Dover to Lewes Great British Railway Journeys


Dover to Lewes

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For Victorian Britons,

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George Bradshaw was a household name.

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At a time when railways were new, Bradshaw's guidebook

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inspired them to take to the tracks.

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I'm using a Bradshaw's Guide, to understand

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how trains transformed Britain - its landscape,

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its industries,

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society and leisure time.

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As I crisscross the country 150 years later,

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it helps me to discover the Britain of today.

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I'm beginning a journey that will carry me the length

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of England's south coast. By the time of my guide book,

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railways had opened up its ancient forts and beaches

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to travellers of every class.

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But the English Channel remained our national moat -

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a broad defence against invasion -

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and throughout most of the 19th century,

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it was assumed that any advancing enemy would be French.

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Following my Bradshaw's Guide,

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this week, I'll be travelling the south coast from east to west.

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Starting at the closest crossing point to France,

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I'll pass through coastal defences and seaside resorts,

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wind through Thomas Hardy country,

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before ending up at the first, and last, place in England.

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Today, I'm starting in the cross-Channel port of Dover.

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From there, I travel to Hythe, visiting its mainline in miniature,

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before heading to elegant Eastbourne.

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My journey finishes in Lewes,

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at a country house famed for its opera performances.

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On this journey,

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'inspired by a brave Victorian, I take the plunge...'

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I can't believe I'm doing this.

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..enjoy the exhilaration of steam...

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At the moment, we are doing 18mph.

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It's, basically, the equivalent of doing 75 on the mainline,

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-cos we're nearer to the ground.

-Yeah, it absolutely creates

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the illusion of great speed. It's very exciting!

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..and scale the heights of the operatic world.

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HE SINGS AN ERRATIC SCALE

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-But you skipped the highest note!

-Oh, did I?

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My first stop will be Dover. Bradshaw's says,

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"It is divided from the French coast by a passage of only 20 miles.

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"Advantageously situated on the margin of a picturesque bay,

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"screened by its lofty cliffs from the piercing northerly winds."

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Those famous white cliffs, another formidable natural defence,

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would also have been a welcome sight to travellers completing

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the Channel crossing, having survived its notorious tides and currents.

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The South Eastern Railway Company opened a line

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from London to Dover in 1844,

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connecting Victorian travellers with the ferries steaming for France.

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The town once had a number of stations,

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but only Dover Priory remains.

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The port of Dover, as the closest crossing point to the Continent,

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gives access to Britain's nearest European neighbour

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and, equally, represented the first point of defence.

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The English Channel is one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world.

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On a glorious day like today, you can see why Bradshaw's would talk about

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"The weather-beaten features of the cliffs of Albion,

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"illuminated with sunny smiles of welcome".

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And in 1875, Dover gave a welcome to a man who, by his endurance

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and bravery, could be regarded only as a hero.

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As the trains made seaside resorts like Dover accessible,

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swimming, very slowly, became more popular.

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The epic achievement at Dover of one very determined man

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transformed Victorian attitudes.

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I am meeting local historian Jon Iveson,

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to find out about Captain Matthew Webb.

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What was it that Captain Matthew Webb had done, that made him a hero?

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He was the first person to swim the Channel.

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And how long had that taken him, in those days?

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It was just under 22 hours. 21 and three-quarter hours.

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-An extraordinary achievement of endurance.

-Absolutely, yes.

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He believed, when he started, that he was going to do it in 14,

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but the tides were against him.

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Born in Dawley, Shropshire, Captain Webb had been a merchant seaman

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since the age of 12. At the time of his heroic swim,

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he was 27 and already had a history of courageous watery endeavours.

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In 1873, he was second mate on the steamship The Russia.

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A man fell overboard

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and he jumped off the ship, to try and rescue him.

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As a result, he was the first winner of the Royal Humane Society

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gold medal for rescuing people.

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That, Webb says, was the luckiest thing that ever happened to him,

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because it allowed him to consider something he had been thinking about

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for a while, which was trying to swim the Channel.

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On 24 August, 1875, greased with porpoise oil,

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Captain Webb got under way from Dover,

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with a steady breaststroke of 20 to the minute.

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Because of the strong tides, he ended up swimming a course

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of 39 miles.

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After 21 hours and 45 minutes in the cold water,

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he arrived in Calais, to an ecstatic welcome.

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His fame spread very rapidly and souvenirs and pictures of him

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appeared everywhere and he wrote a book.

