Patagonia Eric Jones ac Ioan Doyle

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-This is the tower of volcanic rock

-called Piedra Parada.

-It stands at nearly 1,000 feet

-above the desert...

-..in Patagonia, South America.

-In 2014, two climbers from Wales

-came here...

-..Eric Jones and Ioan Doyle.

-One of their ambitions

-was to climb this tower.

-Eric Jones from Tremadog...

-..was one of the greatest climbers

-of his generation.

-He made his name in the Alps,

-the Himalayas and Patagonia.

-Ioan Doyle from Bethesda

-has the mountains in his blood.

-He's a farmer and is one of

-Britain's best young climbers.

-The age gap between them

-stretches to over half a century.

-This film celebrates

-the relationship between two men...

-..two countries and one journey.

-There's an exceptional atmosphere

-in the mountains.

-I feel I'm in a place

-where I'm happy.

-Some people say they've conquered

-a climb or conquered a mountain.

-You will never conquer a mountain.

-Eric Jones and Tremadog...

-..formed the starting point

-of my climbing career.

-I've known Ioan for eight years.

-He came to the cafe...

-..as a 15-year-old boy.

-He's now quite a famous climber

-in Wales and in England.

-He's a likeable boy

-who's happy to help others.

-He's so warm.

-He's like a warm blanket around me.

-He fills me with confidence...

-..and he makes me feel happy

-about what I'm doing.

-He says he's not a climber who farms

-but a farmer who climbs.

-He's an old head

-on a strong, young body.

-When a maestro like him praises you

-and tells you you're doing well...

-..it fills you with pride.

-I never imagined

-I'd go climbing with him.

-This is Eric Jones's cafe...

-..in Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog,

-North Wales.

-Climbers come here...

-..to rest, eat and share stories.

-A haven of memories is this

-Pictures on the walls

-A museum of a lifetime of adventure

-The story begins and ends here.

-And somewhere,

-between the when and why

-We'll go walking everywhere.

-ARGENTINA

-Being in Patagonia

-feels like a dream.

-I've heard a lot about this place.

-I think every Welshman

-feels drawn to come here.

-How is it for you, Eric?

-I feel the same as you.

-I've been here four times now,

-many years ago.

-It was a dream for me to come here,

-just like you.

-I heard about it when I was a boy

-through R Bryn Williams's stories.

-He'd lived in Patagonia...

-..and I listened to his radio plays

-about the place when I was young.

-Patagonia seemed like a magical,

-faraway land to me.

-Years later, I heard that Patagonia

-was a great place to go climbing.

-Do you call pine cones 'moch coed'?

-Do you call pine cones 'moch coed'?

-

-Yes.

-Wild boar have been digging here.

-When I was a boy,

-I went on holiday to Cynwyd...

-..and we pretended

-that pine cones were sheep.

-Really?

-Yes, and we'd put them

-in a sledge...

-Eric is a famous solo climber.

-He's used to climbing on his own...

-..but I'm here to keep him company

-on this trip to Patagonia.

-This climb was a rehearsal

-for the big one.

-Here, in Valle Encantado, I would

-climb with Eric for the first time.

-Valle Encantado - Enchanted Valley.

-Alright, Eric? Off we go.

-The first section looks steep.

-It's no problem for you.

-It's no problem for you.

-

-I'm not so sure.

-It's hot in the sun.

-It's hot in the sun.

-

-Yes, really hot.

-It's a nice rock.

-I wish it were an easy climb

-so I could enjoy the view.

-We don't do things like that.

-Maybe when we reach the top.

-Is it quite solid?

-Well, it's kind of solid.

-You need to be careful?

-You need to be careful?

-

-Yes.

-It hasn't been climbed a lot.

-It looks quite steep now.

-When I climb, it has nothing to do

-with adventure...

-..or the country I'm in.

-It's all about the grade.

-It's all about the grade.

-

-Yes, I see.

-I haven't given a thought

-to how people live in those places.

-That's not a good thing, you know.

-During my travels, I've delighted

-in meeting local people...

-..and the view

-is all-important for me.

-That's why I've never enjoyed

-indoor climbing on walls.

-This is part of it.

-It goes beyond climbing.

-Yes, of course.

-It looks pretty good.

-Yes, but it's fragile in places.

-Something tells me

-you've climbed before.

-Yes - once or twice!

