Homes for Highland Heroes Scotland: The Promised Land


Homes for Highland Heroes

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The Highlands and Islands of Scotland

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gave more of their men to The Great War

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than any other part of Great Britain.

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But as they fought,

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the world they left behind was collapsing in debt and despair.

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The great Victorian estates were going bankrupt.

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Crofters were starved of land.

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The Highlands, it seemed, were broken.

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The wartime government promised action,

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promised that its Highlands servicemen would return

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to a better world.

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A promise that was soon forgotten.

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They came back to overcrowded housing,

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lack of housing, lack of land,

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lack of any ideas, basically,

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as to how they were going to bring up their families.

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What followed was the battle for the future

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of Scotland's Highlands and Islands.

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A battle between centuries-old tradition,

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and one man's revolutionary vision.

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He thought crofting was just an economic system,

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he didn't realise that it was a whole way of life.

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For many, the choice was stark.

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To stay, and scrape a living from the land...

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..or to leave that land for ever.

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This is the story of Scotland's most remote communities,

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in the turbulent decade after The Great War.

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Scottish men and women in search of a future,

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and their own, individual, promised land.

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The connection with the land was critical,

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because the connection with the land

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was the connection with survival.

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Agnes Rennie's grandfather was

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one of the tens of thousands of servicemen

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who returned to the Scottish Highlands and Islands

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in the winter of 1918.

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Angus Gillies had served four years in the Royal Navy.

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His ship had been torpedoed.

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A wake had been held in his name.

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Angus returned from the dead to his family croft at South Dell

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on the west coast of Lewis.

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And, like many of his wartime comrades,

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he returned to poverty and desperate overcrowding.

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He lived here.

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His five children at that time,

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my father being the eldest...

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..and his wife...

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..his mother, and two of his mother's sisters,

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and they all stayed in this old blackhouse that they lived in.

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The animals would have stayed at one end,

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that was the way blackhouses were built at that time.

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The conditions that people had come back to,

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the conditions that people were raising families in

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were just so difficult.

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It is really hard to imagine the poverty

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that people were coping with at that time.

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Nowadays, you can see the crofts behind us,

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running to the sea, you know,

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narrow crofts, because all of these crofts had, over the years,

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been divided and subdivided...

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..and had reached a stage where really, practically,

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they couldn't be divided much further,

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so something had to happen, something had to give.

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Crofters like Angus Gillies would come to believe

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that they had been cruelly deceived by their government.

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Four years earlier,

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they had signed up to fight for King and country...

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..encouraged to believe that their service and sacrifice

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would be honourably rewarded, with land enough to raise their families.

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There were all sorts of arguments used, enticements,

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if you will, to encourage men to sign up for the war,

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and although there were no specific promises made,

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there was a general theme in the rhetoric

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at the beginning of the First World War,

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that one of the things that people were fighting for voluntarily

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was a better society,

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and in the Highlands, that came to be very much associated with

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the land question.

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The notion that what was in these days called land settlement,

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that new crofts would be created,

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that previously clear land

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would be taken over again,

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often by the state, and divided into crofts,

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that was a notion that had been...

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pressed for and actually acted upon in the years running up to the war.

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So, when these young folk got back,

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these young men got back from the war, you know,

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they said, you know, we've fought for this land, literally.

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Our friends and neighbours and colleagues have died for this land.

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And in large numbers.

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And we are entitled to it.

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From the narrow crofts of South Dell,

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Angus Gillies and his neighbours would have looked south

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to the rolling fields of the 2,000 acre Galson Farm.

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Enough land for 50 crofts.

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There would have been a resentment...

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because at the same time as they were living

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in these hugely overcrowded conditions,

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just over that turf wall...

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..were these acres of green.

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And these acres of green

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were all just one farm.

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That farm had been created in the 1860s,

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when the human population of Galson

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had been cleared out beyond the boundary walls,

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when the best land had been given over to livestock.

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A process that was repeated all across Highland Scotland,

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that created a world of great farms and sporting estates

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with tiny crofting communities clinging to their edge.

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As The Great War came to a close,

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that world was in desperate crisis.

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The Highland estates had been ruined by taxes and falling stock prices.

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Crofters fared no better,

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starved of the land they needed to sustain their families.

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No-one seemed to know how to make money from the Highlands.

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But in 1918,

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a 66-year-old English millionaire industrialist

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arrived in the town of Stornoway.

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His name was William Hesketh Lever,

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ennobled the year before as Baron Leverhulme,

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the celebrated manufacturer of Sunlight Soap.

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Leverhulme purchased the Lewis estate, the entire island,

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for the knock-down price of £143,000,

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convinced that crofts and estates were the past,

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and industry could save the Highlands.

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Leverhulme had an absolutely apocalyptic vision

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for the whole of the island of Lewis.

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We're looking now from a turret

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on the top of Lews Castle...

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..over at the town of Stornoway.

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It's maybe 10,000 people, a busy, relatively prosperous little place.

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If William Hesketh Lever had had his way,

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we'd be looking at a city of between 100,000 and 150,000 people.

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There would have been railway lines running out of here

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to all across the rest of Lewis,

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and we'd have been looking at airstrips

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for spotter planes to take off from,

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to fly over the North Atlantic and the northern Minch,

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to spot the shoals of fish,

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which his enormous fishing fleet would then sail out

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and harvest and catch,

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and bring back here and be prepared in massive canneries

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to be sent south and sold in a chain of fishery stores

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called Mac Fisheries,

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which he'd brought throughout the UK specifically for that purpose.

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Just some extraordinary plans.

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Extraordinary plans.

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Leverhulme proposed to redesign Stornoway's town centre,

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placing a huge war memorial in a new town square.

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His factory workers would give up their crofts,

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and live in these clean, modern houses.

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Built in a style borrowed from his soap factory

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at Port Sunlight, on the Mersey.

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The English millionaire was devout in his faith

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that Scotland's most remote communities could be industrialised.

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And, in the summer of 1918,

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he travelled to the north of his Protestant, Presbyterian island,

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invited to attend a memorial service

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in the ancient Episcopal church of St Mortlach.

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..and forgive us our trespasses,

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as we forgive those who trespass against us.

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And lead us not into temptation,

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but deliver us...