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This is the book he wrote - a first edition of The Art Of Swimming.

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Oh, what a beautiful thing.

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"By Captain Webb, the Channel swimmer."

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And here he is with his medals, as well. That's a fantastic piece.

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Did all this - the Channel swim and the book -

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-have an effect on the popularity of swimming?

-Yes, it did.

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English swimming moved on in leaps and bounds after this.

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His remarkable feat popularised swimming, but his achievement

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wasn't matched for another 36 years

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and, even today, fewer than 2,000 have succeeded.

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More people have climbed Mount Everest.

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All that talk of the heroism of Captain Matthew Webb

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has stimulated me to have a go.

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Whilst I'm not about to swim to France, I can receive

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a few pointers from Chloe McCardel,

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an Australian who is very familiar

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with this infamous stretch of water.

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-How often have you swum the Channel?

-Ten times now.

-Absolutely amazing.

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-How long does it take you?

-Usually in the low nine hours.

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It took Captain Matthew Webb nearly 22 hours.

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Any idea what the change has been? Are you just better swimmers?

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He swam it breaststroke, for example.

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I swim it front crawl, or freestyle, which is a much faster stroke,

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and the food that we eat, the nutrition, is much more developed

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these days. He drank whisky, of all things, while crossing the Channel.

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So, what makes a person like you want to do this?

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Captain Matthew Webb himself coined the term "nothing great is easy"

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and it's got that mystique, the history and it's just probably

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the hardest marathon swim one could challenge oneself to do.

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With Webb's mantra ringing in my ears

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and facing a water temperature of just 16 degrees,

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I can't put it off any longer.

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I'm going to have to go in.

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I can't believe I'm doing this.

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-How do you feel?

-HIGH-PITCHED: Cold!

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Very cold.

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You're doing well, though. Keep going.

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-Show me your crawl.

-OK. I'm going to put my head down, though.

-Yeah.

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Chloe, what's it like when you get cold,

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when you've been swimming for a long time?

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Your core temperature drops, so your organs start getting cold,

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your arms might start doing funny things,

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you might say strange things, you may even refuse

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to get out of the water if you're very hypothermic.

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I don't think I'd refuse to get out of the water.

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-You OK?

-Yup.

-Do you want a hand?

-Yup.

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Wow, I'm glad to be back on board.

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It's one of the most beautiful places you can have imagine to have a swim,

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by the white cliffs, but I found it incredibly cold.

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-I'm very overwhelmed.

-Yes, it takes many months to get used to that cold

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so you did very well for your first time.

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-Thank you, Chloe. Good luck to you.

-Thanks.

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Very thankful to be back on firm ground, and warm on the train,

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as I leave Dover heading west, I'm reminded by my guidebook

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"to pay attention to the shrill shriek of the whistle"

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as we plunge into the chalky tunnels

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connecting Dover to Folkestone and beyond.

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I shall be leaving this train at Westenhanger for Hythe.

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Bradshaw's says, "The town of Hythe is small but clean and healthy,

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"and prettily situated at the foot of a hill extending down to the sea."

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It sounds divine.

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From Westenhanger I make my way to Hythe,

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still a small market town as pretty as Bradshaw's described it.

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Before going to my next destination

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I'm visiting a church that has piqued my interest.

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Bradshaw's tells me that

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"the church on the hill has a light tower ornamented by four turrets"

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and I've been attracted up the slope towards it, as to a beacon.

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This is the most macabre sight.

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Everywhere I look there are skulls,

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thigh bones, leg bones, arm bones, jaws -

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it's as though I've stumbled upon the site of an appalling massacre.

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A shock because nothing in Bradshaw's prepared me for it.

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I hope that local researcher Mike Pearson can shed more light.

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-Mike, hello.

-Hi, Michael.

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Welcome to the crypt of St Leonard's Church, Hythe.

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It looks like a charnel house or something.

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-Is it actually the result of a slaughter?

-No, it's not, actually.

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There were various theories on...

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Danes killed in battle, even Battle of Hastings people,

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but we've done some research - it's actually a normal population.

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There are more females in this collection than there are males

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and there are just under 10% young people

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so it's actually a cross section of the population dying,

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-we think, normally.

-How many heads do you have here?

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We've got 1,200 skulls but it's said that there are 8,000 long bones

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and that amounts to 4,000 individuals.

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-Are you adding to the collection? LAUGHING:

-No, not at all!

