Episode 1 Ewan McGregor: Cold Chain Mission


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Transcript


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This programme contains some strong language.

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-BIKE ENGINE STARTS

-I've been an ambassador for the United Nations

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children's organisation, UNICEF, for eight years.

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And I've travelled the world to see the work they do protecting

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and saving the lives of vulnerable children.

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There's a vast network that spans the globe,

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taking life-saving vaccines to children

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living in some of the most remote areas on the planet.

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Look where we are!

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The routes are called cold chains.

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These cold chains are run by governments and various non-profit groups.

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Our mission is to take life-saving vaccines to children

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along three of the world's toughest cold chain routes.

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-HORNS BEEP

-The traffic's just unbelievable!

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Go on, son! Go on, go on, go on!

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Along the way, they must be kept cold or they'll perish.

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I've been on some adventures, but I've never done anything quite like this before.

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They said we were going remote,

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and this is about as remote as you can imagine.

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It's the perfect kind of match of furthering my work with UNICEF

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and, at the same time, going on an adventure, which I like to do.

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The comparison between my life and where we're going will be total.

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For instance, we've got water here. If my children get ill, I've a doctor down the road.

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If they get really sick, a hospital's round the corner. And I've got food in the fridge.

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I imagine when we get to the very far reaches,

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children won't have any of those things.

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From LA, I fly to London, then on to Delhi,

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and finally, the city of Patna in north-east India -

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a country on the verge of eradicating polio.

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HORNS BEEP

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Patna is the capital of India's poorest state, Bihar,

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and where we'll begin our cold chain journey.

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With a population of over two million,

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it's also one of India's fastest-growing cities.

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I need to find my guide, a health worker called Sadique.

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He's here somewhere, next to a temple.

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Do you know where there's a temple? Like a temple? Do you know a temple?

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Man-day? This way? OK, thank you.

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-Are you Sadique?

-Hi, I'm Sadique.

-I'm Ewan, nice to meet you! How are you?

-I'm fine, thank you.

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Sadique works with international organisations alongside the Indian Government

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to help combat the spread of polio in Bihar.

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We'll be delivering vaccines to three hotspots

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where children are at risk of polio -

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a community of migrant workers found along the Kosi river,

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the border between India and Nepal,

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crossed by tens of thousands of people each day,

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but first, a nomadic camp right here in Patna.

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The camp is located on the banks of the Ganges river,

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beneath a huge bridge.

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Oh, that's very clever!

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'The children living here are migrants from the surrounding areas

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'whose parents have come to the city in search of work.'

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Oh, I see!

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Oh, I see.

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No I haven't seen a five-legged... It's made me feel a bit weird, that!

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That is a peculiar thing!

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Right.

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Cos she's got an extra leg?

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OK.

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Because the families here come and go,

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it's very hard to keep track of whether the children have been vaccinated or not.

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Immunisers use informers to tell them when migrants arrive,

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and today, there are around ten new families to vaccinate.

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Nice to meet you.

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This is the vaccinator.

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In order to quickly tell whether a vaccine is OK to use,

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health workers refer to a heat-sensitive label.

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-This is one that's not good?

-Yeah.

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So, the first sign is the square in the middle goes dark

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and then the circle becomes darker?

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Right, OK. Right.

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One bottle can immunise up to 20 children.

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When they vaccinate a child here with the polio drops,

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they put a black mark on their pinkie, on their nail,

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which lasts for a month or something. So when they come back,

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there will be children they haven't seen before,

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but if the child's got a mark, they know it's been vaccinated.

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And if it's not there, they know to give the child the drops.

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Let me see. Oh, there it is, look.

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Look at this little face!

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GROUP CHATTER

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-SNAKE HISSES

-Oh, my God, look at that!

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CHILD CRIES

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This is a slightly strange place to be immunising children,

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but this little boy is one of the snake charmer's children.

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He's got three with him. They realised he's not been immunised.

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He didn't have the mark on his fingernail. So, they've just immunised him against polio

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about a foot and a half away from two cobras.

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Anywhere, any place is a good place to get an immunisation, isn't it?

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Good boy.

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The vaccine strategy here in India

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means there hasn't been a case of polio reported here for over a year.

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It's time to leave Patna and head towards our second hotspot.

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HORNS BEEP

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We're at the station to catch a train that will take us

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deep into the rural heartland of the state.

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-TRAIN HORN BLARES

-See you, Patna.

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That was the craziest town I've ever been at in my life.

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-I've never been in a town like that before.

-No, that was bonkers.

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-That was bonkers, wasn't it?

-Pretty bonkers.

-Absolutely nuts!

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The train follows the Ganges river west for about 300km

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up to the small town of Khagaria, where we'll spend the night.

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I must find a way to keep the vaccines cold

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and the ice packs frozen.

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The hotel kitchen is our only option.

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Hello.

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I'm going to look in the fridge, OK?

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Eh...

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Well, I think we'll use this one, if we use one at all.

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That's quite cold, I think.

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MAN SPEAKS IN OWN LANGUAGE

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-Off?

-We have it off.

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This one's off?

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Does the power stay on all night?

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Yeah? So, we'll put it in this one.

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'This could be the last fridge for a while

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'and there's no guarantee it even works.'

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AIR-CON UNIT CLUNKS

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I can't sleep cos there's something, um...

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something in that air-conditioning unit.

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A bird or a rat or something, and I can't...

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It's freaking me out. Listen to that.

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CLUNKING CONTINUES

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I woke up with squeaking and...

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..that noise, and now I can't sleep because it's...

