Power Struggles The Story of Wales


Power Struggles

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It is 700 AD.

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This rugged western peninsula of Britain

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is home to tribes and warlords.

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Any idea of Wales as we know it doesn't exist.

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But over the next centuries, a nation emerges.

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This is a story of tribal warfare,

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of princes and power struggles

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and foreign invaders.

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So how does all that create one country

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with its own distinct culture and identity?

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In this Story Of Wales,

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we cover seven centuries

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from the building of a great frontier

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to Owain Glyndwr and his bitter struggle for independence.

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We'll see how battles against invaders

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bring a flourishing of Welsh culture.

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And the emergence of our first parliament.

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We'll meet the medieval kings who shaped the destiny of Wales.

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And discover how a nation emerges from their hunger for power

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and their lust for land.

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The struggle for Wales begins here on the modern border with England.

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Britain in the eighth century is a patchwork

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of independent kingdoms run by warlords,

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all of them scrambling

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and jostling for power and for land.

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Wales doesn't exist.

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But the land we call Wales today is also a group of kingdoms.

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And the Britons who live in them are under pressure,

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under threat from the east, from the Anglo-Saxons.

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Anglo-Saxon warriors are busy expanding the Kingdom of Mercia.

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Their settlements encroach on the farmland of the Welsh tribes.

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In 750 AD, this is Wales.

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Gwynedd in the north is protected by

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the impenetrable mountains of Snowdonia.

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But the lowlands of Powys and South East Wales are exposed to Mercia.

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It is the warriors of Powys that retaliate most violently.

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They mount brutal raids to reclaim what used to be theirs.

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They're destroying crops and settlements.

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The locals are fleeing in terror and what is left isn't resettled.

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It just lies empty and barren.

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Because in the middle of the eighth century,

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this place is full of danger.

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The border between the Welsh tribes and Mercia is no man's land.

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The situation is out of control.

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It is so bad that the King of Mercia decides to take drastic action.

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He commissions the biggest engineering project of the age.

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And this is it.

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He decides to build a massive defensive wall

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to keep those troublesome neighbours under control.

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We know it as Offa's Dyke.

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An earthwork over 80 miles long,

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it runs along much of the modern English-Welsh border.

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Because it was added to over time by other rulers,

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it now extends from near Wrexham in the north

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all the way down to Chepstow in the south.

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It is Britain's longest ancient monument.

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Nothing of this size was built for a thousand years

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until the canals of the 18th century.

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It's the sheer scale of this work that's difficult to take in.

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When you think of the manpower involved,

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the money involved and all the effort,

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it does tell you that King Offa must have been a very determined man.

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And just think about the equivalent today, in the 21st century,

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a colossal work like this.

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Well, you're talking tens of billions of pounds.

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But the essence of the dyke is its aspect.

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It faces west and it gives the Mercians

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the perfect vantage point to keep an eye on the Welsh.

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In the eighth century, Wales has never known a boundary on this scale.

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The marking out of large territorial borders is a whole new concept.

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For the many kingdoms of Wales,

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Offa's Dyke will influence the way they see themselves.

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There's a psychological impact.

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And from the early middle ages onwards, the people over there,

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the Mercians, future invaders...

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Well, they're the people beyond the dyke.

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And on this side, the Welsh see themselves

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as the people behind the dyke.

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And I suppose this could give us our first possible notion of Welsh unity.

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But who are the people behind the dyke?

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In 800 AD, Wales is home to fewer than a 100,000 souls.

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This small population shares a common language, they speak Old Welsh,

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and call themselves Cymry, or fellow countrymen.

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Most families are poor, living with their livestock in isolated farms.

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There are no stone buildings and no towns.

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The Cymry are defenceless against the ravages of war,

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disease and the whims of their wealthier masters -

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the warlords or local kings, who will shape the future of Wales.

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They'll do it by betrayal,

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or bribery

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or by the sword.

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But what do we know about these kings and how they lived?

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This is Llangorse Lake, near the Brecon Beacons in South Wales.

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These days, this lake is all about leisure,

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campsites and boats for hire.

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Well, 1,100 years ago, this is the heart of a small kingdom,

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the Kingdom of Brycheiniog.

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This small island here is home to the Royal family.

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And the treasures they leave behind lie hidden

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until they're discovered just 20 years ago.

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What archaeologists find in the 1990s gives us a surprising insight

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into this early Welsh kingdom.

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It reveals a Royal Palace with international connections.

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The first clues were investigated by Dr Alan Lane.

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The timbers are visible in the water around the island

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and people have noticed them for centuries.

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And when we visited the site initially

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it was quite clear

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that they were artificial.

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They had been deliberately constructed.

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And so, we realised that what we were looking at

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was what's called a crannog,

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that's an artificial island.

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Alan and his team discovered that the crannog

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was built of brushwood and rubble piled up to reach above water level.

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On top, they found the remains of a medieval settlement.

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It was once home to the Royal family.

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Reconstructed, this is what it may have looked like.

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A wooden fortification encloses a village,

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a village for the king, his family and their entourage.

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This is where he administers his kingdom

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and entertains his guests.

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But most remarkable is the fact that

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this is the only crannog ever found in Wales or England.

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Now, these are very well-known in both Scotland and Ireland,

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where there are hundreds of examples.

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But the likelihood is this is an Irish master builder

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who's been brought in by the local king to construct the site.

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By building a crannog, the king is showing off his Irish ancestry

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and his connections beyond his borders.

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The crannog is a status symbol.

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But there's one particular treasure at Llangorse

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that reveals the Royal family have links

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even further afield than Ireland.

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The archaeologists discovered a fragment of linen

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embroidered in silk,

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believed to have been part of the Queen's tunic.

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It's the design that's intriguing.

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This is a reconstruction of part of the pattern,

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computer enhanced, and the colours obviously are partly speculative.

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We know they're lions, because we can compare them

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with much clearer examples found in Eastern Mediterranean,

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and from Persia and Central Asia.

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This is an extremely fine textile, high-class workmanship.

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And the decorative pattern, the embroidery is in silk,

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which has to be imported from Eastern Mediterranean at closest,

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and possibly from somewhere on the silk route back to China.

