West Is Best An Island Parish

In the middle of the

South Atlantic Ocean, lie a group of islands that

despite being 8,000 miles from the UK have a

very British outlook on life.

The Falkland Islands with their wild,

rugged landscape and spectacular

wildlife are home to a close-knit community whose traditions

and way of life still hark back to the days of their pioneer ancestors.

As the festive season begins

two of the Falkland Islands' oldest families are being joined together

and the Rev Richard has to brush up on his wedding technique.

You'll be a little bit nervous, I'll be nervous as well. It's been

a while since I conducted a wedding. "What do I do next?"

And over at the military base,

Padre Al Nichol volunteers to help out with some basic training.

Police halt, I will release my dog!

I know which dog collar won!

These days 3/4 of the islands 2,500

strong population live in the capital

Stanley, on East Falkland.

But that still leaves 500 living

out on isolated farms and remote settlements.

The Islanders refer to this as living in Camp,

from the Spanish campo meaning countryside. And it's

generally agreed that if you want to experience the real Camp in all

its wild and windswept glory, then West Falkland is the place to go.

It's mid-December, the height of summer,

and the Rev Richard Hines is paying a pre-Christmas visit

to his parishioners on West Falkland.

I love coming beyond Stanley, just feeling the wind on my face

and seeing the beautiful Camp today,

the hills and the wind on the sea, it looks beautiful.

Who would want to be anywhere else?

The first recorded landing on either

of the two main Falkland islands was here on West Falkland in 1690.

Captain John Strong of the British Navy was on an expedition to

Chile and Peru when he sailed down Falkland Sound

and put in at Bold Cove.

The islands were uninhabited at the time but he recorded that he

found plenty of game and fresh water to help him continue his voyage.

These days West Falkland is home to 200 of Richard's parishioners.

The largest settlement is around Fox Bay where Norma Edwards is

hosting a Christmas get together.

It's lovely to see you all and it's wonderful for me

to be in Fox Bay again.

Christmas begins...or the final lead up to Christmas certainly

begins this evening as we start to sing our Christmas carols together.

# On the first day of Christmas my true love sent to me

# A partridge in a pear tree. #

When you live somewhere like this you don't get the chance to

go to church as much as you'd like to and Christmas for me,

when I didn't live at Fox Bay, was always

centred around the church from a very early age, you know?

So, that I miss. So, to actually have a carol service

and everyone gather for it is really nice.

# 11 pipers piping

# 10 lords a-leaping... #

When you're the vicar of the largest Anglican parish

in the world, which extends from the Falklands right the way down to the

British Antarctic Territories, travel is a big part of the job.

# Four calling birds... #

This year the Rev Richard

and his wife Jen will be spending Christmas 900 miles away from home.

They'll be going to one of the furthest outposts of his parish,

the tiny island of South Georgia.

Christmas time is an occasion when families get together,

here in the Falklands anyway, communities gather.

It's my opportunity to come and see people perhaps... Particularly this

year because I'm going to be away in

South Georgia. I'm very conscious of being away in South Georgia.

So to pop across to the West

here and a chance to say, "Be thinking of you."

But between now and the

21st of December when Richard leaves,

there's plenty to keep him occupied.

Richard's congregation may be spread over a vast area but there's

another community on the Falklands of roughly the same size that's

concentrated in a few square miles, 35 miles southwest of Stanley.

The Mount Pleasant Military Base was built in 1985, three years after

the Falklands conflict ended and is home to an ever changing population

of around 2,000 service personnel, contractors and their families.

Let us pledge ourselves anew to the service of God

-and our fellow men and women.

-A key member of this community is

the chaplain, the Reverend Squadron Leader Al Nicol.

..and support those working for the relief of the needy.

Known around the base simply as "Padre".

Platoon dismissed!

Padre Al has previously served in Iraq and Afghanistan

and is here on the Falklands on a four month deployment

leaving behind his wife and his two children in the UK.

