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-Look at it. | 0:00:43 | 0:00:44 | |
-Listen to it. | 0:00:45 | 0:00:47 | |
-I don't think I've ever visited -somewhere as incredible as this. | 0:00:47 | 0:00:52 | |
-I'm speechless. | 0:00:52 | 0:00:54 | |
-Just look at it. | 0:00:55 | 0:00:57 | |
-After a long journey from New -Zealand, over the Southern Ocean... | 0:01:04 | 0:01:09 | |
-..I've reached Cape Adare -in the Antarctic. | 0:01:09 | 0:01:12 | |
-From there, -I hope to break through the ice... | 0:01:12 | 0:01:15 | |
-..past Mount Erebus, Cape Royds -and Cape Evans to Mc Murdo. | 0:01:15 | 0:01:19 | |
-Our ship has dropped anchor -and we can walk on land once more. | 0:01:36 | 0:01:40 | |
-It was a strange experience. | 0:01:43 | 0:01:45 | |
-I was walking -like these creatures for a while. | 0:01:45 | 0:01:48 | |
-Yes, despite the cold, -the Antarctic is full of wildlife... | 0:01:48 | 0:01:53 | |
-..especially penguins. | 0:01:53 | 0:01:55 | |
-As Conor O'Brien once said, -"Who would believe in penguins... | 0:01:55 | 0:02:00 | |
-"..unless he had seen them?" | 0:02:00 | 0:02:02 | |
-These are Adelie penguins -and they're not scared of me at all. | 0:02:02 | 0:02:06 | |
-There are 270,000 pairs -and they've all mated. | 0:02:07 | 0:02:12 | |
-When the eggs hatch, another -270,000 penguins will be born! | 0:02:12 | 0:02:17 | |
-This is the world's largest -Adelie penguin hatchery. | 0:02:17 | 0:02:23 | |
-Can you see the pink colour -on the side of the mountain? | 0:02:25 | 0:02:28 | |
-Nesting penguins -are responsible for that. | 0:02:28 | 0:02:31 | |
-They eat krill, which is pink, -and stinks! | 0:02:32 | 0:02:34 | |
-I've never seen so many birds -in one place. | 0:02:35 | 0:02:37 | |
-I could have watched them for hours. | 0:02:37 | 0:02:41 | |
-Some people had been here -before us, and left their mark. | 0:02:46 | 0:02:49 | |
-This is one of the first buildings -erected in the Antarctic. | 0:02:52 | 0:02:56 | |
-It was built in 1899 by a Norwegian -called Carsten Borchgrevink. | 0:02:56 | 0:03:01 | |
-You've never heard of him, -have you? | 0:03:01 | 0:03:04 | |
-You've heard of Scott and Amundsen, -haven't you? | 0:03:04 | 0:03:07 | |
-Borchgrevink was the first person -to build here... | 0:03:08 | 0:03:11 | |
-..and he was one of the first -people to stay here over the winter. | 0:03:11 | 0:03:16 | |
-If Borchgrevink and his men -hadn't been the first people... | 0:03:16 | 0:03:22 | |
-..to stay here over the winter... | 0:03:22 | 0:03:26 | |
-..who knows what Scott -and the others would have done? | 0:03:26 | 0:03:30 | |
-Borchgrevink deserves -more recognition. | 0:03:30 | 0:03:33 | |
-At least this hut will stand for -years as a memorial to Borchgrevink. | 0:03:33 | 0:03:38 | |
-While we got to know the penguins... | 0:03:48 | 0:03:51 | |
-..the ship's staff -prepared our supper. | 0:03:51 | 0:03:54 | |
-The food on the Kapitan Klebnikov -was wonderful. | 0:03:55 | 0:03:58 | |
-We had a fresh salad every day. | 0:03:58 | 0:04:02 | |
-I still don't know how -they kept their lettuce fresh... | 0:04:02 | 0:04:06 | |
-..when mine always goes limp -after three days! | 0:04:06 | 0:04:11 | |
-I wanted to be out on the deck. | 0:04:16 | 0:04:18 | |