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As he posed at the entrance to the church, at a new war memorial,

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the soap manufacturer paid tribute to the dead,

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and promised a bright future for the living.

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"They've won the war.

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"It's now for us to win the peace and to make our island fragrant

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"with hopes and possibilities

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"for a brighter and more glorious future."

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Leverhulme's sermon was applauded by many on Lewis,

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in particular, by the moneyed middle classes of Stornoway.

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But his world of factory bells and weekly wages

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was anathema to the local crofters...

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..who were determined to continue with their own,

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less than lucrative lifestyle.

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He said to these crofters,

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I will build you houses, new houses.

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I will provide these houses with electricity,

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I'll give you a garden.

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Just abandon what you're doing now, come with me

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and you'll have much, much better lives,

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much more fruitful lives, you'll have much more money

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in your pockets, so...

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Isn't that common sense?

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But the crofters still said no.

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We're happy with our land, we want our land,

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we are determined to croft our own land.

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Thank you very much.

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The battle of the crofters against the capitalists

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would erupt the following year.

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A year that would begin in desperate tragedy.

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In the first hours of 1st January,

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in heavy waters at the entrance to Stornoway harbour,

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the Admiralty yacht Iolaire

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struck these rocks.

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181 returning servicemen lost their lives.

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After four years of fighting abroad,

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many drowned within sight of their homes.

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Leverhulme was at his home in Bolton when the ship went down.

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He returned to Stornoway and donated £1,000

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to the disaster fund - the largest single sum.

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The millionaire had a well-earned reputation for compassion.

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Across his worldwide business empire,

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he treated his workers with an unfashionable respect.

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One part Victorian improver and philanthropist,

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the other, a benevolent Highland laird.

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He transformed Lews Castle into a private Brigadoon.

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He got great entertainers of the day, like Harry Lauder,

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to come and stay here.

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And they, of course, would do a turn for his guests.

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He had his own piper, of course, in the tradition of a Highland laird,

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except when that piper insisted on going back to the croft

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to do the harvest, much to Leverhulme's disgust.

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Couldn't believe... He offered to pay the piper more to stay

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than the piper would ever gain from a harvest of potatoes.

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But the piper still went back and harvested his potatoes.

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Leverhulme's piper embodied much of the spirit of the cottage crofter,

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for whom profit took a poor second place

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to the relationship with the land.

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And 1919 saw a significant victory for the crofters.

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Lloyd George's coalition government introduced new legislation

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and £2,750,000 of public money to create new crofts.

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The 1919 Land Settlement Act gave the State the power

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to, essentially, nationalise land, to purchase land,

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for the State, in the form of the Board -

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later, Department Of Agriculture For Scotland -

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to act as the landowner and rent it back.

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It didn't only empower them,

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it imposed obligations on the Board to do that.

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And these obligations, legally, were very queer.

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If there was a demand for land, particularly from

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returning ex-servicemen in a locality,

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if there was land that could be divided into crofts

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or smallholdings in that locality,

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then the Board was obliged to get on and do something about it.

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For the crofters, this was a famous victory,

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a partial reversal of the clearances.

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Focused on Scotland's seven crofting counties,

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from Argyll in the south to Shetland in the north,

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the Scottish Board Of Agriculture

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drew up plans to create thousands of new crofts.

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But one man placed himself above the new legislation...

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..Baron Leverhulme.

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In an extraordinary arrangement, the Scottish Office -

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Robert Munro, who was the secretary for Scotland -

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agreed a deal with Leverhulme that he would give ten years' grace

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and not pursue any land settlement schemes in Lewis

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in order to give Leverhulme's schemes time to come to fruition.

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And that added to the intensity of feeling about this

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because as somebody said, as one of the land raider's said at the time,

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"When the law was on the side of the landlords,

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"the government was anxious enough to enforce it.

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"Now the law is on our side, the law states clearly

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"that we're entitled to that land,

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"but the government is not enforcing that."

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Leverhulme's investment had mesmerised the politicians.

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The man who was already the mayor of Bolton

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had become the great dictator of Lewis.

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And in 1919, one project above all dominated his thinking.

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In the fertile Back district, north of Stornoway,

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Leverhulme announced that his existing farms

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were to be rationalised

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to become one, highly efficient dairy farm...

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..to supply what Leverhulme hoped would be

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the growing town of Stornoway.

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Servicemen who had returned to the Back district

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had hoped for a different outcome.

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Most lived on tiny crofts, squeezed into the least fertile land.

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They wanted Leverhulme's farms for themselves,

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to be divided into new crofts.

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Malcolm MacIver had come back from the war

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to his home village of Coll in the Back district.

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My grandfather was Malcolm MacIver.

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At the end of the war, he came back to overcrowded housing,

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lack of housing, lack of land...

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lack of any ideas, basically, as to how they were going to

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bring up their families.

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If you go to the war memorial in Back,

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you will see what they gave to the State.

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And one of them was actually my grandfather's brother.

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That's the price they paid and many families here paid.

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When they came back, the promises that had been made,

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in terms of land fit for heroes, or just land,

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were totally forgotten.

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All across Scotland's crofting communities,

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returning servicemen became increasingly militant.

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And not for the first time.

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Older crofters would have remembered

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frequent and sometimes violent land raids that began in the 1880s.

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On several occasions, soldiers and marines had been despatched,

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bayonets fixed, to extinguish the unrest.

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Now, in the March of 1919,

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Malcolm MacIver and the men of the Back district

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took similar action.

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They staged land raids on Leverhulme's farms.

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Their protest was entirely peaceful.

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They took possession of small pockets of land

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and they planted potatoes.

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They felt that they had to do this or they would starve.

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There would be no food for their families,

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there would be no future for their families.

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And they saw this place with the tenant farmer

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having all that land that he didn't really need

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and they had no access to the land which they did need.

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A tiny crop of potatoes posed little threat to Leverhulme's plans.

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But the millionaire grew increasingly frustrated

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at the repeated intrusions on HIS land.

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He determined to confront the raiders,

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and on 12th March 1919,

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he was driven to the very centre of the disputed territory -

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the bridge over the Gress River.

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1,000 islanders turned out to hear the millionaire

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they called the "Soap Man"

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speak from the top of an upturned barrel.

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He told them that it was the first sunny day in ten days

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and that was a great...

