Browse content similar to Bridgwater to Dartmoor. Check below for episodes and series from the same categories and more!
Line | From | To | |
---|---|---|---|
For Victorian Britons, George Bradshaw was a household name. | 0:00:04 | 0:00:08 | |
At a time when railways were new, | 0:00:09 | 0:00:11 | |
Bradshaw's guidebook inspired them to take to the tracks. | 0:00:11 | 0:00:15 | |
I'm using a Bradshaw's Guide to understand how trains transformed | 0:00:15 | 0:00:20 | |
Britain - its landscape, its industry, society and leisure time. | 0:00:20 | 0:00:26 | |
As I crisscross the country 150 years later, | 0:00:26 | 0:00:30 | |
it helps me to discover the Britain of today. | 0:00:30 | 0:00:33 | |
On this final leg of my journey from England's heartlands to | 0:00:53 | 0:00:57 | |
moorlands, I'll be discovering how the Victorian age marked | 0:00:57 | 0:01:01 | |
a change in our attitude to nature, reflected in many things, | 0:01:01 | 0:01:05 | |
from ambitious engineering projects to romantic poetry. | 0:01:05 | 0:01:09 | |
My route, which began in Birmingham, now arrives in south-west England, | 0:01:17 | 0:01:22 | |
where I'll be visiting ancient farmlands | 0:01:22 | 0:01:24 | |
and battlegrounds, before ending up on the wild | 0:01:24 | 0:01:28 | |
uplands of one of Britain's most glorious national parks. | 0:01:28 | 0:01:32 | |
Today, I'm starting out in romantic Bridgwater in Somerset, then on | 0:01:33 | 0:01:38 | |
to historic Taunton, before arriving at my final destination, Dartmoor. | 0:01:38 | 0:01:43 | |
On this leg of the journey, | 0:01:45 | 0:01:46 | |
I get to grips with a miracle of Victorian engineering... | 0:01:46 | 0:01:50 | |
I've never felt so much power. | 0:01:51 | 0:01:53 | |
ANGRY SHOUTING | 0:01:55 | 0:01:57 | |
..stand trial in Taunton and suffer the full weight of the law... | 0:01:57 | 0:02:02 | |
I plead guilty and throw myself upon the mercy of this court. | 0:02:02 | 0:02:06 | |
..and go looking for hidden treasure on Dartmoor. | 0:02:07 | 0:02:10 | |
-I've found it! -Hurray! | 0:02:10 | 0:02:12 | |
SHE LAUGHS | 0:02:12 | 0:02:14 | |
I'm now approaching the end of my journey, and the town of Bridgwater. | 0:02:18 | 0:02:23 | |
Bradshaw's tells me that at Nether Stowey, Coleridge lived | 0:02:23 | 0:02:26 | |
from 1796 to 1798 after marrying, and here he wrote The Ancient Mariner. | 0:02:26 | 0:02:33 | |
Wordsworth was his neighbour, and composed his lyrical ballads, | 0:02:33 | 0:02:37 | |
the subject of many interminable discussions, | 0:02:37 | 0:02:41 | |
as the friends walked over the hills together. | 0:02:41 | 0:02:45 | |
I'm headed for Somerset's Little Poets Corner. | 0:02:45 | 0:02:48 | |
Lying at the edge of the Somerset Levels, | 0:02:49 | 0:02:52 | |
the ancient inland port of Bridgwater is seven miles from the sea, | 0:02:52 | 0:02:57 | |
and has been an important trading centre since Saxon times. | 0:02:57 | 0:03:01 | |
The railway arrived here in 1841, and the station, | 0:03:01 | 0:03:05 | |
designed by Brunel, is the perfect jumping-off point for my visit. | 0:03:05 | 0:03:09 | |
In nearby Nether Stowey is a small cottage once | 0:03:11 | 0:03:14 | |
lived in by Samuel Taylor Coleridge, | 0:03:14 | 0:03:17 | |
who wrote some of his most famous work here, including Kubla Khan. | 0:03:17 | 0:03:22 | |
I hope to discover more about the poet's life in the village | 0:03:22 | 0:03:26 | |
from Coleridge expert Tina Mitchell. | 0:03:26 | 0:03:28 | |
-Hello, Tina. -Hello, Michael! | 0:03:30 | 0:03:32 | |
Tina, what was it that brought the Samuel Taylor Coleridge family | 0:03:32 | 0:03:36 | |
-to this cottage? -They were looking to escape their debts, and they met up | 0:03:36 | 0:03:40 | |
with a friend, a local man of substance, Tom Poole. | 0:03:40 | 0:03:42 | |
This was the only cottage at the time that he could find for them, | 0:03:42 | 0:03:45 | |
and he described it as "a bit of a hovel". | 0:03:45 | 0:03:47 | |
I mean, nowadays, it looks very nice indeed, a lovely village | 0:03:47 | 0:03:50 | |
