Green Imagined Land Ian Hislop's Olden Days


Green Imagined Land

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'What's the most important date in British history?

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'1066 - the Battle of Hastings?

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'1666 - the Great Fire of London?

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'1966 then - England win the World Cup?

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'What about 1851? Ring any bells? No?

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'That's because it's one of the most overlooked

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'but most significant moments of all.'

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This is the summary of the 1851 census -

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one of those great Victorian state-of-the-nation surveys.

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And all the figures here relate to the number of people

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living in towns and cities

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as against those living in what it calls "the country parts".

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And the important figure is the figure at the top here,

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the totals for England and Wales.

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The number of people living in the country - 8,936,800.

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The number living in towns and cities - 8,990,809.

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So, by a very small margin - about 50,000 or so -

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there are more urban dwellers than rural dwellers.

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1851 was a tipping point - the first time ever that a major nation

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had become a predominantly urban nation.

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And that changed everything - not just where we lived,

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but how we lived, what jobs we did, what we thought of ourselves and,

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most significantly, what we thought about the home that the majority

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of us had just left and to which we would not return -

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the countryside.

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From that point on, a deeply-felt

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but essentially nostalgic rural vision took hold.

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The countryside increasingly became a refuge from troubling realities -

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like national decline, world war and even our own mortality.

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What we looked for in the countryside was often fanciful,

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even downright eccentric.

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But these rural reimaginings acted as a creative catalyst,

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inspiring some of our most powerful art and best-loved literature.

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The idealised vision of the countryside which emerged

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in the 19th century had far more to do with what was going on

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in the hearts and minds of the exiled and harassed city dwellers

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than anything that was actually going on out in the shires.

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But this romantic view of an unspoilt Arcadia -

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a green and pleasant land - seized the Victorian imagination

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and has dominated ours ever since.

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Each generation has looked to the countryside for different reasons -

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inspiration, consolation, or escape.

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Whilst the city propels us into an uncertain future,

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these green, unspoilt places take our hand and lead us back

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to a simpler, more stable past.

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So, where can we find the "olden days"?

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Right here.

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MUFFLED TANNOY ANNOUNCEMENT

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'In 1862, one of Britain's leading artists decided to

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'escape from the city.

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'Myles Birket Foster came from a family which ran

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'one of the biggest beer-bottling companies in the world.

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'But he had more highbrow ambitions

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'and abandoned the family business for the life of an artist.

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'The railway now reached deep into the Home Counties,

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'and it was Surrey which was to become Birket Foster's muse.

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'He understood what city-dwellers needed -

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'a green balm for their weary souls.'

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This is the Merry Harriers in the village of Hambledon.

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Birket Foster's painting of the pub is one of his best-known works.

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In the 19th century, Birket Foster was huge.

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He was so popular that when Queen Victoria tried to buy a picture

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she liked at an exhibition,

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she found it was already sold, and the buyer refused to part with it.

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She loved this stuff, and so did everybody else.

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And what the Victorians really went for was an idealised,

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sentimentalised vision of the countryside.

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This is a classic Birket Foster, it's called The Country Inn,

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and it was painted in 1863,

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but it's already set in a receding, "olden days" past.

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And all the Birket Foster cliches are here - the blue sky,

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the sunshine - it's always summer in the village -

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and everyone there is happy and relaxed and well fed.

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Even the animals are well fed, the horses, the ducks,

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the chickens, the pigs.

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Interestingly, there is not a hint of modernity in the picture -

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the artist has even taken out the road that actually

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runs in front of the pub. So, there are no trains, there are no

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new-fangled steam engines, nothing to disturb the peace

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and tranquillity that the harassed Victorian city dwellers craved.

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Birket Foster's paintings, with their antiquated haywains

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and apple-cheeked maids, were the latest expression of a very

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ancient idea in art and literature - the pastoral.

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The point of the pastoral was to use the countryside to highlight

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the evils of city living.

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A rural utopia was contrasted with

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an urban cess-pit of misery and vice.

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But life out in the sticks wasn't exactly a bed of roses.

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The tension between illusion and reality can be seen clearly

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in Oakhurst Cottage in Hambledon -

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a place Birket Foster painted again and again.

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From the census of 1851, we know a little about the family that

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lived in this cottage - the Nalders.

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The head of the household was William, with his wife, Ann,

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and his three children, William, Eliza, and Harriet.

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William was a labourer, and we know from farm records that at one point

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in 1851 he earned eight shillings from tying truss straws,

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which means tying up bundles of hay.

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At another point, in 1852, he earned one shilling and four pence for

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rinsing bark - cleaning oak bark for use in local tanning yards.

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It looks like he was a seasonal worker, which meant that he

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was paid piecemeal, and in bad times not at all.

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Many labourers and their families ended up in the dreaded workhouse.

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It was a hard life, and sometimes a harsh one,

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certainly one that was difficult to square

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with Birket Foster's bucolic idyll.

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Occasionally, even Birket Foster had to acknowledge reality.

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Engravings of his paintings were used to illustrate

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poems by Tom Taylor - a writer and editor of Punch magazine.

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"The cottage-homes of England! Yes, I know

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"How picturesque their moss and weather-stain,

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"All these I know - know, too, the plagues that prey

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"On those who dwell in these bepainted bowers:

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"The foul miasma of their crowded rooms."

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In his poem, Tom Taylor was claiming that thatched cottages

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were in fact rural slums.

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For once, Birket Foster's illustrations seemed

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to confront this poverty.

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The thatch on the cottages was unkempt.

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In place of pretty young girls, there was a decrepit older woman.

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There was even a scythe - a symbol of death and decay.

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Birket Foster's Old Cottages illustrations proved

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a fleeting brush with reality.

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For the rest of his career, he kept up the fiction of a rural Arcadia.

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The public lapped it up,

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and rose-tinted images of the countryside

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produced by Birket Foster and countless imitators

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have been reproduced on calendars, Christmas cards, chocolate boxes

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and coasters ever since.

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But when Birket Foster died in 1899,

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the Times obituary was a bit more sniffy.

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It said, "From 1860 until the day of his death,

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"his style never varied,

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"his eye saw everything under the same convention -

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"an exquisitely pretty convention, but one remote from all

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"but the superficial and idyllic aspects of nature."

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By the end of the 19th century, the real countryside was in crisis,

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blighted by disease, failed harvests and, above all,

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cheap imports which ruined many farmers.