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..indicator of the future because he was bringing news

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of a sunny future for Lewis.

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Some of the islanders were enthusiastic.

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But many could not share Leverhulme's vision.

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One man, Alan Martin, shouted...

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"This will not do!

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"This honey mouthed man would have us believe

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"that black is white and white is black!

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"We are not concerned with his fancy dreams.

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"What we want is the land.

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"Will you give us the land?"

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Leverhulme said he would not.

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Another raider, John MacLeod was even more outspoken. He said...

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"Lord Leverhulme, you have bought this island.

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"You have not bought us.

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"We refuse to be the bondslaves of any man."

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A year after they had planted their illicit potatoes,

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returning servicemen again raided the farms of the Back district.

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Their protest escalated.

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They began to build houses.

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Leverhulme wrote to the raiders.

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He accused them of wrecking their own island's future.

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The policy you have selfishly adopted

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will force other landless men to emigrate to Canada and elsewhere.

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You're condemning them to be exiles from their own native lands.

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Leverhulme would not compromise.

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Crofting was the past.

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He called it "a gross waste of public money".

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Industry was the future.

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Or so he thought.

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Driving Leverhulme's plans for Lewis

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were the profits made elsewhere in his business empire.

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But, by the summer of 1920,

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those businesses were in serious difficulty.

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His plans for Lewis, including his plans for new roads

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across the island, came to an abrupt halt.

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The bridge is the end of the road.

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It leads on to moorland and a rough track and nothing.

0:21:490:21:54

It's a bridge to nowhere.

0:21:540:21:57

As such, you could see it - and plenty do see it -

0:21:570:22:00

as a symbol of Leverhulme's few years in Lewis.

0:22:000:22:05

A bridge to nowhere.

0:22:050:22:06

His dreams of transforming Lewis

0:22:080:22:11

with millions made from fishing were over.

0:22:110:22:15

Ended not by local protests,

0:22:150:22:17

but by two major world events,

0:22:170:22:20

to the West and to the East.

0:22:200:22:22

There's the October Revolution in St Petersburg,

0:22:250:22:29

which, in turn, led to a trade embargo,

0:22:290:22:32

which wiped out the massive Eastern European market overnight.

0:22:320:22:36

And then Prohibition was introduced in the United States

0:22:370:22:42

and in bars in the States they used to have

0:22:420:22:45

little pots of salted herring for people to pick at

0:22:450:22:48

and then have another whisky or another beer or something.

0:22:480:22:53

Prohibition came along, the bars closed down,

0:22:530:22:56

that demand disappeared.

0:22:560:22:58

And all contributed to this failure of his grand plans.

0:22:580:23:03

They no longer made economic sense.

0:23:030:23:06

Leverhulme's a complicated character

0:23:070:23:10

and a lot of what he was looking to do was visionary.

0:23:100:23:15

And I think he was, in many ways, extremely well intentioned.

0:23:150:23:18

But he was dealing with a situation

0:23:180:23:21

that economically, and in all sorts of other ways,

0:23:210:23:23

were out of his control.

0:23:230:23:25

In the end, there were no factories,

0:23:260:23:29

no railways,

0:23:290:23:31

no pot of gold.

0:23:310:23:33

Leverhulme's parting gesture was deep with irony.

0:23:330:23:36

He offered existing Lewis crofters their own land, free of charge,

0:23:370:23:42

to transform them from tenants to landowners.

0:23:420:23:47

They refused.

0:23:470:23:48

Ownership came with risks.

0:23:480:23:50

Tenancy was protected by law.

0:23:500:23:53

Leverhulme's departure untied the hands

0:23:540:23:56

of the Scottish Board of Agriculture.

0:23:560:23:59

Now freed to create crofts on Lewis

0:23:590:24:02

as they had been trying to do across Scotland.

0:24:020:24:05

But the process of finding suitable land,

0:24:080:24:10

negotiating its purchase,

0:24:100:24:12

then dividing it into crofts was painfully slow.

0:24:120:24:14

In the first three years of the Land Settlement Act,

0:24:160:24:19

the Scottish Board of Agriculture received 4,500 applications

0:24:190:24:24

to create new crofts

0:24:240:24:26

or extend existing crofts.

0:24:260:24:28

But by the end of 1920

0:24:300:24:32

less than 600 had been completed.

0:24:320:24:34

Even when land was made available,

0:24:370:24:40

the process of deciding who would get it could be random and cruel.

0:24:400:24:44

There was a priority system.

0:24:510:24:54

People who'd fought in the war

0:24:540:24:56

were the number one priority,

0:24:560:24:58

They were recognised to have a bigger claim on crofts

0:24:580:25:02

than anyone else.

0:25:020:25:03

But, even then, there might be a drawing of lots, as it were.

0:25:030:25:07

If your number came up, you got a croft

0:25:070:25:10

and if it didn't, you didn't.

0:25:100:25:11

Angus Gillies had come back from the dead

0:25:130:25:15

to an overcrowded croft in South Dell.

0:25:150:25:18

He and his neighbours had looked enviously

0:25:180:25:20

at the wide fields of Galson Farm.

0:25:200:25:23

But, in 1923,

0:25:260:25:28

five years after Angus came back from the war,

0:25:280:25:31

it was announced that Galson was to be divided.

0:25:310:25:34

They came with their rods and their chains

0:25:380:25:41

and boundary stones were put in.

0:25:410:25:45

And then they were allocated.

0:25:470:25:50

And the word that we use here, in Gaelic, for...

0:25:500:25:54

a croft... We don't refer to croich.

0:25:540:25:58

We refer to "lot".

0:25:580:25:59

SPEAKS GAELIC

0:25:590:26:01

Their croft.

0:26:010:26:03

And, literally, the lot was the lot

0:26:030:26:06

that they had been allocated, in a lottery.

0:26:060:26:08

Agnes's grandfather was one of the lucky ones.

0:26:080:26:12

He drew number 25,

0:26:120:26:14

the croft Agnes's family still occupy.

0:26:140:26:17

My maternal grandmother, Shona Marsden,

0:26:220:26:24

she gives a beautiful description

0:26:240:26:27

of when they had got their croft,

0:26:270:26:30

because they would only have ever seen it over the turf wall.

