Bridgwater to Dartmoor Great British Railway Journeys


Bridgwater to Dartmoor

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For Victorian Britons, George Bradshaw was a household name.

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At a time when railways were new,

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Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them to take to the tracks.

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I'm using a Bradshaw's Guide to understand how trains transformed

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Britain - its landscape, its industry, society and leisure time.

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As I crisscross the country 150 years later,

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it helps me to discover the Britain of today.

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On this final leg of my journey from England's heartlands to

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moorlands, I'll be discovering how the Victorian age marked

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a change in our attitude to nature, reflected in many things,

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from ambitious engineering projects to romantic poetry.

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My route, which began in Birmingham, now arrives in south-west England,

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where I'll be visiting ancient farmlands

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and battlegrounds, before ending up on the wild

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uplands of one of Britain's most glorious national parks.

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Today, I'm starting out in romantic Bridgwater in Somerset, then on

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to historic Taunton, before arriving at my final destination, Dartmoor.

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On this leg of the journey,

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I get to grips with a miracle of Victorian engineering...

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I've never felt so much power.

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ANGRY SHOUTING

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..stand trial in Taunton and suffer the full weight of the law...

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I plead guilty and throw myself upon the mercy of this court.

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..and go looking for hidden treasure on Dartmoor.

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-I've found it!

-Hurray!

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SHE LAUGHS

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I'm now approaching the end of my journey, and the town of Bridgwater.

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Bradshaw's tells me that at Nether Stowey, Coleridge lived

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from 1796 to 1798 after marrying, and here he wrote The Ancient Mariner.

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Wordsworth was his neighbour, and composed his lyrical ballads,

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the subject of many interminable discussions,

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as the friends walked over the hills together.

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I'm headed for Somerset's Little Poets Corner.

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Lying at the edge of the Somerset Levels,

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the ancient inland port of Bridgwater is seven miles from the sea,

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and has been an important trading centre since Saxon times.

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The railway arrived here in 1841, and the station,

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designed by Brunel, is the perfect jumping-off point for my visit.

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In nearby Nether Stowey is a small cottage once

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lived in by Samuel Taylor Coleridge,

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who wrote some of his most famous work here, including Kubla Khan.

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I hope to discover more about the poet's life in the village

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from Coleridge expert Tina Mitchell.

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-Hello, Tina.

-Hello, Michael!

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Tina, what was it that brought the Samuel Taylor Coleridge family

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-to this cottage?

-They were looking to escape their debts, and they met up

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with a friend, a local man of substance, Tom Poole.

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This was the only cottage at the time that he could find for them,

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and he described it as "a bit of a hovel".

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I mean, nowadays, it looks very nice indeed, a lovely village

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and a lovely cottage. You're telling me it was something different then?

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When they moved in, you have to imagine a much smaller cottage.

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It was thatched, there was an open sewer running past the front door,

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so the stench in summer would've been something unimaginable.

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Was it a coincidence that the Wordsworths were neighbours

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-staying close by?

-No, it wasn't.

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They'd met previously while walking

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and a friendship began which was to last a very, very long time.

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So, the Wordsworths actively looked to move here to be near to

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Samuel Taylor Coleridge.

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Coleridge and the Wordsworths went on almost daily walks

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together in the nearby Quantock Hills.

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But his long-suffering wife Sarah stayed behind, to try to make

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the best of their new home.

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Tina, what were conditions like for them?

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You have to imagine that the cottage then,

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when they moved in, was very dark, it was damp, it was very draughty.

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It was overrun with mice.

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How did Coleridge's wife Sarah feel about that?

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Obviously, her priority was to her child Hartley.

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She wanted to get the cottage as cosy as possible as fast

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as possible and as warm as she could.

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Was this a period of strain for the marriage, do you think?

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Originally, no.

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They were very much in love when they moved into the cottage.

