Gwlad y Ceirw Wil ac Aeron

-*

-I'm Aeron Pughe

-and he's Wil Hendreseifion.

-We're farmers from Machynlleth

-and we're old friends.

-Hold tight. Off we go.

-We've shared adventures.

-Working together is the best way

-to test a friendship.

-Go around!

-So we're going to be

-a different type of shepherd.

-Not all that different, Aeron.

-Not all that different, Aeron.

-

-We're in the Arctic.

-There's snow everywhere.

-There's snow everywhere.

-

-There's no night.

-They speak Sami.

-We'll be moving deer 200 miles.

-Quite different, I'd say.

-You're right.

-It will be quite a trip.

-Day 1

-We've arrived in the village

-of Karasjok in Northern Norway.

-We're high up, Aeron.

-We're high up, Aeron.

-

-We are. We need warm clothes.

-We won't be walking.

-We have a skidoo.

-I don't know what cc it is.

-We asked what the speed limit is.

-They didn't say.

-They just told us to pull that

-to stop.

-I don't know if it stops immediately

-or gradually. We'll see.

-We're going to a concert

-on the top of a mountain.

-They sing something similar

-to Wales's cerdd dant.

-It's a celebration

-before moving the reindeer.

-I can see you joining in.

-I can see you joining in.

-

-Why?

-Everyone has to hear you sing.

-Aeron can sing, you know.

-We're ready to go.

-SKIDOO BLEEPS

-We'll try again.

-That's better.

-So long.

-Go on.

-Turn!

-Whoo hoo!

-2.5 hours and 90 miles later...

-SAMI MUSIC

-The Sami people have been

-herding reindeer for centuries.

-We've come

-to the middle of nowhere...

-..to learn more about

-these nomadic farmers' culture.

-SAMI MUSIC

-They're singing again.

-DIDGERIDOO-LIKE MUSIC

-I thought the didgeridoo

-was Aboriginal, from Australia.

-That's what it is.

-We're in Norway.

-I know.

-CHANTING IN SAMI

-Do you think there are words, or is

-he just making a spiritual sound?

-I don't know what to say.

-I'm as far north as I can go in

-the world. We're close to the top.

-These people have gathered

-in the middle of nowhere.

-It's very remote.

-There's nothing but snow for miles.

-But the Sami people get together

-here for a festival.

-From a 100-mile radius...

-..they've come

-just to have a chat and a few pints.

-They don't know us and we don't know

-them. We'd better meet the locals.

-What do you think

-we should say to people?

-If you meet girls, you can say,

-"chappat nieidamanna".

-Chappat nieidamanna.

-Chappat nieidamanna.

-

-It means beautiful girl.

-I've got a girlfriend at home,

-a fiancee, even.

-You have?

-I can't be chatting women up.

-This lady is a famous Sami singer.

-Like Dafydd Iwan for us.

-Ish.

-I've got one problem.

-Only coffee. They have no tea.

-Alright.

-Is it OK?

-It's no problem.

-Tok.

-Can you keep this all the time?

-You want me to keep this

-for you all the time?

-OK.

-I'll keep this

-for you all the time.

-I'm not sure what happened.

-That lady was going to sing next.

-I talked to her to find out more.

-She sent me off to get tea.

-She said, "Make sure it's tea".

-So I went.

-They didn't have tea. I said,

-"It's for the artiste, not me".

-I came back with coffee. Now I'm

-like her PA. I have to hold it.

-"Give it to me

-any time I need it."

-How many songs do you sing?

-Some songs.

-That's quite a few.

-Yes.

-What is song?

-In Sami language?

-It is named "joik".

-Joik?

-It's a good word, "joik".

-I've got a friend called Ioics.

-Oh, you have?

-Oh, you have?

-

-Similar.

-It's one of Europe's

-oldest music traditions.

-Joiking.

-Joiking.

-

-Joiking.

-Is it very difficult to master?

-Is it very difficult to master?

