The Ice King Voyages of Discovery


The Ice King

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In the spring of 1892, a charismatic Norwegian explorer called Fridtjof Nansen

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announced a daring plan to venture into all this.

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The Arctic, unmapped and unconquered.

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At the top of the world,

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the ultimate goal - the North Pole.

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Few had even entered these icy wastes.

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Fewer still had returned.

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Nansen's dream to conquer the Pole was thought nothing short of suicidal.

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But Fridtjof Nansen ignored his critics

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and embarked on the most extraordinary voyage in history.

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It would be an expedition of spectacular discoveries

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that would launch polar exploration into the modern era.

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But at the cost of extreme suffering and mental torture

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in the most hostile place on Earth.

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Little more than 100 years ago,

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this 16 million square kilometres of frozen sea was the last unknown on Earth.

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A dangerous fascination for that ominous blank on their maps

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had enticed a few daring explorers to venture into the barren ice.

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But up to now,

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all the attempts to penetrate the Arctic had resulted in either death

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or ships being destroyed in the crushing polar pack.

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Despite this, on 24th June 1893,

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Nansen set sail from Oslo - a man obsessed.

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He was determined to fulfil the dream that fired his imagination -

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to reach the North Pole and claim it for his country.

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He bade farewell to his beloved new wife Eva

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and their infant daughter Liv.

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He promised he would return from his Arctic odyssey a hero.

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The expedition would keep them apart for at least three years, possibly eight,

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but most thought forever.

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I thought everything was black.

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Within me, I was torn apart as if something would break.

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But nothing could deter his ambition.

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So with a raggedy bunch of sailors, whalers and sealers

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prepared to risk their lives with him, Nansen embarked on his epic voyage.

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At 31, Nansen was an eminent zoologist,

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a pioneering neurologist, as well as an ambitious explorer.

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He had just made an epic crossing through the icy heart of Greenland.

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Now, with his outrageous attempt to conquer the Pole,

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he was risking everything.

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Nansen was convinced he could achieve the impossible, and he had a plan.

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A plan that was bold and brave,

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but most people thought plain barmy.

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Ironically, Nansen's theory on reaching the North Pole

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was inspired by a tragic shipwreck and the loss of 18 men.

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In 1879, the US Arctic exploration ship Jeannette

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had made a bid for the Pole,

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but the ship was crushed by the freezing ice cap

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and trapped in the north-eastern Arctic.

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When the wreckage was found over two years later,

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it was on the opposite side of the polar ice - in the west.

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Nansen's theory was that the wreck had been carried the 4,000 kilometres

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by the drift of the floating ice cap.

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His audacious adventure was born.

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My plan for the North Pole is to sail in ice-free water as far as possible.

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Then go into the ice until we are beset and frozen in,

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then drift towards the Pole.

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Nansen, as he had done for much of his life, was turning a reigning concept

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completely on its head, and he was about to intentionally confront the polar explorer's worst nightmare.

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He was going to freeze the Fram in to the polar pack -

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the same ice that wrecked the Jeannette and many ships before her.

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At best, it was considered a ludicrous idea, as this little ditty in The Punch shows.

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"So, Doctor Fridtjof Nansen's off.

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"Cynics will chuckle and pessimists scoff.

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"What a noodle, that Norroway chap,

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"to drift to the Pole to complete our map."

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Even in Norway, scorn was poured over Nansen's idea

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of deliberately freezing into the ice cap.

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Few academics would sign up for what most thought was a doomed expedition.

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One able and willing candidate DID apply.

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A fellow explorer called Frederick George Jackson.

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But he had to be very politely turned down cos he was English,

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and as far as Nansen was concerned,

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this expedition was for the honour of his homeland.

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For Norwegians to claim for Norway the last great unexplored region in the world.

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To start with, everything depended on getting to the northeast side of the polar ice pack.

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But after six weeks at sea, they were desperately struggling to make headway.

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It was as if the ship was being held back by a kind of strange force.

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Nansen was baffled.

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Back then, there were no instruments for sampling underwater.

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So, in the workshop on board ship, Nansen designed and built his own.

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And the very one he made survives to this day.

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Can you believe it? Who better to tell us how it works than Ola, from the Nansen Institute in Bergen.

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So, come on then, mate, how does it work?

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OK, this is a device

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which you can bring up water from great depths.

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You send a messenger down the cable, and the messenger hits like that...

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and it turns round. And you see?

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Now it's closed, and all the water from, say, 3,000 metres sits in here.

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-Can we use it?

-Yes, absolutely.

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Come on then, what are we doing?

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First we have to screw these up here.

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Bit of slack. Ah, yeah.

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Now we're going to put the messenger, so it turns to pick the water up, OK?

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That's blooming clever!

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OK, Paul, give me the bottle because now I open it up...

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We'll do this again.

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-No water in there.

-Yes, here it comes, you see?

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With this sample, you can determine the salinity of the water,

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and Nansen discovered that it was a very fresh layer,

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really fresh layer, for example caused by ice melting, fresh layer on top of the salt water.