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..there's something living in the air-conditioning machine.

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I don't know what it is. I don't know what it is!

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I slept like crap last night.

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It's definitely the kind of hotel where you sleep in your sleeping bag on the bed.

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You don't know about bed bugs and stuff.

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I could do a cold shower, couldn't I? A good start to the day.

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It's actually quite refreshing, I suppose.

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On this Indian morning.

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Today, we hope to reach 17 children in need of polio vaccines.

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Jesus!

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Yeah, I think they're cold enough!

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Just check.

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Yeah, that's fine. Look.

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OK, we're good to go!

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It's quite exciting, isn't it, that we've got the 17 names,

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the kids. It's nice to know that they're waiting for us today.

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It's a big adventure.

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OK, let's go!

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Our destination today is the village of Terasi - an isolated community

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located on the flood plains of the Kosi river.

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The only way to get there is by boat.

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And the quickest way to get to the boat is by bike.

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So far, there's no traffic, which is nice. I'm sure that won't last!

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Also, we need to practise where the horn is, cos that's...

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that's essential for Indian driving.

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BIKE HORN BEEPS

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This is my first time riding in India and I'm on a Honda Hero.

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This is my favourite thing to do!

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Nearly four million of these bikes are made every year,

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making it by far the country's most popular bike.

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Oh-oh! Oh!

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I can hear the ice packs bouncing around in the box.

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-It's making me worried about the old vaccines.

-BIKE ENGINE ROARS

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I'm so happy to be out of the city.

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You know, you get this impression that India is just a country

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of noise and city, and then you get out here and it's so beautiful.

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'I'm hitching a ride on one of the basic wooden ferries

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'that transport supplies up and down the river.

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'The cold chain relies on this network of bikes and boats.'

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Perfect. OK, let's go. Nice to meet you.

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THEY LAUGH

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These boats are usually manned by a crew of three -

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a captain, an engineer, and someone to bail out the water.

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These slow-speed diesel engines were first introduced in India in the 1920s.

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They're popular for their ability to run non-stop for very long periods of time.

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Going against the current makes for slow progress,

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and I can hear the engine is really labouring.

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ENGINE STUTTERS

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ENGINE CLUNKS

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Barely halfway, and we realise this journey might take longer than we thought.

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We've had a problem with our diesel tank. It's leaking or something.

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Yeah, someone is in there fixing it.

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Um, so, yeah, that might take some time.

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Cos they're sitting in the sun.

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'All we can do is wait while they try and fix the engine.

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'With no spare parts to be found here,

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'we're reliant on the skill of our mechanic, Rajeev.'

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RAJEEV SPEAKS IN OWN LANGUAGE

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-Hello.

-Hello.

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She looked totally terrified of us.

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Well, they mustn't get very many visitors down this path.

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How are you?

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All right? No, no, I'm just saying hello.

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-Hello.

-Hello.

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Oh, there he goes, look.

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ENGINE FIRES UP

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After an hour, the boat is back up and running.

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Sand. Never my favourite road surface.

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It's taken us over 12 hours to get here from Patna,

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by train, boat and bike.

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228 children live in this village.

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Their families must contend with the regular floods

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which destroy their crops and homes.

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Is this your house? Your house? The water came up to about here.

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Like, up there. So she said this was all flooded like that.

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She had to live up on the roof for four months.

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The waterlogged land is a fertile breeding ground for polio

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and makes it difficult to reach children for vaccinations.

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She's terribly glamorous. I really like her.

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Oh, I see.

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You need cleaner water place.

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It's dirty.

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Oh, yeah, right.

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She did the pooing,

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the mime for pooing...here.

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She's saying that people poo here and then there's water to be...

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It's not clean.

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What happens is the water's being pumped up from underground.

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And then when it doesn't filter away properly,

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it lies in these puddles which get putrid, and then

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all that filth seeps down back into the resources for the pump.

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So the pump is basically recycling that filthy water.

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That's what happens. Cos it doesn't drain away properly.

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Someone's got it on their hands here.

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Oh, you've got it on your arm.

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WOMAN SPEAKS HER OWN LANGUAGE

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Yeah? Like this?

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-SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE

-Maybe that's the ink.

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Or how they make the ink, you know?

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And then for this?

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SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE

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Oh, like this?

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Cos we do it like this. We go p-p-p-p-p-p-p!

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Like this.

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P-p-p-p! No.

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< P-p-p-p!

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Oh, yeah, it's sore, yeah. Aaarghhh! Yeah.

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The mothers and children are called

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to a makeshift clinic for the vaccinations.

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You know, we had 17 kids on our list

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to bring the vaccines here for - and there's 26 here,

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so since they heard that we're doing this today,

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there's more children here, which is great.

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We've had to hand over all our supplies,

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and this means we must restock the vaccines

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ahead of our next stop tomorrow.

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This little girl here's got really terrible respiration.

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You can hear it. Very bad.

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-Where we got the boat?

-Yes.

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-Where we landed or where we got in the boat?

-Where we got the boat.

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-So it's miles away.

-Yeah.

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The nurse is only able to give the vaccines -

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she can't treat the children.

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BABY CRIES

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There we are. There's the first child immunised

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from our vaccines that we brought.

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So that's really cool.

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When we arrived, I was so pleased

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to see all of those kids here to be...

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..you know, to get the vaccines

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that are going to help them to grow and survive.

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And I felt quite happy about that, you know,

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that we'd brought it and we did our part and played our part.

