The Lady Who Flew Africa: The Aviatrix


The Lady Who Flew Africa: The Aviatrix

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Tracey Curtis-Taylor is setting out to fly the length of Africa.

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10,000 miles with no modern technology,

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just a joystick and pedals.

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Tracey will follow the same route as Mary Heath,

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the first person to fly solo from Cape Town to England in 1928.

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She was in a fur coat. She had her pearls.

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She was doing Africa in style.

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She was consciously making history and showing that women could do this.

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85 years after Mary Heath's African flight,

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Tracey will face many of the same challenges.

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From the beauty of the wilderness to war-torn countries.

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Tracey will also face new challenges -

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aviation fuel for her 1920s plane is scarce.

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There's more bureaucracy and Tracey wants to do it in less time.

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It took Mary Heath over 12 weeks.

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Tracey has just seven to reach Europe

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before the worst part of the winter.

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You're just this tiny speck, moving very slowly.

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You are so vulnerable.

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I am frightened.

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I think, "What am I doing?" I'm more frightened of not doing it.

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Ten years from now thinking,

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"I wanted to do it but I didn't quite have the courage to do it."

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On her arrival back in Britain, Mary Heath was celebrated

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as the greatest female pilot in the world

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but she died alone, penniless and completely forgotten.

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It was a meteoric career and then she disappeared from history.

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But she's coming back.

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Today, there are still only a few women in the world flying vintage

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biplanes. One of the best is Britain's Tracey Curtis-Taylor.

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I've always loved the smell of aeroplanes.

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I go to airports just to breathe in the kerosene.

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All the noise of the engine, the propeller,

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they're rattly old things.

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Very early on in my flying, I got into flying old aeroplanes.

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The women who flew during the '20s

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and '30s were a great source of inspiration.

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Amy Johnson did the first flight to Australia.

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Amelia Earhart flew the Atlantic, the first female to do so.

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You know, they are both celebrated and remembered.

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But, before all this, there was Mary Heath and, of course,

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she's been entirely forgotten.

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She starts at Cape Town International Airport.

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1-2-9, good morning to you.

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Shortly number one and there is traffic departing ahead from echo.

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It's one of the busiest in Africa, handling over 200 flights a day.

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Today is day one.

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And God knows what we're in for, really.

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Right.

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But I think I'm ready for anything.

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The minute you get into one of these aeroplanes, life becomes

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very, very immediate.

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I don't think of anything else, I'm just there.

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Equipment...

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Clear prop.

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6-3-0 continue the approach. The wind is still 1-8-0-1-5.

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I can't see in front of me so I'm looking over the side.

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I have to weave and zigzag.

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I look like I'm drunk when I'm taxiing.

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As Tracey reaches the runway, all other flights are suspended.

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The airport has been shut down until she leaves.

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November 5-6-200 rolling.

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Bye-bye.

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Today, Tracey will fly 400 miles along the coast

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of the Indian Ocean to Port Elizabeth.

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A commercial flight takes 90 minutes.

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At her top speed, it will take Tracey almost five hours.

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An open cockpit, at low level, it's so beautiful.

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You know, the wind is blowing in. You know, it's exciting.

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You know, I'm a mile off the coast. 50 feet off the water.

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The thrill and exhilaration of it overcomes any sense of prudence.

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Mary Heath filed reports on her adventure to newspapers

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around the world so an eager public could follow her journey.

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She based her book on her reports and the journal she kept.

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"Africa will always be the land of thrills and romance and wildlife.

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"Fear is a tonic and danger should be something of a stimulant."

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It's more than pleasure, it's ecstasy. I love it.

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I simply love being in the aeroplane.

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As in the 1920s, South Africa is dotted with runways and airports.

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They're all well equipped and, at least here, Tracey's

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specialist aviation fuel is readily available.

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If you can just give me the tank,

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I'll go up on the wing and fill it up.

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All the fuel is up here in the wing, up on the top here.

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Great, thank you.

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That'll do it.

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Thank you.

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Once I leave South Africa I'm really in no-man's-land,

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so I'm on my own, much like she was.

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And she crashed and was very lucky to survive it.

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What happens if I do have an engine failure?

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If I survive the crash landing, what happens then?

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"I began to feel the pain in the back of the head,

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"neck and shoulders which hints at the beginning of sunstroke.