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People left their villages in increasing numbers.

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Farmland turned to waste.

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There was a growing feeling that the natural world itself

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was under threat.

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It was against this backdrop

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that a band of mainly urban and middle class do-gooders launched

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the modern conservation movement.

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A host of different organisations emerged,

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all dedicated to preserving the rural "olden days"

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in its many forms.

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Some battled to save Britain's wildest and most beautiful places.

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Bird-lovers turned their attention to our most threatened breeds.

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Others wanted to conserve not just the countryside,

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but its ancient architectural treasures.

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And then there were those who were determined to rescue

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the culture of the English peasantry itself.

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The man who spearheaded the folk music revival was the all-singing,

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all-dancing musician Cecil Sharp - known, of course, as C Sharp.

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By the early 20th century,

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continental composers dominated the classical scene.

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But Sharp was a fierce patriot.

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He longed for tunes which would express the genius of the English.

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ACCORDIAN MUSIC PLAYS

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In 1903, he heard the song which would inspire

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a home-grown musical revolution.

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He was staying with his friend, Charles Marson,

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who was the vicar of Hambridge in Somerset.

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And the story goes he heard the gardener,

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a man called John England - what a wonderful name for a folk

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singer to have - singing a song called The Seeds of Love.

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# I sowed the seeds of love

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# And I sowed them in the spring

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# I gathered them up in the morning so soon

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# While the small birds do sweetly sing

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# While the small birds do sweetly sing. #

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And that day he took the song down, he arranged it,

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then he performed it with a piano that night.

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And that was really the turning point, in a way,

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because it initiated a period of tremendous activity.

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Between that period and his death, in 1924,

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he collected about 5,000 pieces.

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# One morning in the month of June

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# Down by a rolling river... #

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You might expect sentimental conservatives to get misty-eyed

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about this stuff, but Sharp was very different.

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He was an austere intellectual, a vegetarian and a socialist.

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# Her cheeks were red, her eyes were brown... #

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For him, folk music was the soundtrack

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to more egalitarian times.

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Sharp believed "peasant songs",

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as he called them without a hint of self-consciousness,

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could inspire social change in his own deeply divided age.

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To find these authentic "peasant songs",

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Sharp travelled round the country,

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seeking out remote villages, supposedly untouched by modernity.

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# How came you here so early... #

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Sharp's insistence on the purity of his collection of folk songs

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was potentially problematic, because most of the people from whom

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he collected the songs had little idea where they'd got them from.

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Sharp couldn't be sure of the age of the song,

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which particular village it came from, or even if it was a genuinely

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rural song or one borrowed from the city and then recycled later.

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Because after 100 years of industrialisation,

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urbanisation and the spread of the railways, it was open to

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question whether an uncontaminated rural culture still existed.

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Perhaps the only place you could be certain of finding

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an unspoilt English peasant singing his bucolic ballad handed

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down from generation to generation was in Sharp's own imagination.

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Sharp and his friends are going out

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to find this authentic music of old England.

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What's happening in the modern England at the time?

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The days of the Great Exhibition are behind us.

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Germany and America are overtaking Britain.

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You know, there's social problems.

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When it comes to the Boer War, for example, you've got

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loads of people just unfit to serve because they're not physically fit.

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So you've got this whole notion of someone going into the towns

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and the race deteriorating in the towns.

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A lot of people are worried about the sort of society

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that's been created by urbanisation and industrialism.

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So there's a sense in which you can see this folk song/folk dance

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movement as somehow an attempt to ameliorate that,

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to give something back to the urban society

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that's been lost from the rural society.

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Quite idealistic, but nevertheless something people felt.

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Ultimately he believes that it's going to be the material

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for a sort of cultural regeneration of the country,

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-we're all going to sing these songs and...

-Dance these dances.

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..dance these dances and, you know, it's going to do us good.

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# I had not the liberty to choose for myself

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# Of the flowers that I should wear... #

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Urban Britain fell in love with Sharp's rediscoveries

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and by the early 20th century,

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the country was in the grip of a huge folk music revival.

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Sharp's programme of national regeneration

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was about to receive a huge boost.

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# There was a frog lived in a well

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# Whipsee diddledee dandy dee... #

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In 1906, The National Song Book

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was published for use in elementary schools.

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The Board of Education had decided that folk music was henceforth

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to be included in the curriculum.

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Schoolchildren, including myself,

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were still being taught these folk songs as late as the 1960s.

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The folk revival wasn't just a British phenomenon.

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Other European countries also looked to the rural past

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for the things which they felt made them unique.

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All this dressing up looked harmless enough,

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but it was one sign of a spirit of aggressive nationalism

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which contributed to the outbreak of war in 1914.

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In Britain, the countryside proved to be a potent recruitment tool.

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More than 12 million posters were issued in the first two years

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of the war, and many featured heart-warming vistas.

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An idealised landscape of rolling hills and thatched cottages

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reminded people of what was at stake.

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This rural propaganda worked, even though many recruits

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had never seen a thatched cottage in their lives.

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No matter, this was the heart and soul of the whole nation,

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and even kilted Highlanders agreed!

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The landscape of the Western Front was very different.

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Traumatised soldiers couldn't have felt further from home.

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No wonder the "olden days" looked appealing by comparison.

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FOLK MUSIC PLAYS

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One of Cecil Sharp's legacies, alongside the revival of folk music,

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was the rediscovery of folk dance.

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Sharp had become a world expert.

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Here he is in a film from 1912,

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cutting a caper in his three-piece suit, although his half-poussettes

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and hands-four weren't always perfectly executed.

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For its aficionados, Morris dancing was the artistic

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expression of what was known as Merrie England -

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a mythical medieval golden age when life was a lot jollier.

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For people disturbed by the tragic unravelling of the 20th century,

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Merrie England was a symbol of everything

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that their own age wasn't.

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One of the most ardent advocates of Merrie England

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was folk dance teacher Daisy Daking,

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who was described by one contemporary as "London born,

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"deadly efficient, three feet high."

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In 1917, Miss Daking set off for northern France

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on a special assignment - to rehabilitate wounded

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and war-weary soldiers through Morris dancing.

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FOLK MUSIC PLAYS

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In Daisy Daking's mind, there was a certain amount of wishful thinking.

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She imagined that most of the soldiers were country lads,

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ploughboys in khaki, whereas, in fact,

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most of them came from towns and cities.