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That made me feel very good,

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but hearing that little girl that couldn't hardly breathe,

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just that tiny baby who could hardly breathe,

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that overtakes everything, really.

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So you s...

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So you, erm...

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Sorry. Sorry, it's difficult to be...

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It's difficult to be quite happy about the immunisations.

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But it's...it's taking things one step at a time, isn't it? >

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Yeah.

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It's just difficult to see.

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It's difficult to see.

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It's difficult for them to be in that situation.

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And there's no doctor here, you know?

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The nearest doctor's where we got on the boat, you know?

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It's miles away.

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Anyway, sorry.

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-Bye-bye!

-Bye-bye.

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-Bye-bye.

-Bye-bye.

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We return by boat to Khagaria

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to catch a train north to the border.

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The boat journey back should be much quicker

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cos we're going with the current.

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It took us four hours to get up here. It's four o'clock now.

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ENGINE SPUTTERS AND STOPS

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What's happened now is that our boat,

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the engine has stopped working.

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I could go up there and give it a look

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but I don't want to step on their toes, you know what I mean?

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Might be a bit unfortunate if I go up there and just fix it.

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ENGINE STARTS

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Yay!

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THEY CHEER

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ENGINE SPUTTERS

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THEY GROAN

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Oh, no, we spoke too soon.

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Look at the smoke, look at the black smoke.

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Hey! Ohhh!

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THEY LAUGH

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It's not getting enough fuel, is it?

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It's not getting enough fuel, that's what's happening.

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ENGINE SPEEDS UP

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Well done, boys, well done!

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By the time we get back to the road, it's already dark.

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'We head straight to the train station in the hope of catching an overnight train

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'to our third hotspot, the India-Nepal border.

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'If we don't get on this train, we're looking at a very long drive tomorrow.'

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Yeah?

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Right.

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So he says to come back after 12?

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If we come back after 12, I mean,

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it sort of means we have to wait up till 12 to find out, and then,

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if not, then we have to be in the cars at five in the morning,

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which means no-one's going to get any sleep.

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I suggest we get to bed, get a good night's sleep,

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because we have to be up at five to get on the bikes anyway, to ride up to the border.

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OK. Anyway, right now we're not going to achieve anything.

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Watch your step back, there's people everywhere.

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Let's go this way.

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CAR HORNS BEEP

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We're forced to spend another night at the hotel here in Khagaria,

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which puts us behind schedule.

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FIREWORKS EXPLODE NOISILY

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MUSIC ON SOUND SYSTEM BLARES

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I just put my head on the pillow and then,

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all hell broke out here, all hell broke loose.

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I don't know, it's a wedding or something, I think.

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-HE SHOUTS OVER THE LOUD MUSIC

-That's my bedroom just up there.

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Everyone's absolutely plastered.

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'Well, I'm not getting any sleep tonight, so I may as well join in.'

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LOUD MUSIC CONTINUES

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HE JOINS IN WITH THE CHEERING

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FIREWORKS EXPLODE NOISILY

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Thank you very much.

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Chai...

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Having failed to get on the train last night,

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we'll have to drive the vaccines to the border.

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OVERWHELMING TRAFFIC NOISE

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Unbelievable.

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The traffic's just unbelievable!

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It's good fun, though, I have to say.

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HE LAUGHS

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It's no secret that India has the highest number of traffic fatalities in the world.

0:23:080:23:13

And you really need to be prepared for anything.

0:23:130:23:16

Along the way, I must restock my vaccines and top up my ice blocks.

0:23:200:23:24

After eight hours on the road,

0:23:300:23:32

we arrive at the border town of Jogbani.

0:23:320:23:35

Whoo! That was some ride, bloody hell!

0:23:350:23:37

It's a different experience riding here, isn't it?

0:23:370:23:41

It's just chaos. It's wonderful.

0:23:410:23:43

Good fun.

0:23:430:23:45

There's one thing I haven't got for our trek in Nepal, is...

0:23:450:23:47

You know the things that keep your legs warm? We call them long johns.

0:23:470:23:51

Yeah, maybe we'll find 'em here.

0:23:520:23:55

So cool. They don't use cables here.

0:23:590:24:01

All the brakes are operated with these push rods.

0:24:010:24:03

Which is the way we used to make bicycles in the '30s and '40s.

0:24:030:24:06

But they still make them like that here, it's so brilliant.

0:24:060:24:09

It's not stretchy enough for my legs.

0:24:090:24:11

No, no, it's too small. It's too small, isn't it?

0:24:140:24:18

That's got more stretch in it.

0:24:180:24:20

That might just about do it.

0:24:200:24:21

Big size. The biggest, yeah?

0:24:210:24:23

Indian-Nepalese border is, I don't know, a mile and a half, or a mile up there.

0:24:250:24:29

And I've crossed a lot of borders. And they all feel a bit like this.

0:24:290:24:32

There's generally markets near them.

0:24:320:24:35

There's loads of goods going back and forward.

0:24:350:24:38

It's busy. They're interesting places.

0:24:380:24:41

Two million people pass between India and Nepal every day,

0:24:440:24:48

up to 10,000 here in Jogbani alone,

0:24:480:24:51

making the risk of a virus entering India very high.

0:24:510:24:54

I'm Ewan, nice to meet you.

0:24:540:24:57

'Health workers station themselves here with an almost constant supply of vaccines.'

0:24:570:25:01

Check these...

0:25:010:25:03

They pretty much pounce straight in there, don't they?

0:25:030:25:06

They just go straight in. No messing about.

0:25:060:25:08

Within seconds, they're given the drops.

