The Final Chapter An Island Parish

800 miles from the Antarctic Circle,

isolated in the freezing South Atlantic Ocean,

the windswept shores of the Falkland Islands

remain one of the most inaccessible places on the planet.

The hardy islanders - descendants of English pioneers,

Scottish sheep farmers and Scandinavian sailors -

are proud of their European roots.

But living 8,000 miles from the UK

has helped create a unique way of life on the Falklands.

It's winter and many of the islands' penguins species have headed

back out to sea.

I've got some fish for George.

But vet Steve Pointing has come across one

that hasn't quite made it.

You would like more, wouldn't you? That wasn't enough.

And there is a flurry of activity around Stanley as people get

ready to say an emotional goodbye to the Reverend Richard Hines

and his wife Jen. Their time on the islands is almost at an end.

It is all about Jen and Richard. Saying thank you,

saying farewell, shedding a few tears, I expect.

I should imagine there's going to be a few there -

-probably from me as well.

-SHE LAUGHS

Stanley, on East Falkland, is the islands' capital.

And it's been the Reverend Richard Hines' home for seven years.

But now he and his wife Jen are in the process of packing up,

ready to move back to the UK.

I've been so careful with this until now.

And that.

Part of me wants to be back in the UK because that is home,

that's where I grew up and everything.

But thinking about all the things that

I am not going to have any more...

Thinking of going back - the M25 - it's awful,

thinking just all that traffic on the road

and the...loss of so much open space.

Today, Richard is taking a flight to visit

two of his parishioners in West Falkland.

There are just four small planes that run from the tiny airport

and they are the main means of transport to the outlying islands.

Traditionally, farms on the Falklands were large sheep ranches

owned by non-islanders living abroad.

By the 1970s this form of tenant farming was causing many

people to leave the islands looking for better opportunities.

So the government decided to step in.

They bought and subdivided the larger farms

and sold the land back to the locals.

The 26,000 acres of Pebble Island

remains one of the few farms still owned and leased from the UK.

Come here.

Come on, birds, come on.

Despite never owning the farm, Arina and her partner, Raymond,

have connections to the land that go back over 100 years.

You going to come get some meat?

Hey, are you watching?

You're not very interested, you're already full.

Get your little brown eyes on this, look.

Cheers.

Right, he'll dive after it now.

Here you are, boy, you're looking.

You're looking, here it is.

When you have been here as long as we have then,

you know, you are very familiar with them.

Is it safe to approach?

Yes, it's safe to approach.

You've got the breakfast ready, I see.

-SHE LAUGHS

-What have I got to do?

-How hungry?

-Beg for it?

-LAUGHING:

-Yes.

Arina has been here for 24 years,

and Raymond has lived on Pebble all of his life.

But at the end of the month their tenancy is up.

In two weeks' time, they're leaving Pebble Island

and they are going to make their way to Stanley.

And that will be a farewell to this place that they know and love.

That their heart has been rooted in for all of these years.

So I just felt deep down inside me I wanted to visit them and say,

"Thinking of you."

I think they would liked to have stayed on a few more years

if they could have had their perfect choice, so to speak.

But it hasn't worked out for them for all kinds of reasons.

But it's going to such a massive change to leave

lovely, remote, beautiful Pebble Island behind.

We can just sit them here.

Anywhere. So we can just put these here.

You deserve a cup of tea now, would you like a cup of tea?

Now we're talking.

SHE LAUGHS

So what have you got still to do?

Oh, five generations of stuff we've got to pack up, you know.

Photographs and...

So your family goes back five generations on Pebble Island?

-Yep.

-1800 and something?

I can't remember.

-1860, wasn't it, or before that.

-Yes.

-Old man Betts came here with the gauchos.

-Yeah.

Yeah, it's going to be strange.

I was brought up here.

Worked here over 48 years, close on 50.

I don't like the idea of it, it's scary.

It is a massive change and so you have to consciously

and deliberately be a bit gentle with yourself.

You're to recognise that you don't know how you are going to feel

so don't be surprised if you feel yourself getting snappy or

you are lost or you don't quite know what you are doing.

You are losing all sense of time.

-Complete disorientation, I would imagine.

-Yeah.

It's a bit of a worry, really.

I think there are going to be sharp moments of real loss and grief.

I can draw on my own feelings maybe to try and understand how they

might be feeling, but there's a lot of difference between me spending

seven years here and them spending a lifetime on Pebble Island.

Every summer on the Falklands, a colony of around 1,000 pairs

of king penguins come to the archipelago to

breed during the warmer months.

By the time winter approaches, the chicks are fattened up and resilient

enough to be left alone while their parents return to the sea.

They come back to shore once every few months to feed their young.

It's a chilly morning on the outskirts of Stanley

and local vet Steve Pointing is casting his professional eye

over the penguins in the care of the Falklands Conservation team.