I first felt a call to ministry in my early 20s, but always

alongside that...

I had tried out when I was 18 leaving school to come

into the Royal Air Force as a pilot, part of the Top Gun generation!

Tom Cruise and all that sort of thing!

I didn't cut the grade. I was never going to be an RAF pilot

but as the call to ministry developed

I very much felt that I could serve God

and serve the RAF at the same time.

The Falkland Islands has a very low crime rate,

most people don't bother locking their doors.

But Mount Pleasant is patrolled day and night by a military working

dog team who are responsible for the safety of all personnel on the

base and Padre Al has volunteered to help out with their training.

This is our full protective suit that we use for training

the dogs, so obviously it affords the handler full protection,

so the dog can bite wherever it wants to.

Oh, goody!

No, I think that's going to be a bit tight, we'll have to go

-without the helmet by the look of it!

-OK.

That will do. HE LAUGHS

I can't even kneel down to pray in this!

He's looking at me and drooling!

I'm Al, don't eat too much of me, please!

When you're ready, Padre.

Right ho, so I just start running?

Police halt! I will release my dog!

-Good boy. Good boy.

-Argh! You got me.

Yes! Good boy, good boy.

I know which dog collar won.

Back on West Falkland and Jim Woodward, a travelling teacher,

is packing up ready for one of his regular two week trips tutoring

children who live out on isolated farms.

I've travelled in Rovers and I've travelled in helicopter and

I've travelled on cruise ships and yachts and they pay me to do this.

It's absolutely excellent.

Today, Jim's headed to Spring Point on the far west of the island

where six-year-old Madison Evans lives with her parents

and their flock of 5,000 Dohne Merino sheep.

Madison's parents Mike and Donna are

relative newcomers to West Falkland.

We lived in Stanley for quite a while and Mike came home one

day and said, "We have a chance to buy a farm on the West."

I do think I pulled a face and thought, "Oh, right."

But 11 years on, I can't imagine living somewhere else.

Are we ready, are we steady? Go!

Madison is one of five children out in Camp that Jim teaches.

When he's not here she does her lessons over the phone with

a teacher in Stanley but for the next two weeks he will

live as one of the family and she'll get his undivided attention.

So what numbers have we got there? 8- 3 is...

5!

5, well done. It's just such a unique way of teaching.

You've got that one to one relationship.

-Can you remember what this one's called?

-A potato.

That's right, a sea potato. Can you see some of its spines?

They see you as a normal person rather than this

figurehead of a teacher and you get to see another side to them as well.

-Can you tell us what this flower is?

-Scurr...

-Vy.

-Scurvy.

Scurvy grass. Tell us what it tastes like.

It tastes minty.

Yeah? Minty, a bit minty?

The wool industry has been the lifeblood of the Falklands

since the first sheep were introduced here in 1847.

The largest farm on the islands has a flock of over 100,000 animals.

After the 1982 conflict the price of wool fell worldwide

but in recent years it's picked up again prompting

a resurgence in smaller family run operations like Mike and Donna's.

That's our bale brand.

Mike and Donna.. the two mad people that went to the West.

In this game you have to have a good sense of humour to put up

-with everything that comes your way, so...

-There you go.

Well, young man, I hope you've got a licence to film in my shed.

Shearing is the busiest time of year for Mike and Donna

but help is at hand.

Their three sons who are currently at school in Stanley

and England, are due home for the holidays

so the family will be all together for Christmas.

And celebrations are going to be especially joyful this

year for one couple in particular.

Accountant Jody and dock worker Steve are getting married.

They were both born in Stanley and met in Deano's bar,

the centre of the Falklands thriving darts scene.

We did the Mr and Mrs dart competition.

-We didn't get very far, did we?

-No, no.

No, we didn't, no. And then just at the end of the night Stevie

got down on one knee and proposed. We got some champagne.

How did you two get together then?

Many moons ago

at fireworks night we had...