0:25:080:25:10

'Working in shifts, health workers can immunise up 800 children every day.'

0:25:100:25:15

These are the drops we brought from Patna. It's brilliant, isn't it?

0:25:180:25:22

'We leave India behind and cross the border into Nepal

0:25:220:25:27

'to begin the final leg of our cold chain journey.'

0:25:270:25:29

The first stop is Kathmandu.

0:25:310:25:34

With a population of close to one million,

0:25:370:25:39

Kathmandu is the largest, and pretty much only, city in Nepal.

0:25:390:25:42

Today, tourism is its biggest industry,

0:25:440:25:47

though my final destination is not on any tourist trail.

0:25:470:25:50

The vaccines travel west, to Nepalganj.

0:25:540:25:57

And then it's a hair-raising flight up to the Talcha airstrip.

0:25:570:26:00

From there, we trek with them to Gamgadhi.

0:26:000:26:03

And then finally on to the tiny village of Luma

0:26:030:26:05

where I will come face to face with the last child to be immunised on this chain.

0:26:050:26:09

Just round here is the national cold room,

0:26:110:26:13

where all the vaccines are kept for the whole of Nepal.

0:26:130:26:16

So, this is the start of our Nepal cold chain.

0:26:160:26:21

-Hello?

-Hello?

-Hello?

0:26:210:26:24

-I'm Ewan, hello.

-Hello.

-How are you?

-I'm fine.

0:26:240:26:28

-Nice to see you. Namaste.

-Namaste. Welcome to Nepal.

0:26:280:26:31

Thank you very much. It's a great pleasure to be here.

0:26:310:26:34

After you.

0:26:350:26:37

Part of this big load here of vaccines is going to Nepalganj.

0:26:390:26:43

So, what we thought we'd do is, we'll mark one vaccine,

0:26:430:26:47

and follow that all the way through

0:26:470:26:49

to see who gets that vaccine at the very end of our cold chain.

0:26:490:26:53

So, let's pick one.

0:26:530:26:56

These are measles vaccines.

0:26:560:26:58

Pick one of these.

0:27:000:27:01

I've got a pen.

0:27:020:27:04

And we'll mark it with a little hash, like that.

0:27:040:27:09

And I'll put that back.

0:27:090:27:11

And then we'll see,

0:27:110:27:12

just to kind of personalise it, see who that child is that gets that vaccine.

0:27:120:27:18

It does bring to mind

0:27:190:27:20

one of the important factors in the cold chain, is that they have to be cold!

0:27:200:27:25

Come on, gentlemen!

0:27:280:27:30

'The vaccines travel west, in a special refrigerated truck.

0:27:300:27:35

'So we must fly to meet them at the other end.'

0:27:350:27:38

Luckily, last night, we all spent a great deal of effort downsizing,

0:27:420:27:45

taking only the bare essentials.

0:27:450:27:47

41, sir.

0:27:540:27:56

-Have a nice flight.

-Thank you. You too.

0:27:560:27:59

Oh wow! Look, look, look!

0:28:030:28:05

'My first view of the Himalayas,

0:28:050:28:07

'the range of mountains that covers almost three-quarters of Nepal.'

0:28:070:28:11

Oh, they're so fantastic, aren't they? Beautiful.

0:28:110:28:14

Oh, fucking hell! OK.

0:28:190:28:21

NERVOUS LAUGHTER IN THE BACKGROUND

0:28:210:28:23

'We arrive in Nepalganj, well ahead of the truck carrying our vaccines.

0:28:270:28:31

'In a largely Hindu country,

0:28:310:28:33

'this town is home to Nepal's biggest Muslim population.

0:28:330:28:36

'And my arrival coincides with a major Muslim festival.'

0:28:360:28:41

What's the nature of this festival? What's the story?

0:28:410:28:45

'These boys tell me this festival is to mourn Mohammed's grandson, who was killed in battle.

0:28:450:28:50

'The colourful towers represent miniature mausoleums.'

0:28:500:28:54

CROWD CHANTS

0:28:570:28:59

As a display of their devotion,

0:28:590:29:01

participants will beat their chests, and even cut themselves.

0:29:010:29:05

This festival marks the beginning of the Muslim year.

0:29:050:29:07

It lasts for ten days, and this procession today is its climax.

0:29:070:29:11

Nepalganj's location close to the Indian border makes it a melting pot of cultures.

0:29:150:29:21

I meet an American woman named Candy, who's lived here for many years.

0:29:210:29:25

I think I'm the only hotel in Nepal

0:29:250:29:27

-that specialises in American comfort food.

-Right.

0:29:270:29:30

We do the Southern fried chicken

0:29:300:29:33

and the burgers, and the mac and cheese.

0:29:330:29:36

When you say "we" came to here, who's the other person you're talking about?

0:29:360:29:38

I have a husband attached.

0:29:380:29:40

He's not here, he's a kilometre down the road in that direction.

0:29:400:29:43

But yeah, he exists.

0:29:430:29:45

We have a lodge as well down there, so we're both upscale and downscale.

0:29:450:29:49

-Oh, I see. And is he a Nepalese man or an American man?

-Yes.

0:29:490:29:52

I did hear that you're one of two wives.

0:29:520:29:57

-Yes, I'm senior.

-Senior wife?

-Yes.

0:29:570:29:59

Tell me about that. That's quite intriguing.

0:29:590:30:03

Um...

0:30:030:30:05

I couldn't have children,

0:30:050:30:07

so I gave my husband a second wife for a fourth-wedding anniversary present.