and a lovely cottage. You're telling me it was something different then? | 0:03:50 | 0:03:53 | |
When they moved in, you have to imagine a much smaller cottage. | 0:03:53 | 0:03:56 | |
It was thatched, there was an open sewer running past the front door, | 0:03:56 | 0:04:00 | |
so the stench in summer would've been something unimaginable. | 0:04:00 | 0:04:03 | |
Was it a coincidence that the Wordsworths were neighbours | 0:04:03 | 0:04:06 | |
-staying close by? -No, it wasn't. | 0:04:06 | 0:04:08 | |
They'd met previously while walking | 0:04:08 | 0:04:09 | |
and a friendship began which was to last a very, very long time. | 0:04:09 | 0:04:13 | |
So, the Wordsworths actively looked to move here to be near to | 0:04:13 | 0:04:16 | |
Samuel Taylor Coleridge. | 0:04:16 | 0:04:18 | |
Coleridge and the Wordsworths went on almost daily walks | 0:04:19 | 0:04:22 | |
together in the nearby Quantock Hills. | 0:04:22 | 0:04:26 | |
But his long-suffering wife Sarah stayed behind, to try to make | 0:04:26 | 0:04:29 | |
the best of their new home. | 0:04:29 | 0:04:32 | |
Tina, what were conditions like for them? | 0:04:33 | 0:04:35 | |
You have to imagine that the cottage then, | 0:04:35 | 0:04:37 | |
when they moved in, was very dark, it was damp, it was very draughty. | 0:04:37 | 0:04:41 | |
It was overrun with mice. | 0:04:41 | 0:04:43 | |
How did Coleridge's wife Sarah feel about that? | 0:04:43 | 0:04:45 | |
Obviously, her priority was to her child Hartley. | 0:04:45 | 0:04:48 | |
She wanted to get the cottage as cosy as possible as fast | 0:04:48 | 0:04:52 | |
as possible and as warm as she could. | 0:04:52 | 0:04:54 | |
Was this a period of strain for the marriage, do you think? | 0:04:54 | 0:04:56 | |
Originally, no. | 0:04:56 | 0:04:57 | |
They were very much in love when they moved into the cottage. | 0:04:57 | 0:05:00 | |
Unfortunately, when Samuel Taylor Coleridge was in Germany | 0:05:00 | 0:05:03 | |
for a long period, Berkeley, their second child, | 0:05:03 | 0:05:05 | |
became very ill while he was away and died in the February. | 0:05:05 | 0:05:09 | |
Samuel Taylor Coleridge didn't come back until the July, | 0:05:09 | 0:05:12 | |
so obviously, this put a great strain on the marriage | 0:05:12 | 0:05:14 | |
and was the beginning of the end of the marriage. | 0:05:14 | 0:05:17 | |
Nowadays, it's generally accepted that Coleridge was probably | 0:05:17 | 0:05:21 | |
suffering from manic depression, | 0:05:21 | 0:05:23 | |
which over the years was exacerbated by his opium addiction. | 0:05:23 | 0:05:28 | |
But when he moved to Nether Stowey, he was still a young idealist, | 0:05:28 | 0:05:32 | |
seeking the simple life for his family, surrounded by nature. | 0:05:32 | 0:05:37 | |
Tina, the garden looks very beautiful. | 0:05:37 | 0:05:39 | |
Was it like this in Coleridge's day? | 0:05:39 | 0:05:41 | |
When they moved in, it was twice the size of what you see today. | 0:05:41 | 0:05:44 | |
His idea was to live a life of self-sufficiency. | 0:05:44 | 0:05:47 | |
Unfortunately, he was slowly taken away to other areas, | 0:05:47 | 0:05:51 | |
such as writing his poetry and talking long into the night, | 0:05:51 | 0:05:54 | |
and the garden unfortunately suffered | 0:05:54 | 0:05:56 | |
and ended up as more of a wild garden than a vegetable garden. | 0:05:56 | 0:06:00 | |
So if the garden was abandoned, | 0:06:00 | 0:06:02 | |
that, at least, implies that this was a period when he was writing. | 0:06:02 | 0:06:05 | |
It was while he was here that he was most prolific. | 0:06:05 | 0:06:08 | |
It was the birthplace of the Romantic literary movement | 0:06:08 | 0:06:11 | |
and while he was here, in those short three years, | 0:06:11 | 0:06:13 | |
he wrote Kubla Khan, The Rime Of The Ancient Mariner | 0:06:13 | 0:06:16 | |
and he wrote This Lime-Tree Bower My Prison. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:18 | |
'This Lime-Tree Bower My Prison, was inspired not so much by nature, | 0:06:18 | 0:06:23 | |
