Pennod 15 100 Lle


Pennod 15

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-In this programme,

-an engaging museum in Presteigne...

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-..an intricate rood screen

-in Llananno...

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-..neo-Gothic splendour in Trefeca...

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-..and The Pales as seen

-through Marian Delyth's lens.

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-But we begin near Llangorse,

-in the shadow of the Brecon Beacons.

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-This place epitomizes the spirit...

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-..of the book Wales: 100 Places

-To See Before You Die.

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-We're on Llangorse Lake, of course.

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-This is Wales's only crannog,

-inspired by the Irish tradition.

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-A crannog is an artificial island

-in shallow water...

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-..made up of brush,

-stone or timber mounds.

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-The islets were minor fortifications

-surrounded by water.

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-Gerald of Wales

-mentions the lake teeming with fish.

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-There are swans here too.

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-A contemporary of Dafydd ap Gwilym's

-dedicated a cywydd to them.

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-"Llangorse Lake

-has them in its possession."

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-Be careful of that swan.

-You're about to whack him or her.

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-Does that reconstruction resemble

-the crannog's original structure?

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-Yes, apparently so.

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-It was built in 2004...

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-..as an example of the buildings

-that would have been on the crannog.

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-The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle

-from AD 916...

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-..records that Ethelfleda...

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-..the daughter

-of Alfred the Great...

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-..brought an army here

-to capture the king and queen...

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-..from this very crannog.

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-Brycheiniog was left reeling.

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-The fact that this area

-is part of Deheubarth...

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-..is outlined in the memoirs

-of Gerald of Wales.

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-The birds of Llangorse Lake...

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-..were summoned

-to serenade the Earl of Hereford.

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-But they wouldn't sing for him,

-only to the heir of Deheubarth.

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-The fact the birds

-haven't sung for you today...

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-..reflects your ignobility!

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-What was the purpose

-of this collection of buildings?

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-Was it for religious instruction?

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-They are remarkable,

-built on the banks of the lake.

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-Llangasty Tal-y-llyn...

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-..is the creation

-of Robert Raikes from Hull.

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-While at university in Oxford...

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-..he was influenced

-by the Tractarian Movement.

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-Above all else,

-he wanted cohesion...

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-..between the act of worship

-and the process of studying.

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-So he erected this church

-and the schoolhouse next door.

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-We're in front of the altar...

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-..at St Gastyn's church.

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-It's a very noble building

-and far from ostentatious.

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-It's simple yet bold in colour.

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-Most churches in the vicinity...

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-..are rather drab in comparison.

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-It's a classic example

-of the neo-Gothic.

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-Its appearance is indicative...

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-..of 14th-century parish churches,

-when Catholicism reigned supreme.

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-It's not highbrow,

-but it is pretty and peaceful.

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-It's a symbol

-of Robert Raikes's desire...

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-..to introduce a thing of beauty

-and holiness to these parts.

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-We're in Llansantffraed graveyard

-in the Usk Valley.

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-It's one of my favourite places,

-partly because my wife is from here.

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-One of her ancestors is buried here.

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-I'm here to see the grave

-of my great-great-great-great...

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-..great-great-great-great-

-grandfather-in-law!

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-Here it is.

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-Henricus Vaughan, the Silurist.

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-He had a low opinion of himself.

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-"Servus inutilis"

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-That means an idle servant.

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-"Peccator maximus"

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-The biggest sinner

-lies buried here.

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-Glory. Forgiveness.

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-That's a nice epitaph.

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-Yes, it is.

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-He was one of the best poets

-of the 17th century.

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-He spoke Welsh

-but preferred to write in English.

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-He was related

-to the Vaughan family of Mercia.

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-I'm privileged to be related to him

-through marriage.

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-Presteigne is built

-on a tongue of land...

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-..that protrudes into England

-to the east of Offa's Dyke.

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-The town was reclaimed

-by Gruffudd ap Llywelyn.

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-It's nice to wander the streets

-of this prestigious town.

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-"The last post office in Wales."

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-"The first post office in Wales."

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-Hm!

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-The courthouse

-and Judge's Lodging...

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-..is Presteigne's

-most noble building.

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-But it's also a temple

-to the power of the law.

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-This building was erected

-in the centre of Presteigne in 1830.

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-It was a kind of one-stop shop.

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-There was a courtroom here...

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-..prison cells beneath the court...

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-..and a residence for the judge

-while he was in town.