0:30:070:30:12

Where did you find... How did you organise that?

0:30:120:30:14

I met her, and absolutely fell in love with her.

0:30:140:30:16

And she actually lived with us for four and a half years, and died.

0:30:160:30:20

And this is actually number three.

0:30:200:30:22

Oh, my goodness, I'm sorry to hear it.

0:30:220:30:24

We have two sons by this wife.

0:30:240:30:28

-Her name is Alma.

-Alma?

0:30:280:30:30

How does that work? Does your husband split his time between the lodge and here?

0:30:300:30:34

Or you're wife senior so he's always with you?

0:30:340:30:36

-No, we're already old. No, he stays down there.

-He does?

-Yeah.

0:30:360:30:40

That's interesting. That's an interesting life story there.

0:30:400:30:43

I'd love to talk to you forever here, but you need to eat.

0:30:430:30:47

-HE LAUGHS

-You're very kind. Thank you, Candy.

0:30:470:30:49

That's very good.

0:30:540:30:56

Very welcome, that is, thank you.

0:30:560:30:58

Ah, the Brits abroad. "I'll have a burger, please, with chips. Thanks."

0:31:010:31:06

We're here in Nepalganj.

0:31:110:31:13

We've chartered a small plane which is going to take us up to Talcha airstrip.

0:31:130:31:17

The pilot wants to take off, like now,

0:31:170:31:20

but we don't have the vaccines here.

0:31:200:31:22

There's no point us going there without the vaccines.

0:31:220:31:24

And so we're trying to get the vaccines here to the airport as quickly as we can.

0:31:240:31:28

'The roads are bad here in Nepal.

0:31:300:31:32

'The truck could still be miles away or stuck somewhere en route.'

0:31:320:31:35

So, if we don't make the run today,

0:31:360:31:39

it means that the kids up there will be unprotected for the next two, three months.

0:31:390:31:43

'The pilot must take off.'

0:31:480:31:50

So they want us to fly, because the plane's here.

0:31:500:31:53

-Have they loaded it all up and everything?

-That's right.

0:31:530:31:56

They're here?

0:31:560:31:58

Great.

0:32:000:32:01

There it is, look.

0:32:030:32:06

OK. Let's get on the plane. Just in the nick of time.

0:32:060:32:09

HE GRUNTS

0:32:110:32:13

We're up and off, eh?

0:32:190:32:21

These communities here just cling to the side of hilltops.

0:32:450:32:50

I don't know how they get... There's no roads to them, you see little tracks.

0:32:500:32:53

Unbelievably remote. You wonder how people live there, how they survive there.

0:32:530:32:58

'There's only one place to land for our next delivery.

0:32:590:33:02

'And they say it's one of the world's most dangerous airstrips.'

0:33:020:33:05

Look at the runway.

0:33:060:33:08

Bloody hell. It really is just carved into the hill.

0:33:080:33:12

'Perched precariously, 3,000 metres high up.

0:33:120:33:17

'Only a handful of pilots in the country are qualified to land there.'

0:33:170:33:22

Less than 400 metres long,

0:33:220:33:24

the airstrip comes to an abrupt end before a sheer drop-off.

0:33:240:33:27

The surface, if you can call it that, is a mixture of rubble and stone.

0:33:290:33:34

Only a few days earlier, a plane full of passengers blew out a tyre as it landed and crashed.

0:33:340:33:41

CLAPPING

0:34:240:34:25

Bravo. Whoo! Whoo-hoo!

0:34:250:34:29

-That was some landing, wasn't it?

-Unbelievable!

0:34:300:34:33

Look where we are!

0:34:350:34:36

The aim is to reach Gamgadhi before nightfall.

0:34:430:34:46

There's a health post there where we can chill the vaccines, store our kit

0:34:460:34:49

and, hopefully, find a bed for the night.

0:34:490:34:51

With no roads, absolutely everything here is transported by mule, or on foot.

0:34:510:34:56

So, from here we walk.

0:34:580:35:00

Many locals earn their living as porters,

0:35:000:35:02

carrying supplies up to remote villages in the mountains.

0:35:020:35:06

When you see the weight they put on their backs, it's unbelievably impressive, isn't it?

0:35:060:35:10

'The more they carry, the more they get paid, so there's fierce competition.'

0:35:100:35:15

THEY CHATTER

0:35:160:35:19

They're all squabbling cos they want to get a load to carry down.

0:35:190:35:22

I suppose if you don't get one, you don't get paid.

0:35:220:35:26

Oh, my God.

0:35:280:35:29

That girl's got four packs, 15 kilograms each.

0:35:290:35:31

That's 60 kilograms she's carrying.

0:35:310:35:35

That's really heavy.

0:35:350:35:36

They're so cool. I think they're so cool.

0:35:390:35:41

There's quite a lot of tartan down there, which appeals to me.

0:35:410:35:44

Tartan and nose rings.

0:35:440:35:45

It's a really winning combination.

0:35:450:35:48

'Also accompanying us is health worker Tiger.'

0:35:480:35:51

And how much do they get paid for each load they carry?

0:35:510:35:54

-12 rupees.

-12 rupees? That's not very much, is it? Goodness me.

0:35:540:35:58

This is Kharna.

0:35:580:36:01

He works for the local hospital,

0:36:040:36:06

and will be carrying the vaccines.

0:36:060:36:08

It's a journey that he makes regularly.

0:36:080:36:11

Yeah. This is Gamgadhi, we will go there.

0:36:110:36:13

-That's where we're heading now?