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"The pains got worse and black blobs began to dance and flow before me."

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Alone in the wilderness, fast losing consciousness,

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Mary Heath's plane was hurtling towards the ground.

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Tracey, though, does make it to Bulawayo Airport

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but she wants to find out more about Mary Heath's crash.

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Historian and former RAF pilot Bill Sykes has taken a keen

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interest in Mary Heath's flight

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and believes he has located the area where she crashed.

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Having had a look through all the chronicles, newspapers

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and that sort of thing, we find she was an incredibly strong woman.

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To be the first person, and especially a woman,

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to go from Cape Town to the United Kingdom in 1928

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is really something.

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Bill takes Tracey on an hour's drive into the bush

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to the crash site.

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There's lots of thorn bushes and scrub

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and it's pretty rugged terrain, isn't it?

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I don't think I'd like to put an aeroplane down here.

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COW BELLS JINGLE

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She was in this sweltering heat, fighting nausea,

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fighting consciousness.

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If she could just sort of stall the aeroplane on

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and then lurch out through the undergrowth,

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I mean, she would... You know, you'd survive this.

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If I had to put the Stearman down in this,

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I'd just about manage it, I think.

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She would have been fighting it down. You know, just stick forward,

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diving for the ground because she was an aerobatic pilot, a racer.

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I think it would've been very natural to jam the stick forward,

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-get the aeroplane down.

-You go into automatic.

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You do everything that has to be done and I think any pilots,

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including me, we've experienced that, where you think afterwards...

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You think, "Did I really go through all the checks?

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"Did I really do all the right things?"

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You look back at it afterwards and you think,

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"I don't remember doing that but I did it."

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Never had to think about it.

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"I came to under some thorn bushes, with three native girls in

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"various stages of scanty undress, sitting back on their haunches.

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"They had steeped two of my handkerchiefs in milk

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"and put them on my head."

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I don't think I'd like to wake up and find myself under a thorn bush

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being resuscitated but, I suppose, surviving it, that was the thing.

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She survived it. She did a pretty good job of it.

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I think she did a really good job, yeah.

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Rescued by a local tribe, she was taken to Bulawayo to recover.

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Anyone who thought she might be put off her adventure

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was in for a surprise.

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She spent 16 hours asleep in the nursing home and then got up

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that morning and flew from the racecourse

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to Vic Falls, to Livingstone.

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-She carried on.

-She just carried on.

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Which I think is also an amazing thing.

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She must've had tremendous fortitude.

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I mean, any normal person would have given up and said,

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"Right, I'll stay in Bulawayo a week because the beer's cold

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"and the people are so nice." And it still is.

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Mary Heath wasn't the only adventurer in 1928.

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Three young men were also attempting to travel

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the length of Africa by car.

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They planned to meet with Mary at various towns along the route.

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Bulawayo's Vintage Car Club has come to the airport

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to give Tracey a sendoff.

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This is like the cars Mary Heath was tracking as she flew up Africa.

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They're stunning. I mean, look at this, British Racing Green.

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I would love one of these.

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-It is very heavy on the steering.

-Bloody hell, it is!

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Oh!

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One of the drivers was a journalist called Emil Milan.

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Mary and Emil would only meet on a few occasions

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but they still enjoyed each other's company.

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"I flew very low and dropped a bottle of beer,

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"a glass and a message.

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"'Godspeed and bon voyage, meet you in Abercorn.'"

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I feel there is absolutely no suspension, whatsoever.

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I mean, great! This is exactly the same sort of thrill,

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old cars and old aeroplanes.

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-How do I get out?

-Can you hoot, madam?

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Can you hoot?

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HORN HOOTS

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I reckon she's grand at what she's doing. I wish I could go with her.

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But you see, my wife won't let me!

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Seven days after leaving Cape Town, Tracey approaches Zambia.

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The journey takes her over Zimbabwe National Park

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and into the heart of wild Africa.

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The Zambezi River marks the border between Zimbabwe

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and Zambia. Tracey follows it north to Victoria Falls,

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one of the wonders of the world.

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This is the heart of Africa. For me, it's just magical.

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To fly at tree level, over the elephants, down the valleys...

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You know, along the rivers, elephants in the river,

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hippos in the river and I am 30 feet above them.

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You know...

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and then I land.

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And I'm moved beyond tears.

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It's just to clear any oil.