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They were more familiar with the music hall than the maypole.

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Their favourite songs were foreign imports,

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American hits like Down Home In Tennessee rather than traditional

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English folk songs like Jenny Pluck Pears or Gathering Peascods.

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Many of them wouldn't have known what a peascod was.

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But Daisy Daking was on a mission.

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"It is their own folk art," she said.

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"Though they may not know it, it is in their blood."

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And she was determined that they would learn to love Morris dancing.

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FOLK MUSIC CONTINUES

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The first Morris dances were not a great success -

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the men were too shy to join in.

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Miss Daking, however, had a solution...

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"Remember to dig out the Australians first,

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"as they are always ready for anything," she said.

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"Pair them off with any Scots, as these are born dancers."

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FOLK MUSIC CONTINUES

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An eyewitness described one of Daking's classes...

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"The dancers are none of them clumsy. On the contrary,

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"considering the weight of their thick-soled boots,

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"they're remarkably light on their feet.

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"The popularity of these dances is accounted for by the fact that

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"the movement and rhythm were evolved by their fathers,

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"and are native to men of their race."

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Morris dancing in the middle of a war seems ludicrous,

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and Daisy Daking was perfectly aware of this.

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She said that when she first tried to introduce it, people told her

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she was being "somewhat silly".

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There was Miss Daking telling war-weary troops that this

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dance dates back to 1650, the time of Merrie England,

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or asking them to imagine they were on a village green

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back in Blighty, rather than in a hut on the Western Front.

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But it worked.

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As a reminder of an idealised home,

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as a wholesome communal activity, or just as a distraction

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from the horrors of war, Morris dancing caught on.

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And the soldiers were very grateful.

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Here's a beautiful tribute to Daisy Daking from some of those who

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had taken part.

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It says, "To Daisy Daking, from friends who keenly appreciate your

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"successful efforts to arouse deep interest in English folk dancing."

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And then there's a list of names - the Atkinsons, the Donnellys,

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the Flemings, the Mackintoshes,

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the Robertsons, so it goes on.

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At one stage, 100 men a day were passing through her classes, and

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these are men who were suffering from shell-shock and depression.

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Her verdict on the effect she could have was typically modest.

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She said, "We got the grey look off their faces."

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During the Great War, the countryside was a place of

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psychological refuge for soldiers.

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So, when the troops returned home,

0:24:170:24:19

it was a cleaner, greener future that they longed for.

0:24:190:24:23

What many of them aspired to was a home in the leafy suburbs.

0:24:260:24:30

To accommodate their dreams,

0:24:300:24:32

the biggest house-building programme in British history began.

0:24:320:24:37

Birmingham's experience was typical of what happened to many cities.

0:24:370:24:41

Between the wars, more than a 100,000 homes were built there.

0:24:410:24:46

But for a new suburban utopia to be born, an old, rural one had to die.

0:24:460:24:52

For the writer JRR Tolkien, nowhere was more beloved than Sarehole.

0:24:590:25:04

In the early 20th century,

0:25:050:25:07

it was a village several miles outside Birmingham.

0:25:070:25:10

Tolkien dramatised the fate which befell Sarehole -

0:25:100:25:14

the story of this Warwickshire village spawned

0:25:140:25:18

one of the most successful literary and film franchises of all time.

0:25:180:25:23

Tolkien was born in South Africa in 1892.

0:25:290:25:33

He arrived in Sarehole on a family holiday when he was three years old.

0:25:330:25:37

But after the sudden death of his father,

0:25:370:25:40

the family settled in the village.

0:25:400:25:42

The character and virtues of the stout-hearted Warwickshire

0:25:430:25:47

country folk left a lasting impression.

0:25:470:25:50

"I was brought up in considerable poverty,

0:25:500:25:53

"but I was happy running about in that country," Tolkien wrote.

0:25:530:25:57

"I took the idea of the Hobbits from the village people and children."

0:25:570:26:01

METALLIC WHIRRING

0:26:030:26:06

In the middle of Sarehole was an old mill.

0:26:110:26:14

Tolkien and his younger brother were fascinated by it,

0:26:140:26:18

and would sneak in to watch the wheels turn.

0:26:180:26:21

Tolkien nicknamed the grumpy miller "the white ogre"

0:26:240:26:28

because he was often covered in what appeared to be flour.

0:26:280:26:31

Tolkien only lived here for four years, but he called it

0:26:350:26:39

"the longest-seeming and most formative part of my life."

0:26:390:26:43

Sarehole became emblematic of everything about England

0:26:430:26:46

that the child had fallen in love with.

0:26:460:26:49

He described it as a sort of "lost paradise".

0:26:490:26:53

'In 1904, this idyllic childhood was cut short

0:26:570:27:01

'when Tolkien's mother died.

0:27:010:27:03

'He was 12 years old and an orphan.

0:27:030:27:06

'He had to leave Sarehole

0:27:080:27:11

'and move into a succession of grim boarding houses in Birmingham.

0:27:110:27:14

'Tolkien didn't return for many years,

0:27:240:27:26

'and when he did he was devastated.'

0:27:260:27:29

In his diary, he wrote...

0:27:320:27:35

"Where the Bluebell Lane ran down into the Mill Lane,

0:27:350:27:37

"is now a dangerous crossing alive with motors and red lights.

0:27:370:27:43

"How I envy those whose precious early scenery has not been

0:27:430:27:47

"exposed to such violent and peculiarly hideous change."

0:27:470:27:51

Tolkien cautioned against reading messages into his novels,

0:27:550:27:59

but it's almost impossible not to see allusions

0:27:590:28:02

to the land of his lost youth.

0:28:020:28:04

At the heart of The Hobbit and The Lord Of The Rings is the Shire -

0:28:080:28:12

a haven of rural contentment reminiscent of Sarehole.

0:28:120:28:16

Threatening it is Mordor -

0:28:160:28:19

a wasteland of furnaces and factories -

0:28:190:28:22

Birmingham by any other name.

0:28:220:28:24

Life is often more complex than myth, and the actual history

0:28:280:28:32

of Tolkien's beloved mill is less romantic than he painted it.

0:28:320:28:36

The white powder he remembered covering the miller may not

0:28:360:28:40

necessarily have been flour from corn.

0:28:400:28:43

The mill was much used at the time for grinding animal bones

0:28:430:28:46

to make fertiliser.

