Inventing a National Style Majesty and Mortar: Britain's Great Palaces


Inventing a National Style

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In the winter of 1647, Carisbrooke Castle,

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on the Isle of Wight, became a jail for a very important prisoner...

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..King Charles I.

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England was still in the shadow of bloody civil war -

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Royalists against Parliamentarians.

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The future of the monarchy was in doubt.

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But in his prison cell at Carisbrooke,

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the King was planning his future.

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Charles was no ordinary prisoner.

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To many, he was still King

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and treated with some dignity by his Parliamentarian captors.

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He had 30 servants down here at one stage and some of his books

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shipped down from his library,

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among them, a book that had inspired a new royal palace,

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the biggest palace Britain had ever seen.

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Charles wanted architecture to assert and sustain the power of monarchy.

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Palaces should be built on a monumental scale.

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They must live up to the Classical glories of ancient Rome

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and emulate divine architecture described in the Old Testament.

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For nearly three centuries,

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Classicism would dominate palace-building in Britain.

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Here were precisely proportioned and symmetrical buildings

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that banished the confusion of medieval and Tudor times.

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It helped establish a national style that would continue until today.

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Architecture had never been so important to monarchy.

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It's a story of palatial ambition.

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Palaces achieved, palaces abandoned,

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palaces killed off.

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The Tudor line ended when Queen Elizabeth died

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on the 24th March, 1603.

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It had been a painful end as she struggled to resist death.

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The Tudor dynasty was over and a new one, the Stuarts, beckoned.

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The heir was James, King of Scotland,

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a Protestant monarch like his cousin Elizabeth.

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Now he had a new kingdom to enjoy.

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Much of London was a rambling mix of timber and plaster buildings,

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packed into narrow streets.

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The new King proclaimed he would rebuild the city

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like Augustus in Ancient Rome.

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Now London would be made of brick,

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"More durable, safe from fire and beautiful and magnificent."

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On the 15th March, 1604, Londoners flooded onto the streets

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to celebrate the coronation of James I.

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James travelled the ancient route of kingship,

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from the Tower of London, to my right, to Westminster

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and on the way, passed through seven triumphal arches...

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the first of which stood just about here, on Fenchurch Street.

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On top of the first arch was a familiar image of Tudor London,

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old St Paul's surrounded by tightly packed houses and streets.

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But the rest of the arch was something new,

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an essay in Classical proportion and symmetry.

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This one, in front of me now,

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I imagine rose 50ft high

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and was draped with giant curtains painted with clouds.

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When the King approached, the curtains parted to reveal the arch.

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The effect, one observer noted at the time,

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was like the rising of the sun, with all mist dispersed and fled.

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All seven arches, even though temporary structures

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of wood and plaster, pointed to a new future.

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King James was choosing a heroic brand of architecture

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and he would use it to define a new kind of monarchy.

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As James passed under each arch, the message was clear.

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Here was a modern-day Caesar.

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For one day, at least, James' new capital London became ancient Rome.

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Now James wanted to make his vision permanent.

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But he would need help to make it happen.

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Inigo Jones, born in London, the son of a Welsh clothworker,

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was a set and costume designer.

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But on a visit to Italy in the late 1590s,

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Jones was profoundly impressed by Renaissance Classicism...

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in particular, the work of Andrea Palladio.

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This is Jones' annotated copy of Palladio's book,

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showing the rudiments of classical architecture,

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the reconstruction of inspirational Roman buildings,

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with rows of columns, symmetry and geometry

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based on the square, the cube, the sphere.

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In the heart of Whitehall in January 1619,

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the Banqueting House of the old Palace of Whitehall burned down.

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Now Jones would design a new building,

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bringing Renaissance Classicism into the heart of London.

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Today, neighbouring buildings compete for attention...

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..and Jones' Banqueting House is easy to miss.

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But in its day, it was a revolution in stone.

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When new, this stone-faced building would have been

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an extraordinary sight for Londoners, alien in design,

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towering above the older brick and timber built structures,

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as if from another world.

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There are tiers of columns and pilasters,

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there are swags between the pilasters up there.

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This architecture expresses unity, harmony,

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the authority of the monarchy.

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Those are just the qualities that James wanted his reign to express.

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Oh. Goodness, it's wonderful.

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Well, the first thing to observe is that the inside

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is rather like the outside,

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an interior world within the greater world.

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As with the outside, there are tiers of columns and pilasters

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and swags up there with masks and...

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Well, it's a magnificent antique space from the ancient world...

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..daunting, in a way, overwhelming.

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The Banqueting House was completed in 1622.

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Classicism was now established as the backdrop to royal authority.

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But it was only the beginning.

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James died in 1625.

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It would be his son, Charles, who took the union of monarchy,

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power and architecture to new heights.

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First, he would transform the Banqueting House

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into a shrine to his dead father.

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Charles would create a ceiling like no other in Britain.

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And Rubens, the greatest artist alive, would paint it.