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Perfect.

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Bit of rubbish in here.

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Ah, I've got my biltong.

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I've got my survival blanket, my first aid kit.

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My maps.

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Tracey's about to take on her longest flight yet.

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Having reached the border of the Democratic Republic of Congo,

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she'll have to cross the airspace of three countries in just one day

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to make it to Tanzania before nightfall.

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The Congo is one of the most dangerous countries in the world.

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And she must convince the airport controllers

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her old plane is safe enough to fly.

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Come and have a look. So I fly it from the back seat...

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HE CHUCKLES

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Good?

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Nice?

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-HE LAUGHS

-I think she's crazy!

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The Congo has been in an almost constant state of civil war

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for 60 years.

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It's not difficult to fly it, that's straightforward.

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The problem is if I have...an engine failure.

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Just a sitting duck for somebody with an AK-47

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just...filling you with lead.

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Safely out of Congo airspace, there's another worry.

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Scrub's being burnt away for farmland.

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And it's on such a large scale that Tracey struggles to avoid the fumes.

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It's taken an extra hour to get around the smoke.

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And to reach her destination in Tanzania,

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Tracey needs a fuelling stop.

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Kasama Airport in northern Zambia has changed little since the 1920s.

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Tracey's landing is a big event.

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THEY SQUEAL

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Hi.

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Oh, thank you!

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TRACEY LAUGHS

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Do you know, these are my favourite flowers, frangipani.

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I understand you might need some fuel.

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I do, but I've just been told there's none on the field...

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-Oh, you'll have to go into town to find it.

-..which is unfortunate.

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Really? How far's town?

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-Ten minutes.

-Right.

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-Is there a loo around here first?

-There certainly is, let me show you.

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-I think it's order of priority.

-Definitely!

-It won't be fuel first, then loo?

-The loo and then the fuel.

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Thank you for coming to help.

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I need a couple of heavies to lift my fuel, I think.

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CHUCKLING

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-Do you have any aviation fuel?

-Nah!

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Do you have any fuel for aeroplanes? WOMAN LAUGHS

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That's what I need, seriously.

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Well, they're selling eggs.

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DOGS BARK

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Welcome.

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It's loaded, we're ready to go.

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Finding the fuel has taken over an hour.

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And there are no electronic pumps at the airport.

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This could take a while.

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Refuelling just as Lady Heath did in 1928.

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But there's an additional delay.

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We have a lot more paperwork than she does.

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We can only operate in our own era.

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It's been an exhausting day

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and there's another early flight tomorrow.

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Mary Heath took time to enjoy Tanzania, going on hunts,

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attending parties and playing tennis,

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but Tracey is flying gruelling legs each day.

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What Mary Heath took a leisurely month to accomplish,

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Tracey does in five days.

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And the pace is taking its toll.

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I've had this, erm, streaming head cold for the last three days,

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which has been, erm, horrible.

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And I think it's worsened by flying, because you're sort of

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up at altitude, and the pressure, and I just have these ringing ears.

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We've been doing 12-, 14-hour days, so it's...it's intensive.

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And I'm tired, I am actually tired. I think everybody's tired.

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And we're only halfway!

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Tracey's next flight is over the Rift Valley.

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A giant fault line that leads up to the Equator.

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Most women in the 1920s

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wouldn't be able to dream of an adventure like this.

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They were expected to marry and raise children.

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Mary Heath had different ideas.

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Before her African flight, she married 75-year-old Sir James Heath.

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Eyebrows were raised when, instead of going on honeymoon,

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Mary ventured on a solo trip up Africa.

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Like Mary, Tracey has chosen adventurous flying

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over raising children.

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When you go the conventional route in life, and that's where

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you have a family, I think that sets you on a different course in life.

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I'm not in that situation

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so I can afford to live my life in a more adventurous way.

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She's a survivor but she's an outsider, too.

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And I think those are the things that I relate to.

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It's her love of adventure and her need for adventure.

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You know, it just makes you a misfit.

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November 5-6-200 is ready for departure, 0-9.

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Fate has somehow conspired to give me this terrifying freedom...

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and the aeroplane.

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In the Rift Valley, tectonic plates are still moving,

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causing earthquakes and volcanic eruptions.

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Lake Natron is a natural phenomenon.

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Its temperature can reach 140 degrees,

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and where the water evaporates it leaves a layer of toxic chemicals.