-How's it going, Eric?

-Are you alright?

-It's usually a good sign when

-your climbing partner is silent.

-I'm there now.

-OK. I've got you.

-Your hands probably don't bleed.

-They're hardened.

-They're hardened.

-

-They bleed sometimes.

-They can get jammed.

-You get plenty of training

-with your sheep.

-Yes, and your hands go hard

-when you climb a lot.

-When I was on the farm as a lad,

-my hands were hard.

-Like leather.

-I wash dishes in the cafe

-these days, so they're soft!

-How is it for you, Eric?

-How's your foot?

-A couple of months ago,

-I didn't think I'd be able to climb.

-I thought if my foot was bad,

-I could just hold the rope for you.

-It's not too bad.

-It's quite painful now,

-after climbing...

-..but it was fine during the climb.

-I'm sure you've experienced it too.

-If you're in pain and you get to

-a difficult section...

-..adrenaline takes away the pain.

-Once you reach the top,

-the pain kicks in again.

-I knew a young, strong lad

-was holding the rope.

-It's like the master

-and the apprentice.

-I wouldn't say that.

-I've never been a master and

-I wouldn't call you an apprentice.

-Looking at what I know

-about your life story...

-..I'd have to say it's incredible.

-I really do look up to you.

-Do you often think about

-what you've done over the years...

-..or do you tend to look forward?

-I look forward

-because yesterday's gone.

-Only today and tomorrow

-are important.

-But, looking back,

-I've been fortunate...

-..to do what I've done in

-the climbing and parachuting world.

-It's been a life

-that's full of adventure...

-..but I've also enjoyed

-a lot of luck.

-You need luck when you do this,

-as you know yourself.

-Absolutely.

-Some things are dangerous and

-you need to have luck on your side.

-Where did the drive

-to climb the Eiger come from?

-I think it was always part of me.

-Al Alvarez has written a book...

-..called Feeding The Rat.

-It's the story of a climber

-who had a rat living in his body.

-The only thing

-which could satisfy this rat...

-..was feeding it with a big dose

-of fear or adrenaline.

-This climber had to go out

-and climb something.

-When he'd completed a climb, the rat

-would be satisfied for a while...

-..but it would soon wake up

-and demand more adrenaline.

-I'm sure that rat

-lives within me too.

-I've always had that urge

-to do something else.

-I climbed the Eiger

-with some friends in 1970.

-After that,

-I did a lot of solo climbing.

-It felt natural for me to attempt

-a solo ascent of the Eiger.

-This is the biggest climbing wall

-in the Alps.

-It was climbed for the first time

-in 1938.

-The north face is 9,000 feet high.

-Seven solo climbers attempted

-to scale the north face before Eric.

-Four of them lost their lives.

-Eric succeeded in 1981 and his

-ascent was filmed by Leo Dickinson.

-The ascent went quite well...

-..until I reached half way

-and I came across The Ice Bulge.

-I looked at it and I couldn't see

-a way to climb it.

-I thought

-it was beyond my capabilities.

-When those thoughts

-were going through my head...

-..a serene calmness washed over me.

-I knew I could climb

-this 20 foot piece of ice.

-I still can't explain

-how I climbed it.

-How did it feel to defeat that

-north face and reach the summit?

-It was a wonderful feeling.

-I was lucky enough to do it

-without any accidents...

-..and to have reasonably

-good weather for the ascent.

-I'd dreamed about that climb

-for years.

-I thought I'd be a totally happy man

-once I'd reached the summit...

-..and I'd never want to attempt

-another ascent.

-But a couple of days after

-I'd come back down to the valley...

-..I felt really low.

-I'd dreamed about that climb

-for so long...

-..but I was left

-with an empty feeling.

-A couple of months later, I was

-dreaming about a different summit.

-That's how it's been all my life.

-I always look towards the horizon

-and to what lies beyond it.

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-It's wonderful.

-It's wonderful.

-

-Lovely, Eric.

-It's better than walking.

-It's better than walking.

-

-Yes.

-Walking is more of a struggle

-than this.

-There we are.

-Thank you, Ioan. Great.

-Thank you, Ioan. Great.

-

-No problem.

-It was a nice grade for me.

-We're lucky to be able to

-travel the world and climb...

-..and to make some good friends

-along the way.

-But you lose friends too.