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The ceiling is an incredible statement,

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in its content and artistically.

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There are, in this ceiling, three versions of James I.

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The first, above my head, shows James sitting in judgment,

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uniting the crowns of England and Scotland

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and there we see the crown being held by Minerva,

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the goddess of wisdom, above the head of a naked babe...

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the future Charles I.

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At the far end of the hall, above the throne,

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is the personification of James as a bringer of peace and prosperity.

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Here he sits between curving columns,

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pointing down to Peace embracing Abundance.

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In the centre of the hall, on the largest panel,

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you see the apotheosis of James I,

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the divinely appointed monarch

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being carried in triumph to Heaven, raised aloft by Justice.

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Together, three images of James I, really a holy trinity...

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all of this proclaiming the virtues of divine monarchy,

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the virtues of the Stuart dynasty.

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Charles's ceiling was a piece of breathtaking arrogance,

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almost blasphemous.

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It proclaimed the divinity of the Stuart dynasty.

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But Charles and his architect, Inigo Jones, had even bigger plans.

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The Banqueting House would inspire a new Palace of Whitehall.

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The muddle of Tudor buildings that made up the old palace

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would be demolished.

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The scale of the new building was vast.

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It would stretch nearly 900ft along the banks of the Thames

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and back well over 1,000ft into St James's Park.

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Its river frontage boasted tiers of arches

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and was topped by balustraded entablatures, rows of columns

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and scores of heroic figures from antiquity.

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It would be the largest palace Britain had ever seen.

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Above all, it would be a building to proclaim the divine right of kings.

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The secret of how to do this lay in a book in Charles' own library.

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It had been written by a Spanish mathematician and Jesuit

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named Juan Bautista Villalpando.

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Villalpando believed that God had delivered a set

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of architectural rules to mankind... rules, in their way, as momentous

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as the Ten Commandments handed down to Moses.

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Passages from the Old Testament describe how God created

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the rules of Classical architecture to build the most sacred temple

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in the world, the Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem,

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built to house the Ark of the Covenant.

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Here is the plan of Solomon's Temple as reconstructed by Villalpando.

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It's a wonderful book, full of sensational illustrations.

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Amazing to think of Charles brooding over this plan.

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These drawings are what he would have regarded as

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the world's first sacred building, the great prototype

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for all that's beautiful in architecture.

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Here is the plan of Solomon's Temple.

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It has a grid of nine squares creating a series of courtyards

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and here is the 1638 design for Whitehall Palace.

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What's striking, of course, is the similarity.

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Both designs essentially square and Whitehall, like Villalpando's,

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is organised around a grid of nine squares.

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And here's one of the outer elevations of Solomon's Temple.

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There are towers here marking entrances, tiers of columns

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and pilasters and swags, drapes of foliage...

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just like the design for Whitehall palace.

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The inspiration is clearly Villalpando's reconstruction

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of Solomon's temple.

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They are strikingly similar.

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But Charles was running out of time.

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Political and religious opposition

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to his absolutist - even tyrannical - rule was mounting

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and in 1642, England erupted into civil war.

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Parliamentarians against Royalists,

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one town against another,

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families split down the middle.

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Edgehill, Marston Moor, Naseby...

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battles raged throughout the country.

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The King was captured in January 1647.

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He ended up at Carisbrooke Castle.

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And it was here, even when all seemed lost,

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that Charles gave the go-ahead to the new royal palace.

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John Webb, Inigo Jones' assistant,

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visited him at Carisbrooke with the latest plans.

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This is a revised and final design for Whitehall Palace.

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Charles looked at it and he or Webb wrote upon it the word,

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"taken".

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This design was commissioned. But what on earth was Charles thinking?

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At the 11th hour, did he really believe

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he could snatch victory from defeat?

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That he could, at some point, regain the throne

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and inhabit such a vast palace?

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Was he trying to intimidate his jailers with this almost

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monstrous display of self-confidence,

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or was he simply, sadly deluded?

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On New Year's Day, 1649,

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Parliament voted to try King Charles for treason.

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The outcome was a foregone conclusion.

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Charles was found guilty as "tyrant, traitor, murderer

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"and public enemy to the good people of this nation."

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The sentence was "death by severing the head from his body."

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This was uncharted territory,

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an incredible turn of events.

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Traitors were usually enemies of the King,

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but now the King had been declared a traitor to the nation.

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Parliament had turned the old world upside down.

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And the place chosen for execution was perhaps the final insult.

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Charles was to be treated as a criminal,

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with Whitehall Palace the scene of his crimes.

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So he would be executed on a scaffold in front of the very place

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that embodied the Stuart monarchy...

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the Banqueting House.

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As Charles passed through the building, he must have looked up

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at the Rubens ceiling to see his father ascending into Heaven.

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What Charles saw next must have chilled him to the bones.

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There was, on the scaffold, a set of chains to restrain him

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in case he struggled and a cheap black coffin to receive his body.