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Unfortunately, when Samuel Taylor Coleridge was in Germany

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for a long period, Berkeley, their second child,

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became very ill while he was away and died in the February.

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Samuel Taylor Coleridge didn't come back until the July,

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so obviously, this put a great strain on the marriage

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and was the beginning of the end of the marriage.

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Nowadays, it's generally accepted that Coleridge was probably

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suffering from manic depression,

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which over the years was exacerbated by his opium addiction.

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But when he moved to Nether Stowey, he was still a young idealist,

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seeking the simple life for his family, surrounded by nature.

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Tina, the garden looks very beautiful.

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Was it like this in Coleridge's day?

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When they moved in, it was twice the size of what you see today.

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His idea was to live a life of self-sufficiency.

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Unfortunately, he was slowly taken away to other areas,

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such as writing his poetry and talking long into the night,

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and the garden unfortunately suffered

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and ended up as more of a wild garden than a vegetable garden.

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So if the garden was abandoned,

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that, at least, implies that this was a period when he was writing.

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It was while he was here that he was most prolific.

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It was the birthplace of the Romantic literary movement

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and while he was here, in those short three years,

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he wrote Kubla Khan, The Rime Of The Ancient Mariner

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and he wrote This Lime-Tree Bower My Prison.

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'This Lime-Tree Bower My Prison, was inspired not so much by nature,

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'but by his sorrow at missing out on it.'

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Coleridge was about to set off on yet another walk with his cronies,

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when his wife, presumably now heartily fed up,

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spilt a pan of boiling milk over his foot.

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He retired to the said lime-tree bower in pain, to vent his angst.

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Let's have a read of that famous sulk.

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"Well, they are gone, and here must I remain,

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"This lime-tree bower my prison! I have lost

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"Beauties and feelings, such as would have been

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"Most sweet to my remembrance even when age

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"Had dimm'd mine eyes to blindness! They, meanwhile,

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"Friends, whom I never more may meet again,

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"On Springy heath, along the hill-top edge,

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"Wander in gladness..."

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-You've got to feel sorry for him, haven't you?

-Stuck here on his own.

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Bradshaw's comments that, "Somerset possesses every gradation,

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"from the lofty mountain and barren moor, to the rich

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"and cultivated vale

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"and then descends to the unimprovable marsh and fens."

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But that was to underestimate Victorian ingenuity.

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The low-lying land could be improved and made suitable for agriculture.

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And these newly raised banks of the River Parrett,

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are intended to protect these fields from flooding.

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'Man has been battling nature for control of the Somerset levels

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'since Roman times.

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'This 160,000 acres of coastal plain

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'drains naturally into two rivers, the Tone and the Parrett.

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'But the majority of the land lies below sea level,

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'so a combination of tidal surges and heavy rains,

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'such as we've seen in recent years, can have catastrophic consequences.

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'Until the Victorian age, when floods came, residents

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'and farmers could only watch and wait for the water to subside.

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'But in 1830, an act of parliament ordered

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'the construction of a steam-powered pumping station at Westonzoyland,

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'to eject water from flooded land back into the river.'

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Hello!

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Are you going towards the Victorian pumping station?

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-Yes, please jump on.

-Thank you.

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'I'm hitching a ride on one of the original log-carrying

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'locomotives that would have kept the boiler supplied with fuel.'

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-Thank you.

-Thank you.

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'In Victorian times, the station attendant,

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'who operated the pump, would live here.'

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Hello, Michael, welcome to Westonzoyland Pumping Station.

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I'm looking forward to this.

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'Nowadays, this remarkable machine is kept in working

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'order by enthusiasts, including Alan Davies and John Trenchard.'

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-This is a Victorian engine?

-It is indeed, Michael.

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It was built in 1861, developed by John George Appold.

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And he demonstrated it in 1851, at the Great Exhibition.

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Was this Victorian engine pretty effective as a pump?

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It was very effective.

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In fact, at the International Exhibition, of 1862,

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one of these was set up with a tank of water.