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-The water is so fresh that you can even drink it.

-Wow!

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'Fresh water was not something anyone expected in the middle of the Russian Kara Sea.'

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Nansen realised it was the outflows from the Siberian rivers and the melting glaciers they were passing.

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This layer of fresh water sitting on salt water was causing

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a kind of extra underwater wake, gripping the ship while she tried to make headway.

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The strange layers that Nansen discovered are now known as dead water,

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and they're marked on the charts up here, so we can avoid them.

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With his new found knowledge, Nansen steered a course away from the river run-offs

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to the northeast - but into more trouble.

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Already delayed by the dead water,

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Nansen needed to push further north before being frozen in.

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But the winter ice was forming a month early.

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The sea was freezing around him...

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too soon.

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Finally, on 22nd September 1893,

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Nansen crossed the 78th parallel of latitude, into uncharted territory.

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Now we are entering the absolutely unknown.

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Here, all charts stop,

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and now our real voyage of discovery begins.

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They were now in the mysterious polar realm, with no support,

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no communication and no means of rescue.

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Nansen and his men were off the map.

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It was time to party.

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Nansen joined everyone round the table in the saloon, and drank hot punch.

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This proved what the moment meant, as under his regime, alcohol was a rarity.

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Navigator Scott Hansen summed it up.

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A party that begins at 4am in the morning at the northernmost tip of the known world

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belongs to the rarer events of a man's life,

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and must be absolutely classed as a success.

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-Skal.

-Skal!

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Nansen had navigated the ship through the closing ice floes

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as far north as he could go.

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They were now at the mercy of the polar pack ice.

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When the Arctic Ocean freezes in winter, the sea ice can get to be almost 50 metres thick.

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This groaning mass has a potential crushing pressure

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of 500 kilograms per square centimetre.

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Now the entire bid for the Pole depended on this small ship

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surviving the huge pressure of the closing ice.

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For Nansen, it was the moment of truth.

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His tiny wooden vessel and his dreams would be tested to their limits.

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Nansen called his eccentric creation Fram, meaning forward,

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and she was truly a ship like no other.

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His wild idea was that the unusual curved sides and rounded bilges

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would stop the ice from getting a grip on her.

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And his theory was that being egg-shaped, she would slowly rise up

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under the crushing pressure of the freezing ice,

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and end up sitting on top of the frozen sea.

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Nansen wasn't an engineer, but he'd done his research,

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and he had a good innate feel for design - stuff that works -

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and on his side he had Norway's best ship designer.

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Together, they hoped to create a ship that would rise up above the incoming pressure of the ice.

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A bit like this.

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As the ice comes in, it's a huge amount of pressure,

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and unless it's right, the ship's going to break under that pressure, and sink.

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And in this case, this is what they hoped to do.

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Well, Nansen's theory was all well and good,

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but there was no way it could be tested on a full-sized ship,

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except out in the unforgiving Arctic ice.

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As the ice pushed in against the hull,

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the Fram was facing her greatest test.

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For Nansen and his crew, there was little they could do but...wait.

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And Fram's timbers moaned and creaked as the pressure on them grew.

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Now we are in the very midst of what the prophets would have had us dread so much.

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The ice is pressing and packing around us with a noise like thunder.

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It took the whole of October for the sea to completely freeze around the ship.

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And by the 25th, when the sun dipped below the horizon for the last time,

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the wretched sound of the timbers creaking became just too much.

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Terrified, the men abandoned ship.

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From the surrounding ice floe, they stood and watched.

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The ship trembles and jumps up.

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She allowed the ice to move beneath her, and lifted a little.

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There's no movie footage of Nansen's bid for the Pole, but it was documented with still photographs.

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These extraordinary images capture the moment

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the ship, intact and undamaged, rose up out of the ice.

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It had worked.

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This egg-shaped hull had resisted the crushing forces, and rather than get trapped in the ice,

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the 800-tonne ship had been lifted up, and was sitting on top of the sea ice.

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And just as Nansen had promised,

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Fram was demonstrating she was the toughest wooden ship ever built.

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We're now in the front of the ship.

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-Wow!

-With all the...

-It's absolutely massive.

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All the thick beams, and all of them are joined together

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-by knees from Norwegian pine trees.

-Which bits are the knees?

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Is it all right to get up there?

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-Instead of using metal, they used the root and the stem of a tree in one piece.

-So it's upside-down.

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-This is the trunk.

-Exactly.

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And this is the root. It's obviously massively strong.

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Yes, the strongest piece of the tree and also very flexible.

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How many of them are on board because they seem to be every couple of feet?

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They used 400 trees for the ship.

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These knees themselves look massive, but how thick is the hull here, do you think?

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On the sides it's 80cm - about this big.

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Three layers of wood.

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And the front is also three massive beams,

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one in front of the others, making 1.25 metres.

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So this hull, right here,

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-is that thick.

-Yeah, 80cm on the side and 125 in the front.

