Brazil Ar y Lein

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-I've stood at the top

-and the bottom of the world.

-Right now, I'm standing

-in the middle of the world.

-This sun dial runs along

-the zero-degree latitude line.

-The sun is passing over my head

-towards the west...

-..and I'll soon be following it.

-Welcome to Ar y Lein - the Equator!

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-"OK, Bethan," they said, "You've

-travelled around the world twice...

-.."where do you fancy going next?"

-"Well, let's follow

-the equator around the world!"

-The halfway line at the Macapa

-Stadium runs along the equator.

-It doesn't go far

-but if it went all the way...

-..it would stretch

-for 25,000 miles...

-..crossing South America,

-Indonesia and Africa.

-This is my biggest challenge so far.

-I will explore

-the Amazonian jungle...

-..the Ecuadorian mountains,

-the Galapagos Islands...

-..and travel through Borneo

-and Sumatra.

-Then I'll reach Africa -

-Kenya and Uganda in the east...

-..and Gabon and Sao Tome

-in the west.

-I'm not allowed to visit

-every country - for my own safety!

-The starting point is Belem

-in Brazil.

-Brazil has a huge population -

-188 million...

-..one of the largest populations

-in the world.

-Almost everyone works along the

-coast which stretches for 7,000kms.

-Belem is the largest port

-along the Amazon.

-It's convenient for fish, naturally,

-and the wood industry.

-Every river is a trickle

-at its source.

-It's hard to think that the Amazon

-is so small at its source...

-..high up in the rainforests.

-Here, at the docks in Belem, they

-deal in wood from the rainforests.

-They also export fish, fruit,

-vegetables and Brazil nuts!

-I know I'm stupid, but I'd never

-made the connection until now.

-Of course they come from Brazil!

-Just to prove the point...

-They taste even better

-when they're fresh.

-There were fruits of every shape,

-size and colour at Belem Market.

-Heaven for a fruitaholic like me.

-They were also rather large - have

-you ever seen avocados this big?

-All sorts of different plants

-grow along the Amazon.

-Some are used to cure

-all kinds of ailments.

-There are dozens of stands like this

-selling different remedies.

-There are bottles

-just for women like me!

-I thought I understood

-what this was.

-Pega Nao Me Larga -

-to me, it looks like a medicine...

-..that will stop me getting fat.

-But it's used to attract men!

-That could come in very handy!

-This one's even better.

-I'd be irresistible!

-Just one glass of that!

-And to help you last the pace...!

-This is the best time

-to be in Belem.

-They are preparing

-for a religious festival...

-..to celebrate the life

-of Nossa Senhora de Nazare...

-..Mary, Mother of Jesus.

-Tomorrow is a big day!

-It's 6.00am and 30,000 people

-have congregated in the square.

-Brazil is the largest

-Catholic country in the world.

-They're expecting two million people

-in Belem today.

-Some will have saved money for the

-entire year to pay for their trip.

-This is a time when the rich and

-the poor join together to celebrate.

-The silence was amazing. Their

-respect and their faith touched me.

-This is what

-they've all come to see.

-This little statue

-of Nossa Senhora de Nazare.

-People will march for 10kms,

-most barefoot...

-..in the hope of touching it

-or seeing it close up.

-These men have the important task

-of pulling the carriage...

-..that carries it around the city.

-As the temperature rises,

-the crowd becomes more excited.

-Today is the main day but the

-celebrations last for a fortnight.

-It lasts a fortnight because that's

-when the crowds congregate again...

-..to take the statue

-of Nossa Senhora de Nazare...

-..back to the cathedral.

-Any excuse for a party!

-It's mid-morning.

-In the sweltering heat,

-the crowds are starting to suffer.

-Gallons of water are shared out

-and sprayed over the crowd.

-It's still too hot for some.

-It's a very social festival.

-You'd expect people to be shattered

-after the procession...

-..but most go home for a traditional

-feast with their families.

-I've been invited to spend

-an evening with a local family.

-I'm looking forward

-to finally sitting down.

-I also want to know why so many

-people are excited about a statue.

-Clara is the editor

-of a local newspaper.

-She never joins the crowds.

-She stays home with her family...

-..to prepare a feast similar

-to what slaves ate years ago.

-It has a meaty taste.

-That's not surprising.

-It's been simmering for seven days

-in a pan of cheap pig meat.

-Slaves could only afford cheap meat.

-No delicioso. Interestante.

-Cute!

-I also met the Grandfather.

-For some reason,

-he wanted to sing to me.

-I wasn't sure

-what he was trying to do next.

-I think he said

-he was singing from the heart.

-I wanted to know why people

-were so excited about the festival.

-Clara explained to me that this

-was the one day of the year...

-..when they could worship

-the Mother of Christ.

-They fast and walk barefoot

-but they believe...

-..it will all be worth it

-when they reach heaven.

-Clara became emotional

-when she was just talking about it.