-

-Very difficult. You use your throat.

-# Aah! #

-Do the bit like that.

-# Aah! #

-# Aah! #

-# Aah! #

-BOTH HOLD LONG NOTE

-Very good. Thank you.

-I knew he'd find

-an opportunity to sing.

-Some people go home

-in the land with no night...

-..but it's early for us.

-..but it's early for us.

-

-Or late.

-What time is it?

-ROCK MUSIC

-Every spring,

-the wild reindeer's instinct...

-..draws it over 200 miles

-from the winter grazing lowlands...

-..over the mountains

-to the northern coast.

-They calve here

-on the summer pastures.

-The Sami people,

-and Wil and me for a while...

-..are going to herd reindeer

-on this amazing journey.

-Day 2

-Karasjok Village

-But first, we need

-one very important thing.

-What, sleep?

-What, sleep?

-

-Two things, then.

-I think there's a shop

-that sells knives in the village.

-There's a sign over there.

-We know they sell knives.

-OK. Let's have a look.

-OK. Let's have a look.

-

-We need a kind of Swiss Army knife.

-The knife is very important

-to the Sami.

-They notch reindeer's ears,

-cut trees...

-..and even eat and shave with it.

-The motto here is probably,

-"Without a knife, you have nothing".

-I've always liked knives.

-I used to collect them as a child.

-I have miniatures and pocket knives,

-but nothing as big as this.

-Look!

-1500 for them, for two.

-Champion.

-Right-o. Deal.

-Thank you.

-That was fun.

-We've bought two knives.

-They weren't cheap.

-They weren't cheap.

-

-No.

-How much did they cost?

-1,500 for two.

-You work it out.

-I'm going for a cuppa.

-They're 750 kroner each.

-That's...

-..it's about 100.

-100 for a knife!

-You get a case with your name on it.

-In case you get confused

-about whose it is.

-We've come to meet

-the Guttorm Graven family.

-They've herded reindeer

-from time immemorial.

-They'll be able to show us their

-craft. I hope we won't hinder them.

-Hello, how are you?

-Hello, how are you?

-

-Bures.

-Bures.

-My name's Anja.

-Aeron. Nice to meet you.

-Aeron. Nice to meet you.

-

-Yes.

-How are you, gentlemen?

-Hello. Nice to meet you.

-Everyone used to think that

-everyone's name here is Bures...

-..because we always say Bures.

-We don't say our name.

-Our culture is to say Bures.

-Bures.

-Bures.

-

-Bures.

-Maret.

-Maret.

-

-Maret? Wil.

-Bures.

-Aeron.

-Aeron.

-

-Maret.

-Nice to meet you.

-Are you busy preparing food?

-SPEAKS SAMI

-Fish!

-SPEAKS SAMI

-Grandma and grandpa.

-I think I understand.

-This is for the grandparents

-while you're away.

-Because I have got this

-from the mountains...

-..where we have the reindeer

-at summertime.

-We always take the first fish

-from there to our grandparents.

-Right. It's a family tradition.

-Because they used to live on this

-food and now they can't get it.

-We've just met the family.

-It's about 3.30pm.

-We got up early,

-ready to move the reindeer.

-But they don't start moving them

-until midnight.

-Which is odd.

-I like to sleep at midnight.

-But that's the time they like

-to move them. It's still light.

-The snow is hard,

-so the reindeer travel more easily.

-Arne is making a sledge.

-Aren't you?

-He'll be going soon

-so he's getting ready.

-He does it all himself.

-He welds the frame.

-That's a unique invention.

-What is that, an old hoover?

-It is from the old kitchen.

-Great!

-It blows air to create more heat.

-The migration

-is an important family occasion.

-They don't own land,

-so reindeer are their main asset.

-Successful migration

-is vital to everyone.

-LAUGHTER

-Despite the welcome

-and plenty of food...

-..once they hear

-that the reindeer are moving...

-..we go out into the cold.

-It's getting quite frantic now.