0:26:300:26:33

And she describes how they walked in the road,

0:26:330:26:38

where the road still is,

0:26:380:26:40

between the walls,

0:26:400:26:42

springtime...

0:26:420:26:44

and everything looked so green.

0:26:440:26:46

And everything looked so open.

0:26:480:26:50

It had taken five years,

0:26:520:26:54

but now Angus and his family had found their promised land.

0:26:540:26:58

A rented croft of their own.

0:26:590:27:01

Many were less fortunate.

0:27:030:27:04

Traditionally, the family croft would be passed down

0:27:080:27:10

to the eldest son.

0:27:100:27:12

His younger brothers and sisters

0:27:120:27:14

would have to look for a living elsewhere.

0:27:140:27:17

Many had moved south to the great industrial centres.

0:27:190:27:22

But, as Scotland's economy collapsed,

0:27:220:27:25

they were forced to look further afield.

0:27:250:27:27

There were huge numbers of people in Glasgow, for instance,

0:27:290:27:33

and in other centres, who were of Highland origin.

0:27:330:27:37

But now these places were no longer a Mecca either.

0:27:370:27:41

They were contracting economically and declining.

0:27:410:27:44

Scotland is a place that people are leaving from in huge numbers.

0:27:440:27:48

Particularly for the United States

0:27:480:27:50

and for the so-called dominions of that time - Canada, Australia, etc.

0:27:500:27:56

From the Lowlands to the Highlands,

0:27:560:27:58

critics called for imaginative new schemes

0:27:580:28:02

to stop people leaving.

0:28:020:28:04

Hydroelectrics, new roads,

0:28:040:28:07

perhaps a handful of Leverhulmes

0:28:070:28:09

to breathe life into Scottish communities.

0:28:090:28:13

In the end, the government offered little.

0:28:130:28:16

The Forestry Commission, established in 1919, was a rare success.

0:28:160:28:21

But growing trees would not replace building ships.

0:28:220:28:26

And forests would never prosper in Shetland or the Outer Hebrides.

0:28:260:28:31

And so, with much to encourage it,

0:28:310:28:33

and little in place to stop it,

0:28:330:28:36

1920s Scotland became a time of mass departures.

0:28:360:28:42

A decade when the country's recorded population

0:28:420:28:45

would decrease for the first time ever.

0:28:450:28:48

Emigration was nothing new.

0:28:540:28:56

For over a century, emigration agents had journeyed

0:28:560:29:00

across Scotland's communities, her islands, villages and cities.

0:29:000:29:04

The agents came from Australia, from New Zealand and the United States,

0:29:050:29:09

but most often, they came from Canada.

0:29:090:29:12

Your main Canadian federal agent

0:29:150:29:17

was based in Glasgow.

0:29:170:29:19

But he, and various sub agents who were attached to his office,

0:29:190:29:23

would go out on recruitment drives,

0:29:230:29:24

usually in the summer months.

0:29:240:29:26

And they would give public lectures, hold private meetings

0:29:260:29:29

with people who were interested.

0:29:290:29:30

So it was a big event, it was something to go out to,

0:29:300:29:33

if the agent was visiting your village.

0:29:330:29:35

In 1922, the task of emigration agents was made considerably easier.

0:29:380:29:43

A new Act of Parliament committed £3 million per year

0:29:450:29:49

to subsidise the cost of one-way tickets to the British dominions.

0:29:490:29:53

Instead of paying £16 for a passage to Canada,

0:29:550:29:59

the poorest migrants would pay only £4.

0:29:590:30:02

The 1922 Empire Settlement Act saw Britain pay her people...

0:30:040:30:09

to leave.

0:30:090:30:10

The thinking behind the Empire Settlement Act was

0:30:140:30:17

that it would bolster an empire that seemed to be

0:30:170:30:20

threatening to fall apart

0:30:200:30:22

by sending out loyal British subjects.

0:30:220:30:25

But, taking it from the domestic perspective,

0:30:250:30:28

they were beginning to be worried that some of these subjects

0:30:280:30:31

were not loyal, they were potentially disaffected.

0:30:310:30:34

There were fears of Bolshevism.

0:30:340:30:36

So they thought they could export the potentially troublesome

0:30:360:30:40

and disillusioned to the other side of the Atlantic.

0:30:400:30:43

To send her people to the dominions,

0:30:450:30:47

the British government committed £3 million per year for 15 years.

0:30:470:30:54

A total sum equivalent to £2.5 billion today.

0:30:540:30:58

This was a profoundly controversial piece of legislation.

0:31:000:31:04

It drew ferocious criticism from all corners of Scottish society.

0:31:040:31:08

There was opposition from the left,

0:31:100:31:13

who felt that it was the government essentially giving up

0:31:130:31:17

on the working class, those voices were heard.

0:31:170:31:21

There was opposition from the nascent Nationalist Movement in Scotland.

0:31:210:31:25

And there was additionally, however,

0:31:250:31:27

somewhat maybe counter-intuitively, opposition from the right as well.

0:31:270:31:32

On the right, you had Sir Alfred Yarrow,

0:31:320:31:35

of Yarrow Shipbuilders, complaining about the expense

0:31:350:31:39

of educating people in Scotland,

0:31:390:31:42

only to see them use that education as a springboard to emigrate.

0:31:420:31:46

BELL TOLLS Some went even further.

0:31:460:31:49

In Parliament, the radical Glasgow socialist David Kirkwood,

0:31:490:31:53

likened Scotland's losses to emigration

0:31:530:31:55

to the losses of the war.

0:31:550:31:57

When there is a war on, it is the best blood of the country

0:32:010:32:05

that is taken away.

0:32:050:32:07

It is the same with emigration.

0:32:070:32:09

It is our young men, the best asset that any country ever had,

0:32:090:32:13

the finest raw material in the world -

0:32:130:32:16

the British working class.

0:32:160:32:18

The protests did little to stem the tide of Scottish migrants.

0:32:230:32:27

The 1920s would become

0:32:270:32:29

the peak period for Scottish outward emigration.

0:32:290:32:32

In ten years, almost half a million people left the country.

0:32:350:32:39

A tenth of the population.

0:32:390:32:41

No other European country lost such a large proportion

0:32:420:32:46

of its post-war population.