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Charles had wanted to address his last words to the public

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but the vast crowds of people out there on rooftops,

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leaning from upper windows, was kept well back by ranks of soldiers.

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The Banqueting House had been modified for his execution.

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A window had been removed, so he could step out onto

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the specially erected scaffold, draped in black.

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"I go from a corruptible to an incorruptible crown,"

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he said, "Where no disturbances can be..."

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Charles knelt down on the scaffold, just a metre or so above my head.

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The restraining chains were, of course, not needed.

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He said to the executioner,

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"When I put my hands this way...

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"then!"

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Charles lay down with his head on the block.

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He murmured a few words to himself,

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a private prayer, of course, and then put out his arms, thus.

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And with one blow, all was over.

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LOUD THUD

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Architecture to glorify the monarchy

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had ended up as a backdrop to royal catastrophe.

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The years of the Commonwealth saw many royal palaces fall into ruin.

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Squatters moved into Windsor Castle.

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Oliver Cromwell famously occupied the Palace of Whitehall,

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but even it was put up for sale after his death in 1658.

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Many saw buildings in the Palladian style of Inigo Jones

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as painful reminders of royal power and arrogance.

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Jones' Somerset House was ransacked,

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and the Classical portico which he had added to old St Paul's

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was vandalised.

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Jones himself was imprisoned by the new regime

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and fined £1,000 for being a delinquent.

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He died in 1652, unaware that a royal palace

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would ever be built again.

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On the 29th May, 1660, the unthinkable happened.

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The heir of the executed King returned

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to restore the fortunes of the Stuart dynasty.

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And the new King Charles shared the architectural ambitions

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of his father...and more!

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Charles II arrived in London from exile in Europe

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in triumphant style.

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And Charles brought with him

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a taste for the new French style of Classicism.

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The Baroque was about to reach new heights -

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the building of the great Palace of Versailles for Louis XIV.

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Its grandeur and scale would be the envy of British monarchs

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for decades to come.

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But here in Britain, the world had changed.

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From now on, the monarchy

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and its finances would be under the control of Parliament.

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Claims to rule by divine right were well and truly over.

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But it remained to be seen how the ambition of royal architecture

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could deal with the reality of reduced royal power.

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At Windsor Castle, Charles managed to build a miniature palace

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within a palace.

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Behind medieval castle walls,

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he created a set of Baroque apartments...

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..an opulent royal interior, discreetly hidden from public view.

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Only three of the original 15 rooms survive but the decorations

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give a hint of what Charles would have done on a grander scale.

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It was a way of enjoying the flavour of a Baroque palace

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while still enjoying a defendable position.

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It was as far as Charles dared go,

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given the events of just a few years earlier.

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Charles would complete only one palace, at Winchester,

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close enough to the coast for a speedy escape

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if things turned anti-royal again.

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Winchester was later abandoned, converted into barracks

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and gutted by fire in the late 19th century.

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But Charles succeeded in setting the style for royal architecture.

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In 1669, he'd appointed Christopher Wren

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as Surveyor of the King's Works.

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Wren had first come to prominence after the Great Fire of London

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with a plan for rebuilding the whole city.

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He proposed abandoning the old medieval layout

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and replacing it with a harmonious grid of streets,

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intersected by wide, straight, diagonal avenues.

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Alas, the King did not have the money or power to force through

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a radical plan and the city was rapidly rebuilt

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on its cramped medieval plan.

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But the choice of Wren as Royal Architect would resonate

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long beyond Charles' death in 1685.

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After a brief and disastrous reign by Charles II's brother,

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James, Parliament asserted its opposition to the King

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and James fled abroad into exile.

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Now events offered Wren a new royal patron.

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Parliament invited James' Protestant daughter, Mary,

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and her husband, William, to become joint monarchs.

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It was called The Glorious Revolution

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for its empowerment of Parliament,

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but it would also pave the way

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for the most ambitious royal building for years.

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William and Mary were a most odd couple.

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He was a wheezing asthmatic, stunted, with blackened teeth

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and a hooked nose.

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She was attractive, 12 years his junior and half a foot taller.

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The marriage got off to a bad start. She was a reluctant bride

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and cried through much of the marriage ceremony.

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So you have Mary, emotional, passionate, good-looking,

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and William, chilly, dour and grim of visage,

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But the alliance grew into that most unlikely of things,

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a politically-arranged marriage that blossomed into true love.

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The blend of the cautious and pragmatic William

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with his exuberant, art-loving wife, Mary, was a magic combination.

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It meant for the first time since James I,

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royal building work wasn't going to set alarm bells ringing.

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Parliament trusted and needed William, so Mary could get on

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with what she liked most, the art of building.

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She also had the alibi of being a caring wife.

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Newly arrived from Holland,

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asthmatic William was soon enfeebled by the London damp.

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Ten days after arriving in England

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and after seeing her haggard husband,

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Mary moved William and the royal household

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down here to Hampton Court.

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It was in the countryside, by the river,

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away from the smokes and smogs of the City.