-But you lose friends too.

-

-Yes.

-I've lost several friends

-in the mountains.

-You feel very sad

-when you lose someone.

-At those times, I've thought that

-climbing isn't worth anyone's life.

-But you soon forget.

-That urge to climb and to go

-to the mountains is so strong...

-..you go again, subconsciously

-thinking, "It won't happen to me."

-That's my way of getting over it.

-Are you religious, Eric?

-No, not any more.

-I was raised to be religious.

-I went to chapel

-three times every Sunday.

-I've changed my mind.

-When the light is extinguished,

-that's the end.

-During our trip to Patagonia...

-..Eric was keen to head into the

-Andes, to the town of El Chalten...

-..not to climb

-but on a pilgrimage...

-..to see two glorious mountains -

-Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy.

-I'd see them for the first time.

-Eric wanted to see them

-one last time.

-Do you know the story of Fitz Roy?

-Do you know the story of Fitz Roy?

-

-No, not at all.

-It was named after Captain FitzRoy,

-who captained the ship...

-..which carried Charles Darwin

-down the coast to the west.

-Mount Fitz Roy was first climbed

-by an expedition from France.

-Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone.

-On the way in, one of the climbers

-whose name was Jacques Poincenot...

-..drowned in one of these rivers.

-Do you see the spire

-to the left of Fitz Roy?

-They decided to call it

-Aguja Poincenot...

-..in his memory.

-I'm really looking forward to

-going up there and seeing it again.

-It brings back lots of memories.

-I can tell you a string of lies!

-El Chalten

-is Patagonia's climbing centre.

-The Andean equivalent of Llanberis.

-It's the playground

-of the world's best climbers.

-When Eric and Leo Dickinson

-came here during the 1970s...

-..it was a remote wilderness,

-unlike what you see here today.

-After reaching El Chalten, Eric

-wanted to walk to Laguna Torre...

-..which lies below the mountains.

-We would then

-camp by the lake overnight.

-Where are we now, Eric?

-Where are we now, Eric?

-

-We're half way to the lake.

-We have another two hours to go.

-This is the first time

-you see the valley open out...

-..and you see the panorama

-of Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy.

-On a clear day, it's breathtaking

-and your step quickens.

-Do you see the mountain on the left?

-That beautiful peak

-is called Cerro Solo.

-Solo, because it's on its own?

-Solo, because it's on its own?

-

-Yes, and it's fairly easy to climb.

-I climbed it solo

-during a previous visit.

-It was no problem.

-Just like going up Mount Tryfan.

-But on my descent,

-a condor took a shine to me.

-It was waiting for you to die!

-It must have decided I was too old

-and too tough to eat!

-It left me alone.

-Are you looking forward

-to camping out?

-Yes. It'll be great.

-Yes. It'll be great.

-

-Yes, under the glacier.

-One of the reasons we love to climb

-is being in the middle of nowhere...

-..at one with nature.

-How does it feel to be back, Eric?

-Memories of being here for weeks

-in 1974 are flooding back.

-I'm sure this place

-has changed a lot since then.

-Not really.

-There were no tents here, of course,

-other than our camp.

-I enjoyed walking here.

-You'd gone ahead of me,

-so I walked on my own...

-..reminiscing as I went.

-Suddenly, a strange feeling

-washed over me.

-A feeling of deep sadness.

-I looked up at Cerro Solo,

-where I'd enjoyed an incredible day.

-I thought to myself,

-"I'll never climb that peak again."

-I understand.

-No offence to you,

-but I enjoyed the seclusion.

-Absolutely.

-I've climbed solo over the years...

-..and I enjoyed walking

-through the trees on my own.

-When I walked into this camp,

-my spirit soared...

-..because I'm actually here,

-after all these years.

-I can't wait

-to get up that glacier tomorrow.

-Neither can I.

-Are you tired?

-Yes, but I'm not too bad.

-My feet hurt.

-It's a sign of old age.

-Shall we have a song before bed?

-Take it away, Eric!

-# Lord, night is closing in #

-I'm not religious, you know!

-# Goodnight, friends

-# Goodnight, friends

-# Goodnight, friends

-# To bed I go now #

-How was that? Give me a clap!

-IOAN CLAPS

-Very good, Eric!

-I'm bound to sleep soundly

-after that!

-The thing that's affecting you now

-is your health.

