Pennod 10 Ar y Lein


Pennod 10

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-Last week, I was in the North Pole,

-surrounded by ice and snow.

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-This week, I'm in the Faroe Islands

-in the rain and the wind.

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-No wonder I've caught a cold!

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-888

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-888

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-The Faroe Islands

-are 18 volcanic islands...

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-..in the middle

-of the Atlantic Ocean.

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-According to legend, when God

-finished creating the Earth...

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-..he washed the dirt

-from under his fingernails...

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-..and created the Faroe Islands -

-how romantic!

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-After leaving the North Pole...

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-..I've headed south along

-the five-degree longitude line.

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-Until now, I'd only ever heard

-of this place...

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-..on the BBC shipping forecast.

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-This is Torshavn, the capital city.

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-It's a small town,

-about the same size as Bangor...

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-..if you include all the students.

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-This is where two-fifths

-of the islands' population lives.

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-The buildings

-are very elegant and colourful.

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-The town is a mixture

-of the old and new.

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-The shops are very Scandinavian...

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-..full of wood and open spaces,

-but it's also quite expensive here.

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-There is some unique produce here.

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-There are all sorts of fish,

-and this is whale fat!

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-People eat it raw, and it's

-particularly nice in a sandwich.

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-Whale fat!

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-These are bestsellers here.

-They're called 'knettr'.

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-They're made of mashed fish,

-lamb fat and onions.

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-They're boiled like dumplings.

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-Mmm, I'll try one of those.

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-And then...

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-This is poor man's meat.

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-If you're short of cash,

-you can't afford real lamb.

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-This is lamb mixed with fish.

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-Mixed together like burgers.

-They're boiled, too.

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-They're meant to be very tasty.

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-And over here...

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-..come with me...

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-..look at that!

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-A sheep's head.

-The eyes are wrapped up with it.

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-It's very popular

-and very tasty, apparently.

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-Lamb in the Faroes is so expensive.

-Most people can't afford to buy it.

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-They do eat dried lamb, though.

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-It smells a bit. I think

-I'll try that - dried lamb.

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-Mmm!

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-There are no trees here because

-the soil isn't deep enough.

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-When people built houses

-in the old days...

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-..they would only use

-stones, driftwood and grass.

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-That keeps in the warmth.

-Imagine having a roof that grows!

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-Football is a religion

-in the Faroes.

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-It attracts girls as well as boys.

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-This is one of Torshavn's

-women's sides.

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-I hadn't played

-since my primary school days...

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-..and that was painfully obvious.

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-I spoke to some of the girls.

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-All these girls are under 17 -

-and they're tough.

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-They train in all kinds of weather.

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-The weather in the Faroes

-is very changeable.

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-There's no shortage of opposition...

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-..and they play every week.

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-And, yes - they win sometimes!

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-They're all facing me.

-It's like being in a war.

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-That was well hit!

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-BLEEP

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-The landscape here

-is wild, dramatic and lovely...

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-..when you can see it

-through the wind and rain.

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-As my guide pointed out...

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-..if you don't like the weather,

-wait five minutes.

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-Here, you can experience

-all the seasons within 24 hours.

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-It's like being at home!

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-Talking of links with Wales...

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-It's a small world - we stopped

-at the side of the road...

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-..and met a farmer called Absolon.

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-These dogs come from Wales.

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-You bought them from Glyn Jones...

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-Bodfari.

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-Bodfari.

-

-Bod Isaf farm, Bodfari.

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-They've got Welsh names,

-well, Welsh commands.

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-This one's on Welsh commands.

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-This one is 'Cer o'na'

-and the other is 'Dal yma'.

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-'Cer o'na' and 'Dal yma'?

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-'Cer o'na' is one way

-and 'Dal yma'...

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-Sheepdogs that understand Welsh

-in the Faroes!

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-They know me. We're friends.

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-There is some sheep farming here

-but fishing is the main industry.

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-Fishing contributes greatly

-to the economy.

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-It has sustained the people

-for centuries.

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-My guide wanted me to sample

-some of the delicacies of the deep.

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-He also wanted to teach me

-some Faroese.

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-HE SPEAKS FAROESE

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-Everyone speaks Faroese - everyone!

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-Although Danish was the official

-language in schools until 1938.

