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'In 1840, one man transformed travel in Britain. | 0:00:05 | 0:00:10 | |
'His name was George Bradshaw | 0:00:10 | 0:00:12 | |
'and his railway guides inspired the Victorians to take to the tracks. | 0:00:12 | 0:00:16 | |
'Stop by stop, he told them where to go, | 0:00:17 | 0:00:20 | |
'what to see and where to stay. | 0:00:20 | 0:00:23 | |
'And now, 170 years later, | 0:00:23 | 0:00:25 | |
'I'm aboard for a series of rail adventures | 0:00:25 | 0:00:29 | |
'across the United Kingdom | 0:00:29 | 0:00:31 | |
'to see what of Bradshaw's Britain remains.' | 0:00:31 | 0:00:34 | |
During the course of my journeys, I've often been struck | 0:00:51 | 0:00:55 | |
by how the Victorians pushed out the boundaries of human knowledge. | 0:00:55 | 0:00:58 | |
Today, I want to see how subsequent generations inherited | 0:00:58 | 0:01:02 | |
their spirit with new things being discovered and indeed unearthed. | 0:01:02 | 0:01:07 | |
All this week, I've been travelling away from the capital | 0:01:15 | 0:01:17 | |
and its toiling masses, | 0:01:17 | 0:01:19 | |
heading north on Stephenson's London to Birmingham line. | 0:01:19 | 0:01:23 | |
I've yet to explore | 0:01:23 | 0:01:24 | |
the Victorian manufacturing hub of the East Midlands | 0:01:24 | 0:01:26 | |
before ending my journey in the Yorkshire city of Leeds. | 0:01:26 | 0:01:30 | |
On today's journey, I travel on the first Victorian main line, | 0:01:32 | 0:01:36 | |
through Leicestershire to Rothley, | 0:01:36 | 0:01:38 | |
to meet up with the last main line to be built, | 0:01:38 | 0:01:41 | |
and then it's a short hop to Loughborough. | 0:01:41 | 0:01:43 | |
'On this leg of my journey, I swap hats | 0:01:44 | 0:01:47 | |
'and view life from the other side of the tracks.' | 0:01:47 | 0:01:50 | |
Rothley! This is Rothley! | 0:01:50 | 0:01:53 | |
All aboard! | 0:01:53 | 0:01:55 | |
'I discover an astronomical invention | 0:01:55 | 0:01:57 | |
'that gave Hollywood a face-lift.' | 0:01:57 | 0:01:59 | |
-Am I on the dot? -Yes, you are indeed. | 0:01:59 | 0:02:01 | |
Wahey! I never expected to get that right. | 0:02:01 | 0:02:04 | |
'And my mettle is tested at the world's largest bell foundry.' | 0:02:04 | 0:02:08 | |
To say I'm out of my comfort zone is to put it mildly. | 0:02:08 | 0:02:10 | |
There is molten metal leaping around in the room. | 0:02:10 | 0:02:14 | |
As we approach Leicester, my Bradshaw's reminds me | 0:02:19 | 0:02:22 | |
that, "the famous crook-backed King Richard III, | 0:02:22 | 0:02:26 | |
"was brought here after the battle of Bosworth Field, | 0:02:26 | 0:02:29 | |
"and buried in the Grey Priory." | 0:02:29 | 0:02:31 | |
Nowadays we can find out whether Bradshaw's was right. | 0:02:31 | 0:02:34 | |
My guidebook, also quotes Shakespeare, | 0:02:34 | 0:02:37 | |
whose view of Richard was that he was a vile swine. | 0:02:37 | 0:02:41 | |
Both the Victorians and, indeed, I have been greatly | 0:02:41 | 0:02:43 | |
influenced in our view of Richard by the Bard. | 0:02:43 | 0:02:46 | |
'The Bard and Bradshaw would be amazed that, centuries later, | 0:02:47 | 0:02:51 | |
'the body of Richard would be discovered in a car park.' | 0:02:51 | 0:02:54 | |
TANNOY: 'Leicester Station. | 0:02:55 | 0:02:56 | |
'Leicester Station is going to be our final destination.' | 0:02:56 | 0:03:00 | |
'Richard of York, later Richard III, | 0:03:00 | 0:03:03 | |
'was named protector of two princes - his nephews. | 0:03:03 | 0:03:07 | |
'To secure his succession to the throne, | 0:03:07 | 0:03:09 | |
'it's rumoured that he had them murdered in the Tower of London. | 0:03:09 | 0:03:13 | |
'I'm interested to know whether Shakespeare's view of Richard | 0:03:13 | 0:03:16 | |
'is supported by historical fact. | 0:03:16 | 0:03:18 | |
'I'm meeting Professor Gail Marshall from Leicester University | 0:03:18 | 0:03:21 | |
'in the historic New Walk area of the city.' | 0:03:21 | 0:03:24 | |
Bradshaw's quotes Shakespeare's view of Richard III as a vile swine. | 0:03:25 | 0:03:30 | |
A pretty negative view. Was that the settled view of the time? | 0:03:30 | 0:03:33 | |
Well, it was the view that he attributes to the Earl of Richmond, | 0:03:33 | 0:03:36 | |
who would later become Henry VII, so it's very much the Tudor view. | 0:03:36 | 0:03:39 | |
But what Shakespeare does, | 0:03:39 | 0:03:41 | |
which is quite interesting, is add to that considerably. | 0:03:41 | 0:03:43 | |
