. | 0:05:25 | 0:05:29 | |
The Trust now has great plans to rebuild the arch at Euston | 0:05:32 | 0:05:36 | |
and to reinstate the station's lost grandeur, | 0:05:36 | 0:05:39 | |
something which shows proper respect for the engineer | 0:05:39 | 0:05:42 | |
of the London to Birmingham line, Robert Stephenson. | 0:05:42 | 0:05:45 | |
Nowadays, the journey from Euston to Camden takes about four minutes | 0:05:59 | 0:06:03 | |
on the Northern Line of the London Underground. | 0:06:03 | 0:06:06 | |
But in the early days of the London to Birmingham Railway, | 0:06:06 | 0:06:09 | |
this short section represented an enormous challenge, | 0:06:09 | 0:06:13 | |
which was met by a typically radical Victorian engineering solution. | 0:06:13 | 0:06:18 | |
Camden Town is on a slight hill above Euston. | 0:06:21 | 0:06:24 | |
And for Stephenson's early locomotives, | 0:06:24 | 0:06:27 | |
the incline proved too steep. | 0:06:27 | 0:06:29 | |
So he came up with an ingenious plan - a winding engine to | 0:06:29 | 0:06:33 | |
pull trains up the incline by means of a 3,700 metre-long endless rope. | 0:06:33 | 0:06:39 | |
It was powered by two 60-horsepower steam engines. | 0:06:39 | 0:06:44 | |
In their day, | 0:06:44 | 0:06:45 | |
the winding engine towers became something of a tourist attraction. | 0:06:45 | 0:06:49 | |
But within seven years, | 0:06:49 | 0:06:50 | |
the winding engine was redundant | 0:06:50 | 0:06:52 | |
because of advances in locomotive technology and a tighter timetable. | 0:06:52 | 0:06:57 | |
Bradshaw's tells me that "the internal economy of a railway, | 0:06:57 | 0:07:01 | |
"and the activity, regularity, | 0:07:01 | 0:07:03 | |
"and order with which these great undertakings are conducted, | 0:07:03 | 0:07:07 | |
"may be gathered from a visit to the Camden Town Goods Station." | 0:07:07 | 0:07:12 | |
Extraordinary to believe that | 0:07:12 | 0:07:13 | |
while Euston was the passenger terminus, the meeting point | 0:07:13 | 0:07:18 | |
of the goods and services of the British Empire was here at Camden. | 0:07:18 | 0:07:23 | |
I have to know more. | 0:07:23 | 0:07:25 | |
Looking at today's sprawling warren of streets, | 0:07:29 | 0:07:31 | |
it's hard to believe that Camden Town as we know it | 0:07:31 | 0:07:34 | |
began life in the 1790s | 0:07:34 | 0:07:36 | |
as little more than a handful of buildings. | 0:07:36 | 0:07:39 | |
I've come to meet Peter Darley, | 0:07:39 | 0:07:42 | |
founder of Camden Railway Heritage Trust. | 0:07:42 | 0:07:44 | |
I love the canals here in Camden. | 0:07:46 | 0:07:49 | |
Does that mean that actually there was a history of freight | 0:07:49 | 0:07:53 | |
-here in Camden before the railways? -There was indeed. | 0:07:53 | 0:07:56 | |
The Regent's Canal linked the Grand Junction Canal | 0:07:56 | 0:07:59 | |
at Paddington Basin to the docks at Limehouse. | 0:07:59 | 0:08:02 | |
So this was a way of getting trade from the Midlands | 0:08:02 | 0:08:05 | |
all the way through and the north of England all the way through to the docks. | 0:08:05 | 0:08:10 | |
Everything from iron to coal would arrive into Camden | 0:08:10 | 0:08:13 | |
and then be taken on by barge to the Thames - some of it for export. | 0:08:13 | 0:08:19 | |
It would have seemed as busy then as the M25 does today | 0:08:19 | 0:08:22 | |
and each of the heavily laden barges would have been pulled by a horse. | 0:08:22 | 0:08:27 | |
If you look carefully, you can still see traces of where the horses | 0:08:27 | 0:08:30 | |
towed barges from the lock across this bridge. | 0:08:30 | 0:08:34 | |