'but by his sorrow at missing out on it.' | 0:06:23 | 0:06:25 | |
Coleridge was about to set off on yet another walk with his cronies, | 0:06:25 | 0:06:29 | |
when his wife, presumably now heartily fed up, | 0:06:29 | 0:06:32 | |
spilt a pan of boiling milk over his foot. | 0:06:32 | 0:06:35 | |
He retired to the said lime-tree bower in pain, to vent his angst. | 0:06:35 | 0:06:41 | |
Let's have a read of that famous sulk. | 0:06:41 | 0:06:44 | |
"Well, they are gone, and here must I remain, | 0:06:46 | 0:06:50 | |
"This lime-tree bower my prison! I have lost | 0:06:50 | 0:06:53 | |
"Beauties and feelings, such as would have been | 0:06:53 | 0:06:55 | |
"Most sweet to my remembrance even when age | 0:06:55 | 0:06:58 | |
"Had dimm'd mine eyes to blindness! They, meanwhile, | 0:06:58 | 0:07:02 | |
"Friends, whom I never more may meet again, | 0:07:02 | 0:07:05 | |
"On Springy heath, along the hill-top edge, | 0:07:05 | 0:07:09 | |
"Wander in gladness..." | 0:07:09 | 0:07:11 | |
-You've got to feel sorry for him, haven't you? -Stuck here on his own. | 0:07:11 | 0:07:15 | |
Bradshaw's comments that, "Somerset possesses every gradation, | 0:07:23 | 0:07:27 | |
"from the lofty mountain and barren moor, to the rich | 0:07:27 | 0:07:31 | |
"and cultivated vale | 0:07:31 | 0:07:33 | |
"and then descends to the unimprovable marsh and fens." | 0:07:33 | 0:07:37 | |
But that was to underestimate Victorian ingenuity. | 0:07:37 | 0:07:41 | |
The low-lying land could be improved and made suitable for agriculture. | 0:07:41 | 0:07:46 | |
And these newly raised banks of the River Parrett, | 0:07:46 | 0:07:50 | |
are intended to protect these fields from flooding. | 0:07:50 | 0:07:53 | |
'Man has been battling nature for control of the Somerset levels | 0:07:56 | 0:08:00 | |
'since Roman times. | 0:08:00 | 0:08:02 | |
'This 160,000 acres of coastal plain | 0:08:02 | 0:08:06 | |
'drains naturally into two rivers, the Tone and the Parrett. | 0:08:06 | 0:08:10 | |
'But the majority of the land lies below sea level, | 0:08:10 | 0:08:14 | |
'so a combination of tidal surges and heavy rains, | 0:08:14 | 0:08:17 | |
'such as we've seen in recent years, can have catastrophic consequences. | 0:08:17 | 0:08:22 | |
'Until the Victorian age, when floods came, residents | 0:08:22 | 0:08:26 | |
'and farmers could only watch and wait for the water to subside. | 0:08:26 | 0:08:31 | |
'But in 1830, an act of parliament ordered | 0:08:31 | 0:08:34 | |
'the construction of a steam-powered pumping station at Westonzoyland, | 0:08:34 | 0:08:39 | |
'to eject water from flooded land back into the river.' | 0:08:39 | 0:08:43 | |
Hello! | 0:08:45 | 0:08:47 | |
Are you going towards the Victorian pumping station? | 0:08:47 | 0:08:49 | |
-Yes, please jump on. -Thank you. | 0:08:49 | 0:08:51 | |
'I'm hitching a ride on one of the original log-carrying | 0:08:57 | 0:09:00 | |
'locomotives that would have kept the boiler supplied with fuel.' | 0:09:00 | 0:09:04 | |
-Thank you. -Thank you. | 0:09:10 | 0:09:12 | |
'In Victorian times, the station attendant, | 0:09:14 | 0:09:17 | |
'who operated the pump, would live here.' | 0:09:17 | 0:09:20 | |
Hello, Michael, welcome to Westonzoyland Pumping Station. | 0:09:22 | 0:09:25 | |
I'm looking forward to this. | 0:09:25 | 0:09:27 | |
'Nowadays, this remarkable machine is kept in working | 0:09:27 | 0:09:30 | |
'order by enthusiasts, including Alan Davies and John Trenchard.' | 0:09:30 | 0:09:35 | |
-This is a Victorian engine? -It is indeed, Michael. | 0:09:35 | 0:09:38 | |
It was built in 1861, developed by John George Appold. | 0:09:38 | 0:09:42 | |
And he demonstrated it in 1851, at the Great Exhibition. | 0:09:42 | 0:09:47 | |
Was this Victorian engine pretty effective as a pump? | 0:09:47 | 0:09:50 | |
It was very effective. | 0:09:50 | 0:09:52 | |
In fact, at the International Exhibition, of 1862, | 0:09:52 | 0:09:56 | |
one of these was set up with a tank of water. | 0:09:56 | 0:09:58 | |