He makes Richard a much more interesting villain. | 0:03:43 | 0:03:45 | |
He gives him the most tremendous linguistic resources. | 0:03:45 | 0:03:48 | |
He gives him a limp as well, but the linguistic resources, I think, are | 0:03:48 | 0:03:51 | |
the things that have captured the Elizabethans' imagination | 0:03:51 | 0:03:54 | |
and still capture our imagination | 0:03:54 | 0:03:56 | |
and obviously captured Bradshaw's imagination too. | 0:03:56 | 0:03:58 | |
Do we know yet whether Richard III was a villain? | 0:03:58 | 0:04:02 | |
I don't think we can possibly know that | 0:04:03 | 0:04:05 | |
cos the sources are so contradictory. | 0:04:05 | 0:04:07 | |
What we do know is that Shakespeare's version of Richard | 0:04:07 | 0:04:10 | |
as a great villain, though an interesting villain, | 0:04:10 | 0:04:13 | |
is one that's persisted. | 0:04:13 | 0:04:14 | |
But I think what we can also think about now, uniquely, | 0:04:14 | 0:04:18 | |
is the new source that we've got, | 0:04:18 | 0:04:19 | |
which is the very source of Richard's own body, | 0:04:19 | 0:04:22 | |
which has just been discovered. | 0:04:22 | 0:04:23 | |
And I think that that visual image we have of the skeleton | 0:04:23 | 0:04:28 | |
is possibly something that might begin to dispel our sense of Richard | 0:04:28 | 0:04:31 | |
as a rather... You know, as a simply villainous character. | 0:04:31 | 0:04:35 | |
'It's truly remarkable that, 528 years later, | 0:04:39 | 0:04:43 | |
'we have this new evidence. | 0:04:43 | 0:04:45 | |
'There were indications that Richard's body had been buried | 0:04:45 | 0:04:48 | |
'in Leicester, in Grey Friar's Friary. | 0:04:48 | 0:04:51 | |
'Today there's nothing left of the Friary, so looking | 0:04:51 | 0:04:54 | |
'for his body was like looking for a needle in a haystack. | 0:04:54 | 0:04:58 | |
'But under this white marquee in a council car park | 0:04:58 | 0:05:01 | |
'turned out to be the spot. | 0:05:01 | 0:05:04 | |
'Very kindly, the Leicester University archaeologists | 0:05:04 | 0:05:07 | |
'Richard Buckley and Matthew Morris | 0:05:07 | 0:05:09 | |
'have agreed to meet me at the site of their great discovery.' | 0:05:09 | 0:05:13 | |
So who actually found him? | 0:05:14 | 0:05:15 | |
That'll be me. | 0:05:15 | 0:05:17 | |
Were you looking for him? | 0:05:17 | 0:05:19 | |
Well, yes and no. | 0:05:19 | 0:05:20 | |
I mean, the project was looking with the hope of finding him | 0:05:20 | 0:05:23 | |
but it was always going to be a long shot. | 0:05:23 | 0:05:24 | |
When we put the first trench in, there was no way we knew we were | 0:05:24 | 0:05:27 | |
going to find him within the first couple of hours of the excavation. | 0:05:27 | 0:05:30 | |
It wasn't until we'd literally found the vertebrae that we actually | 0:05:30 | 0:05:34 | |
suddenly saw with dawning realisation | 0:05:34 | 0:05:36 | |
that actually this could be who we're looking for all along. | 0:05:36 | 0:05:39 | |
Because it had this kind of S curvature? | 0:05:39 | 0:05:40 | |
Yeah, and it was really obvious S curvature in the ground. | 0:05:40 | 0:05:44 | |
You couldn't mistake it for anything other than scoliosis. | 0:05:44 | 0:05:48 | |
And had it been assumed that Shakespeare was right that | 0:05:48 | 0:05:50 | |
Richard had had this disability? | 0:05:50 | 0:05:53 | |
Well, we came with very open minds. | 0:05:53 | 0:05:54 | |
I think we thought we might excavate up to six sets of remains | 0:05:54 | 0:05:57 | |
of individuals, who were males, of course, | 0:05:57 | 0:06:00 | |
and we might be lucky to find | 0:06:00 | 0:06:02 | |
some evidence that one of them had died in battle. | 0:06:02 | 0:06:04 | |
We didn't think for a minute that we'd find an individual who had such | 0:06:04 | 0:06:07 | |
obvious characteristics like the scoliosis. | 0:06:07 | 0:06:10 | |
'The other obvious indicators were the injuries that Richard | 0:06:10 | 0:06:13 | |
'sustained at the battle of Bosworth Field in 1485. | 0:06:13 | 0:06:17 | |
'Fighting his Lancastrian rival, Henry Tudor, | 0:06:17 | 0:06:20 | |
'some of his army defected, leaving Richard vulnerable. | 0:06:20 | 0:06:23 | |
'He suffered numerous blows to the head. | 0:06:23 | 0:06:26 | |
'His naked body was then paraded through Leicester.' | 0:06:26 | 0:06:29 | |
How lucky was it that you discovered that bone? | 0:06:29 | 0:06:34 | |
Incredibly lucky. I mean, | 0:06:34 | 0:06:35 | |
we always planned on putting a trench broadly here, | 0:06:35 | 0:06:39 | |