-Your legs and so on.

-Yes, but I've been very fortunate

-all through the years.

-I've never had serious injuries.

-I had frostbite on two occasions

-but nothing else worth mentioning.

-It's great to look back

-on my achievements...

-..but I've also failed

-at many things.

-It's only natural.

-You can't win them all.

-No, you can't.

-It's wonderful to be here

-at the age of 77.

-Between my four trips here...

-..I must have spent

-two or three months here.

-Ioan, what awful weather!

-Yes. I want to go back down now!

-I looked forward to bringing

-you here to see the mountains.

-Cerro Torre is over there somewhere!

-We saw it from the valley,

-so I know where it is.

-I've been here

-in worse weather than this...

-..but I've also been here

-when the weather was glorious.

-Our camp was across the lake

-when we went up Cerro Torre.

-I first came here in 1971 and we

-came within 800 feet of the summit.

-We had bad weather,

-so we came down.

-Two years later,

-we attempted to climb Torre Egger.

-We were the first team

-to attempt to climb Torre Egger.

-We went up the wrong way.

-It was dangerous,

-so we came back down.

-The following year,

-Leo, Mick Coffey and I came here...

-..and we climbed the ice cap

-which is behind Torre.

-It stretches on, into Chile.

-We went on a very long,

-50-day expedition on the ice...

-..and we climbed two volcanoes.

-Cerro Lautaro,

-which is 12,000 feet...

-..and ten miles west,

-we came across another volcano.

-It wasn't named on the map.

-Any ideas what we might call it?

-It would be nice

-to call it Cerro Mimosa.

-Mimosa?

-Mimosa was the name of the ship...

-..that brought the Welsh pioneers

-to Patagonia in 1865.

-That's a good idea.

-That's a good idea.

-

-Yes, I think it's good.

-The Welsh settlement in Patagonia...

-..is the largest British settlement

-in Argentina.

-That's a really good idea.

-We were about to turn around,

-then it showed itself to us!

-We're very fortunate.

-You're seeing it in all its glory.

-This is the highlight of the trip

-for me.

-We went up the ice cap, then left.

-Can you see the area of snow

-up there?

-That's where our ice cave was.

-Just before you set off

-on the final ridge.

-We had an ice cave there

-and at one time, when a storm hit...

-..I was in it for six days

-without coming out.

-I never imagined that, 20 years

-later, I'd return in a helicopter...

-..and jump here.

-I was working on the

-Warren Herzog film, Scream Of Stone.

-I did two jumps

-down that steep face.

-It's a 7,000 foot drop.

-I landed on the glacier

-in the valley.

-Wow! This place is incredible.

-It holds lots of memories for me.

-You may make some memories here.

-Yes, I hope so.

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-One of the big things

-with what we do...

-..is the fear you experience.

-Yes, and I experienced real fear...

-..on my first

-major solo ascent in the Alps.

-I was climbing Bonatti Pillar

-on the Dru, Chamonix.

-I'd gone up two thirds of the way...

-..when I came across

-a sheer section.

-There was nothing to grip.

-There was a piton in place

-around six feet up...

-..so I attached a fifi hook

-to the piton ring...

-..and I climbed up a small ladder.

-I climbed up.

-The fifi hook I used...

-..is designed to release itself

-from the piton ring...

-..as you climb past it.

-I fell when I was above the hook

-and I landed on a ledge.

-I'd lost my balance...

-..and I felt as though

-I was about to fall off the edge.

-I thought I was about to die.

-I'd have fallen 2,000 feet

-and hit the ground.

-Suddenly, the cord is pulled tight.

-For some reason, the fifi hook

-was still attached to the piton.

-I've tried to recreate that moment

-time after time...

-..but every time,

-the cord pulls the fifi out.

-I have no idea why it stayed there.

-The angle may have made it catch

-on the side of the rock.

-It really was

-a million to one chance.

-Sometimes, you do look back.

-If I'm lying in bed

-and I can't sleep...

-..my mind goes back to that day

-and I break out in a sweat!

-I came so close to death that day.

-But that's life.

-There's a risk in everything.

-# I saw her among the flowers

-# At the break of day

-# Cheeks the colour of roses

-# At the break of day

-# A smile as bright

-as morning sunshine

-# As beautiful as a lark

-# She sang a joyful song

-# At the break of day #

-We couldn't visit Patagonia without

-going to meet a few Welsh speakers.