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Every effort was made to make the hull as smooth as possible,

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so even the nails was pushed hard in, so that the ice couldn't grip the nail.

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And also, there's no keel, the keel is inside the ship with only two inches pointing out,

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so that the ice could not grip the keel if the ice was pushed under the boat, and then tip it.

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So with this extremely smooth hull, is so the ice can't get any grip all.

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Even the rudder and the propeller can be pulled up when the ice came.

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But that the trade-off for that is that she would have been really lively at sea.

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Exactly. You float like a cork on top of the waves,

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and all the diaries talk about massive seasickness.

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One of the crew members said that at first they were worried about dying,

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and then about NOT dying soon enough.

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For all the Fram's strength and weight, she's still a small ship.

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Just 39 metres long, 11 metres wide and a five-metre draft.

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Compared to the unforgiving polar ice cap, she was just a spec of dust.

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The ship was now part of the Arctic ice.

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If Nansen's theory was correct,

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she would drift across the top of the world, over the North Pole.

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Inside, 13 men would have to endure the cold and dark...

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imprisoned in the tiny vessel for more than three years.

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The Fram was now over 2,000 kilometres from civilisation.

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She'd vanished from the world, and for those on board, the world had vanished from them.

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And the dangers now changed from being physical to mental.

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It was a very real threat.

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Polar expeditions in the past had foundered

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as the isolation of the Arctic pushed men into insanity,

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mutiny, even cannibalism.

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And Nansen's crew now faced years alone in the Arctic,

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in a tiny vessel trapped in the ice.

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So he drew up a rigorous schedule to try and occupy the men.

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Scientific observations, surveying and maintenance were top of the exhaustive list.

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The working day would begin at 8am sharp, with monitoring,

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experiments and repairs filling every hour until dinner at 6pm.

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The crew were then allowed the evenings to themselves.

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Nansen had also figured out, when he was crossing Greenland,

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that variety in the diet is exceptional for morale.

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Up till then, monotonous diets on expeditions were legendary.

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So Nansen personally supervised the sterilising and canning or freeze-drying

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of 52 varieties of meat, fish, vegetables, potatoes,

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pates and fruit and, best of all, he brought along plenty of this -

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chocolate.

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In fact, Cadbury's sponsored the expedition.

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At every moment of importance or anything worth noting, out would come the chocolate.

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But being so far inside the Arctic Circle created an extra challenge -

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the disorientation and depression caused by five winter months of constant darkness.

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Ever the innovator, Nansen installed a windmill to generate electricity,

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and used the new-fangled light bulbs to create an artificial day.

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And an organ for evening renditions

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lifted the spirits during the never-ending night.

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Ironically, and despite all his precautions, it was Nansen himself who began to suffer.

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The loneliness and tedium prompted wild mood swings.

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He's an odd character - sometimes serious, scientific and aggressive in discussions.

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And then, one fine day extravagantly cheerful and pleasant, almost to the point of puerility.

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Nansen became surly, depressed, and ranted at the futility of his expedition...

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..and even, sometimes, his own life.

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Here I am, among the drifting ice floes and the great silence.

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I stare up at the eternal courses of the stars,

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thoughtful as thought.

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Everything is picked to pieces and becomes miserably small and worthless.

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As leader, Nansen was unable to confide his feelings.

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He missed the companionship of his wife Eva.

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Nansen had now been away for six months,

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and Eva was distracting herself by pursuing another love.

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Singing.

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SHE SINGS IN NORWEGIAN

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She would rehearse regularly with the aim of turning professional and touring in the spring.

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This was their first winter apart, and on 8th January,

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Nansen missed the first birthday of their daughter, Liv.

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Nansen's diary entry on that special day

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records his thoughts as they turn to his little Liv.

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A good day to you on this your day, little Liv.

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Perhaps Liv's day will be the start of our luck in our northward drift under your star.

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But Nansen's hopes would soon turn to despair.

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Star sightings to check his northward drift towards the Pole

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revealed a disaster.

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Over the last six months, the path of the Fram was erratic, to say the least.

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The ice they were stuck in was going backwards,

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sideways and occasionally - if they were lucky - north.

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Basically, they had only travelled 111 kilometres towards the North Pole.

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Nansen had calculated that the prevailing wind

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and the predictable current would carry his ship directly to the Pole.

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This news was a terrible blow.

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During a routine series of underwater soundings,

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he made an extraordinary discovery that explained everything.

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At the time, it was assumed there was a shallow sea beneath the polar ice.

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But when Nansen took depth soundings, he was astonished by the results.

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The cable, lowered through a hole in the ice,

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touched the bottom at 1,860 fathoms -

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that's almost 4½ kilometres.

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In an extraordinary breakthrough, Nansen had discovered

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over 63 million cubic kilometres of previously unknown deep sea -

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a massive new ocean.

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The Arctic Ocean.

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And it was the strange currents in this deep ocean that were skewing his drift to the Pole.

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When he was here, he was noticing that, compared to the wind,

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he wasn't drifting as he expected to drift.

