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The Tropic of Cancer marks the northern border of the tropics, | 0:00:03 | 0:00:07 | |
the most beautiful, brilliant and blighted region of the world. | 0:00:07 | 0:00:12 | |
I've already travelled around the equator | 0:00:12 | 0:00:15 | |
and the southern border of the tropics, | 0:00:15 | 0:00:17 | |
but following the Tropic of Cancer will be my toughest journey yet. | 0:00:17 | 0:00:21 | |
This tropic cuts through Central America, the Caribbean, | 0:00:21 | 0:00:25 | |
North Africa, India, and on through Asia to finish in Hawaii. | 0:00:25 | 0:00:31 | |
It's 23,000 miles across deserts, rivers and mountains. | 0:00:31 | 0:00:36 | |
Along the way I encounter extraordinary people, | 0:00:36 | 0:00:40 | |
simmering conflicts and some of the most stunning landscapes on our planet. | 0:00:40 | 0:00:44 | |
On this part of my journey, | 0:00:46 | 0:00:48 | |
I travel from Egypt, across Saudi Arabia, to Oman. | 0:00:48 | 0:00:52 | |
I see an Ancient Egyptian treasure saved from the waters of the Nile. | 0:00:53 | 0:00:57 | |
I explore the underwater wonders of the Red Sea... | 0:00:59 | 0:01:02 | |
..and cross the mysterious Arabian peninsula. | 0:01:06 | 0:01:09 | |
Bloody hell! | 0:01:09 | 0:01:11 | |
In Egypt I meet some very hungry Bedouin boys. | 0:01:11 | 0:01:14 | |
I'm amazed they didn't get the bit that's in my mouth! | 0:01:14 | 0:01:16 | |
Inside secretive Saudi Arabia | 0:01:18 | 0:01:20 | |
I get a taste of their Top Gear lifestyle. | 0:01:20 | 0:01:24 | |
SCREECHING TYRES AND SHOUTING | 0:01:24 | 0:01:27 | |
And as booming Dubai hits the rocks, | 0:01:27 | 0:01:29 | |
I meet its forgotten army of migrant workers. | 0:01:29 | 0:01:32 | |
These are the people who build Dubai | 0:01:32 | 0:01:34 | |
and this is how they're treated. | 0:01:34 | 0:01:36 | |
Oh, wow. | 0:01:43 | 0:01:45 | |
The view certainly makes the climb worthwhile. | 0:01:45 | 0:01:49 | |
I'm in southern Egypt. | 0:01:49 | 0:01:51 | |
These are the waters of the River Nile | 0:01:51 | 0:01:54 | |
and I'm just beginning another leg of my journey around the Tropic of Cancer. | 0:01:54 | 0:01:57 | |
This is Lake Nasser, | 0:02:01 | 0:02:03 | |
a vast reservoir formed by the damming of the mighty Nile. | 0:02:03 | 0:02:07 | |
In Egypt's arid southern desert, the water is a welcome sight. | 0:02:07 | 0:02:12 | |
Not far from Egypt's border with Sudan, | 0:02:18 | 0:02:20 | |
the Tropic of Cancer passes through Lake Nasser. | 0:02:20 | 0:02:23 | |
At more than 300 miles long, | 0:02:23 | 0:02:25 | |
it's one of the largest man-made lakes in the world. | 0:02:25 | 0:02:28 | |
I'm far to the south of the famous great pyramids in the Valley of the Kings, | 0:02:35 | 0:02:40 | |
but even down here there's spectacular evidence | 0:02:40 | 0:02:42 | |
of Egypt's ancient past. | 0:02:42 | 0:02:44 | |
Local guide Fikry Kashef took me around the temple of Abu Simbel. | 0:02:44 | 0:02:49 | |
Wow. | 0:02:49 | 0:02:51 | |
That is absolutely gobsmacking. | 0:02:53 | 0:02:56 | |
-Ramses II. -Ramses II? | 0:02:56 | 0:02:59 | |
-3,300 years ago. -That's extraordinary. | 0:02:59 | 0:03:04 | |
This is the history of this temple here. | 0:03:04 | 0:03:06 | |
Ramses II was one of Ancient Egypt's mightiest rulers. | 0:03:06 | 0:03:10 | |
And he wasn't exactly shy about flaunting his power. | 0:03:10 | 0:03:13 | |
Each of these seven-storey high statues, | 0:03:13 | 0:03:17 | |
carved out of the mountainside, | 0:03:17 | 0:03:18 | |
depicts the same subject - Ramses himself. | 0:03:18 | 0:03:21 | |
And back at home, Ramses also had an epic private life. | 0:03:21 | 0:03:25 | |
You know, the historians, they talk about more than 40 women | 0:03:25 | 0:03:29 | |
for Ramses II, you know. | 0:03:29 | 0:03:31 | |
40 women? What, you mean 40 wives? | 0:03:31 | 0:03:34 | |
40 wives. He had more than 100 children, yes. | 0:03:34 | 0:03:37 | |
-100 children? -More, more than 100. | 0:03:37 | 0:03:39 | |
More than 40 wives, but the favourite one, she was Nefertari, | 0:03:39 | 0:03:45 | |
which is behind, two times here, just here... | 0:03:45 | 0:03:48 | |
-Oh, just at his feet? -Before the entrance, | 0:03:48 | 0:03:51 | |
for whom he did the second temple behind. | 0:03:51 | 0:03:54 | |
-So he built a temple to his wife? -To his wife, yeah. | 0:03:54 | 0:03:56 | |
-Shall we go and have a look? -Please. | 0:03:56 | 0:03:58 | |
Ramses must have taken a particular shine to Nefertari. | 0:04:00 | 0:04:02 | |
It was practically unheard of for pharaohs' wives | 0:04:02 | 0:04:05 | |
to be honoured with their own temple. | 0:04:05 | 0:04:08 | |
But these sculptures make many locals think this Egyptian queen | 0:04:08 | 0:04:12 | |
might not have been entirely Egyptian. | 0:04:12 | 0:04:14 | |
It is a little bit, you know, | 0:04:14 | 0:04:19 | |
like an African face, or something like this. | 0:04:19 | 0:04:21 | |
Some historians say | 0:04:21 | 0:04:23 | |
that she was originally from this area, from Nubia. | 0:04:23 | 0:04:28 | |
The Nubians are the people | 0:04:28 | 0:04:30 | |
who lived in southern Egypt and northern Sudan? | 0:04:30 | 0:04:33 | |
-That's Sudan now, yeah, and... -And this is you? You're a Nubian? | 0:04:33 | 0:04:37 | |
We are Nubians here, you know. | 0:04:37 | 0:04:38 | |
So you can claim her, really, then, as one of your own, | 0:04:38 | 0:04:42 | |
you can claim her as a Nubian? | 0:04:42 | 0:04:44 | |
This is not sure, but, yeah, | 0:04:44 | 0:04:45 | |
some details can show us maybe she was Nubian, but it is not sure. | 0:04:45 | 0:04:50 | |
Nubians, who are black Africans, | 0:04:50 | 0:04:54 | |
built one of the earliest African civilisations along the Nile, | 0:04:54 | 0:04:57 | |
at times rivalling the power of the pharaohs. | 0:04:57 | 0:05:01 | |
But more recently, the Nubians have been dominated | 0:05:01 | 0:05:04 | |
by Arab Egyptians from the north. | 0:05:04 | 0:05:07 | |
When the Nile was dammed in the 1960s, | 0:05:07 | 0:05:09 | |
the temple at Abu Simbel was cut into huge pieces and moved here, | 0:05:09 | 0:05:13 | |
to higher ground, to prevent it being submerged underwater. | 0:05:13 | 0:05:17 | |
But the Nubians say less attention was paid to their villages | 0:05:17 | 0:05:21 | |
clustered along the banks of the Nile. | 0:05:21 | 0:05:24 | |
They talked about | 0:05:24 | 0:05:26 | |
temples and monuments, but nobody talks about people... | 0:05:26 | 0:05:30 | |
-Right. -Around, you know. | 0:05:30 | 0:05:32 | |
So the people who were living by the banks of the Nile? | 0:05:32 | 0:05:34 | |
That's it, yeah. | 0:05:34 | 0:05:35 | |
Fikry's village was one of hundreds that disappeared underwater. | 0:05:36 | 0:05:41 | |
It's quite amazing to think, then, that your village, | 0:05:41 | 0:05:45 | |
where you grew up, | 0:05:45 | 0:05:46 | |
is now underwater, is now submerged by the waters of the lake. | 0:05:46 | 0:05:51 | |
60 metres the waters became higher than my village where I was born. | 0:05:51 | 0:05:54 | |
When I look at this lake, you know, I have all of this like a cinema, | 0:05:54 | 0:06:00 | |
behind my eyes, you know, to remembering my life | 0:06:00 | 0:06:04 | |
and the life of my people | 0:06:04 | 0:06:06 | |
here in our village, yeah, which is underwater now, yes. | 0:06:06 | 0:06:10 | |
To make way for the lake, tens of thousands of Nubians | 0:06:11 | 0:06:15 | |
were moved hundreds of miles from here and rehoused in the desert. | 0:06:15 | 0:06:19 | |
The people who live in Abu Simbel now are mostly Arab Egyptians | 0:06:19 | 0:06:24 | |
who've moved down from the north. | 0:06:24 | 0:06:26 | |
This mass relocation of the Nubians is rarely discussed in Egypt, | 0:06:26 | 0:06:29 | |
where the government limits freedom of speech. | 0:06:29 | 0:06:33 | |
I'd heard that many Nubians feel they've been shunted out | 0:06:33 | 0:06:36 | |
into the desert and abandoned. | 0:06:36 | 0:06:38 | |
But Egyptian officials, who are monitoring our filming, | 0:06:38 | 0:06:41 | |
refused us permits even to visit the new Nubian settlements. | 0:06:41 | 0:06:45 | |
Fikry is one of the few Nubians left in Abu Simbel. | 0:06:49 | 0:06:52 | |