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It could pump 100 tonnes of water a minute.

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That is about an inch of water off an acre of land every minute,

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-which is quite phenomenal.

-Absolutely phenomenal.

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By the end of the Victorian era,

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there were eight pumping stations on the Somerset Levels.

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This is the only one still operational,

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although it's not part of the drainage system any more.

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I've never felt so much power.

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In 2014, after some of the worst January rains on record,

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25 square miles of the Somerset Levels were left underwater.

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There followed the largest mobile pumping operation ever

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undertaken in Europe.

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With 120 pumps working around the clock, capable of moving 8.5 million

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tonnes of water a day, enough to fill Wembley Stadium seven times over.

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Carymoor station was one of those on the front-line

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and I'm heading there now to meet Tim Musgrove,

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of the Environment Agency, to hear how they coped.

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-Tim.

-Hello, Michael.

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-I've just come from seeing a Victorian steam engine...

-Yes.

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..which, though working, is not moving water around any more,

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but these are.

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-Yes, these two do and do most winters.

-What is their job?

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Their job is to get the water from the moor

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and push it out into the river.

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These engines themselves look quite elderly.

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Yes, they're 1954, they went in and they're just clocking up

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with 750,000 hours without any breakdowns.

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What is the capacity? How much water can they pump?

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They're pumping just over 2,200 litres a second, each.

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You had, in Somerset, devastating floods in 2014.

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What was that like for you?

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It was a busy time, I can't deny.

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In here it was all flooded for two months.

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Were the engines damaged?

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No, no, the engines don't get any water on them,

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they are built too high out of the water.

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Could I actually see the engine running?

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Yes, we're just doing a maintenance run,

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so we can start them up, run and pump some water.

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Success!

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Can we see what it's doing?

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Did I really do that?

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-So that's, what, about two tonnes of water a second?

-Yes.

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And this is, which river now?

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This is the River Tone and it flows down

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and out to the River Parrett and then into the Bristol Channel.

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-And then safely into the sea.

-Yes.

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'I'm returning to Bridgwater Station,

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'to catch the Great Western service, heading south.'

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I shall spend the last night of this journey in Taunton.

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Bradshaw says, "The town, as seen from the station,

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"has a most pleasing appearance.

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"It's situated in the central part of the luxuriant Vale of Taunton Deane."

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And it mentions the Castle Hotel, but, for once,

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I've no need for my Bradshaw's.

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It's a place I know well.

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'My guidebook gives fulsome praise to this ancient borough town,

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'but before I explore parts unknown, I'm going to relax

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'and enjoy myself in familiar surroundings.'

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-Thank you, that looks lovely.

-Thank you.

-Thank you.

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I know this hotel well,

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cos I've often spent weekends here listening to classical music.

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But, tomorrow, I must look into Taunton's history

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and something altogether more discordant.

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'The next day, I'm up early and out to soak up the atmosphere of this

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'historic town.'

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The name Taunton means, "Town on the River Tone"

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and there's been a settlement here since the Bronze Age.

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It grew to be prosperous in the Middle Ages,

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thanks to the wool trade.

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But my focus is on the end of the 17th century.

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The English Civil War was over, but, once again,

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the monarchy was under threat.

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Bradshaw's tells me that, here in Taunton,

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"The ill-fated Duke of Monmouth proclaimed himself King, in 1685."

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He'd risen in rebellion, against the new monarch, James II, who,

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unlike his predecessor, was a Catholic.

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There followed a mighty clash of arms

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and the last battle to be fought on English soil.

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The Duke of Monmouth was an illegitimate

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son of King Charles II, living in self-imposed exile in Holland.

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In February 1685, he landed in Dorset with 82 men and rode to Taunton,

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where the Protestant-leaning citizens welcomed him.

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Something they would come to regret.