0:28:460:28:48

Before that, in the 19th century, the natural power of the water-wheel

0:28:480:28:52

was supplemented by an industrial steam engine.

0:28:520:28:56

And before that, in the mid-18th century,

0:28:560:28:58

the mill was used as a metal bashing shop, set up by Matthew Boulton -

0:28:580:29:03

one of the fathers of the Industrial Revolution.

0:29:030:29:06

So, for much of its working life, the mill that inspired

0:29:060:29:09

the olden days Shire was, in fact, an outpost of modernising Mordor.

0:29:090:29:15

By the mid-1930s, Mordor was marching right across

0:29:230:29:27

the British countryside.

0:29:270:29:29

Pylons sprang up across the shires.

0:29:310:29:33

An expanding road network criss-crossed the nation.

0:29:350:29:39

Vehicles swarmed up hill and down dale.

0:29:390:29:43

With the advent of modernity in the shape of the motor car,

0:29:470:29:50

might the rural "olden days" finally become irrelevant?

0:29:500:29:55

In the 1930s, automobiles offered independence, freedom and adventure.

0:30:050:30:11

The increasingly large number of people taking to the roads

0:30:110:30:15

were part of a new generation of more affluent suburbanites,

0:30:150:30:19

easily mocked because of their comfortable lifestyles

0:30:190:30:22

and bland tastes, but actually hankering for something more

0:30:220:30:27

exciting and more adventurous than the golf course or the tennis club.

0:30:270:30:32

These British explorers got into their new cars,

0:30:320:30:36

drove out of the present, and into the past.

0:30:360:30:40

Motoring guides were published to direct

0:30:480:30:50

the wanderlust of the mobile middle classes.

0:30:500:30:53

The most famous were The Shell Guides,

0:30:530:30:56

sponsored by the Shell Oil Company.

0:30:560:30:58

The poet John Betjeman was the editor.

0:31:000:31:02

The artist John Piper wrote and illustrated a number of the guides.

0:31:020:31:07

Piper had made his name in the early 1930s

0:31:090:31:12

as one of Britain's leading avant-garde painters.

0:31:120:31:15

Having been lured to Paris,

0:31:190:31:21

Piper had fallen for abstract art and European modernism.

0:31:210:31:25

But the new modern world was now transforming the old British

0:31:260:31:30

landscape and, as it did so, Piper,

0:31:300:31:33

who was a country lad at heart, found himself increasingly attracted

0:31:330:31:37

to rural themes like manor houses and village churches.

0:31:370:31:41

Perhaps only Britain could produce an arch-modernist

0:31:430:31:46

who was in love with the "olden days".

0:31:460:31:49

In the Shell Guides, these old and new aspects

0:31:520:31:55

of Piper's artistic persona fused creatively.

0:31:550:31:59

Shell Guides didn't tell you to go and see the obvious sites,

0:32:010:32:05

so don't just go and see Salisbury Cathedral or, you know,

0:32:050:32:08

Bath Abbey, go and look at the things that are, first of all,

0:32:080:32:11

unusual and romantic, but most importantly, and you'll see it

0:32:110:32:15

all through these books, the things that are decaying and disappearing.

0:32:150:32:20

In his book - here it is, Oxfordshire by John Piper -

0:32:200:32:23

he talks about the county of magnificent ruins,

0:32:230:32:26

and that's what he really wants to show you.

0:32:260:32:29

It's all about texture, feeling.

0:32:290:32:31

It's about...it's not just about architecture itself,

0:32:310:32:34

it's about a sensibility.

0:32:340:32:35

Every page of a publication should be a surprise, said Piper,

0:32:370:32:41

said Betjeman. That's the world they belonged to and they loved.

0:32:410:32:44

One of the first images you see as you open Oxfordshire is...

0:32:440:32:48

-A wall full of dead birds.

-..a wall full of dead birds.

0:32:480:32:51

It's like something out of Hitchcock, isn't it?

0:32:510:32:53

These are obviously dead crows and rooks hung up to scare away

0:32:530:32:57

rooks and crows from destroying fields and their crops.

0:32:570:33:00

But it's the idea of an image that's meant to make you jump.

0:33:000:33:04

It's not the roses over the traditional, sweet,

0:33:040:33:08

thatched English cottage, it's dead birds.

0:33:080:33:11

Remember, these books are a meditation on things passing.

0:33:130:33:17

It's a slightly melancholy sensibility, isn't it?

0:33:170:33:20

It's a... Loss pervades.

0:33:200:33:22

This England that you look through now in these books

0:33:220:33:24

has basically gone.

0:33:240:33:26

There's not a village here really you can drive through now that

0:33:260:33:29

hasn't got yellow lines and kerbs and signs everywhere.

0:33:290:33:32

And where the nice, old, rustic pubs were full of farmers...

0:33:320:33:36

-It's all gone.

-..are now gastro-pubs!

0:33:360:33:39

'As the pace of change quickened in the late 1930s,

0:33:420:33:45

'Piper's attention was drawn to the very "olden days" -

0:33:450:33:49

'to manifestations of permanence in an increasingly volatile world.

0:33:490:33:54

'One Oxfordshire monument in particular gripped his imagination.'

0:33:550:34:00

Piper devotes an unusually large entry to the Rollright Stones,

0:34:020:34:07

along with a full-page illustration.

0:34:070:34:09

He writes, "A prehistoric stone circle, after Stonehenge

0:34:090:34:14

"and Avebury, the most celebrated in England."

0:34:140:34:18

As a modernist, the abstract shapes of these weathered stones

0:34:190:34:23

clearly appealed, as did the fact that they overlooked these

0:34:230:34:27

extraordinary views over the heart of England.

0:34:270:34:31

But the date of publication of this guide - 1938 -

0:34:310:34:35

gives a clue as to what else might have been of such special interest.

0:34:350:34:40

Disturbing events in Europe meant that he was already moving

0:34:400:34:44

away from an international, ideological style

0:34:440:34:47

and trying to find something more native, more essentially English.

0:34:470:34:52

And these ancient British stones became a sort of symbol

0:34:520:34:56

of the continuity and stability of British history.

0:34:560:35:01

In fact, I think that's true of the Shell Guides as a whole, which

0:35:010:35:04

became a repository - a storehouse of treasures of national identity.

0:35:040:35:09

With the outbreak of war, national survival became the main concern.

