Iolo, y Condor a'r Puma

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-I've come to the Andes

-in Central Chile.

-The capital Santiago

-is a few miles behind me.

-I'm looking for a unique bird.

-The Andes Condor is

-the world's largest bird of prey.

-The condor is the national symbol

-of four South American countries...

-..including Chile.

-Today, the condor is rare everywhere

-except in Chile and Argentina.

-There are no condors in Venezuela.

-There are only about 100 left

-in Colombia and in Ecuador.

-There are no figures available

-for Peru and Bolivia.

-In Chile, not far from Santiago...

-..there's a project to nurture

-and set the birds free in the wild.

-This will ensure

-the future of this superb bird.

-The project also aims to release

-other predators to the wild.

-This unique project

-is led by Eduardo Pavez.

-Yes, it's a Chilean eagle.

-This is a male eagle,

-which is smaller than the female.

-How many are here?

-How many are here?

-

-There are 50 in this centre.

-There are 50 in this centre.

-Can we go in?

-Can we go in?

-

-Follow me.

-Follow me.

-In most countries,

-the eagle is the biggest bird.

-But that's not the case in Chile.

-I'd like you to see the biggest

-bird of prey in the world...

-..The Andes Condor.

-We're going to see the condors now!

-Good grief!

-How much does it weigh?

-How much does it weigh?

-

-Twelve kilos.

-Twelve kilos.

-It weighs an incredible 12 kilos.

-This male was a tourist attraction

-outside a Santiago restaurant...

-..until Eduardo provided

-a sanctuary for it.

-He wants to play,

-but he's too dangerous for that!

-He's exceptionally strong.

-I admire the fact Eduardo

-started from scratch.

-As a young lad,

-he looked after injured predators.

-There wasn't enough room

-in his house.

-The sole aim of this centre

-is to care for these birds.

-Today, he's the world's

-leading authority on condors.

-People phone from all over

-the world to ask his advice.

-He's doing fantastic work here.

-Condors are the main reason

-for the centre's existence.

-People donate money

-for research into the condor.

-His first love

-is returning birds to the wild.

-This one will never go back.

-That's terribly sad.

-Why the black covers?

-There is a breeding pair inside.

-They want to be left in peace...

-..to give the egg

-an opportunity to hatch.

-Is this a condor egg?

-It was recently laid here.

-A week ago, we realised

-the chick had died after 50 days.

-It's enormous.

-A condor egg.

-Can we go inside?

-Can we go inside?

-

-Yes.

-Yes.

-It was impossible a week ago because

-the hatching period hadn't ended.

-The male condor on the right

-is bigger than the female.

-It has a comb, throat

-and different coloured eyes.

-The female has red eyes,

-and is slightly smaller.

-They can't release these birds

-because they're kept for breeding.

-If they're successful,

-the chicks will be released.

-The daring and ambitious process

-will take a couple of years.

-To Eduardo, the most important

-aspect of the process...

-..is studying the condors

-in the wild as often as possible...

-..especially close

-to their elusive nests.

-This is where the soon-to-be

-released birds are kept.

-Of the five, one is an adult female,

-and there are four chicks.

-They'll be released back to the wild

-not far from Santiago.

-They never go inside except

-to chase after the birds.

-They frighten the birds

-to make them scared of humans.

-In the wild,

-man shoots condors.

-That's the only time

-their keepers go inside.

-That's why a black blanket

-covers the side.

-To date, Eduardo's centre

-has been remarkably successful.

-Two years ago, they released birds

-that were bred in captivity...

-..for the first time.

-The eight birds

-were fitted with a satellite tag...

-..so they could be traced.

-The satellite sent a signal back

-to a central computer.

-They've discovered

-that six are still alive.

-That's a success story.

-One was shot, another was poisoned.

-This is where the journey begins.

-An injured bird will be

-brought to the hospital.

-We're on our way to meet specialist

-doctors who first treat them.

-This veterinary surgery is part

-of Chile National Zoo in Santiago.

-This young bird

-came here a week ago.

-They feared

-he'd lose his swollen eye.

-The bird has received

-a daily treatment of ointment.

-He's recovered very quickly.

-They think he can return

-to the wild in a month.

-The bird has come all the way

-from South Chile.

-The Zoo hospital and the centre's

-reputation...

-..have spread throughout

-the country.

-People bring

-the birds all the way here.

-When he's recovered,

-he'll go back to where he was found.

-That's the area he knows best.

-His brownish colour

-proves he's young.