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We tend to think of this early medieval time

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as a dark age,

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when life isn't civilised at all.

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Well, forget all of that.

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Because what Llangorse tells us

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is that these Welsh aristocrats are sophisticated people.

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They hire Irish architects,

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they import luxury goods from the other side of the world!

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These rulers behind the dyke are living in a connected world,

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that's the important thing.

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They have power, they have wealth,

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and let's face it - some rather nice real estate too.

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Despite the protection that the lake provides,

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royal life at Llangorse is cut short.

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Within 20 years of being built,

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Anglo-Saxons attack and the settlement is destroyed.

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By 916 AD, this Royal Palace is no more.

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The discoveries at Llangorse are a tantalising glimpse

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into a Welsh kingdom from an almost lost medieval world.

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Life in medieval Wales can be very dangerous and brutally short.

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It's a constant battle for survival.

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A battle against foreign enemies and an endless round of internal warfare,

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bitter feuding and broken alliances.

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The land behind the dyke is very fragmented,

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but it's a very attractive prospect to any determined opportunist.

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The first opportunist to emerge

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from the wild frontiers of early medieval Wales

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is the king of Gwynedd -

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Rhodri ap Merfyn.

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What little we know of him

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comes from a few sentences written by an Irish scholar.

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In the ninth century, Rhodri becomes

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the biggest figure behind the dyke.

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But not without a bit of scheming.

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First his uncle, the ruler of Powys,

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goes on a pilgrimage to Rome and drops dead on the way.

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So in 855, Rhodri takes Powys for himself.

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And then 20 years later, the ruler of Seisyllwg,

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that's the region of Ceredigion,

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suffers an accidental death by drowning.

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So what does Rhodri do?

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He swiftly marries into that family

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and expands his kingdom once again.

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Plotting and playing dirty make him ruler of most of Wales.

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For the first time, lands from north to south are united under one leader.

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And this makes Rhodri a new breed of king.

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He gets a new title.

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He is known as Rhodri Mawr - Rhodri the Great.

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All thanks to his military prowess

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in his dealings with a brutal new enemy.

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The Vikings.

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From their base in Dublin, they arrive from across the Irish Sea.

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They terrorise the locals and plunder the coastline.

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In 856, Rhodri stands up to them in battle.

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When he encounters Ormr,

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the leader of a band of Viking raiders in Anglesey,

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he kills him.

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Rhodri is keeping the Vikings at bay.

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But the story of the Vikings in Wales isn't only one of raids and battles.

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On the Anglesey Coast, near the village of Llanbedrgoch,

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archaeological remains reveal a more complex relationship

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between the Welsh and these settlers from Scandinavia.

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What Doctor Mark Redknap and his team discovered

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lies beneath this field.

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We're standing on the perimeter

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of a remarkable early medieval settlement.

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The archaeology conducted here has really changed

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our perception of early medieval Wales in the Viking age.

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You can imagine it starts off

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as a farm with an enclosure ditch around it.

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What is significant though is that

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in the second half of tenth century,

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this earth defensive work is replaced with a massive stone wall.

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Mark and his team unearthed an impenetrable wall,

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two metres thick and over three metres high.

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It's all designed to defend the farm inside.

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This medieval settlement had something valuable to protect.

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When the archaeologists excavated inside the walls,

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they uncovered coins,

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and weights

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and pieces of silver.

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Llanbedrgoch is more than just a farm.

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It is medieval market full of wheeling and dealing.

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The fact that we found these fragments of silver on the site

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indicates that some of the trading was taking place

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within the defended enclosure.

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And one can imagine various commodities being haggled over,

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it may have been hides, it may have been oxen.

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We don't quite know what was being traded.

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But who exactly was trading here over a thousand years ago?

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Silver arm bands found nearby have Viking designs,

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like those found all around the Viking world.

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All together, the discoveries at Llanbedrgoch

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are proof that Wales and people from Scandinavia

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are trading with each other.

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For many years, it was assumed that Scandinavians

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or, at least, raiding Vikings

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were unsuccessful at establishing a foothold in Wales.

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But with Llanbedrgoch, this has transformed our knowledge,

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cos we can now link it culturally to this trading social network

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operating around the Irish Sea in a much broader sense.

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In the tenth century, Anglesey is part of a vibrant trading network

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linked to Viking settlements around the Irish Sea.

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But there is one grisly discovery at Llanbedrgoch

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that still puzzles archaeologists.

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Mark's team uncovered five skeletons - three adults and two children.

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All seem to have been dumped into a pit outside the perimeter wall.

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Were they the victims of a raid?

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Were they friend or foe?

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How did they die?

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What we do know is that analysis of their bones

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indicates that they are not native to Wales.

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Four of them grew up in Scandinavia.

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Whatever the reason they died here in Anglesey,

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it's clear that tenth-century Wales is connected to the Viking world,

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both in combat AND in business.

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But the lesson in this world is that if you want to survive,

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you will strike a deal with the enemy.

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Politics is ruled by economics.

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And in the chaos of survival, what we see is the Welsh kings

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changing loyalties from time to time.

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And one of those kings does that to great effect.

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His name is Hywel Dda -

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Hywel the Good.

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Like his grandfather, Rhodri Mawr,

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he is both lucky and ambitious during his reign.

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First, he marries the daughter of the King of Dyfed.

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And when the king dies,

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he inherits his land.

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With the demise of other Welsh kings, Hywel seizes the moment

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and takes Powys and Gwynedd too.

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By 942 AD, Hywel rules three-quarters of Wales.

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But Hywel's kingdom is under threat.

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There are Vikings to the west and Anglo-Saxons to the east.

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So to stay in power, he does a deal with the enemy.

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What Hywel does is certainly clever and strategic,

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but in some eyes,

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it is also a betrayal of his fellow Cymry or Welshmen.

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Because he forms an alliance with an enemy -

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the King of Wessex, Aethelstan.

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And he wants all the kings of Briton to pay homage to him

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and to pay taxes to him.

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And that is what Hywel agrees to do.

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20 pounds of gold,

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300 pounds of silver,

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25,000 cattle.

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It's a huge gamble by Hywel.