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-48,000 people live here, less than

-half the number of Welsh speakers...

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-..but they have

-two daily national newspapers...

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-..and numerous locals papers

-written in Faroese.

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-Back to the food!

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-Whale meat.

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-Whale fat.

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-Dried fish.

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-And boiled potato.

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-You eat all four ingredients

-in a sandwich like this.

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-The taste is meant to explode

-in my mouth.

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-It's meant to be

-a pleasant experience!

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-We'll see.

-I've got to eat it all at once.

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-How old was this whale?!

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-Mmm!

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-After hunting whales for years here,

-pilot whales are protected now.

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-That doesn't please everyone.

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-Faroe islanders

-want the right to hunt.

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-John says you can't live here

-without understanding nature.

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-What right do people who know

-nothing about the Faroes have...

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-..to tell us what we can eat?

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-That was just an introduction

-to the Faroes.

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-There's a lot more to the place.

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-I like the changeable weather

-and I like the rugged landscape.

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-I like the fact that the language

-is so vibrant and I like the people.

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-They like it here.

-They're happy here.

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-I'm happy here, too.

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-But it's time to go now.

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-After the break,

-I'll be in Scotland.

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-So, for now,

-from the Faroes, farewell!

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-Or, as they say here,

-'Farvael, Foroyar'.

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-888

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-888

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-Here I am. After nine months

-of travelling around the world...

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-..I've reached Cape Wrath

-on the northern coast of Scotland.

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-Yes, I'm on my way home,

-but I've still got some way to go.

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-There are hundreds of miles

-between here and Fishguard...

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-..and plenty to see along the way.

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-This lighthouse was built in 1828

-by Robert Stevenson.

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-The sea and the weather,

-as the name suggests - Cape Wrath...

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-..can be rather inclement at times.

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-The landscape is wild and beautiful.

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-It takes a lot of effort

-to reach here...

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-..but it's a popular place

-with walkers and naturalists.

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-The five-degree west longitude line

-cuts straight through Cape Wrath...

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-..one of the wildest

-and remotest places in Britain.

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-There are some wonderful beaches

-here, like the one behind me...

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-..and it can be quite noisy...

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-..because it's owned

-by the Ministry of Defence.

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-They've been known

-to drop a bomb or two here.

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-Further along the coastline

-is the village of Durness...

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-..a collection of houses

-on the seafront.

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-This is the most

-north-westerly village in Britain.

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-You'd think that the Gaelic language

-would be very strong here.

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-Unfortunately, it's rarely spoken.

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-John Morrison

-has lived in Durness for many years.

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-There was a deliberate policy

-to destroy the Gaelic language...

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-..by the government.

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-Hostility towards the language

-meant it wasn't taught in school.

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-Consequently, the younger

-generation didn't pick it up.

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-I don't think it's important

-to the people any more...

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-..because they don't

-speak the language.

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-They've been led to believe their

-language and culture is inferior.

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-They don't feel

-there's any point to it.

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-All over the world,

-once they lose their language...

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-They lose their identity

-and culture.

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-This poem is about a man

-who returns to Scotland...

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-..to find that almost everything

-has changed.

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-HE RECITES IN GAELIC

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-The use of the language

-is increasing in other parts...

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-..especially among school children.

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-Only John and one other person

-can speak the language here.

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-It was time to move on

-and I headed south...

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-..past some of Scotland's

-most beautiful landscape.

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-I soon reached Fort William, capital

-city of the Scottish Highlands.

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-It's at the foot of Ben Nevis.

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-This isn't the prettiest place

-in Scotland...

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-..but it's handy

-if you need to go to the bank.

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-Ben Nevis is behind me.

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-As it happens, the line

-goes right through Ben Nevis.

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-We had intended

-to climb up to the summit.

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-But today's forecast

-was cloud, wind and rain...

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-..although, right now,

-it's not too bad at all.

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-There are loads of people

-climbing up Ben Nevis.

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-I'm going to be a baby

-and stay down here...

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-..because some of those clouds

-over there look nasty.

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-There are plenty of other things

-to do around here when it's raining.

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-Or when it's fine.

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-I did say clouds, didn't I?!

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-Apart from the mountains, one

-of the area's best attractions...

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-..is the Ice Factor Climbing Centre

-in Kinlochleven.