but the minutiae of the placement, you know, 50cm here, 50cm there... | 0:06:39 | 0:06:43 | |
And you can see, that was the edge of our original trench there. | 0:06:43 | 0:06:47 | |
If I'd moved it slightly further that way, we'd have missed him | 0:06:47 | 0:06:49 | |
entirely and not known he was there. All of this is a modern cellar | 0:06:49 | 0:06:53 | |
and it came to within that far above his legs. | 0:06:53 | 0:06:55 | |
If they'd dug it any deeper than they actually had, | 0:06:55 | 0:06:58 | |
we wouldn't have had him from the waist down at the very least. | 0:06:58 | 0:07:01 | |
If they'd made it slightly wider, we might not have had him at all. | 0:07:01 | 0:07:04 | |
Extraordinary. | 0:07:04 | 0:07:05 | |
'Remarkably, it was world-renowned work on DNA done over many years | 0:07:09 | 0:07:12 | |
'that enabled scientists to provide comprehensive proof | 0:07:12 | 0:07:17 | |
'that this was the lost King of England | 0:07:17 | 0:07:19 | |
'and that he'd died a bloody death aged 32. | 0:07:19 | 0:07:22 | |
'I'm meeting Professor Schurer | 0:07:23 | 0:07:25 | |
'at Leicester University's genetics department | 0:07:25 | 0:07:27 | |
'where Richard's body was sent for DNA profiling.' | 0:07:27 | 0:07:30 | |
Now, I believe that DNA was discovered | 0:07:34 | 0:07:36 | |
about half a century ago, wasn't it? | 0:07:36 | 0:07:39 | |
But a great breakthrough | 0:07:39 | 0:07:40 | |
was made at the University of Leicester wasn't it? | 0:07:40 | 0:07:43 | |
Absolutely. In fact, at five past nine on September the tenth, 1984, | 0:07:43 | 0:07:48 | |
now Sir Alec Jeffries had an absolute breakthrough when he realised | 0:07:48 | 0:07:53 | |
that DNA could be fingerprinted in such a way | 0:07:53 | 0:07:57 | |
that meant that everybody had an individual marker. | 0:07:57 | 0:08:00 | |
'I can see why they'd bring the bones here for DNA testing, but what | 0:08:00 | 0:08:04 | |
'I don't understand is how they'd identify the DNA as Richard's.' | 0:08:04 | 0:08:09 | |
It's important to realise that there are two fundamental parts | 0:08:09 | 0:08:12 | |
of our DNA. They are inherited from our father, | 0:08:12 | 0:08:15 | |
which is the Y chromosome - | 0:08:15 | 0:08:17 | |
that passes from father to son, father to son, father to son. | 0:08:17 | 0:08:20 | |
And, from our mother, we inherit DNA, | 0:08:20 | 0:08:23 | |
both sons and daughters inherit mitochondrial DNA. | 0:08:23 | 0:08:27 | |
But only women can pass it on. | 0:08:27 | 0:08:29 | |
So what we were able to do was to trace living modern day | 0:08:29 | 0:08:33 | |
descendants through Anne of York, his elder sister. | 0:08:33 | 0:08:37 | |
So was this another fantastic chance that there was | 0:08:37 | 0:08:41 | |
a daughter, followed by a daughter, followed by a daughter? | 0:08:41 | 0:08:44 | |
It's so much of a chance, had we discovered the skeleton maybe in | 0:08:44 | 0:08:47 | |
30 or 40 years' time, that line would have died out. | 0:08:47 | 0:08:51 | |
All of the living day descendants of Anne of York | 0:08:51 | 0:08:55 | |
are the last of their line. They will not be passing on | 0:08:55 | 0:08:58 | |
mitochondrial DNA to a next generation. | 0:08:58 | 0:09:01 | |
This is the stuff of fiction, isn't it? Absolutely extraordinary. | 0:09:01 | 0:09:04 | |
'Anne died giving birth to her only daughter from her second | 0:09:04 | 0:09:07 | |
'marriage, Anne St Leger. | 0:09:07 | 0:09:09 | |
'But in each successive generation after, there was | 0:09:09 | 0:09:12 | |
'a daughter followed by a daughter. | 0:09:12 | 0:09:15 | |
'In fact, Professor Schurer already knew about Canadian furniture maker | 0:09:15 | 0:09:19 | |
'Michael Ibsen, descended through 17 generations. | 0:09:19 | 0:09:23 | |
'But he was also able to trace another living descendant of Anne, | 0:09:23 | 0:09:27 | |
'who remains anonymous. | 0:09:27 | 0:09:29 | |
'Testing both their DNAs gave Schurer proof positive.' | 0:09:29 | 0:09:33 | |
When we first of all realised that, A, those two people matched, | 0:09:33 | 0:09:36 | |
who'd never met in their lives, had no idea of their existence. | 0:09:36 | 0:09:40 | |
And then, of course, the whole thing triangulated | 0:09:40 | 0:09:43 | |
with the mitochondrial DNA extracted from the skeleton. | 0:09:43 | 0:09:47 | |
And that was another Eureka moment. | 0:09:47 | 0:09:48 | |
So, you had two people whose DNA matched, | 0:09:48 | 0:09:53 | |