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You know, a few people have crashed in the lake,

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because you get this distortion and you sort of lose the horizon.

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People just become mesmerised by the surface of it.

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It's as if somebody has put a pearl in your hand when you can fly.

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You know, this rare gift.

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It's the view of the gods, isn't it? It's this wonderful perspective.

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Next stop, Kenya.

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Tracey comes to a nature conservancy outside of Nairobi,

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to see some of the few remaining rhinos left in the wild.

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Today it's illegal to hunt rhino in Kenya

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but they face a new threat.

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Rhino horn is mistakenly believed to have medicinal properties

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and can fetch up to 100,000 a kilo on the black market.

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Tracey's meeting Sarah Watson from the conservation charity Tusk.

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His head almost looks like a turtle.

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I could just take this little one home, actually.

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-I don't think he'd fit in the plane!

-Ooh, I could cram him in.

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The extra weight!

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OK?

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Gone. It's all gone.

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So when Mary Heath flew here in 1928, what would she have seen?

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-There were hundreds of thousands of them.

-Yeah.

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There's pictures from, like, the 1940s, I guess,

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-and there's pictures of the herds of cattle with rhino in-between.

-Yeah.

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So, yeah, the population's been completely decimated.

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Completely decimated.

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Rhinos have great hearing but poor eyesight.

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A full moon puts them in a spotlight for poachers.

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On the last morning of Tracey's stay, there's terrible news.

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There has been reported poaching of rhinoceros.

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A rhino's been killed. A security team are now hunting the poachers.

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-Good morning, how are you?

-Are you John?

-Yeah.

-Tracey. Nice to meet you.

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-Nice to meet you.

-I'm sorry. So...another killing.

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-Terrible.

-What happened?

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The first thing happened is that the gunshots were heard

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by one of the lodges which is close here, and the time that we know

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that there's gunshot inside here, definitely that's poaching.

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Do poachers get killed here?

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In case of any contact between the rangers and the poachers,

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yeah, lots of times somebody will die.

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So it's really a terrible, terrible...

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-It's like a war, isn't it?

-No, no, it's a war, it's a war.

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-It's not like a war, it's a war.

-It is a war.

0:29:530:29:56

We go?

0:29:590:30:01

FLIES BUZZING

0:30:110:30:14

She have her calf. 2.5 years.

0:30:140:30:17

-Where's the baby? Where's the baby?

-The calf is...

0:30:170:30:19

-The guys, they are still searching for the calf.

-My God.

0:30:190:30:23

What a... What a waste.

0:30:260:30:28

I suppose you see a lot of this, but I don't.

0:30:310:30:35

You come to these places and it's all so beautiful and idyllic

0:30:460:30:49

and we have such an idealised notion of things.

0:30:490:30:52

And then you see that.

0:30:530:30:55

It's a terrible sort of... juxtaposition, really.

0:30:570:31:01

Tracey heads to Nairobi.

0:31:140:31:16

She still has 5,000 miles to fly across the hottest

0:31:160:31:20

and most dangerous parts of Africa before she returns home to England.

0:31:200:31:24

Today I am going to the Mutumba, which is a sort of...

0:31:410:31:45

a famous street market, to try and find some gear for the Sudan.

0:31:450:31:50

So, yeah, should be quite fun.

0:31:500:31:52

Given Tracey's plane only has one small compartment for gear,

0:31:560:32:00

she must choose what she takes very carefully.

0:32:000:32:04

Do you know, I can never resist a carpet.

0:32:040:32:08

I could just about sleep on that in the desert.

0:32:080:32:11

-Is that all right?

-Yes.

-Thank you.

0:32:110:32:13

So no tent, no tarp, but a nice silk Persian rug.

0:32:130:32:19

I think it's a triumph.

0:32:190:32:22

Thank you.

0:32:220:32:23

Another bargain.

0:32:230:32:25

-How much for this?

-This one? Ah, no...

0:32:270:32:29

That's what I need, I need that for the Sudan.

0:32:290:32:31

-We are not selling this one.

-Where do I buy one like this?

0:32:310:32:34

It's because for dusting. I might use it.

0:32:340:32:36

It's what they have, though, don't they, in the desert?

0:32:360:32:39

OK, you can take it for 300.

0:32:390:32:41

Thank you!