He tries to keep Nubian culture alive | 0:06:52 | 0:06:54 | |
by teaching traditional songs and music to the children. | 0:06:54 | 0:06:58 | |
FIKRY SINGS | 0:06:58 | 0:07:01 | |
CHILDREN JOIN IN | 0:07:06 | 0:07:09 | |
Come on, clap yourselves, it was wonderful! | 0:07:32 | 0:07:36 | |
It must be very hard for them to imagine a world | 0:07:36 | 0:07:39 | |
-which is submerged in water, mustn't it? -Yes. | 0:07:39 | 0:07:42 | |
So music is one way of helping them to understand that? | 0:07:42 | 0:07:45 | |
Yes. The new generation, they don't know, | 0:07:45 | 0:07:48 | |
they know nothing about their country and their culture. | 0:07:48 | 0:07:51 | |
Now it is another thing. | 0:07:51 | 0:07:53 | |
-It's another world. -It is another world. | 0:07:53 | 0:07:56 | |
That's why we are trying to do something with our children here. | 0:07:56 | 0:07:59 | |
The next morning, it was time to get on the road | 0:08:11 | 0:08:15 | |
and head towards Egypt's Red Sea coast. | 0:08:15 | 0:08:17 | |
The route took us towards the dam that created Lake Nasser. | 0:08:17 | 0:08:22 | |
Because tourists and travellers in Egypt have been attacked | 0:08:22 | 0:08:25 | |
by terrorists in the past, we've been given an armed guard | 0:08:25 | 0:08:29 | |
to travel with us on this leg of the trip. | 0:08:29 | 0:08:32 | |
At the moment, he's having a kip in the back. | 0:08:32 | 0:08:35 | |
But you can see where the Egyptians got the inspiration from for their pyramids. | 0:08:41 | 0:08:45 | |
You see these pyramidal or conical structures | 0:08:45 | 0:08:49 | |
naturally formed everywhere out here. | 0:08:49 | 0:08:52 | |
The pyramid-shaped mounds | 0:08:54 | 0:08:55 | |
are made of sandstone and formed by wind erosion. | 0:08:55 | 0:08:58 | |
So this is the lake on our right and we've got to the end, | 0:09:12 | 0:09:16 | |
this is end of it, this is the Aswan Dam. | 0:09:16 | 0:09:20 | |
Since it was built in the '60s, this massive dam | 0:09:21 | 0:09:25 | |
has helped to power the Egyptian economy | 0:09:25 | 0:09:28 | |
and become a symbol of national pride. | 0:09:28 | 0:09:30 | |
It feels strange to be up here, because when we were down south | 0:09:30 | 0:09:35 | |
with the Nubians, we were hearing so many tragic stories about how... | 0:09:35 | 0:09:41 | |
the whole Nubian way of life | 0:09:41 | 0:09:44 | |
was lost as a result of the creation of this lake. | 0:09:44 | 0:09:47 | |
And now we get here to this colossal dam, | 0:09:47 | 0:09:52 | |
then you realise that to many people in Egypt, | 0:09:52 | 0:09:56 | |
perhaps most people in Egypt, this dam was a life-changer, | 0:09:56 | 0:10:01 | |
at the very least, and a life-saver in many ways, | 0:10:01 | 0:10:03 | |
because it provides electricity for so much of the country. | 0:10:03 | 0:10:08 | |
As well as providing hydroelectric power | 0:10:09 | 0:10:12 | |
for this desperately poor country, the dam regulates the annual floods | 0:10:12 | 0:10:16 | |
and has transformed agriculture along the Nile Valley, | 0:10:16 | 0:10:19 | |
where most of Egypt's huge population lives. | 0:10:19 | 0:10:22 | |
From Aswan, I planned to head across Egypt's southeastern desert | 0:10:28 | 0:10:32 | |
to the Red Sea, aiming for the small town of Shalatein, | 0:10:32 | 0:10:36 | |
close to the Tropic of Cancer. | 0:10:36 | 0:10:38 | |
But the camera-shy government officials monitoring my journey had other ideas. | 0:10:38 | 0:10:42 | |
So we're not allowed to go to Shalatein? | 0:10:42 | 0:10:46 | |
Not tomorrow, not the next day, not at all? | 0:10:46 | 0:10:49 | |
Well, this is a very surprising situation for us, | 0:10:53 | 0:10:55 | |
because we've travelled all the way round the world. | 0:10:55 | 0:10:59 | |
For me... For you, I'm dealing... | 0:10:59 | 0:11:01 | |
Yeah, this has happened to us twice now, | 0:11:01 | 0:11:04 | |
twice the Egyptian authorities have prevented us from filming | 0:11:04 | 0:11:07 | |
and even when they've prevented us from filming major stories, | 0:11:07 | 0:11:13 | |
they've also been saying, | 0:11:13 | 0:11:14 | |
"Oh, you can't film here, you can't film there, | 0:11:14 | 0:11:16 | |
"you can't film this thing by the road, you can't get out of the vehicle". | 0:11:16 | 0:11:19 | |
Despite its touristy image, Egypt remains an authoritarian state | 0:11:19 | 0:11:23 | |
where the government censors | 0:11:23 | 0:11:26 | |
the local media and routinely tries to control foreign film crews. | 0:11:26 | 0:11:30 | |
Undeterred, we left before dawn and headed on to the coast anyway, | 0:11:33 | 0:11:37 | |
not sure whether officials would allow us to film anything when we got there. | 0:11:37 | 0:11:41 | |
It was hundreds of miles across burning desert. | 0:11:41 | 0:11:44 | |
For thousands of years, nomadic tribespeople | 0:11:50 | 0:11:52 | |
have managed to exist out here in this merciless landscape, | 0:11:52 | 0:11:55 | |
living off animals they graze on the sparse vegetation. | 0:11:55 | 0:12:00 | |
But their days in the desert may be numbered. | 0:12:00 | 0:12:04 | |
After a very long journey across the desert, | 0:12:05 | 0:12:08 | |
it looks like we've made it. | 0:12:08 | 0:12:10 | |
I'll tell you what, if they turn us back now, | 0:12:13 | 0:12:15 | |
I think I might have a little sulk. | 0:12:15 | 0:12:17 | |
After more negotiations, we finally made it into Shalatein. | 0:12:21 | 0:12:24 | |
It's an unremarkable outpost, but it may well be on the front line | 0:12:24 | 0:12:28 | |
of perhaps the biggest issue now facing the tropics region - | 0:12:28 | 0:12:33 | |
global climate change. | 0:12:33 | 0:12:34 | |
In recent years, an unprecedented drought in Egypt's southeastern desert | 0:12:34 | 0:12:39 | |
has forced thousands of Bedouins to abandon their nomadic existence | 0:12:39 | 0:12:42 | |
and move to slum areas on the edge of this town. | 0:12:42 | 0:12:46 | |
With my translator Mohammed, | 0:12:48 | 0:12:51 | |
I went in search of a legendary Bedouin elder, Ali the Lion. | 0:12:51 | 0:12:55 | |
Ali. Ali! Salaam alaikum, Ali. | 0:12:55 | 0:12:58 | |
SIMON CHUCKLES | 0:12:58 | 0:13:00 | |
This is Ali the Lion. | 0:13:00 | 0:13:03 | |
Honoured to meet you. An honour to meet you. | 0:13:03 | 0:13:05 | |
Ali was the strongman of his tribe, | 0:13:07 | 0:13:10 | |
which thrived in the desert for generations. | 0:13:10 | 0:13:13 | |
But he told me his people were now suffering the most devastating drought | 0:13:13 | 0:13:16 | |
in living memory, decimating their animals and livestock. | 0:13:16 | 0:13:20 | |
Do you know more people who are leaving the desert to live in towns? | 0:13:20 | 0:13:24 | |
-IN TRANSLATION: -Hundreds of them. | 0:13:24 | 0:13:26 | |
People who lose their animals come and live here, near the market. | 0:13:26 | 0:13:32 | |
They get themselves small jobs working for other people, | 0:13:35 | 0:13:38 | |
doing anything to make a living for their kids. | 0:13:38 | 0:13:42 | |
Most Bedouins, like me, don't know how to read, | 0:13:47 | 0:13:50 | |
and we don't have the skills to get government jobs. | 0:13:50 | 0:13:53 | |
We only know how to make a living through our animals. | 0:13:53 | 0:13:55 | |
Scientists believe Ali and his people are among the first victims | 0:13:59 | 0:14:03 | |
of our changing global climate. | 0:14:03 | 0:14:05 | |
When they arrive here in town, | 0:14:05 | 0:14:07 | |
many Bedouin find themselves in deep poverty. | 0:14:07 | 0:14:10 | |
There's widespread health problems and malnutrition. | 0:14:10 | 0:14:13 | |
But despite their suffering, | 0:14:13 | 0:14:15 | |
the Bedouin remain true to an ancient nomadic tradition - hospitality. | 0:14:15 | 0:14:19 | |
What does that mean? | 0:14:19 | 0:14:21 | |
Ah, he want to, er, invite you to eat this goat. | 0:14:24 | 0:14:31 | |
-Ah. That's, er, a big honour, isn't it? -Yeah, of course. | 0:14:31 | 0:14:33 | |
OK. Shukran. | 0:14:33 | 0:14:36 | |
The goat's, er, just met its end. | 0:14:47 | 0:14:50 | |
God, it's amazing how... | 0:14:50 | 0:14:53 | |
rarely we see that now. | 0:14:53 | 0:14:57 | |
We're so separated from what happens to our food. | 0:14:57 | 0:15:02 | |
In a traditional Bedouin barbecue the meat is cooked on hot stones, | 0:15:02 | 0:15:07 | |