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But changes had to be made to the old Tudor building, so two days

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after arriving, the Royal couple summoned Sir Christopher Wren down to look at the palace

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and come up with ideas for additions and alterations.

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Wren's plan was radical.

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He would demolish the Tudor Palace and rebuild from scratch.

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Only the Great Hall would be spared.

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But the plan was much too expensive.

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The Queen took charge.

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Mary had a great enthusiasm for architecture.

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She and Wren poured over drawings for Hampton Court.

0:28:260:28:30

He called her judgment exquisite.

0:28:300:28:33

Together, they came up with an ambitious plan.

0:28:330:28:36

Wren would add a new building, but attached to the old Tudor palace.

0:28:360:28:41

A sense of economy prevailed,

0:28:410:28:43

even though the new building would contain over 250 rooms.

0:28:430:28:48

In style, too, the new Palace would tread a political knife-edge.

0:28:510:28:56

For sheer bravado, it needed to rival the best palaces in Europe,

0:28:560:29:01

while avoiding the impression the old Stuart arrogance was back.

0:29:010:29:04

So in their architecture,

0:29:160:29:17

William and Mary wanted to challenge Louis XIV, the Sun King.

0:29:170:29:23

But their lack of money and perhaps fear of appearing too ostentatious

0:29:230:29:29

in the eyes of their new subjects,

0:29:290:29:32

gives their palace a very special quality...

0:29:320:29:36

a quality of muted grandeur.

0:29:360:29:38

And, of course, Christopher Wren, with typical brilliance,

0:29:380:29:41

turned economic constraints to artistic advantage by using

0:29:410:29:46

cheaper red brick but laced with white stone.

0:29:460:29:50

It gives this a great architectural distinction.

0:29:500:29:54

And rather than being intimidating, say, like Versailles,

0:29:540:29:59

this palace is comfortable, it is sedate, it has a sense of welcome.

0:29:590:30:03

Even so, the palace borrows directly from France's architecture

0:30:120:30:17

of royal etiquette and flamboyance.

0:30:170:30:19

This is the King's Staircase, the start of the King's Apartment.

0:30:300:30:34

The theme here, in the decoration, is the glorification of William.

0:30:340:30:38

We see him here in three guises.

0:30:380:30:41

Above me, he is Apollo, presiding over the muses of Peace,

0:30:410:30:46

Plenty and Prosperity.

0:30:460:30:48

And up here, as Alexander the Great,

0:30:490:30:52

with winged Victory over his shoulder.

0:30:520:30:55

So, military triumphalism.

0:30:550:30:58

And here, as Emperor Julian ridding the world of Roman Catholicism.

0:30:580:31:04

And above all preside the gods in banquet,

0:31:050:31:10

looking down and approving the world, the works of William.

0:31:100:31:14

But however brilliant the decoration, the most exciting

0:31:200:31:23

feature here is the arrangement of the King's State Apartment.

0:31:230:31:27

The first room is the Guard Chamber, where guards were stationed

0:31:310:31:36

to keep out idle, mean and unknown persons.

0:31:360:31:39

Then from here on in, each room becomes more exclusive,

0:31:450:31:48

allowing access to the King to fewer and fewer people,

0:31:480:31:53

an architectural statement in status and privilege.

0:31:530:31:57

And an enfilade adds drama to the space.

0:32:030:32:07

It's the name given to a set of aligned doorways

0:32:070:32:10

forming a perfect vista through a succession of rooms.

0:32:100:32:13

Such a virtual corridor ensured a theatrical feel to the whole thing.

0:32:170:32:21

This is the King's Presence Chamber,

0:32:300:32:34

a place of formal reception where the King would have sat

0:32:340:32:39

beneath this canopy of state.

0:32:390:32:41

Now things get a little bit more privileged,

0:32:430:32:46

with many visitors being filtered out at this door.

0:32:460:32:50

The King's Eating Room was, as the King described it himself,

0:32:570:33:01

"Open to persons of good fashion and good appearance

0:33:010:33:05

"that have a desire to see us at dinner."

0:33:050:33:08

Next came the King's Privy Chamber...

0:33:130:33:16

..where nobility and privy councillors were permitted.

0:33:180:33:21

Now this is very interesting.

0:33:300:33:32

Only very special people would have been allowed in here,

0:33:320:33:35

the Withdrawing Chamber.

0:33:350:33:37

They'd have come in to chat to the King, so therefore very sort of

0:33:370:33:41

privileged access, or even play cards with him in front of the fire.

0:33:410:33:45

So more relaxed but nevertheless,

0:33:450:33:48

the King still has a sort of throne on this dais, sitting there

0:33:480:33:52

and contemplating the portrait of his grandfather, Charles I.

0:33:520:33:57

This is the Great Bedchamber, the start of the inner world

0:34:130:34:17

of the King's apartment, ruled over by a very powerful courtier

0:34:170:34:21

called the Groom of the Stool.