It could pump 100 tonnes of water a minute. | 0:09:58 | 0:10:01 | |
That is about an inch of water off an acre of land every minute, | 0:10:01 | 0:10:05 | |
-which is quite phenomenal. -Absolutely phenomenal. | 0:10:05 | 0:10:08 | |
By the end of the Victorian era, | 0:10:08 | 0:10:10 | |
there were eight pumping stations on the Somerset Levels. | 0:10:10 | 0:10:13 | |
This is the only one still operational, | 0:10:13 | 0:10:16 | |
although it's not part of the drainage system any more. | 0:10:16 | 0:10:19 | |
I've never felt so much power. | 0:10:29 | 0:10:31 | |
In 2014, after some of the worst January rains on record, | 0:10:33 | 0:10:38 | |
25 square miles of the Somerset Levels were left underwater. | 0:10:38 | 0:10:43 | |
There followed the largest mobile pumping operation ever | 0:10:43 | 0:10:46 | |
undertaken in Europe. | 0:10:46 | 0:10:47 | |
With 120 pumps working around the clock, capable of moving 8.5 million | 0:10:47 | 0:10:53 | |
tonnes of water a day, enough to fill Wembley Stadium seven times over. | 0:10:53 | 0:10:59 | |
Carymoor station was one of those on the front-line | 0:10:59 | 0:11:02 | |
and I'm heading there now to meet Tim Musgrove, | 0:11:02 | 0:11:05 | |
of the Environment Agency, to hear how they coped. | 0:11:05 | 0:11:09 | |
-Tim. -Hello, Michael. | 0:11:09 | 0:11:11 | |
-I've just come from seeing a Victorian steam engine... -Yes. | 0:11:11 | 0:11:15 | |
..which, though working, is not moving water around any more, | 0:11:15 | 0:11:18 | |
but these are. | 0:11:18 | 0:11:19 | |
-Yes, these two do and do most winters. -What is their job? | 0:11:19 | 0:11:23 | |
Their job is to get the water from the moor | 0:11:23 | 0:11:26 | |
and push it out into the river. | 0:11:26 | 0:11:28 | |
These engines themselves look quite elderly. | 0:11:28 | 0:11:30 | |
Yes, they're 1954, they went in and they're just clocking up | 0:11:30 | 0:11:34 | |
with 750,000 hours without any breakdowns. | 0:11:34 | 0:11:37 | |
What is the capacity? How much water can they pump? | 0:11:37 | 0:11:40 | |
They're pumping just over 2,200 litres a second, each. | 0:11:40 | 0:11:44 | |
You had, in Somerset, devastating floods in 2014. | 0:11:44 | 0:11:48 | |
What was that like for you? | 0:11:48 | 0:11:50 | |
It was a busy time, I can't deny. | 0:11:50 | 0:11:52 | |
In here it was all flooded for two months. | 0:11:52 | 0:11:55 | |
Were the engines damaged? | 0:11:55 | 0:11:56 | |
No, no, the engines don't get any water on them, | 0:11:56 | 0:11:59 | |
they are built too high out of the water. | 0:11:59 | 0:12:01 | |
Could I actually see the engine running? | 0:12:01 | 0:12:03 | |
Yes, we're just doing a maintenance run, | 0:12:03 | 0:12:05 | |
so we can start them up, run and pump some water. | 0:12:05 | 0:12:08 | |
Success! | 0:12:13 | 0:12:15 | |
Can we see what it's doing? | 0:12:16 | 0:12:19 | |
Did I really do that? | 0:12:21 | 0:12:23 | |
-So that's, what, about two tonnes of water a second? -Yes. | 0:12:23 | 0:12:26 | |
And this is, which river now? | 0:12:26 | 0:12:28 | |
This is the River Tone and it flows down | 0:12:28 | 0:12:30 | |
and out to the River Parrett and then into the Bristol Channel. | 0:12:30 | 0:12:33 | |
-And then safely into the sea. -Yes. | 0:12:33 | 0:12:36 | |
'I'm returning to Bridgwater Station, | 0:12:41 | 0:12:44 | |
'to catch the Great Western service, heading south.' | 0:12:44 | 0:12:47 | |
I shall spend the last night of this journey in Taunton. | 0:13:06 | 0:13:10 | |
Bradshaw says, "The town, as seen from the station, | 0:13:10 | 0:13:13 | |
"has a most pleasing appearance. | 0:13:13 | 0:13:16 | |
"It's situated in the central part of the luxuriant Vale of Taunton Deane." | 0:13:16 | 0:13:22 | |
And it mentions the Castle Hotel, but, for once, | 0:13:22 | 0:13:25 | |
I've no need for my Bradshaw's. | 0:13:25 | 0:13:27 | |
It's a place I know well. | 0:13:27 | 0:13:29 | |
'My guidebook gives fulsome praise to this ancient borough town, | 0:13:40 | 0:13:45 | |