-Seeing thousands of penguins -is an experience... | 0:04:19 | 0:04:21 | |
-..but they were nothing -compared to the icebergs. | 0:04:22 | 0:04:26 | |
-They're incredible - some -bright blue, carved intricately... | 0:04:26 | 0:04:30 | |
-..some resembling -fairy tale palaces... | 0:04:30 | 0:04:33 | |
-..and some looking like Moby Dick. | 0:04:33 | 0:04:35 | |
-One looked like this. | 0:04:36 | 0:04:38 | |
-You only truly appreciate the size -of the icebergs from the air. | 0:04:38 | 0:04:43 | |
-Yes, they had helicopters -on the ship. | 0:04:43 | 0:04:46 | |
-These cliffs rise 100ft and more -above the sea level. | 0:04:47 | 0:04:52 | |
-Two-thirds of every iceberg -is below sea level. | 0:04:52 | 0:04:56 | |
-Back in the year 2000, a piece -of ice broke off the Ross Ice Shelf. | 0:05:06 | 0:05:12 | |
-It was huge - it was twice -the length of Wales at the time. | 0:05:14 | 0:05:18 | |
-It was the biggest recorded iceberg. | 0:05:18 | 0:05:22 | |
-Guess what? I'm standing on it! | 0:05:22 | 0:05:25 | |
-This is it, well, part of it - -the B15A. | 0:05:25 | 0:05:29 | |
-It's an incredible experience. | 0:05:29 | 0:05:31 | |
-I'm standing on an iceberg - -I never thought I'd do such a thing. | 0:05:31 | 0:05:35 | |
-Even though it's smaller -than it was... | 0:05:36 | 0:05:38 | |
-..if it were placed over Wales... | 0:05:39 | 0:05:41 | |
-..it would stretch -from Aberystwyth to Newport. | 0:05:41 | 0:05:44 | |
-We pass the Mount Erebus volcano -as we head south. | 0:05:50 | 0:05:55 | |
-We'd reached the real ice by now. | 0:05:55 | 0:05:58 | |
-We'd be breaking through it -all the way from now on. | 0:05:58 | 0:06:01 | |
-There was something hypnotic -about watching the ship... | 0:06:10 | 0:06:14 | |
-..breaking through the ice. -At times, its thickness was 15 feet. | 0:06:14 | 0:06:18 | |
-The Kapitan Klebnikov broke through -it like a knife through butter. | 0:06:19 | 0:06:23 | |
-This is when I got really excited. | 0:06:28 | 0:06:31 | |
-There were orcas - killer whales - -following us. | 0:06:31 | 0:06:34 | |
-We'd opened a perfect channel for -the orcas to come for a breather... | 0:06:35 | 0:06:39 | |
-..as they feasted on fish. | 0:06:39 | 0:06:40 | |
-Better still for them if a penguin -or seal happened to be dreaming. | 0:06:41 | 0:06:46 | |
-I watched them watching us for ages. | 0:06:46 | 0:06:49 | |
-With the sea frozen solid... | 0:06:55 | 0:06:57 | |
-..the only way to leave the ship -was by helicopter. | 0:06:57 | 0:07:00 | |
-Even from the air, -it's difficult to comprehend... | 0:07:06 | 0:07:09 | |
-..the size of the Antarctic. -But it is big - bigger than Europe. | 0:07:10 | 0:07:14 | |
-This is another -of the Antarctic's wonders... | 0:07:18 | 0:07:21 | |
-..the dry valleys. | 0:07:21 | 0:07:23 | |
-Many of you, like me... | 0:07:27 | 0:07:30 | |
-..thought the Sahara was -the driest place on this journey. | 0:07:30 | 0:07:35 | |
-That's where we're both wrong. | 0:07:35 | 0:07:37 | |
-Here, one of the Antarctic's -dry valleys... | 0:07:37 | 0:07:40 | |
-..is the driest place I'll ever see. | 0:07:41 | 0:07:43 | |
-Captain Scott discovered -these valleys in 1903. | 0:07:43 | 0:07:49 | |
-The skeleton of this seal -was there then. | 0:07:49 | 0:07:52 | |
-It's been here for hundreds of years -and it hasn't decayed at all. | 0:07:52 | 0:07:56 | |
-These valleys haven't seen water -for thousands of years... | 0:07:57 | 0:08:01 | |
-..but water does pour -from the glacier during the summer. | 0:08:01 | 0:08:05 | |
-But it's still drier here -than in the Sahara. | 0:08:05 | 0:08:09 | |
-Russians are responsible -for the ship and the helicopters. | 0:08:11 | 0:08:15 | |
-They have a lot of experience -dealing with ice. | 0:08:15 | 0:08:19 | |
-The Kapitan Klebnikov is a regular -visitor to the Antarctic. | 0:08:19 | 0:08:23 | |
-100 Russians look after -the ship and its passengers... | 0:08:24 | 0:08:27 | |
-..and they regularly assess the ice -and the weather on the bridge. | 0:08:27 | 0:08:32 | |
-They also keep a close eye -on the icebergs. | 0:08:34 | 0:08:38 | |
-Further south, -on the Cape Royds peninsula... | 0:08:49 | 0:08:52 | |
-..is Shackleton's cabin. | 0:08:52 | 0:08:55 | |
-From this cabin, in 1908, -Shackleton's men... | 0:08:59 | 0:09:02 | |
-..discovered the Magnetic -South Pole for the first time. | 0:09:03 | 0:09:06 | |
-More importantly, they set off -for the Geographic South Pole. | 0:09:07 | 0:09:11 | |
-They came within 156kms of it. | 0:09:11 | 0:09:13 | |
-But Shackleton was wiser -than his friend Scott. | 0:09:14 | 0:09:17 | |
-He knew when to stop. -He didn't have enough food... | 0:09:17 | 0:09:21 | |
-..to reach the South Pole -and return home safely. | 0:09:21 | 0:09:24 | |
-Apsley Cherry-Garrard -famously said... | 0:09:25 | 0:09:27 | |
-.."For a joint scientific... | 0:09:27 | 0:09:29 | |
-..and geographical piece -of organisation give me Scott. | 0:09:29 | 0:09:33 | |
-"For a winter journey, Wilson. | 0:09:33 | 0:09:35 | |
-"For a dash to the Pole -and nothing else, Amundsen. | 0:09:35 | 0:09:38 | |
-"If I am in the devil of a hole -and want to get out of it... | 0:09:39 | 0:09:42 | |
-"..give me Shackleton every time." | 0:09:42 | 0:09:44 | |
-Today, the cabin remains -just as it was in 1908. | 0:09:45 | 0:09:49 | |
-A New Zealand trust -looks after all these cabins. | 0:09:49 | 0:09:54 | |
-They're making sure -they remain like this. | 0:09:54 | 0:09:58 | |
-Due to the low temperature, -nothing rots here... | 0:09:58 | 0:10:01 | |
-..including these -deer skin sleeping bags. | 0:10:02 | 0:10:05 | |
-With everything just as it was... | 0:10:17 | 0:10:20 | |
-..it's easy to imagine that these -men have just gone for a walk... | 0:10:20 | 0:10:24 | |
-..and they'll return at any moment. | 0:10:24 | 0:10:27 | |
-888 | 0:10:38 | 0:10:38 | |
-888 | 0:10:38 | 0:10:40 | |
-On we went through the ice -as we continued to head south. | 0:10:49 | 0:10:53 | |
-After leaving Shackleton's cabin -and Cape Royds... | 0:10:57 | 0:11:01 | |
-..we set a course -for the most famous cabin of all. | 0:11:01 | 0:11:05 | |
-Here, on Cape Evans, is Captain -Robert Falcon Scott's last cabin. | 0:11:05 | 0:11:11 | |
-Bowers, Evans, Oates, -Wilson and Scott... | 0:11:15 | 0:11:21 | |
-..set off from that cabin -on their journey to the South Pole. | 0:11:21 | 0:11:25 | |
-In that cabin, their colleagues -waited and waited... | 0:11:26 | 0:11:30 | |
-..for them to return -but they never did. | 0:11:30 | 0:11:33 | |
-That is possibly -the saddest building on Antarctica. | 0:11:33 | 0:11:38 | |
-This is a picture of Scott -celebrating his 43rd birthday... | 0:11:41 | 0:11:45 | |
-..in June 1911. | 0:11:45 | 0:11:47 | |
-This is the table around which -they all sat almost a century ago. | 0:11:51 | 0:11:56 | |
-This is the biological laboratory -in 1911. | 0:11:57 | 0:12:01 | |
-And here is the same laboratory -as it is today. | 0:12:02 | 0:12:06 | |
-This is Scott writing his diary -beside his bed. | 0:12:09 | 0:12:12 | |
-Like Shackleton's cabin, -everything has been kept as it was. | 0:12:21 | 0:12:25 | |
-It's amazing to see the type of -items they took on an expedition. | 0:12:25 | 0:12:30 | |
-Herbert Ponting's photographs -are an excellent record of the era. | 0:12:41 | 0:12:45 | |
-I've never believed in ghosts... | 0:12:47 | 0:12:49 | |
-..but there's an eerie feeling -in that cabin today. | 0:12:49 | 0:12:53 | |
-The ice was so thick here, -it was safe to walk on it. | 0:12:58 | 0:13:02 | |
-The captain parked his ship -and allowed us to go for a wander. | 0:13:02 | 0:13:07 | |
-Some of the penguins -had followed us through the water. | 0:13:11 | 0:13:15 | |
-Now, they wanted to go -for a wander, too. | 0:13:17 | 0:13:21 | |
-For the first time, we could see the -enormity of the Kapitan Klebnikov. | 0:13:21 | 0:13:26 | |
-That's how it's spelt in Russian! | 0:13:26 | 0:13:28 | |
-The wildlife wasn't the only thing -to attract the photographers. | 0:13:29 | 0:13:33 | |
-This is a tradition for Antarctic -visitors - the polar plunge. | 0:13:33 | 0:13:38 | |
-No - I didn't! | 0:13:38 | 0:13:40 | |
-For starters, I don't look -like that in a swimsuit... | 0:13:40 | 0:13:44 | |
-..and secondly, the water's freezing -- minus 1.7 degrees celsius. | 0:13:44 | 0:13:49 | |
-You might get such a shock -when you hit the water... | 0:13:49 | 0:13:52 | |
-..you might forget -to hold your breath. | 0:13:53 | 0:13:56 | |
-Anyone who falls -into the water here dies! | 0:13:56 | 0:13:59 | |
-And on we went southwards. | 0:13:59 | 0:14:01 | |
-After three weeks of travelling... | 0:14:01 | 0:14:03 | |
-..we were approaching -the southernmost point... | 0:14:03 | 0:14:06 | |
-..we could reach by ship. | 0:14:06 | 0:14:08 | |
-The ice was very thick here. | 0:14:08 | 0:14:11 | |
-This is Mc Murdo Sound. | 0:14:12 | 0:14:15 | |
-Over there is the American-owned -Mc Murdo Station. | 0:14:16 | 0:14:20 | |
-It was built in 1955. | 0:14:20 | 0:14:22 | |
-For a while, it was home -to the only nuclear station... | 0:14:22 | 0:14:26 | |
-..that's ever been in Antarctica. | 0:14:26 | 0:14:28 | |
-They took that back to the USA -in 1972. | 0:14:29 | 0:14:31 | |
-Today, Mc Murdo is a site -for scientific research... | 0:14:31 | 0:14:36 | |
-..and not a military presence. | 0:14:36 | 0:14:38 | |
-That's the Discovery Hut. | 0:14:41 | 0:14:43 | |
-It was built by Captain Scott -and his men back in 1902... | 0:14:43 | 0:14:46 | |
-..on their first expedition -to the South Pole. | 0:14:47 | 0:14:50 | |
-It wasn't a good hut - -it was very cold inside. | 0:14:50 | 0:14:53 | |
-They stayed on their ship instead. | 0:14:53 | 0:14:56 | |
-In 1902, the only things here -were the hut and the snow. | 0:14:56 | 0:15:00 | |
-Look at it today! | 0:15:01 | 0:15:02 | |
-This is Mc Murdo Station. | 0:15:03 | 0:15:06 | |
-This is where the Americans -carry out their scientific research. | 0:15:06 | 0:15:11 | |
-There are 500 scientists here, -doing what scientists do. | 0:15:11 | 0:15:15 | |
-800 people are employed -to look after them. | 0:15:15 | 0:15:19 | |
-Not the prettiest of sights! | 0:15:19 | 0:15:21 | |
-No one country owns the Antarctic. | 0:15:23 | 0:15:26 | |
-But the Americans make sure -that everyone knows they're there. | 0:15:26 | 0:15:30 | |
-This chapel is one of the few -attractive buildings in Mc Murdo. | 0:15:33 | 0:15:38 | |
-It's appropriately named! | 0:15:38 | 0:15:40 | |
-People need religion -no matter where they live. | 0:15:40 | 0:15:43 | |
-Maybe the need is greater -in a place like this. | 0:15:44 | 0:15:47 | |
-The church is open all day, -every day. | 0:15:47 | 0:15:49 | |
-There are two full-time -chaplains here... | 0:15:50 | 0:15:53 | |
-..one Protestant -and one Roman Catholic. | 0:15:53 | 0:15:55 | |
-This is the Erebus Chalice... | 0:16:00 | 0:16:03 | |
-..the communion cup -from James Clark Ross' ship. | 0:16:03 | 0:16:06 | |
-He discovered the Ross Sea in 1841. | 0:16:07 | 0:16:09 | |
-I didn't want to spend -too much time in Mc Murdo. | 0:16:09 | 0:16:13 | |
-I was quite happy -to return to the Klebnikov. | 0:16:13 | 0:16:16 | |
-By now, I was missing home. | 0:16:17 | 0:16:20 | |
-Imagine my surprise when I realised -we could send e-mails from the ship. | 0:16:21 | 0:16:25 | |
-Vassili, the keeper of the -computers, explained it all to me. | 0:16:25 | 0:16:29 | |
-There are two systems. -When you're this far south... | 0:16:33 | 0:16:36 | |
-..only one satellite, -the Inmasat, can be used. | 0:16:36 | 0:16:39 | |
-It allows us to send and receive -e-mails, faxes and phone calls... | 0:16:40 | 0:16:46 | |
-..for a price! | 0:16:46 | 0:16:48 | |
-My bill for the e-mails -was over 100! | 0:16:48 | 0:16:52 | |
-It was impossible to go -any further... | 0:16:54 | 0:16:57 | |
-..so we turned around -and headed northwards. | 0:16:57 | 0:17:00 | |
-It was nice to be back -amongst the wildlife. | 0:17:01 | 0:17:04 | |
-There was a group of professional -naturalists on board. | 0:17:12 | 0:17:16 | |
-One of them had found -a dead penguin. | 0:17:16 | 0:17:19 | |
-It was an opportunity for them -to answer questions... | 0:17:19 | 0:17:22 | |
-..about wildlife in the Antarctic. | 0:17:22 | 0:17:24 | |
-It was dead today - -it was still warm. | 0:17:24 | 0:17:27 | |
-It's not stiff yet. | 0:17:27 | 0:17:29 | |
-Kirsten had bags of patience. | 0:17:29 | 0:17:31 | |
-..pursuing food with no return. -It will not feed others' chicks. | 0:17:32 | 0:17:36 | |
-Yes, the Antarctic's wildlife -was unique and wonderful. | 0:17:37 | 0:17:41 | |
-I was more interested -in the ice, though. | 0:17:42 | 0:17:45 | |
-The shapes, the colours, -the patterns, everything about it. | 0:17:45 | 0:17:49 | |
-As we left the Ross Sea, we had a -chance to see the Ironside Glacier. | 0:17:49 | 0:17:53 | |
-It was an amazing sight. | 0:17:54 | 0:17:56 | |
-Having left Mc Murdo, -we sailed past Cape Adare again... | 0:18:59 | 0:19:03 | |
-..and headed for the Southern Ocean -and Australia and Tasmania. | 0:19:03 | 0:19:07 | |
-On the way, we stopped off -at Macquarie Island. | 0:19:08 | 0:19:11 | |
-After spending so much time -surrounded by ice... | 0:19:13 | 0:19:16 | |
-..with only blue and white colours -around us... | 0:19:16 | 0:19:19 | |
-..seeing the colours on -Macquarie Island was quite a shock. | 0:19:20 | 0:19:24 | |
-Macquarie is full of wildlife. | 0:19:32 | 0:19:35 | |
-The stars are these king penguins - -and they fully deserve the name. | 0:19:36 | 0:19:40 | |
-Of all the penguins we saw, -these were my favourites. | 0:19:41 | 0:19:44 | |
-They are elegant, -remarkably colourful... | 0:19:45 | 0:19:47 | |
-..full of character -and very curious. | 0:19:48 | 0:19:50 | |
-They weren't scared of us at all. -We became good friends! | 0:19:51 | 0:19:54 | |
-When I woke up this morning -and looked in the mirror... | 0:20:07 | 0:20:10 | |
-..I thought, "Eugh! What a sight!" | 0:20:10 | 0:20:12 | |
-But I feel quite attractive now -sitting next to this thing! | 0:20:12 | 0:20:17 | |
-And it stinks! | 0:20:20 | 0:20:21 | |
-This is an elephant seal. | 0:20:23 | 0:20:26 | |
-Isn't seal-aphant a better name! | 0:20:26 | 0:20:29 | |
-On the other side of the island, -there were a group of king penguins. | 0:20:31 | 0:20:36 | |
-Only around 10,000 of them! | 0:20:36 | 0:20:38 | |
-This is just one beach. -There are more! | 0:20:39 | 0:20:42 | |
-There were penguins -of all ages here. | 0:20:47 | 0:20:50 | |
-Kirsten Le Mar, one of -the Klebnikov's naturalists... | 0:20:51 | 0:20:55 | |
-..studied them for years. | 0:20:55 | 0:20:57 | |
-She lived in that hut -for a whole year... | 0:20:57 | 0:21:00 | |
-..working for her research degree -on penguins. | 0:21:00 | 0:21:04 | |
-About 2,000,000 of these penguins -live in the Antarctic. | 0:21:04 | 0:21:08 | |
-They lay their eggs in November, -early spring in the Antarctic... | 0:21:09 | 0:21:13 | |
-..and hatch them standing up -to keep the eggs warm. | 0:21:13 | 0:21:17 | |
-They're pretty and very clever. | 0:21:17 | 0:21:19 | |
-That's it. I'll be heading -for Hobart, Tasmania next. | 0:21:39 | 0:21:43 | |
-That's where we part company -with the Kapitan Klebnikov... | 0:21:43 | 0:21:47 | |
-..and fly on to our -next destination, New Zealand. | 0:21:47 | 0:21:51 | |
-I feel quite sad about it all. | 0:21:51 | 0:21:53 | |
-Not that I don't want -to visit New Zealand... | 0:21:53 | 0:21:57 | |
-..but I'll be leaving Antarctica. | 0:21:57 | 0:21:59 | |
-It's a remarkable place. | 0:22:00 | 0:22:02 | |
-I know now why Scott and Shackleton -wanted to return all the time. | 0:22:02 | 0:22:06 | |
-It's like a magnet that attracts you -- I want to return here already. | 0:22:06 | 0:22:11 | |
-Why? Well, the ice - its colours, -its sound and its shapes. | 0:22:11 | 0:22:19 | |
-The beauty of the place -and the enormity of the place. | 0:22:20 | 0:22:24 | |
-Oh, and the wildlife. | 0:22:24 | 0:22:28 | |
-How could I forget you? | 0:22:28 | 0:22:30 | |
-It's been like one long dream. | 0:22:31 | 0:22:34 | |
-It's a dream I'll never forget. | 0:22:35 | 0:22:38 | |
-Will I? | 0:22:39 | 0:22:41 | |
-Next week, I'll be in New Zealand... | 0:22:45 | 0:22:48 | |
-..representing Wales -in a rather strange competition... | 0:22:49 | 0:22:53 | |
-..meeting the Maoris -and being smoked! | 0:22:53 | 0:22:56 | |
-S4C subtitles by Rh Sion Morgan | 0:23:00 | 0:23:03 |