0:34:210:34:24

And here we have this absolutely sensational bed,

0:34:240:34:28

but not for sleeping in, it was a great status symbol, really,

0:34:280:34:32

a symbol power. Also, it was the focus of a strange bit of theatre

0:34:320:34:38

that William had imported from the court of his great rival

0:34:380:34:41

Louis XIV, because when William was in residence here,

0:34:410:34:45

he would get dressed and undressed in public.

0:34:450:34:50

The King would be here, the courtiers over there,

0:34:500:34:52

he would be putting on his shirt, his waistcoat, chatting to them,

0:34:520:34:56

I suppose, as this event took place.

0:34:560:34:59

William, knowing his character, poor fellow, must have hated it.

0:34:590:35:03

Slightly embarrassing.

0:35:030:35:05

Next, the King's Little Bedchamber.

0:35:080:35:10

Designed to be the King's real bedroom,

0:35:100:35:13

few courtiers would have made it here.

0:35:130:35:15

On the ceiling is Mars, the god of war, perhaps depicting William

0:35:190:35:24

being disarmed by Mary, in the guise of Venus.

0:35:240:35:28

The finale, curiously, is one of the smallest rooms in the palace.

0:35:310:35:35

This is the King's Closet.

0:35:410:35:43

This small room was the ultimate goal of all ambitious courtiers.

0:35:430:35:48

Only the most privileged would be allowed in here

0:35:480:35:52

for a private interview with the King.

0:35:520:35:55

There's something very ingenious about this room.

0:35:550:35:57

William, standing here, would have had a view, via this angled mirror,

0:35:570:36:02

of the entire length of the enfilade,

0:36:020:36:05

seeing who was coming into his presence.

0:36:050:36:08

But Hampton Court was 13 miles,

0:36:150:36:17

and a couple of hours hard ride, from central London.

0:36:170:36:20

Increasingly, William and Mary were under pressure to move back to town.

0:36:240:36:28

But Mary was not moving to London

0:36:330:36:35

unless she could have a palace well away from the river.

0:36:350:36:39

She chose Nottingham House in the quiet village of Kensington.

0:36:400:36:45

Sir Christopher Wren was given the job of turning

0:36:450:36:47

Nottingham House into a royal home.

0:36:470:36:50

If Hampton Court had been something of a compromise,

0:36:500:36:53

this project promised to be even more so.

0:36:530:36:57

Due to constraints over time and money, Wren suggested initially

0:36:570:37:00

keeping the Jacobean house

0:37:000:37:02

and having four corner pavilions around it.

0:37:020:37:05

Once again, brick was the chosen material, cheaper than stone.

0:37:050:37:09

Mary drove the project and she was a very tough taskmaster.

0:37:090:37:14

Everyday, she urged Wren and the builders to finish quickly,

0:37:170:37:21

so the royal couple could move in.

0:37:210:37:23

One day, a wall collapsed, killing several men.

0:37:240:37:27

"I was too impatient," Mary said, blaming herself for the tragedy.

0:37:270:37:31

For a palace, Kensington is very modest.

0:37:370:37:41

It's about as close as a royal couple could get to building

0:37:410:37:44

themselves a domestic semi-suburban villa.

0:37:440:37:50

The only external grandeur are these three windows in front of me,

0:37:500:37:53

with that parapet up there and those urns

0:37:530:37:55

and some curious carved keystones down below.

0:37:550:37:59

This simplicity could simply be William and Mary

0:38:000:38:03

being politically astute, not wanting to build a mighty palace

0:38:030:38:07

to frighten their new subjects...

0:38:070:38:09

but more likely it represents

0:38:090:38:12

the sort of home they wanted to live in as a happily married couple.

0:38:120:38:16

But the palace interior is far from modest.

0:38:240:38:27

The King's Staircase was originally wooden

0:38:310:38:35

but work began on a new stone staircase in 1695.

0:38:350:38:39

The walls of the staircase, like much of the palace interior,

0:38:410:38:44

would be decorated by later monarchs.

0:38:440:38:47

But they continued the Roman and Italian Renaissance themes

0:38:490:38:53

the Stuarts had introduced...

0:38:530:38:55

..and nowhere more so than the climactic Cupola Room.

0:38:560:38:59

This is the most striking room in the palace - the Cupola Room.

0:39:060:39:11

It's splendid.

0:39:140:39:16

The ceiling is inspired by the great emblematic Roman building,

0:39:200:39:24

the Pantheon... wonderfully theatrical.

0:39:240:39:28

It has the architectural authority,

0:39:280:39:31

the ancient pedigree of the interiors created by Inigo Jones

0:39:310:39:35

for James I and Charles I, almost 100 years earlier.

0:39:350:39:40

This really is the recognised, accepted architectural language

0:39:400:39:45

of British monarchy.

0:39:450:39:47

But the architectural ambitions of royalty

0:40:160:40:19

were about to spill beyond palace walls.

0:40:190:40:23

In 1692, Sir Christopher Wren completed the Royal Hospital

0:40:230:40:26

at Chelsea, a home for old soldiers.

