Naranjo de Bulnes-Gwlad Basg Antur Caradoc


Naranjo de Bulnes-Gwlad Basg

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-Mariona, at last we've met up,

-here in Bilbao.

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-This is my first visit to Bilbao.

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-Between us, we speak 5 languages.

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-We can declare ourselves

-a truly international campaign.

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-Your first language is Catalan,

-I'm Welsh, we both speak Spanish...

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-..and English, and of course

-there's another language - Basque.

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-Is it very different from Catalan?

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-It's totally different

-from Spanish and Catalan.

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-The Guggenheim

-is a very striking building.

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-It's unique, it has become

-a symbol of the country.

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-Is it a fish?

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-The sea? Waves?

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-It reminds me of the sea and waves.

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-Caradoc has joined a prominent

-young mountaineer from Catalonia...

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-..to climb Spain's most famous peak,

-situated 100 miles west of Bilbao...

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-..in the limestone range

-of Picos de Europa.

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-The mountain is called

-Naranjo de Bulnes - or El Picu.

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-Is the Picu important to Spanish

-mountaineering history?

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-Yes, ever since it was conquered

-at the beginning of the century.

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-It made an immense impression

-on Spanish people.

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-Every climb has been considered

-the most difficult of its era.

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-Is the western wall

-the largest in Spain?

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-Yes, it's the biggest,

-500 metres, and very steep.

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-This is what makes it Spain's

-most famous climbing wall.

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-How do you think we'll fare?

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-We'll see.

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-Is that the north face?

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-Yes, it was first climbed

-from this side.

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-Are we going to take

-the right-hand route?

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-See the line between sun and shade?

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-That's the highest part of

-Navaro/Rabada on the western face.

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-El Picu was first climbed in 1904,

-by Pedro Pidale.

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-He won a silver medal for shooting

-in the 1900 Olympic Games.

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-His partner was Gregorio Perez,

-a shepherd from Cain.

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-It took them 3 days to climb

-Spain's most difficult mountain.

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-Pedro Pidale generously shared

-the glory with his local friends.

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-It's a very difficult place I think.

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-OK.

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-They take the lead in turn.

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-The second climber carries a sack

-for food, drink and warm clothes.

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-The climb has 22 pitches.

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-They have to move quickly

-to reach the peak in a day.

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-Mariona is a 22-year-old student.

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-She graduated in History of Art

-at Barcelona University.

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-Like Caradoc, she began climbing

-when she was 13 years old.

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-Unlike the Welshman,

-mountaineering is in her blood.

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-Her grandfather and father

-were climbers.

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-By now, her climbing experience

-is worldwide.

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-After climbing

-Europe's highest mountains...

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-..and a successful ascent

-on El Capitan in California...

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-..next year, she's going to venture

-to the Himalayas for the first time.

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-Mariona is obviously concentrating.

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-She hasn't noticed that the weather

-is slowly closing in.

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-Every pitch

-is approximately 50 metres.

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-It means carrying a great deal of

-equipment to secure each movement.

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-The climb is hard,

-and the equipment heavy.

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-A breeze from the Bay of Biscay

-turns into fog and rain on Picos.

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-Ahead of them, the climb crosses

-the vast empty western face.

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-There's no easy way out from here

-when the rock is wet.

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-The rain is coming.

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-They've no choice - after climbing

-600 ft - they have to turn back.

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-

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-Four days later, after rain

-forced them off the wall...

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-..Caradoc and Mariona are back for

-another attempt on Navaro/Rabada...

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-..in the Picos mountain range.

-The weather is colder.

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-Soon, it will be hard to turn back,

-because the climb crosses the face.

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-They need a spot of luck,

-because the forecast is poor.

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-But they're both very determined.

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-This is the 7th pitch.

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-There's another 15 to go.

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-The sack is heavy, isn't it?

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-It's like having a mule on my back.

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-This cross is the key to the climb.

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-After this, the problems lessen.

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-The first climbers were very clever

-to discover this path.

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-Yes. This is the sensible route.

-It's too steep directly above us.

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-Ernesto Navaro and Alberto Rabada...

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-..solved the problem of negotiating

-the weaknesses of the western face.

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-They crossed a smooth surface...

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-..to form a link between the lower

-cracks and the easier higher parts.

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-It was extremely daring

-back in 1962.

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-OK, Mariona?

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-OK.

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-The rope isn't of much use

-to Mariona as she climbs across.

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-If anything, it's harder for her,

-because she's carrying the sack.

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-Good climbing, don't you think?

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-I've nearly finished the traverse...

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-..once Mariona

-has come round this corner.

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-That's the key to reach

-the highest part of the face.

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-Next, there's a pendulum,

-in order to reach the chimney.

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-Steep cracks connect

-a series of shelves.

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-In turn, they lead to the summit.

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-Today, despite the forecast,

-the weather is in their favour.

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-Fortunately,

-the Bay of Biscay poses no threat.

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-But there's one difficult pitch

-ahead, before they reach the summit.

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-After climbing since daybreak,

-it's now late afternoon.

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-For the first time,

-they're climbing in the sun.

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-It's quite easy

-to climb alternately isn't it?

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-How far is the peak -

-6 rope lengths?

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-No, less. Only two or three,

-and then it's easier.

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-The short-legged team has succeeded!

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-Here we are on the summit.

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-At last, at last,

-thanks very much.

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-One of the best days ever!

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