It's extraordinary to think that cast iron could be worn away | 0:08:34 | 0:08:37 | |
like that by a rope pulled by a horse. That's amazing. | 0:08:37 | 0:08:41 | |
But it was the sand and silicon that was picked up by the cotton rope | 0:08:41 | 0:08:45 | |
from the bottom of the canal that really affected the wear. | 0:08:45 | 0:08:49 | |
You've got to have respect for those horses, though - my goodness! | 0:08:49 | 0:08:53 | |
To understand better the impact of the arrival of the railway | 0:08:53 | 0:08:57 | |
on the Regent's Canal, Peter's taking me on to the waterway. | 0:08:57 | 0:09:00 | |
I'm going to see how goods would have been brought in by boat | 0:09:00 | 0:09:04 | |
and above the canal, by road and rail. | 0:09:04 | 0:09:07 | |
This is the interchange warehouse. | 0:09:07 | 0:09:09 | |
So interchanging what? Between water and railway and road? | 0:09:09 | 0:09:13 | |
Yes indeed. There were all manner of hoists and opening doors that allowed | 0:09:13 | 0:09:19 | |
goods to be taken from road and rail and stored in the warehouse. | 0:09:19 | 0:09:25 | |
The warehouse was designed to mechanise the whole | 0:09:25 | 0:09:28 | |
process of freight transport. | 0:09:28 | 0:09:30 | |
It became a gigantic goods distribution centre | 0:09:30 | 0:09:33 | |
and the fortress-like building needed to be very strong, | 0:09:33 | 0:09:37 | |
safe enough to store valuables such as wines, | 0:09:37 | 0:09:39 | |
spirits and silk as well as beer, coal and lime. | 0:09:39 | 0:09:43 | |
First, the boats had to negotiate this watery entrance with | 0:09:45 | 0:09:49 | |
the inauspicious name of Dead Dog Basin. | 0:09:49 | 0:09:52 | |
It's quite spooky in here, actually, isn't it? Bit dirty. | 0:09:52 | 0:09:55 | |
I think you call this guano. There's a lot of bird life in here, isn't there? | 0:09:55 | 0:09:58 | |
There certainly is a lot of pigeons nesting in here. | 0:09:58 | 0:10:01 | |
It's vast! Tell me about the scale of it. | 0:10:01 | 0:10:04 | |
Well, it was designed for 16 different narrow boats. | 0:10:04 | 0:10:08 | |
They could park sort of four across. | 0:10:08 | 0:10:12 | |
It's very impressive, isn't it? | 0:10:12 | 0:10:14 | |
It really is, I think, a symbol of the confidence of the railway | 0:10:14 | 0:10:19 | |
company in its ability to move goods around the world and around London. | 0:10:19 | 0:10:23 | |
Here we are in the 1855 vaults. | 0:10:25 | 0:10:28 | |
It was originally for the storage of beer. | 0:10:28 | 0:10:31 | |
It's an amazing labyrinth. Goes on and on and on. | 0:10:31 | 0:10:35 | |
And I always admire the Victorian brickies. | 0:10:35 | 0:10:39 | |
They were real skilled craftsmen, weren't they? | 0:10:39 | 0:10:42 | |
Everything is so beautifully arched and vaulted. | 0:10:42 | 0:10:45 | |
And these vaults are... extend over probably about half an acre. | 0:10:45 | 0:10:51 | |
It's a whole secret world, isn't it? | 0:10:52 | 0:10:54 | |
This is what I like to see - railway lines, | 0:10:57 | 0:11:01 | |
and my Bradshaw's is rather eloquent on this. | 0:11:01 | 0:11:05 | |
"During the six months ended August 1848, | 0:11:05 | 0:11:10 | |
"73,732 railway wagon loads of goods | 0:11:10 | 0:11:14 | |
"entered and departed from Camden Station." | 0:11:14 | 0:11:17 | |
That's quite a thought, isn't it? | 0:11:17 | 0:11:19 | |
Once at Camden, horse-drawn wagons would have been waiting to | 0:11:19 | 0:11:22 | |
take the goods in to the city. | 0:11:22 | 0:11:24 | |
At the busiest times, there would have been 800 horses working here. | 0:11:24 | 0:11:28 | |
I think of the Victorian era as being highly mechanised and it's | 0:11:29 | 0:11:32 | |