Back in the time when you could get fireworks.

Yeah.

Probably the last time you could get fireworks down here

because of rules and regulations and that.

We had a firework display up on the corner and you had to put

money in and start up and the rest is history.

Just so romantic, isn't it?

-All went with a bang.

-Yeah.

Jodie and Steve have chosen to get married in the cathedral

and have asked the Rev Richard to conduct the service.

I bet there'll be quite a crowd outside,

two old Falklands families, quite big families, and lots of interest.

I hardly met a person this week who isn't coming to the wedding

or at least a part of the wedding ceremony.

Hi.

Weddings on the Falklands tend to be quite informal.

Any well wishers are welcome to pop into the cathedral and witness

the happy event so Jodie's printed extra service sheets just in case.

-Oh, excellent.

-Please excuse the chewed box, the cat go it.

It's angry.

What are we here for, because you are getting married?

I haven't gone anywhere in the last few days without people who

haven't been talking about the wedding.

My dad and my brother are just on their way in from the island.

So they said, "Keep your phone on in case were running late."

Now, you've crept slightly forward there.

Beside him, that's it get close together.

Start off as you mean to carry on.

Steve's sister Nina and Jodie's father Stephen arrive

just in time for the rehearsal.

Hi, hello. Welcome. All right?

Good, thanks and you?

So what day is the wedding, Stephen?

-21st.

-Good job, Daddy, well done.

Did we not start on what today is?

HE HUMS WEDDING MARCH

That's a good speed, that's a good speed. Not to slow.

For a small community like this marriage is a significant step.

It looks forward to the next generation or two.

I have not conducted that many weddings in the six

and a half years I've been here but I think it's about a year since

the last wedding I conducted here in the cathedral. I'm a bit rusty.

I hope I don't make too many mistakes.

A few miles west at Mount Pleasant military base Padre Al is awaiting

the arrival of his wife who's made the 18 hour trip from the UK

so they can spend a few days together before Christmas.

My wife Fi is arriving on the air bridge in the next half hour.

We've been married now for coming on two years. It was her first

experience of the military when she met me and married me.

I think she's getting used to it.

We have some plans for the week ahead,

get out and about see the islands, wine her and dine her.

Can't have my first kiss for two months with...soup on the breath!

The only way to get to Falklands direct from the UK is to take

what's known as the air bridge.

A twice weekly flight from

RAF Brize Norton, which stops off briefly

in Ascension Island before landing at Mount Pleasant 18 hours later.

-What are we looking for?

-Blonde, beautiful, about 21.

-Hello.

-Hello, my love!

Fi's visit also coincides with her birthday.

My 39th birthday on an aeroplane!

I said you were 21! Sh!

Sorry I'm 21 again.

HE LAUGHS

It's been really hard. Emotions are running high.

The day that he left I don't want to repeat that for a really long time.

But a couple of weeks in I got into a routine and being a teacher I was

very busy and I just had lots of structure and Skype has kept us

going, I think. Yeah.

This time of year is extremely busy for Padre Al.

Today though, he's got Fi to help him for his first major event.

A nativity carol service for the children

and families who live on the base.

It's the first time I've worn it so, yeah. We've got Mary.

Where's Mary? There's Mary, there's Joseph,

there's little baby Jesus in the manger.

-It's wonderful.

-It's brilliant.

With day-glo angels.

Yeah, of course, has to be.

Whoa, watch the bump. You like it, yeah?

And I think it should be the new uniform for Christmas.

Hello, everyone, and welcome to the station church St Cuthbert's.

A special welcome to all the children especially if you have been

involved in building this fantastic jumper that I'm wearing just now.

It's going to come in very handy later on in our service

looking at the Christmas story.

But before we get to that we will start our service with a very

special song.

CHILDREN SING

Put your hands up if you think you can tell me

what did the angels come to do?

Now, do you normally see angels flying around the sky

when you're walking around Mount Pleasant, no?

I think my role is very much a supporting role.