and then you bring the sample from bone and it matches too. | 0:09:53 | 0:09:56 | |
Indeed. | 0:09:56 | 0:09:58 | |
Closely? | 0:09:58 | 0:09:59 | |
Very, very closely. Yes. | 0:09:59 | 0:10:02 | |
No doubt about it, the fellow in the car park is Richard III. | 0:10:02 | 0:10:06 | |
The fellow in the car park is Richard III. | 0:10:06 | 0:10:08 | |
'I find the fortuitous discovery of Richard and the happy coincidences | 0:10:13 | 0:10:17 | |
'that allowed the university | 0:10:17 | 0:10:19 | |
'to offer proof of his identity really exciting. | 0:10:19 | 0:10:22 | |
'A modern Bradshaw would surely recommend a visit to Leicester | 0:10:22 | 0:10:25 | |
'to understand how science can make history live | 0:10:25 | 0:10:28 | |
'and solve the puzzles that have perplexed us for centuries. | 0:10:28 | 0:10:32 | |
'Much as I'd like to discover more, I must travel on, | 0:10:32 | 0:10:35 | |
'just seven minutes down the line.' | 0:10:35 | 0:10:37 | |
My next stop will be Syston, | 0:10:43 | 0:10:45 | |
known to Bradshaw's as Syston Junction, where I intend to | 0:10:45 | 0:10:48 | |
focus on a Victorian invention which has since stolen the limelight. | 0:10:48 | 0:10:53 | |
'Syston was noteworthy enough to get a mention in the Domesday book | 0:10:56 | 0:11:00 | |
'and the town is now known for the part it played in photography. | 0:11:00 | 0:11:04 | |
'In the 1800s, the Victorians rapidly developed photography | 0:11:07 | 0:11:11 | |
'and Cooke Optics became renowned for creating the triplet lens | 0:11:11 | 0:11:15 | |
'that eliminated fuzzy photos. | 0:11:15 | 0:11:17 | |
'From its historic Stoughton Street factory, | 0:11:17 | 0:11:20 | |
'its lenses were exported all around the world. | 0:11:20 | 0:11:23 | |
'Today, it is still one of the top lens suppliers to Hollywood | 0:11:25 | 0:11:28 | |
'and I'm meeting its Chief Operating Officer Alan Merrells.' | 0:11:28 | 0:11:31 | |
How did you first get involved with Hollywood, then? | 0:11:34 | 0:11:37 | |
The defining point, really, was when films became talkies | 0:11:37 | 0:11:42 | |
and were no longer silent. | 0:11:42 | 0:11:43 | |
The silent movies were lit by arc lights, which were extremely noisy. | 0:11:43 | 0:11:48 | |
And so you had to invent the silent light. | 0:11:48 | 0:11:51 | |
Well, we didn't invent the silent light, but we actually had a lens | 0:11:51 | 0:11:54 | |
that allowed a lot more light through and it enabled | 0:11:54 | 0:11:57 | |
cinematographers to use a lower level of light to shoot the movies. | 0:11:57 | 0:12:01 | |
-And what's going on here? -Basically, this is traditional polishing. | 0:12:01 | 0:12:05 | |
It's been done like this for hundreds of years, really. | 0:12:05 | 0:12:08 | |
It's quite an old machine, but we're using traditional techniques. | 0:12:08 | 0:12:12 | |
Using... We've got multiple lenses in a block here, | 0:12:12 | 0:12:17 | |
being actually polished with a pitch polisher. | 0:12:17 | 0:12:19 | |
This goes back hundreds of years, basically, how we polish this. | 0:12:19 | 0:12:22 | |
It's basically jeweller's rouge. | 0:12:22 | 0:12:24 | |
And I suppose we're talking minute degrees of accuracy. | 0:12:24 | 0:12:27 | |
That's correct, yeah. Approximately a millionth of an inch. | 0:12:27 | 0:12:30 | |
Fantastic. Thank you very much indeed. | 0:12:30 | 0:12:33 | |
'What makes the Triplet special is it's made up of three | 0:12:34 | 0:12:37 | |
'precision lenses and, as you focus the camera, | 0:12:37 | 0:12:40 | |
'the three work together to bring the picture into focus. | 0:12:40 | 0:12:43 | |
'It became the lens of choice for professional photographers | 0:12:44 | 0:12:48 | |
'like Frank Hurley, who in 1914 followed Ernest Shackleton | 0:12:48 | 0:12:52 | |
'on his expedition to the South Pole. | 0:12:52 | 0:12:56 | |
'Today, the skills of these Leicestershire craftsmen are still | 0:12:56 | 0:12:59 | |
'highly prized, creating the Cooke Look | 0:12:59 | 0:13:02 | |
'with their finest prime lenses.' | 0:13:02 | 0:13:05 | |
So what exactly are you up to here? | 0:13:05 | 0:13:08 | |
What I'm doing at the moment is calibrating a focus lens. | 0:13:08 | 0:13:13 | |
Each focus lens has been calibrated | 0:13:13 | 0:13:15 | |
so what you do is ten foot reads ten foot. | 0:13:15 | 0:13:19 | |
-Are you doing that by eye? -We are indeed. | 0:13:19 | 0:13:21 | |
-How long have you been doing this? -I've been doing it for 15 years. | 0:13:21 | 0:13:25 | |
-Can I do it for 15 seconds? -Of course you can. | 0:13:25 | 0:13:28 | |