We've got George. The fairly fat one.

Yeah. And then we've got June.

-The skinniest of the three, perhaps.

-And Callum.

These two new birds, they came from Pebble Island, the same

as George, they'd swam through some oil when they've been out fishing.

They both look pretty healthy, don't they?

Yeah, they seem pretty lively and alert.

You can see quite clearly...

Come round this way.

Nathan McNally works with Falklands Conservation as a volunteer

and has been monitoring the penguins' progress.

Yes, it was the right eye, it was a wee bit goopy, but seems to be OK.

Yeah.

The largest of the three is George,

who has been with them for seven weeks.

And Nathan is hoping that he is almost fit enough

to return to the sea.

We're going to have a look at his right eye,

which has just got a little bit of a discharge.

Doesn't look like it's anything too serious,

but we'll just have a look in better light.

Right.

Here we go.

Let's have a look at this eye, shall we?

Let's see what your eye looks like.

The actual eye itself is fine.

It's just got a bit mucky on the feathers around the eye.

Oh, you don't want that. Right.

He doesn't like it very much.

He was found on Surf Bay, which is a small beach close to Stanley.

And he was bought in with some oil down one side of him

and we don't know how he got it.

It's probably from a ship, from it's bilges or something like that.

So it's just bad luck on George's behalf for getting it.

Obviously there may well be others that have also been covered in oil

and we probably will never see those if they don't come up onto a beach

-where somebody...

-Walks there.

-Yeah, absolutely.

Just use Fairy liquid.

That will wash away all the oils.

That process strips their natural oils,

so while we have got him here, essentially it's so

he can start preening and recharging his feathers with the natural

oils that keep them waterproof and ultimately warm in the water.

Yeah, the final stage is taking him into the pool for that last swim

and just checking to make sure he is really ready to go

out and return to the wild.

THEY CHEER

Jackpot.

And if only you had smelly vision.

How many times a day do you have to change trousers?

Normally not too often.

With the abundance of spectacular flora and fauna all around

the islands, it's heaven for wildlife enthusiasts.

And over in Stanley, Steve Massam has made a living out of it.

He's worked here for 13 years

as the Falkland Islands' resident animal artist and taxidermist.

I always describe taxidermy as tailoring in reverse, basically.

You've got the suit, you've just got to make a body to fit it.

I've always had an interest in natural history

from a very early age.

When I was about six or seven, my parents can remember me

finding boxes of bones under the bed.

Taxidermy really just came as an extension, really -

me wanting to preserve as much of the specimen as I possibly could.

Steve's long-term project is creating a diorama scene

for the museum, which will show the islands' unique birdlife.

Instead of just having individual specimens mounted on a small

wooden base or something, a diorama portrays

the habitat in which the specimens would be living.

It's got to be good for the museum

and it's got to be good for the wildlife of the Falklands as well.

He's been adding to his collection ever since he came to the islands.

And these days, everyone knows who to ring

if they find a potential specimen.

If I get a call and they say, "I've got a black throated finch,"

or it could be an albatross, dead seal and they...

they ask if I want it or the museum wants it and what to do with it.

The best thing to do is to just,

if it's something small, just to put it in the deep freeze.

I think I did a swallow that was in the deep freeze

for about 32 years, you know. So they can be kept a long time.

HE CHUCKLES

Over in the new museum itself, it's all go.

They're moving to a new, much larger site in the dockyard.

Will this one go on there?

And then you can take that one out.

After months of preparation, they're starting to pack up

200 years of the islands' history.

OK, that definitely can go with this next lot.

Maybe this too?

The museum director, Leona Roberts, has worked here for 12 years

and knows the story behind every exhibit in the building.

This used to be an Argentine bunker.

This used to be somebody's home. There were sheets of tin,

just as you would find them out and about all round the camp.

And lots of little bits inside

including the guitar that's in there,

letters from people in Argentina

and all sorts of random things that you do still find them, even now.

Then this really random and disturbing

travelling dentist's chair

which was pedal powered and according to some people

who still remember it being used -

it was used I think as late as the early '70s -

that it was fine if you went to see the dentist

early in the day, but by the end of the day his foot was getting

tired and so you would hear the drill slowing down and winding up.

It doesn't bear thinking about.

We are keepers of the islands' heritage really.

It's an enormous responsibility and actually just making this

first move into packing has bought it home even more.

Moving house is a stressful thing,

moving museums is something else entirely.

'88.3, 102, 105, 96.5 FM and 5.30 MW,

'this is Falklands Radio,

'putting the unity in community.'

In a moment, we'll hear Richard Hines on his last Simply Classical,

here on Falklands Radio.

During his years on the islands, Richard has regularly

presented a radio show with producer Monica Limburn.