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That is correct. He expected to kind of drift

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with the same direction as the wind,

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but measurements show that he was drifted to the right of the wind.

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-Always to the right?

-Always to the right.

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Roughly with 30 degrees to the right.

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-Oh, wow, that's a lot.

-It's a lot, yes, but then it also postulated

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that when you went down into the deeper part of the ocean,

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one layer dragged the other, so the current was turning...

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and then he started to think.

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What about Earth's rotation?

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And then came the idea that it must be...

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The deflection to the right must be caused by the Earth's rotation.

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And this was one of the first times

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a scientist really looked

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at the whole Earth rotation was affecting the current.

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And it seems even more unbelievable to me

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that he figured it out while he was locked into the ice, stuck on the Fram.

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Well, maybe he had time to think!

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It was an amazing discovery

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that the Earth's rotation affected current,

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but it was a cruel blow for Nansen.

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He now realised the drift would not take the Fram over the North Pole, after all.

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His voyage of discovery had failed.

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If the ice ever released him, he would be returning home empty-handed.

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Nansen was devastated,

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but his obsession would not die.

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On 16th November, he gathered the crew together to make a remarkable announcement.

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Nansen had an extraordinary new plan...

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THEY SPEAK IN NORWEGIAN

0:27:250:27:27

To leave the ship, and ski the remaining 600 kilometres to the Pole.

0:27:320:27:38

His crew were horrified.

0:27:420:27:45

To stand any chance of success, he proposed to travel swift and light.

0:27:470:27:52

He would take only one other person -

0:27:540:27:58

first mate Frederik Hjalmar Johansen.

0:27:580:28:02

Johansen was a world-class gymnast,

0:28:020:28:05

and also the fastest skier Nansen knew.

0:28:050:28:08

This was Nansen's biggest gamble to date.

0:28:140:28:17

It was only 30 years since the British Navy's Sir John Franklyn - along with all his 134 men -

0:28:170:28:23

had perished whilst battling the brutal open Arctic.

0:28:230:28:27

Nansen's new action plan was ambitious by any measure.

0:28:290:28:33

With provisions for just 100 days, he calculated he could get to the North Pole and back to land.

0:28:330:28:39

He'd have to face the whole unmapped polar pack,

0:28:390:28:44

and temperatures often below minus-45.

0:28:440:28:47

Nansen used the dogs and sledges from the Fram.

0:28:490:28:53

They'd been brought up in case the Fram was crushed in the ice and they'd had to abandon ship.

0:28:530:28:58

But now Nansen figured the Fram was safe in her icy cradle.

0:28:580:29:02

So, with the dogs in harness,

0:29:050:29:07

Nansen was ready to start the most risky journey of his life -

0:29:070:29:12

to conquer the top of the world, in his own unique style.

0:29:120:29:17

It was now almost two years since Nansen had set sail.

0:29:550:30:00

Eva was becoming a success, her reputation as a singer growing all over Europe.

0:30:000:30:05

She had no idea that her beloved had now left the relative safety of the Fram

0:30:070:30:12

and was risking everything in his dash for the Pole.

0:30:120:30:16

At first, everything went well.

0:30:160:30:19

Nansen was getting into his stride,

0:30:330:30:36

thanks to a brilliant range of innovations that kept him on the move,

0:30:360:30:39

and still work for us explorers today.

0:30:390:30:42

It was the first time that dogs and men had worked together in the polar regions

0:30:430:30:47

and, to Nansen's joy, it was a perfect match.

0:30:470:30:51

In eight days away from the Fram, he had covered 105 kilometres,

0:30:560:31:00

and was now averaging over 13 kilometres a day towards the Pole.

0:31:000:31:06

But it was still tough going, and the physical exertion would really have taken its toll

0:31:060:31:11

were it not for a small but simple device that Nansen had spotted and decided to try out.

0:31:110:31:17

It was a prototype stove called the Primus,

0:31:210:31:24

and Nansen immediately saw its potential to combat the dreaded Arctic thirst.

0:31:240:31:30

Strenuous exercise in dry polar air causes extreme water loss.

0:31:320:31:38

You can lose over four litres of liquid a day, all of which needs to be replaced.

0:31:380:31:44

Eating a bit of snow for refreshment tastes great, but it's very dangerous.

0:31:470:31:52

It chills the central core of your body.

0:31:520:31:54

The trick is to melt the snow, and that takes a tonne of fuel.

0:31:540:32:00

The Primus...

0:32:000:32:01

..used pressurised fuel...

0:32:050:32:08

and a clever pre-heating mechanism

0:32:080:32:12

so that you burn vaporised fuel.

0:32:120:32:15

It produces a really clean,

0:32:150:32:18

soot-free, super-hot flame.

0:32:180:32:21

In fact, I've heard that in the old days,

0:32:210:32:24

these original Primus stoves were used by Scandinavian women

0:32:240:32:27

in the marketplace - they put them under their dresses to keep warm!