0:40:260:40:29

Situated two miles south of Kensington,

0:40:350:40:38

Chelsea was as monumental as any royal palace.

0:40:380:40:42

Now Wren planned the construction of a two mile avenue

0:40:480:40:52

to connect Chelsea with Kensington Palace.

0:40:520:40:55

The remains of this scheme survive.

0:40:550:40:57

What was Wren up to? His ambition was amazing.

0:41:000:41:05

He must surely have collaborated with William and Mary

0:41:050:41:09

over the acquisition of the site for Kensington Palace

0:41:090:41:13

and, with them, sought to create in the fields of west London

0:41:130:41:17

an approximation of the Baroque gardens of Versailles

0:41:170:41:22

or indeed, to realise aspects of the Renaissance plan for Rome.

0:41:220:41:29

I suppose for Wren, this was an opportunity at last to realise

0:41:290:41:34

his vision for rebuilding the city of London.

0:41:340:41:37

Alas, Wren's plans ended here.

0:41:440:41:47

All that remains is this short length of gravel pathway...

0:41:470:41:51

and the question of what might have been.

0:41:510:41:55

Back at Kensington Palace, things were about to unravel.

0:41:580:42:01

Queen Mary, architectural and artistic spirit

0:42:050:42:08

of the Stuart dynasty and royal muse for Wren, was ailing.

0:42:080:42:12

This was Mary's bedchamber.

0:42:210:42:23

On the 20th December, 1694,

0:42:260:42:29

she woke up here with a headache, back pains and a slight fever.

0:42:290:42:36

She had smallpox.

0:42:360:42:38

William, of course, was distraught.

0:42:400:42:42

He knew just how deadly the disease was...

0:42:420:42:45

It had killed his mother and his father.

0:42:450:42:48

He wrote to a cousin,

0:42:480:42:51

"You can believe the condition I am in, loving her as I do.

0:42:510:42:55

"If I lose her, I shall be done with the world."

0:42:550:42:59

As Mary's health declined,

0:43:180:43:20

she was moved into this small closet, adjoining her bedchamber.

0:43:200:43:25

It would have been a very private room and when in health,

0:43:250:43:29

it played an important role in Mary's life in the palace.

0:43:290:43:33

This is where she would have written letters, read books, I suppose,

0:43:330:43:37

received intimate friends...

0:43:370:43:40

And it's now, as you can see, a rather clinical office.

0:43:400:43:45

Strange.

0:43:450:43:47

But around Christmas, 1694,

0:43:470:43:52

it was this room, this small room,

0:43:520:43:55

in which Mary died.

0:43:550:43:56

Seven years later, William died and Mary's sister,

0:44:020:44:05

Anne, last of the Stuart monarchs, died childless.

0:44:050:44:09

Wren would go on to complete his greatest work,

0:44:140:44:18

his immense Baroque cathedral of St Paul's.

0:44:180:44:21

He would even live to see it finished,

0:44:220:44:24

dying at the grand old age of 91.

0:44:240:44:27

But the Stuart monarchy,

0:44:300:44:31

the most architecturally obsessed royal dynasty Britain had ever seen,

0:44:310:44:35

was over.

0:44:350:44:37

And for a while, it looked like the grand vision

0:44:380:44:41

for royal building had died with them.

0:44:410:44:44

Parliament settled on a distant branch of the family

0:44:470:44:51

to take over the throne...

0:44:510:44:53

German princes of Hanover, with solid Protestant credentials.

0:44:530:44:58

While other European monarchs built with Baroque extravagance,

0:44:580:45:02

in Britain, no great royal palaces would be built to reflect

0:45:020:45:06

the nation's growing Imperial ambitions.

0:45:060:45:09

Kew Palace is one of the most modest buildings

0:45:160:45:18

ever to rejoice in the title of palace.

0:45:180:45:21

Built in 1631 as a merchant's villa,

0:45:240:45:28

it was acquired by the new royals in 1728.

0:45:280:45:32

It was a perfect country retreat, but also close enough to London.

0:45:320:45:37

Kew would become a favoured residence of George III

0:45:370:45:40

and his growing family.

0:45:400:45:42

It seemed to usher in a new era.

0:45:420:45:45

George was like a breath of fresh air when he came to the throne in 1760.

0:45:510:45:55

He was only 22 years old.

0:45:550:45:58

He got married almost immediately. It must have been a love-match

0:45:580:46:01

because he and his queen started having children

0:46:010:46:04

at a rate of one a year - for the next 15 years!

0:46:040:46:08

As soon as you step in here, it feels, well, not like a palace,

0:46:180:46:22

but like a family home.

0:46:220:46:25

For George, this house must have been full of memories.

0:46:350:46:40

As a child, this is where he'd received part of his schooling.

0:46:400:46:45

So it was natural for him to arrange for his children

0:46:450:46:49

to be brought up here.

0:46:490:46:51

This was their nursery, this is where they received

0:46:510:46:54

their early lessons, where they played...