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And he's hoping that this will help to protect his status.

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And he gambles further.

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When the Vikings, Scots and Celts join forces

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to drive out the Anglo-Saxons from Britain once and for all,

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Hywel is the only leader who stands aside.

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The gamble pays off.

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The Anglo-Saxons win, so Hywel and his kingdom are secure.

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So what do we make of Hywel's actions?

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Is he motivated purely by blatant self interest

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and nothing more redeeming?

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It's not clear. What is clear is that this is a significant moment

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for those people who live behind the dyke,

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and they find themselves increasingly cut off from their Celtic cousins

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in the rest of Britain, especially the north.

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So Hywel's reputation is still open to question,

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but that's about to change.

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It isn't for military prowess that he is known as Hywel the Good.

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He earns that title for giving Wales its first written laws.

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Devised more than a thousand years ago,

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they are kept here at the National Library in Aberystwyth.

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Historian Sara Elin Roberts has spent her career

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studying 13th century copies of the laws,

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written in Latin and in medieval Welsh.

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The Welsh law is preserved in around 40 manuscripts.

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They're dealing with every aspect that the law wants to cover,

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so they're dealing with the king,

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they are dealing with peasants

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and their rights, peoples rights,

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injury, compensation for injury,

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homicide, theft,

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arson, you name it.

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If there's a law for it,

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the aim was to include it in the book,

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which is why the books are quite lengthy.

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It's thought that before Hywel's law,

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each kingdom had its own customs.

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But Hywel's is the first official set of laws for all of Wales.

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The problem is we can't even be sure

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that the story of how these laws came to be is true.

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What the Welsh law books tell us is that Hywel gathers a group of experts

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from all over Wales and brings them to his palace at Whitland,

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where they spend all of Lent constructing this new body of law.

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Trouble is, there is no official record of this legal summit

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in any of the chronicles.

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But of all the early Welsh kings,

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Hywel is the one with the stature

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and the benefit of a peaceful reign

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to put Welsh law in order.

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These first Welsh laws are comprehensive

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and full of common sense.

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Most remarkable is the emphasis on reconciliation

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when it comes to matters of crime.

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The Welsh laws are very modern

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in their attitude to crime and punishment.

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You often these days hear the term compensation culture.

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Well, this is what you have in medieval Wales.

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Rather than physical punishments,

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whipping, hanging, eye for an eye and all of that,

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what you have is compensation.

0:23:000:23:03

Instead of suffering capital punishment,

0:23:030:23:06

a murderer and his family for the next seven generations

0:23:060:23:09

have to pay a murder price to the kin of the deceased.

0:23:090:23:12

A sense of fairness runs through much of Hywel's law,

0:23:120:23:15

including how it deals with the rights of women.

0:23:150:23:19

Women did appear to have more independence

0:23:190:23:22

than they would in other countries.

0:23:220:23:24

In medieval Wales, marriage was split into two periods.

0:23:240:23:27

The first seven years was a sort of trial period,

0:23:270:23:29

and after seven years if the couple wanted to separate,

0:23:290:23:32

they could do so quite freely

0:23:320:23:34

and the goods would be split half and half.

0:23:340:23:36

And there are lists in the law books saying who gets what,

0:23:360:23:39

which gives women some independence.

0:23:390:23:41

They wouldn't be left destitute,

0:23:410:23:44

they would get something if the marriage didn't work out.

0:23:440:23:47

Even today, these first laws of Wales seem advanced

0:23:490:23:53

and different to other European laws of that time.

0:23:530:23:57

They are a sign of a distinct culture.

0:23:570:24:00

These laws are central to the story of Wales.

0:24:000:24:03

They show that, from a very early period,

0:24:030:24:06

Wales wasn't a primitive society, it was a sophisticated society.

0:24:060:24:09

They're also very important as a unifying factor in Wales,

0:24:090:24:14

because what you have is a collection of kingdoms,

0:24:140:24:17

each with their own king doing their own thing,

0:24:170:24:19

but it seems that they were all subject to one law,

0:24:190:24:22

the Law Of Hywel.

0:24:220:24:23

And it could be argued that the laws were the one unifying factor

0:24:240:24:27

in early medieval Wales.

0:24:270:24:30

For centuries to come, living under the Law Of Hywel

0:24:330:24:37

would be one of the defining features of the Welsh people.

0:24:370:24:41

But, despite sharing the same law,

0:24:450:24:48

the tenth-century kingdoms of Wales are still at odds with each other,

0:24:480:24:52

and at war with their Anglo-Saxon neighbours.

0:24:520:24:55

But a new European Wales will emerge from its next great struggle.

0:24:570:25:02

Anglo-Saxons and their way of life are swiftly and coldly

0:25:120:25:16

being swept aside by the Normans.

0:25:160:25:19

William the Conqueror, from France,

0:25:190:25:22

and his unstoppable military machine have arrived.

0:25:220:25:25

And he has Wales in his sights.

0:25:250:25:27

Building castles is the Norman way of taking control.

0:25:290:25:34

Within 24 years of arriving in the British Isles,

0:25:340:25:37

they've completed the Great Tower of Chepstow Castle

0:25:370:25:40

overlooking the River Wye.

0:25:400:25:42

They have taken command of the gateway to South Wales.

0:25:460:25:49

The Norman world that descends on the doorstep of the Welsh

0:25:490:25:53

is alien and threatening.

0:25:530:25:56

We know what it's like to be crushed by Norman power,

0:25:560:26:00

because we have accounts from that time.

0:26:000:26:02

The writer Rhygyfarch talks about free necks

0:26:020:26:06

submitting to the yoke,

0:26:060:26:07

righteous hands branded with hot iron,

0:26:070:26:11

men and women being mutilated.

0:26:110:26:13

We've not known anything like this

0:26:130:26:15

since the days of the Roman invasion.

0:26:150:26:18

But Wales proves difficult to invade and tricky to control.

0:26:220:26:28

It's a very different prospect from the Anglo-Saxon lands

0:26:280:26:32

the Normans have just conquered.

0:26:320:26:34

It's wild and it's mountainous.

0:26:360:26:40

It doesn't have one leader to overthrow but many.