I'll move it. | 0:13:30 | 0:13:32 | |
So what do I have to do? | 0:13:32 | 0:13:33 | |
Just focus a seaman's star. If I... Can you see an image there? | 0:13:33 | 0:13:37 | |
I can see, yeah, a kind of fan shape. | 0:13:37 | 0:13:41 | |
-OK. If I move it, it'll disappear. -Yeah, yeah. -Right? | 0:13:41 | 0:13:44 | |
Now you try and focus it. | 0:13:44 | 0:13:46 | |
I can see a star. And I've got to bring that into focus. | 0:13:46 | 0:13:49 | |
-That's what you're looking for - a sharp image. -OK. | 0:13:49 | 0:13:51 | |
So, I'll over-correct so I go beyond it. | 0:13:51 | 0:13:55 | |
That's gone beyond it. | 0:13:55 | 0:13:56 | |
Until you get a sharp image. | 0:13:58 | 0:14:00 | |
How's that? | 0:14:00 | 0:14:02 | |
You look yourself. | 0:14:02 | 0:14:04 | |
Crack onto it. | 0:14:05 | 0:14:07 | |
Am I on the dot? | 0:14:07 | 0:14:09 | |
-Yes, you are indeed. -Wahey! | 0:14:09 | 0:14:11 | |
I never expected to get that right. Wow. | 0:14:11 | 0:14:15 | |
'I'm beginning to feel a whole new career coming on. | 0:14:15 | 0:14:18 | |
'This time, on the other side of the camera. | 0:14:18 | 0:14:21 | |
'I can also see why the lenses have such an impressive filmography - | 0:14:21 | 0:14:24 | |
'everything from James Bond to Harry Potter. | 0:14:24 | 0:14:29 | |
'And in recognition of their 120 years of service to Hollywood, | 0:14:29 | 0:14:33 | |
'they have just been awarded an Oscar' | 0:14:33 | 0:14:35 | |
'For the team here in Leicester, many of whom are second | 0:14:35 | 0:14:38 | |
'and third generation Cooke employees, it's a huge honour.' | 0:14:38 | 0:14:43 | |
As the day draws to the end, I'm going to alight at Sileby station. | 0:14:50 | 0:14:54 | |
Bradshaw's tells me in the vicinity is Mount Sorrel - a lovely spot. | 0:14:54 | 0:15:00 | |
And draws attention to Rothley Temple, belonging to J Parker Esq. | 0:15:00 | 0:15:04 | |
A good place to spend the night. | 0:15:04 | 0:15:06 | |
I'll be interested to know how Rothley found its way, | 0:15:06 | 0:15:09 | |
not only in to Bradshaw's, but also into the history books. | 0:15:09 | 0:15:12 | |
'From 1231, Rothley was home to the Knights Templar, | 0:15:20 | 0:15:23 | |
'who were rectors of the magnificent Catholic church. | 0:15:23 | 0:15:27 | |
'After their demise, the Babington family | 0:15:27 | 0:15:29 | |
'began their eight generations of residence, until 1845. | 0:15:29 | 0:15:34 | |
'Then the Manor was sold off to J Parker, an eminent local QC. | 0:15:34 | 0:15:39 | |
'Today, Rothley Manor is a hotel | 0:15:39 | 0:15:41 | |
'and the perfect place to break my journey.' | 0:15:41 | 0:15:44 | |
I've found my spot in Leicestershire to take my rest. | 0:15:47 | 0:15:50 | |
Richard III lay undisturbed for 528 years. | 0:15:50 | 0:15:54 | |
I hope to wake in the morning. | 0:15:54 | 0:15:56 | |
'I'm up early because I have a special date | 0:16:03 | 0:16:06 | |
'at a very special station. | 0:16:06 | 0:16:08 | |
'You won't find Rothley on the map, or in Bradshaw's. | 0:16:08 | 0:16:12 | |
'This line, which was originally part of the Great Central Railway, | 0:16:12 | 0:16:15 | |
'was built by railway entrepreneur Sir Edward Watkin to provide a more | 0:16:15 | 0:16:19 | |
'direct line from London-Marylebone to Sheffield and Manchester' | 0:16:19 | 0:16:23 | |
'He also had ambitions that his line would connect to France. | 0:16:23 | 0:16:27 | |
'While it didn't survive long enough to make it across the Channel, | 0:16:27 | 0:16:30 | |
'it owes its life today to a group of enthusiasts who saved it.' | 0:16:30 | 0:16:34 | |
Hello, Richard. | 0:16:35 | 0:16:37 | |
-Good morning, Michael. -Good to see you. -And yourself. Sit down. | 0:16:37 | 0:16:40 | |
Now, this railway station, Rothley, is not in my Bradshaw's guide. | 0:16:40 | 0:16:46 | |
Presumably, then, because this line was built later than the 1860s? | 0:16:46 | 0:16:50 | |
A lot later. It only opened in about 1900 | 0:16:50 | 0:16:54 | |
and it survived for barely 60 years before British Railways closed it. | 0:16:54 | 0:16:59 | |
How does it come to be reopened again? | 0:16:59 | 0:17:01 | |
Round about 1969, a preservation scheme was developed | 0:17:01 | 0:17:05 | |
by a small group of enthusiasts and, 44 years later, | 0:17:05 | 0:17:09 | |
here we are today with eight miles of double track railway. | 0:17:09 | 0:17:13 | |
Trains can pass each other | 0:17:13 | 0:17:14 | |
rather than having to wait in passing loops in stations. | 0:17:14 | 0:17:18 | |