0:46:540:46:57

and they were, by all accounts, a rowdy bunch.

0:46:570:47:01

One governess took to drink

0:47:010:47:04

and a governor resigned in despair.

0:47:040:47:07

George disliked Hampton Court and Kensington Palace.

0:47:130:47:16

Kew is probably where he felt most at home.

0:47:160:47:19

Even today, it has a feel of modest domesticity.

0:47:220:47:26

And it brought the royal family

0:47:260:47:27

closer to the people than ever before.

0:47:270:47:30

It seems incredible, but in the late 18th century,

0:47:440:47:47

that path, the one right down there, was a public road.

0:47:470:47:51

There were gates and railings to give the royal family some privacy

0:47:510:47:56

and security, but it does show just how close George's subjects

0:47:560:47:59

could get to their monarch.

0:47:590:48:02

And in the early days of George's reign, he welcomed them in.

0:48:020:48:07

There are accounts of the King and Queen sitting at windows

0:48:110:48:15

and talking to friends and you can imagine George, on occasion,

0:48:150:48:19

chatting to his subjects on the road there - it's quite possible.

0:48:190:48:24

And of course the royal children playing in the gardens.

0:48:240:48:28

On one occasion, a royal gardener approached the King and complained

0:48:280:48:33

about the public trampling the flowers and tearing up the shrubs.

0:48:330:48:38

The King, somewhat annoyed, simply snapped back,

0:48:380:48:41

"Well, plant some more, then."

0:48:410:48:44

But George's eccentricity would escalate into insanity.

0:48:500:48:54

There would be times of mania

0:48:570:48:59

when he had to be hidden from public view.

0:48:590:49:02

These were dark days for royalty.

0:49:060:49:08

Unfortunately for George, his mania would push him

0:49:110:49:14

into an act of gothic madness, right on the doorstep at Kew.

0:49:140:49:19

In 1802, work started on the Castellated Palace.

0:49:260:49:30

Radicals nicknamed it The Bastille,

0:49:300:49:33

a gleeful reference to the regicidal days of the French Revolution.

0:49:330:49:39

The new palace was denounced as a monument to madness,

0:49:390:49:43

its neo-medieval style the product of a distempered reason.

0:49:430:49:47

It's amazing to think that the vast new royal palace

0:49:540:49:58

stood just about here.

0:49:580:50:00

The sheer ambition of this grandiose project

0:50:010:50:05

reveals George's soaring optimism...

0:50:050:50:08

or indeed, his mania.

0:50:080:50:10

He must have believed he'd weathered the mental storm

0:50:100:50:13

and he wanted to repossess Kew, the home of a happy childhood.

0:50:130:50:19

But this was the calm before the storm.

0:50:190:50:22

Ten years later, the dream came crashing down.

0:50:220:50:26

In 1811, a regency was proclaimed

0:50:300:50:33

because the King's madness had finally taken hold.

0:50:330:50:37

The Prince Regent, another George, was now monarch in all but name.

0:50:370:50:41

Here was a royal who wanted to return

0:50:420:50:44

to the architectural glory days of the Stuarts.

0:50:440:50:47

This George was generally regarded as a flamboyant rake,

0:50:500:50:55

but was also a leader of taste and fashion, with a passion for

0:50:550:51:01

palatial architecture, a passion that was to find expression

0:51:010:51:07

in a most dramatic manner, on farmland here in Marylebone.

0:51:070:51:12

In 1811, this was agricultural land and due to revert to the crown.

0:51:160:51:22

Now George would take palatial architecture to the people...

0:51:230:51:27

albeit mostly rich and well-connected people.

0:51:270:51:30

John Nash had begun his career as a speculative builder

0:51:320:51:36

and it was his plan that caught George's imagination.

0:51:360:51:39

The farmland would be transformed into a picturesque landscape,

0:51:410:51:45

Regent's Park.

0:51:450:51:47

It would be the setting for an extraordinary

0:51:470:51:49

new architectural vision.

0:51:490:51:51

This is Cumberland Terrace. It's formed by individual houses,

0:51:520:51:56

designed to look like a single palatial composition.

0:51:560:52:01

Nash argued that the Regent's Park development

0:52:010:52:04

should have the look of grand town houses set in the country

0:52:040:52:10

rather than country houses marooned in the town.

0:52:100:52:15

These are domestic palaces,

0:52:150:52:17

hopefully for aristocratic occupation.

0:52:170:52:21

The Classical frontage of Cumberland Terrace

0:52:260:52:29

hid 27 separate houses across three blocks

0:52:290:52:33

linked by triumphal arches.

0:52:330:52:34

The central pediment shows Britannia in imperial pose,

0:52:400:52:44

presiding over the arts, sciences and trades.

0:52:440:52:48

But Nash's development didn't just consist of houses.

0:52:530:52:56

It was part of an audacious new street plan

0:52:580:53:01

that would change the face of London and inspire picturesque town-planning

0:53:010:53:06

beyond the capital.