'but before I explore parts unknown, I'm going to relax | 0:13:45 | 0:13:49 | |
'and enjoy myself in familiar surroundings.' | 0:13:49 | 0:13:53 | |
-Thank you, that looks lovely. -Thank you. -Thank you. | 0:13:56 | 0:13:59 | |
I know this hotel well, | 0:14:02 | 0:14:04 | |
cos I've often spent weekends here listening to classical music. | 0:14:04 | 0:14:08 | |
But, tomorrow, I must look into Taunton's history | 0:14:08 | 0:14:11 | |
and something altogether more discordant. | 0:14:11 | 0:14:14 | |
'The next day, I'm up early and out to soak up the atmosphere of this | 0:14:22 | 0:14:27 | |
'historic town.' | 0:14:27 | 0:14:29 | |
The name Taunton means, "Town on the River Tone" | 0:14:29 | 0:14:32 | |
and there's been a settlement here since the Bronze Age. | 0:14:32 | 0:14:36 | |
It grew to be prosperous in the Middle Ages, | 0:14:36 | 0:14:38 | |
thanks to the wool trade. | 0:14:38 | 0:14:40 | |
But my focus is on the end of the 17th century. | 0:14:40 | 0:14:43 | |
The English Civil War was over, but, once again, | 0:14:43 | 0:14:47 | |
the monarchy was under threat. | 0:14:47 | 0:14:49 | |
Bradshaw's tells me that, here in Taunton, | 0:14:51 | 0:14:54 | |
"The ill-fated Duke of Monmouth proclaimed himself King, in 1685." | 0:14:54 | 0:15:01 | |
He'd risen in rebellion, against the new monarch, James II, who, | 0:15:01 | 0:15:05 | |
unlike his predecessor, was a Catholic. | 0:15:05 | 0:15:08 | |
There followed a mighty clash of arms | 0:15:08 | 0:15:11 | |
and the last battle to be fought on English soil. | 0:15:11 | 0:15:15 | |
The Duke of Monmouth was an illegitimate | 0:15:19 | 0:15:22 | |
son of King Charles II, living in self-imposed exile in Holland. | 0:15:22 | 0:15:27 | |
In February 1685, he landed in Dorset with 82 men and rode to Taunton, | 0:15:27 | 0:15:33 | |
where the Protestant-leaning citizens welcomed him. | 0:15:33 | 0:15:38 | |
Something they would come to regret. | 0:15:38 | 0:15:41 | |
I'm heading to St Mary's Church in Chedzoy, | 0:15:41 | 0:15:44 | |
ten miles north of Taunton, to hear about the decisive | 0:15:44 | 0:15:48 | |
Battle of Sedgemoor, from the head of Somerset Museum, Steve Minute. | 0:15:48 | 0:15:52 | |
Hello, Steve. Beautiful church. | 0:15:52 | 0:15:55 | |
It is, one of the many fantastic ones in Somerset. | 0:15:55 | 0:15:58 | |
'Chedzoy Church has 13th century origins and a tower 70ft high, | 0:15:58 | 0:16:04 | |
'which gives a commanding view of the surrounding countryside.' | 0:16:04 | 0:16:08 | |
Why have we come to the roof of the tower of beautiful Chedzy Church? | 0:16:09 | 0:16:13 | |
Well, there was one small incident | 0:16:13 | 0:16:15 | |
that occurred immediately before the | 0:16:15 | 0:16:17 | |
Battle of Sedgemoor, which had a huge impact | 0:16:17 | 0:16:20 | |
on the events at that time. | 0:16:20 | 0:16:22 | |
On the morning of 5th July 1685, a local man, by the name | 0:16:22 | 0:16:28 | |
of William Spark, he was a farmer, came up here with his spyglass. | 0:16:28 | 0:16:34 | |
He looked out from where we are now, across to Westonzoyland, | 0:16:34 | 0:16:38 | |
where the Royal army was camped | 0:16:38 | 0:16:40 | |
and saw that they weren't particularly well-protected. | 0:16:40 | 0:16:43 | |
And, as a consequence of that, Monmouth changed his plans. | 0:16:43 | 0:16:47 | |
And on the night of 5th July, he set out, | 0:16:47 | 0:16:50 | |
in view of a surprise attack on the Royal army. | 0:16:50 | 0:16:53 | |
What was the result of the attack? | 0:16:53 | 0:16:55 | |
It was an utter disaster, sadly, for the Duke of Monmouth | 0:16:55 | 0:16:57 | |
and his followers. | 0:16:57 | 0:16:59 | |
The night was very misty, they couldn't find | 0:16:59 | 0:17:02 | |
crossings of some of the ditches and then a pistol was fired. | 0:17:02 | 0:17:05 | |
Almost certainly one of the Royal Cavalry | 0:17:05 | 0:17:07 | |
had spotted something happening. | 0:17:07 | 0:17:09 | |
The rebels panicked and hundreds of people were killed. | 0:17:09 | 0:17:12 | |