0:32:270:32:31

With the fuel-efficient Primus,

0:32:330:32:35

Nansen avoided the dangerous dehydration of Arctic thirst,

0:32:350:32:39

so he travelled light and fast,

0:32:390:32:41

melting as much snow as he needed, going twice as far on half the fuel.

0:32:410:32:46

DOGS BARK

0:32:490:32:51

By the third week into the trek for the Pole, Nansen was truly pushing hard.

0:32:510:32:57

And his remarkable talent for invention served him well.

0:33:000:33:04

He had come up with a whole new way to allow him to travel fast over the ice -

0:33:040:33:10

cross-country skis.

0:33:100:33:13

These are the very skis that he used?

0:33:150:33:17

Yes, they are our cultural heritage.

0:33:170:33:22

-It's light.

-It's lovely.

0:33:220:33:25

I've got skis shorter than this that are a lot heavier, even now.

0:33:250:33:28

I find it really interesting that he went to do the North Pole

0:33:280:33:32

with just wood - he didn't take skis, he built skis on the way.

0:33:320:33:35

Yes, and they had to use skis for exercising.

0:33:350:33:39

They were very fat, so Nansen ordered his crew going around the ski

0:33:390:33:43

to lose some weight also.

0:33:430:33:46

It's not built for turning.

0:33:460:33:47

I mean, there's no...no side cut at all or waist -

0:33:470:33:51

it's just completely parallel.

0:33:510:33:53

They are parallel, and then they are pointed at both ends.

0:33:530:33:58

-Oh, I see...

-Also very practical. You can see also...

0:33:580:34:01

The tail is cut away, isn't it?

0:34:010:34:04

Yes. So it's lighter, more elegant, and in the worse case, if one end -

0:34:040:34:11

this end, for example - broke, you can just turn the ski and continue.

0:34:110:34:16

And they are just incredibly designed for one single purpose -

0:34:160:34:21

going in a long straight line

0:34:210:34:23

using the smallest amount of energy as possible.

0:34:230:34:26

He was a fantastic inventor.

0:34:260:34:29

Inventing a new energetic style of skiing

0:34:370:34:40

brought a fresh challenge for Nansen - overheating.

0:34:400:34:44

Old-style heavy-duty clothing didn't suit the demands

0:34:440:34:48

of vigorous cross-country skiing,

0:34:480:34:51

so Nansen had another idea -

0:34:510:34:53

lightweight layers to regulate body temperature.

0:34:530:34:56

Nansen's ideas were inspired by a weatherproof woollen material

0:34:590:35:05

created by Dr Jaeger of Germany.

0:35:050:35:08

And a ground-breaking breathable wind-proof material called Burberry cloth,

0:35:080:35:14

and this was manufactured in a factory in Basingstoke, England.

0:35:140:35:18

Now, this layer principle was an inspired idea by Nansen.

0:35:180:35:22

It meant you could travel in the cold and across the snow and ice at the very limits of human endurance.

0:35:220:35:28

These days, we use the layer principle without even thinking about it.

0:35:280:35:33

But it's all thanks to Nansen.

0:35:330:35:35

After one month on the ice, they were halfway to the Pole, but conditions were worsening.

0:35:440:35:50

Even with all Nansen's ingenuity, the extreme environment was now punishing their bodies.

0:35:520:35:58

At minus 45 degrees Celsius, skin will freeze within seconds.

0:36:000:36:05

Tuesday, minus 45.

0:36:080:36:11

We don't sleep at all because of the cold.

0:36:110:36:14

We work a lot and suffer much.

0:36:140:36:17

My God, icy sleeping bags, heavy loads, but onward we must go.

0:36:170:36:23

My fingers are all destroyed.

0:36:230:36:25

All mittens are frozen stiff, it is becoming worse and worse.

0:36:250:36:29

God alone knows what will happen to us.

0:36:290:36:33

It's not pleasant to be a human being here.

0:36:330:36:36

There must surely be an end to it.

0:36:360:36:38

The problem were these hellish contortions in the pack ice.

0:36:430:36:46

There's nothing worse for a polar traveller.

0:36:460:36:49

And up here in the Arctic, the constant movement of the sea

0:36:490:36:52

buckles and shatters the frozen surface

0:36:520:36:55

and forces it into thousands of hummocks

0:36:550:36:58

and these big pressure ridges.

0:36:580:37:00

Some of them can be ten metres high,

0:37:000:37:02

making them completely insurmountable.

0:37:020:37:05

And now the dogs were also suffering, as Nansen recorded.

0:37:100:37:15

The dogs are becoming almost impossible to drive ahead,

0:37:150:37:19

the more tanglements and other devilments that appear in them.

0:37:190:37:22

In the growing chaos, the lead dog team fell into a crack in the sea ice

0:37:380:37:43

and had to be pulled out of the water one by one.

0:37:430:37:46

The sledge had gone in as well, and had to be man-hauled out.

0:37:460:37:50

The mood darkened even more when they had to begin slaughtering some of the dogs to feed the others.

0:37:520:37:58

And although they'd planned this, it felt like murder, and depressed them immensely.