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-It's what makes this museum

-so appealing.

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-It captures every aspect.

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-The success of this museum...

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-..is partly to do with the fact

-that you can touch everything.

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-I can open this cabinet

-and read the documents and books.

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-There are plenty to choose from.

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-Isn't that good?

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-This is the judge's sitting room.

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-This is where he'd come to relax...

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-..play the piano or peruse

-the plentiful reading matter.

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-He'd take his afternoon tea here.

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-He would have probably worn

-white gloves back then.

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-Presteigne cemetery

-has a strange memorial...

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-..to one of life's injustices.

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-Mary Morgan was executed

-for killing her own baby.

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-"Rous'd to a first sense of guilt

-and remorse...

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-"..by the eloquent

-and humane exertions...

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-"..of her benevolent Judge,

-Mr Justice Hardinge...

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-"..she underwent the Sentence of

-the Law with unfeigned repentance...

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-"..and a furvent hope of forgiveness

-from a redeeming intercessor."

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-She may have been

-brought to justice...

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-..but the locals felt

-that justice had failed her.

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-They laid this headstone

-at her feet.

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-She was only 17 years old.

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-"He that is without sin among you...

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-"..let him first

-cast a stone at her."

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-This is a reference

-to Mr Justice Hardinge.

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-It's remarkable to think

-that even in 1805...

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-..local people

-felt strongly enough...

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-..about the injustice

-of her situation...

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-..that they laid this stone.

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-.

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-I believe we're here to discuss

-The Pales, as it's called.

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-Yes, but I've always

-pronounced it 'palais'.

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-John explains that its name

-derives from palisade...

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-..referring to what was built

-around the meeting house.

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-Like many Quaker meeting places,

-it's in a remote location.

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-You get the impression they were

-looking for a quiet retreat...

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-..at the far end of the valley.

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-You become instantly aware

-of the solitude.

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-There's a tranquillity about it.

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-Regardless of a person's faith

-or lack of it...

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-..you can't help but feel moved...

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-..by the peaceful nature

-of the place.

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-How do you capture that tranquillity

-in a photograph?

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-I was captivated

-by the place itself.

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-I wouldn't say I was entranced...

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-..but I certainly felt

-in a heightened state.

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-I simply sat in the tranquillity.

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-I was conscious

-of the Quakers' philosophy.

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-It was presented to us...

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-..in Waldo's literature.

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-A copy of Paham Yr Wyf Yn Grynwr

-(Why I Am A Quaker)...

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-..can be found in the meeting house.

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-Marion Eames's novel, Y Stafell

-Ddirgel, also springs to mind...

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-..as does

-the television adaptation of it...

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-..which introduced

-the Quakers' philosophy...

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-..and their history in that area,

-to a wider audience.

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-I was also struck by minor details

-such as the collection box.

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-It was just a small item

-in a corner...

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-..but I decided to feature

-the photograph in the book.

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-I also thought about

-the Quakers' central philosophy...

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-..of the inner light.

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-I used daylight

-and the effect of that light...

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-..to create an atmosphere

-in the photographs.

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-I wanted people to be drawn there...

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-..so that they too could experience

-that peace and tranquillity.

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-Llananno church is between

-Llandrindod Wells and Newtown.

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-It's barely visible from the road.

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-But behind

-this unremarkable facade...

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-..is one of Wales's

-most beautiful treasures.

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-Glanmor Williams compares

-Llananno's rood screen...

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-..with the world's

-most precious jewellery.

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-It's as impressive as any

-of Dafydd ap Gwilym's cywyddau.

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-Although the woodcarvers' names

-are unknown...

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-..we know that they came from

-a school of carvers in Newtown.

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-The style is reminiscent

-of Celtic woodcraft.

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-The looped design

-runs from one end to the other.

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-If we look closely

-at the carvings...

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-..Jesus Christ, the apostles,

-the disciples and the prophets...

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-..are in keeping with the style

-of the 19th century...

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-..when the church was restored

-around this screen.

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-Holding up the parapet...

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-..is an example

-of 15th or 16th century carving.

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-It's of an amphisbaena.

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-That's a mythical

-two-headed serpent.

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-It's eating its way

-through the vine...

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-..the symbol of God and Christ.

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-The vine runs all the way

-to the other side...

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-..where there is

-a second amphisbaena.

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-It represents Satan,

-eating his way...