-Eric had already been to Trelew,

-in the east...

-..but he'd never been to Esquel,

-in the west.

-Eric took a train ride

-to Nahuel Pan.

-Eric Green, the farmer,

-kept him company...

-..as he took a break

-from the mountains.

-I went to Trevelin

-to meet the gaucho, Alejandro Jones.

-We got a real taste of the place.

-An old, romantic train

-and Welsh gauchos.

-A whistle-stop tour for both of us.

-SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

-How big is your farm?

-200 hectares.

-I work on my two sisters' farm too.

-I'm a farmer's son.

-We had a small farm.

-Around 100 acres.

-We kept cattle, hens, pigs

-and sheep in the winter.

-The sheep came down

-from the mountains in the winter.

-Do you keep cattle?

-Do you keep cattle?

-

-Yes.

-Most farmers in the Andes

-farm cattle.

-It's too wet here in the winter

-for sheep.

-The heavy rain we have here

-is too much for them.

-Have you been to Wales?

-Yes, I spent a year in Llangernyw.

-I went to Llysfasi College

-one day a week.

-Did you learn a lot in Wales?

-Yes, and I enjoyed

-my fantastic year there.

-Did you miss Patagonia

-when you were away?

-Yes.

-I'm the same.

-I enjoy going away...

-..but I always enjoy

-going back home too.

-I've heard about the history...

-..and distant relatives of mine

-live in Trelew.

-But I hadn't realized

-just how Welsh this area really is.

-The Welsh language

-has become stronger...

-..since teachers from Wales

-came here.

-It's very nice.

-You grew up with the Welsh language.

-You grew up with the Welsh language.

-

-Yes, I come from a Welsh family.

-Dad and Mam are Welsh

-and they can both speak Welsh.

-I speak Welsh to Mam.

-I speak Welsh to Mam.

-

-You speak Welsh every day?

-Yes, and Dad won't reply in Welsh.

-I speak Welsh to him

-and he understands.

-He doesn't speak

-much Spanish either!

-He doesn't say much.

-I see.

-I was looking at the mountain

-in front of you.

-What's its name?

-What's its name?

-

-Cerro Conico.

-Yes.

-It looks similar to a mountain

-back home called Cnicht.

-Cnicht?

-Cnicht?

-

-Yes, in Croesor.

-But it has no ice cream topping!

-I can't get over these mountains.

-They're amazing.

-Our mountains are

-very close to my heart, of course...

-..but seeing big mountains

-with snowy peaks is incredible.

-It's a really special place to live

-and farming is really nice work.

-Yes. I feel exactly the same.

-Farming is in your blood.

-Yes - I can't imagine

-doing anything else.

-That's great.

-It's nice to meet you.

-Eric is doing a tour

-looking back at his life...

-..and he'll share some stories

-with us.

-Welcome, Eric.

-APPLAUSE

-Thank you. Good evening.

-I'd known about Patagonia

-since I was a boy.

-When I started to climb,

-it took on a new meaning.

-I saw it as a place

-with incredible mountains.

-This is a picture

-of Los Glacieres National Park.

-SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

-When I returned to Wales,

-I received some terrible news.

-Gordon, my friend,

-had terminal lung cancer.

-He passed away two months later.

-He had a ten-year-old son.

-Excuse me.

-That changed my attitude to life.

-It hit home

-that there were no guarantees...

-..and I decided to try to live

-each day as though it were my last.

-Just before you jump out of a plane

-and you stand at the door...

-..the adrenaline

-rushes through your body.

-But once you're out in the air,

-you relax...

-..and you plummet like a bird.

-BASE jumping is totally different.

-It's far more dangerous.

-When you step off,

-for the first second or two...

-..there's nothing,

-as though you're in a vacuum.

-It's an incredible feeling.

-I was lucky to meet Moe Viletto,

-a BASE jumping pioneer.

-Had I not met him, I don't think

-I'd have done any BASE jumping.

-I owe Moe a huge debt.

-His body must be pretty special.

-He must be like a cat

-to get up those mountains.

-Oh, incredible!

-I can't believe he can do that.

-I can't believe anyone can.

-Imagine coming down so quickly

-among those rocks!

-I held my breath.

-It was incredible.

-Very good. I really enjoyed it.