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I'm heading to St Mary's Church in Chedzoy,

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ten miles north of Taunton, to hear about the decisive

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Battle of Sedgemoor, from the head of Somerset Museum, Steve Minute.

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Hello, Steve. Beautiful church.

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It is, one of the many fantastic ones in Somerset.

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'Chedzoy Church has 13th century origins and a tower 70ft high,

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'which gives a commanding view of the surrounding countryside.'

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Why have we come to the roof of the tower of beautiful Chedzy Church?

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Well, there was one small incident

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that occurred immediately before the

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Battle of Sedgemoor, which had a huge impact

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on the events at that time.

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On the morning of 5th July 1685, a local man, by the name

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of William Spark, he was a farmer, came up here with his spyglass.

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He looked out from where we are now, across to Westonzoyland,

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where the Royal army was camped

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and saw that they weren't particularly well-protected.

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And, as a consequence of that, Monmouth changed his plans.

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And on the night of 5th July, he set out,

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in view of a surprise attack on the Royal army.

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What was the result of the attack?

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It was an utter disaster, sadly, for the Duke of Monmouth

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and his followers.

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The night was very misty, they couldn't find

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crossings of some of the ditches and then a pistol was fired.

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Almost certainly one of the Royal Cavalry

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had spotted something happening.

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The rebels panicked and hundreds of people were killed.

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There followed an infamous period in British history.

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The fleeing rebels,

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and anyone thought to have sympathised with them,

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were rounded up and put on trial at what became known as

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the Bloody Assizes.

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"After the defeat at Sedgemoor, King James' chief justice,

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"Jeffreys, the worthy tool of such a monster,

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"held his Bloody Assizes, at Taunton." Just here.

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"Hundreds of poor wretches were condemned to death,

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"after being persuaded to throw themselves on the King's mercy.

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"The executioner hanged one man three times."

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I just can't imagine what it would've been like to be one of the accused.

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Bring on John Hucker.

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-Traitor!

-Traitor!

-Hang him!

-Traitor!

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Silence!

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John Hucker, you stand accused of high treason,

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by lately being in armed rebellion against your lawful King.

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I am obliged by law to give you the right to plead guilty or not guilty.

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However, I will extend leniency, where possible,

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to those who plead guilty.

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I have a muster roll here, from the Duke of Monmouth's army,

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with your name on it, as a Captain of Horse.

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I also have diverse, loyal witnesses who will swear they saw you with

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the Duke and indeed followed him all the way to the battle at Sedgemoor.

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That being so, how do you plead?

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In view of your words, my Lord, I plead guilty

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and throw myself upon the mercy of this court.

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"Guilty", eh?

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Regrettably, the depth of your crime is such that mercy has flown.

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So, John Hucker, I find you guilty of high treason

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against your lawful King.

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Do you have anything to say before I pass sentence?

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-He's a traitor!

-Traitor!

-Liar!

-String him up!

-Traitor!

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Silence!

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I stand before my God, as a man of conscience.

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I could not remain idle and see England led back to popery.

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And, for that, I shall die.

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Indeed you will.

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John Hucker, one time captain of rebel horse, your lands,

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properties and monies will be forfeit to the Crown.

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I sentence you to a traitor's death, you will be hanged by the neck,

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cut down whilst still alive and then drawn and quartered.

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May God have mercy on your soul.

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Captain, take him away.

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In all, 144 men and women were condemned to death at the Assizes.

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I'll have a black tea, please.

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'Luckily, for us actors, it's a refreshing cup of tea,

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'not the gallows that beckons.'

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I must say, you were a very fearsome crowd, you really were. You!

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You, screaming at me.

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Thank you all very much indeed.

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I've got a train to catch,

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so...I can't hang around.

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'Divesting myself of 17th century garb, I return to Taunton Station

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'for the final leg of this 200 mile railway adventure.'

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The last station on my journey will be Exeter St David's.