-Everyone's rushing around, putting

-skidoos and food on the trailers.

-They've had the phone call.

-They're off.

-We'll catch up with them soon,

-I think.

-Are we going?

-OK, we're going. "Vuolgit?"

-I can't see much.

-The windscreen froze

-while we were waiting.

-It's 3.30am.

-Apparently we'll wait for them

-to walk up the river over the ice.

-We're hurrying to the river crossing

-to watch the road...

-..and to make sure they go

-the right side of the mountain.

-After that, we'll be on skidoos.

-By late spring, hundreds

-of thousands of reindeer...

-..will have migrated north.

-This is the first day

-for this herd and for us too.

-.

-Subtitles

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

-We're in Norway. The reindeer

-are starting to migrate northwards.

-First, they must cross

-the frozen river and the road.

-It's lucky we have a handy sign.

-They're coming down the river.

-They're supposed to cross the road.

-This is where they expected them to

-cross. They've stopped the traffic.

-But they're drawing back

-because there's open water.

-We'll see.

-Melting ice can be dangerous...

-..when the reindeer's instinct

-draws them northwards.

-Slowly, slowly, catchee monkey.

-Slowly, slowly, catchee monkey.

-

-Or reindeer.

-It's not looking good.

-The reindeer have stopped.

-They've stopped in the river.

-The skidoos stayed back...

-..to give them a chance to cross.

-They might go now. Fingers crossed.

-There's nothing like seeing

-a pile of stock, no matter what...

-..move like that.

-..move like that.

-

-Very smart, fair play.

-They know where they are going.

-North, north, north.

-North!

-North!

-

-Always.

-After crossing the road,

-everything was under control.

-Watch your face!

-Watch out!

-Until the reindeer disappeared!

-An hour later...

-We've reached

-the top of these hills.

-We've found the reindeer at last.

-They're tired.

-They've settled here.

-I've never been

-in such a calm, quiet place.

-I've never seen

-a view like this before.

-It's breathtaking.

-It's so vast, it's amazing.

-There's nothing but snow,

-trees and wilderness.

-The reindeer are resting.

-They look happy.

-They'll carry on

-northwards tomorrow.

-We began at midnight.

-It's 6.00am now.

-The sun is shining.

-We haven't slept for...

-..how long?

-Er... yesterday morning.

-It must be twenty hours.

-It's more.

-It's more.

-

-Yes, it is.

-But there's no time to sleep.

-The reindeer are more important.

-The new knife has been put

-to immediate use.

-It has Aeron Pughe written on it.

-I think the world of this.

-I think the world of this.

-

-The reindeer doesn't eat the same.

-Is he struggling with the difference

-between silage and hay?

-This is very wet silage.

-It smells good, doesn't it?

-We're going to feed them a kind

-of silage. They call it hay.

-He's going to drive.

-We'll throw it out.

-It's a tough job.

-It's similar to what we do

-at home with sheep.

-If it snows, we scatter food

-so they have plenty to eat.

-This keeps them

-in one place to rest.

-They'll be ready to go again

-tonight.

-It's odd to see them so close up.

-The plan now is to put the tent up,

-have some breakfast and sleep.

-I'm almost dropping.

-The lavvu is up.

-The lavvu is up.

-

-Yes. I'm going to sleep for a week.

-Good night, Wil.

-Good night, Wil.

-

-It's morning, Aeron.

-3 hours later...

-Anita, another family member,

-has joined the journey.

-She wants to teach the children

-and us how to fish on ice.

-We might eat breakfast before night.

-We might eat breakfast before night.

-

-There is no night.

-You know what I mean.

-Off we go.

-Skidoo.

-I think I'll follow you.

-Don't go too fast!

-Aeron, get going.

-Hold tight. Off we go.

-Watch that stone.

-ENGINE SPLUTTERS

-Put your foot down.

-Go on.

-It's too deep.

-We've had a slight hitch.

-There's a lot of fresh snow here.

-It's deep.