0:32:430:32:44

I've got a good eye for these things.

0:32:460:32:47

Always been good on furnishings, soft furnishings,

0:32:470:32:50

so I'm actually delighted.

0:32:500:32:52

Tracey now faces a new challenge.

0:33:000:33:03

Entebbe in Uganda is on the other side of a high mountain range.

0:33:030:33:07

It'll be the first time she's flown it this high.

0:33:080:33:11

In 1928, Sudanese authorities were so worried for Mary's safety

0:33:580:34:03

that they required her to fly with an escort.

0:34:030:34:06

In 2011, Sudan divided into two,

0:34:070:34:11

in an attempt to end Africa's longest-running civil war.

0:34:110:34:15

But the region is extremely volatile still

0:34:150:34:18

and Tracey must find a safe route through.

0:34:180:34:22

The Ministry of Defence back in England, when I was briefed on this,

0:34:230:34:26

they said...they didn't really want us to go through the Sudan.

0:34:260:34:30

But, you know, there are these corridors that

0:34:300:34:32

the United Nations use to get stuff through,

0:34:320:34:35

so I'm hoping that, you know, we're going to be OK with that.

0:34:350:34:39

I am nervous about what lies ahead, it's unknown.

0:34:410:34:45

She follows the Nile to Malakal in South Sudan,

0:34:470:34:50

on the dangerous border.

0:34:500:34:53

Situated on the banks of the Nile

0:34:570:34:59

and close to the country's oil reserves,

0:34:590:35:01

Malakal is one of the most hotly contested towns in all of the Sudan.

0:35:010:35:06

With the conflict situation changing daily,

0:35:350:35:38

Tracey wants to make sure her flight path is still safe.

0:35:380:35:42

She meets weapons inspector James Bevan,

0:35:430:35:45

who's agreed to help her find the best path.

0:35:450:35:49

-Tell me about this area out here...

-Yeah.

0:35:500:35:52

..because we've got fuel now positioned out to the west here.

0:35:520:35:55

-It's clear that there's a lot of, er, armed activity...

-Yeah.

0:35:550:35:59

..in and around that area. Particularly the Nuba Mountain area.

0:35:590:36:03

Erm, you also have South Sudanese-backed armed forces

0:36:030:36:07

who are operating along this area.

0:36:070:36:09

And that's where that UN helicopter was shot down.

0:36:090:36:12

And they told me they just burnt an entire village as well,

0:36:120:36:15

-I mean, it was sort of tribal.

-Yes, a few weeks ago, yeah.

0:36:150:36:17

-Was this just a few weeks ago?

-Yeah, killed 80 people.

0:36:170:36:21

Erm, but this area, at least two or three rebel groups

0:36:210:36:23

that are in negotiations with the government.

0:36:230:36:26

So this area's quite calm.

0:36:260:36:27

The safest route is to stay close to the Nile and follow it to Khartoum.

0:36:290:36:34

Before she can leave, the tower must agree it is, though, safe to fly.

0:36:460:36:50

Until then, all she can do is wait.

0:36:530:36:55

This was my purchase. Back in Nairobi.

0:37:030:37:07

I knew it would come into its own.

0:37:070:37:09

So we scrambled at, you know, 6:30 this morning out of the hotel,

0:37:090:37:14

got here for seven, all good to go,

0:37:140:37:16

and here we are, you know, four hours later.

0:37:160:37:19

And we're just waiting to see if word comes through

0:37:200:37:23

but our cut-off point is about one o'clock.

0:37:230:37:26

I have diminishing hope now of getting out today.

0:37:260:37:29

Finally, word comes through.

0:37:310:37:34

She could face a long wait in the scorching heat of Malakal,

0:37:350:37:39

in a country that is still in a state of civil unrest.

0:37:390:37:43

Nothing flushes, there's no running water.

0:37:460:37:49

There's a bucket of Nile water. Fine, I just wash in that.

0:37:490:37:52

Or not, as the case may be! I've sort of given up.

0:37:520:37:56

All personal hygiene has gone to the...

0:37:560:37:59

We are now, erm, our third night in Malakal.

0:38:000:38:04

I find myself thinking, you know, late into the night,

0:38:040:38:08

because it is very difficult to actually sleep in this.

0:38:080:38:13

Erm, but I do have these moments of...

0:38:130:38:16

I have these moments of...fear.