And you're capable of pretty high speeds as well. | 0:17:18 | 0:17:21 | |
Yes, at times we do testing of steam locos up to 60mph. | 0:17:21 | 0:17:25 | |
That must be very good fun. You must love doing that. | 0:17:25 | 0:17:28 | |
Absolutely. | 0:17:28 | 0:17:29 | |
'Today, thanks to the passion and enthusiasm of Richard | 0:17:30 | 0:17:34 | |
'and the Great Central Railway Heritage Trust, | 0:17:34 | 0:17:36 | |
'there are six working steam locomotives and 17 carriages. | 0:17:36 | 0:17:41 | |
'I've offered to work my passage to Loughborough | 0:17:41 | 0:17:43 | |
'behind the King Edward II.' | 0:17:43 | 0:17:45 | |
Rothley! This is Rothley! | 0:17:45 | 0:17:49 | |
All aboard for Quorn and Woodhouse and Loughborough Central! | 0:17:49 | 0:17:54 | |
'I knew those years of shouting in Parliament would come in handy.' | 0:17:54 | 0:17:57 | |
WHISTLE BLOWS | 0:17:57 | 0:17:59 | |
WHISTLE BLOWS | 0:18:02 | 0:18:03 | |
'This majestic King Class locomotive was built in Swindon in 1930 for | 0:18:06 | 0:18:10 | |
'the Great Western Railway | 0:18:10 | 0:18:12 | |
'and was only withdrawn from service only in 1962.' | 0:18:12 | 0:18:16 | |
Tickets, please. Tickets, please. | 0:18:16 | 0:18:20 | |
-Good morning to you, sir. -I hope you are enjoying your ride. | 0:18:20 | 0:18:23 | |
-We are indeed. -We have. We've had a lovely breakfast | 0:18:23 | 0:18:26 | |
and now we get to relax for the rest of the day. | 0:18:26 | 0:18:29 | |
-Just check you're... -It is today's. -Check you're legitimate. | 0:18:29 | 0:18:33 | |
-And I am a member. -I think we'll put a hole in there anyway. | 0:18:33 | 0:18:36 | |
Yes, you can do that. I'll keep that one. | 0:18:36 | 0:18:39 | |
There we go. I don't think I can put a hole in that one. | 0:18:39 | 0:18:42 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:18:42 | 0:18:43 | |
'In steam's heyday, a key part of the service | 0:18:43 | 0:18:45 | |
'was providing passengers with hot cooked food. | 0:18:45 | 0:18:49 | |
'Keeping up with tradition, today's menus sound very tempting. | 0:18:49 | 0:18:53 | |
'Sweet capsicum terrine with basil vinaigrette | 0:18:53 | 0:18:56 | |
'followed by pan-fried sea trout, and gateau. | 0:18:56 | 0:18:59 | |
'I have a reservation with resident chef Liam Tinsley.' | 0:18:59 | 0:19:03 | |
-This is a vintage kitchen, isn't it? -Yes. | 0:19:03 | 0:19:05 | |
What's the most you can produce out of this kitchen? | 0:19:05 | 0:19:08 | |
A seven-course meal on Saturday nights. | 0:19:08 | 0:19:10 | |
-A seven-course meal? -Yeah. -For how many people? -80. | 0:19:10 | 0:19:14 | |
80 people. That's absolutely fantastic. | 0:19:14 | 0:19:16 | |
So how long have you been on the trains? You're a young man. | 0:19:16 | 0:19:18 | |
I've been coming down since I was eight. | 0:19:18 | 0:19:20 | |
I've been cooking since I was 16. | 0:19:20 | 0:19:22 | |
And I've gone through an apprenticeship | 0:19:22 | 0:19:23 | |
and I'm now an NVQ Level II qualified chef. | 0:19:23 | 0:19:26 | |
-And you're enjoying it, evidently. -Oh, yeah. -Fantastic. | 0:19:26 | 0:19:29 | |
-I wish I had time to stay. -That's OK. It's nice meeting you. | 0:19:29 | 0:19:33 | |
I wish I could have a seven-course meal! | 0:19:33 | 0:19:35 | |
-Bye-bye, Liam. -Bye. Thank you. -Thank you. | 0:19:35 | 0:19:37 | |
'Thanks to people power, this line has been saved | 0:19:40 | 0:19:43 | |
'and transformed into something special. | 0:19:43 | 0:19:45 | |
'In the future, the trust hopes to turn the southern terminus | 0:19:45 | 0:19:49 | |
'into a branch of the National Railway Museum. | 0:19:49 | 0:19:52 | |
'And the northern terminus is my next destination - Loughborough.' | 0:19:52 | 0:19:55 | |
TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS | 0:19:59 | 0:20:01 | |
There was another sound as evocative of the 19th century | 0:20:03 | 0:20:07 | |
as the locomotive whistle. | 0:20:07 | 0:20:09 | |
From factories and churches, village halls and schools, | 0:20:09 | 0:20:13 | |
you could hear the sound of the bell. | 0:20:13 | 0:20:15 | |
And here at Loughborough is the place where the story can be told. | 0:20:15 | 0:20:19 | |
'It was a Loughborough parish church | 0:20:26 | 0:20:28 | |
'which invited the world's largest bell foundry | 0:20:28 | 0:20:30 | |
'to set up business in the town. | 0:20:30 | 0:20:32 | |
'In 1839, they commissioned John Taylor and Company to cast | 0:20:32 | 0:20:37 | |