-When he's about 7-8,

-he'll be black and white.

-They're placing

-a special chip inside his throat.

-It's only tiny - like this one.

-It's like a chip

-you'd put in a dog.

-If he ever returns here,

-they'll know who he is.

-The chip number will show up.

-They can identify the bird -

-which is excellent.

-These blokes know

-what they're doing.

-Look how big his feet are.

-They're like the feet

-of a large hen.

-They don't grab anything -

-they're just used for walking.

-They're perfectly adapted

-for walking on rocks.

-They're white because

-they put dirt on them.

-Sometimes, they need to lose heat.

-This doesn't happen

-when the climate is cold.

-The best way to achieve this

-is by whitening the feet...

-..or leaving them black.

-They control their body heat

-through the feet.

-It's amazing. It's impossible

-to put a ring on these birds.

-Back home, rings are placed

-on crows and eagles.

-This is impossible with condors -

-they lose heat through the feet.

-There's a continuous conflict

-between condors and people.

-Lead shots have been found in every

-condor that arrives at the surgery.

-That's amazing.

-South Chile is a rare location

-in South America...

-..for finding

-a thriving population of condors.

-We've travelled 1,000 miles

-south of Santiago...

-..over the borders, mountains

-and glaciers of Patagonia.

-This is Torres del Paine

-National Park.

-The granite towers found here are

-amongst the planet's most beautiful.

-This is the habitat

-of the condor, puma and guanaco.

-That's why Eduardo and I

-have come so far.

-We want to learn more

-about the condor.

-If we're lucky -

-we might catch sight of the puma.

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-The plains at the foot of the towers

-are full of wildlife.

-The buffed-necked ibis.

-The cinnamon teal.

-The yellowbill coot.

-And the black-necked swan.

-Zorro is the Spanish name for a fox.

-This is a caracara.

-In addition to studying condors...

-..we would study the relationship

-between condor, guanaco and puma.

-We weren't going to get

-much sleep over the next fortnight.

-Guanacos are one of the most

-important animals in the park.

-They form a natural,

-triangular food chain.

-The puma is in one corner

-whilst the guanaco is in another.

-The puma feeds on the guanaco.

-The condor is also a part

-of the triangle.

-The condor feeds off the skeleton

-that the puma leaves behind.

-The food chain was found the length

-and breadth of Chile long ago.

-But outside the park,

-the guanaco numbers have dwindled.

-Sheep, cows and horses

-have been introduced.

-The old, natural order

-has disappeared.

-This is the only place in the Andes

-where the old, natural order...

-..the triangle of dependency,

-still exists.

-As I walk around,

-I see two different groups.

-There are groups of young males.

-There are also family groups,

-like this one here.

-We can see about 40 females,

-and only one male.

-In spring, the males

-become very territorial.

-They sit high up,

-surveying the scene.

-They're prepared to fight with

-any male guanaco that comes near.

-The ultimate prize is that

-he can mate with the females.

-This is an exceedingly rare animal.

-The 8-legged guanaco.

-The guanaco is undoubtedly the most

-prominent animal in the park.

-The animal - and its excrement -

-are everywhere.

-This is a guanaco toilet.

-It's a territorial mound.

-The group use this location

-as their toilet.

-This defines the boundaries

-of their territory.

-It warns the other animals

-to stay away.

-It's very effective -

-because trust me - it stinks!

-We've come higher up the valley.

-A puma carried a young guanaco here.

-Look at the hole in his skull.

-The puma's large meat teeth

-went for the kill here.

-With the next bite,

-he shattered the head.

-That's how powerful he is.

-He kills by jumping

-on an animal's back.

-Usually, he grabs

-the backbone or the back.

-He hopes to break the backbone.

-The animal falls and dies.

-It's easier for the puma to handle.

-In the park, he feeds off guanacos.

-But outside the park,

-he feeds off sheep, lambs and foals.

-He isn't fond of hunting calves.

-Calves have thick, muscular necks.

-The puma can't get a hold of him,

-and kill him.

-But he's fond of lambs, and foals.

-That can cause serious problems.

-Outside the park,

-he's hunted all the time.

-Gauchos hunt him with dogs.

-The puma defends himself

-by climbing a tree.

-But there, he's an easy target.

-But thank goodness, in the park,

-they're totally safe.

-There are clues everywhere -

-but where's the puma?

-There's a cluster of trees here.

-Eduardo has found a puma's bed.

-Perhaps he's been chewing

-a bone or two.