-Yeah.

0:36:130:36:15

-And it will take us three hours, do you think?

-Four hours.

0:36:150:36:19

-We'll have to go round there.

-Yes.

0:36:190:36:21

'We set out, following a mule train.'

0:36:250:36:29

SHE SHOUTS OUT

0:36:430:36:45

Look at this girl.

0:36:480:36:50

She's shouting down to her mate.

0:36:500:36:52

But the town, look how far away the town is.

0:36:520:36:55

They can hear, cos the sound just travels for miles.

0:36:550:36:59

SHE SHOUTS OUT

0:36:590:37:03

CHILDREN REPLY IN THE DISTANCE

0:37:030:37:06

-She's shouting down?

-The stone is coming.

0:37:060:37:08

She's warning them that a stone is rolling down the hill.

0:37:080:37:10

SHE SHOUTS OUT

0:37:100:37:13

-Is she playing, or is a stone really...?

-Yes, she's playing.

-Oh, she's playing.

0:37:130:37:17

SHE SHOUTS OUT

0:37:170:37:20

Towering in the distance is the Sisne Himal range of mountains,

0:37:340:37:39

some of which are close to 6,000 metres high.

0:37:390:37:41

And, just the other side of them, is Tibet.

0:37:410:37:44

WOMEN SINGING

0:37:510:37:54

Fancy a blast on her pipe as well! Sorry. Probably not!

0:38:070:38:12

I'd like to say something, but I don't know what to say.

0:38:190:38:21

That's like the biggest load of...

0:38:210:38:23

We are going to Gamgadhi.

0:38:500:38:53

HE REPEATS IN HIS NATIVE LANGUAGE

0:38:530:38:57

EWAN ATTEMPTS TO COPY

0:38:570:39:00

THEY BOTH LAUGH

0:39:000:39:03

-OK.

-OK.

0:39:030:39:06

Finally, we arrive in Gamgadhi where we will spend the night.

0:39:140:39:18

The market here supplies the surrounding area with imported goods.

0:39:220:39:25

90% of adults in Nepal are farmers

0:39:270:39:30

and, like most communities, Gamgadhi is surrounded by ancient hand-cut terraced fields.

0:39:300:39:36

OK, so we've got to Gamgadhi and we've put our stuff in our little hotel there.

0:39:440:39:48

We're going to take the vaccines a couple of streets down the hill to where they're stored overnight,

0:39:480:39:54

because we can't let them get hot overnight.

0:39:540:39:57

The only trouble is that, a couple of streets away is about two miles down the hill!

0:39:570:40:01

And it's now dark. But we're going down there anyway, we haven't got any option.

0:40:010:40:05

We're going to put these in, get them safe for the night.

0:40:050:40:07

Tomorrow, we'll pick them up and make the long walk over that hill there.

0:40:070:40:11

OK, let's go.

0:40:110:40:13

Let's find that fridge. Look at that!

0:40:160:40:19

-And that powers all the refrigerators?

-Yes.

0:40:190:40:23

That's brilliant.

0:40:230:40:26

There we go.

0:40:320:40:35

They're all good.

0:40:350:40:37

You can see the white boxes are all still white.

0:40:370:40:40

There it is, look.

0:40:400:40:42

A lot of these vaccines are going to stay here

0:40:430:40:46

to replenish the stocks here.

0:40:460:40:48

Firstly, because the landing strip is going to be shut for almost two months.

0:40:480:40:52

So, they may be able to get more up here, but that's going to keep them going in the meantime.

0:40:520:40:58

Yeah, that was quite an important delivery, I think.

0:40:580:41:00

Thank you. My buddy.

0:41:000:41:03

Can you tell him thank you so much?

0:41:070:41:09

Because that was a long time with that big heavy box on your back.

0:41:090:41:15

Thank you very, very much.

0:41:150:41:17

And that's the reality of this, that's the reality.

0:41:180:41:21

The only way to get to this town is by doing that very, very long walk

0:41:210:41:24

with that very, very heavy weight on your back.

0:41:240:41:27

That was our first night sleeping in the mountains.

0:41:430:41:46

And today, we head up to Luma.

0:41:460:41:48

And how was your first night sleeping in the mountains?

0:41:490:41:51

It was good.

0:41:510:41:53

It's good.

0:41:530:41:55

GUITAR RIFF

0:41:550:41:56

# I woke up this morning

0:41:560:41:59

# I was sleeping in a sack

0:41:590:42:03

# I had to walk to Luma

0:42:030:42:05

# And then I had to walk back. #

0:42:050:42:08

THEY LAUGH

0:42:080:42:10

I had my assistant bring it ahead,

0:42:150:42:17

because I won't sleep on anything but a bed of pink roses!

0:42:170:42:20

Didn't you know that about me?

0:42:200:42:22

'We're making the final ascent to the village of Luma,

0:42:220:42:26

'a trek that will take about a day.'

0:42:260:42:28

Beautiful light in the morning.

0:42:280:42:30

We're going over there. Over this hill.

0:42:300:42:33

So we just go down here.

0:42:330:42:35

Then, there.

0:42:370:42:39

Up here.

0:42:390:42:41

Over there.

0:42:430:42:45

And then it's up on the other side of that hill up there.

0:42:450:42:47

Namaste.

0:43:070:43:08

Namaste.

0:43:080:43:10

Burning plastic there.

0:43:110:43:14

The streets are just thick with the smell of burning plastic.

0:43:140:43:19

People just make little bonfires in the street

0:43:190:43:21

with their rubbish, I guess, from yesterday.