-It's hard to believe

-what he's ventured to do.

-He told us he wasn't frightened...

-..when he was up there,

-facing danger.

-He also said he couldn't sleep...

-..when he thought about

-what faced him the next day.

-It was very interesting.

-There's something special

-inside him.

-He's fighting fit

-and he's light on his feet.

-His head is totally fine.

-Wonderful. Just wonderful.

-What a man!

-A real Welsh hero.

-I've always been fond of cats.

-There were always cats on the farm

-when I was a boy.

-But my home on the farm

-was similar to my home now...

-..in that the house

-was on the roadside.

-Our poor cats would be killed.

-I remember when I was seven

-or eight years old, we had a cat...

-..and it would come and lick my neck

-when I got home from school.

-I was really fond of that cat.

-I came home from school one day...

-..and Mam told me the cat

-had been killed on the road.

-I was heartbroken.

-Jess has been with us

-for several years.

-He's been hit by cars once or twice

-but he's still alive.

-He's quite wise

-when it comes to crossing the road.

-He looks both ways

-before he crosses!

-Isn't that right, Jess?

-Eh, Jess?

-You're a good cat, aren't you?

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-You've seen many different things

-in your life...

-..as you've travelled the world.

-You make cups of tea here...

-..and you also brewed up

-on South Col, Mount Everest.

-Yes, I made tea for Reinhold Messner

-and Peter Habeler...

-..after their ascent of Everest

-without oxygen.

-I had the opportunity to go

-on that trip with Leo Dickinson...

-..to film Messner and Habeler

-do that historic ascent.

-You were there to work?

-You were there to work?

-

-Yes, as a cameraman.

-I harboured a hope

-at the back of my mind...

-..that I could

-go for the summit myself.

-Unfortunately, I got frostbite

-in my toes on the Col...

-..so I decided to turn back.

-Looking back,

-I wonder what would have happened...

-..if I'd gone for the summit.

-It would've been nice

-to reach the summit...

-..but climbing in the Himalayas

-was never my ambition.

-I wouldn't have gone there if

-I wasn't filming with Leo Dickinson.

-I don't regret

-not reaching the summit...

-..because I enjoyed climbing

-in the Alps and in Britain.

-That was my passion.

-Rini, you have a great hotel here.

-Your breakfast is excellent.

-It's quite comfortable.

-I came to the east years ago, when

-I travelled to southern Patagonia...

-..so I'm familiar with Trelew

-and Gaiman.

-I've never been to this area before

-but I've heard a lot about it.

-I thought I'd heard

-that you'd been climbing here...

-..but having discussed it

-with several people...

-..we came to the conclusion that

-Eric Jones hadn't been to Esquel.

-This is your first time.

-This is your first time.

-

-Yes, but friends of mine have been.

-What do you think of this area?

-What do you think of this area?

-

-It's lovely.

-I'd heard that it was

-more beautiful than Trelew.

-There are more trees

-and more greenery here.

-Yes, up in the mountains.

-I had a shock when I stepped out

-of the car last night...

-..and I heard you speaking Welsh

-so perfectly.

-I had to remind myself where I was!

-Do you now Bob Pugh?

-He's a teacher from Brecon.

-He's a climbing instructor.

-He's been to Piedra Parada,

-where you're going today.

-Have you been there yourself?

-Yes, I've been there

-but I've never seen anyone climb it.

-Is it a new thing?

-No, experienced climbers

-have been going there for 30 years.

-We're looking forward

-to going there.

-It's a difficult climb, apparently.

-It's a difficult climb, apparently.

-

-Yes. Too difficult for me.

-But you never know,

-after that breakfast!

-Thank you, Rini.

-Looking forward to this?

-Looking forward to this?

-

-Yes, I can't wait to get climbing.

-I think this will be a harder climb.

-Don't say that, Ioan!

-How has climbing affected

-your home life - your family life?

-I'm often asked that question.

-People ask me how I can be

-a family man and a father...

-..and yet go on solo climbs.

-There's no right answer to that.

-It's easy for people to say

-I'm selfish and I shouldn't do it...

-..but I'd been a solo climber

-for years before I met my wife.

-I didn't get married until I was 49.

-It's part of my life.

-If I didn't do it,

-I wouldn't be happy...

-..and I think

-my personality would change.