0:26:400:26:44

This time, the Welsh lack of unity is an advantage.

0:26:440:26:49

So the Norman attempt to conquer is rather piecemeal.

0:26:500:26:54

It will take 200 years.

0:26:540:26:57

The strongholds the Normans set up in Wales

0:27:000:27:03

are known as the Welsh marches

0:27:030:27:05

or Marchia Wallia.

0:27:050:27:07

Run by Norman lords, these are bastions for raiding land

0:27:080:27:12

and for suppressing the locals.

0:27:120:27:14

While territory in the west is considered Wales Proper

0:27:140:27:18

or Pura Wallia.

0:27:180:27:20

After the Normans came, Wales is divided into two different areas.

0:27:220:27:26

There was the areas

0:27:260:27:27

of the Marcher Lordships, where Welsh people would have lost

0:27:270:27:30

all their rights and privileges

0:27:300:27:32

and some of their lands.

0:27:320:27:33

The laws of Hywel Dda would have been superseded by Norman laws,

0:27:330:27:37

they'd have had to pay taxes and respect different authority.

0:27:370:27:41

Much of Wales remained in the possession of the Welsh princes

0:27:410:27:45

and the systems would have remained the same there.

0:27:450:27:48

But they would have constantly been under threat

0:27:480:27:51

from Norman expansion trying to take their lands away from them.

0:27:510:27:54

So life changed significantly in both parts of Wales.

0:27:540:27:58

But the Welsh retained their identity in some areas

0:27:580:28:01

and had their identity taken away in others.

0:28:010:28:04

These are very hard times,

0:28:060:28:08

no doubt about that,

0:28:080:28:10

but it's not all negative.

0:28:100:28:12

A big world has come to Wales with new ideas,

0:28:120:28:16

new ways of building, new ways of creating wealth.

0:28:160:28:20

And here we have a key theme in our story.

0:28:200:28:23

The big influence from outside is crucial to us.

0:28:230:28:26

The population grows as the Welsh marches are colonised

0:28:300:28:34

by the Normans and their English subjects.

0:28:340:28:38

And the Normans encourage other foreigners to settle in the south.

0:28:380:28:43

Wales is becoming cosmopolitan.

0:28:440:28:48

I think before the Normans came,

0:28:490:28:52

Wales was still part of a Celtic world focused around the Irish Sea

0:28:520:28:56

in terms of its religion, its family connections,

0:28:560:28:59

its economy.

0:28:590:29:00

But after the Normans came and started to settle Wales,

0:29:000:29:02

those horizons changed.

0:29:020:29:05

They were looking much further afield.

0:29:050:29:07

And Welsh princes started to wish to be European princes.

0:29:070:29:11

And in the 12th century, that is exactly what they become.

0:29:110:29:15

There is one young leader in the Kingdom of Deheubarth,

0:29:220:29:25

here in South West Wales in 12th century,

0:29:250:29:28

who knows full well that

0:29:280:29:30

the only way to survive in the battle with the Normans is to be cunning,

0:29:300:29:34

to adopt new ways.

0:29:340:29:36

The Lord Rhys is a young nobleman.

0:29:390:29:41

A teenager who wants to play the Normans

0:29:410:29:43

at their own game by using armour...

0:29:430:29:46

..and cavalry

0:29:490:29:50

and building seven stone castles right across South Wales.

0:29:500:29:56

Dinefwr Castle will become the nerve centre for his powerful dynasty.

0:29:560:30:01

The Lord Rhys starts young.

0:30:050:30:06

Orphaned at 14,

0:30:060:30:08

he creates havoc for the Anglo Norman king, Henry II.

0:30:080:30:13

Henry is a busy king.

0:30:150:30:17

He has his hands full, wresting back control from barons

0:30:170:30:21

who threaten his position in Ireland.

0:30:210:30:23

In Wales, over a period of 26 years,

0:30:260:30:28

Lord Rhys stirs up rebellions, raids land, burns enemy castles

0:30:280:30:34

and claws back power from the Marcher lords.

0:30:340:30:37

Hostages are continually taken on both sides.

0:30:390:30:43

I suppose we can say that here's a leader who makes Henry II

0:30:460:30:50

and the Norman barons sit up and take notice of Wales.

0:30:500:30:53

Lord Rhys' years of onslaught prove too much for Henry,

0:30:550:30:59

who's busy dealing with Ireland.

0:30:590:31:01

He hasn't time to deal with this troublesome Welsh leader.

0:31:010:31:06

So he decides to give ground.

0:31:060:31:08

Henry decides to let Rhys keep some of those conquered lands

0:31:100:31:13

and he frees his hostage son.

0:31:130:31:16

In return, this is the crucial part,

0:31:160:31:19

Rhys acknowledges Henry as his overlord.

0:31:190:31:22

And the result is that the Lord Rhys transforms himself

0:31:220:31:26

from troublesome rebel to honourable ally.

0:31:260:31:29

He's even appointed Justice of South Wales.

0:31:290:31:32

That really is a position of responsibility.

0:31:320:31:35

And by 1171, the Lord Rhys is acknowledged as Supreme Ruler

0:31:350:31:41

of South and West Wales.

0:31:410:31:42

While much of Wales is still divided,

0:31:450:31:47

Lord Rhys is its most successful leader.

0:31:470:31:50

His power recognised by Welsh and English alike.

0:31:500:31:54

Now he takes command of castles that will secure his borders.

0:31:540:31:58

They stretch across his kingdom from Dinefwr to Cardigan.

0:31:580:32:02

13th century Deheubarth glitters with Lord Rhys' lime-washed castles.

0:32:030:32:09

Aside from his success with the Normans,

0:32:100:32:12

Lord Rhys is known for two other reasons.

0:32:120:32:16

Firstly as a philanderer.

0:32:160:32:19

He has nine sons and eight daughters

0:32:190:32:21

even fathering illegitimate children by his own niece.

0:32:210:32:24

And secondly for starting a revival of Welsh culture.

0:32:240:32:28

In 1176 at Cardigan, he hosts a major festival

0:32:280:32:33

based on French traditions.

0:32:330:32:36

It's considered to be Wales' first Eisteddfod.