0:43:210:43:24

'We return to the hospital to collect the vaccines.'

0:43:280:43:30

Morning.

0:43:300:43:32

-How are you?

-How are you?

-Good. You?

0:43:320:43:35

'Kharna has lived in this area all his life.

0:43:350:43:38

'He does vaccine runs every month.'

0:43:380:43:41

Do we have colder ones?

0:43:480:43:50

So, we've got everything.

0:43:550:43:57

But we took the ice packs out of the freezer, and they were liquid.

0:43:570:44:02

You know how in India we kept banging them together,

0:44:020:44:04

and they've got to feel like bricks?

0:44:040:44:07

Well, they're not. They're still liquid.

0:44:070:44:10

I mean, they're cold, but they're not really cold.

0:44:100:44:12

It's quite a long way, isn't it? Seven, eight-hour, seven-hour walk?

0:44:130:44:17

The quicker we go, the better.

0:44:170:44:19

'I'm told the last leg of a cold chain is the most difficult.

0:44:330:44:36

'The more remote you get, the fewer resources are available

0:44:360:44:40

'to help keep the vaccines cold and the tougher the terrain.'

0:44:400:44:43

-It's an amazing bridge, is it quite new?

-Five years.

0:44:450:44:50

'Nepal is still struggling to get back on its feet after

0:44:520:44:55

'the end of a decade-long civil war.

0:44:550:44:58

'This region was the site of intense fighting

0:44:580:45:01

'and what little infrastructure existed was destroyed.'

0:45:010:45:04

Once we've crossed this bridge, it's up, up, up, up, up.

0:45:040:45:08

Here we go.

0:45:080:45:09

'Since the end of the war, this bridge has been repaired and improved.

0:45:140:45:17

'It's a vital link to the outside world

0:45:170:45:19

'and the gateway to the last leg of our journey.

0:45:190:45:22

It doesn't look too far but I believe it's, you know,

0:45:310:45:34

false horizon, false horizon, false horizon.

0:45:340:45:37

Then we go down the next valley and up the next.

0:45:370:45:39

It's good. It's so beautiful. So beautiful. It's quite hardcore.

0:45:390:45:44

'As we climb higher, I'm really starting to feel

0:46:060:46:09

'the effects of the altitude.

0:46:090:46:11

'Every step is a struggle.

0:46:110:46:13

'We've been walking for nearly four hours now

0:46:300:46:33

'and I know we've still got a really long way to go before we reach Luma.'

0:46:330:46:37

I think we've reached the saddle now,

0:47:010:47:03

so we've climbed up about... I don't know how high it is.

0:47:030:47:07

A lot. And then we go back down this one

0:47:070:47:09

and back up the other side.

0:47:090:47:13

So we're a third of the way there.

0:47:130:47:14

Is that correct? We're about a third of the way there.

0:47:140:47:17

'For people living in the mountains, the average travel time

0:47:220:47:25

'to reach a motor road is 22 hours.'

0:47:250:47:28

Oh, there's a mill there!

0:47:520:47:55

Namaste. Hello.

0:48:080:48:10

Oh, my God, look at that!

0:48:120:48:14

'With no electricity and limited materials,

0:48:150:48:18

'people up here are still relying on ancient technology.

0:48:180:48:22

'Today, there are about 25,000 of these traditional water mills

0:48:220:48:26

'being used throughout rural Nepal.'

0:48:260:48:28

They've hollowed out this log and the water comes shooting down from upstream,

0:48:280:48:33

turning round the water wheel which, in turn, turns round that stone.

0:48:330:48:36

'This mill grinds the wheat and maize into flour for the village of Luma.'

0:48:360:48:42

So we've got one last push on up this hill to get to Luma.

0:48:440:48:49

We're almost there.

0:48:490:48:50

'Luma was settled around 600 years ago...

0:49:290:49:33

'..literally carved into the mountainside.

0:49:400:49:42

'Most of the children born here will stay here all of their lives.'

0:49:420:49:46

We did it! Yay. We made it! Luma!

0:49:480:49:54

-Luma.

-Luma, woo-hoo!

0:49:540:49:59

'This tiny village is a full day's walk from anywhere,

0:50:020:50:06

'and I guess they don't get too many visitors here.

0:50:060:50:09

'They're just as curious to meet us as we are them.'

0:50:090:50:13

I've never seen anything like it, it's unbelievable!

0:50:170:50:21

Here we are.

0:50:300:50:31

And what about these, where do we take these?

0:50:330:50:35

What do we do with these? Keep them in here?

0:50:390:50:41

That was quite a walk.

0:50:410:50:44

It's unbelievable, this town, isn't it?

0:50:450:50:48

I've never seen anything like it before. It's so amazing.

0:50:480:50:53

It took us two days to walk here.

0:51:150:51:17

There's no roads or anything here, that's the only way to get here.

0:51:170:51:21

I don't think I've ever been anywhere so remote in my life.

0:51:210:51:24

And if something were to happen here, you know, the only...

0:51:240:51:30

the only way out is that two-day walk back, and even then,

0:51:300:51:34

you've got to fly somewhere. None of these people could afford to fly anywhere.

0:51:340:51:37

'Around 100 families live here in traditional stone and mud houses.

0:51:370:51:42

'The construction methods and building materials have not changed since medieval times.'

0:51:420:51:47

Look at the filth that the guys are in.

0:51:490:51:52

They were having a little tea break

0:51:540:51:56

and when I was coming up they put down their stuff,

0:51:560:52:00

they weren't literally drinking tea, but they were having a wee rest.