Good evening and welcome.

My name is Richard Hines and sadly this will be the final

Simply Classical presentation I make before my wife Jen and I

bid farewell to the islands on Friday morning and return to the UK.

To mark this occasion, I've chosen to play pieces of music which

have found a special place in my heart,

'because they stunned me when I first heard them

'and because their impact has never really worn off since.

'A sort of metaphor, if you like, for the effect the Falkland Islands

'have had on me since we arrived nearly seven years ago.'

My thanks this evening go to Monica and for all the times in these

past seven years she's helped me present Simply Classical.

And thank you for sharing this final evening of music with me,

and thank you for sharing your islands with me.

-There we are...

-Done.

-Done.

-Really good.

-That's it.

-Give us a kiss.

Aw, bless you.

SHE LAUGHS

All around Stanley, people are preparing to say goodbye

to Richard and Jen.

After his final Sunday service,

they're throwing a farewell party in the town hall.

It's a traditional bring-and-share event,

so everyone is doing their bit.

Close friend Brenda Berntsen wants to make sure

the guests of honour know how much they have meant to the community.

I'm going to be a bit vain here and say they're probably extra special

to me because they're my spiritual parents, they are the ones that have

led me and guided me and taught me.

And they've just come to mean so, so much.

I'm sorry they're leaving.

Across town, nine-year-old Hugh Lilley

and his little brother, Oscar, are also keen to help out.

We once went to their house to show the expedition to South Georgia

and the Arctic and had dinner there, and it was really nice.

Yeah. I hope they enjoy them.

In the oven they pop.

At Government House, they're marking the occasion in a more formal manner.

This evening, Richard and Jen have been invited to

an official farewell ceremony.

With the Governor away on business,

deputy, Sandra Tyler-Haywood, is in charge of proceedings.

Ladies and gentlemen,

if I may interrupt your conversations for a short while.

Richard has become a real part of Falklands' community

and he's made it his job to get to know everyone.

And he's been there for everyone in good times and in bad,

and we are really going to miss you.

Ladies and gentlemen, it gives me the greatest honour to do this really.

Richard, the Falklands Veterans want to make you

an honorary member of SAMA.

GASPS AND APPLAUSE

The icing on the cake was Richard being told he's been made

an honorary member of SAMA. Now, people who don't know that,

that's a South Atlantic Medal Association.

So they're the veterans of 1982.

And to be made an honorary member of that association

is just mind-blowing. It is such a compliment.

And I have to say there was a couple who came up and they said,

"I've been thinking of several things I wanted to say to you,

"but it's crystallised down into one word - stay."

And I... I mean, part of us would love to stay,

but we know it's not possible.

But it's nice being told.

SHE LAUGHS

Well, thank you.

Right. We'll see what you're like with the water today.

At the Penguin Rehabilitation Centre,

Nathan and the island's vet Steve need to see if

George the king penguin is ready to return to the sea.

Before he takes a dip into the icy water,

he's fed his daily ration of fish.

These are called rock cod locally.

And we are putting them in headfirst

because that's the best way for them to go down the throat.

They don't seem to have an off switch when it comes to eating.

You'd like more, wouldn't you?

Yes, you thought that wasn't enough.

Yeah, he's pretty close to being released back into the wild,

so we'll pop him in the pool and see if he wants to go in

and it will be a good test to see if he's ready or not.

Let's give it a go and see what he thinks of the water.

Come on, George.

Just come on.

GEORGE SQUAWKS

Well, he's still a reluctant swimmer.

THEY LAUGH

-Do you not like it in there?

-No.

You can see the water is beading off his front there quite nicely,

so he's getting there.

You can definitely see the beading down there, can't you?

Yeah, yeah, it's starting but I think he's still not quite ready.

He's not fully waterproof yet so when he goes into the water,

water goes through the top layer of feathers

and then gets down to skin level.

But normally, if he was completely waterproof,

as he would be naturally,

he'd have a layer of waterproof feathers on the top

which would stop water getting down below that level.

So the water is cold and gets to his skin

and that makes him cold as well.

So that's why he's a bit reluctant to stay in there at the moment.

He's probably a week behind where we'd have liked him to have been.

But it's better to be safer than sorry.

Says, "I'm on the move again."

Yep.

For now, George is remaining on the island with his friends

June and Callum until he's fully waterproofed.

Careful there, George.

At the site of the new museum in the heart of Stanley,

they're still a month away from reopening for spring.

Inside, volunteers are unpacking over 5,000 historical objects that

have been transported across town, without a single breakage.

There's a lot to do and everyone is getting stuck in,

in a uniquely Falklands fashion.

Everybody has goose wings in their houses.

They're easy to get into corners,

like little delicate things like that.

I've always used one.