-He could still be here somewhere.

-We're not sure, so we're

-keeping quiet. Let's have a look.

-It's obviously an old bed.

-The bones could be up to a year old.

-But he's used this spot regularly.

-There's very little growth here.

-Pity they're not more fresh.

-Maybe we'll find something else

-in the trees.

-We're out during the day...

-..because we've been advised

-that the best way to find a puma...

-..is to come across

-a freshly killed guanaco.

-They'll feed off it for 4-5 days.

-If we can find one, and sit tight

-first thing in the morning...

-..and last thing at night, maybe

-we'll catch a glimpse of one.

-We'll walk around, and look.

-But such a find gives one hope

-that they are around.

-You have to be on your guard -

-this could be dangerous.

-Although pumas

-don't normally attack humans...

-..a fisherman was killed

-and eaten here three years ago.

-Because we're cornering them,

-we could be attacked.

-They almost never attack - but

-there's always that possibility...

-..especially if young ones are here.

-That's why we're being careful.

-They're unlike other big cats.

-Eduardo has seen something.

-The lion and tiger will attack -

-these won't.

-I'm following Eduardo's footsteps.

-If I entered from the other side,

-a puma might feel cornered.

-That's when they're dangerous.

-I'll follow Eduardo.

-A young guanaco's foot.

-It was just tiny.

-He was obviously small enough

-for the puma to carry back.

-Usually, the adults are too big.

-They have to be left where they are.

-They'll feed for 3-4 days, and leave

-him to the condors and caracaras.

-This one was small enough

-to bring back here.

-It was an important place for him.

-Eduardo has just told me

-to be very careful.

-There's a powerful

-scent of pumas in the area.

-I'm not sure whether there's

-a live puma within 10 yards of us.

-I doubt it -

-unless he has young ones.

-I'll have to be incredibly careful -

-and concentrate.

-We'd better leave

-and not go any further.

-No puma - just Eduardo!

-Thanks, Eduardo!

-He frightened me!

-This is a black-chinned siskin's

-nest.

-This bird comes to gardens

-for monkey nuts.

-He lives solely in South America.

-The pretty nest with its three eggs

-is perched on the branch.

-I've liked searching for nests

-since I was a little boy.

-We're seeing miracles of nature

-all around us. It's brilliant.

-Eduardo reckons the puma muck

-is very fresh.

-I like this bloke.

-He's a world authority on condors

-as well as the puma.

-He knows about the wildlife

-in the park.

-But most importantly,

-he speaks Spanish slowly.

-Even I can understand him -

-thank goodness.

-This is an indication

-of the puma's power and danger.

-This wasn't a small guanaco.

-He carried it here,

-and opened him up.

-He's ripped the guanaco to shreds,

-tearing off his head.

-He's made a mess of it.

-The head is broken in half.

-It's amazing. Good heavens!

-After days of searching in vain,

-Eduardo caught sight of four pumas.

-SPANISH CONVERSATION

-He's running away.

-The other isn't far.

-Stay on that one.

-At last! We've found pumas.

-We ran at least a mile, up and down.

-My laces are undone. I have thorns

-in my socks. I'm sweating buckets.

-But d'you know what? I don't care.

-This is the main reason

-for us to come to Torres del Paine.

-We wanted to see the puma

-as well as the condor.

-Eduardo spotted four pumas

-from afar.

-Unfortunately, by the time we rushed

-down here - they moved further away.

-We've seen two -

-there are another two somewhere.

-It must be a mother

-and three fairly old cubs.

-It was certainly worth the run.

-We're still looking.

-They're hiding in undergrowth.

-We'll continue to look for them.

-Excellent!

-It's 4.00am.

-We've been up since 3.30am-4.00am.

-We've been out every night 'til

-after 10.00pm.

-I hope now we can have a lie-in.

-Doubt it, though!

-Thank you, Al!

-I'm going to look for another job.

-888

-I've left the park.

-This is Puerto Natales.

-The condors have all left the park.

-There's more food for them here.

-Over the next few days, not only

-will I be looking at the condors...

-..I'll be researching them.

-In order to achieve this,

-I'll be climbing very steep cliffs.

-I'm no mountaineer -

-but I know a man who is!

-Caradoc Jones is Tregaron's

-most famous climber.

-We meet on terra firma this time!

-You know this area very well.

-I think it's one of the most

-amazing corners of the world.

-It's steeped in history.

-The people are interesting, too.

-I've always enjoyed

-climbing in South America.