0:52:000:52:02

When they saw me, they all ran to the front and dropped a beam off the end.

0:52:020:52:06

A huge cloud of dirt and smoke enveloped me

0:52:060:52:09

and they all had a laugh.

0:52:090:52:11

Namaste.

0:52:140:52:15

Look at these stones, they've been used for hundreds of years, haven't they?

0:52:170:52:22

-What have they got in the different holes?

-That's mustard.

0:52:220:52:27

-This is rice.

-And why do they mash it up like that?

0:52:270:52:30

-De-husking.

-Oh, they're just de-husking it.

0:52:310:52:34

Oh, I see, of course.

0:52:340:52:36

Of course. I didn't know that, pretending like I knew that. I didn't know that.

0:52:360:52:40

Hello?

0:52:400:52:42

We may not be able to find a way down here, I don't know.

0:52:440:52:47

I'm not really that well versed in the way around this town yet, you know?

0:52:470:52:52

-Namaste!

-Namaste!

-Do you like our 13-man tent?

0:52:520:52:58

Maybe there's another one round the corner. But maybe not, eh?

0:53:000:53:03

I think we might have to form a small pyramid inside of people.

0:53:030:53:08

Four of us along the bottom, three in the middle, and two at the top.

0:53:080:53:11

'As the day comes to an end, the village is still bustling with activity.

0:53:110:53:15

'But as soon as the sun goes down, so does the temperature.'

0:53:150:53:18

'With quite an audience assembled, the vaccinations get under way.

0:53:360:53:40

'Finally it's time to meet the child who's going to get

0:54:000:54:03

'the measles vaccine I marked all the way back in Kathmandu.'

0:54:030:54:06

Hello. Namaste.

0:54:100:54:12

Hello, nice to meet you. Hello.

0:54:140:54:17

-Namaste. What's her name?

-Nirmola.

0:54:200:54:24

Nirmola? Here, let me sit down here.

0:54:240:54:28

'Nirmola lives here with her parents and two older sisters.'

0:54:280:54:31

And how did you meet?

0:54:310:54:33

THEY SPEAK FOREIGN LANGUAGE

0:54:330:54:38

So he's saying he came to this village with his goats to look

0:54:400:54:45

for more goats to buy. And he came to this house to see if they had goats,

0:54:450:54:49

but he met his wife instead.

0:54:490:54:50

And now they have three kids - six, four and eleven months.

0:54:530:54:57

And the eleven-month-old is the child who's going to be getting

0:54:570:55:01

our measles vaccine that we've carried all the way from Kathmandu.

0:55:010:55:04

'Nirmola's sisters have both been immunised.

0:55:040:55:07

'But Nirmola missed the vaccinator the past couple of times he visited,

0:55:070:55:10

'as she was strapped to her mother when she was working in the fields.

0:55:100:55:14

'I take the family off to meet the vaccinator.'

0:55:140:55:17

Here's the immuniser.

0:55:170:55:19

Oh, they're still all right, yeah.

0:55:230:55:25

There it is. There's the one we marked in Kathmandu, and it's for Nirmola. There we are.

0:55:250:55:31

NIRMOLA CRIES

0:55:360:55:38

Oh-h-h!

0:55:380:55:42

There we are. That's the job done there, look.

0:55:450:55:48

We marked one phial to make it individual somehow, you know,

0:55:480:55:53

for us to think about this one child.

0:55:530:55:56

It was an idea, almost, but now it's become a real reality.

0:55:560:56:00

That phial is symbolic of the whole cold chain, really, for me.

0:56:000:56:05

How heavy was she? Eight? Eight kilograms.

0:56:050:56:12

These children shouldn't be left out

0:56:120:56:15

just because they live in the middle of nowhere.

0:56:150:56:19

They deserve a future too.

0:56:190:56:20

And I think it's absolutely worth the effort

0:56:200:56:25

and there are luckily people who will make the effort to get

0:56:250:56:29

to these kids, and that makes me feel really good.

0:56:290:56:33

Yes, I will.

0:56:400:56:42

Thank you for being such a loyal companion,

0:56:420:56:46

and good English, too, at the end there! Cheers.

0:56:460:56:49

I hope so.

0:56:510:56:53

I don't know how easy that will be up here.

0:56:530:56:56

I hope so.

0:56:560:56:58

Bye-bye. Take care. Thank you.

0:57:000:57:02

I really like them, what a lovely family!

0:57:050:57:07

She's very fun, smiley and funny.

0:57:070:57:10

It's very clear now what the cold chain means, you know.

0:57:120:57:16

It is a very organised but difficult-to-maintain chain.

0:57:160:57:23

It's like one chink in that chain

0:57:240:57:29

breaks it, and it's fragile and it's absolutely essential

0:57:290:57:34

and life-saving for these people.

0:57:340:57:36

'Next week, I follow a cold chain through the Republic of Congo...'

0:57:360:57:40

Bonjour, je m'appelle Ewan.

0:57:420:57:44

What we'd like to do is take vaccines to children living out in the jungle.

0:57:440:57:48

'..where I see just what it means to be remote.'

0:57:480:57:52

Is that an owl?

0:57:520:57:53

'Both physically...'

0:57:530:57:55

OK. Swimming.

0:57:550:57:57

'And socially...'

0:57:570:57:59

Once we leave this town, we'll be as far away from civilisation as you can imagine being, really.

0:57:590:58:04

'In a country where, for some, slavery is still a reality.'

0:58:040:58:10

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