0:38:170:38:20

We're getting out. We're very optimistic about getting out,

0:38:330:38:37

so with any luck we'll be airborne

0:38:370:38:39

by, I don't know, seven, 7:30 this morning,

0:38:390:38:41

have gone up the Nile and into Khartoum by midday.

0:38:410:38:45

-Good flight. Good luck.

-Take care. Bye.

0:38:560:39:00

Right. Clear prop.

0:39:010:39:03

Malakal, good morning. This is November 5-6-200.

0:39:050:39:08

After four days in Malakal, Tracey leaves unscathed,

0:39:090:39:13

heading over the border into the Republic of Sudan.

0:39:130:39:16

Stretching over 4,000 miles,

0:39:350:39:38

the Nile is the longest river in the world.

0:39:380:39:42

For both Mary and Tracey, it's a guide northward

0:39:420:39:45

to the Mediterranean Sea.

0:39:450:39:48

MUEZZIN CALLS

0:40:030:40:05

Another early start.

0:40:140:40:15

And the Nile leads Tracey into the desert.

0:40:180:40:21

She's flying to Dongola in the north of Sudan,

0:40:230:40:26

in the heart of the Nubian Desert.

0:40:260:40:29

It's like flying into infinity.

0:40:300:40:33

You just never want to land, you just want to fly on.

0:40:380:40:42

Even in a land of ancient wonders,

0:41:040:41:06

her old plane is still something of a curiosity.

0:41:060:41:10

Howdy.

0:41:140:41:15

-How are you, very nice to meet you.

-Fine, welcome, you are welcome here.

0:41:190:41:22

Alhamdulillah, welcome to you all here.

0:41:220:41:24

Well, this is marvellous, thank you. What a lovely runway. HE LAUGHS

0:41:240:41:28

I don't know what this place is but it's somewhere north of Dongola

0:41:350:41:38

but, erm, it's amazing. I don't think it's changed much.

0:41:380:41:43

There's a few electricity pylons and a few cell towers

0:41:430:41:45

but by and large it's just desert.

0:41:450:41:47

And just pierced by these minarets, their mosques.

0:41:480:41:52

This is rather lovely, we're in the desert now and there's no moon,

0:42:020:42:06

so there's the most amazing starscape above us.

0:42:060:42:11

And we're just eating a lot of beans and bread...

0:42:110:42:15

here in the sand.

0:42:150:42:17

You can't see stars like this anywhere.

0:42:210:42:24

Falling stars and, you know... So lots of wishing going on.

0:42:240:42:27

I want this to be...

0:42:290:42:31

You know, I want it to be a success.

0:42:310:42:34

We're off to Egypt. It's a hell of a long way.

0:42:470:42:50

Everything in the air shrinks below me.

0:43:010:43:04

Ancient Nubians built the first irrigation canals along the Nile

0:43:110:43:14

to create a fertile valley in the desert.

0:43:140:43:17

In 1970, Nubians helped build the Aswan Dam over the River Nile

0:43:360:43:41

to create Lake Nasser.

0:43:410:43:43

At 340 miles long, it's one of the largest

0:43:430:43:45

man-made lakes in the world, and marks the border with Egypt.

0:43:450:43:49

Tracey has flown 30 legs through ten countries now.

0:44:060:44:10

But she has an important decision to make about the rest of her journey.

0:44:120:44:16

The original plan is to follow Mary Heath's route through Libya

0:44:180:44:21

to Tunisia for the shortest sea crossing to Europe.

0:44:210:44:25

But Libya remains in the grip of civil war.

0:44:280:44:31

Kidnappings and killing are on the rise.

0:44:320:44:36

30-plus killed in Benghazi...

0:44:380:44:41

..in the last few weeks.

0:44:420:44:43

Tracey has to weigh up the risks of sticking to Mary Heath's route.

0:44:430:44:48

The only real reason she went all the way along North Africa

0:44:480:44:52

to the point of Tunis and then actually flew up to Sicily

0:44:520:44:55

is to minimise her crossing over the water.

0:44:550:44:59

So she was really keen to keep that to a minimum.

0:44:590:45:02

She was terrified of the water.

0:45:020:45:04

I am more terrified of Libya, I have to say.

0:45:050:45:08

I'd like to go from Egypt direct across the Mediterranean to Crete.