but even Ali the Lion's happy to embrace a bit of modernity. | 0:15:07 | 0:15:10 | |
- What is this? - Petrol. | 0:15:10 | 0:15:12 | |
To light the fire with. | 0:15:12 | 0:15:15 | |
So you're going to put a bit of petrol on it to get it going? | 0:15:15 | 0:15:18 | |
Aren't you supposed to do something | 0:15:18 | 0:15:19 | |
like twirling the sticks together or something? This is cheating! | 0:15:19 | 0:15:23 | |
No, that's what people did in the past. | 0:15:24 | 0:15:27 | |
These people have always had a precarious existence out in the desert, | 0:15:31 | 0:15:35 | |
but the way the climate is changing | 0:15:35 | 0:15:37 | |
could bring an end to their traditional way of life. | 0:15:37 | 0:15:39 | |
While the meat was cooking, Ali showed me around. | 0:15:39 | 0:15:42 | |
Personally, I don't mind living here. | 0:15:45 | 0:15:47 | |
But there are people who don't like living like this, without animals. | 0:15:49 | 0:15:53 | |
Here you're OK if you've got a job or if you have money. | 0:15:53 | 0:15:58 | |
You can come here and just relax. | 0:16:02 | 0:16:05 | |
Can we try some, then, Ali? | 0:16:09 | 0:16:13 | |
I mean, it's chewy, as goat always is, but it's delicious. | 0:16:23 | 0:16:26 | |
Meat is something of a luxury round here, | 0:16:31 | 0:16:34 | |
so it's every man and boy for himself. | 0:16:34 | 0:16:37 | |
Bloody hell! | 0:16:39 | 0:16:41 | |
-That happened very fast. -Children, you know. | 0:16:47 | 0:16:50 | |
I'm amazed they didn't get the bit that's in my mouth. | 0:16:50 | 0:16:53 | |
I've been travelling around the tropics at a time when remote nomadic people | 0:16:55 | 0:16:58 | |
are having their lives turned upside-down by climate change | 0:16:58 | 0:17:02 | |
and the encroachment of the modern world. | 0:17:02 | 0:17:04 | |
Forced out of deserts or tropical jungles, but lacking the skills | 0:17:04 | 0:17:08 | |
needed in towns and cities, | 0:17:08 | 0:17:10 | |
many end up scraping a living in slums, like the Bedouin. | 0:17:10 | 0:17:13 | |
Following the Tropic of Cancer | 0:17:17 | 0:17:19 | |
had taken me thousands of miles across North Africa. | 0:17:19 | 0:17:22 | |
Now my journey across the continent was coming to an end. | 0:17:22 | 0:17:26 | |
I'd reached a milestone, | 0:17:26 | 0:17:28 | |
the very edge of Africa, and the Red Sea coast. | 0:17:28 | 0:17:31 | |
Finally, we get to water. | 0:17:31 | 0:17:35 | |
Ah, it looks beautiful. | 0:17:36 | 0:17:39 | |
I hope that's all right. | 0:17:43 | 0:17:45 | |
So, I've met up with Hossam Helmy here, who's a... | 0:17:45 | 0:17:50 | |
Well, you're a pioneer, really, of diving in the Red Sea, aren't you? | 0:17:50 | 0:17:54 | |
Actually, we start here 20 years ago. | 0:17:54 | 0:17:57 | |
And how many times have you dived in the Red Sea? | 0:17:57 | 0:18:03 | |
The last time I counted, it was 5,000, that was seven years ago. | 0:18:03 | 0:18:07 | |
Hossam's dive centre was one of the first resorts | 0:18:11 | 0:18:14 | |
on this section of coast. | 0:18:14 | 0:18:15 | |
He took me out to see the coral reef | 0:18:15 | 0:18:17 | |
that flourishes on his doorstep, thanks to the warm tropical waters. | 0:18:17 | 0:18:22 | |
But even out here in the boat, there was no escaping | 0:18:22 | 0:18:26 | |
one of the many Egyptian officials following us around. | 0:18:26 | 0:18:28 | |
Would you mind asking our police guard if he knows how to swim? | 0:18:28 | 0:18:32 | |
Ah... | 0:18:32 | 0:18:33 | |
HOSSAM ASKS HIM | 0:18:33 | 0:18:36 | |
-He doesn't know how to swim? -No. | 0:18:39 | 0:18:41 | |
So we're going to have to look after him, then? | 0:18:41 | 0:18:43 | |
-If something happens... -We'll have to protect you! | 0:18:43 | 0:18:46 | |
Coral reef is one of the greatest treasures of the tropics region, | 0:19:06 | 0:19:09 | |
existing almost entirely between the Tropic of Capricorn, | 0:19:09 | 0:19:13 | |
the southern border of the tropics, and here, | 0:19:13 | 0:19:15 | |
more than 3,000 miles north of that line, on the Tropic of Cancer. | 0:19:15 | 0:19:19 | |
It was a thrill to find such diversity of life down here, | 0:19:21 | 0:19:25 | |
suggesting that this reef is in good health. | 0:19:25 | 0:19:27 | |
I think it's incredible, I really do. | 0:19:33 | 0:19:35 | |
You said it's like being in an aquarium, and it's true. | 0:19:35 | 0:19:39 | |
Because it's virgin, nobody dive here, nobody fish on this area, | 0:19:39 | 0:19:43 | |
no damage happened to the reef or to the shore, nothing. | 0:19:43 | 0:19:47 | |
Conditions in the Red Sea are especially good for coral reef. | 0:19:49 | 0:19:54 | |
It's relatively warm and shallow here compared to the large oceans, | 0:19:54 | 0:19:57 | |
and the coral is nourished | 0:19:57 | 0:19:59 | |
as rain washes minerals and nutrients into the water | 0:19:59 | 0:20:02 | |
from volcanic mountains around the sea. | 0:20:02 | 0:20:05 | |
Around the world at the moment, | 0:20:06 | 0:20:09 | |
coral reefs have been taking a battering, you might say, | 0:20:09 | 0:20:14 | |
they've been suffering a lot | 0:20:14 | 0:20:15 | |
-from climate change already. -Yes. | 0:20:15 | 0:20:17 | |
How important is it that we protect the reef | 0:20:17 | 0:20:20 | |
and preserve the ecosystem that's down there? | 0:20:20 | 0:20:22 | |
Er, actually, I believe that the Red Sea, the marine life that exists in the Red Sea, | 0:20:22 | 0:20:27 | |
does not exist anywhere else, it's a treasure, | 0:20:27 | 0:20:30 | |
and we have to save it, not for ourselves, for our next generation. | 0:20:30 | 0:20:34 | |
Although tourism is Egypt's biggest industry, | 0:20:46 | 0:20:50 | |
this southern Red Sea coast is still far less developed than areas further north. | 0:20:50 | 0:20:54 | |
But that could be about to change. | 0:20:54 | 0:20:57 | |
The government has plans for dozens of giant resorts to be built | 0:20:59 | 0:21:03 | |
along this stretch of the Red Sea. | 0:21:03 | 0:21:05 | |
Hossam is one of many who fear that too many tourists | 0:21:05 | 0:21:08 | |
could spell disaster for the coral reef. | 0:21:08 | 0:21:11 | |
You've got a resort here yourself, | 0:21:11 | 0:21:13 | |
and you've been here for a long time. | 0:21:13 | 0:21:16 | |
Am I right in thinking you would prefer it, | 0:21:16 | 0:21:17 | |
in all honesty, if there was only your resort here, really, wouldn't you? | 0:21:17 | 0:21:22 | |
You're right. | 0:21:22 | 0:21:23 | |
Partly, I'm sure, for commercial business reasons, | 0:21:23 | 0:21:26 | |
but partly also because it would mean fewer people | 0:21:26 | 0:21:29 | |
going in the sea and potentially damaging the coral reef? | 0:21:29 | 0:21:31 | |
Er, yes, I agree with you 100%. | 0:21:31 | 0:21:34 | |
I believe that that will be good for the nature on the south, | 0:21:34 | 0:21:39 | |
we can keep our resources, | 0:21:39 | 0:21:41 | |
natural resources, and we can keep it for our generation | 0:21:41 | 0:21:45 | |
and for the next generation, and maybe for the next coming 100 years, I hope. | 0:21:45 | 0:21:50 | |
Hossam thinks that to protect the reef, new resorts should have fewer rooms, | 0:21:50 | 0:21:54 | |
making them more expensive for tourists, but also more ecofriendly. | 0:21:54 | 0:21:58 | |
He has just over 200 beds on his site, | 0:21:58 | 0:22:00 | |
which the government says could hold more than 2,000. | 0:22:00 | 0:22:03 | |
We have to push for the softer impact for the ecotourism. | 0:22:03 | 0:22:07 | |
Big piece of land and less numbers of rooms. | 0:22:07 | 0:22:11 | |
That's what we are targeting to, we are pushing to... | 0:22:11 | 0:22:15 | |
It's very difficult dealing with investors because it's numbers for them. | 0:22:15 | 0:22:20 | |
If they can see a few successful projects | 0:22:20 | 0:22:24 | |
who are following the ecotourism system, maybe they will join. | 0:22:24 | 0:22:29 | |
I hope. | 0:22:29 | 0:22:30 | |
You know how much money I get for this piece of land? | 0:22:30 | 0:22:34 | |
So you've been offered money for your...your empty patch of...? | 0:22:34 | 0:22:37 | |
-Huge numbers. -Huge sum of money. | 0:22:37 | 0:22:39 | |
Huge number, but... | 0:22:39 | 0:22:41 | |