-I started coming here in the '80s.

-I had the opportunity

-to come and work with you.

-I'll be going on a mountaineering

-expedition afterwards, too.

-I'm sure you'll manage the

-dangerous task I've set up for you.

-I'd like to start by showing you

-something rather special.

-I took Caradoc 100kms south

-of Puerto Natales.

-Estancia Olga Theresa

-is gaucho land.

-This is Patagonia's busiest colony

-of condors, especially in spring.

-There you go! I said

-I'd show you a sight and a half!

-There are about 12 flying around.

-And another 40 on the rock itself.

-This is the condors' habitat.

-The Spanish name is 'butrera'.

-'Butre' is a word for vulture.

-'Butrera' means, 'Vulture's Lair.'

-If they roost here,

-where are their nests?

-A condor's territory

-can be up to 100km square.

-That's the same size as Snowdon.

-Their nests are within

-the territory.

-They defend up to 1km

-around the nest.

-Otherwise,

-they're very sociable birds.

-They have to travel many miles

-in search of food.

-If a condor is 80km from his nest

-at 8.00pm...

-..he knows he won't make it home.

-But he knows where other condors

-come to roost.

-They're very wise.

-What is their lifespan?

-Some live over half a century.

-But they're not mature 'til

-they're seven years old.

-The egg remains in the nest

-for two months.

-The chick stays in the nest

-for another six months.

-The chick stays with the adult

-for another 18 months.

-They only produce one egg

-once every two years.

-They must live for a long time

-to produce enough chicks.

-This is a fantastic spot.

-They seem very inquisitive birds.

-When I was climbing in Peru,

-they'd come to us on the cliff face.

-They'd venture much closer

-than other large birds.

-Some fly above you

-and turn their heads like chickens.

-It's as if they're saying,

-"What are you doing here?"

-Caradoc looks like a spider

-hanging from his web!

-Eduardo was keen to have a closer

-look at the condor's roosting spot.

-We chose another roosting place that

-wasn't as busy as Olga Theresa's.

-But we only had a couple of hours

-of daytime...

-..to ensure

-we didn't disturb the birds.

-Caradoc! The cave looks so much

-bigger now you're above it.

-It looks very small from here.

-But it looks huge now.

-OK, yes, Iolo.

-I'm suspended in space.

-I've no hope of landing on a ledge.

-I can see it all in great detail.

-Caradoc, can you give us

-an idea of the cave's size?

-The cave is about 3 metres deep.

-That deep!

-How big is the whole area?

-35 metres, more or less.

-It's 3 metres high.

-Are the bird droppings all over

-the cave, or only at the entrance?

-No, the droppings

-are all over the floor.

-Is the cave mouth

-sheltered from the wind?

-The cave mouth appears very open.

-Are there remains of pellets there?

-There are some pellets here,

-but I can't see anything else...

-..only white guano.

-How many condors

-would usually stay here?

-Perhaps there would be up to

-7 birds here at the same time.

-The male, female and chicks have

-their place in the roosting area.

-It isn't by accident.

-The best place is reserved

-for the oldest male.

-The rest move around

-according to their status.

-Is this of interest to you?

-Oh, yes. This is information

-I was previously unaware of.

-It's so much better than observing

-them flying in the mountains.

-You can learn a lot through

-studying their roosting place.

-There are no droppings in the nest?

-No - there's much more muck

-in the roosting place.

-It's easily spotted from afar.

-You don't see droppings

-around the nest?

-Very little.

-And now it's time for a small beer!

-Whilst Eduardo had the hard task

-of finding a condor's nest...

-..Caradoc and I visited Estancia

-El Solitario on shearing day.

-We asked the owner, Jose Hernandez,

-and his brother Victor...

-..if condors and pumas

-were a problem for them.

-Condors aren't a problem. Only

-dead animals attract the condor.

-The puma's a huge problem through

-the year - especially in winter.

-We can lose over 100 sheep.

-Every year?

-Every year?

-

-Yes, every year.

-Yes, every year.

-There are approximately

-2,000 sheep here...

-..and so you're talking about

-a loss of 5% because of the puma!

-The puma was big -

-I'd say he was three years old.

-He attacked my favourite dog.

-He grabbed his head

-and was going for the kill.

-I fought back and stabbed him

-with a knife. He ran away.

-Eduardo's worth his weight in gold.

-He's found a condor's nest for us.

-You'd never know unless

-you saw the bird flying in.

-They're very loving -

-she's come to him.