0:32:460:32:48

The year 1923 saw the most departures,

0:32:500:32:54

when almost 85,000 Scots emigrated overseas.

0:32:540:32:58

The vast majority came from Scotland's towns and cities.

0:33:020:33:05

But the much smaller number,

0:33:070:33:09

who left from Scotland's Highlands and Islands,

0:33:090:33:11

had a massive impact on the tiny communities they left behind.

0:33:110:33:15

In the Hebrides, 1923 would long be remembered

0:33:170:33:22

as the year two migrant ships departed in one single week.

0:33:220:33:27

SEAGULL CRIES

0:33:320:33:33

100 miles from Stornoway, the island of Barra lies

0:33:330:33:37

at the southern edge of the Outer Hebrides.

0:33:370:33:40

A traditionally Roman Catholic community,

0:33:410:33:43

in 1923, the local priest was Father Donald MacIntyre,

0:33:430:33:48

who was also an agent for a Catholic emigration charity.

0:33:480:33:52

In a village hall, MacIntyre hosted a magic lantern show.

0:33:540:33:58

He projected pictures of fertile prairies,

0:34:000:34:03

told stories of a country where hard work was well rewarded.

0:34:030:34:07

Every family was promised a farm of their own.

0:34:090:34:13

In the audience were the MacNeils

0:34:160:34:18

from the village of Tangasdale.

0:34:180:34:20

The father, 55-year-old Alexander, or Atoll MacNeil,

0:34:220:34:26

was a fisherman, fallen on hard times.

0:34:260:34:29

His youngest son, Lachlan,

0:34:300:34:32

would never forget the night the family decided to leave.

0:34:320:34:35

-RECORDING:

-I can remember the showing of pictures

0:34:380:34:41

and listening to speeches.

0:34:410:34:43

How well off they would be if they went to Canada.

0:34:430:34:47

The promised land.

0:34:470:34:49

A few more made up their minds to emigrate,

0:34:510:34:55

including my own family from Tangasdale.

0:34:550:35:01

He didn't want to leave here and none of them wanted to go.

0:35:080:35:11

But they had to go for a better future.

0:35:110:35:13

They thought they were going for better land.

0:35:130:35:15

Land around here, as you can see, is quite scarce

0:35:150:35:17

and it's not easy to plough much of it.

0:35:170:35:19

Their hope was to get land they could have

0:35:190:35:21

and land was the big issue.

0:35:210:35:23

In the Western Isles, emigration had long been a fearful word.

0:35:230:35:27

The legacy of the clearances hung heavily.

0:35:270:35:30

But Government money for new crofts had dried up.

0:35:320:35:36

Harvests were failing.

0:35:360:35:38

By 1923, a subsidised ticket to a new life abroad

0:35:380:35:42

seemed an increasingly attractive option.

0:35:420:35:45

There was a sense of...

0:35:470:35:49

ambition, opportunity,

0:35:490:35:52

a sense that there was a better future to be had

0:35:520:35:55

across the Atlantic.

0:35:550:35:56

Partly, that was a consequence of disillusionment about

0:35:560:35:59

being let down, in terms of promises of homes fit for heroes.

0:35:590:36:03

But it was also a consequence of better publicity.

0:36:030:36:07

What the agents were saying, the impact of the new legislation,

0:36:070:36:11

the fact that many of the guys who were leaving had served in the war

0:36:110:36:15

and had heard about these opportunities elsewhere.

0:36:150:36:18

The MacNeil family - Atoll, Annie and their two children -

0:36:230:36:27

were to depart on a Canadian Pacific liner, the Marloch.

0:36:270:36:31

The youngest son, 11-year-old Lachlan,

0:36:320:36:34

remembered a sombre mood in the family croft,

0:36:340:36:38

as his father said goodbye to family and friends.

0:36:380:36:41

-RECORDING:

-I remember the night.

0:36:450:36:47

Donald McLean "Borve"

0:36:470:36:50

and my father sitting by the fireside

0:36:500:36:55

drinking a bottle of whisky

0:36:550:36:57

and both were crying their eyes out.

0:36:570:37:00

I do like the story Lachlan put on a tape he made in the '80s

0:37:100:37:13

about my great-grandfather, Donald McLean, "Borve",

0:37:130:37:16

coming to see his father, Atoll, with a bottle of whisky,

0:37:160:37:19

and they're at the fireside, crying their eyes out,

0:37:190:37:21

cos they knew that was the last time they'd see each other.

0:37:210:37:24

They at least knew that.

0:37:240:37:25

The next morning, Sunday 15th April 1923,

0:37:280:37:33

13 families left Barra for the short crossing to Lochboisdale.

0:37:330:37:38

There, they met fellow travellers from Benbecula and South Uist.

0:37:400:37:45

And, under a cloudless sky,

0:37:460:37:49

a total of 291 islanders

0:37:490:37:53

were transferred to their waiting ship -

0:37:530:37:56

the Belfast-built liner, the Marloch.

0:37:560:37:59

The islanders joined 177 other Scottish migrants

0:38:030:38:07

who had boarded in Glasgow the day before,

0:38:070:38:10

accompanied by journalists from the mainland,

0:38:100:38:12

who had travelled to witness the Hebridean departures.

0:38:120:38:16

BAGPIPES PLAY

0:38:190:38:21

The correspondent from the Herald described...

0:38:240:38:27

"A spirit of hope and buoyant expectancy,

0:38:270:38:31

"as the Marloch slipped anchor to the tune of the bagpipes."

0:38:310:38:35

Just six days later, another Canadian Pacific liner,

0:38:430:38:47

the Metagama, arrived in the waters off Stornoway.

0:38:470:38:50

She carried 1,100 emigrants who had boarded at Glasgow

0:38:510:38:55

to be joined by another 315

0:38:550:38:58

from all across Lewis...

0:38:580:39:00

..including one passenger from the tiny village of Brue

0:39:020:39:05

20 miles north-west of Stornoway.

0:39:050:39:07

Home to the Finlayson family.

0:39:100:39:12

The father, Donald, had served in the navy.

0:39:140:39:17

He fought at the Battle of Jutland.

0:39:170:39:19

His son, Norman, had elected to leave the family croft

0:39:200:39:23

to travel alone to Canada.