-I made a basic mistake

-and tried to follow his track.

-Once the surface is broken,

-it's like powder.

-We almost tipped over.

-Problem!

-SPEAKS SAMI

-Yes, it was William's fault.

-Wait.

-Pull this.

-Pull this.

-

-OK.

-My goodness.

-These are like oven gloves.

-Watch him

-making me look like a fool!

-I feel a bit of a fool.

-I feel a bit of a fool.

-

-You look like a fool anyway.

-Oh!

-Hold tight.

-This is tiring!

-OK?

-Put your foot down!

-The Sami can read

-the landscape perfectly.

-There are hundreds of lakes

-hidden by a blanket of snow and ice.

-It sounds risky to me.

-How much do you weigh, Aeron?

-Even more weight.

-Back again.

-It's deep.

-Oh!

-SPEAKS SAMI

-What is it, sea-trout?

-It's trout, I think.

-That's the end of that.

-It's second nature to the children.

-This little girl is four.

-She's being taught to gut a fish...

-..and prepare it.

-I have one, I think.

-Oh!

-It was there!

-Damn!

-I had it.

-It was this big!

-Did you see that, William?

-I caught it.

-Where did I go wrong?

-I can hear the reindeer.

-I've been warned, if I hear

-the bells, to tell someone...

-..because they're moving.

-I feel that's my job now.

-I'm a bit worried. I think

-I heard a skidoo in the distance.

-Do you hear them?

-I can't wait any more. I want to see

-where the reindeer are.

-I don't want them to get away.

-I said I'd watch, so I'm going.

-Excuse me!

-This snow is serious!

-I'll try again.

-Oh!

-After all that struggle,

-it's another herd.

-I don't think they are our reindeer.

-This man

-is taking the reindeer to pasture...

-..like everyone else.

-Like all proud farmers,

-he wanted me to see the reindeer.

-I wasn't expecting to see these.

-I've been saying all day

-how quiet it is...

-..and that we haven't seen anyone.

-This is the largest herd

-we've seen so far.

-They don't like to say

-how many they have.

-I guessed between 900 to 1,000.

-He laughed at me.

-Look at the setting sun.

-The sky is glorious over there.

-The reindeer are here.

-It's the highlight of the trip

-so far for me.

-.

-Subtitles

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

-It's 3.00am.

-Everyone is sound asleep.

-I'm with Wil and Lemet

-and it's blooming cold!

-Are you cold?

-SPEAKS SAMI

-He's as hard as flint, he says.

-Can you joik?

-I have no voice to joik.

-I have no voice to joik.

-

-Let's have a joik.

-# Blue tit, blue tit

-# Little blue tit

-# Blue tit

-# Blue tit

-# Little blue tit #

-He's going to the caravan

-on the hill.

-He'll stay the night there

-and keep an eye on the reindeer.

-Day 4

-Good morning! Are you OK?

-I've just been to have a look

-at the reindeer.

-I was up in the night as well.

-No, not really! I've just got up.

-I slept for five hours, flat out.

-I needed it, I was so tired.

-I feel as if I've smoked

-ten packs of cigarettes...

-..in this smoke.

-I don't know where Aeron is.

-We've had a warm welcome

-and it's been fun.

-This is how we converse,

-through playing hide and seek.

-It's lovely to hear them laughing.

-Damn.

-One of their customs...

-..that they don't really stick to

-unless the elders are here...

-..is that the father or boss

-always sits there.

-The wife is this side, where I am.

-This is the kitchen

-and she's in charge here.

-No-one is allowed this side.

-I broke the rule and was told off

-in no uncertain terms!

-Good morning.

-Good morning.

-

-Good morning, Aeron.

-Are you OK? It's warm here.

-Are you cooking?

-Where's my sandwich?

-I've lost my sandwich!

-Damn!

-It's OK.

-There's a ten-second rule

-in this house!

-Is reindeer hair healthy?

-It sticks things together.

-It's better now.