So, it's nice to be back together

and I know that Al looks out for me sometimes,

to think, "Have I covered everything?"

I'm Al's harshest critic.

THEY LAUGH

I usual get the debrief,

the post mortem of the sermon on the way up the road.

I like to think in a loving and constructive way.

Oh, definitely.

So you going to miss each other this Christmas?

Oh, that's going to be hard.

I think coming over has been wonderful but it just highlights the

-fact that it's going to be really difficult saying goodbye.

-Yeah.

At the FIGAS base in Stanley,

the Christmas rush is making things difficult for flight scheduler Cara.

PHONE RINGS

FIGAS, good morning Cara speaking. Is it going to be heavy?

OK, I shall let Carol know.

At this time of year demand for flights is very high and the FIGAS

fleet of four 10-seater islander planes

has been working at full capacity.

We've got one going to Hill Cove which is here, one to

Roy Cove. We've got four going to Spring Point and one to Port Edgar.

That's just all the children today.

And Spring Point flight's a special flight?

-It is. That's got my three nephews on it.

-Cara's nephews are her sister

Donna's boys, the eldest Dale, is on his way back from his

boarding school in the UK, while Nile and Shaun

are at school in Stanley.

-Stand up, stand on.

-As well the luggage, Cara also weighs each

of the boys to check that the plane won't be too heavy to take off.

OK, that's good, thank you.

Many settlements and islands on the Falklands have their own

airstrip and the Evans family have one right on their doorstep.

After a short 45 minute flight, it's straight home, where the boys'

first job is to decorate the house with their sister Madison.

Are you sure that's the way it's supposed to go, Nile?

The Christmas tree has been brought

out of storage and needs assembling.

TREE SQUEAKS

Is that supposed to happen?

That does not look right, Nile!

I think you missed some pieces.

I think you might have some pieces missing. Something's happened.

We always have an artificial tree because there are so few

trees around. We wouldn't want to cut one down for the day.

I didn't realise it would be so technical to put up a tree.

Do you ever feel isolated out here?

No, I don't. I don't think any of us do. No.

I mean, we will be home on our own at Christmas time

but we will see people in the next few days after that.

But no, this is a good life

and the Falklands Christmas is a lot different to the UK Christmas.

We never have turkey. We have lamb as our traditional food with

new potatoes, carrots from the green house and all the new veg.

What, everything for your Christmas dinner will come from your own farm?

Yes, apart from the Christmas pudding which I have bought.

SHE LAUGHS

In Stanley, at the Falklands Island radio station, breakfast

show presenter Trina Bernstein is nearing the

end of her daily broadcast.

A rather cloudy day particularly in the morning with some

outbreaks of rain likely.

Sheep chill factor is at 74, the risk is moderate to newly shorn sheep.

Christmas tune, my first one of the month.

You know what it's got to be, its AC/DC, Mistress for Christmas.

That's always my first Christmas tune, love it.

Trina was born on the islands but spent many years in the UK

and still keeps in touch with friends there.

What do you think people in the UK think of the Falklands?

Well, a lot of them still don't know where it is. Do they?

You know even though we had a war in '82 there like, "Well is it

"still at the top of Scotland?"

Nobody believed I was from here.

Apparently we sound like Australians down here or Kiwis.

Apparently I never lost that

and they used to say, "You're from New Zealand or somewhere."

I used to say, "No, I'm from the Falkland Islands,"

but if you listen to a true Falkland Islander who has never left

the islands you hear their twang like a Kiwi or an Aussie.

It's just, like, crazy.

Oh!

Quickly, darling, come to nan, come on quickly, say goodbye.

Quickly, sweetheart.

Hello, daring. Give nan a kiss? Love you. You going to say goodbye then?

Bye.

Over on the other side of town Wendy Reynolds is also

preparing for a musical Christmas.

Wendy came to the islands 10 years ago to work as a teacher,

she's now retired and runs Stanley's recorder group

and this year she's in charge of organising the carol service.