0:39:230:39:26

Forced to sacrifice his future to support his family

0:39:280:39:31

with the money he'd make abroad.

0:39:310:39:33

My father won a scholarship.

0:39:360:39:39

Certain young people were earmarked to go to the high school,

0:39:390:39:42

the Nicholson Institute in Stornoway,

0:39:420:39:45

and my father was one of those.

0:39:450:39:46

He turned it down, because he felt he was needed at home.

0:39:460:39:50

And then, in 1923, my father was 18 years old,

0:39:500:39:54

he and several friends walked from Brue,

0:39:540:39:57

the village they were born in,

0:39:570:39:59

into Stornoway to take the ship to Canada.

0:39:590:40:01

There is a photograph that shows all the people lined up

0:40:030:40:07

at the end of the road, if you like,

0:40:070:40:08

to say goodbye to these young men who were all leaving home.

0:40:080:40:11

I think there was probably a feeling of adventure,

0:40:110:40:14

along with the feeling that they were leaving behind

0:40:140:40:17

and maybe never seeing their families again

0:40:170:40:20

and that would have been an extremely difficult thing

0:40:200:40:22

for them to do.

0:40:220:40:24

On the afternoon of 21st April,

0:40:250:40:28

Norman Finlayson and 300 Lewis migrants

0:40:280:40:32

were ferried out to the waiting Metagama.

0:40:320:40:35

There was dancing, then prayers.

0:40:350:40:38

Every traveller was given a Gaelic Bible.

0:40:380:40:40

Like Norman, most of the migrants were single young men,

0:40:440:40:47

described in the optimistic prose of the Herald's correspondent as...

0:40:470:40:51

"Youth, pulsating with hope,

0:40:510:40:54

"setting out with confidence to conquer worlds."

0:40:540:40:58

As Norman, and the mostly Protestant passengers

0:41:000:41:02

of the Metagama left Stornoway,

0:41:020:41:04

the predominantly Catholic migrants from Barra and Lochboisdale

0:41:040:41:09

were already mid-ocean.

0:41:090:41:10

On board their ship, the Marloch,

0:41:120:41:15

fisherman Alexander, or Atoll, MacNeil was advised,

0:41:150:41:18

by his emigration agent,

0:41:180:41:20

to exaggerate the amount of money he held.

0:41:200:41:23

-LACHLAN MACNEIL:

-He told them that if you tell me that you have

0:41:230:41:28

more than you actually have,

0:41:280:41:30

it will be to your credit.

0:41:300:41:33

Atoll agreed,

0:41:340:41:36

a decision that he would come to bitterly regret.

0:41:360:41:39

On 28th April 1923,

0:41:410:41:44

13 days after leaving Lochboisdale,

0:41:440:41:46

their ship, the Marloch, made landfall in St John, New Brunswick.

0:41:460:41:51

The Metagama, from Stornoway,

0:41:520:41:54

arrived in the same port four days later.

0:41:540:41:57

Together, the two ships

0:41:590:42:01

had brought over 600 Scottish men, women and children

0:42:010:42:03

from the Hebrides to Canada.

0:42:030:42:05

That one year, 1923,

0:42:060:42:09

29,000 Scots would make that same journey.

0:42:090:42:13

Local newspapers welcomed the Hebridean arrivals,

0:42:140:42:17

described them as, "alert, rugged

0:42:170:42:20

"and experienced in farming and fishing".

0:42:200:42:23

They were also said to be rich.

0:42:240:42:26

TRAIN HOOTS

0:42:300:42:31

After almost two weeks at sea,

0:42:390:42:41

the MacNeil family, from Barra,

0:42:410:42:44

took another week to reach Alberta by rail.

0:42:440:42:47

A journey of almost 3,000 miles

0:42:520:42:55

across the Canadian prairies.

0:42:550:42:57

This photograph shows the passengers of the Marloch

0:43:010:43:04

arriving in the town of Red Deer,

0:43:040:43:07

where they were trained in the ways of Canadian farming.

0:43:070:43:12

The emigrants had been assured, time and again,

0:43:120:43:15

that they'd each be given their own farm.

0:43:150:43:18

But, after three months unpaid work,

0:43:180:43:21

there was no word of any farm.

0:43:210:43:23

Atoll MacNeil wrote to the emigration agents,

0:43:250:43:28

The Scottish Immigrant Aid Society, and asked

0:43:280:43:31

when he would receive his own promised land.

0:43:310:43:34

The reply...was devastating.

0:43:360:43:39

-LACHLAN MACNEIL:

-We received a letter back telling us

0:43:410:43:43

there was no such promise and called my father a liar.

0:43:430:43:47

And that we were quite capable of getting our own place

0:43:470:43:51

without his help.

0:43:510:43:53

The MacNeils had been caught in a web of duplicity and incompetence,

0:43:550:44:00

spun by the agents who'd inspired their journey to Canada.

0:44:000:44:04

The Scottish Immigrant Aid Society

0:44:050:44:07

was managed by a former Benedictine priest, Father Andrew MacDonnell.

0:44:070:44:11

There is a whiff of scandal that surrounds Andrew MacDonnell.

0:44:150:44:18

He had told his sub-agents in Scotland, he said,

0:44:180:44:21

"I want you to recruit 18 families

0:44:210:44:24

"and they must all have 750 to their name,

0:44:240:44:27

"so that they can make a start in farming on their own account."

0:44:270:44:31

But what his sub-agents in Scotland actually did

0:44:310:44:33

was to recruit 50 families,

0:44:330:44:35

almost half of whom were penniless,

0:44:350:44:37

and MacDonnell didn't know that they were arriving until they were there.

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With hopes of getting their own promised farm now on hold,

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the MacNeil family rented rooms in the town of Calgary.

0:44:470:44:50

Meanwhile, back on the coast,

0:44:510:44:53

the emigrants from Stornoway had encountered their own problems.

0:44:530:44:58

Norman Finlayson, the young man who had turned down a scholarship,

0:44:590:45:02

was one of almost 1,500 Scots

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whose arrival in Canada surprised everyone.

0:45:050:45:08

When they got to New Brunswick, there was no-one there to meet them,

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so this whole ship of young emigrant people

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were left on the quay and...

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no-one to meet them and they didn't know where they were going.

0:45:190:45:22

They were cold, they were tired, they were hungry.