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-It used to be a power plant.

-It was built by the same people...

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-..who built Dolgarrog Power Plant.

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-It now has a number

-of climbing walls...

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-..including the largest

-articulated rock wall in the world.

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-Centres like this

-are common in Scotland...

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-..but the Ice Factor

-has one unique characteristic.

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-The name should give you a clue.

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-I haven't climbed on ice for years.

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-Many, many years.

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-But Kenny is going to guide me

-safely all the way up there.

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-Aren't you, Kenny? Just nod!

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-So, what's the, um...

-What do I do first?

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-This is the largest indoor

-ice wall in the world.

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-This is one huge freezer

-on its side.

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-The ice was provided

-by a local fishmonger.

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-It's a great idea.

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-Learning to climb on ice

-in the open air can be dangerous...

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-..and cold!

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-I wasn't sure

-how much I could remember.

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-Ready?

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-You need strong arms...

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-..and faith in your crampons

-to do this properly.

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-I didn't have to kick that hard

-but I was nervous.

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-I only need to apply

-a little more pressure in my soles.

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-It was hard work. I was sweating

-pints by the halfway point.

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-Oh, no,

-did you have to film my backside?

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-I forgot how much I enjoyed this.

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-I've reached the summit.

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-This is fun. If you're ever

-in Scotland with nothing to do...

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-..come here.

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-Even if you're a novice,

-they'll teach you.

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-It's fun - really!

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-It's a great place and a great way

-of re-using an old power plant.

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-Could we do something similar

-in Trawsfynydd?

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-Or is that too radioactive?

-You wouldn't want your axe to melt!

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-Lovely - 'Diolch yn fawr',

-as we say in Wales.

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-Thank you.

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-This is Glencoe - the site of one

-of Scotland's most horrific stories.

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-The MacDonalds and Campbells had

-fought each other for generations.

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-By 1692, the Campbells

-had sided with the Crown.

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-But the chief

-of the MacDonald clan...

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-..was late to register his loyalty

-to the King of England.

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-800 soldiers

-were sent to teach them a lesson.

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-The tragedy is that

-the MacDonalds welcomed the army...

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-..which happened to include

-some of the Campbell clan.

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-For ten days, they provided them

-with food, drink and shelter.

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-In that time,

-they got to know the clan...

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-..spoke to them

-and played with their children.

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-When the order was made...

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-..to kill everyone under 70

-by 5.00am the following day...

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-..they obeyed the order.

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-Hundreds managed to flee

-to the mountains...

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-..but they did kill 38 people,

-including old people and children.

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-Apparently, some MacDonalds still

-refuse to sit with the Campbells.

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-It's easier to blame your neighbour

-than the King of England.

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-We headed south through Scotland

-hoping to catch the ferry to Arran.

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-It's a small island, 20 miles

-in length, with a rich history.

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-The trip on the ferry

-takes 45 minutes...

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-..and after driving through Glasgow

-and other cities in the south...

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-..it's a different world.

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-To the south of Arran is

-a smaller island called Holy Island.

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-It used to be home to Christian

-monks. It's now a Buddhist centre.

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-I called in for a yoga lesson

-with Fiona McGovern...

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-..a yoga teacher who had her first

-yoga lesson here when she was 15.

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-I'm doing a reclining Buddha pose.

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-I like it! It's nice!

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-It's nice, isn't it?

-I like this one.

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-You keep working that lower leg.

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-To save you seeing my backside

-in the air greeting the sun...

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-..here's the garden

-with some Buddhist garden gnomes.

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-It feels good. I feel better.

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-It feels heavy here.

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-In a good way?

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-It looks like you're

-creating more space across here.

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-I can see more of your neck.

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-How was I before?

-Was I like that? Was I?

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-Can you see?

-There's more space here now.

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-Can you see it?

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-I can feel it.

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-Now I've got a longer neck.

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-Your eyes are clearer.

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-They were bloodshot before.

-I don't know what I'd been doing.

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-It's gone.

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-My left eye was bloodshot

-this morning - it's OK now.

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-Can you see it?

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-I was glad to feel so relaxed.

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-Back on Arran, in the middle

-of a town called Brodick...

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-..I had quite a shock.

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-I'd say they were farmers.

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-Would you?