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-..through the sacred vine.

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-While I was standing outside, I said

-that the church was unremarkable...

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-..but what I meant was ordinary.

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-It's the interior

-that is unremarkable.

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-That is its charm.

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-It doesn't try to compete

-with this incredible screen.

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-It almost complements it.

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-One of the most prominent British

-poets wrote a poem about Llananno.

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-"So delicately

-does the light enter my soul...

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-"..from the serene presence

-that waits for me till I come next."

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-None other than RS Thomas.

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-It wasn't unusual

-to have to wait hours in Talgarth...

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-..for an enormous lorry

-to turn the corner, or not.

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-The arrival of a new bypass...

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-..has restored peace

-to this 14th-century tower house...

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-..and St Gwendoline's Church,

-of course.

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-Apart from St David's,

-I can't think of another place...

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-..from which so much influence

-has stemmed....

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-..in terms of the history

-of religion in Wales.

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-This is the birthplace

-of Calvinistic Methodism.

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-What kind of country

-would Wales be without it?

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-A very happy one, I'd imagine.

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-"You have botched our flesh,"

-wrote RS Thomas.

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-It's here that Howell Harris

-had his religious conversion.

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-So the story has it.

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-The vicar, Pryce Davies,

-was preaching.

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-It would have been

-Howell Harris's parish church.

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-He would have had

-his conversion inside.

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-He hadn't been ordained, so he

-couldn't preach in the churches.

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-However, he was allowed to preach

-in the open air.

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-It was in this graveyard in 1737...

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-..during a sermon

-by Howell Harris...

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-..that William Williams Pantycelyn

-was converted.

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-It was here that Harris

-and Williams's renown began.

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-"Near the altar

-lie the remains of Howell Harris.

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-"Having tasted grace,

-he resolved to declare to others...

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-"..what God had done for his soul.

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-"He was the first

-itinerant preacher of redemption...

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-"..in this period of revival

-in England and Wales.

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-"An indefatigable servant of God...

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-"..and faithful member

-of the Church of England."

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-It's entirely in English,

-apart from the ending.

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-"They that be wise shall shine as

-the brightness of the firmament...

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-"..and they that turn many

-to righteousness...

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-"..as the stars for ever and ever."

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-"Why did you spend all your days

-creating a large monastery...

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-"..when King Henry

-pulled more than a thousand down?"

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-That was William Williams

-Pantycelyn's view of Trefeca...

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-..the home of Howell Harris.

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-It's now a lay training centre.

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-By 1752, he had established

-some kind of monastery...

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-..or spiritual commune

-which he referred to as The Family.

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-Families lived

-under a strict regime.

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-Inscribed above the middle door...

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-..is the Methodist Revival's motto.

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-"The beginning of wisdom

-is the fear of the Lord."

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-The neo-Gothic period is considered

-to have begun in 1750...

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-..when Horace Walpole

-built Strawberry Hill.

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-Two years later, neo-Gothicism

-reached rural Brecknockshire.

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-We mustn't think of Howell Harris

-as a parochial fellow.

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-He was constantly

-back and forth to London.

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-He corresponded regularly.

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-He knew prominent figures.

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-Howell Harris's belongings are kept

-in a museum within the building.

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-Between his conversion in 1735

-and beginning The Family in 1752...

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-..he spent the entire time

-on preaching missions.

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-He drew a map of his journey.

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-Here in the centre

-is his home in Trefeca.

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-In the north,

-he visited Caernarfon and Bangor.

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-He went to Llangeitho and Tregaron

-in the west...

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-In the east was London,

-with Swansea and Neath in the south.

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-He travelled on horseback.

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-He would have been away

-for months on end.

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-I don't want to labour the point...

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-..but although this map

-is written in English...

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-..he would have preached in Welsh.

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-He could have preached in Welsh...

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-..but I doubt it would have been

-his first language.

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-Let's not let our thoughts

-on the language's prominence...

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-..cloud 18th-century minds.

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-All they were interested in

-was saving souls!

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-There's a quote in his diary.

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-"Last night,

-I had a temptation to laugh.

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-"I resisted it, of course."

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-People across the oceans...

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-..had heard about his fondness

-for his home in Trefeca.

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-In Nashville, Tennessee...

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-..there's an institute called

-the Trevecca Nazarene University.

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-They've heard about Trefeca

-even in Tennessee!

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-S4C Subtitles by Eirlys A Jones

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