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But we do have visitors from time to time who say,

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"Can I reserve a place for when I go?"

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THEY LAUGH

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Keeping my head when all around have lost theirs,

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my next stop is curiouser and curiouser.

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I often enthuse about stations,

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and this one is absolutely beautiful

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but somehow it's shrunk, it's not at the right size!

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As though entering a wonderland,

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I've arrived at the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway.

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Opened in 1927, it's a fully working steam railway one third of full size.

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Today it's owned by Danny Martin.

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-Danny, hello.

-Hello. Nice to see you.

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How did it come to be, then, that the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch railway

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was built miniature?

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Well, the guys that built it had a passion for model engineering

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which, you might say, trains of this sort of size

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and then they wanted to outdo everyone else so they wanted

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the biggest model engineered railway that money could buy.

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This railway wasn't open in Bradshaw's day

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but the locomotives here hark back to the age of steam.

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Has it ever had a serious purpose?

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Yes, it has. During the war years,

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the Royal Engineers commandeered the railway, they ran an armoured train

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and, most importantly of all,

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they were constructing PLUTO - Pipeline Under The Ocean -

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and that was used to feed the D-Day landings

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and it was dragged out nightly, having been wound up on our railway.

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-Fantastic story. So is there a train I can take?

-There is, certainly,

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this one we've got just here.

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Super. Thank you very much.

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Taking me on my journey is professional train driver

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Mick Knight.

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-Hello, Mick.

-Hello.

-Permission to come aboard?

-Oh, permission granted.

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Thank you very much indeed.

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Nice tight fit, isn't it?

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Just slip the latch down and that's it.

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-But unlike most locomotives you get to sit down.

-You do.

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WHISTLE BLOWS

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The line runs 13.5 miles from Hythe to Dungeness.

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WHISTLE BLOWS

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This locomotive, though very small, must be very powerful.

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-How many people can you carry?

-Each train holds about 200-250 people.

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It's the equivalent of about 40-45 tonnes.

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At the moment we're doing 18mph.

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It's basically the equivalent of doing 75 on the main line

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because were nearer to the ground.

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It absolutely creates the illusion of great speed. It's very exciting.

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With half the journey completed, Mick thinks it's time for me to have a go,

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so from Romney Marsh station I'll take over the controls

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to complete the journey to Dungeness.

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-That feels good, doesn't it?

-There we go.

-That feels good.

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Amazing to me that a little pull on that lever

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brings all this power into play.

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So, on your left-hand side shortly you'll see a W sign.

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-Yes, and then I whistle.

-Yep, give a toot for them.

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I see a whistle board.

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WHISTLE BLOWS

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And we pass a level crossing.

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What a wonderful experience. What a feeling of speed and of power

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and responsibility.

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-Thank you very much, Mick.

-That's OK. Well done.

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Well done, we'll make a driver out of you yet.

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My journey continues from Appledore

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where I'm re-joining the main line crossing from Kent into Sussex.

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I'm going to spend the night in Rye.

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Bradshaw's tells me that,

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"In the reign of King Edward III,

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"Rye sent nine armed vessels to the royal fleet

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"when that Monarch invaded France."

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It was one of the so-called Cinque Ports

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that supplied ships to the king.

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And in return they received many privileges and a lot of autonomy.

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I bet the people of Rye still feel very proud of that royal history.

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Between the 11th and 16th centuries Rye was a port surrounded by sea

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but after centuries of storms and silting,

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the coastline is now three miles away.

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One of Rye's most charming buildings survives from its Tudor heyday,

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The Mermaid Inn.

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Built in the 15th century it was the infamous haunt of smuggling gangs

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but today it offers my bed for the night.

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Ship-shape and ready to go, I'm heading out of Rye.

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The next leg of my travels is a 45-minute journey

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along the coastline to an important resort in East Sussex.

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My next stop will be Eastbourne.

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My guidebook tells me that, "It has within a very few years

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"become fashionable as a watering place

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"and offers the beauty of country scenery

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"and stately trees close to the sea."

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At the time of my Bradshaw's guide

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there was a corner of the county of Sussex

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that became forever Devonshire.

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The 7th Duke of Devonshire owned much of the land

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on which the small town of Eastbourne stood.

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The Victorian vogue for seaside holidays offered him an opportunity.

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He campaigned for a railway to Eastbourne

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and after it opened in 1849 he developed a high-class resort.

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He employed architect Henry Currey to fulfil his grand designs.