0:45:080:45:13

But it does mean I've got a much longer water crossing,

0:45:130:45:15

I'm very vulnerable to the wind,

0:45:150:45:17

and, of course, it's disappointing in fact that we're not doing Libya.

0:45:170:45:22

But it's looking like that is the decision.

0:45:220:45:25

The new route means Egypt will be

0:45:260:45:28

the last country in Africa she visits.

0:45:280:45:30

After a short hop to Luxor, she prepares to fly to Cairo.

0:45:330:45:38

At high altitudes this far north, the temperature is almost freezing.

0:45:400:45:44

Tracey has to land at a desert airport outside of Cairo,

0:46:040:46:07

hours away from an important meeting she has the next day.

0:46:070:46:11

Horrific. I can't even feel my feet.

0:46:220:46:25

On the ground, traffic is chaos.

0:46:250:46:28

HORNS BLARE

0:46:280:46:30

It's just the day is beginning to feel endless.

0:46:300:46:33

Thank you, thank you.

0:46:370:46:39

MUEZZIN CALLS

0:46:390:46:41

Welcome to Cairo.

0:46:410:46:43

Great(!)

0:46:430:46:45

When Mary Heath arrived at Cairo, she was hoping to see Emil

0:46:480:46:52

and the car rally, triumphantly finishing their mission.

0:46:520:46:56

But forging a road had proved far more difficult than flying

0:46:560:47:00

over the continent.

0:47:000:47:01

Emil wouldn't make it to Cairo for another month,

0:47:010:47:04

by which time Mary would be long gone.

0:47:040:47:08

But Tracey has more luck.

0:47:140:47:17

Emil's grandson, Marius, lives in Cairo,

0:47:210:47:25

and Tracey has arranged to meet him.

0:47:250:47:27

-Hi, Tracey.

-Marius.

0:47:280:47:31

-Or should I call you Mary?

-Hello.

-You feel like her.

0:47:310:47:34

-Welcome to Egypt.

-Lovely to meet you.

-It's lovely to see you.

0:47:350:47:39

Oh, so this is his diary?

0:47:390:47:40

This is his diary written along the way,

0:47:400:47:43

which he always intended to, erm...to turn into a book.

0:47:430:47:48

And this is...

0:47:480:47:50

-the only photo I have of the two of them together.

-Oh, really?

0:47:500:47:55

-She's great, though, isn't she? She's there in her hat.

-Yeah.

0:47:550:47:58

So she does cut a very glamorous figure, doesn't she?

0:47:580:48:01

She's very smart, yeah, she was.

0:48:010:48:03

Both of them were part of this era of beautiful machines

0:48:030:48:07

and beautiful people doing...daring things.

0:48:070:48:10

It's a very glamorous age, isn't it?

0:48:100:48:12

-So did they meet again?

-I'm not...

0:48:120:48:15

-Did they only meet in Africa?

-I'm not sure about that.

0:48:150:48:17

There was always a certain...

0:48:170:48:19

..embarrassment about it -

0:48:210:48:23

they were both married at the time that they met and, erm...

0:48:230:48:27

and both, I think, escaping from... rather unhappy marriages.

0:48:270:48:32

-So they both went on these expeditions to escape?

-I think so.

0:48:320:48:37

And they were looking for adventure...and excitement.

0:48:370:48:42

And with my grandfather it was fast cars and with her it was flying.

0:48:420:48:47

It's funny, I've thought about that, you know, my own life has just been

0:48:470:48:50

such a ridiculous soap opera for the last year.

0:48:500:48:53

Suddenly, you know, you've got the whole of Africa

0:48:530:48:55

and the most beautiful flying machine in the world,

0:48:550:48:58

and that was more real to me, in fact, than my...

0:48:580:49:01

you know, my emotional life.

0:49:010:49:03

You know, I think you're exactly like they were.

0:49:030:49:06

It's romance, beauty, to dream something...

0:49:070:49:12

..beyond the ordinary.

0:49:140:49:16

It is the end of...

0:49:250:49:27

..the most extraordinary chapter.

0:49:280:49:31

It's the end of a...of a phase, I do recognise that.

0:49:320:49:36

The whole purpose of my flight was to give her her place in the sun.

0:49:420:49:47

Now she feels like part of me.

0:49:490:49:51

Tracey has one more flight before she leaves Africa.