'their bells, with one condition - that they make them in Loughborough. | 0:20:37 | 0:20:41 | |
'The company moved and has been here since, sending bells | 0:20:41 | 0:20:45 | |
'all over the country, thanks to the closeness of the railway line.' | 0:20:45 | 0:20:49 | |
'I'm meeting one of the directors, Andrew Higson.' | 0:20:49 | 0:20:52 | |
What an amazing sight. | 0:20:57 | 0:21:00 | |
I feel as if I've walked into a painting, into another century. | 0:21:00 | 0:21:03 | |
An industrial cathedral. | 0:21:03 | 0:21:05 | |
That's very well put. But what goes on here? | 0:21:05 | 0:21:08 | |
These things with holes in them cannot be bells. | 0:21:08 | 0:21:11 | |
No, they're not bells. These are the cases in which we mould the bells. | 0:21:11 | 0:21:14 | |
They've got holes in them so that the loam, which is the moulding material, binds to it. | 0:21:14 | 0:21:19 | |
And each size of bell that we make, we've got a different-sized case for. | 0:21:19 | 0:21:24 | |
This is the moulding process actually in action. | 0:21:24 | 0:21:28 | |
You can see that Bill is slapping some what looks like mud on the inside of this case. | 0:21:28 | 0:21:34 | |
Hello, Bill. What is this gooey substance made of? | 0:21:34 | 0:21:36 | |
Three kinds of sand, goat hair and horse manure. | 0:21:37 | 0:21:41 | |
-What? -Horse manure. | 0:21:42 | 0:21:45 | |
-Horse manure? -Yeah. | 0:21:45 | 0:21:47 | |
Goat hair. | 0:21:47 | 0:21:50 | |
-These are the vital ingredients, are they? -They are. | 0:21:50 | 0:21:53 | |
-Stood the test of time? -There's nothing better. | 0:21:53 | 0:21:57 | |
Why would a mixture of sand and horse manure be the right lining, | 0:21:57 | 0:22:01 | |
if you are putting in hot, molten metal? | 0:22:01 | 0:22:03 | |
Clay in the sand, and the horse manure has uric acid in it, | 0:22:03 | 0:22:07 | |
and that acts as a plasticiser. | 0:22:07 | 0:22:09 | |
And the horses chew the straw into really short pieces | 0:22:09 | 0:22:14 | |
and they lattice across and it forms a really good bond. | 0:22:14 | 0:22:18 | |
When it's dry, it's as hard as anything you like. | 0:22:18 | 0:22:20 | |
It's like a semi-ceramic. | 0:22:20 | 0:22:24 | |
'Getting the loam's consistency and thickness just right | 0:22:24 | 0:22:27 | |
'takes all of Bill's 27 years' experience of making bells of every size and type. | 0:22:27 | 0:22:33 | |
'Now it's my turn to get my hands dirty.' | 0:22:34 | 0:22:37 | |
I love the smell of uric acid in the morning! | 0:22:37 | 0:22:40 | |
Apply it there, and work it towards me. | 0:22:40 | 0:22:43 | |
So slap it down hard. | 0:22:43 | 0:22:45 | |
'The bell I'm helping to make is for ringing in peal | 0:22:45 | 0:22:48 | |
'and, at over three feet wide, | 0:22:48 | 0:22:50 | |
'it's about average for this foundry. | 0:22:50 | 0:22:52 | |
'When it's rung, it sounds the note of A flat. | 0:22:52 | 0:22:55 | |
'At just under half a tonne, this mighty ringer is destined | 0:22:55 | 0:22:59 | |
'for a church in Guildford.' | 0:22:59 | 0:23:01 | |
Now we turn the strickle. | 0:23:01 | 0:23:03 | |
-Your what? -Strickle. This is what this implement's called. -Right. | 0:23:03 | 0:23:09 | |
Oh, yes. Look at that lovely shape of bell you're creating with your strickle, | 0:23:09 | 0:23:14 | |
these beautiful lines, | 0:23:14 | 0:23:16 | |
and that's all going to be reflected in the bell you are going to cast. | 0:23:16 | 0:23:19 | |
'Once made, the mould is left for a week, | 0:23:19 | 0:23:22 | |
'then fired for another week in a gas drying stove. | 0:23:22 | 0:23:25 | |
'Then it's ready for the cast. | 0:23:25 | 0:23:27 | |
'Copper and tin are used to smelt the bell in a process | 0:23:27 | 0:23:30 | |
'that hasn't changed in centuries.' | 0:23:30 | 0:23:33 | |
This is obviously the most fantastic temperature. Whoa! Look at that! | 0:23:33 | 0:23:37 | |
To say I'm out of my comfort zone is to put it mildly. | 0:23:39 | 0:23:42 | |
There is molten metal leaping around in the room. | 0:23:42 | 0:23:47 | |
What does this weigh, Roger? | 0:23:47 | 0:23:49 | |
Around 50 kilos there. | 0:23:49 | 0:23:51 | |
OK. Is there a technique to lifting it? | 0:23:51 | 0:23:53 | |
Just keep it level. OK. | 0:23:53 | 0:23:55 | |
'I'm definitely on the fast track for apprentices. | 0:23:55 | 0:23:58 | |
'Was pouring 50 kilos of molten metal in my contract?' | 0:23:58 | 0:24:02 | |
Superb. | 0:24:02 | 0:24:04 | |
Wow, look at that. | 0:24:04 | 0:24:06 | |