0:35:160:35:20

Artistic inspiration was important, but what Britain really needed

0:35:210:35:26

from the countryside was something more prosaic - food.

0:35:260:35:30

"Today, the farms of Britain are the front line of freedom,"

0:35:320:35:35

Winston Churchill declared.

0:35:350:35:37

With the help of the 80,000-strong Women's Land Army,

0:35:390:35:42

moors and meadows were unsentimentally ploughed up.

0:35:420:35:46

And this was only the first step in a modernising revolution.

0:35:460:35:50

If there's one time in particular when we turned our back on the past

0:35:560:36:00

then it was after the war, in the late 1940s and '50s.

0:36:000:36:03

Britain looked to the future with optimism.

0:36:050:36:08

Science and technology would shape a new age.

0:36:080:36:11

This was no time to be nostalgic about the rural past.

0:36:140:36:18

The countryside had to become more productive.

0:36:180:36:21

Less pastoral. More industrial.

0:36:210:36:24

But the challenge was to make agricultural improvement exciting.

0:36:260:36:31

In 1948, a group of farmers, men from the Ministry of Agriculture

0:36:370:36:42

and BBC producers met in Birmingham.

0:36:420:36:45

And it was at this meeting that one of the farmers suggested

0:36:450:36:48

that what the countryside needed was a "farming Dick Barton".

0:36:480:36:53

Dick Barton was a fictional special agent whose radio adventures

0:36:530:36:57

attracted a regular audience of 15 million listeners.

0:36:570:37:01

So everyone at the meeting burst out laughing -

0:37:010:37:03

what a ludicrous idea, a farming Dick Barton.

0:37:030:37:07

Except the BBC producers, who decided they liked the idea

0:37:070:37:11

of making life in the countryside dramatic.

0:37:110:37:14

The programme they went on to develop soon eclipsed Dick Barton

0:37:140:37:18

and became one of the most successful radio programmes

0:37:180:37:21

of all time.

0:37:210:37:23

THE ARCHERS THEME TUNE PLAYS

0:37:240:37:27

Subtitled "An everyday story of country folk",

0:37:330:37:37

The Archers is set in the fictional village of Ambridge.

0:37:370:37:41

The original idea was to seed each episode

0:37:410:37:45

with cutting-edge farming advice.

0:37:450:37:47

Here, go-getting Dan Archer, his wife Doris

0:37:490:37:51

and his stuck-in-the-mud farm hand Simon

0:37:510:37:54

talk about how to modernise egg production.

0:37:540:37:58

'We can get the battery house shifted up here quick as you like.

0:37:580:38:01

'You need three square feet per bird for the best results.'

0:38:010:38:03

-'What's Chris getting for you?

-Some spectacles for the hens. Eh?'

0:38:030:38:07

LAUGHTER

0:38:070:38:08

'Yes, spectacles for the hens.

0:38:080:38:10

'One or two of 'em have started pulling each other's feathers out.

0:38:100:38:14

'I dunno, missus, first Christine wants to give 'em electric light

0:38:140:38:17

'at night so as they can read in bed, and now Gaffer's

0:38:170:38:20

'providing 'em with spectacles so as they wouldn't strain their eyes.

0:38:200:38:23

'I dunno what farming's comin' to, that I don't.'

0:38:230:38:26

The Archers may have begun life as a way of promoting intensive

0:38:290:38:34

farming, but what it stands for has changed over time.

0:38:340:38:37

Nowadays, it isn't an advocate of modernity -

0:38:370:38:41

arguably, it's become a refuge from it.

0:38:410:38:44

So, Ian, welcome to Ambridge.

0:38:470:38:50

This is it. I am privileged.

0:38:500:38:52

-This is it, this is Ambridge.

-THEY LAUGH

0:38:520:38:54

Oh, is this...this is a cottage door, is it?

0:38:540:38:58

Yes, many a door.

0:38:580:39:00

-DOOR CLOSES FIRMLY

-That's good. Very good.

0:39:000:39:02

-Oh, that's good, isn't it?

-You have a job!

0:39:020:39:04

'Up to 5 million people still visit Ambridge each week.

0:39:040:39:08

'For many, it's their only regular encounter with rural life.'

0:39:080:39:13

What's that then?

0:39:130:39:15

This is old recording tape.

0:39:150:39:18

-What's it meant to be?

-We use it for straw.

0:39:180:39:22

Oh, you're kidding!

0:39:220:39:23

Yes, you kind of spread it on the floor a bit.

0:39:230:39:26

If you're in a barn or something with the cows,

0:39:260:39:29

it's just got that nice...

0:39:290:39:31

-Crunch.

-..crunch to it.

-THEY LAUGH

0:39:310:39:34

Brilliant. And what else have we got?

0:39:340:39:36

'In The Archers studio, modern technology is harnessed to

0:39:370:39:40

'a very old idea - of the countryside as the place of escape.

0:39:400:39:45

'The green hills of Borsetshire are a soothing contrast to the grey

0:39:450:39:49

'cities where most people live.'

0:39:490:39:52

And if we've got scenes, for example, where we've got people

0:39:520:39:55

at the top of Lakey Hill and someone needs to run all the way down

0:39:550:39:57

to the bottom, they can run off.

0:39:570:39:59

And if I run off and I'm getting further and further away...

0:39:590:40:02

VOICE FADES

0:40:020:40:03

..hopefully I've now reached the very bottom of Lakey Hill.

0:40:030:40:06

-I'm absolutely miles away.

-Yeah, you sound miles away.

0:40:060:40:09

And I'm just going to run back very fast all the way up the hill.

0:40:090:40:13

And I'm just coming back now and, oh, I'm hardly out of breath,

0:40:130:40:16

but I have just run all the way to the bottom of Lakey Hill.

0:40:160:40:18

That is absolutely brilliant.

0:40:180:40:20

It's a trick of the acoustics and the design of the studio,

0:40:200:40:23

that I can go a very short distance, but sound miles away.

0:40:230:40:27

I feel here that I am literally in the heart of the countryside,

0:40:270:40:30

-but I'm in the middle of Birmingham!

-Yeah, quite.

0:40:300:40:32

THEY LAUGH

0:40:320:40:34

Agricultural innovation does still rear its head in Ambridge.

0:40:340:40:38

But these days, change doesn't necessarily mean progress.

0:40:380:40:42

Take Debbie Aldridge, for example.

0:40:420:40:44

Her new-fangled farming schemes are causing quite a stir.