After years of preparation, artist-come-taxidermist Steve

is putting the finishing touches to his diorama of the islands' wildlife.

In pride of place is the king penguin.

The king penguin is perhaps seen as the iconic

penguin of the Falkland Islands.

And yeah, this one unfortunately got caught in a fishing net and it

was in a bit of a mess when it was found, when it was discovered.

But, fortunately, I managed to make a decent specimen out of it.

It's nice to finally, after about 12 years it's been,

I've been waiting to do something like this

and it's nice to see it finally come to fruition.

At Stanley airport, Arina and Raymond are arriving.

They've left their home on Pebble for the final time and have said

goodbye to the farm that Raymond and his family ran for generations.

Coming from an island with a population of just five

to Stanley where over 2,000 people are now living

is a daunting prospect, but they have bought with them

a very special cargo to help them feel at home.

14 of Arina's favourite hens have come to start a new life

with them in Stanley.

Arina and Raymond's new house isn't ready.

For now, they are going to stay with Arina's 91-year-old mother, Clara.

Yoo-hoo! Hello.

-Good morning! Morning!

-Morning.

I've got you some things from the container.

I saw, yes.

-Can I put them in the garden shed or whatever?

-Yes.

OK, righty ho. I shall go and get them.

How are we doing, girls? Oh, wow. One egg there.

Well, that's all right, we'll just leave that there.

There's lots of nice things to pick out here

but don't eat the flowers though

cos I don't think my mum would be very happy if you eat the flowers.

-I shall say ta-ta for now.

-Yeah, OK.

-See you later.

-See you later.

See you, love.

It must have been a terrible wrench, you know,

to be flying away over the land and looking down.

I know when I fly over and look

I always feel quite sad that I'm leaving the place,

so must have been really terrible.

On the west edge of Stanley is the Sapper Hill housing development

near several dangerous minefields left from the 1982 war.

The safe, flat land below the hill is in the process of being

developed into 41 new homes.

Most of the new housing will cater for people attracted to the Falklands

by jobs in the oil industry,

but one plot will become a new home for Raymond and Arina.

Not much of a house yet, is it?

Hopefully, in about three or four months

it will look a bit more like a house.

Few trees grow on the islands, so the majority of houses are built

from flat packs imported from the UK.

For now, all Arina has to survey are the muddy foundations.

This here is going to be my back porch.

We'll have a garage on there.

Up that side will be the sitting room, and another bedroom there.

Hopefully, in another six months, we'll have a house.

Complete change from Pebble Island.

I really, really, really miss my pet sheep,

seeing my pet sheep come down over the hill in the morning.

SHE SIGHS

Yes, I miss them.

Both our ancestors have been there for over 100 years.

In fact, some of our great-great-grandparents

and great-great-uncles and aunts.

So, you know, Pebble Island was sort of like our real home.

But never mind, these things happen and you just get on with it

and go somewhere else and do something else.

-LAUGHING:

-Sooner or later, I'll have a house.

Sunday morning in Stanley.

At the world's most southerly cathedral, it's the last day in

the job for Reverend Richard Hines, the islands' 29th incumbent.

Last Sunday service.

Feels a little bit strange.

I tried to imagine what it might be like but we'll take it as it comes.

Welcome. You made it.

We have lived on the islands for seven years

and during the course of that time

there have been periods where I have felt so completely at home here

and haven't been able to imagine what it would be like to go away.

And frankly, haven't wanted to leave.

Be assured that wherever we're serving God in the future,

we'll have carried you with us in our hearts and will continue

to remember and pray for you, as I'm sure you'll pray for us.

So to God Almighty, Father, Son and Holy Spirit.

-ALL:

-Be praised in glory forever. Amen.

CHURCH ORGAN PLAYS

CONGREGATION APPLAUD

How fabulous.

Where's my wife?

I don't recall ever walking out of a service and being clapped before.

Bit like being a Wimbledon champion, you know, the first thing

you want to do is clamber over the pews and go and see your wife.

I was keen that Jen should come out and just walk with me

because - from beginning to end - she has been my closest friend

and supporter and I couldn't have really done what I've done

in seven years here without Jen being beside me.

Being married to a vicar means that you do have opportunities to

meet a whole range of people right across the board.

Most people will say, "Sorry to see you go."

And then they'll pick up and they'll be fine,

but there will be one or two I think it will be most difficult,

because we have been, hopefully, we have been a part of their lives.

Thank you for everything you did around the time when Dad died.

I'll always picture you in your boiler suit.

-Very good. I'd put you first prize.

-Thanks!

The Falkland Islands is a unique place.

The spectacular scenery,

gorgeous views,

space and quietness that gets into your very soul.

Beautiful people and moments that we have shared.

Sad times and the glad times -

nothing but gratitude for having been here for seven years.