-I owe Ann a huge debt of gratitude

-for bringing up our two daughters.

-The ancient landscape

-of Piedra Parada...

-..in the desert,

-east of Esquel and west of Trelew.

-This tower of volcanic rock...

-..is almost 1,000 feet high.

-Dinosaurs also

-roamed across the pampas.

-Welsh settlers camped here

-in the 19th century...

-..en route to the Andes.

-That's exactly what we'll do too,

-over a century later.

-Here we are, Eric.

-What a lump of rock!

-It's like the lump of rock

-outside my cafe in Tremadog.

-Yes, but a bit bigger!

-What an incredible place, Eric.

-What grade is the easiest route?

-I don't know anything about it.

-It looks like

-a strange sort of rock.

-I've never seen a place like it.

-You've stayed in lots of shelters

-on mountains all over the world.

-What's the best bivouac you've used

-or the most memorable one?

-Most memorable

-for being good or bad?

-Either.

-The worst bivouac I've used...

-..was on the most difficult ascent

-I've ever done.

-The South Pillar of Brouillard...

-..on the south side of Mont Blanc

-in Italy.

-I'd climbed every step

-of the new route...

-..and I was up on the ridge,

-going for the summit.

-I was caught in a storm

-and I lost my ice pick.

-I was there for three days.

-I was on a tiny ledge.

-It wasn't really a ledge.

-I'd hacked just enough room

-to put my bum down.

-You were stuck there?

-You were stuck there?

-

-Yes, and it was snowing.

-Five feet of fresh snow.

-Without my ice pick,

-I had no chance.

-Eric is talking about Central Pillar

-above the Brouillard glacier...

-..on Mont Blanc.

-It's one of three granite towers.

-Walter Bonatti completed the

-first ascent of the left hand tower.

-The first ascent

-of the right hand tower...

-..was completed by Chris Bonington,

-John Harlin and Brian Robertson.

-Eric completed the first ascent

-of Central Pillar...

-..on a solo climb in 1971.

-It was the pinnacle of his career.

-The storm cleared on the third day.

-My girlfriend was down in the valley

-and she called for the helicopter.

-I was ashamed.

-Before it happened,

-I felt invincible.

-I was like you,

-believing you can climb anything.

-I had a massive comedown

-when that happened to me.

-Do you dream about climbing?

-Yes, I have

-lots of different dreams.

-I sometimes dream I can fly.

-I also have some unpleasant dreams.

-I dream about being a young boy

-on the farm...

-..the animals aren't fed

-and the shed is on fire.

-I also have dreams about climbing

-which are almost nightmares.

-I dream

-I'm caught in an avalanche...

-..and I see it

-coming down the mountain.

-But I wake up

-before the avalanche hits me.

-.

-Subtitles

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

-How do you feel this morning?

-I feel quite good.

-I had a good night.

-What a lovely asado.

-What a lovely asado.

-

-Yes, I still feel it on me.

-We're both liars.

-Are we?

-Yes.

-We both claim we don't snore.

-We were both snoring last night!

-It was amazing to wake up to this!

-It was amazing to wake up to this!

-

-Yes.

-How does it look to you?

-How does it look to you?

-

-Steep!

-Are we going to do it?

-Are we going to do it?

-

-I'll try.

-One section juts out.

-I'll climb when I can

-and you can pull me when I can't.

-Then we'll jump off the top!

-I would, if I had a parachute.

-The Argentine mountaineer, Leonardo

-Proverbio, joins us on this climb...

-..to film on the tower itself.

-The Welsh settlers who camped here

-in the 19th century...

-..named the tower Y Llaw - The Hand.

-The route we had in mind

-was graded E3 5c.

-A modest grade for me...

-..but extremely difficult for Eric,

-even with his vast experience.

-Towers are very special

-for us climbers.

-They stand alone.

-Solo, if you like.

-The only way to reach the top

-is by climbing them.

-You can't walk around them,

-as you can on ordinary climbs.

-It's a unique feeling.

-Remember to pause, Eric.

-Do you feel alright, Eric?

-No, I don't!

-No? You're climbing well.

-No.

-I'm not like I once was.

-We all have a few bites sometimes.

-It's old age.

-You're doing really well.

-Are we ready?

-Yes. Down, across and up.

-We were born ready!

-I think I'll try to get this

-out of the way.

-We'd been climbing for some hours

-and we'd reached half way.