-But you refuse to sell? -I refuse to sell, yeah. | 0:22:41 | 0:22:44 | |
-Why? -Oh, to keep it as is, to keep it as is. | 0:22:44 | 0:22:47 | |
I'm going to lose myself if I do that. | 0:22:47 | 0:22:49 | |
-What, you'll lose your soul? -Yeah, yeah, exactly, my soul, yeah. | 0:22:49 | 0:22:54 | |
Hossam's making a good living from his resort | 0:22:54 | 0:22:57 | |
but he's turned down a chance to make a quick fortune. | 0:22:57 | 0:23:00 | |
And if others can also be persuaded | 0:23:00 | 0:23:02 | |
that protecting the environment is a vital long-term investment for all of us | 0:23:02 | 0:23:06 | |
then there's hope for tropical treasures like the Red Sea reefs. | 0:23:06 | 0:23:10 | |
I'd reached the edge of Egypt. | 0:23:12 | 0:23:14 | |
It was time to cross the Red Sea to the secretive kingdom of Saudi Arabia. | 0:23:14 | 0:23:18 | |
It has a pretty bad reputation, | 0:23:18 | 0:23:20 | |
I think it's fair to say, in terms of its openness to foreigners, | 0:23:20 | 0:23:24 | |
particularly in terms of its openness to foreigners. | 0:23:24 | 0:23:29 | |
It's been a great struggle for our team to secure visas for us | 0:23:29 | 0:23:32 | |
to travel across the kingdom. | 0:23:32 | 0:23:34 | |
I'm looking forward to it, but I'm a bit apprehensive as well. | 0:23:34 | 0:23:39 | |
Following the Tropic of Cancer across the Red Sea, | 0:23:43 | 0:23:45 | |
I flew to Saudi Arabia's second largest city, Jeddah, | 0:23:45 | 0:23:49 | |
just to the south of the line. | 0:23:49 | 0:23:51 | |
In order to secure visas to cross Saudi Arabia | 0:23:54 | 0:23:57 | |
we had to find someone to invite us and to vouch for us during our stay. | 0:23:57 | 0:24:02 | |
In the early hours of the morning, our sponsor and guide | 0:24:02 | 0:24:05 | |
came to meet us at the airport. | 0:24:05 | 0:24:07 | |
This is Danya. | 0:24:07 | 0:24:08 | |
She's going to be taking us across the country, isn't that right? | 0:24:08 | 0:24:11 | |
That's right. | 0:24:11 | 0:24:12 | |
I'm excited about travelling across Saudi Arabia. | 0:24:12 | 0:24:16 | |
-I'm a little bit apprehensive as well. -What are you afraid of? | 0:24:16 | 0:24:19 | |
I think the heat, the distances... | 0:24:19 | 0:24:23 | |
um... | 0:24:23 | 0:24:25 | |
and we've had a few problems in Egypt with government minder-type people, | 0:24:25 | 0:24:30 | |
so I hope things are going to go well here. | 0:24:30 | 0:24:32 | |
Let's hope so. | 0:24:32 | 0:24:33 | |
It might now be difficult for Western travellers to enter Saudi Arabia | 0:24:36 | 0:24:40 | |
but for centuries, Jeddah has been a bustling | 0:24:40 | 0:24:42 | |
and cosmopolitan Red Sea trading port. | 0:24:42 | 0:24:44 | |
And since Saudi Arabia's oil boom, | 0:24:46 | 0:24:48 | |
it's grown into a city of more than three million people. | 0:24:48 | 0:24:51 | |
The next day, Danya took me for a tour around the old town. | 0:24:52 | 0:24:55 | |
This is a great market, though. | 0:24:55 | 0:24:58 | |
It's packed with colour and stuff happening. | 0:24:58 | 0:25:00 | |
Yeah, it is, it's beautiful, I have to say. | 0:25:00 | 0:25:02 | |
You do see a real ethnic mix amongst the people here. | 0:25:02 | 0:25:07 | |
You know, I can see Saudis here, | 0:25:07 | 0:25:09 | |
but I can also see Africans, I can see Asians, | 0:25:09 | 0:25:14 | |
you can see people from all across the world, really. | 0:25:14 | 0:25:16 | |
Saudi Arabia has a reputation for suppressing free speech | 0:25:16 | 0:25:21 | |
and women's rights, so having a female guide was unusual. | 0:25:21 | 0:25:24 | |
But Danya's a businesswoman from an influential family. | 0:25:24 | 0:25:28 | |
There was lots I wanted to ask her, | 0:25:28 | 0:25:30 | |
but I wasn't sure what issues might get her into trouble. | 0:25:30 | 0:25:33 | |
A historical site felt safe enough. | 0:25:33 | 0:25:35 | |
So Danya, tell us where you've brought us. What is this arch here? | 0:25:35 | 0:25:39 | |
This arch is a representation of the old door, | 0:25:39 | 0:25:43 | |
which pilgrims used to go through to go towards Mecca. | 0:25:43 | 0:25:47 | |
So people would come to Jeddah | 0:25:47 | 0:25:49 | |
and they'd come through the port, they'd stop here, | 0:25:49 | 0:25:52 | |
and once they'd gotten themselves ready and whatever, | 0:25:52 | 0:25:56 | |
they'd leave through this door and go towards Mecca. | 0:25:56 | 0:25:59 | |
So in a way, the city was the arrival point | 0:25:59 | 0:26:02 | |
for pilgrims from across the Islamic world, then? | 0:26:02 | 0:26:05 | |
Exactly. And so Jeddah's always been a melting pot | 0:26:05 | 0:26:07 | |
for people from all around the world. | 0:26:07 | 0:26:09 | |
So this man, is he on his way to pilgrimage, probably? | 0:26:13 | 0:26:17 | |
-Probably, yes. -Salaam alaikum. | 0:26:17 | 0:26:19 | |
Alaikum salaam. | 0:26:19 | 0:26:20 | |
CALL TO PRAYER | 0:26:22 | 0:26:25 | |
That's the call to prayer, and I can see the shops closing here. | 0:26:30 | 0:26:34 | |
I mean, they move very quickly, don't they? | 0:26:34 | 0:26:36 | |
Yeah, they do. It's just basically like, "OK, it's calling, | 0:26:36 | 0:26:39 | |
"let's just shut everything down". | 0:26:39 | 0:26:41 | |
And this is one of the things that I really love. | 0:26:41 | 0:26:43 | |
I feel so safe here, because look, they don't even close their shops. | 0:26:43 | 0:26:49 | |
They just cover it with a blanket and that's enough. | 0:26:49 | 0:26:51 | |
You don't see anyone going in or stealing anything. | 0:26:51 | 0:26:54 | |
Men went inside the mosque to pray. | 0:26:54 | 0:26:58 | |
Like many mosques, it didn't have a women's section. | 0:26:58 | 0:27:01 | |
Danya prayed on the pavement. | 0:27:01 | 0:27:03 | |
The differing treatment of men and women in the kingdom | 0:27:05 | 0:27:08 | |
can be a shock to foreign visitors, and it affects even a pioneer like Danya. | 0:27:08 | 0:27:13 | |
She's one of the first women to own a media company in Saudi, | 0:27:13 | 0:27:16 | |
but I didn't know whether she'd be able | 0:27:16 | 0:27:18 | |
or willing to discuss such sensitive and controversial issues. | 0:27:18 | 0:27:23 | |
I found it a difficult situation. | 0:27:23 | 0:27:25 | |
I've certainly travelled through dozens of countries | 0:27:25 | 0:27:27 | |
on these journeys that I've been doing, | 0:27:27 | 0:27:29 | |
and this is the only one I can remember, | 0:27:29 | 0:27:31 | |
the only country I can remember we're visiting | 0:27:31 | 0:27:35 | |
whereby our entry is predicated almost on the fact that somebody has to sponsor us. | 0:27:35 | 0:27:40 | |
Almost, you're given a responsibility | 0:27:40 | 0:27:43 | |
to make sure we don't misbehave or talk about the wrong things | 0:27:43 | 0:27:46 | |
or do the wrong thing while we're in Saudi. | 0:27:46 | 0:27:49 | |
You've come as guests of the Ministry of Culture and Information, you know, | 0:27:49 | 0:27:53 | |
but we are the ones that are taking you around and so, definitely, | 0:27:53 | 0:27:56 | |
we feel some sort of responsibility, we feel a level of responsibility. | 0:27:56 | 0:28:00 | |
Are there things that you could say that could get us into trouble? | 0:28:00 | 0:28:03 | |
Potentially. You can't make everyone happy all the time, you know. | 0:28:03 | 0:28:06 | |
But there are sensitive issues that Saudis discuss openly. | 0:28:09 | 0:28:14 | |
Inside the kingdom, many view the biggest crisis as restlessness | 0:28:14 | 0:28:17 | |
among the country's rocketing population of pampered and underemployed young men. | 0:28:17 | 0:28:22 | |
Thousands of them have been attracted to violent Islamic extremism. | 0:28:22 | 0:28:27 | |
Boredom and frustration are rife, partly because the law forbids | 0:28:27 | 0:28:31 | |
young men from mixing with girls outside marriage or family. | 0:28:31 | 0:28:34 | |
So these are the Jeddah Boys. | 0:28:36 | 0:28:38 | |
But all the rules can't stop young Saudi men from doing what lads do. | 0:28:40 | 0:28:45 | |
With cars, that is. | 0:28:45 | 0:28:47 | |
-Simon. Lovely to meet you. -Salaam. | 0:28:47 | 0:28:50 | |
Thank you for letting us come down and see your vehicles. | 0:28:50 | 0:28:53 | |
-You're welcome. -Who are the Jeddah Boys? | 0:28:53 | 0:28:56 | |