0:40:440:40:48

The first thing I wanted to ask was the plans for the mega-dairy -

0:40:500:40:53

I mean, how can you possibly have been behind that?

0:40:530:40:57

-I think the very important thing to remember...

-Yeah.

0:40:570:41:00

-..is that Debbie Aldridge...

-Yeah.

-..is a character.

0:41:000:41:03

Oh, is that right(?)

0:41:030:41:04

And I am an actor who plays her. So I don't know...

0:41:040:41:09

So you don't really approve of putting all those cattle

0:41:090:41:12

-in a big factory?

-Well, I don't know anything about it.

-Right.

0:41:120:41:16

But, if you listen to The Archers, and staggering numbers of people do,

0:41:170:41:21

yes, it's full of sort of oddities and odd members of the family,

0:41:210:41:25

but there's something that makes the Archers still stick together.

0:41:250:41:28

It sort of works, doesn't it,

0:41:280:41:30

as a group of people who vaguely function.

0:41:300:41:33

You've got fantastic characters.

0:41:330:41:35

But, more than that, you've got people who talk to one another.

0:41:350:41:38

And I think generally we don't have

0:41:380:41:40

those sorts of conversations in life, do we?

0:41:400:41:42

We send a text, or we ping off... "I'll ping off an e-mail to you!"

0:41:420:41:45

-Yeah.

-And, you know, we don't write letters,

0:41:450:41:47

we don't pick up the telephone,

0:41:470:41:49

but in The Archers they really do pick up the telephone a lot.

0:41:490:41:51

Yes, and they sit down with a cup of tea a lot.

0:41:510:41:54

And a cup of tea. There's less and less interaction.

0:41:540:41:57

So maybe there's a fondness for that, the longing for those times

0:41:570:42:00

when you could just say to someone, "How are you doing?"

0:42:000:42:03

-And expect some sort of coherent response.

-Yes.

0:42:030:42:06

But that sort of is a lovely reflection of us as human beings -

0:42:060:42:09

that, you know, you may have, as you do, 5,000 Facebook friends...

0:42:090:42:13

-I have none.

-..and, you know, 20 million Twitter followers...

0:42:130:42:17

-I'm not on Twitter.

-..as you do!

0:42:170:42:20

You know, the reality is that we can probably hold...

0:42:200:42:22

And no friends either!

0:42:220:42:24

Yeah, but I knew that. We can probably hold about 20 people...

0:42:240:42:29

-Yeah.

-..you know, in our circle of realistic relationships.

-Yeah.

0:42:290:42:34

And so, The Archers reflects that very well.

0:42:340:42:37

And, you know, we have very shallow, very narrow relationships, really,

0:42:370:42:41

-that are techno-based.

-Yeah.

0:42:410:42:42

And we don't sit down and, you know, have a cup of tea.

0:42:420:42:45

-And is it...

-It is so nice to talk to you.

0:42:450:42:48

-Yeah, it is lovely to talk to you!

-THEY LAUGH

0:42:480:42:51

And I've got time, you see.

0:42:510:42:53

With over 17,000 episodes and counting,

0:43:000:43:04

The Archers is the longest-running radio soap opera in the world.

0:43:040:43:08

And perhaps the reason for its continuing popularity is not

0:43:080:43:12

the occasionally sensational introduction of modernity

0:43:120:43:16

into Ambridge in the shape of drug abuse or gay marriage,

0:43:160:43:19

but precisely the reverse.

0:43:190:43:22

Because Ambridge is still a reassuringly cohesive rural

0:43:220:43:26

community, which gets together at the pub - at The Bull -

0:43:260:43:30

in church - at St Stephen's - or in Linda Snell's Christmas pantomimes.

0:43:300:43:35

This is still a place where the passing of the year

0:43:350:43:38

is marked by the seasons, and where the flower and produce show

0:43:380:43:43

is still at the centre of village life.

0:43:430:43:45

Although The Archers was originally aimed at farmers, the

0:43:450:43:49

BBC always wanted to appeal to what it quaintly called "the townsman".

0:43:490:43:54

So, six times a week, the countryside re-colonises the city

0:43:540:43:59

through the medium of radio.

0:43:590:44:01

And the noise and the hubbub of the traffic is replaced

0:44:010:44:05

by the calming bleat of sheep, and the comforting lowing of cattle.

0:44:050:44:10

In the early days, The Archers showcased bigger fields,

0:44:180:44:21

labour-saving machines and more chemicals.

0:44:210:44:24

What happened in Borsetshire happened in real counties

0:44:260:44:29

up and down the land.

0:44:290:44:30

Hedgerows were grubbed up. Ancient woodlands were chopped down.

0:44:300:44:34

By the 1960s, people began to fear that the countryside

0:44:370:44:40

had changed too much.

0:44:400:44:42

This was when the word "environment" acquired a new meaning -

0:44:430:44:47

no longer something which was all around us,

0:44:470:44:51

but something fragile, which might disappear for good.

0:44:510:44:54

In the early 1970s, a government committee was set up to investigate

0:45:060:45:12

the relationship between man and the environment.

0:45:120:45:15

The great and the good who sat on the committee

0:45:170:45:20

decided they wanted some poetry to preface their report.

0:45:200:45:24

So they commissioned Hull-based poet Philip Larkin

0:45:240:45:27

to write something suitably elevating.

0:45:270:45:29

If they were hoping for a bland official statement in verse,

0:45:310:45:35

they'd come to the wrong man.

0:45:350:45:37

What did he look like?

0:45:370:45:39

Eric Morecombe.

0:45:390:45:40

HE LAUGHS

0:45:400:45:42

Balding, big glasses, but without that twinkle

0:45:420:45:45

and that grin that Morecombe had.

0:45:450:45:47

So, a sort of deadpan version?

0:45:470:45:49

Absolutely.

0:45:490:45:51

In person, Larkin was quite rooted in "olden days", wasn't he?

0:45:510:45:55

He certainly was.

0:45:550:45:57

I mean, you know, he was a tweed jacket man, he wore a tie,

0:45:570:46:00

he liked traditional jazz, he didn't like rock music.

0:46:000:46:04

The public persona was very "olden days" when every now and then there

0:46:040:46:08

were television programmes made about him, and he did absolutely sort

0:46:080:46:12

of project this image of, you know, the slightly curmudgeonly old gent.

0:46:120:46:17

Larkin had moved to Hull to work as a university librarian.