0:45:220:45:24

Ultimately, a company representative came

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and they were sent by train to Toronto.

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My father was sent to a farm in Southern Ontario

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and he went to work there, near Orillia.

0:45:340:45:36

For four years, Anna's father worked his way through the farms

0:45:420:45:46

and mines of western Canada,

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sending money home to his parents in Lewis.

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He arrived in the city of Vancouver in 1928

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and married another Lewis emigrant, Anne MacIver.

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They were engaged for five years,

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because my father insisted on having a house built,

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and furnished, and a car before he got married.

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And he was that way all his life. He never owed a cent.

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The man whose family had been too poor to send him to school

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found great success in Canada.

0:46:210:46:23

He started the first charter flights to Scotland.

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There were enough Scottish people here that wanted to go back home

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and visit, so he set up a charter

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with a company called Ward Air, in those years.

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And they flew from Vancouver to Prestwick.

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He loved Canada, but he never forgot home.

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And they always referred to Lewis as home, yeah.

0:46:440:46:47

And he passed away in Vancouver on 21st April 1983.

0:46:510:46:55

Exactly 60 years to the day he left home.

0:46:550:46:58

His one big wish was that we would all go to school

0:46:590:47:03

and finish our education and have an opportunity

0:47:030:47:05

that he didn't have and...

0:47:050:47:09

we did that, more for him than for anybody, I think, you know?

0:47:090:47:12

I think he was given more opportunity here

0:47:130:47:15

than he would have had in Scotland in those days.

0:47:150:47:18

And I think he made the most of those opportunities

0:47:180:47:21

and he lived a very happy, very productive life.

0:47:210:47:24

Just six days before Norman had left Stornoway,

0:47:280:47:31

the MacNeil family had left Barra.

0:47:310:47:33

They'd been convinced to emigrate by their local priest.

0:47:360:47:40

They'd been cruelly let down.

0:47:400:47:41

But, in 1926,

0:47:430:47:45

they once again put their faith in Father MacDonnell

0:47:450:47:49

and his Scottish Immigrant Aid Society.

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That year, MacDonnell had taken out a mortgage of 100,000

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and bought 32,000 acres of land

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from the Canadian Pacific Railway

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and established the Scottish Catholic immigrant colony

0:48:030:48:07

of Clandonald.

0:48:070:48:08

What I'm holding here

0:48:100:48:12

is the walking stick that my great-uncle,

0:48:120:48:15

the Reverend MacDonnell, used when he came to Clandonald.

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MacDonnell's new settlement was more than twice the size of Barra,

0:48:200:48:23

the island the MacNeils had left behind.

0:48:230:48:26

They chose 100 farm sites,

0:48:270:48:30

that are shown on this map for the Clandonald colony.

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The farm sites were originally just a number.

0:48:350:48:38

The MacNeil family were located on

0:48:380:48:40

what was referred to as farm number 81.

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The land that they had there was quite rolling land.

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There were some nice, level spots for fields.

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There was a large water body that went through the middle of it

0:48:480:48:52

and does to this day.

0:48:520:48:53

In this photograph,

0:48:570:48:59

mother and father Annie and Atoll MacNeil

0:48:590:49:01

stand outside the flimsy prefabricated home

0:49:010:49:05

they shared with their sons, Lachlan and John.

0:49:050:49:08

These homes were supplied by the Stavelock Lumber Company.

0:49:100:49:15

There were 100 of them in total

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and all used in this colony area.

0:49:180:49:20

The MacNeil home has long gone,

0:49:240:49:27

but this identical cabin

0:49:270:49:28

has hardly been touched since the last settler departed.

0:49:280:49:32

These homes were built with no insulation in the wall whatsoever.

0:49:340:49:38

It's the boards and just one sheet of tar paper.

0:49:380:49:42

And that was all that was between you and the weather.

0:49:420:49:45

In the wintertime it does get very cold here.

0:49:460:49:48

Some years, some winters are up to -40 Fahrenheit.

0:49:480:49:52

And the cold was not the only hardship.

0:49:540:49:58

The settlers were obliged to pay their share

0:49:580:50:01

of Father MacDonnell's 100,000 mortgage.

0:50:010:50:04

Many struggled to cope.

0:50:060:50:07

This was not the land they had been promised in the magic lantern shows.

0:50:090:50:13

Many of those families didn't do it for themselves personally,

0:50:130:50:16

although they did benefit.

0:50:160:50:18

It was for their family and grandchildren

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that they went through what they did to come to Canada.

0:50:210:50:24

It was not an easy life

0:50:240:50:27

and it wasn't what some of the people thought it was.

0:50:270:50:30

Some, I think, had been painted a picture of much better.

0:50:300:50:33

Six years after their arrival at Clandonald,

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Lachlan MacNeil's elder brother,

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24-year-old John, fell critically ill.

0:50:420:50:45

-LACHLAN MACNEIL:

-1932 - my brother John died

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and my father wasn't in the best of health either.

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I was beginning to see the light.

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In the Fall of '40 we sold out

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and moved to Vancouver.

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Lachlan MacNeil would always insist that the Clandonald settlers

0:51:160:51:19

had been unfairly treated.

0:51:190:51:21

He blamed the emigration agents

0:51:220:51:24

who had brought his family from Scotland.

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And, in particular, he blamed Father Andrew MacDonnell.

0:51:260:51:30

My great-uncle firmly believed that what he was doing

0:51:320:51:36

was the right thing.

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And, I think, for the most part, he did do the right thing.

0:51:370:51:40

Some people may disagree, but I think, for the most part,

0:51:400:51:44

they would all agree that they were all better for what he did

0:51:440:51:47

to bring the people out here.

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Lachlan's mother and father, Annie and Atoll,

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died a few years after the family moved to Vancouver.

0:51:560:51:59

Lachlan had three children of his own.

0:52:000:52:03

Still in Vancouver,

0:52:040:52:05

they understand the hardships their father faced

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at the hands of the emigration agents.

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Every family that went there,

0:52:150:52:17

many of them encountered the same problems.

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So it wasn't just, you know, something that he thought happened.

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It definitely did happen.

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And they were promised things that never came through.

0:52:250:52:29

THEY CHATTER

0:52:290:52:32

Why did he emigrate? I remember Dad talking about the weather.