0:37:580:38:04

But on they went.

0:38:040:38:06

After battling the ice for five weeks, their pace was slowing.

0:38:250:38:30

The past 12 days had only achieved 75 kilometres.

0:38:300:38:36

They were running out of time and supplies.

0:38:360:38:40

Nansen also had a sense of unease. Something else wasn't right with their progress,

0:38:490:38:54

so he stopped to take a precise star fix.

0:38:540:38:59

The results came as a terrible shock.

0:39:020:39:04

They showed that the last 75 tortuous kilometres hadn't got them any closer to their goal.

0:39:040:39:11

Nansen was distraught, as he realised that the ice was playing a terrible trick.

0:39:110:39:16

As they hauled northwards, the whole of the pack ice was drifting southwards,

0:39:160:39:21

it was as if they were on a giant running machine - they were almost going backwards.

0:39:210:39:26

It was a gut-wrenching blow.

0:39:260:39:28

After 175 kilometres of painfully hard slog since they'd left the Fram,

0:39:330:39:38

Nansen - frozen, exhausted and utterly demoralised -

0:39:380:39:44

reflected on the note Eva had written in his diary.

0:39:440:39:48

My beloved boy, God grant that health, happiness and good luck will follow you.

0:39:480:39:55

The ice is growing worse and worse.

0:39:570:40:00

Yesterday it brought me to the brink of despair.

0:40:000:40:02

We have advanced hardly a mile.

0:40:020:40:05

There seems little sense in carrying on any longer.

0:40:050:40:08

We sacrifice the precious days for too little.

0:40:080:40:11

Nansen's North Pole ambition was over.

0:40:130:40:17

It was time to turn back.

0:40:290:40:32

They'd got further north than anyone before them, but the North Pole was out of reach.

0:40:320:40:38

They were exhausted, conditions were worsening and their rations were dangerously low.

0:40:380:40:43

Nansen knew in the shifting ice, he could never find the Fram again.

0:40:450:40:51

Now his challenge was not reaching the Pole, but surviving.

0:40:510:40:56

A month after turning and heading south for land,

0:41:120:41:15

the sun was rising higher in the sky and the sea ice was melting under them.

0:41:150:41:21

Having turned, they were searching for a glimpse of land that might help them get their bearings.

0:41:230:41:30

By late May, Nansen was becoming more and more disorientated.

0:41:320:41:37

Both their watches had stopped, which meant that they had completely lost track of time,

0:41:370:41:42

and Nansen was navigating by guesswork.

0:41:420:41:46

All he had was the sun, his compass and this hand-drawn map.

0:41:460:41:51

But what he didn't know was that the map was wrong.

0:41:520:41:56

It looked as if they were tantalisingly close to a large group of islands,

0:41:560:42:01

but as it was, they were searching for some phantom land.

0:42:010:42:07

After 100 days - the maximum Nansen had allowed -

0:42:190:42:23

they had completely run out of provisions.

0:42:230:42:26

The two dogs that were left were no use to them

0:42:260:42:29

because from now on they would have to kayak.

0:42:290:42:33

Out of compassion they agreed to each shoot each other's dogs.

0:42:330:42:37

And they used two precious bullets to despatch them quickly.

0:42:370:42:42

Then they used the dog's blood

0:42:420:42:44

to moisten the last of the dry dregs of the meat paste.

0:42:440:42:49

Still pressing south, and now four and a half months away from the Fram,

0:42:560:43:00

the terrain began to change.

0:43:000:43:03

Now desperately hungry, the starving men shot everything possible -

0:43:030:43:08

seagulls, seals, even walruses were now in their sights.

0:43:080:43:14

Despite the huge body and deformed appearance,

0:43:160:43:19

there was something gently pleading and helpless in the round eyes.

0:43:190:43:24

Seemed mostly like murder.

0:43:240:43:26

GUNSHOT

0:43:280:43:29

I put an end to it with a bullet behind the ear,

0:43:290:43:33

but those eyes pursue me even now.

0:43:330:43:36

After another two weeks, they were exhausted,

0:43:400:43:43

and the struggle was unrelenting.

0:43:430:43:46

Now winter was closing in, making travel impossible.

0:43:460:43:50

In the dying rays of the brief Arctic summer, their hope also faded.

0:43:530:43:58

They battled aimlessly south, making little headway in the closing ice.

0:43:580:44:04

Temperatures were plummeting.

0:44:040:44:07

Against all the odds, they had crossed 480 kilometres

0:44:070:44:13

of the unforgiving polar wastes, but now they were spent.

0:44:130:44:18

It would be foolish to proceed.

0:44:180:44:20

In desperation, they prepared for another Arctic winter at the mercy of the ice.

0:44:200:44:26

In the early 1990s, one of the most extraordinary sights

0:44:330:44:36

in the history of Polar exploration was unearthed.

0:44:360:44:39

When it was first discovered,

0:44:390:44:41

all that remained was a shallow scraped hole,

0:44:410:44:44

some used gun cartridges and a scattering of bones.