-I'm amazed how

-they share everything with us.

-Wil and I

-are like part of the family.

-They don't regard us as strangers.

-We're eating their food.

-We can have what we want. They're

-teaching us everything they know.

-I might not go home. I'm happy here.

-Arne and Maret have come to move

-the reindeer to northern pastures.

-Three generations

-and centuries of experience.

-Wil and I are beginning

-to settle in.

-I went to get my coat and I

-mentioned how bright the snow is.

-Years ago, they rubbed charcoal

-under their eyes.

-I'm not trying to imitate

-an American footballer.

-Look at you.

-Good grief.

-Oh!

-Psst!

-Doesn't he look like a clown?

-You said it.

-What have you got?

-Aeron and Wil!

-It's our sledge.

-Thank you.

-I'll have a hug, too.

-Thank you.

-I'm chuffed about that.

-You like it?

-You like it?

-

-Very much.

-It'll be here forever.

-Fair play! Isn't that nice?

-Yes, Aeron.

-There's no time to be emotional.

-We need to check the reindeer

-and prove our worth as herders.

-We're never far from reindeer.

-The camp is in the background.

-The reindeer are on the ridge

-behind us.

-We don't want to get too close

-or they'd get annoyed.

-We're keeping an eye from afar.

-Our role today

-is to look for reindeer.

-One or two keep wandering off

-in search of food.

-We've found footprints.

-Only a few have wandered off.

-This is where the reindeer

-were eating yesterday.

-To you and me,

-snow is white and cold.

-There's not much more

-to say about it.

-The Sami people

-have over 100 words for snow.

-Yesterday,

-the snow was frozen solid.

-The reindeer

-couldn't get through it.

-The snow rots lower down.

-There's a word for the snow

-that's below that layer, too.

-It's the best snow

-to melt for water.

-The snow is different again today.

-It seems some of the reindeer

-have wandered off.

-We'd better tell the camp.

-We're so good!

-The bell was ringing.

-Ding-ding up north.

-Towards the north.

-We'd better go.

-Off we go.

-It's great to see everyone

-working as a team.

-Luckily for me,

-I had Wil to tell me what to do...

-..every minute, without fail.

-More have escaped than I thought.

-There's nothing back there.

-Let's go around there.

-We need to take it slowly with them.

-We only have one bike.

-They're moving. They're not

-used to seeing people walking.

-Go around that way.

-The professionals are relying on

-Aeron and me to push them forward.

-Aeron hasn't quite understood

-where they should go.

-He's taken them the wrong way

-so I jumped off to run.

-But it's hopeless

-to run on the snow. Aeron, Aeron!

-Go back. Aeron!

-He's not listening. Aeron!

-Aeron, go around!

-Don't shout at me!

-Go around!

-Give me strength!

-I don't think he has a GPS.

-You're ordering me around.

-Skidoo on rocks?!

-Do you want a ride?

-Do you want a ride?

-

-I can't work with monkeys!

-Don't stand there like a grouse.

-Watch the stones.

-The reindeer began to move

-so we took a short cut.

-LAUGHTER

-Clown!

-Throw it down!

-BLEEP

-Pull there.

-BLEEP

-ENGINE REVS

-BLEEP

-Aeron made a fatal mistake.

-He bottled it halfway up.

-If in doubt, give it a clout.

-He needed to hit the throttle

-and not go across.

-How does he survive at home

-on a four-wheeler?

-So I left him to walk back.

-Thanks for the lift, William.

-Thanks for the lift, William.

-

-Sorry, Aeron.

-It's alright.

-That's over.

-A pantomime if ever there was one.

-A pantomime if ever there was one.

-

-Where are the reindeer?

-.

-Subtitles

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

-Day 6

-Cearru Mountains

-We've had more to do

-as the week goes by.

-We hope they'll trust us

-on our own today.

-They might let us go

-to prove that we've shown enough...

-..what's the word?

-..what's the word?

-

-Talent.