easy to forget that of course they were still dependent on horses. | 0:11:32 | 0:11:35 | |
Almost every railway journey | 0:11:35 | 0:11:38 | |
was started behind one plodding horse and finished behind another. | 0:11:38 | 0:11:43 | |
But for the next leg of my journey, horses won't be much use. | 0:11:43 | 0:11:47 | |
I'm using London's newest rail service, the London Overground, | 0:11:47 | 0:11:50 | |
providing a 21st-century link that orbits the capital. | 0:11:50 | 0:11:55 | |
Next stop, Willesden Junction. | 0:11:55 | 0:11:58 | |
Willesden Junction, first built by Robert Stephenson | 0:12:05 | 0:12:08 | |
in 1841 as part of the London-Birmingham Railway. | 0:12:08 | 0:12:12 | |
The junction occurs between trains that are moving from east to west | 0:12:12 | 0:12:15 | |
at this higher level and I'm going down below, | 0:12:15 | 0:12:18 | |
where the trains go from south to north. | 0:12:18 | 0:12:21 | |
Bradshaw's is enthusiastic about my next stop - | 0:12:34 | 0:12:37 | |
"On account of the delightful prospect which the | 0:12:37 | 0:12:39 | |
"churchyard of Harrow Hill affords, it's a place of frequent resort." | 0:12:39 | 0:12:43 | |
"Crossing the meadow from the station, we reach the foot of the hill | 0:12:44 | 0:12:48 | |
"and if we ascend the summit, the view deserves all the encomiums | 0:12:48 | 0:12:53 | |
"bestowed upon it." | 0:12:53 | 0:12:55 | |
Well, I know Harrow pretty well myself and I don't | 0:12:55 | 0:12:58 | |
think we're going to find a meadow between the station and the hill. | 0:12:58 | 0:13:02 | |
In 1841, Harrow was safely distant from the capital's rapid expansion. | 0:13:04 | 0:13:09 | |
But by the time my family moved to neighbouring Stanmore in 1954, | 0:13:09 | 0:13:14 | |
Harrow was already a major commuter town. | 0:13:14 | 0:13:18 | |
Harrow School was famed for educating a notorious and | 0:13:18 | 0:13:21 | |
illustrious array of boys, from Byron to Peel and Churchill. | 0:13:21 | 0:13:26 | |
I'm curious to see how the town has changed, | 0:13:26 | 0:13:29 | |
not just since Bradshaw's day, but from my own school days. | 0:13:29 | 0:13:35 | |
You probably thought it was just my bad taste that made me | 0:13:35 | 0:13:37 | |
wear things like this but no - | 0:13:37 | 0:13:39 | |
this is the blazer of my old boys' association | 0:13:39 | 0:13:43 | |
from my old school which is behind me. | 0:13:43 | 0:13:46 | |
Harrow school, the posh one, is at the top of the hill and here at the bottom, | 0:13:46 | 0:13:49 | |
the lowly grammar school, for bright boys from ordinary families. | 0:13:49 | 0:13:54 | |
We felt a rivalry with the public school, | 0:13:54 | 0:13:57 | |
mixed with inverted snobbery. | 0:13:57 | 0:14:00 | |
"Worth not birth" was our school motto | 0:14:00 | 0:14:02 | |
and our school song began, "Worth not birth will be our battle cry". | 0:14:02 | 0:14:08 | |
I came to Harrow County in 1964. | 0:14:10 | 0:14:12 | |
Here I am aged 17 and I haven't changed a bit. | 0:14:14 | 0:14:18 | |
I like to recall those days. | 0:14:18 | 0:14:20 | |
Returning to these familiar haunts reminds me just how much I owe to my school. | 0:14:20 | 0:14:28 | |
Well, the view from the churchyard at the top of Harrow Hill | 0:14:28 | 0:14:31 | |
is, as Bradshaw says, a delightful one. | 0:14:31 | 0:14:34 | |
"Of the wide, rich valley through which the Thames | 0:14:34 | 0:14:37 | |
"stretches its sinuous course, embracing | 0:14:37 | 0:14:40 | |
"a view of the fertile portions of Buckinghamshire and Berkshire." | 0:14:40 | 0:14:45 | |
Now this is very interesting - the gravestone of Thomas Port. | 0:14:47 | 0:14:52 | |