0:32:360:32:40

Well, with an impressive network of castles

0:32:400:32:44

and generous sponsorship of poetry and music,

0:32:440:32:48

Lord Rhys is responsible for a real blossoming of Welsh culture.

0:32:480:32:53

It stands proudly in that European tradition.

0:32:530:32:56

But the most enduring legacy of that revival

0:32:560:32:59

is to put Wales into the greatest European club of all.

0:32:590:33:04

These are the remains of Strata Florida,

0:33:100:33:13

One of the most important abbeys in Wales'.

0:33:130:33:16

It lies in a rural and isolated spot in the heart of Ceredigion.

0:33:180:33:22

In the 12th century it is run by monks, from Burgundy in France.

0:33:250:33:30

They're known as the Cistercians.

0:33:300:33:33

Famed for their white robes, hard work and simple life,

0:33:330:33:36

they are the latest must-have for any medieval king.

0:33:360:33:40

Janet Burton is a historian

0:33:410:33:43

who can tell me why the Lord Rhys became the abbey's main patron.

0:33:430:33:48

First and foremost, rulers like the Lord Rhys

0:33:480:33:51

wanted to have their own community of monks to pray for them.

0:33:510:33:55

It was a violent age.

0:33:550:33:57

They were aware that they might need that bit of help.

0:33:570:34:00

On the straight to salvation.

0:34:000:34:01

And that was what he wanted from a community of monks.

0:34:010:34:06

But there are other benefits for Welsh leaders.

0:34:060:34:09

The Cistercians are Wales' first international order of monks,

0:34:090:34:13

well-connected across the Continent,

0:34:130:34:16

from France and Spain to Eastern Europe.

0:34:160:34:19

Strata Florida is taken over by Rhys

0:34:190:34:22

at a time when his power is on the increase.

0:34:220:34:24

He's very much trying to fulfil territorial ambitions.

0:34:240:34:28

This is about his prestige, his power his authority.

0:34:280:34:31

And in backing the Cistercian monks

0:34:310:34:34

he's putting himself on an equal footing with other European rulers.

0:34:340:34:40

Over the next century,

0:34:420:34:43

Welsh rulers establish 14 Cistercian monasteries.

0:34:430:34:47

And because Cistercian abbots visit France each year

0:34:470:34:51

there's a constant exchange of ideas

0:34:510:34:53

with this well-connected, European club.

0:34:530:34:56

And this place itself, not just a centre of prayer

0:34:570:35:02

but an industrial centre too.

0:35:020:35:05

Yes, everything that would have surrounded the monastery within the precinct

0:35:050:35:09

would have been geared up towards economic activities.

0:35:090:35:12

Workshops, wool sheds, keeping of horses, cows,

0:35:120:35:17

arable farming, fishing - a huge range of economic activity.

0:35:170:35:21

-It was big business.

-It was big business, yes.

0:35:210:35:23

In fact, the writer Gerald of Wales, in the late 12th Century,

0:35:230:35:27

remarked of the Cistercians

0:35:270:35:29

that if you give them a wilderness and go away for a year and come back,

0:35:290:35:33

they will have transformed it.

0:35:330:35:35

Transformed the wilderness into what he called a smiling plenty.

0:35:350:35:39

So, economic transformation of the area.

0:35:390:35:41

The Welsh Cistercians have ready cash, they're farmers,

0:35:430:35:47

traders and merchants and they make the land prosper.

0:35:470:35:52

Strata Florida grows to 80,000 acres,

0:35:520:35:54

Wales' largest monastic estate and the jewel in its medieval crown.

0:35:540:36:00

What we have at Strata Florida is a vibrant community.

0:36:040:36:08

Yes, it's a house of prayer but it's much more than that.

0:36:080:36:12

It's a major centre of Welsh learning and culture.

0:36:120:36:16

And we have to see Strata Florida in a much a wider context,

0:36:160:36:20

not Welsh, not British, but European.

0:36:200:36:24

And when you see this glorious archway

0:36:240:36:27

you have the clearest evidence of the European influence

0:36:270:36:30

in medieval Wales.

0:36:300:36:31

The Cistercians aren't just a boon to the status and economy of Wales.

0:36:460:36:51

They also help cement the growing sense of a Welsh identity.

0:36:510:36:55

Because the monks are literate.

0:36:550:36:58

On animal skins they write down Welsh poems,

0:36:580:37:01

document daily life and record our history.

0:37:010:37:04

The work rate is astonishing.

0:37:040:37:06

The monks fill entire libraries with their books.

0:37:060:37:10

This is the site of the library at Strata Florida.

0:37:100:37:13

It was packed with volumes made of goat skin,

0:37:130:37:16

priceless records of Welsh life.

0:37:160:37:18

Their most important achievement is Brut y Tywysogion.

0:37:220:37:26

The chronicle of the princes.

0:37:260:37:28

This is a tale of Welsh history that starts in 682

0:37:300:37:34

and spans six centuries.

0:37:340:37:37

It tells of eclipses of the sun, plagues and earthquakes

0:37:380:37:44

and records royal births and deaths.

0:37:440:37:48

Before all this much of the story of our past

0:37:490:37:52

is preserved in popular memory or in some decaying documents.

0:37:520:37:57

But now for the first time, thanks to the Cistercians,

0:37:570:38:00

we have a proper written history preserved for the people.

0:38:000:38:04

In effect, it's our first national archive.

0:38:040:38:07

The Cistercians are part of the fabric of Welsh life

0:38:110:38:15

and they consolidate Welsh culture and history,

0:38:150:38:18

making it real and tangible.

0:38:180:38:21

Medieval Wales has its own language, its own laws

0:38:210:38:24

and now a preserved history

0:38:240:38:26

with a growing sense of its cultural heritage.

0:38:260:38:29

But any sense of a Welsh nation doesn't exist.

0:38:340:38:38

And by the 12th century,

0:38:410:38:42

the Welsh have witnessed the violent reigns of over 100 kings.

0:38:420:38:48

As time passes, the title of king, or Rex in Latin,

0:38:480:38:53

becomes a little devalued.

0:38:530:38:55

There had been so many kings!