Jeddah Boys, it's a club for modified cars, | 0:28:56 | 0:28:59 | |
and we do shows and put on things like this. | 0:28:59 | 0:29:03 | |
And this has got some sort of extraordinary sound system. | 0:29:03 | 0:29:06 | |
This is a mobile nightclub, really. | 0:29:06 | 0:29:09 | |
MUSIC DROWNS SPEECH | 0:29:09 | 0:29:13 | |
-I've got a bad feeling about this. -OK, are you ready? | 0:29:18 | 0:29:20 | |
SUSPENSION HISSES | 0:29:20 | 0:29:23 | |
We're cruising along here. | 0:29:30 | 0:29:32 | |
You're not a very good driver. | 0:29:33 | 0:29:35 | |
But I'm having a few accidents, I'm sorry, it's a very bumpy road. | 0:29:35 | 0:29:39 | |
There's a lot of love and work gone into these cars. What's the reason for it? | 0:29:39 | 0:29:42 | |
It's a hobby, like any other. It's a passion, actually. | 0:29:42 | 0:29:45 | |
People like to modify their cars, modify their engine. | 0:29:45 | 0:29:48 | |
It's something you don't see every day, you don't see in the streets. | 0:29:48 | 0:29:51 | |
As you're going around, you'll see that car once or twice, that's it. | 0:29:51 | 0:29:55 | |
I find this quite reassuring, | 0:29:55 | 0:29:57 | |
actually, because it can be quite hard for young men, young guys, | 0:29:57 | 0:30:01 | |
in Saudi to find an outlet for their passions. | 0:30:01 | 0:30:04 | |
It's difficult for them to meet girls | 0:30:04 | 0:30:05 | |
and there aren't things like cinemas and music concerts | 0:30:05 | 0:30:08 | |
like there are in the rest of the world, | 0:30:08 | 0:30:11 | |
and this is a way they're able to express themselves | 0:30:11 | 0:30:14 | |
in a way that's almost artistic, really. | 0:30:14 | 0:30:17 | |
Some might want to be artists, but other frustrated young men | 0:30:19 | 0:30:22 | |
just want an adrenaline rush. | 0:30:22 | 0:30:23 | |
An epidemic of dangerous street racing has led to carnage | 0:30:23 | 0:30:27 | |
on the kingdom's roads, | 0:30:27 | 0:30:28 | |
so the authorities have come up with a novel way | 0:30:28 | 0:30:30 | |
of channelling all the youthful energy. | 0:30:30 | 0:30:33 | |
TYRES SCREECH | 0:30:38 | 0:30:40 | |
This is the Jeddah Raceway. | 0:30:41 | 0:30:44 | |
It's a government-approved playground for Saudi Arabia's boy racers. | 0:30:45 | 0:30:50 | |
-Hossam. -How are you doing? | 0:31:00 | 0:31:03 | |
-Salaam alaikum. -How are you doing, my friend? | 0:31:03 | 0:31:05 | |
-Simon, nice to meet you. -Simon... | 0:31:05 | 0:31:06 | |
Hossam Tayab is a professional driver on the Saudi racing scene. | 0:31:06 | 0:31:12 | |
Why was the raceway set up in the first place? What's the point of it? | 0:31:12 | 0:31:16 | |
Er, the first reason was to minimise the reckless driving that is going on | 0:31:16 | 0:31:22 | |
on the street and try to guide people to put their passion | 0:31:22 | 0:31:25 | |
and hobbies in the right way. | 0:31:25 | 0:31:27 | |
Was there a serious problem, then, before the raceway, | 0:31:27 | 0:31:29 | |
with kids driving too fast, driving dangerously on the street? | 0:31:29 | 0:31:32 | |
Well, in the main cities, the policemen, | 0:31:32 | 0:31:35 | |
they have some sort of control over this, but unfortunately, in the suburb areas | 0:31:35 | 0:31:40 | |
there were some incidents that took place | 0:31:40 | 0:31:42 | |
where really, really youngsters will do really, really bad stunts. | 0:31:42 | 0:31:47 | |
Hossam offered to give me a crash course in the kind of driving | 0:31:47 | 0:31:50 | |
youngsters have been doing on public roads. | 0:31:50 | 0:31:52 | |
Hossam, how much do you love your Porsche? | 0:31:52 | 0:31:56 | |
-Very much. -Oh, dear. | 0:31:56 | 0:31:57 | |
I work really hard to buy this car. | 0:31:57 | 0:32:00 | |
Oh, dear. | 0:32:00 | 0:32:02 | |
Like, usually when you drive normal, you relax, | 0:32:02 | 0:32:06 | |
but this you need to make sure you have full grip on the steering wheel | 0:32:06 | 0:32:09 | |
and your foot is completely on the pedals. | 0:32:09 | 0:32:12 | |
Yeah, my knees are... | 0:32:12 | 0:32:14 | |
You're not touching the pedals with your toes. | 0:32:14 | 0:32:16 | |
-Oh, OK. -OK? | 0:32:16 | 0:32:17 | |
You're exploring Saudi in a different way. | 0:32:17 | 0:32:20 | |
Exactly. | 0:32:20 | 0:32:22 | |
Oh, sorry. | 0:32:27 | 0:32:29 | |
-OK, slow down. -Slow down a bit. | 0:32:29 | 0:32:31 | |
Slow down. Sharp turn. | 0:32:31 | 0:32:33 | |
Get on it. | 0:32:33 | 0:32:35 | |
-Whoa! -It's OK, it's OK, no problem. | 0:32:35 | 0:32:38 | |
-Are you sure? -Yeah, yeah. Start it. | 0:32:38 | 0:32:41 | |
OK. Put it into first gear. | 0:32:42 | 0:32:44 | |
-OK. -Try to make the U-turn. | 0:32:44 | 0:32:48 | |
Everything is normal and cool and fine. | 0:32:48 | 0:32:49 | |
-Yeah? -Yeah. | 0:32:49 | 0:32:50 | |
The car just went out of control a little bit. | 0:32:52 | 0:32:55 | |
-A little bit? -Yeah. | 0:32:55 | 0:32:56 | |
I think you're being very generous! | 0:32:56 | 0:32:59 | |
Slow down here, and turn, sharp turn. | 0:32:59 | 0:33:03 | |
TYRES SCREECH | 0:33:03 | 0:33:04 | |
Yeah! | 0:33:04 | 0:33:06 | |
Yeah! | 0:33:06 | 0:33:08 | |
While you turn, you can blip it to get... | 0:33:08 | 0:33:10 | |
-Yeah, you see. -Like that? | 0:33:10 | 0:33:12 | |
More. More. A little bit more. Little bit more. | 0:33:12 | 0:33:15 | |
-SIMON SHOUTS -It's OK, it's OK. | 0:33:15 | 0:33:17 | |
Sharp left turn. | 0:33:17 | 0:33:19 | |
-Yeah. -Give it gas, give it the gas, yeah. | 0:33:19 | 0:33:22 | |
-You're getting it. You're doing it. -Yeah! | 0:33:22 | 0:33:25 | |
-There you go. -What fun! | 0:33:25 | 0:33:28 | |
-You're good... -OK. | 0:33:28 | 0:33:30 | |
You're good with the foot, you're a little bit slow on the steering. | 0:33:30 | 0:33:33 | |
I got it! I got some applause! | 0:33:33 | 0:33:35 | |
-Yeah. -Ah! Oh, my goodness. | 0:33:35 | 0:33:39 | |
It's completely intoxicating, I want to get a Porsche now | 0:33:39 | 0:33:42 | |
and do this again. Thank you so much. | 0:33:42 | 0:33:44 | |
You're most welcome, I hope you enjoyed it. | 0:33:44 | 0:33:46 | |
I hit a few cones, but honestly, | 0:33:51 | 0:33:55 | |
it's a lot of fun. | 0:33:55 | 0:33:57 | |
To reduce widespread disaffection among the young | 0:34:01 | 0:34:04 | |
and draw them away from joyriding and the excitement of militant groups, | 0:34:04 | 0:34:08 | |
the government's investing heavily in schemes like this, | 0:34:08 | 0:34:11 | |
giving young men a chance to burn rubber and let off steam. | 0:34:11 | 0:34:14 | |
Following the Tropic of Cancer took me on from Jeddah | 0:34:18 | 0:34:20 | |
to the Saudi capital, Riyadh, across hundreds of miles of empty desert. | 0:34:20 | 0:34:25 | |
Riyadh is the conservative heartland of the country. | 0:34:30 | 0:34:34 | |
It's a sterile place, not the most thrilling city to visit. | 0:34:36 | 0:34:41 | |
Even locals admit there's not much to do except pray and shop. | 0:34:41 | 0:34:46 | |
Many forms of Western entertainment are banned here, | 0:34:46 | 0:34:49 | |
but the Saudis certainly don't seem to mind a bit of extravagant consumerism. | 0:34:49 | 0:34:53 | |
-It's very flash here, isn't it? -Hmm-mm, it's a shopping mall. | 0:34:53 | 0:34:58 | |
The image that outsiders have of the type of Islam | 0:34:59 | 0:35:05 | |
that's practised in Saudi Arabia is that it's very austere, | 0:35:05 | 0:35:10 | |
almost quite militant. | 0:35:10 | 0:35:12 | |
How does that square with a shopping mall like this? | 0:35:12 | 0:35:18 | |
Look, this is Wallis, this is a store we have in Europe. | 0:35:18 | 0:35:21 | |
Next to it is La Senza, this is a lingerie shop. | 0:35:21 | 0:35:24 | |
-Is there any conflict between the two? -I don't see any conflict because... | 0:35:24 | 0:35:30 | |
at the end of the day, it's just shopping, you know what I mean? | 0:35:30 | 0:35:33 | |
It's like, maybe people think that women can't dress up or whatever | 0:35:33 | 0:35:38 | |
because they're always covered, but then you see the jeans | 0:35:38 | 0:35:41 | |
and you see the underwear and you see the tights | 0:35:41 | 0:35:44 | |
and you see all of these types of things, and obviously, | 0:35:44 | 0:35:46 | |
you know, women can wear them, they can wear it at home, | 0:35:46 | 0:35:48 | |