-CLARA SPEAKS PORTUGUESE

-The festival and Clara's words were

-fresh in my mind the following day.

-I don't think I'll ever understand

-the appeal of such statues.

-But if it brings people together,

-it's great.

-Do I look tired? I'm not surprised.

-We're up at 4.30am for the third

-or fourth time this week.

-I had to catch the early ferry

-to Ilha do Marajo...

-..an island the size of Switzerland

-at the mouth of the Amazon...

-..about three or four hours

-from Belem.

-They tell me that there are

-more bikes than cars on the island.

-The best way to travel,

-apparently, is by water buffalo.

-Agriculture and fishing are

-the main industries of the island.

-Water buffalos are important

-for cheese, meat and leather.

-There are four times more buffalos

-than people and bikes here.

-Even the local police use them.

-There's a procession here today -

-a chance to ride the buffalos...

-..and show why they're so suitable

-for such a wet landscape.

-Even when they grow old and die,

-there's an use for them.

-People can make all sorts of things

-from buffalo hide.

-They don't waste a thing.

-I don't have to tell you

-what these are.

-But they make wonderful

-pencil cases and shoulder bags.

-The buffalos have only been here

-since the 1920s.

-They escaped from a stricken ship

-and swam ashore.

-They're not wild

-like African buffalos.

-They're very easy to tame.

-Give them a few mangoes and

-they'll be eating out of your hand.

-This is Eva.

-She owns a 6,600-hectare ranch.

-Her father

-was one of the first people...

-..to farm buffalos on the island.

-As you may have noticed,

-my Portuguese isn't great...

-..but Eva could speak French.

-Vous le traitez comme un enfant.

-Comme un enfant, comme un bebe.

-Oui, oui, j'ai dit "Oh, mon bebe,

-s'il vous plait, viens avec maman."

-Eva's method of handling buffalos

-differed from the police's methods.

-She said it was OK for me to touch

-the buffalos but not their horns.

-If you touch them,

-it means you're looking for a fight.

-I asked her if she had a name

-for the buffalo.

-Hambo? Oh, Rambo!

-Hi, Rambo!

-I hope he doesn't act like Rambo!

-She offered me a ride on his back...

-..so I couldn't refuse.

-Eva assured me that even her young

-daughter was safe on a buffalo.

-All I had to do was relax!

-I'm going to ride a buffalo.

-I've never ridden a buffalo before.

-Obrigado!

-Don't tell

-the Welsh Black Society...

-..but buffalo meat

-is better than beef.

-It contains more protein,

-more minerals...

-..less fat and less cholesterol.

-Vamos.

-You might see me riding a buffalo

-at Llanelwedd next year!

-I'll see you after the break!

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-I've travelled over 1,000 miles

-from Ilha do Marajo to Manaus...

-..in the middle of the Amazonian

-jungle. Look what I've found!

-Teatro Amazonas Opera House

-was built in 1896.

-It's testimony

-to the wealth that was here...

-..during the heyday

-of the rubber industry.

-The income from rubber

-turned this insignificant port...

-..into a splendid city.

-It was such a splendid period that

-the wealthy sent their shirts...

-..to London to be washed and ironed.

-When they decided to build an opera

-house, only the best would do.

-The curtains came from Paris...

-..the ironwork from Scotland

-and the marble from Italy.

-The only thing

-that came from Brazil was the wood.

-And that was sent to Europe

-to be carved.

-Yes, the sun could blind you.

-It's strong around the Amazon.

-This is the journey so far.

-Manaus is on the banks

-of the River Negro...

-..one of the tributaries

-of the Amazon.

-This is the perfect place to relax

-before venturing into the jungle.

-The prosperous days of the

-rubber industry have disappeared.

-Since Manaus is so close to the

-jungle, it attracts many tourists.

-There are a number

-of other industries here...

-..such as mobile phone

-and electronic factories.

-The city has a population

-of two million people...

-..but there is

-a lot of poverty here.

-A third of Brazil's population

-live in poverty.

-Every city has a favela -

-a slum area.

-The Manaus favela

-has been built on stilts.

-It looked like an awful place

-from the main road.

-In the middle of the favela,

-a sight that rather surprised me.

-Every home had electricity

-and running water...

-..and the families lived happily

-in close-knit communities.

-The authorities

-want to demolish the favelas...

-..which could break up

-these communities.

-In such a macho city,

-women are victims of abuse.

-One female is allegedly abused

-every 15 seconds.

-There are 250 special police centres

-for women in Brazil.

-This is Maria Rosinita

-Dos Reis Silva.

-She heads the police centre

-in this part of Manaus.

-When women make a complaint,

-the men are arrested...

-..and questioned in these rooms.

-It used to be difficult

-to encourage women to complain...

-..but they deal with around

-1,000 incidents every month now.

-Monday is always the busiest day,

-after a weekend on the beer.

-Alcohol is a huge part

-of the problem.

-Maria said that the centre

-has definitely made a difference.