0:52:320:52:35

-The weather or something.

-Yeah.

0:52:350:52:37

-And coming to a better life.

-And, yeah, just coming to a better life.

0:52:370:52:41

Lachlan worked for the Canadian Steel Company

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and three times he returned to the island of his birth.

0:52:430:52:47

Somebody once said to me, when I was there 11 years ago,

0:52:480:52:52

that, when all of those people left,

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a lot of the dreams left with them -

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they were the dreamers that left.

0:52:560:52:58

They were the ones that wanted to...

0:52:580:53:00

er...kind of do more.

0:53:000:53:03

This picture here. This would be dad's last trip to Barra.

0:53:030:53:07

-Oh, yeah?

-Yeah.

0:53:070:53:08

It wasn't all easy for them and he was a very proud man

0:53:080:53:12

and he...he made a very good life for his family.

0:53:120:53:16

PHONE KEYS BEEP

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One positive from the great exodus of the 1920s

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is that it helped create a Scotland

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where almost every family has a relative abroad.

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DIALLING TONE

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Hello, Angus.

0:53:300:53:32

Hello, Ann!

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It's lovely to talk to you.

0:53:340:53:35

Lovely talking to you too. It's been quite a while.

0:53:350:53:39

Lachlan died in 1991.

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Almost a lifetime before, here in Tangasdale,

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he had watched his father, Atoll,

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share a tearful whisky with Angus's great-grandfather, Donald,

0:53:480:53:52

the night before the family had boarded the emigrant ship,

0:53:520:53:55

the Marloch.

0:53:550:53:56

Their descendants would come to prosper in Canada,

0:53:580:54:01

but, across the Hebrides, across Scotland,

0:54:010:54:04

there remains an anger...

0:54:040:54:06

..that, in the years after the Great War,

0:54:080:54:11

emigration seemed the only option.

0:54:110:54:14

I think it would have been better if they tried to keep them here

0:54:140:54:17

and there are other areas of northern Europe

0:54:170:54:19

where this didn't happen at all.

0:54:190:54:21

I suppose Britain felt it had an empire to fill.

0:54:210:54:23

And who'd be better than the Scots Highlanders and Islanders

0:54:230:54:26

to go along to the toughest parts, and they were Canada.

0:54:260:54:29

So I think they were used in many ways, the people,

0:54:290:54:32

and that's annoying and it's sad.

0:54:320:54:34

The Scottish exodus of the 1920s had been fuelled by poor housing,

0:54:390:54:43

a stalling economy

0:54:430:54:45

and by men and women who wanted a better future

0:54:450:54:48

for their children.

0:54:480:54:49

Most controversially, it had also been fuelled

0:54:500:54:53

by false promises and government money.

0:54:530:54:56

The £3 million a year that had been made available

0:54:590:55:02

for Empire Settlement Funding seemed to be

0:55:020:55:04

a counsel of despair for some people.

0:55:040:55:06

And the argument was, why can't this money be used

0:55:060:55:09

in Scotland on forestry, commercial fishing,

0:55:090:55:14

hydroelectric schemes, industrial investment?

0:55:140:55:18

Why spend money sending people away?

0:55:180:55:20

That money could be invested at home

0:55:200:55:23

in making the population productive.

0:55:230:55:26

A lack of investment and a lack of imagination

0:55:280:55:31

had paralysed post-war Scotland.

0:55:310:55:34

Nowhere more so than the Highlands and Islands,

0:55:340:55:38

where the failure to provide land

0:55:380:55:40

had led impoverished families to seek it out overseas.

0:55:400:55:43

Young people are denied opportunity,

0:55:450:55:48

even in their own country

0:55:480:55:50

and they have to go elsewhere to find it.

0:55:500:55:52

And that's a pretty awful state of affairs.

0:55:520:55:55

And the kind of psychological, cultural impact of that,

0:55:550:56:01

I think on Scotland, overall,

0:56:010:56:04

and certainly on the Highlands and Islands, was pretty devastating.

0:56:040:56:07

For Scotland's most remote communities,

0:56:110:56:13

the 1920s would be remembered as a time of missed opportunities,

0:56:130:56:18

when the questions of who owns Scotland's land

0:56:180:56:21

and to what purpose were left to another generation.

0:56:210:56:26

In 1918, Angus Gillies had come back from the dead

0:56:270:56:31

and won a lottery to secure the tenancy on his promised land -

0:56:310:56:36

the family croft at Galson.

0:56:360:56:37

Baron Leverhulme had offered Angus and his fellow crofters

0:56:390:56:42

outright ownership of their land -

0:56:420:56:45

a risk they'd lacked the confidence to take.

0:56:450:56:48

But 90 years after Angus came back from the war,

0:56:500:56:53

his granddaughter was at the centre

0:56:530:56:55

of a government-assisted community buyout

0:56:550:56:58

that finally put Galson in the hands

0:56:580:57:00

of the people who live and work there.

0:57:000:57:02

Here we are now

0:57:040:57:06

and this community owns this land.

0:57:060:57:10

And, for me, that is a circle

0:57:100:57:13

that's very, very important to have closed.

0:57:130:57:16

And, I must say, I wonder how

0:57:160:57:18

my grandfather and that generation

0:57:180:57:21

would have thought about that,

0:57:210:57:23

how they would have responded to that.

0:57:230:57:25

I think they would have felt good about it.

0:57:250:57:28

Galson is just one of the many schemes that has placed land

0:57:320:57:36

in the control of the people who live on it.

0:57:360:57:39

The buyout cost the Scottish government £600,000 -

0:57:400:57:43

a considerable sum,

0:57:450:57:48

but a mere fraction of the public money spent in the 1920s

0:57:480:57:52

sending Scottish men and women overseas.

0:57:520:57:55

In the next and final film...

0:58:020:58:04

a cultural revolution, a Scottish renaissance.

0:58:040:58:09

A band of revolutionary writers and artists

0:58:090:58:12

mount an explosive rearguard action

0:58:120:58:15

to portray their country in a language

0:58:150:58:18

free from sentiment, free from tired music hall parody.

0:58:180:58:21

A battle for a noble cause

0:58:230:58:25

to find the voice of Scotland's people.

0:58:250:58:28

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