they can wear it in front of their family, | 0:35:48 | 0:35:50 | |
in front of their friends, things like that, you know. | 0:35:50 | 0:35:53 | |
But I would say one of the most common stereotypes | 0:35:53 | 0:35:56 | |
is that Saudi women are oppressed, | 0:35:56 | 0:35:58 | |
and usually that's based on the fact that we're wearing an abaya, | 0:35:58 | 0:36:02 | |
but honestly, to us, it's not oppression. | 0:36:02 | 0:36:05 | |
You know, this is what's normal to us, | 0:36:05 | 0:36:07 | |
this is what we've grown up with, this is what we live. | 0:36:07 | 0:36:10 | |
It's not a signal that we can't do things just because we're wearing black. | 0:36:10 | 0:36:16 | |
That's maybe, for me, something difficult to understand, | 0:36:16 | 0:36:19 | |
is why the West sees the way we dress as a sign of oppression. | 0:36:19 | 0:36:23 | |
Maybe you could enlighten me. | 0:36:23 | 0:36:25 | |
You've turned it back onto me very well. | 0:36:25 | 0:36:27 | |
I think we see it as a sign of oppression | 0:36:27 | 0:36:30 | |
because we believe it's imposed on you by men. | 0:36:30 | 0:36:34 | |
But I never see people saying, well, high heels, for me, | 0:36:34 | 0:36:39 | |
are a sign of oppression, you know, and that was instituted by men. | 0:36:39 | 0:36:43 | |
So how come women breaking their feet walking around is not oppressive | 0:36:43 | 0:36:48 | |
and yet covering myself up is considered as oppressive, you know? | 0:36:48 | 0:36:52 | |
Of course, it's not a comparison everyone would accept. | 0:36:53 | 0:36:57 | |
And the reality here is that Saudi women aren't even allowed to drive | 0:36:57 | 0:37:00 | |
and face punishment if they're not acceptably dressed. | 0:37:00 | 0:37:04 | |
But it was clear Danya genuinely believes the abaya isn't a form of oppression. | 0:37:04 | 0:37:09 | |
SIREN | 0:37:12 | 0:37:15 | |
It's quarter to six in the morning and we're up ridiculously early | 0:37:20 | 0:37:26 | |
because we've got to catch a train, because we're heading to Dubai. | 0:37:26 | 0:37:30 | |
In the country with the world's largest oil reserves, | 0:37:34 | 0:37:37 | |
the car is king and everyone drives everywhere. | 0:37:37 | 0:37:40 | |
Perhaps that's why this is the only railway on the Arabian peninsula. | 0:37:40 | 0:37:44 | |
From Riyadh, our train would cross the fabled Empty Quarter desert, | 0:37:58 | 0:38:03 | |
the largest sand sea in the world, to the Gulf coast. | 0:38:03 | 0:38:06 | |
The view outside, well, it's like we're taking a train across Mars. | 0:38:12 | 0:38:18 | |
It's an otherworldly landscape. | 0:38:18 | 0:38:21 | |
Boiling hot, dusty as hell | 0:38:21 | 0:38:25 | |
and virtually sterile. | 0:38:25 | 0:38:28 | |
Completely alien environment, but beautiful nonetheless. | 0:38:29 | 0:38:33 | |
Dotted out here in the desert are oilfields, | 0:38:36 | 0:38:40 | |
some of the largest oilfields on the world, | 0:38:40 | 0:38:43 | |
that power our industrial economies. | 0:38:43 | 0:38:46 | |
This is where we get our black gold. | 0:38:46 | 0:38:48 | |
Or at least, the Saudis do. | 0:38:50 | 0:38:52 | |
In our air-conditioned bubble, | 0:39:03 | 0:39:06 | |
Danya and I settled down with the daily papers. | 0:39:06 | 0:39:09 | |
From the outside, | 0:39:09 | 0:39:11 | |
Saudi Arabia can seem to be a country where there's not much discussion | 0:39:11 | 0:39:17 | |
about change, about political-type issues, | 0:39:17 | 0:39:22 | |
but when you start opening newspapers in Saudi, | 0:39:22 | 0:39:26 | |
you do start to see that there is debate about the sort of issues | 0:39:26 | 0:39:30 | |
that concern people outside Saudi Arabia. | 0:39:30 | 0:39:34 | |
This is saying that Saudi Arabia needs to change, | 0:39:34 | 0:39:37 | |
it talks about the role of women. | 0:39:37 | 0:39:39 | |
It says, "Male-dominated families are oblivious to the rights of women | 0:39:39 | 0:39:43 | |
"to enjoy the same privileges afforded the menfolk. | 0:39:43 | 0:39:46 | |
"Society still debates the rights of women to work, | 0:39:46 | 0:39:49 | |
"their right to travel and their right to conduct business". | 0:39:49 | 0:39:52 | |
Now, regardless of what you think of this, | 0:39:52 | 0:39:55 | |
regardless of what I think of this, | 0:39:55 | 0:39:57 | |
at least this is a debate that's being had. | 0:39:57 | 0:40:01 | |
You know, people do talk about this. | 0:40:01 | 0:40:03 | |
Well, I have friends who write for newspapers | 0:40:03 | 0:40:05 | |
and I have friends who just get angry about stuff | 0:40:05 | 0:40:08 | |
and write to newspapers, and have their, you know, | 0:40:08 | 0:40:11 | |
letters and articles published, so there is definitely | 0:40:11 | 0:40:15 | |
a healthy debate on different topics going on in the kingdom. | 0:40:15 | 0:40:19 | |
I mean, it's not that, you know, people are... | 0:40:19 | 0:40:22 | |
-Silent. -Yeah. | 0:40:22 | 0:40:24 | |
Saudi Arabia has rightly been given a battering by human rights groups | 0:40:24 | 0:40:29 | |
and it remains a country and a culture that's difficult | 0:40:29 | 0:40:33 | |
for outsiders to penetrate. | 0:40:33 | 0:40:34 | |
But I couldn't fault the warm welcome I'd received. | 0:40:34 | 0:40:39 | |
I followed the Tropic of Cancer on east into the United Arab Emirates, | 0:40:41 | 0:40:45 | |
and I headed for its biggest and brashest attraction - | 0:40:45 | 0:40:48 | |
Dubai. | 0:40:48 | 0:40:50 | |
Perched on the edge of The Gulf, it rises up out of the desert, | 0:40:55 | 0:40:59 | |
a symbol of success, or a monument to excess? | 0:40:59 | 0:41:03 | |
I'd heard a lot about the city, but I'd never been, | 0:41:10 | 0:41:14 | |
and after the austerity of Saudi Arabia, it was all a bit overwhelming. | 0:41:14 | 0:41:19 | |
This luxury playground has drawn thousands of Western expats | 0:41:19 | 0:41:23 | |
and millions of holiday-makers, | 0:41:23 | 0:41:25 | |
with its year-round sun and tax-free salaries. | 0:41:25 | 0:41:29 | |
But Dubai is best understood from above. | 0:41:31 | 0:41:34 | |
It's only really when you're up in the air here | 0:41:40 | 0:41:43 | |
that you get a sense of the real scale of Dubai... | 0:41:43 | 0:41:45 | |
...of what they've achieved here. | 0:41:46 | 0:41:48 | |
I mean, just a couple of decades ago, most of this, | 0:41:48 | 0:41:50 | |
almost all of this, was just desert. | 0:41:50 | 0:41:53 | |
The discovery of oil in the 1960s kick-started Dubai's transformation | 0:41:55 | 0:41:59 | |
from a sleepy backwater port into a major international city. | 0:41:59 | 0:42:04 | |
During the boom years, billions were ploughed | 0:42:04 | 0:42:06 | |
into some of the most extraordinary and rapid development anywhere in the world. | 0:42:06 | 0:42:10 | |
The rulers of Dubai seem to have thought they had to build big. | 0:42:11 | 0:42:15 | |
The latest landmark was supposed to be Dubai's crowning glory. | 0:42:15 | 0:42:20 | |
The Burj Khalifa is the tallest building in the world, | 0:42:22 | 0:42:25 | |
more than half a mile high, double the height of the Empire State Building. | 0:42:25 | 0:42:30 | |
But will it be a success? | 0:42:30 | 0:42:32 | |
The ambition of this place really is quite overwhelming. | 0:42:35 | 0:42:39 | |
Just over here you can see perhaps the grandest, | 0:42:39 | 0:42:42 | |
biggest engineering scheme and building scheme | 0:42:42 | 0:42:44 | |
they've come up with in Dubai. | 0:42:44 | 0:42:46 | |
This is supposed to be the world. | 0:42:46 | 0:42:48 | |
All those little islands here are supposed to resemble parts of the planet | 0:42:48 | 0:42:52 | |
and it's supposed to be a giant residential complex | 0:42:52 | 0:42:57 | |
that will be reached by boat or by helicopter from the mainland. | 0:42:57 | 0:43:00 | |
But The World was looking very quiet. | 0:43:01 | 0:43:05 | |
Like the whole of Dubai, it's been hit hard by the global recession. | 0:43:05 | 0:43:09 | |
Investors in this project have lost a fortune. | 0:43:09 | 0:43:11 | |
But there's another, forgotten group in Dubai | 0:43:15 | 0:43:18 | |
who gambled more than just their savings here, | 0:43:18 | 0:43:20 | |
risking everything in the hope of a better life. | 0:43:20 | 0:43:23 | |