"Bright rose the morn and vig'rous rose poor Port | 0:14:52 | 0:14:56 | |
"Gay on the train, he used his wonted sport. | 0:14:56 | 0:14:59 | |
"Ere noon arrived, his mangled form they bore, | 0:14:59 | 0:15:03 | |
"With pain distorted and o'erwhelm'd with gore. | 0:15:03 | 0:15:07 | |
"When evening came, to close the fatal day | 0:15:07 | 0:15:10 | |
"A mutilated corpse the sufferer lay." | 0:15:10 | 0:15:14 | |
Commemorating an early victim of a railway accident. | 0:15:14 | 0:15:18 | |
His tragic death in 1838 | 0:15:22 | 0:15:24 | |
was one of the railway's first fatalities | 0:15:24 | 0:15:26 | |
but unfortunately, it wasn't the last in Harrow. | 0:15:26 | 0:15:30 | |
'On a misty October morning, tragedy came to North London, | 0:15:31 | 0:15:36 | |
'when a local train was standing at Harrow and Wealdstone station, | 0:15:36 | 0:15:39 | |
'crowded with workers on their way to the city, | 0:15:39 | 0:15:42 | |
'the Perth night express came thundering in. | 0:15:42 | 0:15:45 | |
'Then, to add to the horror, the Liverpool-bound train roared in at 60mph, | 0:15:45 | 0:15:50 | |
'piling up into a hell of wreckage and human suffering.' | 0:15:50 | 0:15:53 | |
112 people died and more than 300 were injured in England's | 0:15:57 | 0:16:02 | |
most catastrophic railway accident. | 0:16:02 | 0:16:05 | |
For me, the tragedy has some personal resonance | 0:16:05 | 0:16:08 | |
so I'm meeting railway journalist Gareth Edwards | 0:16:08 | 0:16:11 | |
to find out more. | 0:16:11 | 0:16:12 | |
Gareth, I wanted to talk about the terrible rail disaster of 1952. | 0:16:14 | 0:16:19 | |
My brother was at school in the area and he told me he has some memory of it. | 0:16:19 | 0:16:23 | |
I think they came to the school | 0:16:23 | 0:16:25 | |
appealing for some of the older boys to come down and give blood. | 0:16:25 | 0:16:28 | |
How does it unfold? | 0:16:28 | 0:16:30 | |
Well, the person who kind of really sees it unfold is the signalman at the time. | 0:16:30 | 0:16:34 | |
That was Signalman Armitage, | 0:16:34 | 0:16:35 | |
and as the express was coming down from Scotland into Euston, | 0:16:35 | 0:16:41 | |
he stopped it here. | 0:16:41 | 0:16:43 | |
-Travelling maybe at that sort of speed? -Yes. | 0:16:43 | 0:16:46 | |
Cos we're far enough from Euston here | 0:16:46 | 0:16:48 | |
but the trains are going fast in both directions. | 0:16:48 | 0:16:51 | |
Now, because of those speeds, there was a range of signals between here and Watford Tunnel, | 0:16:51 | 0:16:56 | |
which is where the express train was coming through, and Signalman Armitage set all three | 0:16:56 | 0:17:01 | |
of those signals to make sure that the express train stopped. | 0:17:01 | 0:17:04 | |
The reason he did that was because at the time, | 0:17:04 | 0:17:06 | |
there was a very packed commuter train sitting here at Harrow station. | 0:17:06 | 0:17:10 | |
suddenly out of the mist, Signalman Armitage sees this train | 0:17:10 | 0:17:14 | |
just pouring towards the station about 50-60mph. | 0:17:14 | 0:17:16 | |
He lurches across the signal box. | 0:17:16 | 0:17:18 | |
He tries to set the signal to stop it but it's too late. | 0:17:18 | 0:17:21 | |
And to his horror, he kind of realises that there's going to be an accident. | 0:17:21 | 0:17:25 | |
In that split second, he frantically leans back across the signal box | 0:17:25 | 0:17:29 | |
and tries to grab the lever to warn another express that's | 0:17:29 | 0:17:32 | |
coming in on the Euston line but unfortunately, it's too late. | 0:17:32 | 0:17:35 | |