0:38:550:38:57

Leaders prefer the title of Prince,

0:38:570:39:00

based on the Latin for principle ruler.

0:39:000:39:02

And it's in the 13th century that this notion of uniting Wales

0:39:020:39:07

under one leader starts to gather force.

0:39:070:39:10

That leader will be called Prince of Wales.

0:39:100:39:13

One ruler from Gwynedd is the only Welshman

0:39:250:39:28

who is ever recognised by England, as Prince of Wales.

0:39:280:39:33

He is Llywelyn ap Gruffydd, better known as Llywelyn the Last.

0:39:330:39:38

This story of Wales is all about discovery.

0:39:400:39:44

I'm on a country lane above the village of Abergwyngregyn,

0:39:440:39:48

overlooking the Menai Straits.

0:39:480:39:50

I'm in search of a place that in all likelihood

0:39:500:39:54

is one of the most significant sites in the history of Wales.

0:39:540:39:57

And yet it is relatively unknown.

0:39:570:40:00

And here it is.

0:40:050:40:07

This is Pen y Bryn, it's now privately owned.

0:40:070:40:11

Archaeologists tell us that parts of this building date back to 1200.

0:40:110:40:17

And there is a growing body of evidence now to suggest,

0:40:170:40:21

at one stage, this was the home of Llywelyn Fawr, Llywelyn the Great,

0:40:210:40:26

who ruled for 46 years, and of his grandson, Llywelyn ap Gruffydd.

0:40:260:40:31

Llywelyn ap Gruffydd is a bold man, taking command of much of Wales

0:40:310:40:36

and capturing land from English lords.

0:40:360:40:39

His opponent, the English King Henry III is a weak and unpopular monarch.

0:40:390:40:45

After struggling with years of civil war in England

0:40:450:40:47

he is willing to listen to Llywelyn.

0:40:470:40:50

It's late in the summer of 1267 when Henry's men

0:40:500:40:55

and Llywelyn's men hold a summit meeting in Shrewsbury.

0:40:550:40:59

It lasts for four days,

0:40:590:41:01

and some of the most notable people of the time are present,

0:41:010:41:04

including the Pope's envoy, and what they're after is a deal

0:41:040:41:07

which defines Llywelyn's power in Wales.

0:41:070:41:11

And it turns out to be a very significant moment.

0:41:110:41:14

On the 29th September 1267,

0:41:160:41:19

King Henry and Llywelyn meet at a ford on the Welsh-English border.

0:41:190:41:24

A formal meeting place, to ratify the treaty of Montgomery.

0:41:240:41:28

King Henry recognises Llywelyn as the official Prince of Wales,

0:41:310:41:36

so long as Llywelyn swears allegiance to the English Crown.

0:41:360:41:40

Llywelyn becomes the first Welsh ruler to be formally acknowledged

0:41:410:41:46

as Prince of Wales by an English king,

0:41:460:41:49

so it is a very significant moment. But this treaty isn't really

0:41:490:41:53

about Llywelyn's relationship with Henry,

0:41:530:41:56

it is more to do with Llywelyn's determination to legitimise

0:41:560:41:59

his power over other Welsh princes and lords.

0:41:590:42:03

And it helps, of course, that he's now backed by a powerful military machine.

0:42:030:42:07

It is Llywelyn's hunger for power that creates the principality of Wales.

0:42:110:42:15

Llywelyn is ruler of 200,000 subjects from Gwynedd to Brecon.

0:42:160:42:22

It is a new start for Wales.

0:42:230:42:26

A time of peace to begin the business of building its own state.

0:42:260:42:30

But this promising age would last only ten years.

0:42:340:42:38

The treaty Llwellyn has signed comes at a heavy price.

0:42:380:42:42

The price demanded of Llywelyn is painfully high

0:42:420:42:46

but he does agree to it.

0:42:460:42:48

Not only does he pay homage to the king he pays a lot of money too.

0:42:480:42:51

And the first instalment is 5,000 marks, that's around £3,000.

0:42:510:42:56

It's probably as much as the prince's entire annual income.

0:42:560:42:59

As well as Llywelyn's financial pressures,

0:43:020:43:04

he loses his deal with the English when Henry dies.

0:43:040:43:08

The new king, Edward I,

0:43:110:43:13

is an imposing figure, fierce of temper and violent.

0:43:130:43:18

He wants to crush this new Prince of Wales

0:43:180:43:20

and win back power over all of Britain, for himself.

0:43:200:43:24

Llywelyn's problems start to multiply.

0:43:290:43:32

He can't bring himself to pay homage to King Edward

0:43:320:43:36

and he stops the system of regular payments that he's agreed to make.

0:43:360:43:41

The response to that is entirely predictable.

0:43:410:43:44

The king judges him to be untrustworthy, unreliable

0:43:440:43:49

and he declares him a rebel.

0:43:490:43:51

In 1277, Edward gathers the biggest army seen in Britain

0:43:520:43:57

since the Norman invasion.

0:43:570:43:59

They force their way into Anglesey, the breadbasket of Wales

0:43:590:44:02

and confiscate the harvest.

0:44:020:44:05

Then Edward redistributes Llywelyn's land.

0:44:050:44:07

Llywelyn is cut off from most of his lands

0:44:110:44:14

and he has very few allies so he's forced to surrender

0:44:140:44:18

and in fact he retreats here to the heart of Snowdonia.

0:44:180:44:22

And there's more bad news for him, because a new treaty is signed

0:44:220:44:25

where most of the Welsh lords

0:44:250:44:27

declare their loyalty to the king and not to Llywelyn, so all

0:44:270:44:31

the power that he's built up over the past decade just fades away.

0:44:310:44:36

For the next five years, Llywelyn tries to patch up

0:44:390:44:43

his relationship with King Edward.

0:44:430:44:45

He even resumes payments.

0:44:450:44:48

But on Palm Sunday in 1282, things go badly wrong.

0:44:480:44:52

Llywelyn's brother decides to take his own initiative

0:44:520:44:55

and attack an English castle without Llywelyn's permission.

0:44:550:44:59

It sparks a rebellion and other Welsh lords join in.

0:44:590:45:03

That gives Llywelyn an impossible dilemma.