0:50:010:50:06

She's heading to Mersa Matruh on the coast,

0:50:080:50:10

the closest point in Egypt to Europe.

0:50:100:50:13

Europe.

0:51:200:51:21

Home.

0:51:220:51:23

But storms are gathering in Europe and moving south.

0:51:250:51:29

If Tracey's to avoid them, she must fly today.

0:51:310:51:35

After 40 days flying over Africa, it's finally time to leave.

0:51:360:51:42

Clear prop.

0:51:440:51:46

ENGINE BACKFIRES

0:51:500:51:51

ENGINE BACKFIRES

0:51:560:51:58

It's an ignition problem, I don't know what it is.

0:51:580:52:00

But if it means we miss our slot then we are in the shit.

0:52:000:52:04

For the first time on her adventure, Tracey's plane has broken down.

0:52:070:52:11

With storms on the horizon, it must be fixed quickly.

0:52:140:52:18

ENGINE BACKFIRES

0:52:370:52:38

We've drawn a complete blank with the Stearman,

0:52:510:52:53

nothing's working, it seems to be

0:52:530:52:55

getting worse, and we can't seem to really diagnose the problem.

0:52:550:52:58

The Egyptians have all gone to sleep, or they've gone to prayers,

0:52:580:53:02

so we're now on our own until we resolve the problem.

0:53:020:53:05

Could have happened in Libya.

0:53:050:53:07

Or it could have happened, actually, over the water

0:53:070:53:09

as we're crossing to...to Crete,

0:53:090:53:12

so there's some relief that it's here on the ground

0:53:120:53:15

but, of course, we wanted to get out of Egypt, desperately.

0:53:150:53:18

While the engine's being examined,

0:53:200:53:22

one of the worst storms for 200 years hits Egypt.

0:53:220:53:26

The only place to keep Tracey's plane safe

0:53:350:53:37

is a bunker which is usually used for missiles.

0:53:370:53:41

Oh, it's completely unflyable.

0:53:470:53:50

There must be 70...

0:53:500:53:52

..70, 60, 70 mile per hour winds out here, so...

0:53:530:53:57

I've got my sunglasses on like goggles because there's just

0:53:570:54:00

so much sand and...

0:54:000:54:03

it's just firing missiles at me.

0:54:030:54:05

These terrifying winds, you know, this din, this roar all the time.

0:54:100:54:14

I just want to just be safe and be still,

0:54:140:54:17

but we've got to finish the job.

0:54:170:54:19

Oh, they have fixed it.

0:54:280:54:30

They've fixed it and he sounds very confident about it.

0:54:300:54:33

It's just slightly calmer this morning, well, a lot calmer,

0:54:380:54:40

and we're going to try and get across the Med at about lunchtime.

0:54:400:54:44

Well...

0:54:510:54:52

can't quite believe it.

0:54:520:54:54

Caught in the European winter, Tracey's progress home is slow,

0:55:250:55:30

and it's not until the turn of the year that Britain comes into view.

0:55:300:55:34

After 10,000 miles, Mary Heath arrived safely home.

0:55:400:55:45

She was the first person to fly solo from Cape Town back to the UK.

0:55:450:55:49

And her adventure would inspire a generation of women aviators.

0:55:510:55:56

-CONTROL TOWER:

-Have you visual now, approach at your discretion,

0:55:580:56:02

the surface is 250 degrees, 1.1 knots.

0:56:020:56:06

One of them, Tracey Curtis-Taylor,

0:56:060:56:08

who is just minutes from completing her own African adventure.

0:56:080:56:13

Welcome home, ma'am.

0:56:200:56:21

It wasn't looking good there for a while.

0:56:320:56:35

-Goodwood never looked so good.

-Nice to see you. Well done.

0:56:350:56:39

When Mary Heath returned home, she became an international hero.

0:56:510:56:56

But a year later, she crashed in an air race and was seriously injured.

0:56:560:57:00

By the time she'd recovered,

0:57:020:57:03

the public had adopted new heroines

0:57:030:57:06

like Amelia Earhart and Amy Johnson,

0:57:060:57:09

and Mary Heath died at 42, alone, penniless and forgotten.

0:57:090:57:15

Until Tracey Curtis-Taylor, a modern-day aviatrix,

0:57:160:57:21

decided to bring her back.

0:57:210:57:23

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