The express train from Scotland goes straight into the back | 0:17:35 | 0:17:38 | |
of the commuter train and then, as the wreckage is still there, | 0:17:38 | 0:17:41 | |
this fast train coming up from Euston slides into the wreckage. | 0:17:41 | 0:17:46 | |
The death toll could have been far worse had it not | 0:17:46 | 0:17:49 | |
been for the fast response of US Air Force medical personnel, | 0:17:49 | 0:17:53 | |
some of whom had been caught up in the accident. | 0:17:53 | 0:17:56 | |
They were able to give medical assistance on the spot. | 0:17:56 | 0:17:59 | |
But this shocking tragedy could have been avoided | 0:18:00 | 0:18:03 | |
and lessons about rail safety needed to be learnt quickly. | 0:18:03 | 0:18:07 | |
Harrow is ultimately the result of driver failure. | 0:18:08 | 0:18:11 | |
It really highlights that sometimes the human element isn't enough - | 0:18:11 | 0:18:14 | |
you need technology to help these people as well. | 0:18:14 | 0:18:16 | |
Harrow is the point where you start to see the move to having AWS - | 0:18:16 | 0:18:19 | |
automated warning systems - in place on trains. | 0:18:19 | 0:18:22 | |
The railways learn by trial and error. I mean, obviously | 0:18:22 | 0:18:25 | |
the errors are hideous, but none the less, safety moves forward. | 0:18:25 | 0:18:28 | |
Yes, I mean, it takes time, a long time for these things to start to come in | 0:18:28 | 0:18:32 | |
but they do eventually arrive. | 0:18:32 | 0:18:35 | |
So since then, train drivers have had the benefit of automatic warning systems to counter | 0:18:35 | 0:18:41 | |
human error and there hasn't been another UK disaster on such a scale. | 0:18:41 | 0:18:45 | |
I'm up early to catch the train north to Tring in leafy Hertfordshire. | 0:18:53 | 0:18:59 | |
Today's rail timetable says that my journey should take just | 0:19:02 | 0:19:05 | |
under half an hour. | 0:19:05 | 0:19:08 | |
Bradshaw's tells me that at Tring, my next stop, the railway | 0:19:12 | 0:19:14 | |
reaches its greatest elevation, being 300 foot above that of Camden Town. | 0:19:14 | 0:19:21 | |
But it's not just the tracks that reach new heights in this | 0:19:21 | 0:19:24 | |
part of Hertfordshire. | 0:19:24 | 0:19:26 | |
It also attracted the most elevated echelons of society. | 0:19:26 | 0:19:29 | |
TANNOY: 'We are now approaching Tring'. | 0:19:33 | 0:19:37 | |
Tring Park was the country estate of one of the world's wealthiest | 0:19:37 | 0:19:41 | |
banking families - the Rothschilds. | 0:19:41 | 0:19:44 | |
By the early 1800s, Nathan Mayer Rothschild had earned | 0:19:44 | 0:19:47 | |
a fortune from trading textiles and gold. | 0:19:47 | 0:19:51 | |
But Nathan's eldest son, Walter, was a reluctant banker, | 0:19:52 | 0:19:56 | |
announcing at the age of seven, "I am going to make a museum." | 0:19:56 | 0:20:00 | |
Tring Park became home to Walter's collection, | 0:20:02 | 0:20:05 | |
with an astonishing variety of animals. | 0:20:05 | 0:20:07 | |
When his treasures outgrew the family's house, | 0:20:11 | 0:20:13 | |
the Rothschilds came up with a grand solution. | 0:20:13 | 0:20:19 | |
I've come to Tring's Natural History Museum to meet Alice Adams, | 0:20:19 | 0:20:22 | |
one of the curators, | 0:20:22 | 0:20:24 | |
to find out what happened to his collection. | 0:20:24 | 0:20:28 | |
How did the museum begin? | 0:20:28 | 0:20:29 | |
The museum was essentially a 21st birthday present for Walter. | 0:20:29 | 0:20:34 | |
-You know, your average birthday present! -How wonderful. | 0:20:34 | 0:20:38 | |
Perfectly normal. It had kind of got to the stage, as I say, | 0:20:38 | 0:20:41 | |