There followed an infamous period in British history. | 0:17:14 | 0:17:18 | |
The fleeing rebels, | 0:17:18 | 0:17:20 | |
and anyone thought to have sympathised with them, | 0:17:20 | 0:17:23 | |
were rounded up and put on trial at what became known as | 0:17:23 | 0:17:26 | |
the Bloody Assizes. | 0:17:26 | 0:17:29 | |
"After the defeat at Sedgemoor, King James' chief justice, | 0:17:29 | 0:17:33 | |
"Jeffreys, the worthy tool of such a monster, | 0:17:33 | 0:17:37 | |
"held his Bloody Assizes, at Taunton." Just here. | 0:17:37 | 0:17:42 | |
"Hundreds of poor wretches were condemned to death, | 0:17:42 | 0:17:45 | |
"after being persuaded to throw themselves on the King's mercy. | 0:17:45 | 0:17:50 | |
"The executioner hanged one man three times." | 0:17:50 | 0:17:54 | |
I just can't imagine what it would've been like to be one of the accused. | 0:17:54 | 0:17:58 | |
Bring on John Hucker. | 0:18:01 | 0:18:04 | |
-Traitor! -Traitor! -Hang him! -Traitor! | 0:18:04 | 0:18:09 | |
Silence! | 0:18:09 | 0:18:12 | |
John Hucker, you stand accused of high treason, | 0:18:12 | 0:18:15 | |
by lately being in armed rebellion against your lawful King. | 0:18:15 | 0:18:19 | |
I am obliged by law to give you the right to plead guilty or not guilty. | 0:18:19 | 0:18:23 | |
However, I will extend leniency, where possible, | 0:18:23 | 0:18:26 | |
to those who plead guilty. | 0:18:26 | 0:18:29 | |
I have a muster roll here, from the Duke of Monmouth's army, | 0:18:29 | 0:18:34 | |
with your name on it, as a Captain of Horse. | 0:18:34 | 0:18:38 | |
I also have diverse, loyal witnesses who will swear they saw you with | 0:18:38 | 0:18:42 | |
the Duke and indeed followed him all the way to the battle at Sedgemoor. | 0:18:42 | 0:18:46 | |
That being so, how do you plead? | 0:18:46 | 0:18:49 | |
In view of your words, my Lord, I plead guilty | 0:18:54 | 0:18:58 | |
and throw myself upon the mercy of this court. | 0:18:58 | 0:19:01 | |
"Guilty", eh? | 0:19:03 | 0:19:05 | |
Regrettably, the depth of your crime is such that mercy has flown. | 0:19:05 | 0:19:10 | |
So, John Hucker, I find you guilty of high treason | 0:19:10 | 0:19:14 | |
against your lawful King. | 0:19:14 | 0:19:16 | |
Do you have anything to say before I pass sentence? | 0:19:16 | 0:19:19 | |
-He's a traitor! -Traitor! -Liar! -String him up! -Traitor! | 0:19:19 | 0:19:24 | |
Silence! | 0:19:24 | 0:19:26 | |
I stand before my God, as a man of conscience. | 0:19:26 | 0:19:30 | |
I could not remain idle and see England led back to popery. | 0:19:30 | 0:19:35 | |
And, for that, I shall die. | 0:19:35 | 0:19:38 | |
Indeed you will. | 0:19:39 | 0:19:41 | |
John Hucker, one time captain of rebel horse, your lands, | 0:19:41 | 0:19:45 | |
properties and monies will be forfeit to the Crown. | 0:19:45 | 0:19:48 | |
I sentence you to a traitor's death, you will be hanged by the neck, | 0:19:48 | 0:19:52 | |
cut down whilst still alive and then drawn and quartered. | 0:19:52 | 0:19:57 | |
May God have mercy on your soul. | 0:19:57 | 0:19:59 | |
Captain, take him away. | 0:19:59 | 0:20:01 | |
In all, 144 men and women were condemned to death at the Assizes. | 0:20:09 | 0:20:15 | |
I'll have a black tea, please. | 0:20:15 | 0:20:17 | |
'Luckily, for us actors, it's a refreshing cup of tea, | 0:20:17 | 0:20:21 | |
'not the gallows that beckons.' | 0:20:21 | 0:20:23 | |
I must say, you were a very fearsome crowd, you really were. You! | 0:20:23 | 0:20:31 | |
You, screaming at me. | 0:20:31 | 0:20:32 | |
Thank you all very much indeed. | 0:20:34 | 0:20:36 | |
I've got a train to catch, | 0:20:36 | 0:20:39 | |
so...I can't hang around. | 0:20:39 | 0:20:41 | |
'Divesting myself of 17th century garb, I return to Taunton Station | 0:20:43 | 0:20:49 | |
'for the final leg of this 200 mile railway adventure.' | 0:20:49 | 0:20:53 | |
The last station on my journey will be Exeter St David's. | 0:21:01 | 0:21:05 | |
Bradshaw says that, "Dartmoor and the waste called Dartmoor Forest occupy | 0:21:05 | 0:21:11 | |