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Bradshaw says that, "Dartmoor and the waste called Dartmoor Forest occupy

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"the greater portion of the western district of Devonshire, which

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"extends from the Vale of Exeter to the banks of the River Tamar."

0:21:150:21:19

What a lovely, vast area, in which to play a massive game of hide and seek.

0:21:190:21:25

Dartmoor and Dartmoor Forest cover about 365 square

0:21:300:21:34

miles of rugged upland and wooded valleys.

0:21:340:21:38

Interspersed with craggy, granite outcrops, known as tors.

0:21:380:21:43

It was officially designated a national park in 1951,

0:21:430:21:48

but the Dartmoor Preservation Society was established back in 1883.

0:21:480:21:53

And it was popular with Victorian walkers and nature lovers.

0:21:530:21:57

News has reached my ears of a Dartmoor tradition,

0:21:590:22:03

called letterboxing, which has enthusiasts

0:22:030:22:06

descending from all over the country to scour the landscape.

0:22:060:22:10

To find out how it all started and what they're looking for,

0:22:100:22:14

I'm heading up onto the moor to meet keen letterboxer, Pat Reed.

0:22:140:22:19

-Hello, Pat.

-Hello, Michael, welcome to Shilstone Tor.

0:22:190:22:23

Thank you very much. Well, it's a remote spot,

0:22:230:22:26

but I've been sent here to find out about letterboxing.

0:22:260:22:30

What is it, when did it begin?

0:22:300:22:32

It began in 1854, it was started by a man called James Perrot,

0:22:320:22:39

who put the first letterbox in a place called Cranmere Pool,

0:22:390:22:42

in a rather remote part of Dartmoor.

0:22:420:22:46

He left it there, he had his visiting card,

0:22:460:22:48

he left that behind in it as well.

0:22:480:22:51

And then people used to go

0:22:510:22:52

and put their own visiting cards in, to show that they'd actually

0:22:520:22:57

transversed that really difficult part of the moor.

0:22:570:23:00

It was a challenge,

0:23:000:23:01

but even the ladies, in their long dresses, managed it.

0:23:010:23:04

And that must've been quite something, I think.

0:23:040:23:07

How do you get your clues?

0:23:070:23:09

Well, in October and March, on the days when the clock goes forward and

0:23:090:23:13

the clock goes back, we have what is called, a "letterboxer's meet".

0:23:130:23:17

At that meet you can buy a catalogue.

0:23:170:23:20

Which is what I'm holding in my hand now

0:23:200:23:23

and this tells you where all the boxes are.

0:23:230:23:27

"Black Spots, no.66, Shilstone Tor.

0:23:270:23:30

"White chimney 086 degrees, a backward L-shaped,

0:23:300:23:34

"small holly in boulder very close."

0:23:340:23:37

This is written in gobbledegook.

0:23:370:23:40

Well, I will help you. Tell me what the bearing is on the tor.

0:23:400:23:43

172 degrees.

0:23:430:23:45

So there is the compass,

0:23:450:23:47

so you need to move this dial around until 172 is there.

0:23:470:23:51

Keep it in your hand.

0:23:510:23:53

You have to go where the arrow is telling you to go.

0:23:530:23:57

Pat, you've given me a little clue, I think

0:23:570:23:59

-I'm meant to go in that direction.

-I think you'd better!

0:23:590:24:02

'Having been nudged gently in the right direction,

0:24:060:24:09

'I now must keep my eyes open for landmarks.'

0:24:090:24:13

When we set out, I couldn't see any white chimney,

0:24:130:24:17

but, I must say, that white chimney, actually, is very obvious.

0:24:170:24:20

It is very obvious.

0:24:200:24:21

Pat, I can see the tree, so I'm putting that now to 335.

0:24:210:24:27

-Do you know, I'm getting quite...

-You're getting very good at it.

0:24:270:24:30

Well, I don't know about that, but I'm getting in to it.

0:24:300:24:33

-Getting the hang of it.

