Pennod 7 Ar y Lein


Pennod 7

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-888

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-888

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-888

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-Look at it.

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-Listen to it.

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-I don't think I've ever visited

-somewhere as incredible as this.

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-I'm speechless.

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-Just look at it.

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-After a long journey from New

-Zealand, over the Southern Ocean...

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-..I've reached Cape Adare

-in the Antarctic.

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-From there,

-I hope to break through the ice...

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-..past Mount Erebus, Cape Royds

-and Cape Evans to Mc Murdo.

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-Our ship has dropped anchor

-and we can walk on land once more.

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-It was a strange experience.

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-I was walking

-like these creatures for a while.

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-Yes, despite the cold,

-the Antarctic is full of wildlife...

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-..especially penguins.

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-As Conor O'Brien once said,

-"Who would believe in penguins...

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-"..unless he had seen them?"

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-These are Adelie penguins

-and they're not scared of me at all.

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-There are 270,000 pairs

-and they've all mated.

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-When the eggs hatch, another

-270,000 penguins will be born!

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-This is the world's largest

-Adelie penguin hatchery.

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-Can you see the pink colour

-on the side of the mountain?

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-Nesting penguins

-are responsible for that.

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-They eat krill, which is pink,

-and stinks!

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-I've never seen so many birds

-in one place.

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-I could have watched them for hours.

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-Some people had been here

-before us, and left their mark.

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-This is one of the first buildings

-erected in the Antarctic.

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-It was built in 1899 by a Norwegian

-called Carsten Borchgrevink.

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-You've never heard of him,

-have you?

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-You've heard of Scott and Amundsen,

-haven't you?

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-Borchgrevink was the first person

-to build here...

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-..and he was one of the first

-people to stay here over the winter.

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-If Borchgrevink and his men

-hadn't been the first people...

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-..to stay here over the winter...

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-..who knows what Scott

-and the others would have done?

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-Borchgrevink deserves

-more recognition.

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-At least this hut will stand for

-years as a memorial to Borchgrevink.

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-While we got to know the penguins...

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-..the ship's staff

-prepared our supper.

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-The food on the Kapitan Klebnikov

-was wonderful.

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-We had a fresh salad every day.

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-I still don't know how

-they kept their lettuce fresh...

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-..when mine always goes limp

-after three days!

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-I wanted to be out on the deck.

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-Seeing thousands of penguins

-is an experience...

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-..but they were nothing

-compared to the icebergs.

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-They're incredible - some

-bright blue, carved intricately...

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-..some resembling

-fairy tale palaces...

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-..and some looking like Moby Dick.

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-One looked like this.

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-You only truly appreciate the size

-of the icebergs from the air.

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-Yes, they had helicopters

-on the ship.

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-These cliffs rise 100ft and more

-above the sea level.

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-Two-thirds of every iceberg

-is below sea level.

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-Back in the year 2000, a piece

-of ice broke off the Ross Ice Shelf.

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-It was huge - it was twice

-the length of Wales at the time.

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-It was the biggest recorded iceberg.

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-Guess what? I'm standing on it!

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-This is it, well, part of it -

-the B15A.

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-It's an incredible experience.

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-I'm standing on an iceberg -

-I never thought I'd do such a thing.

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-Even though it's smaller

-than it was...

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-..if it were placed over Wales...

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-..it would stretch

-from Aberystwyth to Newport.

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-We pass the Mount Erebus volcano

-as we head south.

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-We'd reached the real ice by now.

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-We'd be breaking through it

-all the way from now on.

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-There was something hypnotic

-about watching the ship...

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-..breaking through the ice.

-At times, its thickness was 15 feet.

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-The Kapitan Klebnikov broke through

-it like a knife through butter.

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-This is when I got really excited.

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-There were orcas - killer whales -

-following us.

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-We'd opened a perfect channel for

-the orcas to come for a breather...

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-..as they feasted on fish.

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-Better still for them if a penguin

-or seal happened to be dreaming.

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-I watched them watching us for ages.

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-With the sea frozen solid...

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-..the only way to leave the ship

-was by helicopter.

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-Even from the air,

-it's difficult to comprehend...

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-..the size of the Antarctic.

-But it is big - bigger than Europe.

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-This is another

-of the Antarctic's wonders...

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-..the dry valleys.

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-Many of you, like me...

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-..thought the Sahara was

-the driest place on this journey.

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-That's where we're both wrong.

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-Here, one of the Antarctic's

-dry valleys...

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-..is the driest place I'll ever see.

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-Captain Scott discovered

-these valleys in 1903.