0:44:440:44:49

And it was all that remained of Nansen's most unwelcome adventure.

0:44:490:44:54

So it's here in the high Arctic where they built this winter cavern.

0:44:540:45:00

Cavern or cabin... A hole in the ground,

0:45:000:45:02

or even more so a hole in the permafrost.

0:45:020:45:04

You have to remember, the ground is frozen from about...

0:45:040:45:07

In summer, the top 30 centimetres defrosts and from there, down to 600 metres, it's frozen ice.

0:45:070:45:13

And there's basically a log

0:45:130:45:16

above a small hole in the ground.

0:45:160:45:18

They'd dug a hole into the permafrost,

0:45:180:45:20

laid a single driftwood log across the top.

0:45:200:45:23

The walrus that they'd killed for food,

0:45:230:45:25

they put the hides over the top with rocks holding down the hide,

0:45:250:45:29

and they crawled in this hole in the ground.

0:45:290:45:31

-Wow.

-Definitely not a cabin.

0:45:310:45:34

They then started sharing the same sleeping bag to stay warm,

0:45:340:45:38

they burned the walrus blubber for lighting because you have to remember,

0:45:380:45:42

at that area it's four and a half months to five months of total darkness throughout the winter.

0:45:420:45:46

And they would have laid in the cabin for that winter in nearly a state of hibernation.

0:45:460:45:51

All that was keeping Nansen alive was the survival techniques he had learned form the Inuit in Greenland.

0:45:550:46:01

I live their life, I eat their food.

0:46:040:46:08

I learned to appreciate the inventions the Eskimos had made to secure life's necessities.

0:46:080:46:14

The men were just surviving.

0:46:210:46:24

They did little and spoke less, holding on to the last flames of optimism.

0:46:240:46:31

It is miserable. One feels bitter and depressed.

0:46:330:46:38

Monotony has told on both of us, and we both have our dark moments.

0:46:380:46:43

If we did not have the certainty of returning to the world,

0:46:430:46:46

this existence would be unbearable.

0:46:460:46:48

Back in Oslo, three years had passed with no word of the expedition.

0:46:550:47:00

But Eva refused to give up hope.

0:47:020:47:06

Together, she and Liv faced their third Christmas alone.

0:47:060:47:10

Most people had given Nansen up for lost.

0:47:140:47:17

Others believed he was already dead.

0:47:170:47:20

SHE SINGS "SILENT NIGHT" IN NORWEGIAN

0:47:200:47:24

Incredibly, they had survived.

0:47:460:47:50

Although buried alive in their hole in the ground,

0:47:500:47:53

Nansen and Johansen also marked Christmas in their own special way.

0:47:530:47:59

To celebrate, Johansen turned his grease-ridden shirt inside-out,

0:47:590:48:03

and Nansen changed his underpants for the first time that year.

0:48:030:48:08

As the dead of winter passed,

0:48:140:48:17

a scattering of life slowly returned to the frozen wastes.

0:48:170:48:20

They managed to kill a lot of walrus on the beach straight down from where they built the hole in the ground,

0:48:230:48:29

and they put all that meat as a stash right next to the cabin,

0:48:290:48:35

if you'd like to call it, and of course the bears started coming.

0:48:350:48:38

So then they started shooting the bears as they come.

0:48:380:48:41

And they couldn't eat the food faster than they managed to replenish.

0:48:410:48:45

-I notice

-you're

-wearing a gun. Is that for the same reason?

0:48:450:48:48

We've got the gun cos a bear could pop up anywhere.

0:48:480:48:51

A wise Eskimo always looks over his shoulder.

0:48:510:48:54

After eight months of total isolation,

0:49:010:49:05

the men broke from their dark, cold, stony prison

0:49:050:49:09

to struggle south again.

0:49:090:49:12

They were still hopelessly disorientated.

0:49:120:49:14

The islands Nansen hoped he was heading for were, in fact,

0:49:160:49:20

over 800 kilometres away - an impossible distance to kayak.

0:49:200:49:25

Nansen could not know this so, with blind faith, and little choice, they went on.

0:49:280:49:35

For over a month, they'd skied, clambered and kayaked over unforgiving terrain.

0:49:440:49:50

At last, they'd reached some open water,

0:49:500:49:52

so they rigged their two kayaks together,

0:49:520:49:55

catamaran-style, and rigged up a sail, and carried on.

0:49:550:50:00

It worked great until they went ashore

0:50:000:50:02

to stretch their tired bodies.

0:50:020:50:04

A wind came up, caught the craft and it began to drift away.

0:50:040:50:09

On board was their food, clothing, ammunition - everything on which their lives depended.

0:50:090:50:16

And of course, it would have been complete madness

0:50:160:50:18

for either one of them to have jumped in the icy water after it.

0:50:180:50:22

The water was icy cold and it was exhausting to swim with clothes on.

0:50:300:50:34

The kayaks drifted further and further away.

0:50:340:50:37

It seemed more than doubtful whether I would manage it,

0:50:370:50:41

but there drifted all our hope.