-And enjoying it.

0:24:330:24:36

Could you remind me, what are we looking for?

0:24:360:24:39

Yes, we're looking for an L-shaped rock, with a small holly growing in it.

0:24:390:24:42

-Right.

-So we have to climb, I think. A little bit.

0:24:420:24:45

Let's climb, here we go.

0:24:450:24:48

'20 minutes later, after a lot of bracken bashing, we strike lucky.'

0:24:480:24:54

-I've found it!

-Hooray!

0:24:540:24:56

A backward, L-shaped rock.

0:24:560:24:59

But finding the rock was not the point, was it, Pat?

0:24:590:25:01

It was to find the box.

0:25:010:25:03

Exactly, but the clue tells you that it's under the rock,

0:25:030:25:06

so you've got to look and see.

0:25:060:25:09

-There we have it.

-Ah-ha!

0:25:090:25:12

(The moment I've been waiting for.)

0:25:120:25:17

Is it money?

0:25:170:25:19

No.

0:25:190:25:21

-MICHAEL LAUGHS

-No such luck.

0:25:210:25:24

-Oh.

-That's the visitors' book.

0:25:240:25:26

And a stamp...

0:25:260:25:27

..of a dog, by the look of it. What happens next?

0:25:280:25:32

Every letterboxer carries an ink pad and a book and a stamp.

0:25:320:25:36

Here is your special Great British Railway letterboxing stamp.

0:25:360:25:41

Ah, thank you.

0:25:410:25:42

'Until the 1970s,

0:25:430:25:45

'there were no more than a dozen letterboxes around Dartmoor.

0:25:450:25:49

'But in the last 40 years, it's become so popular that there are said

0:25:490:25:53

'to be over 5,000 and definitely room for one more.'

0:25:530:25:57

Pat, do you think I might create my own letterbox?

0:25:570:26:00

I think that would be a wonderful idea and I know just the spot

0:26:000:26:03

where you could do just that thing.

0:26:030:26:06

Pat, what a wizard spot. That is wonderful.

0:26:140:26:17

Absolutely perfect, it'll take your box.

0:26:170:26:20

Put my stamp inside, seal the box.

0:26:200:26:25

-Into the hole.

-Yes.

0:26:290:26:31

How will people find the Great British Railway Journey's box?

0:26:310:26:35

The clue for this box will appear in the next

0:26:350:26:38

edition of the Catalogue of Dartmoor Letterboxers.

0:26:380:26:41

-They'll have to buy the book.

-They will indeed.

0:26:410:26:44

The Victorians were remarkably inventive in every sphere.

0:26:460:26:51

From industry, to the arts, to how they spent their leisure time.

0:26:530:26:58

It was an age of change and progress, powered by the railways.

0:26:580:27:02

My rail journey that began in urban Birmingham has

0:27:020:27:06

ended on desolate Dartmoor, passing Jerusalem on the way.

0:27:060:27:10

It started with a whistle and, I feared, would end with a hanging.

0:27:100:27:16

Once again, my Bradshaw's has brought our island history dramatically

0:27:160:27:20

to life.

0:27:200:27:22

With all its triumphs, tragedies and treacheries.

0:27:220:27:26

Every time I step on a train, a new treasure hunt begins.

0:27:260:27:30

Next time...

0:27:400:27:42

Urgh!

0:27:460:27:48

That is a Princess Alexandra style false fringe.

0:27:480:27:51

Real human hair from the 1880s.

0:27:510:27:55

-Sounding better.

-That's pretty impressive for a first attempt.

0:27:580:28:03

Got it in one!

0:28:030:28:05

1,500 townspeople threatened that,

0:28:080:28:10

if Mortimer was brought out to them, they would hang him.

0:28:100:28:13

I imagine you Sackvilles have been fairly cautious

0:28:130:28:16

about public opinion ever since.

0:28:160:28:17

Extremely!

0:28:170:28:19

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