0:45:030:45:06

Does he stand aside or does he join in too?

0:45:060:45:10

What happens is that fate intervenes.

0:45:100:45:12

For several months Llywelyn hesitates.

0:45:160:45:19

He's desperate to keep the vengeful English king at bay.

0:45:190:45:23

But on 12 June 1282, his wife Eleanor dies,

0:45:250:45:31

while giving birth to their daughter.

0:45:310:45:34

In mourning and with no male heir he has nothing to lose.

0:45:360:45:40

He joins his brother to attack the King of England.

0:45:420:45:46

But Edward retaliates, attacking Llwellyn from all sides

0:45:460:45:50

including from the sea.

0:45:500:45:52

Edward's forces are closing in on Gwynedd

0:45:520:45:55

and the king has one principle demand.

0:45:550:45:58

He wants Llywelyn to surrender Wales.

0:45:580:46:02

Well, Llywelyn's advisors, the main figures here in Snowdonia send an urgent appeal

0:46:020:46:07

to the Archbishop of Canterbury and they declare the prince

0:46:070:46:11

should not throw aside his inheritance

0:46:110:46:14

"and that of his ancestors in Wales.

0:46:140:46:16

"And accept land in England, a country with whose language,

0:46:160:46:22

"way of life, laws and customs he is unfamiliar."

0:46:220:46:25

The view of Llywelyn's council is uncompromising.

0:46:260:46:30

They declare that Wales is an ancient inheritance.

0:46:300:46:34

It owes nothing to the King of England.

0:46:340:46:37

And Llywelyn himself writes to the king,

0:46:370:46:39

and he says he will never abandon the people

0:46:390:46:41

who have been protected by his ancestors since the days of Brutus.

0:46:410:46:46

It really is a cry of defiance at a desperate time.

0:46:460:46:50

By summoning the legend of Brutus,

0:46:530:46:55

the mythical ancestor of the Celts, Llywelyn lays claim to a much

0:46:550:47:00

older connection to this land, than the English ever can.

0:47:000:47:03

But just a month later,

0:47:060:47:08

Llywelyn, the last native Prince of Wales will be dead.

0:47:080:47:12

One story says that late in 1282, after battle near Builth Wells,

0:47:190:47:25

Llywelyn encounters an English knight.

0:47:250:47:27

Llywelyn isn't wearing any armour.

0:47:320:47:35

The knight runs him through with his lance.

0:47:470:47:49

The Prince of Wales is dead.

0:47:520:47:54

Llywelyn's head is paraded around London -

0:47:550:47:58

a gruesome display of English conquest.

0:47:580:48:01

How Llywelyn dies is a bit of a mystery.

0:48:040:48:07

He is the most wanted man in Britain.

0:48:070:48:09

Is he betrayed by one of his own?

0:48:090:48:11

Is he enticed into a trap?

0:48:110:48:13

Is he struck down by an English knight who doesn't even recognise the Prince of Wales?

0:48:130:48:18

We'll never know for sure.

0:48:180:48:20

What we do know, is for those who believe in Wales,

0:48:200:48:23

in the Land of the Cymru, in the building of a Welsh nation

0:48:230:48:27

the death of Llywelyn is the end of the world.

0:48:270:48:31

Wales loses hope of independence.

0:48:400:48:43

Worse still, Edward suppresses everything Welsh.

0:48:430:48:46

Land and castles are taken, treasures stolen.

0:48:470:48:51

Churches and abbeys are destroyed,

0:48:520:48:55

and the child heirs of Llywelyn's dynasty are imprisoned.

0:48:550:48:59

Edward takes a stranglehold on Wales' last refuge of power

0:49:040:49:08

in the mountainous north, by building imposing castles across Gwynedd.

0:49:080:49:12

His final symbolic touch is to bestow the title Prince of Wales

0:49:140:49:18

on his own heir, a tradition that continues to this day.

0:49:180:49:22

Wales is totally excluded from power.

0:49:260:49:29

It is no longer a place of kings and princes.

0:49:310:49:33

This is a land of political defeat.

0:49:360:49:38

But there is worse to come.

0:49:450:49:47

In 1349, an apocalypse engulfs the medieval world.

0:49:480:49:53

It takes the form of the Bubonic Plague, or Black Death.

0:49:550:49:58

Spread by the fleas of rats,

0:50:000:50:01

it kills 25 million people across Europe.

0:50:010:50:05

A third of England's population die.

0:50:050:50:08

Wales can't escape it.

0:50:080:50:10

Even its mountains and rural isolation

0:50:100:50:13

only hinder the spread of the disease.

0:50:130:50:16

In just two years, a quarter of the Welsh are wiped out.

0:50:180:50:22

After the Black Death, the economy can barely function.

0:50:250:50:29

Survivors are traumatised having witnessed

0:50:290:50:32

suffering on a biblical scale.

0:50:320:50:34

And more trouble is on the way.

0:50:360:50:38

Into this turbulent world steps the son of destiny,

0:50:450:50:49

the man who emerges as the standard bearer for Welsh nationhood.

0:50:490:50:53

His name - Owain Glyndwr.

0:50:530:50:56

And this mighty fortress of Harlech Castle,

0:50:560:50:59

a prime symbol of English power,

0:50:590:51:01

becomes, for several years, a Welsh fortress,

0:51:010:51:04

a Welsh seat of government under a Welsh leader.

0:51:040:51:07

Owain Glyndwr is an unlikely figure to inspire a fight for Welsh independence.

0:51:110:51:16

A nobleman from North Wales, he's also part of the English upper crust.

0:51:160:51:21

He studies law in London and joins the English army,

0:51:210:51:24

even taking part in an invasion of Scotland.

0:51:240:51:27

Not until his late 40s does Glyndwr turn into a rebel with a cause.

0:51:300:51:35

So what is it that sparks Owain Glyndwr's anger and resentment?

0:51:380:51:43

It seems to be a local dispute over land.

0:51:430:51:46

An English squire called Reginald Gray takes possession

0:51:460:51:49

of some of Glyndwr's territory.

0:51:490:51:52

It's a situation that spirals out of control and leads, eventually, to all-out rebellion.