I'm going to just check my Christmas cake

because it's been in the oven, it's had its three and a half hours

cooking so I need to just check it's right and take it out.

Any secret ingredients in the Christmas cake?

There's a little bit of brandy.

And I think I shall probably end up feeding it with a little more brandy.

Before I came here I was living and working in Devon so I came

here from quite a small village, which actually

is bigger than Stanley!

I just love the community feeling, the way that everybody,

gets together and the fact that here I am organising

the Nine Lessons and Carols in a Cathedral for a small community!

Which, of course, I would never end up doing anywhere else.

It's really good.

You all got it? Ready? Good!

# Away in a manger

# No crib for a bed... #

I first of all came on a one-year contract

and by Christmas I knew it was place I wanted to be for a long time,

so I was able to renew my contract for seven years and when it came

to retirement it just seemed that it was the right place to be.

Everyone's concerned for everybody else

and it's a very supportive and friendly community.

I've probably had more cake

and tea here than I would ever have done in England!

As the Falkland Islanders get stuck in to enjoy the festive

season, one household in Stanley is packing up ready to depart.

It's the night before Richard

and Jen leave for their three week

round trip to South Georgia and beyond.

I was going to say I've now come into an area of complete

incompetence!

He doesn't know where to begin!

I have no idea what to do and we've been asked to take presents

to various people in South Georgia so...

So here we have, I don't know, it's something very soft and squidgy.

That's my best jumper there, that keeps me warm.

And is that part of your parish?

It's part of my wider parish, yeah.

So, I'm pleased to say I'm not abandoning my parish

at Christmas, far from it, but I am going to a different part of it.

A far flung part.

The gloves were bought for us by a friend,

you put batteries in the cuffs and they, sort of, keep your hands warm,

cos they have a little electric current to keep your hands warm!

So we are going to follow in the footsteps of Frank Wild

and Sir Ernest Shackleton but we're going to have little

batteries on the back of our hands.

The day of their departure dawns bright and clear

but before they go, Richard's got one very important duty to perform.

He's leading the congregation at the cathedral to celebrate Jodie

and Steve's wedding.

I feel a little bit nervous for their sakes, as well as for my own.

The Pooles and the Aldridges coming together, lots of

family and friends. The secret is to be well prepared in advance

so that on the busy day it's relatively easy and straightforward.

I hope that's not famous last words.

It's wonderful to see you all here today. We have come here today

in the presence of God to witness the marriage of Steven and Jody.

So, Steven John, will you take Jody May to be your wife?

-I will.

-And, Jody May, will you take Steven John to be your husband?

I will.

It's just a lovely occasion cos it reminds you of your own

wedding, even though that was 42 years ago.

I can still remember the elation of walking down the aisle,

so to see another couple making vows to each other...

From my privileged vantage point I can see the faces of people

and I can see what's in their hearts and such a happy occasion today,

Steve and Jody, as I said in my address, are a gift to people.

They are irrepressibly generous of spirit, it's lovely.

His last duty done, Richard can now take his leave of Stanley

and his parishioners here and join the Norwegian ship that's

making the two day sea voyage down to South Georgia.

-God bless you.

-Merry Christmas!

Bye-bye now!

When they set foot on dry land again, it'll be Christmas Eve.

Next time, Padre Al is flat out bringing Christmas

to service personnel all over the islands.

It's first service I've ever led on a ship,

never mind a ship of the Royal Navy!

We pray that you will encircle in your love and care those

that are celebrating Christmas in our family homes back in the UK.

It's the centenary of the Boxing Day races.

-Ready, go!

-And the governor himself joins in the action.

I got a foot in my thigh there, which was quite entertaining.

An unusual injury in a running race!

And Rev Richard heads south to the farthest

corner of his parish at the gateway to the Antarctic.

I'm just seeing a pod of fin whales blowing away in the distance,

rather extraordinary!