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I'm meeting an architect and local historian, Richard Crook,

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by Currey's Winter Garden.

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-Richard.

-Good morning.

-Very good to see you.

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What was the character of the Eastbourne that he wanted?

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Well, Henry Currey had been on the grand tour of Europe as a student.

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He loved Italian architecture

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and in particular the architecture of Venice.

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So we get this wonderful Italianate feel to the town centre.

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And he wanted it to be a very high-class resort.

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A town built by a gentleman for gentlemen.

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But presumably the town did have a working class population?

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Oh, yes, it did. Eastbourne was quite fortunately placed

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for a zoning of the resort.

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And there's a nice phrase that came down that's been quoted -

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"Don't go east of the pier, my dear."

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And the idea was that the pier was the cut-off point

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from the high-class hotels from the boarding houses and the laundries

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and the service industries,

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which were in the east end of town on the lower lying marshy areas.

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Currey's Queen's Hotel is set forward as a visual and geographical barrier

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between the two zones, building the class divide into the town's fabric.

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Henry Currey also designed a three-tiered promenade

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running the length of the bay,

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which perpetuated the resort's class consciousness.

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The local paper of the day pointed out the fact that it took on

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an unwritten social status about which level you were walking on,

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and it actually quoted that the promenaders on the upper level

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would look down like true born hidalgos on the motley crowd

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of nondescripts sauntering along the lower parade.

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Extraordinary Victorian snobbery.

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One thing that Currey omitted from his town plan was an opera house

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because opera was mainly confined to a short season in the capital.

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All the more remarkable that in the 1930s a highly successful opera house

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opened remote from any metropolitan population.

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Bradshaw's tells me that the station at Glynde is just half a mile

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from the village of Glyndebourne.

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But I've decided to leave this train at Lewes and I'm dressing

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because I believe I may be able to blend in with the crowd scene there.

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OPERA MUSIC PLAYS

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Lewes is the rail gateway to the Glyndebourne Opera Festival.

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As an opera lover I'm a frequent visitor

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and coming by train is part of the experience.

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From the station a complimentary bus service whisks us to the theatre.

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-Do you feel excited to be going to Glyndebourne?

-Very much so.

-Yeah?

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-Yeah.

-Absolutely. I've never done something like that before

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and it sounds like a lot of fun.

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-Where are you guys from?

-I'm from the Czech republic.

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-I'm from Belarus.

-Oh, I hope you have a wonderful time.

0:22:480:22:50

-Enjoy the show.

-Thank you.

0:22:500:22:51

OPERA MUSIC PLAYS

0:22:510:22:56

This really is the most British scene -

0:22:580:23:01

people dressed up to the nines in the heat of the summer,

0:23:010:23:05

bearing great burdens, their picnics,

0:23:050:23:08

but they're going to have a really British experience -

0:23:080:23:12

opera and picnic and champagne.

0:23:120:23:16

Hello, everybody. How are you enjoying your picnic, may I ask?

0:23:160:23:18

-We're just about to start.

-You look as if you're very well prepared.

0:23:180:23:22

How many courses are you serving today?

0:23:220:23:24

Well, we're going to have lunch now

0:23:240:23:26

and then we'll have our three courses in the long interval.

0:23:260:23:30

Have a wonderful day. By the way, there's an opera as well.

0:23:300:23:32

THEY LAUGH

0:23:320:23:34

-Now, how important is the opera to you?

-It's extremely important.

0:23:340:23:37

-Far more than the picnic.

-Oh, I don't know!

0:23:370:23:39

THEY LAUGH

0:23:390:23:41

I suppose it would go opera, champagne, picnic.

0:23:410:23:44

I hope you all enjoy a wonderful performance

0:23:440:23:47

and that your picnic will be extremely successful.

0:23:470:23:50

-ALL:

-Cheers!

0:23:500:23:52

The Glyndebourne opera season

0:23:520:23:55

dominates the house all through the summer

0:23:550:23:57

and yet it remains the family home of Gus Christie.

0:23:570:24:01

-Gus, lovely to see you.

-Very nice to see you, Michael.

0:24:010:24:05

My Bradshaw's refers to Glynde Place which is a different house, I think,

0:24:050:24:10

belonging to J Langham. Is there any connection with you?

0:24:100:24:13

Yes, they were cousins of ours.

0:24:130:24:16

Glyndebourne came into our family around the 1830s.

0:24:160:24:20

And whose idea was it to attach to this lovely house an opera house?