he started collecting when he was five, | 0:20:41 | 0:20:42 | |
so by the time he got to the age of 20, he had literally | 0:20:42 | 0:20:45 | |
thousands of specimens and it was really out of hand. | 0:20:45 | 0:20:48 | |
He was storing things in his parents' mansion, in various sheds | 0:20:48 | 0:20:51 | |
and buildings all over Tring. | 0:20:51 | 0:20:52 | |
It was a bit of a mess and I think his parents really recognised | 0:20:52 | 0:20:55 | |
by that time that he wasn't growing out of this kind of childhood hobby. | 0:20:55 | 0:20:58 | |
-This was really what he wanted to. This was his passion. -Yeah. | 0:20:58 | 0:21:01 | |
Before he died in 1937, Walter had amassed over a million specimens | 0:21:03 | 0:21:08 | |
here and the collection is now part of the Natural History Museum. | 0:21:08 | 0:21:13 | |
Coming face-to-face with Walter's treasures, I'm left in little | 0:21:13 | 0:21:17 | |
doubt about what an unusual figure he must have been. | 0:21:17 | 0:21:20 | |
Would it be fair to call him eccentric? | 0:21:22 | 0:21:24 | |
I guess in some ways you could say he was. | 0:21:24 | 0:21:27 | |
One of the things he did was have four live zebras which he | 0:21:27 | 0:21:31 | |
managed to train with some specialist horse handlers | 0:21:31 | 0:21:34 | |
to pull a carriage, which is incredible, | 0:21:34 | 0:21:36 | |
because zebras are said to be absolutely impossible to train, | 0:21:36 | 0:21:39 | |
very temperamental, kicking, biting, so it was a real achievement. | 0:21:39 | 0:21:42 | |
And so he'd be seen driving around with his four zebras? | 0:21:42 | 0:21:45 | |
Both here and also in Piccadilly in London. | 0:21:45 | 0:21:48 | |
He was invited to take them to Buckingham Palace as well because they'd heard about it. | 0:21:48 | 0:21:52 | |
He used three zebras and a pony | 0:21:52 | 0:21:54 | |
because when he had the four zebras attached, | 0:21:54 | 0:21:57 | |
when he pulled the reins, the zebra would quite often sit down, | 0:21:57 | 0:22:00 | |
maybe as a protest, so when he ran with three zebras and a pony, | 0:22:00 | 0:22:03 | |
when he pulled the reins, the pony would run and the zebras would cooperate. | 0:22:03 | 0:22:07 | |
A very useful tip should I ever find myself with a pony | 0:22:07 | 0:22:10 | |
and three zebras! | 0:22:10 | 0:22:11 | |
Walter's zebras eventually ended up in his museum | 0:22:12 | 0:22:16 | |
and the challenge for Tring is that conserving these 100-year-old | 0:22:16 | 0:22:20 | |
specimens is a painstaking task. | 0:22:20 | 0:22:22 | |
So is this right? I'm keeping the vacuum cleaner fairly close | 0:22:25 | 0:22:29 | |
and I'm just brushing the fur. | 0:22:29 | 0:22:31 | |
Yes. This looks like a great job. | 0:22:31 | 0:22:33 | |
You can imagine how long it takes us | 0:22:33 | 0:22:35 | |
to do all 4,000 specimens in the museum. | 0:22:35 | 0:22:37 | |
You've got to do it very gently. | 0:22:37 | 0:22:39 | |
It's very important to clean a zebra without crossing it. | 0:22:39 | 0:22:44 | |
Now if you just intermittently just check the gauze to see in case | 0:22:44 | 0:22:47 | |
we've picked up any pest species. | 0:22:47 | 0:22:49 | |
-Here we go. -'Well, I thought it was funny, anyway!' | 0:22:49 | 0:22:52 | |
Walter's collection illustrates that this was an age of travel and discovery. | 0:22:54 | 0:22:59 | |
For the next hundred years, the railways flourished - anything | 0:22:59 | 0:23:02 | |
and everything was being carried by train, including money, food, | 0:23:02 | 0:23:06 | |
even gold. | 0:23:06 | 0:23:08 | |
By the 1960s, the supremacy of the railways was being challenged. | 0:23:13 | 0:23:17 | |