-This is Wander, one of the women

-who received help at the centre.

-Her husband was a loving man

-when he was sober.

-When he drank, he would turn on her.

-I asked her if he ever hit her.

-"No," she replied, "Never."

-He would abuse her

-verbally and emotionally.

-She could have retaliated

-had the abuse been physical...

-..but the mental torture

-shattered her.

-Living with him was unbearable.

-When he was detained at the police

-centre for a second time...

-..she left him,

-the house, everything.

-In the end, he left her alone

-and she carried on with her life.

-Today, she works in a hospital.

-She's also a law student and helps

-other women who have been abused.

-And she's not looking

-for another husband!

-She's realised that it's not

-the most important thing in life.

-She's a wonderful woman. We'll see

-her necklace later in the series.

-She insisted on giving it to me.

-I'm not sure why.

-It must have been a relief for her

-to recount her story to a stranger.

-It was time to say goodbye

-to Manaus and head for the jungle.

-The temperature was rising

-and the humidity was overwhelming.

-Travelling by boat

-was a pleasant experience.

-Thankfully, the water in the

-Negro is too acidic for mosquitoes.

-When the sun had set,

-I was looking forward to my bed.

-Alas, no. A man named Abdias wanted

-to take me out in another boat...

-..to search for Caymans -

-a type of crocodile.

-Abdias is his real name

-but everyone calls him Rambo.

-Yes - another one! Stallone

-must be popular around here.

-I was expecting a quiet, romantic

-journey but it wasn't to be.

-There were hundreds

-of Caymans present...

-..but Rambo spotted one

-that was larger than the others.

-He wanted to follow it!

-I didn't expect to chase

-a Cayman in the dead of night...

-..but I followed obediently.

-It's still there.

-I can hear it hissing.

-It'll come out in a moment and

-when it does, we're going that way!

-They're rather strong

-and rather dangerous!

-Can I touch its stomach?

-It's beautiful.

-It is similar to a duck.

-Oh, yeah. Similar to a duck.

-You're not that similar to a duck!

-This one isn't large

-but some can grow to seven metres.

-They have around 80 teeth...

-..but no tongue, which is why they

-can't eat anything in the river.

-They have to drag their food

-to the riverbank before eating it.

-They're going to try

-and determine its sex now.

-We're now seeing a Cayman's

-female sexual organs.

-And she's pregnant.

-She has around 40 eggs inside her.

-She may be small

-but she's dangerous.

-The most dangerous

-part is releasing her!

-I'm up early to meet a community

-of Indians called Sahu Ape.

-This is how they alert the village

-that we're on our way.

-In case they didn't hear

-the first time...

-I'm looking forward to this.

-The Sahu Ape retain old traditions.

-It's a privilege to see them

-living so close to nature.

-After following this man

-for half a mile into the jungle...

-..we met a very important lady.

-This is the local chemist.

-She's the local doctor,

-in some ways.

-There are medicines

-of all kinds here...

-..made from the trees and animals.

-Any illness, you can cure it here.

-Wow!

-Dolphin.

-I was offered some toucan beak tea

-to improve my singing voice!

-I regret not accepting

-the invitation.

-A quarter

-of the world's medicines...

-..come from different

-Brazilian trees and plants.

-It is hoped that a cure for cancer

-and Aids can be found here.

-Some of the medicines were enough

-to blow your head to kingdom come!

-I have no idea what it was for.

-I was led through the village

-to the village hall.

-I had no idea what to expect

-but I accepted a drink as part...

-..of the welcoming ceremony without

-really knowing what was in it.

-They usually fill these gloves with

-ants to prove their masculinity.

-Today, they were empty as

-the villagers showed us a dance...

-..which was part of their tradition.

-As usual, I had to join in.

-At least it was easier

-than flamenco.

-As I enjoyed the unique experience

-of the dance...

-..some more tourists arrived

-and the show started all over again.

-I soon realised that they

-are part of a government plan.

-They live in the jungle

-and retain their traditions...

-..as long as they

-entertain tourists twice a week.

-I've enjoyed this part

-of the journey very much...

-..apart from one thing!

-I've sweated pints -

-it's so hot here.

-I've had to change my knickers

-twice a day...

-..and I've had to blow-dry my bras!

-The people here are lovely, though.

-The people of Ilha do Marajo,

-the buffalos...

-..and reaching the jungle

-to meet these people...

-..but there are

-a lot of tourists here.

-You think this is a real village

-but there are tourists all around.

-Without us, though,

-they couldn't afford to live here...

-..so I'm happy here

-and happy with the situation.

-A brilliant start to Ar y Lein

-as we follow the equator.

-From me and the people

-of Seteri Mao...

-..Goodbye!

-Next week, I'll be in Ecuador

-and the Galapagos Islands.

-I'll be going back to school,

-meeting gigantic tortoises...

-..and swimming with penguins.

-S4/C Subtitles by Simian 04

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