0:50:410:50:43

If only I could hold out, we were saved.

0:50:430:50:45

So I forced myself on.

0:50:450:50:49

At long last, I could stretch out my hand and grasp the ski

0:50:490:50:53

that lay across the kayaks.

0:50:530:50:54

Nansen was numb with cold, and soaked through.

0:50:580:51:02

I never could have done this if I hadn't had a safety back-up team.

0:51:020:51:06

But Nansen had saved their provisions, he'd saved their lives, he'd saved the expedition.

0:51:060:51:14

It was the luckiest of escapes.

0:51:180:51:22

But if you thought THAT was lucky, what was about to befall them beggars belief.

0:51:220:51:27

They were about to experience one of the most extraordinary

0:51:290:51:33

and fortuitous coincidences in the history of exploration.

0:51:330:51:37

Over 15 months since Nansen had walked away from the relative comfort of the Fram,

0:51:400:51:45

and nearly a year since his provisions ran out,

0:51:450:51:49

in the middle of nowhere, lost, on an unknown Arctic island,

0:51:490:51:54

he heard the distant sounds of dogs barking.

0:51:540:51:57

Suddenly I was certain that I heard a strange voice.

0:52:010:52:05

The first for three years.

0:52:050:52:07

Behind that single human voice in the middle of this wilderness of ice

0:52:100:52:15

lay home, and she who was waiting at home for me.

0:52:150:52:19

-Hello!

-Hello!

0:52:280:52:31

-Hello!

-Hello!

0:52:310:52:35

I waved my hat, he did the same.

0:52:360:52:40

I came closer, and believed that I recognised Mr Jackson.

0:52:470:52:50

-How do you do?

-How do you do?

0:52:560:52:59

-How do you do?

-Aren't you Nansen?

-Yes, yes, I am.

0:52:590:53:03

'The man in black was a fellow explorer.

0:53:030:53:06

'The Englishman Frederick George Jackson,

0:53:060:53:09

'who Nansen had turned down for the voyage over three years before.

0:53:090:53:14

'Undaunted, he'd organised his own expedition, but he'd been misled by the very same bad map as Nansen.

0:53:140:53:22

'There was one crucial difference between the two men's predicament -

0:53:220:53:26

'Jackson had a ship, and knew the way home.'

0:53:260:53:30

-By Jove, I'm glad to see you.

-I'm glad to see you too.

0:53:320:53:36

It was a bitter-sweet moment.

0:53:360:53:38

Nansen's ordeal was over, but he was returning home

0:53:380:53:44

with his dreams of conquering the North Pole for Norway in tatters.

0:53:440:53:50

In a final coincidence, on 19th May,

0:54:020:54:06

exactly the same day that Nansen and Johansen left their winter lair,

0:54:060:54:10

the Fram at last broke free from the ice, and she sailed here,

0:54:100:54:16

to the most northerly inhabited place on Earth - the islands of Svarbard in the high Arctic.

0:54:160:54:22

And from a telegraph station that was just over there,

0:54:220:54:25

they sent the first message for over three and a half years to say they were safe.

0:54:250:54:31

In an emotional reunion, Nansen rejoined the rest of the Fram crew for the final leg,

0:54:530:54:58

and they fought back tears of joy as they sailed south for home.

0:54:580:55:02

They were re-entering the land of the living.

0:55:020:55:04

And not only had Nansen survived over three years in the Arctic wastes, he'd come home.

0:55:070:55:13

Although the expedition never achieved its goal, Nansen's legacy is phenomenal.

0:56:170:56:23

He'd gone further north than any man before, and opened up the Arctic to modern exploration.

0:56:230:56:30

His pioneering achievements inspired Captain Scott, Shackleton, Pirie and Roald Amundsen.

0:56:300:56:38

Amundsen even took the Fram when he beat Scott to the South Pole.

0:56:380:56:41

In a spectacular series of journals,

0:56:430:56:46

Nansen detailed hundreds of ground-breaking scientific observations still used today.

0:56:460:56:52

Whilst trapped in the ice cap, he discovered a new magnificent ocean,

0:56:540:56:59

developed the theory of Polar drift and launched the global science of oceanography into the 20th century.

0:56:590:57:06

Nansen went on to be an Ambassador for Norway,

0:57:090:57:13

and in 1922, he was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.

0:57:130:57:19

He passed away peacefully on this balcony in May 1930,

0:57:240:57:28

and is buried in the grounds of the house he designed and built here in Oslo.

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And long after he died, Nansen's innovations affect us all.

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Even today.

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He will never be forgotten.

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Two mountains bear his name, and even on the moon and Mars, you'll find a Nansen crater.

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Nansen was forever seeking results, whether in science, politics or exploration.

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He was inspirational and driven to the end.

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Few men in history can match him in stature, and for me,

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he'll always be the original incarnation of Polar explorer as hero.

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His expedition that never reached the North Pole was truly the most successful failure ever.

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Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 2006

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E-mail [email protected]

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