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-The skeleton of this seal

-was there then.

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-It's been here for hundreds of years

-and it hasn't decayed at all.

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-These valleys haven't seen water

-for thousands of years...

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-..but water does pour

-from the glacier during the summer.

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-But it's still drier here

-than in the Sahara.

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-Russians are responsible

-for the ship and the helicopters.

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-They have a lot of experience

-dealing with ice.

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-The Kapitan Klebnikov is a regular

-visitor to the Antarctic.

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-100 Russians look after

-the ship and its passengers...

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-..and they regularly assess the ice

-and the weather on the bridge.

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-They also keep a close eye

-on the icebergs.

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-Further south,

-on the Cape Royds peninsula...

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-..is Shackleton's cabin.

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-From this cabin, in 1908,

-Shackleton's men...

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-..discovered the Magnetic

-South Pole for the first time.

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-More importantly, they set off

-for the Geographic South Pole.

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-They came within 156kms of it.

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-But Shackleton was wiser

-than his friend Scott.

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-He knew when to stop.

-He didn't have enough food...

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-..to reach the South Pole

-and return home safely.

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-Apsley Cherry-Garrard

-famously said...

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-.."For a joint scientific...

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-..and geographical piece

-of organisation give me Scott.

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-"For a winter journey, Wilson.

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-"For a dash to the Pole

-and nothing else, Amundsen.

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-"If I am in the devil of a hole

-and want to get out of it...

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-"..give me Shackleton every time."

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-Today, the cabin remains

-just as it was in 1908.

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-A New Zealand trust

-looks after all these cabins.

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-They're making sure

-they remain like this.

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-Due to the low temperature,

-nothing rots here...

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-..including these

-deer skin sleeping bags.

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-With everything just as it was...

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-..it's easy to imagine that these

-men have just gone for a walk...

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-..and they'll return at any moment.

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-888

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-888

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-On we went through the ice

-as we continued to head south.

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-After leaving Shackleton's cabin

-and Cape Royds...

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-..we set a course

-for the most famous cabin of all.

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-Here, on Cape Evans, is Captain

-Robert Falcon Scott's last cabin.

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-Bowers, Evans, Oates,

-Wilson and Scott...

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-..set off from that cabin

-on their journey to the South Pole.

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-In that cabin, their colleagues

-waited and waited...

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-..for them to return

-but they never did.

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-That is possibly

-the saddest building on Antarctica.

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-This is a picture of Scott

-celebrating his 43rd birthday...

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-..in June 1911.

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-This is the table around which

-they all sat almost a century ago.

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-This is the biological laboratory

-in 1911.

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-And here is the same laboratory

-as it is today.

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-This is Scott writing his diary

-beside his bed.

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-Like Shackleton's cabin,

-everything has been kept as it was.

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-It's amazing to see the type of

-items they took on an expedition.

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-Herbert Ponting's photographs

-are an excellent record of the era.

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-I've never believed in ghosts...

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-..but there's an eerie feeling

-in that cabin today.

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-The ice was so thick here,

-it was safe to walk on it.

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-The captain parked his ship

-and allowed us to go for a wander.

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-Some of the penguins

-had followed us through the water.

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-Now, they wanted to go

-for a wander, too.

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-For the first time, we could see the

-enormity of the Kapitan Klebnikov.

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-That's how it's spelt in Russian!

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-The wildlife wasn't the only thing

-to attract the photographers.

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-This is a tradition for Antarctic

-visitors - the polar plunge.

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-No - I didn't!

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-For starters, I don't look

-like that in a swimsuit...

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-..and secondly, the water's freezing

-- minus 1.7 degrees celsius.

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-You might get such a shock

-when you hit the water...

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-..you might forget

-to hold your breath.

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-Anyone who falls

-into the water here dies!

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-And on we went southwards.

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-After three weeks of travelling...

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-..we were approaching

-the southernmost point...

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-..we could reach by ship.

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-The ice was very thick here.

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-This is Mc Murdo Sound.

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-Over there is the American-owned

-Mc Murdo Station.

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-It was built in 1955.

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-For a while, it was home

-to the only nuclear station...

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-..that's ever been in Antarctica.

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-They took that back to the USA

-in 1972.

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-Today, Mc Murdo is a site

-for scientific research...

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-..and not a military presence.

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-That's the Discovery Hut.

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-It was built by Captain Scott

-and his men back in 1902...

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-..on their first expedition

-to the South Pole.

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-It wasn't a good hut -

-it was very cold inside.

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-They stayed on their ship instead.

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-In 1902, the only things here

-were the hut and the snow.

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-Look at it today!