-It's as if they're greeting

-one another.

-The beak is slowly going through

-the other's feathers.

-It's a way of ensuring this pairing.

-The pair stay close to one another.

-Once they mate,

-they stay together for life.

-That can be a long time -

-half a century sometimes.

-They're so loving.

-Eduardo's incredibly happy.

-It's almost unbelievable.

-We can see a little

-brownish-grey chick in the nest.

-It's on the right of the cave.

-I can't see him clearly.

-How old d'you think he is?

-About three weeks, I'd say.

-We daren't go any closer,

-in case we frighten the parents.

-It's cold. Such a young chick loses

-heat without his parents' presence.

-This is an important revelation

-for Eduardo.

-It's hard to find a condor's nest

-in the wild.

-Hardly anyone has achieved to get

-images like this before...

-..recording the behaviour

-of the parents by the nest.

-Eduardo intends returning in

-3 months when the chick is bigger.

-He can watch, and glean more

-information about breeding chicks...

-..back at the Santiago centre.

-It reminds me of The Falklands.

-We returned to the Torres del Paine

-National Park.

-With three pairs of eyes, could we

-catch sight of the puma again?

-It was a chance

-I didn't want to miss.

-888

-# I met a girl, a girl, a girl,

-# I met a girl on the telephone.

-# Her lovely voice I hear, I hear. #

-Our time in the Paine

-was drawing to a close.

-Before tracking

-the puma one last time...

-..there was one final thing

-I had to do.

-The Patagonia Glacier pours into

-lakes on the park's western side.

-It's the world's largest glacier -

-outside of the Poles.

-It's 500kms long.

-As Caradoc guided me...

-..it was awful to witness the effect

-of global warming in South Chile.

-This is a satellite picture

-of the area.

-We're on the grey glacier,

-in this small corner here.

-This stretches all the way

-to the north.

-I thought this was big here.

-But looking at the map,

-it's just a tiny section.

-This rock splits the glacier.

-It stretches beyond

-the furthest part there.

-It's retreated

-almost a mile since 1997.

-Driving around at home,

-you don't think of this.

-When you see it for yourself

-- it's alarming.

-The speed of the change

-frightens me.

-I expected a gradual change

-over hundreds of years.

-I can see it during my lifetime.

-It's happening so quickly.

-That's what's shocking everyone.

-When did this rock

-last see the light of day?

-To see the cat, we had to keep the

-same hours as the cat. Tiring work!

-We're still looking. If something,

-it's colder today than yesterday.

-It's so quiet!

-The guanacos are quiet.

-The birds and animals are all quiet.

-If there are pumas around,

-they'd warn each other.

-But there's nothing - just silence.

-This fox is lucky

-he came across a chilengo.

-The young guanaco

-was struck by a car.

-After days of searching,

-we were lucky, too.

-This is the guanaco Eduardo

-saw this morning.

-It was killed by a puma.

-You can see the marks left

-on his mouth and head.

-It was a big one, too.

-It was hard for a puma

-to bring it down.

-It isn't fresh. The eyes have gone,

-the tongue has dried.

-I'd say it was about three days old.

-It doesn't stink yet -

-it's still quite fresh.

-He's fed along the side.

-He's mainly fed around the backside.

-This is where the large muscles

-are found.

-He's taken big chunks from there.

-The grass that's scattered around

-is interesting.

-You can see the remains here.

-The puma chucks grass

-on the carcass.

-It's an attempt to conceal it

-from other pumas or condors.

-But it's easily seen!

-It wasn't very effective.

-Why do they bother doing it?

-It's our best chance

-of filming the cat close-up.

-How does it look

-from the other side?

-We've finished our hideaway.

-There's enough room

-for the camera woman and me.

-We'll be here all night,

-hoping to see a puma.

-I'll keep my fingers crossed.

-In torchlight -

-we finally found a puma.

-The male puma was about 4 years old.

-He approached the dead guanaco -

-ignoring it completely initially.

-He then came even closer.

-He lay down right in front

-of our hideaway.

-It's strange he didn't

-associate torchlight with humans.

-He isn't afraid of light.

-But if he'd heard a sound,

-or seen movement...

-..he'd have bolted like lightning.

-This was a huge privilege.

-Being within 30 yards of a wild puma

-in its natural habitat...

-..and staring in amazement

-at the big cat...

-..that's being hunted

-all over the Andes.

-The highlight of an unforgettable

-fortnight in Torres del Paine.

-S4C Subtitles by

-GWEAD