Lines were closed and for the first time in its history, | 0:23:17 | 0:23:20 | |
the railway was under threat. | 0:23:20 | 0:23:23 | |
My next station, Cheddington, says Bradshaw's, | 0:23:23 | 0:23:26 | |
is four and a half miles from the Money Order Office. | 0:23:26 | 0:23:29 | |
Now that particular office didn't put this area on the map but | 0:23:29 | 0:23:33 | |
its successor, the Post Office, and the money that it handles certainly did | 0:23:33 | 0:23:37 | |
in an event that stands in railway history, and indeed in my memory. | 0:23:37 | 0:23:43 | |
The 8th of August 1963 | 0:23:48 | 0:23:51 | |
saw one of the most audacious robberies in British history. | 0:23:51 | 0:23:54 | |
£2.6 million - around £40-£45 million in today's money - | 0:23:58 | 0:24:04 | |
was stolen from the Glasgow to London mail train. | 0:24:04 | 0:24:07 | |
I'm meeting author Nick Russell-Pavier, | 0:24:07 | 0:24:10 | |
who has researched the event in detail. | 0:24:10 | 0:24:13 | |
The Great Train Robbery - I remember picking up the newspaper | 0:24:13 | 0:24:16 | |
in August 1963 and reading that £2.5 million had been stolen from a train. | 0:24:16 | 0:24:22 | |
I had no idea that that sort of money was being transported by rail. | 0:24:22 | 0:24:26 | |
Why was it? | 0:24:26 | 0:24:27 | |
Trains were just a very good way of getting not only mail | 0:24:27 | 0:24:30 | |
but money up and down the country and there was a lot of money floating around in 1963. | 0:24:30 | 0:24:34 | |
Practice in banking at that stage was that regional banks would | 0:24:34 | 0:24:37 | |
transport surplus funds overnight back to their central | 0:24:37 | 0:24:41 | |
offices in London and so money was constantly shifting up | 0:24:41 | 0:24:44 | |
and down the mainline railways. | 0:24:44 | 0:24:47 | |
What was it that the robbers had to do to commit their crime? | 0:24:47 | 0:24:50 | |
There were some signals there and this is Sears crossing. | 0:24:50 | 0:24:53 | |
The robbers rigged the lights here to stop the mail train | 0:24:53 | 0:24:56 | |
coming down from Glasgow, which was carrying the money. | 0:24:56 | 0:24:59 | |
So they turned the light to red. How did they do that? | 0:24:59 | 0:25:01 | |
Actually, extraordinarily simply. | 0:25:01 | 0:25:03 | |
Actually, it was all a little bit sort of kind of like a Blue Peter | 0:25:03 | 0:25:06 | |
kind of way of doing it. | 0:25:06 | 0:25:07 | |
They had some six-volt batteries which they hot-wired the red light | 0:25:07 | 0:25:10 | |
and they covered the green light with a black leather glove and it was as simple as that. | 0:25:10 | 0:25:15 | |
And then what did they have to do? | 0:25:15 | 0:25:16 | |
They had to first of all uncouple the locomotive | 0:25:16 | 0:25:20 | |
and the carriage carrying the money | 0:25:20 | 0:25:22 | |
and move it down to a bridge about 1,000 yards further | 0:25:22 | 0:25:24 | |
south from here where it's near a road, because of course, | 0:25:24 | 0:25:27 | |
they had to unload 120 mailbags which was very heavy. | 0:25:27 | 0:25:29 | |
That bridge, that is the iconic image. | 0:25:29 | 0:25:32 | |
I remember the photograph of the little bridge | 0:25:32 | 0:25:35 | |
and the locomotive parked above it. | 0:25:35 | 0:25:38 | |
From what I recall, a breakthrough for the police came | 0:25:40 | 0:25:42 | |
when about a day after the robbery, | 0:25:42 | 0:25:44 | |
they put out statements saying that they thought the robbers were | 0:25:44 | 0:25:47 | |
still within 30 miles of the crime and indeed they were. | 0:25:47 | 0:25:50 | |