I never thought I'd stand this close to molten metal. OK. | 0:24:06 | 0:24:10 | |
The heat coming off it is absolutely fantastic. | 0:24:12 | 0:24:14 | |
I can feel it through my visor. I can feel it under my visor. | 0:24:14 | 0:24:18 | |
Take it easy, Roger. Thank you. Are you ready now? OK. There it is. | 0:24:18 | 0:24:23 | |
Bubbling down into the moulds. | 0:24:23 | 0:24:26 | |
-Back in the ring? -Take them down. -Down? | 0:24:26 | 0:24:31 | |
-That's fine. -Oh, my God. | 0:24:31 | 0:24:34 | |
When you take the visor off, you really do feel the heat. | 0:24:34 | 0:24:38 | |
Now coming from all these moulds as well as from the crucible, the heating pot. | 0:24:38 | 0:24:42 | |
What's actually in there, Roger? | 0:24:42 | 0:24:44 | |
It's all hand bells. | 0:24:44 | 0:24:45 | |
-Well, ding-a-ling-a-ling. -ROGER LAUGHS | 0:24:45 | 0:24:47 | |
It's uplifting to view a craft | 0:24:49 | 0:24:51 | |
that has passed down the generations. | 0:24:51 | 0:24:54 | |
But the foundry also has a sad tale to tell. | 0:24:54 | 0:24:57 | |
During the First World War, | 0:24:57 | 0:24:59 | |
three of John William Taylor's sons were killed in action. | 0:24:59 | 0:25:03 | |
In celebration of their lives | 0:25:03 | 0:25:04 | |
and those of other young men who died in the Great War, | 0:25:04 | 0:25:07 | |
Taylor and local townspeople created a memorial. | 0:25:07 | 0:25:11 | |
BELLS RING TUNEFULLY | 0:25:12 | 0:25:14 | |
This memorial bell tower in Loughborough's Queens' Park | 0:25:16 | 0:25:19 | |
houses a musical instrument called a carillon. | 0:25:19 | 0:25:23 | |
It's like an organ, with bells instead of pipes. | 0:25:23 | 0:25:26 | |
I'm going right to the top to meet Caroline Sharpe, the carillonneur. | 0:25:26 | 0:25:30 | |
BELLS RING OUT A TUNE | 0:25:32 | 0:25:34 | |
Hello. Come and join me. | 0:25:51 | 0:25:53 | |
Amazing instrument. What were you playing, by the way? | 0:25:54 | 0:25:57 | |
I was playing a piece by Sir Edward Elgar called Memorial Chimes. | 0:25:57 | 0:26:01 | |
It's a piece of music that was written | 0:26:01 | 0:26:03 | |
specifically for this carillon | 0:26:03 | 0:26:05 | |
to be played in the opening ceremony when it opened in 1923. | 0:26:05 | 0:26:09 | |
Are there many in Britain? | 0:26:09 | 0:26:10 | |
There's 15 carillons in the UK. | 0:26:10 | 0:26:13 | |
This one's particularly unique, because it is the only one | 0:26:13 | 0:26:16 | |
that was built specifically to house the bells and house the carillon | 0:26:16 | 0:26:19 | |
so you could say the whole building is the instrument. | 0:26:19 | 0:26:22 | |
Bells are rung by forcing a clapper down on to the bell | 0:26:23 | 0:26:26 | |
from levers at a keyboard, or clavier, | 0:26:26 | 0:26:28 | |
and I couldn't leave Loughborough or indeed Taylor's without trying the bells, | 0:26:28 | 0:26:33 | |
even if it's only a nursery rhyme. | 0:26:33 | 0:26:35 | |
One, two, three, four. | 0:26:36 | 0:26:39 | |
THEY PLAY "LONDON BRIDGE IS FALLING DOWN" | 0:26:41 | 0:26:45 | |
-Brilliant. -What fun! You can make such a lot of noise! | 0:26:59 | 0:27:03 | |
You can. You feel very powerful up here. | 0:27:03 | 0:27:05 | |
Very powerful. I'm going to go and listen to it from outside. | 0:27:05 | 0:27:08 | |
Thank you so much, Caroline. | 0:27:08 | 0:27:10 | |
BELLS RING TUNEFULLY | 0:27:14 | 0:27:18 | |
In Hollywood, | 0:27:20 | 0:27:22 | |
the craftsmen of a small Leicester company are winning Oscars. | 0:27:22 | 0:27:26 | |
I was moved to stand by the car park grave of King Richard III | 0:27:26 | 0:27:32 | |
and to view his life through a Victorian lens. | 0:27:32 | 0:27:35 | |
One thing's for certain - if the Great Central Railway could be | 0:27:35 | 0:27:39 | |
disinterred, all over England, it would set the bells ringing. | 0:27:39 | 0:27:44 | |
On the next leg of my journey, I sees the grand designs of a Victorian Duke. | 0:27:52 | 0:27:56 | |
Derek, this building is huge. | 0:27:56 | 0:27:58 | |
When it was built, it was the largest in Europe, | 0:27:58 | 0:28:01 | |
with the exception of the manege next to the Kremlin in Moscow. | 0:28:01 | 0:28:05 | |
I discover a treasure trove of locomotive history. | 0:28:06 | 0:28:10 | |
This I do not believe. | 0:28:10 | 0:28:12 | |
Every square inch of wall is filled with railway memorabilia. | 0:28:12 | 0:28:17 | |
And I break a leg on the stage in Leeds. | 0:28:18 | 0:28:21 | |
Welcome to this Valhalla | 0:28:21 | 0:28:24 | |
-of Victorian Variety. -Bravo. | 0:28:24 | 0:28:28 |