0:51:520:51:58

In the first instance, Glyndwr takes his complaint to parliament.

0:51:580:52:03

He does want to play things by the book

0:52:030:52:05

but his case is rejected there in rather insulting terms,

0:52:050:52:10

with one member referring to the Welsh as "those barefoot rascals".

0:52:100:52:14

Now, if we add all that to the catalogue of injustice

0:52:140:52:18

being suffered by so many Welsh people under English rule, we begin

0:52:180:52:23

to realise why we now have the makings of an explosive situation.

0:52:230:52:28

Glyndwr's sense of Welsh identity comes to the fore.

0:52:310:52:35

Supporters rally round and, on the 16th of September, 1400,

0:52:350:52:40

they declare him Prince of Wales.

0:52:400:52:43

As a direct descendant of the Welsh princes, it is a title

0:52:440:52:48

to which he can lay good claim.

0:52:480:52:51

The self-proclaimed Prince of Wales Owain Glyndwr

0:52:510:52:55

makes the town of Ruthin the first target for his attack.

0:52:550:52:59

He's got new status, a new power. He wants to make a big impact.

0:52:590:53:02

And that's exactly what he does.

0:53:050:53:07

Before dawn, Glyndwr and 200 men raid the town.

0:53:070:53:12

They steal gold, silver and livestock,

0:53:140:53:17

and then burn Ruthin to the ground.

0:53:170:53:20

Glyndwr doesn't stop there. He attacks more English strongholds,

0:53:200:53:25

leaving a trail of burnt towns across North Wales.

0:53:250:53:29

As he gathers momentum, his support across Wales grows.

0:53:290:53:35

Reports tell of Welsh students at Oxford abandoning their books,

0:53:360:53:41

Welsh labourers leaving their English employers,

0:53:410:53:44

all of them returning home to join the rebellion.

0:53:440:53:49

Glyndwr and his men become famous for their guerilla-style warfare.

0:53:490:53:53

They ambush the enemy, and then melt away into the landscape,

0:53:530:53:57

as quickly as they appeared.

0:53:570:53:59

Glyndwr is outwitting the English.

0:54:020:54:05

By 1403, the scale of Glyndwr's revolt is truly national,

0:54:050:54:10

and the English are desperately trying to hang on

0:54:100:54:14

to four power bases, including this one at Harlech.

0:54:140:54:17

So Glyndwr decides to lay siege to the castle and starve them out.

0:54:170:54:22

And the tactic works.

0:54:220:54:24

A few months later, Glyndwr and his family are able to move in here and make Harlech Castle their home.

0:54:240:54:32

He's consolidating his hold on all of central Wales and he's moving

0:54:320:54:36

a step closer to uniting all of the Welsh against the great enemy.

0:54:360:54:41

And, for nearly two years, Glyndwr has the help of French troops

0:54:450:54:49

lent to him by the King of France, Charles the Sixth.

0:54:490:54:52

At the height of his power, Glyndwr comes here to Machynlleth

0:54:550:54:59

and assembles a parliament with representatives from all over Wales,

0:54:590:55:04

and, to add the prestige,

0:55:040:55:06

there are envoys from Spain and Scotland and France.

0:55:060:55:10

This is no small-time rebel leader. This is the Prince of Wales.

0:55:100:55:14

It's significant that Wales' first parliament

0:55:180:55:21

is held in Mid-Wales at Machynlleth,

0:55:210:55:24

a town that has no English castle.

0:55:240:55:26

Glyndwr's plans for his country are described in a letter

0:55:280:55:31

he writes to the French king.

0:55:310:55:33

It paints a vivid picture of a free and independent nation.

0:55:330:55:37

Glyndwr's vision of a vibrant Welsh state is dazzling in its ambition.

0:55:390:55:45

A powerful parliament, an independent church,

0:55:450:55:48

a university in the north and in the south.

0:55:480:55:51

It is sophisticated, it's forward-looking and it fails.

0:55:510:55:55

Glyndwr is still a rebel in the eyes of many

0:56:000:56:03

and his support in Wales is far from universal,

0:56:030:56:08

and, in 1406, France withdraws her troops.

0:56:080:56:11

Weakened by these set backs, Wales is quickly taken by England.

0:56:130:56:17

Glyndwr fights on until he is cornered in Harlech in 1409.

0:56:210:56:26

Glyndwr escapes but his wife, two daughters and a grandchild

0:56:260:56:30

are captured and imprisoned in London for the rest of their days.

0:56:300:56:34

Owain Glyndwr becomes a wanted man,

0:56:430:56:46

hunted by the forces of King Henry,

0:56:460:56:49

until he and his small band of supporters are no longer a threat,

0:56:490:56:53

and the flames of Glyndwr's revolt,

0:56:530:56:56

which once burned so brightly, are just embers and ashes.

0:56:560:57:00

In the aftermath, the Welsh are punished by the English.

0:57:040:57:08

Cut off from trade, they face poverty and starvation.

0:57:080:57:13

While Owain Glyndwr seems to vanish from history.

0:57:160:57:20

It is said that Owain, like King Arthur, is asleep somewhere

0:57:220:57:26

in these hills awaiting the call to return to save his country.

0:57:260:57:31

But 600 years after the revolt of Glyndwr,

0:57:310:57:36

his vision of a Senedd on Welsh soil has been fulfilled.

0:57:360:57:40

We have a Welsh government today, but it was the power-hungry kings

0:57:430:57:48

of medieval Wales who were the first to forge a sense of one nation.

0:57:480:57:55

The great struggles of Llywelyn the Last

0:57:550:57:58

and Owain Glyndwr are powerful emblems of our nationhood,

0:57:580:58:02

part of our identity and that will never change

0:58:020:58:05

but in the next chapter of our story of Wales,

0:58:050:58:08

we will see the crowning of a man with Welsh blood in his veins,

0:58:080:58:12

not a prince of Wales, but the King of England.

0:58:120:58:16

The Open University has produced a free booklet for you to learn

0:58:230:58:27

more about the history of the people of Wales.

0:58:270:58:30

Call or visit the website and follow the links to the Open University.

0:58:330:58:40

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0:58:470:58:52

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