0:24:200:24:24

My grandfather was mad about opera, so he actually built this room,

0:24:240:24:29

initially, in the '20s,

0:24:290:24:31

and they would stage scenes from operas and a few professionals

0:24:310:24:35

he'd get in, one of whom was my grandmother.

0:24:350:24:37

And then he wanted to extend this room make it bigger but she said,

0:24:370:24:42

"If you're going to spend all that money,

0:24:420:24:44

"for God's sake do the thing properly."

0:24:440:24:46

So he built her an opera house in the garden. Right from the beginning

0:24:460:24:49

my grandfather set the quality bar extremely high.

0:24:490:24:52

His motto was not the best that we can do

0:24:520:24:55

but the best that can be done anywhere.

0:24:550:24:57

Which is a very high bar to set

0:24:570:25:00

and we still aspire to that same level nowadays.

0:25:000:25:03

I'm lucky enough to be invited behind the scenes

0:25:040:25:07

to meet one of tonight's stars, Edgaras Montvidas.

0:25:070:25:11

Edgaras.

0:25:120:25:14

-Hello, Michael.

-Good to see you.

0:25:140:25:16

I spotted you on the train.

0:25:160:25:18

Not many people would think of a great opera star

0:25:180:25:21

coming down to the opera house by train, is that a regular thing?

0:25:210:25:24

-Absolutely, yes.

-Now, you have to perform this afternoon.

0:25:240:25:27

You were doing your warm-up, do you mind if I stay for a second

0:25:270:25:30

-while you continue?

-Not at all.

-What were you doing?

0:25:300:25:33

I would normally sing a couple of exercises.

0:25:330:25:37

You must be baritone and so I'll do it a bit lower.

0:25:370:25:40

HE SINGS SCALES

0:25:410:25:47

Michael?

0:25:470:25:48

HE SINGS SCALES

0:25:480:25:52

-But you skipped the highest note!

-Oh, did I?

0:25:520:25:55

HE SINGS SCALES

0:25:550:26:00

HE SINGS SCALES

0:26:000:26:02

HE SQUEAKS AT HIGH NOTES

0:26:020:26:04

That's why I skipped the high ones.

0:26:040:26:06

-Well, a few lessons wouldn't harm!

-THEY LAUGH

0:26:060:26:09

-Let's hear a piece from the opera.

-OK.

0:26:090:26:11

HE SINGS OPERATICALLY

0:26:130:26:17

-That's higher than...

-Beautiful.

0:26:350:26:38

I just want to wish you a fantastic performance

0:26:380:26:40

and many happy years at Glyndebourne.

0:26:400:26:42

-Thank you very much.

-Thank you very much.

0:26:420:26:45

The production is Mozart's Die Entfuhrung Aus Dem Serail,

0:26:450:26:49

in a performance which demonstrates

0:26:490:26:51

that the highest standards are being maintained.

0:26:510:26:54

And it brings today's journey to a close.

0:26:540:26:56

OPERA MUSIC PLAYS

0:26:560:27:01

MUSIC AND SINGING ENDS

0:27:050:27:07

APPLAUSE

0:27:070:27:12

The Duke of Devonshire created in Eastbourne

0:27:120:27:15

the ideal of a high-class seaside resort.

0:27:150:27:19

Similar attention to detail went into the ultimate model railway

0:27:190:27:23

running between Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch.

0:27:230:27:26

The opera at Glyndebourne has prospered against the odds

0:27:260:27:30

because of an uncompromising commitment to excellence

0:27:300:27:34

and I want to pay tribute to Captain Matthew Webb,

0:27:340:27:37

a Victorian hero whose motto was "nothing great is easy"

0:27:370:27:41

and who endured 22 hours in the English Channel.

0:27:410:27:44

Whereas I found it difficult to survive for ten minutes.

0:27:440:27:48

Next time, I marvel at exquisite railway engineering...

0:27:500:27:54

That is an extraordinary view,

0:27:540:27:55

almost as though we were in a gothic cathedral or something.

0:27:550:27:58

..take my pick in a temple of red fruit...

0:27:580:28:01

All aboard for the Tomato Express!

0:28:010:28:04

-Another go?

-Yeah.

0:28:060:28:07

..and test my patience against the southerly wind.

0:28:070:28:11

If at first you don't succeed...

0:28:110:28:13

-try, try again.

-That's the mantra of kite flying if ever there was one.

0:28:130:28:18

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