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-This is Mc Murdo Station.

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-This is where the Americans

-carry out their scientific research.

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-There are 500 scientists here,

-doing what scientists do.

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-800 people are employed

-to look after them.

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-Not the prettiest of sights!

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-No one country owns the Antarctic.

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-But the Americans make sure

-that everyone knows they're there.

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-This chapel is one of the few

-attractive buildings in Mc Murdo.

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-It's appropriately named!

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-People need religion

-no matter where they live.

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-Maybe the need is greater

-in a place like this.

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-The church is open all day,

-every day.

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-There are two full-time

-chaplains here...

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-..one Protestant

-and one Roman Catholic.

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-This is the Erebus Chalice...

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-..the communion cup

-from James Clark Ross' ship.

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-He discovered the Ross Sea in 1841.

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-I didn't want to spend

-too much time in Mc Murdo.

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-I was quite happy

-to return to the Klebnikov.

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-By now, I was missing home.

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-Imagine my surprise when I realised

-we could send e-mails from the ship.

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-Vassili, the keeper of the

-computers, explained it all to me.

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-There are two systems.

-When you're this far south...

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-..only one satellite,

-the Inmasat, can be used.

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-It allows us to send and receive

-e-mails, faxes and phone calls...

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-..for a price!

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-My bill for the e-mails

-was over 100!

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-It was impossible to go

-any further...

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-..so we turned around

-and headed northwards.

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-It was nice to be back

-amongst the wildlife.

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-There was a group of professional

-naturalists on board.

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-One of them had found

-a dead penguin.

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-It was an opportunity for them

-to answer questions...

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-..about wildlife in the Antarctic.

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-It was dead today -

-it was still warm.

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-It's not stiff yet.

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-Kirsten had bags of patience.

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-..pursuing food with no return.

-It will not feed others' chicks.

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-Yes, the Antarctic's wildlife

-was unique and wonderful.

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-I was more interested

-in the ice, though.

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-The shapes, the colours,

-the patterns, everything about it.

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-As we left the Ross Sea, we had a

-chance to see the Ironside Glacier.

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-It was an amazing sight.

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-Having left Mc Murdo,

-we sailed past Cape Adare again...

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-..and headed for the Southern Ocean

-and Australia and Tasmania.

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-On the way, we stopped off

-at Macquarie Island.

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-After spending so much time

-surrounded by ice...

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-..with only blue and white colours

-around us...

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-..seeing the colours on

-Macquarie Island was quite a shock.

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-Macquarie is full of wildlife.

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-The stars are these king penguins -

-and they fully deserve the name.

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-Of all the penguins we saw,

-these were my favourites.

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-They are elegant,

-remarkably colourful...

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-..full of character

-and very curious.

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-They weren't scared of us at all.

-We became good friends!

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-When I woke up this morning

-and looked in the mirror...

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-..I thought, "Eugh! What a sight!"

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-But I feel quite attractive now

-sitting next to this thing!

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-And it stinks!

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-This is an elephant seal.

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-Isn't seal-aphant a better name!

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-On the other side of the island,

-there were a group of king penguins.

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-Only around 10,000 of them!

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-This is just one beach.

-There are more!

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-There were penguins

-of all ages here.

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-Kirsten Le Mar, one of

-the Klebnikov's naturalists...

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-..studied them for years.

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-She lived in that hut

-for a whole year...

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-..working for her research degree

-on penguins.

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-About 2,000,000 of these penguins

-live in the Antarctic.

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-They lay their eggs in November,

-early spring in the Antarctic...

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-..and hatch them standing up

-to keep the eggs warm.

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-They're pretty and very clever.

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-That's it. I'll be heading

-for Hobart, Tasmania next.

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-That's where we part company

-with the Kapitan Klebnikov...

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-..and fly on to our

-next destination, New Zealand.

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-I feel quite sad about it all.

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-Not that I don't want

-to visit New Zealand...

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-..but I'll be leaving Antarctica.

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-It's a remarkable place.

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-I know now why Scott and Shackleton

-wanted to return all the time.

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-It's like a magnet that attracts you

-- I want to return here already.

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-Why? Well, the ice - its colours,

-its sound and its shapes.

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-The beauty of the place

-and the enormity of the place.

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-Oh, and the wildlife.

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-How could I forget you?

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-It's been like one long dream.

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-It's a dream I'll never forget.

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-Will I?

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-Next week, I'll be in New Zealand...

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-..representing Wales

-in a rather strange competition...

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-..meeting the Maoris

-and being smoked!

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-S4C subtitles by Rh Sion Morgan

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