-Yes, talent. Well done, William,

-so early in the morning.

-I'm quite confident I can do it.

-It's not unlike

-moving sheep or cattle.

-But it's a question

-of where to move them.

-Everything looks the same. There

-are no fields or mountain pastures.

-That area over there

-isn't always so easy to reach.

-It's far away.

-Mmm.

-It's our turn

-to look after the reindeer.

-The snow is thick

-in the next valley.

-The reindeer must stay here

-until tonight when the snow hardens.

-We're taking silage out to keep

-them quiet. But what have we done?

-We went straight into the wind

-and frightened the reindeer. Oops.

-Disaster.

-BLEEP

-We spooked the reindeer.

-It's alright.

-I hope they'll come to get the food.

-I don't like it

-when things go wrong.

-I have a bad feeling about this.

-I can't hear the reindeer.

-Damn it!

-BELLS

-As the proverb goes,

-every cloud has a reindeer.

-Are you sure that's what they say?

-Are you sure that's what they say?

-

-Yes, I think so.

-It almost went horribly wrong.

-It turned out alright.

-Patience, that's all it takes.

-Once the sheep at home hear bikes,

-they almost jump on us for food.

-These are wilder.

-We have to use common sense...

-..take the right line

-and not confront them.

-I've learnt about reindeers.

-The Sami people know about the

-little things that simplify the job.

-This moss that grows on rocks

-is like sweets to the reindeer.

-They've bought this in. Someone

-has been busy collecting it.

-I'll see if I can get

-the cheeky one to come closer.

-She's a cheeky little thing!

-It's amazing she's so close.

-She's only a few metres away.

-She seems comfortable around us.

-The weather has turned cold again.

-The reindeer are ready for the next

-phase of their long journey north.

-We'll follow them.

-The Last Day

-Arne, you showed me

-how to make things with a knife.

-I've made this for you.

-A for Aeron and A for Arne.

-I hope you like it.

-SPEAKS SAMI

-We're having a farewell breakfast

-on our last day.

-I have mixed feelings about it.

-I love it out here.

-We've had good weather.

-I feel bad leaving.

-It's not easy here.

-We think our lambing season is hard.

-We lose lambs.

-The percentage of calves

-they get is 20 or 30%.

-That's not good.

-Not only do they work here

-all hours...

-..they have jobs

-and businesses to run.

-They sink all their money

-to keep the tradition going.

-Is that for me?

-Look at that!

-Aeron is written on mine.

-Aeron is written on mine.

-

-And Wil on mine!

-Thank you.

-The tradition is that we should not

-give away a knife.

-This is not a gift, this is payment

-for the work you have been doing.

-It's bad luck to give a knife

-so we're not giving it as a gift.

-We'd do it for nothing,

-but thank you.

-What does this mean?

-It is a Sami proverb...

-..and means better to be on the move

-than to stand still.

-Why would you do such a thing?

-Thank you.

-You will be real Samis when you go.

-It's time for the family to move on.

-But unfortunately,

-we have to say goodbye.

-This is where they're happiest.

-We met them in their homes.

-It's a centuries-old tradition.

-They don't know how old.

-This is their way of life.

-Who are we to change things?

-Us or anyone else.

-When I tell people about this,

-they'll think I'm romanticizing.

-Until you come to a place like this

-you can't appreciate it.

-We've had

-the opportunity of a lifetime.

-It'll stay in my heart forever.

-I've met people all over the world

-and I always make friends.

-There are friends

-I won't see again...

-..except in my memory.

-It's a handy tool.

-We've accomplished

-everything we wanted to do.

-It's the end of the journey for us,

-but just the start for the reindeer.

-Back to dear old Wales.

-I'm looking forward to walking

-on solid ground. That's a fact.

-I've had enough of the snow.

-You could have frostbite here.

-My socks are wet

-and my shoe has just come off.

-Oh!

-I'm sure the Sami

-have a way of doing it.

-Subtitles by Gwead

-.