0:46:240:46:27

What attracted him to the city was its isolation,

0:46:280:46:32

its end-of-the-line feel.

0:46:320:46:35

He wrote, "Deprivation is for me what daffodils were for Wordsworth."

0:46:350:46:40

His poetry is both melancholic and truthful.

0:46:400:46:44

So, the poem he wrote as a preface to the government report -

0:46:440:46:47

which he later called Going, Going -

0:46:470:46:50

is a sort of fierce elegy,

0:46:500:46:52

a grumpy lament for the destruction of the English countryside.

0:46:520:46:57

"I knew there'd be false alarms

0:47:170:47:18

"In the papers about old streets

0:47:180:47:20

"And split-level shopping, but some

0:47:200:47:23

"Have always been left so far

0:47:230:47:25

"And when the old part retreats

0:47:250:47:27

"As the bleak high-risers come

0:47:270:47:29

"We can always escape in the car."

0:47:290:47:32

The central image of the poem is that England, this valuable,

0:47:360:47:41

ancient thing - the English countryside - is being auctioned

0:47:410:47:45

off, going, going, and it will be gone, sold to the highest bidder.

0:47:450:47:49

That sense of the countryside as something that's been there

0:47:490:47:53

since time immemorial, that we've imagined will always be there.

0:47:530:47:56

But now, suddenly, he's imagining, what will England be like

0:47:560:48:00

when the countryside is gone?

0:48:000:48:01

There's a great moment in the poem where he said,

0:48:030:48:06

we've always assumed that the earth can take it,

0:48:060:48:09

that, whatever we do, the earth, the sea will endure.

0:48:090:48:12

But now, all of a sudden, he's thinking, whoa, too much.

0:48:120:48:15

Larkin loved graveyards.

0:48:220:48:24

He was a man who liked to dwell on his own mortality.

0:48:240:48:28

Unsurprisingly, perhaps, his meditation on the destruction

0:48:280:48:33

of the countryside in Going, Going

0:48:330:48:35

led him to ponder extinction of a more personal kind.

0:48:350:48:38

In the middle of the poem, Larkin asks a question which goes

0:48:420:48:46

to the heart of our relationship with the past and the present.

0:48:460:48:49

"What do I feel now?" he wonders.

0:48:490:48:52

"Doubt, or age, simply?

0:48:520:48:54

"The crowd is young in the M1 cafe".

0:48:540:48:57

He's essentially examining his own responses - is the country

0:48:570:49:02

really going to the dogs, or am I just getting old?

0:49:020:49:05

It's typically honest, and, in its gloomy way, rather profound,

0:49:050:49:09

because what he's suggesting is that our nostalgic yearning

0:49:090:49:13

for an unspoilt rural past has less to do with what's going on out there

0:49:130:49:18

in the farms and the fields, and more to do with what's going on

0:49:180:49:23

in here, with our own insecurities and fragile sense of self.

0:49:230:49:27

What we are frightened of, he seems to be saying,

0:49:330:49:36

is not just that the countryside is going, going, but that we are.

0:49:360:49:41

"It seems, just now

0:49:480:49:50

"To be happening so very fast

0:49:500:49:53

"Despite all the land left free

0:49:530:49:55

"For the first time I feel somehow

0:49:550:49:58

"That it isn't going to last

0:49:580:50:00

"That before I snuff it, the whole

0:50:000:50:02

"Boiling will be bricked in

0:50:020:50:04

"Except for the tourist parts

0:50:040:50:06

"First slum of Europe: a role

0:50:060:50:09

"It won't be so hard to win

0:50:090:50:11

"With a cast of crooks and tarts

0:50:110:50:13

"And that will be England gone

0:50:140:50:17

"The shadows, the meadows, the lanes

0:50:170:50:20

"The guildhalls, the carved choirs

0:50:200:50:23

"There'll be books, it will linger on

0:50:240:50:28

"In galleries, but all that remains

0:50:280:50:30

"For us will be concrete and tyres."

0:50:300:50:33

The government committee didn't like the poem's rude remarks

0:50:410:50:45

about crooks and tarts,

0:50:450:50:47

but its theme was hugely resonant in a new era of uncertainty.

0:50:470:50:52

Post-war Britain had dreamt of a new Jerusalem,

0:50:540:50:58

but this had turned into economic woe and social upheaval.

0:50:580:51:02

People reacted to the unnerving scale of change,

0:51:050:51:09

as they so often do, by reaching back into the past

0:51:090:51:12

and clinging on to symbols of continuity and stability,

0:51:120:51:16

however paradoxical those symbols might be.

0:51:160:51:20

Take, for example, this great edifice here - the Headstone Viaduct

0:51:200:51:24

in Monsal Dale in the heart of Derbyshire's Peak District.

0:51:240:51:28

When Larkin was writing his poem, the railway line that used

0:51:280:51:31

to go through this valley was closed down, yet there was

0:51:310:51:35

a vociferous and successful campaign to preserve the viaduct.

0:51:350:51:40

It's old and weathered-looking and seems venerable,

0:51:400:51:43

and you can see it aroused affection.

0:51:430:51:46

But when it was actually built 150 years ago,

0:51:460:51:49

it was a completely different story.

0:51:490:51:51

Then, Victorian conservationists

0:51:510:51:54

turned it into a national cause celebre.

0:51:540:51:57

They were incensed at the desecration of this rural idyll

0:51:570:52:01

and the intrusion into it of what they saw

0:52:010:52:04

as a symbol of hateful modernity.

0:52:040:52:06

The most outspoken conservationist was the art critic John Ruskin.

0:52:090:52:14

For Ruskin, the railway epitomised a brutalising age.

0:52:150:52:19

It drove its way through the heart of ancient towns

0:52:190:52:22

and blighted the countryside.

0:52:220:52:24

In 1871, Ruskin wrote a furious diatribe against the building

0:52:260:52:30

of the railway...

0:52:300:52:32

"There was a rocky valley between Buxton and Bakewell,

0:52:320:52:36

"once upon a time, divine as the Vale of Tempe."

0:52:360:52:39

That was in ancient Greece, in the very, very "olden days".

0:52:390:52:43

And apparently there you could see gods, like Pan

0:52:430:52:46

and Apollo and the Muses. Anyway, Ruskin continues,

0:52:460:52:49

"You enterprised a railroad through the valley,

0:52:490:52:52

"you blasted its rocks away,

0:52:520:52:54

"heaped thousands of tonnes of shale into its lovely stream.