They were at a farmhouse, what? 23 miles away. | 0:25:50 | 0:25:52 | |
-And that put the robbers into a panic, didn't it? -It did. | 0:25:52 | 0:25:55 | |
And it was decisive but actually, it was the result of a misquote. | 0:25:55 | 0:25:58 | |
What the head of Buckinghamshire CID in fact said, | 0:25:58 | 0:26:00 | |
because it was based on something that the robbers said to the | 0:26:00 | 0:26:03 | |
people on the train when they left is, | 0:26:03 | 0:26:05 | |
"Don't move for 30 minutes." What they were going to search was | 0:26:05 | 0:26:08 | |
a distance of 30 minutes' travelling time from the bridge. | 0:26:08 | 0:26:11 | |
But there was a misquote by the press and in fact the robbers were 28 miles outside. | 0:26:11 | 0:26:15 | |
So it was just a complete stroke of luck. | 0:26:15 | 0:26:17 | |
From then on, the whole thing began to unravel quite significantly. | 0:26:19 | 0:26:24 | |
The police mounted a huge hunt for the robbers and their hideout. | 0:26:24 | 0:26:28 | |
Fingerprints and evidence at a nearby farmhouse eventually led | 0:26:28 | 0:26:32 | |
to ten of the 16 being imprisoned. | 0:26:32 | 0:26:36 | |
Most of the money was never recovered. | 0:26:36 | 0:26:38 | |
Two of the perpetrators later escaped from high-security prisons | 0:26:38 | 0:26:41 | |
and the most notorious, Ronnie Biggs, | 0:26:41 | 0:26:44 | |
went on the run for over 35 years. | 0:26:44 | 0:26:47 | |
Why do you think this crime lives so much in our memories? | 0:26:47 | 0:26:51 | |
I think partly the idea of robbing a train has that sort of | 0:26:51 | 0:26:53 | |
Jesse James kind of, er... | 0:26:53 | 0:26:57 | |
Westerns were very popular in 1963 so it had that romantic image to it. | 0:26:57 | 0:27:01 | |
But undoubtedly the mythology was to some extent sparked by the GPO | 0:27:01 | 0:27:05 | |
and British Railways who were highly embarrassed about losing | 0:27:05 | 0:27:09 | |
so much money so it rather suited them to, | 0:27:09 | 0:27:11 | |
if you like, big up the robbery | 0:27:11 | 0:27:14 | |
and the press of course picked up on that and the British public absolutely loved it. | 0:27:14 | 0:27:18 | |
Trains first ran along these tracks in the first | 0:27:25 | 0:27:28 | |
weeks of Queen Victoria's reign. | 0:27:28 | 0:27:30 | |
If the railways were then newborn, they've lost their innocence since. | 0:27:30 | 0:27:35 | |
This line has seen its share of horrors, a dreadful accident | 0:27:35 | 0:27:39 | |
and a notorious robbery. | 0:27:39 | 0:27:42 | |
But the railways are the great survivor from Victorian times. | 0:27:42 | 0:27:45 | |
Steel wheels still run along steel tracks along lines | 0:27:45 | 0:27:49 | |
and through stations designed by 19th century engineers. | 0:27:49 | 0:27:53 | |
A remarkable tribute to Robert Stephenson | 0:27:53 | 0:27:56 | |
and his brilliant generation. | 0:27:56 | 0:27:58 | |
On the next leg of my next journey, | 0:28:00 | 0:28:02 | |
I meet one of the Second World War's most secret agents. | 0:28:02 | 0:28:06 | |
It was all a bit crafty, really. | 0:28:06 | 0:28:08 | |
So you took a message which had a meaning | 0:28:08 | 0:28:10 | |
and you put it in to other words | 0:28:10 | 0:28:11 | |
-but of course the meaning had to be exactly the same. -That's right. | 0:28:11 | 0:28:14 | |
I test my knowledge of 18th-century hymns... | 0:28:14 | 0:28:17 | |
Do you recognise that one? | 0:28:17 | 0:28:19 | |
You're teasing me! What is it? | 0:28:19 | 0:28:21 | |
..and learn the ancient craft of vellum making. | 0:28:21 | 0:28:24 | |
Do you do this all day? | 0:28:24 | 0:28:26 | |
This is my afternoon work. | 0:28:26 | 0:28:28 |