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-I was right - a group of farmers

-from Cerrigydrudion, Ysbyty Ifan...

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-..and Llanrwst

-on their annual NFU branch trip.

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-They're lost!

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-We've been here for three days.

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-Three days? Doing what?

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-Visiting farms on the island.

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-I don't believe that.

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-Is that all you've done?

-Nothing else?

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-Are you all farmers?

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-All but one - we've got

-Bob the Builder with us!

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-Anyone famous on board?

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-There is someone.

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-Trebor Edwards.

-He's at the back somewhere.

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-Would you like to see him?

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-I know him. Can I see him?

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-Are you coming with me?

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-Where is he?

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-I'd have thought you were

-more at home on a cruise ship.

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-It's nice to have a change.

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-Where have you been today?

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-We've visited two farms.

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-That's what you've been doing.

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-Just farms. Nothing else.

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-Yes, that's all we've done.

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-We're experts on farms.

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-Why don't I believe you?

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-Why don't I believe you?

-

-Don't you believe us?

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-There we go.

-How long are you here for?

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-We're going home tomorrow morning.

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-We're going home tomorrow morning.

-

-I'll see you there!

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-Not only did I know I'd be

-going home in good company...

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-..but I finally went out in a canoe.

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-Having been around the world twice,

-this was my first outing in a canoe.

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-Canoeing around Brodick with local

-canoeist Calum and the seals...

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-..was a brilliant experience.

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-That's it from Scotland.

-Next stop - Fishguard...

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-..where it all started.

0:21:190:21:21

-I'll see you there.

-Until then, cheerio!

0:21:210:21:24

-So, fancy a trip to Wales,

-then, Calum?

0:21:260:21:29

-We were almost at our journey's end.

0:21:410:21:44

-We followed the line from the

-Isle of Arran back to Fishguard.

0:21:440:21:48

-I last visited Fishguard a year ago.

0:21:520:21:54

-It hasn't changed much.

0:21:550:21:57

-The only thing that's changed

-are my clothes.

0:21:570:22:02

-I'm back where I started

-in Fishguard.

0:22:020:22:05

-The long journey

-around the world is over.

0:22:050:22:08

-It was long and arduous.

0:22:090:22:11

-I'm a year older

-and I've really enjoyed myself.

0:22:110:22:14

-I enjoyed this journey

-more than the other.

0:22:140:22:17

-There's been so much variety

-along the way.

0:22:170:22:20

-Traditions, people, temperature -

-everything!

0:22:200:22:23

-Take the temperature for instance.

0:22:230:22:25

-I froze in the North Pole

-until my fillings hurt...

0:22:260:22:29

-..and I baked in the Fijian sun.

0:22:290:22:32

-I was nervous in New Zealand

-on the polo horse...

0:22:330:22:36

-..and in the pedal-shearing

-competition.

0:22:360:22:40

-I marvelled at the beauty

-of nature in the Antarctic...

0:22:400:22:44

-..where I fell in love

-with glaciers.

0:22:440:22:47

-Where else did I go?

0:22:470:22:49

-I have fond memories of Spain.

-I enjoyed myself there.

0:22:500:22:53

-I almost murdered the language,

-danced the flamenco...

0:22:530:22:57

-..and rode a horse up the Picos.

0:22:570:23:00

-The warmest welcome I received was

-from a Berber family in Morocco...

0:23:000:23:05

-..and the Dogon people of Mali -

-magical experiences.

0:23:060:23:11

-Yes, it was fun. I've learnt a lot.

0:23:110:23:14

-But I've said it before

-and I'll say it again...

0:23:150:23:18

-..there's nowhere like Wales!

0:23:180:23:20

-Home sweet home!

0:23:210:23:23

-# I've slept under the stars

-in the Sahara

0:23:240:23:28

-# And stayed up all night in Prague

0:23:300:23:34

-# I've danced on a mountain

-with my new-found friends

0:23:370:23:42

-# And woken up

-on an empty aeroplane.

0:23:440:23:47

-# There's no place like home

0:23:490:23:54

-# So they tell me

0:23:570:24:01

-# There's no place like home

0:24:020:24:08

-# But home is just like you.

0:24:090:24:13

-# Home is just like you. #

0:24:160:24:20

-S4C subtitles by Rh Sion Morgan

0:24:220:24:25

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