We've just stopped by the side of the road, because we noticed | 0:43:23 | 0:43:28 | |
that the road up here has been blocked off, | 0:43:28 | 0:43:30 | |
so that coachload after coachload | 0:43:30 | 0:43:34 | |
of migrant workers who've come here to build this city, | 0:43:34 | 0:43:38 | |
coachloads of them are going past. | 0:43:38 | 0:43:41 | |
I guess it's maybe the end of the shift or something. | 0:43:41 | 0:43:43 | |
Where are you guys from? Bangladesh, India? | 0:43:43 | 0:43:47 | |
-India. -India? Bangladesh? | 0:43:47 | 0:43:50 | |
-Bangladesh? -India. | 0:43:50 | 0:43:52 | |
SIMON LAUGHS | 0:43:52 | 0:43:54 | |
This is a bit of globalisation that always gets me a bit emotional, | 0:43:54 | 0:43:58 | |
people who travel across this planet | 0:43:58 | 0:44:00 | |
seeking a better life, you know, they're seeking work, | 0:44:00 | 0:44:04 | |
they're seeking more money for their families. | 0:44:04 | 0:44:07 | |
That, for me, is the real story of globalisation. | 0:44:07 | 0:44:10 | |
There are thought to be almost a million migrant workers in Dubai, | 0:44:11 | 0:44:15 | |
two-thirds of the entire population. | 0:44:15 | 0:44:17 | |
But many have discovered the streets here aren't exactly paved with gold. | 0:44:17 | 0:44:21 | |
In recent years there have been widespread allegations | 0:44:21 | 0:44:24 | |
of mistreatment and exploitation of workers. | 0:44:24 | 0:44:28 | |
I met Almas Pardiwallah, a former employment agent | 0:44:28 | 0:44:31 | |
who campaigns for the rights of these men. | 0:44:31 | 0:44:34 | |
She told me the situation for the workers has been getting worse | 0:44:34 | 0:44:36 | |
since the economic downturn. | 0:44:36 | 0:44:38 | |
The workers live in camps out on the edge of town. | 0:44:41 | 0:44:43 | |
So can you tell us a little bit about the camps? | 0:44:43 | 0:44:46 | |
We're heading to one now. | 0:44:46 | 0:44:48 | |
Sonapur is a place where the maximum of the camps are concentrated on. | 0:44:48 | 0:44:52 | |
-Right. -Most of them. | 0:44:52 | 0:44:53 | |
It's like Labour City, if you wish to call it. | 0:44:53 | 0:44:56 | |
Each camp appears to be the property, | 0:44:57 | 0:45:00 | |
if you like, of the company that employs the workers, | 0:45:00 | 0:45:05 | |
so we might have to go in a little covertly. | 0:45:05 | 0:45:09 | |
Typical camp, is it? | 0:45:09 | 0:45:11 | |
There are 50 men living in this block who are locked | 0:45:11 | 0:45:14 | |
in a desperate fight with the company they came here to work for. | 0:45:14 | 0:45:17 | |
-IN TRANSLATION: -Some of us have worked for seven months, | 0:45:18 | 0:45:21 | |
some for less, but now we've been laid off | 0:45:21 | 0:45:24 | |
and we haven't been paid anything since we arrived. | 0:45:24 | 0:45:27 | |
They say there's no work. | 0:45:27 | 0:45:30 | |
Many of the migrants here | 0:45:30 | 0:45:32 | |
borrowed from loan sharks to pay for their work visas. | 0:45:32 | 0:45:34 | |
Then they were supposed to spend their first few months in Dubai | 0:45:34 | 0:45:37 | |
paying off the loans. | 0:45:37 | 0:45:39 | |
22-year-old Shoak put up his family home in Bangladesh as security. | 0:45:39 | 0:45:43 | |
You took out about a £1,500 loan, then, to come to Dubai. | 0:45:43 | 0:45:47 | |
Why did you want to come? | 0:45:47 | 0:45:49 | |
-IN TRANSLATION: -The agent told me it would be easy to earn £400 a month in Dubai. | 0:45:49 | 0:45:54 | |
Instead, I was given £40 for food when I arrived, and then nothing. | 0:45:56 | 0:46:01 | |
I just stay in my room. | 0:46:01 | 0:46:03 | |
For the last three months, there's been no work. | 0:46:03 | 0:46:06 | |
Most of these men's families are completely reliant on their incomes. | 0:46:07 | 0:46:11 | |
I'm the only breadwinner in my family. I look after my mother and my brother. | 0:46:11 | 0:46:16 | |
If I don't earn money here, they could take our house away. | 0:46:16 | 0:46:20 | |
My mother's already in financial trouble. | 0:46:20 | 0:46:23 | |
It must feel like you're living a nightmare. | 0:46:23 | 0:46:26 | |
I won't go back to Bangladesh. I'll work here and I'll die here. | 0:46:26 | 0:46:31 | |
I'll be killed if I go back. | 0:46:31 | 0:46:34 | |
They can't pay off their loans or pay for flights home. | 0:46:37 | 0:46:39 | |
They're trapped. | 0:46:39 | 0:46:40 | |
But they're not getting any help from the authorities in Dubai. | 0:46:40 | 0:46:43 | |
-IN TRANSLATION: -We've been to the Labour Court and the High Court, | 0:46:43 | 0:46:48 | |
our problem hasn't been solved, and they never say when it will be. | 0:46:48 | 0:46:52 | |
They just tell us to keep coming back. | 0:46:52 | 0:46:55 | |
We're going mad. | 0:46:55 | 0:46:57 | |
And this is presumably quite a typical story. | 0:46:57 | 0:47:00 | |
-Very typical. -They're pulled this way and that, | 0:47:00 | 0:47:02 | |
they've got threats here, threats there against them. | 0:47:02 | 0:47:04 | |
That's an absolute typical, normal case in this case, if you can call it. | 0:47:04 | 0:47:08 | |
They have no option and no help forthcoming from any quarter. | 0:47:08 | 0:47:12 | |
Do you know what you're going to do? | 0:47:12 | 0:47:15 | |
They say if no outcome for this dilemma is forthcoming, | 0:47:18 | 0:47:22 | |
-they will commit mass suicide. -Do they really mean that? | 0:47:22 | 0:47:26 | |
Have you heard of cases | 0:47:30 | 0:47:32 | |
-where guys have committed suicide in this situation? -Oh, yes. | 0:47:32 | 0:47:35 | |
It really does happen? | 0:47:35 | 0:47:37 | |
Yes, because if they go back home, | 0:47:37 | 0:47:38 | |
the moneylenders are not going to be nationalised bank | 0:47:38 | 0:47:42 | |
where a notice is going to come. | 0:47:42 | 0:47:43 | |
There's somebody going to come and crack your kneecaps, | 0:47:43 | 0:47:46 | |
probably if you have a sister, take away your sister or a child, | 0:47:46 | 0:47:49 | |
so how are they going to cope with that kind of a dilemma | 0:47:49 | 0:47:51 | |
when they go back home? | 0:47:51 | 0:47:53 | |
It's as bad as that? | 0:47:53 | 0:47:55 | |
It's like jumping from one mafia to another. | 0:47:55 | 0:47:58 | |
Almas is very generously and charitably agreeing to take on their case, it seems. | 0:48:10 | 0:48:15 | |
It's a completely different side to Dubai that we're seeing here | 0:48:17 | 0:48:22 | |
and it's a side that I think a lot of people close their eyes to, | 0:48:22 | 0:48:25 | |
but when you come here, you're confronted by the facts. | 0:48:25 | 0:48:29 | |
These are the people who build Dubai | 0:48:29 | 0:48:31 | |
and this is how they're treated. | 0:48:31 | 0:48:34 | |
It's bloody depressing. | 0:48:34 | 0:48:36 | |
It really is. | 0:48:36 | 0:48:37 | |
A madcap folly, Dubai is a monument to the worst capitalist excesses, | 0:48:41 | 0:48:46 | |
and many have said there's a certain poetic justice to its decline. | 0:48:46 | 0:48:50 | |
But it's not only rich investors and businessmen who've been hit hard here. | 0:48:50 | 0:48:53 | |
The real victims may well be the thousands of migrant labourers | 0:48:53 | 0:48:56 | |
who now find themselves stuck here without work. | 0:48:56 | 0:49:00 | |
It was a reminder of the value of my passport | 0:49:03 | 0:49:06 | |
and the freedom it offers as I headed along the Tropic of Cancer | 0:49:06 | 0:49:09 | |
from Dubai towards Oman, | 0:49:09 | 0:49:11 | |
the last tropical country on this leg of my journey. | 0:49:11 | 0:49:15 | |
Just a few hours' drive from the bling of Dubai, | 0:49:20 | 0:49:24 | |
Oman feels like another planet. | 0:49:24 | 0:49:26 | |
While Dubai's turned itself into a Middle Eastern Las Vegas, | 0:49:26 | 0:49:30 | |
Oman is a stable, ancient country, | 0:49:30 | 0:49:32 | |
hoping visitors will be drawn to its natural wonders. | 0:49:32 | 0:49:35 | |
We can already see the landscape changing a little. | 0:49:35 | 0:49:40 | |
Travelling across Saudi and then into UAE, the landscape was very flat. | 0:49:40 | 0:49:44 | |
It's nice to see something different. | 0:49:45 | 0:49:47 | |
And the best way of experiencing the beauty of the place | 0:49:51 | 0:49:55 | |
was to get outside and under canvas. | 0:49:55 | 0:49:57 | |
Five-star all the way. | 0:50:05 | 0:50:07 | |