"the greater portion of the western district of Devonshire, which | 0:21:11 | 0:21:15 | |
"extends from the Vale of Exeter to the banks of the River Tamar." | 0:21:15 | 0:21:19 | |
What a lovely, vast area, in which to play a massive game of hide and seek. | 0:21:19 | 0:21:25 | |
Dartmoor and Dartmoor Forest cover about 365 square | 0:21:30 | 0:21:34 | |
miles of rugged upland and wooded valleys. | 0:21:34 | 0:21:38 | |
Interspersed with craggy, granite outcrops, known as tors. | 0:21:38 | 0:21:43 | |
It was officially designated a national park in 1951, | 0:21:43 | 0:21:48 | |
but the Dartmoor Preservation Society was established back in 1883. | 0:21:48 | 0:21:53 | |
And it was popular with Victorian walkers and nature lovers. | 0:21:53 | 0:21:57 | |
News has reached my ears of a Dartmoor tradition, | 0:21:59 | 0:22:03 | |
called letterboxing, which has enthusiasts | 0:22:03 | 0:22:06 | |
descending from all over the country to scour the landscape. | 0:22:06 | 0:22:10 | |
To find out how it all started and what they're looking for, | 0:22:10 | 0:22:14 | |
I'm heading up onto the moor to meet keen letterboxer, Pat Reed. | 0:22:14 | 0:22:19 | |
-Hello, Pat. -Hello, Michael, welcome to Shilstone Tor. | 0:22:19 | 0:22:23 | |
Thank you very much. Well, it's a remote spot, | 0:22:23 | 0:22:26 | |
but I've been sent here to find out about letterboxing. | 0:22:26 | 0:22:30 | |
What is it, when did it begin? | 0:22:30 | 0:22:32 | |
It began in 1854, it was started by a man called James Perrot, | 0:22:32 | 0:22:39 | |
who put the first letterbox in a place called Cranmere Pool, | 0:22:39 | 0:22:42 | |
in a rather remote part of Dartmoor. | 0:22:42 | 0:22:46 | |
He left it there, he had his visiting card, | 0:22:46 | 0:22:48 | |
he left that behind in it as well. | 0:22:48 | 0:22:51 | |
And then people used to go | 0:22:51 | 0:22:52 | |
and put their own visiting cards in, to show that they'd actually | 0:22:52 | 0:22:57 | |
transversed that really difficult part of the moor. | 0:22:57 | 0:23:00 | |
It was a challenge, | 0:23:00 | 0:23:01 | |
but even the ladies, in their long dresses, managed it. | 0:23:01 | 0:23:04 | |
And that must've been quite something, I think. | 0:23:04 | 0:23:07 | |
How do you get your clues? | 0:23:07 | 0:23:09 | |
Well, in October and March, on the days when the clock goes forward and | 0:23:09 | 0:23:13 | |
the clock goes back, we have what is called, a "letterboxer's meet". | 0:23:13 | 0:23:17 | |
At that meet you can buy a catalogue. | 0:23:17 | 0:23:20 | |
Which is what I'm holding in my hand now | 0:23:20 | 0:23:23 | |
and this tells you where all the boxes are. | 0:23:23 | 0:23:27 | |
"Black Spots, no.66, Shilstone Tor. | 0:23:27 | 0:23:30 | |
"White chimney 086 degrees, a backward L-shaped, | 0:23:30 | 0:23:34 | |
"small holly in boulder very close." | 0:23:34 | 0:23:37 | |
This is written in gobbledegook. | 0:23:37 | 0:23:40 | |
Well, I will help you. Tell me what the bearing is on the tor. | 0:23:40 | 0:23:43 | |
172 degrees. | 0:23:43 | 0:23:45 | |
So there is the compass, | 0:23:45 | 0:23:47 | |
so you need to move this dial around until 172 is there. | 0:23:47 | 0:23:51 | |
Keep it in your hand. | 0:23:51 | 0:23:53 | |
You have to go where the arrow is telling you to go. | 0:23:53 | 0:23:57 | |
Pat, you've given me a little clue, I think | 0:23:57 | 0:23:59 | |
-I'm meant to go in that direction. -I think you'd better! | 0:23:59 | 0:24:02 | |
'Having been nudged gently in the right direction, | 0:24:06 | 0:24:09 | |
'I now must keep my eyes open for landmarks.' | 0:24:09 | 0:24:13 | |
When we set out, I couldn't see any white chimney, | 0:24:13 | 0:24:17 | |
but, I must say, that white chimney, actually, is very obvious. | 0:24:17 | 0:24:20 | |
It is very obvious. | 0:24:20 | 0:24:21 | |
Pat, I can see the tree, so I'm putting that now to 335. | 0:24:21 | 0:24:27 | |
-Do you know, I'm getting quite... -You're getting very good at it. | 0:24:27 | 0:24:30 | |