0:53:060:53:08

The streets of London would be raised to palatial heights.

0:53:080:53:12

It involved the creation of a new road that would have taken

0:53:150:53:19

the residents around Regent's Park,

0:53:190:53:21

straight to the heart of royal power,

0:53:210:53:24

to the palace of the Prince Regent himself.

0:53:240:53:27

The new road, inevitably called Regent Street,

0:53:310:53:34

was to be filled with fashionable shops and houses.

0:53:340:53:38

It swept down to Piccadilly, where the Circus was created,

0:53:380:53:42

before arriving at George's own front door at Carlton House.

0:53:420:53:46

But Nash's great processional route didn't end at Carlton House,

0:53:480:53:52

which stood about here, but continued west along the Mall

0:53:520:53:56

and terminated in front of another royal residence,

0:53:560:54:00

then known as Buckingham House.

0:54:000:54:02

Nash, in partnership with the regent, now George IV,

0:54:020:54:06

would transform Buckingham House into the most famous Palace in the world.

0:54:060:54:10

The wings of the house would be demolished,

0:54:160:54:18

rebuilt and brought forward to form an open courtyard.

0:54:180:54:23

The main block was to be kept but extended,

0:54:230:54:26

with the brick exterior covered in Bath stone.

0:54:260:54:29

George IV's improvements here started here in relatively

0:54:310:54:34

modest manner - it is, after all, revealing that he initially

0:54:340:54:38

referred to the palace as his "pied-a-terre".

0:54:380:54:40

But as King, and with Nash in charge, he undertook the construction

0:54:400:54:45

of one of the largest royal palaces the country had ever seen.

0:54:450:54:50

George and Nash's plans grew ever more ambitious.

0:54:530:54:56

Initial costs were met by public funds,

0:54:560:54:59

but when George needed more, Parliament resisted.

0:54:590:55:03

So he pulled down his father's Castellated Palace at Kew and his

0:55:030:55:08

own Carlton House to salvage stone and recycle fixtures and fittings.

0:55:080:55:12

But costs still spiralled

0:55:140:55:16

and by 1829, they had reached £500,000.

0:55:160:55:21

It was almost undignified.

0:55:220:55:24

Parliament pointed an accusing finger at Nash.

0:55:240:55:28

It was, of course, also a way of getting at George.

0:55:280:55:31

Nash was hauled before furious parliamentary committees

0:55:310:55:34

demanding to know where the money had gone.

0:55:340:55:37

Nash pointed out that he was simply an obedient servant,

0:55:370:55:41

obeying royal orders, but despite all of this,

0:55:410:55:44

Nash did achieve something quite remarkable.

0:55:440:55:47

Here was a building that harked back to ancient Rome,

0:55:500:55:55

to the Classicism beloved by Inigo Jones

0:55:550:55:58

and the vision of Juan Battista Villalpando.

0:55:580:56:02

Today, Nash's triumphal assertion of monarchy survives intact,

0:56:030:56:08

forming three sides of Buckingham Palace's inner courtyard.

0:56:080:56:13

It may feel unfamiliar today,

0:56:190:56:21

but that's because a later frontage has been added,

0:56:210:56:25

enclosing the courtyard and hiding the Nash building from public view.

0:56:250:56:29

George died in 1830, leaving an architectural legacy

0:56:350:56:39

that was to provide the backdrop for modern monarchy.

0:56:390:56:42

At the time, though, it looked like the expense of his building work

0:56:460:56:50

had fatally discredited the monarchy.

0:56:500:56:52

Nash was sacked by Parliament in 1831,

0:56:560:56:59

accused of financial irregularities and negligence.

0:56:590:57:03

He died in 1835...

0:57:050:57:08

out of work and in debt.

0:57:080:57:10

For over two centuries, British kings and queens,

0:57:120:57:15

with their favourite architects,

0:57:150:57:18

embraced the Classical language of architecture as a means of expressing

0:57:180:57:22

the power, the aspirations and the changing fortunes of monarchy.

0:57:220:57:28

It had been an extraordinary journey.

0:57:280:57:30

The two most architecturally ambitious British monarchs

0:57:340:57:37

since the Middle Ages were Charles I and George IV.

0:57:370:57:42

But they were also amongst the least loved.

0:57:420:57:45

Perhaps the price of achieving great royal architecture

0:57:450:57:49

was to be reviled for being profligate and arrogant.

0:57:490:57:54

But William and Mary achieved great things

0:57:540:57:57

without losing the support of the nation.

0:57:570:58:00

Now the monarchs of the modern age would need to use

0:58:000:58:04

all their political adeptness to keep the palace show on the road.

0:58:040:58:09

Next time...

0:58:110:58:13

..opening the palaces to the people...

0:58:140:58:16

..the grandest royal statement of them all...

0:58:180:58:21

..British palaces under fire...

0:58:230:58:25

..and the fight to keep the palaces standing.

0:58:290:58:32

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