0:52:540:52:57

"The valley is gone, and the gods with it.

0:52:570:53:00

"And now, every fool in Buxton can be in Bakewell in half an hour,

0:53:000:53:04

"and every fool in Bakewell at Buxton,

0:53:040:53:07

"which you think a lucrative process of exchange - you fools everywhere."

0:53:070:53:11

Quite harsh.

0:53:130:53:14

150 years on, the image of the viaduct has undergone

0:53:230:53:26

a remarkable transformation.

0:53:260:53:28

Now it's seen as a positive addition to the landscape -

0:53:300:53:34

an "olden days" attraction in its own right.

0:53:340:53:37

They reopened the tunnels a couple of years ago so that cyclists,

0:53:440:53:48

horse riders and walkers could come through,

0:53:480:53:50

and it makes for a terrific walk. And it's immensely popular.

0:53:500:53:54

I mean, people come, you know,

0:53:540:53:55

people come to the Peak District for all sorts of reasons,

0:53:550:53:58

but this is a big draw. And in the summer, bank holidays,

0:53:580:54:01

it's very...it's almost crowded.

0:54:010:54:03

Why do you think people come?

0:54:030:54:04

What are they getting out of seeing this?

0:54:040:54:07

Well, it's just a fantastic walk.

0:54:070:54:09

You go into the tunnel at the other side,

0:54:090:54:11

you can't see the way out because it's curved, so it's a mystery.

0:54:110:54:14

And you come out and, wow,

0:54:140:54:17

we're on top of a bridge

0:54:170:54:19

looking down on the river in this beautiful scenery.

0:54:190:54:21

I mean, it's exciting, it's wonderful.

0:54:210:54:24

When you look at this viaduct, it's quite pretty,

0:54:240:54:27

but not very pretty, is it?

0:54:270:54:29

Why do you think people have got so attached to it?

0:54:290:54:32

Well, because they've got used to it being here.

0:54:320:54:34

It's like the trees, it's part of the landscape.

0:54:340:54:37

Now, you're a serious rambler, so, when people are walking,

0:54:370:54:42

you take to the countryside, what is it you're looking for?

0:54:420:54:45

You look around this landscape and it's not a wilderness,

0:54:450:54:48

it's been used for hundreds and thousands of years.

0:54:480:54:51

So what we're looking at is the sum total

0:54:510:54:54

of people's use of this countryside.

0:54:540:54:56

So, it's not natural, and this is just part of that use.

0:54:560:54:59

But we've got Fin Cop up over there, which is a Neolithic site.

0:54:590:55:04

And there's a weir in the river which was used for fishing.

0:55:040:55:07

There's the farms over there.

0:55:070:55:08

The limestone slopes, which are grazed,

0:55:080:55:11

and that's what makes the wildlife so wonderful, the limestone flowers.

0:55:110:55:15

And the footpaths that we use, of course.

0:55:150:55:18

They're the routes that people used to use to get to work,

0:55:180:55:21

to get to church, to get to school, to get to market.

0:55:210:55:24

So, just the footpath's a part of the historical nature of the landscape.

0:55:240:55:29

And that's what the charm is for me.

0:55:290:55:31

If Ruskin's eyesore can become a rambler's delight,

0:55:410:55:45

then who knows what modern monstrosities we may end up

0:55:450:55:48

treasuring in the future - wind farms, perhaps.

0:55:480:55:52

Even fracking sites.

0:55:520:55:53

Despite the fact that it is constantly changing,

0:55:560:55:59

the countryside has been for us a symbol of changelessness -

0:55:590:56:04

a lost Arcadia, a lost childhood,

0:56:040:56:08

a lost home.

0:56:080:56:10

I grew up living abroad, frequently on the move with my mother

0:56:160:56:20

and father, and the landscapes of my youth were exotic -

0:56:200:56:24

Africa, Saudi Arabia and Hong Kong.

0:56:240:56:27

But this, Sussex, is what we always thought of as home,

0:56:270:56:31

which was odd, really, because my father came from Scotland

0:56:310:56:34

and my mother from the Channel Islands.

0:56:340:56:36

But they had decided to move here and buy a house,

0:56:360:56:40

which we always kept as our link to Britain.

0:56:400:56:43

We used to come up here to Devil's Dyke for picnics when I was a child.

0:56:440:56:48

So this very gentle, very English countryside

0:56:500:56:55

is a link to the past, not just for me, but for everyone,

0:56:550:56:58

because they've recently turned it into a National Park.

0:56:580:57:01

And that desire to conserve a much-loved area

0:57:010:57:06

makes me realise again that the countryside in Britain is

0:57:060:57:10

a sort of physical embodiment of the "olden days".

0:57:100:57:14

It's a green portal through which we can go into a world

0:57:140:57:18

which is somehow more peaceful, simpler and better

0:57:180:57:21

than the complex one in which we actually live.

0:57:210:57:24

'I chose the term "the olden days" for this series deliberately,

0:57:350:57:39

'because it is often used pejoratively.

0:57:390:57:42

-HE GROANS

-"Oh, the olden days."

0:57:420:57:44

'Dwelling on the past can be seen as a regressive

0:57:440:57:47

'and slightly absurd national trait.

0:57:470:57:50

'Nostalgia has been considered a British disease,

0:57:500:57:54

'and we can be too easily caricatured

0:57:540:57:56

'as a nation who would like to turn its entire history into a

0:57:560:58:00

'series of commemorative tea towels.'

0:58:000:58:02

But I think the "olden days" is better than that.

0:58:040:58:07

Yes, the facts are a bit dodgy, and the great characters and traditions

0:58:070:58:12

more or less invented, and the countryside over-sentimentalised.

0:58:120:58:17

But the concept is still important, because, at the very least,

0:58:170:58:22

it offers an escape from the confines of the present,

0:58:220:58:25

which shouldn't be underestimated.

0:58:250:58:27

And, at best, it gives us a way to use the past

0:58:270:58:31

to criticise the present, and make the future better.

0:58:310:58:35

So, if we are very lucky,

0:58:350:58:37

in a couple of hundred years,

0:58:370:58:39

someone will look back at us, and find something of merit

0:58:390:58:43

in what we've done,

0:58:430:58:44

and will call our times the "olden days".

0:58:440:58:49

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