Well, I don't know about that, but I'm getting in to it. | 0:24:30 | 0:24:33 | |
-Getting the hang of it. -And enjoying it. | 0:24:33 | 0:24:36 | |
Could you remind me, what are we looking for? | 0:24:36 | 0:24:39 | |
Yes, we're looking for an L-shaped rock, with a small holly growing in it. | 0:24:39 | 0:24:42 | |
-Right. -So we have to climb, I think. A little bit. | 0:24:42 | 0:24:45 | |
Let's climb, here we go. | 0:24:45 | 0:24:48 | |
'20 minutes later, after a lot of bracken bashing, we strike lucky.' | 0:24:48 | 0:24:54 | |
-I've found it! -Hooray! | 0:24:54 | 0:24:56 | |
A backward, L-shaped rock. | 0:24:56 | 0:24:59 | |
But finding the rock was not the point, was it, Pat? | 0:24:59 | 0:25:01 | |
It was to find the box. | 0:25:01 | 0:25:03 | |
Exactly, but the clue tells you that it's under the rock, | 0:25:03 | 0:25:06 | |
so you've got to look and see. | 0:25:06 | 0:25:09 | |
-There we have it. -Ah-ha! | 0:25:09 | 0:25:12 | |
(The moment I've been waiting for.) | 0:25:12 | 0:25:17 | |
Is it money? | 0:25:17 | 0:25:19 | |
No. | 0:25:19 | 0:25:21 | |
-MICHAEL LAUGHS -No such luck. | 0:25:21 | 0:25:24 | |
-Oh. -That's the visitors' book. | 0:25:24 | 0:25:26 | |
And a stamp... | 0:25:26 | 0:25:27 | |
..of a dog, by the look of it. What happens next? | 0:25:28 | 0:25:32 | |
Every letterboxer carries an ink pad and a book and a stamp. | 0:25:32 | 0:25:36 | |
Here is your special Great British Railway letterboxing stamp. | 0:25:36 | 0:25:41 | |
Ah, thank you. | 0:25:41 | 0:25:42 | |
'Until the 1970s, | 0:25:43 | 0:25:45 | |
'there were no more than a dozen letterboxes around Dartmoor. | 0:25:45 | 0:25:49 | |
'But in the last 40 years, it's become so popular that there are said | 0:25:49 | 0:25:53 | |
'to be over 5,000 and definitely room for one more.' | 0:25:53 | 0:25:57 | |
Pat, do you think I might create my own letterbox? | 0:25:57 | 0:26:00 | |
I think that would be a wonderful idea and I know just the spot | 0:26:00 | 0:26:03 | |
where you could do just that thing. | 0:26:03 | 0:26:06 | |
Pat, what a wizard spot. That is wonderful. | 0:26:14 | 0:26:17 | |
Absolutely perfect, it'll take your box. | 0:26:17 | 0:26:20 | |
Put my stamp inside, seal the box. | 0:26:20 | 0:26:25 | |
-Into the hole. -Yes. | 0:26:29 | 0:26:31 | |
How will people find the Great British Railway Journey's box? | 0:26:31 | 0:26:35 | |
The clue for this box will appear in the next | 0:26:35 | 0:26:38 | |
edition of the Catalogue of Dartmoor Letterboxers. | 0:26:38 | 0:26:41 | |
-They'll have to buy the book. -They will indeed. | 0:26:41 | 0:26:44 | |
The Victorians were remarkably inventive in every sphere. | 0:26:46 | 0:26:51 | |
From industry, to the arts, to how they spent their leisure time. | 0:26:53 | 0:26:58 | |
It was an age of change and progress, powered by the railways. | 0:26:58 | 0:27:02 | |
My rail journey that began in urban Birmingham has | 0:27:02 | 0:27:06 | |
ended on desolate Dartmoor, passing Jerusalem on the way. | 0:27:06 | 0:27:10 | |
It started with a whistle and, I feared, would end with a hanging. | 0:27:10 | 0:27:16 | |
Once again, my Bradshaw's has brought our island history dramatically | 0:27:16 | 0:27:20 | |
to life. | 0:27:20 | 0:27:22 | |
With all its triumphs, tragedies and treacheries. | 0:27:22 | 0:27:26 | |
Every time I step on a train, a new treasure hunt begins. | 0:27:26 | 0:27:30 | |
Next time... | 0:27:40 | 0:27:42 | |
Urgh! | 0:27:46 | 0:27:48 | |
That is a Princess Alexandra style false fringe. | 0:27:48 | 0:27:51 | |
Real human hair from the 1880s. | 0:27:51 | 0:27:55 | |
-Sounding better. -That's pretty impressive for a first attempt. | 0:27:58 | 0:28:03 | |
Got it in one! | 0:28:03 | 0:28:05 | |
1,500 townspeople threatened that, | 0:28:08 | 0:28:10 | |
if Mortimer was brought out to them, they would hang him. | 0:28:10 | 0:28:13 | |
I imagine you Sackvilles have been fairly cautious | 0:28:13 | 0:28:16 | |
about public opinion ever since. | 0:28:16 | 0:28:17 | |
Extremely! | 0:28:17 | 0:28:19 |