It is ten past seven in the morning | 0:50:22 | 0:50:24 | |
and the temperature is already over 40 degrees centigrade. | 0:50:24 | 0:50:28 | |
It just doesn't seem to get cold here, it's just hot or hotter. | 0:50:28 | 0:50:34 | |
The Omani authorities had sent along a government minder, | 0:50:34 | 0:50:38 | |
but Shaka could not have been more different | 0:50:38 | 0:50:40 | |
to his obstructive counterparts in Egypt. | 0:50:40 | 0:50:42 | |
When you've got a country as beautiful as this, | 0:50:42 | 0:50:45 | |
you could be making a good income from it. | 0:50:45 | 0:50:48 | |
That's true. But to keep it, to preserve it, not to ruin it. | 0:50:48 | 0:50:54 | |
-That's the key. -Come, enjoy, entertain yourself | 0:50:54 | 0:50:57 | |
and then, yeah, leave it as it is, you know. | 0:50:57 | 0:51:01 | |
Do you need to worry about tourists? Because you have oil. | 0:51:01 | 0:51:05 | |
Yes, but oil... oil will not last for long. | 0:51:05 | 0:51:10 | |
There's one day when you'll wake up in the morning | 0:51:10 | 0:51:13 | |
and there is no oil, so what are we going to do? | 0:51:13 | 0:51:17 | |
We need something else, another income. | 0:51:17 | 0:51:19 | |
-We're going to go? -All right. | 0:51:19 | 0:51:20 | |
Come on, then. | 0:51:20 | 0:51:21 | |
Oh! | 0:51:21 | 0:51:23 | |
BOTH: Oo-oh. | 0:51:26 | 0:51:30 | |
Ooh, it's bloody freezing! | 0:51:30 | 0:51:34 | |
The only time in Oman we've been cold. Ah... | 0:51:34 | 0:51:39 | |
It's very refreshing. | 0:51:39 | 0:51:41 | |
A few more hours on the road took us to Nizwa, | 0:51:55 | 0:51:59 | |
one of Oman's oldest cities. | 0:51:59 | 0:52:00 | |
My translator, Nasib, took me along to its famous market. | 0:52:02 | 0:52:06 | |
That man has a sheep in the back of his car. | 0:52:09 | 0:52:12 | |
I'm not sure the RSPCA would approve of that. | 0:52:12 | 0:52:14 | |
SHEEP BLEATS | 0:52:15 | 0:52:17 | |
The Omanis are keen to protect both their country and their culture. | 0:52:20 | 0:52:24 | |
The contrast with flashy Dubai couldn't have been greater. | 0:52:24 | 0:52:28 | |
It does feel like we've stumbled into a scene | 0:52:28 | 0:52:31 | |
from the Old Testament, really. | 0:52:31 | 0:52:34 | |
Men are leading goats or carrying goats around the ring here | 0:52:34 | 0:52:38 | |
and everybody else is then bidding on them if they want to buy. | 0:52:38 | 0:52:43 | |
The ladies on my left, what is their involvement in this? | 0:52:47 | 0:52:52 | |
They're owner of the goats, they came from the desert. Bedouin. | 0:52:52 | 0:52:56 | |
-From the eastern region. -The ladies actually own the goats? | 0:52:56 | 0:53:01 | |
-Own the goats. -And the men sell them? | 0:53:01 | 0:53:03 | |
Yeah, the men there, they just go around and sell them | 0:53:03 | 0:53:06 | |
and they take some little percentage. | 0:53:06 | 0:53:09 | |
You still get a sense of Bedouin culture here, I think. | 0:53:17 | 0:53:20 | |
Oman still has a very large Bedouin community. | 0:53:20 | 0:53:24 | |
They might not be nomadic any more | 0:53:24 | 0:53:26 | |
but the market is still a place where Bedouins can come | 0:53:26 | 0:53:30 | |
and they can buy and sell cattle, sheep, goats and their...their livestock. | 0:53:30 | 0:53:34 | |
Leaving the mountains behind, we made the final push across the desert | 0:53:49 | 0:53:54 | |
to the very edge of Arabia, | 0:53:54 | 0:53:57 | |
and one of Oman's most extraordinary sights. | 0:53:57 | 0:53:59 | |
The sun's just going down over the mountains behind us | 0:54:07 | 0:54:10 | |
and we're nearly at the end of this leg of the journey. | 0:54:10 | 0:54:14 | |
The beaches down here are the most easterly point | 0:54:14 | 0:54:19 | |
of the entire Arabian peninsula, | 0:54:19 | 0:54:22 | |
but we can't quite get down to the beach yet | 0:54:22 | 0:54:25 | |
because tonight there'll be some very special visitors. | 0:54:25 | 0:54:30 | |
I met up with two guides who knew where to find the intrepid travellers | 0:54:35 | 0:54:39 | |
who come to this beach, which is protected by the Omani government. | 0:54:39 | 0:54:43 | |
-Can you see just down here the tracks? -Like a tank's. | 0:54:43 | 0:54:47 | |
It looks like a tank, exactly. | 0:54:47 | 0:54:49 | |
This is very exciting, Mohammed. Very exciting. | 0:54:49 | 0:54:53 | |
It wasn't long before we saw the first visitor. | 0:54:56 | 0:54:59 | |
My God, there's one just there, look. | 0:55:02 | 0:55:04 | |
Look at that. | 0:55:05 | 0:55:07 | |
An enormous and endangered green turtle, one of the greatest ocean travellers. | 0:55:07 | 0:55:12 | |
For just one night every three years, she leaves the sea | 0:55:12 | 0:55:16 | |
to look for somewhere to lay her eggs. | 0:55:16 | 0:55:18 | |
I can't tell you how excited I am to witness this. | 0:55:18 | 0:55:21 | |
I've never seen anything like this before | 0:55:21 | 0:55:24 | |
and you really see nature here involved in one of its eternal struggles. | 0:55:24 | 0:55:28 | |
-Mohammed? -It's going out. | 0:55:32 | 0:55:34 | |
There's one laying eggs. My colleague has given me sign. | 0:55:34 | 0:55:37 | |
Oh, right, OK. Yeah, we'll go, let's go. | 0:55:37 | 0:55:39 | |
GASPS | 0:55:42 | 0:55:43 | |
(My goodness, look at this.) | 0:55:43 | 0:55:46 | |
Ah! So she's actually laying the eggs right now, | 0:55:48 | 0:55:51 | |
right in front of us. | 0:55:51 | 0:55:53 | |
There goes another one. | 0:55:56 | 0:55:58 | |
She's just plopping out her eggs one by one. | 0:55:58 | 0:56:02 | |
They're, I suppose, the size of golf balls or ping-pong balls. | 0:56:02 | 0:56:07 | |
So she's totally focused on her birthing now, laying the eggs. | 0:56:11 | 0:56:16 | |
That's all she's thinking. She's not worried about us. | 0:56:16 | 0:56:18 | |
Oblivious to our presence once she starts laying, | 0:56:22 | 0:56:26 | |
she'll now bury around 100 eggs in the sand. | 0:56:26 | 0:56:29 | |
The turtles that hatch here | 0:56:38 | 0:56:39 | |
range for thousands of miles over the entire Indian Ocean. | 0:56:39 | 0:56:43 | |
But they'll always return to this beach to lay their eggs, | 0:56:43 | 0:56:46 | |
at one of the world's largest breeding sites, | 0:56:46 | 0:56:48 | |
close to the Tropic of Cancer. | 0:56:48 | 0:56:50 | |
It can take all night to dig the nest, | 0:56:52 | 0:56:54 | |
lay the eggs and then cover it all up again. | 0:56:54 | 0:56:56 | |
You can see even just from looking at them, | 0:56:56 | 0:56:59 | |
from their behaviour, | 0:56:59 | 0:57:01 | |
how utterly exhausting all this is. | 0:57:01 | 0:57:05 | |
They'll shift a bit of sand, then they'll rest. | 0:57:07 | 0:57:10 | |
They'll shift some more sand, then they'll rest. | 0:57:10 | 0:57:13 | |
And as one turtle was laying eggs, another's were hatching. | 0:57:15 | 0:57:19 | |
Oh, my goodness, look. | 0:57:19 | 0:57:21 | |
Oh, my goodness! | 0:57:21 | 0:57:23 | |
They're tiny little turtles. | 0:57:23 | 0:57:25 | |
Crazily flip-flapping to get out of the sand. | 0:57:25 | 0:57:29 | |
Ah, look at you. | 0:57:30 | 0:57:33 | |
Yes, yes, you're out, you're alive. | 0:57:33 | 0:57:36 | |
It was an inspiring moment as I witnessed the birth | 0:57:39 | 0:57:42 | |
of endangered turtles that find protection on this corner of the Arabian peninsula. | 0:57:42 | 0:57:47 | |
As she heads out to sea, I'm coming to the end | 0:57:52 | 0:57:55 | |
of another leg of my journey around the Tropic of Cancer. | 0:57:55 | 0:57:58 | |
I've travelled from the waters of the River Nile | 0:57:58 | 0:58:01 | |
to the edge of the Indian Ocean. | 0:58:01 | 0:58:03 | |
It's been a tough and quite exhausting trip | 0:58:03 | 0:58:06 | |
but nothing like what she has to go through. | 0:58:06 | 0:58:09 | |
I need to get some rest and some sleep | 0:58:09 | 0:58:11 | |
and then I'll be continuing the journey across India. | 0:58:11 | 0:58:15 | |
Next time, I witness a dramatic start to the tropical monsoon rains. | 0:58:19 | 0:58:24 | |
Oh, my God! Oh, my God! | 0:58:24 | 0:58:27 | |
I get to bath a national treasure. | 0:58:27 | 0:58:30 | |
Aah! | 0:58:30 | 0:58:31 | |
And I sample some of India's more exotic cuisine. | 0:58:31 | 0:58:34 | |
-So I've got to suck out the eye? -Yeah. | 0:58:34 | 0:58:37 |