-Eric and Leonardo had a discussion

-about the next step.

-You see? Two things.

-First, it's like a normal ATC...

-..so you don't have to

-hold completely this rope.

-With this one,

-you give more or less pressure.

-I'd rather climb down.

-Take it on.

-Eric is about to do

-a traverse motion...

-..where he'll climb across the rock

-to reach the desired point.

-The danger with this situation is,

-if you fall...

-..you fall across the rock

-in a pendulum motion.

-Leonardo wants Eric

-to use a new piece of equipment...

-..but Eric has his own ideas

-about how to solve the problem.

-I don't like to try new things.

-Maybe I can climb down anyway.

-What attracts you to solo climbing?

-The greatest attraction for me

-is that feeling of complete freedom.

-You don't need a partner

-or any equipment.

-You're alone

-and you rely on yourself.

-It's the purest form of climbing

-and the most dangerous.

-That element of danger...

-..is the biggest attraction for me.

-You're on a sheer rock face...

-..and your life

-is in your own hands.

-Mind control

-is vital in that situation.

-He's a good climber eh, Leo?

-He's a good climber eh, Leo?

-

-You bet.

-I hope we're half as good as him

-when we're his age.

-Great, Eric. Left a tiny bit.

-Great, Eric.

-Very good.

-Very good.

-Fantastic.

-It's an honour to climb with you.

-It's an honour to climb with you.

-

-The old man lives again!

-Let's go for the summit.

-Let's go for the summit.

-

-Yes. Let's take it steady.

-We reached the summit of Piedra

-Parada after seven hours' climbing.

-I was 23

-and Eric was 77 years young.

-Brilliant. Thank you.

-What an unforgettable day!

-Thank you.

-Fantastic. Incredible.

-Patagonian bara brith.

-Torta Negra Galesa.

-Here you go, Eric.

-What a treat!

-Welsh bara brith in Patagonia.

-I mentioned the R Bryn Williams

-stories to you before.

-He wrote a famous poem

-called Patagonia.

-It goes like this.

-Before death arrives on my border,

-A condor's long wings give to me

-Live free, from mountain to sea.

-When I saw the tower,

-I had to make it to the summit...

-..even if I had to use the rope.

-You made it to the summit.

-Yes, but it was difficult for me.

-You did really well.

-I was really happy.

-You made it, every step of the way.

-How do you feel now?

-Do you feel differently?

-Are you better than you'd imagined?

-Yes, definitely.

-When I first saw it, I thought

-I'd have to pull up on the rope...

-..but I coped quite well.

-My foot was very painful...

-..but the adrenaline overrode it.

-Does it make you wonder

-what standard you're at right now?

-Well...

-For your age

-and considering your health.

-I think that was

-my final big ascent.

-I bet everyone says that!

-Yes - I've been saying it for years!

-No. My foot hurts.

-Are you feeling it today?

-Yes, and I've reached the point

-where I no longer enjoy it.

-The pain is greater

-than the enjoyment I get out of it.

-It's high time I retired.

-I'll still do a bit of skiing

-and jumping out of aeroplanes.

-My climbing days are over.

-Conqueror of the tower of towers -

-That's Eric

-And the hero of the rocks

-Great wildness and high crevices

-This valiant man loves to enjoy.

-They return to Bwlch Y Moch

-To the castle of a cafe

-A haven of memories is this,

-Pictures on the walls

-A museum of a lifetime of adventure

-And somewhere,

-between the when and why

-They'll return to that same place.

-According to the final part

-of your book...

-..you'd like to spend time

-in a prison.

-What do you mean?

-It's quite a strange thing to say.

-All through my life, I've tried to

-sample every different experience.

-Very often in my youth...

-..I'd go up a mountain and feel

-as though nothing could stop me.

-But then I was caught in a storm

-and I was frightened.

-That made me feel my character

-wasn't as strong as I'd thought.

-That's why I wondered

-how I'd feel if I was imprisoned...

-..and lost my liberty.

-I'm sure I wouldn't feel like such

-a strong person in that situation.

-But I'd like to look back

-on the experience...

-..and see how I coped

-with losing my liberty.

-It's the kind of thing which

-makes you search inside yourself.

-You can't lie about yourself.

-Does that explain it?

-Does that explain it?

-

-Yes.

-S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones