Borneo Ar y Lein


Borneo

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-888

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-I've met many interesting people

-on my travels around the world.

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-These creatures

-are the loveliest of all.

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-I'm in Borneo, the country of the

-orangutans. Welcome to Ar y Lein.

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-888

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-888

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-888

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-888

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-I'm continuing my journey

-along the equator.

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-I've reached Borneo.

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-It's a huge leap from

-the Galapagos Islands to Borneo...

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-..the third largest island

-in the world.

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-The island consists

-of Brunei, Malaysia and Indonesia.

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-The equator

-goes right through Indonesia...

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-..which is where I am this week.

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-It seems I'll be living on bananas

-and fish during the near future.

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-I said I was in Borneo.

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-There's no mention of Borneo

-on this map of Indonesia.

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-This is the island the British

-have always called Borneo.

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-But in this green sector,

-in Indonesia...

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-..it's called Kalimantan.

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-It's always been Kalimantan

-to local people.

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-I'm in the capital city of Samarinda

-on the banks of the river Mahakam.

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-The Mahakam is the busiest river

-in east Kalimantan.

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-The transport system

-isn't great here.

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-The rivers offer the best and

-cheapest forms of travel and trade.

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-The wood, the oil and the coal...

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-..the main local industries,

-are transported on ships.

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-This is also how local traders

-bring food into the city.

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-This is Samarinda's primary market,

-right in the city centre.

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-There's a good choice of fish.

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-The size and quality

-of the vegetables...

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-..and fruit highlight

-the fertility of the land.

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-Then again,

-a lot is imported from New Zealand.

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-It's wet here and floods are

-a common occurrence on low land.

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-Coming from Wales, I'm used to that!

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-Over 500,000 people

-live in Samarinda.

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-This is the most densely-populated

-city in east Kalimantan.

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-And the one with most motorbikes.

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-This is the most modern and

-industrial part of Kalimantan...

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-..but old traditions, such as

-weaving, are still carried out.

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-Weaving is popular here,

-as it was in Ecuador.

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-The materials used here

-are more delicate.

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-They use silk instead of wool.

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-It takes years to master the craft,

-as Ibu Assegaf explained to me.

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-This is what women do at home when

-they're not cooking or cleaning.

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-She's been weaving for 30 years...

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-..and it still takes her 20 days

-to weave one sarong.

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-She allowed me to have a go at it.

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-I'm longer than you!

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-My legs are longer!

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-It's one of these things

-which looks easy until you try it.

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-This is so complicated.

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-She had the patience of Job...

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-..but I had no idea

-what I was doing.

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-Sorry!

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-I feel like a baby

-sitting in a baby seat!

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-I didn't last long there...

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-..so I accepted her invitation

-to wear a sarong.

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-There was plenty of material

-to go around... just!

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-Does it accentuate my waist?

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-Nice? What do you think?

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-No, I didn't buy it.

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-I moved on to meet the people

-I wanted to meet the most...

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-..the Dayaks, and

-to stay in one of their longhouses.

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-As the crow flies, Tanjung Isuy

-isn't far from Samarinda.

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-But we weren't flying with crows!

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-We're on our way to see the Dayaks.

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-It's a long journey and we'll need

-some food on the journey.

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-We're loading up the car -

-bananas, fish... Wa-hey!

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-We almost lost the fish!

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-Let's close the boot.

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-One, two, three.

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-The journey went well early on

-and we enjoyed the scenery.

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-Then it started raining...

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-..heavily!

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-After seven hours,

-we were still driving... and lost!

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-It wasn't a road to be on

-in the dark.

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-We finally reached our destination.

-All I wanted to do was go to bed...

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-..but I had to help cook the supper.

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-I was put off by the fact

-that the fish...

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-..were still alive

-when they were cleaned.

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-I offered to gut the others

-if they were killed first.

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-Someone will have to clean that!

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-Cloth please!

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-I then realised why they were kept

-alive until the final moment.

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-Their insides would swell

-after only a few moments.

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-The knife didn't help me either -

-or the fish.

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-It was like grabbing a bar of soap!

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-Good enough!

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-I washed my hands for ages.

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-Here's the 'piece de resistance' -

-the fish which travelled with us.

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-We're also having

-chicken and lobster.

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-Bon appetit.

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-We don't bother with knives

-and forks.

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-We eat in the traditional way...

-with our hands!

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-I like eating like this. How do

-you do this without making a mess?

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-The following morning, I set off

-with the head of the Dayak family.

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-He'd invited me to help with his

-everyday work - gathering rubber.

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-The Dayaks have always relied

-on nature to earn a living.

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-They're known for collecting

-materials from the forests...

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-..including rubber.

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-Indonesia is one of the largest

-rubber producers in the world...

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-..after the British planted

-rubber seeds here years ago.

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-Bapak Rasikal Akung treats

-200 rubber trees every day.

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-The first job is to scrape a circle

-around the trunk with his knife.

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-This releases

-the fresh white rubber...

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-..which drips into cans and bottles.

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-This is some sort of chemical waste.

-He pours it into the rubber...

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-..to harden it.

-It's my turn to have a go.

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-Yeah? No?

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-It's odourless.

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-Well done.

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-Another 198 trees to go!

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-After treating the trees...

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-..the hardened rubber

-is extracted from the cans.

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-This is what rubber looks like

-after hardening for a week.

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-He sells it like this.

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-He receives 50p per kilo.

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-He makes eighty kilos a week.

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-I can't work out

-how much he earns in a week.

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-It's not much.

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-40 a week. A good wage

-in this part of the world.

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-When I returned to the house,

-the family had arranged...

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-..a welcoming ceremony for me.

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-He asked if I was the bearer

-of good news. Yes, I replied.

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-I knew I had to cut this line but I

-had no idea what would happen next.

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-Uh-oh!

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-TRADITIONAL DANCE MUSIC

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-Right, what happens now?

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-Oy! Nobody mentioned that!

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-Baring my stomach?

-I never bare my stomach.

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-I was just glad I was on my back,

-wet nest on my head or not.

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-The cameraman was in stitches!

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-I had been spiritually

-and physically cleansed.

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-I know this sounds stupid

-but I did feel better afterwards.

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-Lighter somehow.

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-The Dayaks

-are the native population of Borneo.

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-There are 200 different tribes,

-each with its own language.

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-They used to behead their enemies

-and live in longhouses like these.

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-Their beheading days are over

-and thanks to government grants...

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-..the longhouses

-are rented to tourists.

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-Here, you'll find women selling

-traditional crafts and mod cons.

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-It wasn't what I'd expected.

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-Everyone needs to make a living

-though.

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-I slept here last night.

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-Under my mosquito net.

-I expected this...

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-..but I didn't expect

-a mattress and a bed.

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-I'd expected to sleep

-on the floor...

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-..and do my business in the jungle!

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-There are showers and toilets here.

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-I can even power my laptop

-using the electricity.

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-One thing made it feel

-like a real experience though.

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-The cockerel waking us up at 4.00am.

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-Their way of life is very healthy.

-They live to a ripe old age.

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-And that's it from me, the Dayaks

-and this man who's 130 years old.

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-After the break,

-I'll be joined by some orangutans.

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-888

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-888

-

-888

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-No, you're right.

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-These aren't orangutans.

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-I've stopped off at a crocodile farm

-on my way to see the orangutans.

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-There are over 1,200 crocodiles

-on this farm near Samboja.

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-They are bred for their skin

-and meat.

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-These are babies!

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-These are the big ones.

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-I wouldn't like to be in his shoes.

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-Hasn't anyone told him that more

-people are killed by crocodiles...

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-..than any other creature

-in the world?

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-They're only fed twice a week.

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-Chicken is on the menu today.

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-I don't think they need gravy.

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-How can you tell the difference

-between crocodiles and alligators?

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-A crocodile's mouth is thinner...

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-..and you can see the two front

-teeth when its mouth is closed.

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-Interesting, eh?

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-I then went for a walk

-with the manager.

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-He told me that crocodile farms

-are a good way of making money.

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-There's huge demand for crocodile

-meat on the international market.

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-People are willing to pay

-high prices for it.

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-There's also demand

-for crocodile skin.

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-The most popular items in the shop

-are crocodile penises!

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-Some people think that these

-have Viagra-like characteristics.

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-I don't know -

-this one looks less than interested!

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-You're a big boy!

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-Ooh, cheeky!

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-I know some of you think

-that farming crocodiles is cruel.

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-Personally, I don't think it's

-any different to farming cattle.

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-We use the skin and the meat

-of cattle.

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-For the first time in my life,

-I'm going to eat crocodile meat.

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-With chilli. Here goes.

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-Crocodile.

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-Well done.

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-It's lovely.

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-The chillies are hot, too.

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-One of the greatest problems

-in Kalimantan and Borneo...

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-..is jungle deforestation.

-They sell the wood...

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-..but more importantly, they plant

-palm trees in their place...

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-..to make edible vegetable oil

-for people like you and I.

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-But this policy has an adverse

-affect on the animals.

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-Where are they supposed to go?

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-One place which tries to answer

-the problem...

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-..is Samboja Lodge,

-a conservation project...

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-..set up by the Borneo Orangutan

-Survival Foundation or BOS.

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-Samboja Lodge

-was established in 2006...

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-..when BOS planted over

-500,000 trees in 1,000 hectares...

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-..to create a natural

-training centre for the orangutans.

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-Today, over 212 orangutans

-live in Samboja Lodge.

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-Most of the orangutans in Samboja...

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-..were either given to the lodge

-by people keeping them as pets...

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-..or taken

-by the forestry commission...

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-..from people who were keeping them.

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-I'm not going to touch one of

-the orangutans - we're not allowed.

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-They're wild animals

-and they belong in the wilderness.

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-They are kept here

-and taught four steps...

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-..before they're ready

-to return to the forests.

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-I'm going to see

-three of those steps.

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-I had to wear the mask in case I'd

-pass a disease on to the orangutans.

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-That's not as stupid as it sounds.

-97% of our DNA...

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-..matches the DNA of the orangutans.

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-Yes, the similarity is obvious!

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-He doesn't have to wear a mask

-because they're used to him.

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-After reaching Samboja, the

-orangutans are kept in quarantine.

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-They have often caught infectious

-diseases such as hepatitis.

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-They are kept apart

-from other animals.

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-When they're free of infection,

-they're moved to the social cages...

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-..where they're taught

-how to feed themselves...

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-..mix with other orangutans

-and sharpen their teeth.

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-The younger orangutans

-which arrive here...

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-..go through an additional process.

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-They don't know

-how to be orangutans.

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-They have no mothers to teach them.

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-They are taken to climbing schools

-by their keepers...

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-..people who more-or-less

-become surrogate mothers to them.

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-They help them learn

-how to climb trees...

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-..even though they only want

-a little cwtsh some of the time!

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-As they grow,

-they gain in confidence...

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-..and climb like... monkeys!

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-There you go!

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-I'm not sure if he'll be able

-to catch you.

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-Every now and then they fall.

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-They learn from their mistakes.

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-We release the orangutans when

-they have completed the four steps.

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-Forests are becoming scarce

-because of deforestation.

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-It's very difficult

-to find a home for them all.

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-It's not hard to befriend an

-orangutan - that's half the problem.

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-The other half

-is a shortage of places to live.

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-The work they do here is very

-important. I wish them all the best.

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-On we go, all the way to

-the western coast of Kalimantan...

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-..to Pontianak,

-the capital of west Kalimantan.

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-Pontianak is on the banks...

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-..of the longest river in Indonesia,

-the Kapuas.

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-Life revolves around the river here.

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-I'm going on a journey

-down the river...

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-..to see the city

-at the break of dawn.

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-Some of the people

-live on the river here...

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-..which can be very handy!

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-It's well worth travelling across

-the river to the open-air market.

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-It's a busy place

-and sells all kinds of fish.

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-Some dried, like these,

-and some fresh from the river.

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-The market attracts

-all kinds of fish lovers.

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-The city centre is far more modern.

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-It's all industry and traffic

-and very busy.

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-This is one

-of the main educational centres.

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-You'll find

-thousands of students here.

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-Everyone who lives on the equator

-wants to commemorate that fact.

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-That column behind me is meant to

-signify the location of the equator.

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-But my GPS says it's here.

-There are two white lines here...

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-..to signify

-the path of the equator.

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-They decided to build

-the column over there instead!

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-Why not?

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-Pontianak is the perfect place

-for growing a special kind of plant.

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-It's well known for its ability

-to cure all sorts of illnesses.

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-Pontianak is on the equator.

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-The weather and soil

-are perfect for growing aloe vera.

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-The soil's wet here!

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-To be honest,

-I grow aloe vera in my garden...

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-..but I have to bring it in

-during the winter.

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-I have to admit,

-the quality is far better here.

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-Aloe vera is such an useful plant.

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-It's used to treat illnesses

-from skin problems to piles!

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-A local family has started

-a factory in their home.

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-It was by now pouring with rain

-and I was glad to be going inside.

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-Here are the leaves,

-ready to be treated.

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-Everyone has a role to play

-in the family business.

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-The task of slicing the leaves

-is done by Supin, the son.

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-Inside, you'll find a clear jelly

-which is full of goodness.

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-This is used to treat sunburn,

-grazes, eczema and so on.

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-You can use every part of the plant.

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-Today, they're concentrating

-on the jelly.

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-The aloe vera is mixed

-with sugar and seaweed...

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-..and boiled for two hours.

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-It smells like rice pudding

-or semolina.

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-He pours it into there.

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-It's then cooled...

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-..for twelve hours

-before being sliced up into sweets.

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-After being cooked

-and sliced up like chips...

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-..it's wrapped up in paper.

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-Today,

-I'm placing them in this packet.

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-When the packets are full,

-they're placed in this box.

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-Then we buy them and eat them...

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-..because they're good

-for our immune system and skin.

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-I'm going to buy a packet.

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-I bought four packets in the end

-and some tea...

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-..to remember the beauty

-of Kalimantan over a cuppa.

0:23:340:23:39

-My time in Kalimantan is over.

0:23:410:23:44

-I've only seen a little

-of this incredible country.

0:23:440:23:48

-There's so much more

-to see and do...

0:23:480:23:50

-..but I have to continue

-on my journey.

0:23:510:23:53

-I'll never forget meeting the Dayaks

-and the orangutans.

0:23:530:23:58

-For now, terima kasih, Kalimantan...

0:23:580:24:02

-..and sampai jumpa!

0:24:020:24:04

-Next week, people sticking skewers

-where they shouldn't in Singapore.

0:24:090:24:14

-And I'll also be falling in love

-with elephants in Sumatra.

0:24:140:24:18

-S4/C Subtitles by Simian 04

0:24:240:24:26

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0:24:260:24:27

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