Bro...Aberdaron Bro...


Bro...Aberdaron

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-This week, Shan and I

-are visiting an area...

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-..known by the locals

-as the world's end.

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-"When I am old and famous,

-with money in my purse

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-"And all my critics silenced,

-for better or for worse

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-"I'll buy me a lonely cottage,

-and at its door shall be

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-"The rocks of Aberdaron

-and the wild waves of the sea."

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-Shani, you wild thing. Let's go!

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-Welcome to Bro from Aberdaron.

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-888

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-888

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-888

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-888

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-Yes, we've come to Aberdaron.

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-It's a beautiful seaside village.

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-It's at the far end

-of Gwynedd's Lleyn Peninsula.

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-It's 15 miles west of Pwllheli.

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-It's 33 miles south west

-of Caernarfon.

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-It's home to 1,019 people.

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-In the middle of the village

-is a 17th-century stone bridge.

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-It crosses the River Daron

-as it approaches the sea.

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-Not far from the beach are the old,

-whitewashed fishermen's cottages...

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-..a reminder of the community's

-traditional dependency on the sea.

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-I kick off our visit to Aberdaron

-on the beach.

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-I'm looking out at all the yachts.

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-The kids are having fun, John.

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-The kids are having fun, John.

-

-Yes, look at them.

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-They're going really well.

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-This is their sixth year of sailing.

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-There are about 30 of them.

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-I think there may be 35 this year.

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-Are they training or racing?

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-Robin will be out with them tonight.

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-He'll set up a little race for them.

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-It looks as if the race has begun.

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-They're circling the buoy.

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-Are these conditions perfect?

-A bit of sun and a breeze?

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-It's surprising

-how windy it gets at sea.

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-It looks nice,

-but it's quite choppy out there.

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-Sailing has always been popular.

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-Aberdaron has seen

-centuries of sailing, surely?

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-125 years of sailing, I'm told.

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-Our own records go back 100 years.

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-Dafid, are some of these boats

-unique to Aberdaron?

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-Yes, the boats of Aberdaron,

-known as the Lleyn Peninsula boats.

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-They're clinker vessels,

-measuring about 15 feet.

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-They started out as fishing boats.

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-They've been adapted for sailing.

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-I would estimate that...

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-..half a dozen to ten of them

-are currently in use.

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-But I remember 20 of them

-sailing in this bay.

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-Were the boats used for fishing

-or catching lobster?

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-Lobster and crab

-were caught in the old days.

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-They were two-bow boats at first.

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-But, to lift lobster pots, sterns

-were added to strengthen the boats.

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-They were substantial enough

-to lift the pots without capsizing.

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-Are these boats still built today?

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-Funnily enough,

-one new boat was built this year.

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-Before that,

-none had been built for many years.

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-We renovated and repaired old boats.

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-Do the old boats still sail?

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-Oh, yes, my recently-retired boat

-was over a century old.

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-It's in the harbour.

-You'll see it's like new.

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-I'm sure I've been sailing now

-for almost 50 years.

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-I've decided this year

-to call it a day.

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-You're hanging up your sails.

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-You're hanging up your sails.

-

-Age has caught up with me.

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-Dafid, let's all give up now,

-and go for a pint in the sunshine.

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-Great idea. Who's paying?

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-It's John's shout.

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-Aberdaron is a very popular

-holiday destination.

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-Visitors come here

-in their thousands every year.

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-At the village's edge

-is Dwyros camping and caravanning.

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-I'm here to help out

-on the maintenance side.

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-Hello, Alun. How are you?

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-Hello, Alun. How are you?

-

-Hello, are you well?

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-I'm fine, but you're busy here.

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-I'm fine, but you're busy here.

-

-There's plenty to do.

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-I hope you want a break.

-You've been working hard.

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-I wouldn't say no, to be honest.

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-There's a lot of upkeep,

-but the site's looking good.

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-At this time of year,

-the grass-cutting is never-ending.

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-By the time you've finished,

-you'll probably have to start again!

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-You must be so happy living in this

-location, and with your life here.

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-Is this a hobby

-or a full-time occupation?

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-It's not full-time,

-but it takes up most of my time.

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-There are other things I do as well.

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-What's special about the area?

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-I'd say it's the wonderful location.

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-There's something

-quite unique about this area.

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-Many have been visiting regularly

-for 50 years - year in, year out.

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-Obviously, there's something

-really special about Aberdaron.

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-As it happens, Alun,

-I have a free afternoon.

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-Is there a job for me

-to cut a blade of grass or two?

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-Well, do you fancy strimming?

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-I'm not so sure.

-I don't have any overalls.

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-My hair gets in the way.

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-Perhaps we could help.

-I have something else here.

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-That'll be easier for you.

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-That'll be easier for you.

-

-Ideal, I won't have to walk!

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-Do you trust me?

-Do you have faith in me?!

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-Well, why not? Let's try it.

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-Here goes then.

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-Health and safety!

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-A little knot in my clothing.

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-Right then, here I go.

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-Does it have enough power?

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-Does it have enough power?

-

-Oh, plenty.

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-Oh, plenty.

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-Here's the ignition.

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-All I do is press that pedal.

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-I then go straight ahead.

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-Thanks, Alun. I'll see you

-in a couple of hours.

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-Tony Jones is a photographer.

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-He lives in Rhiw,

-a village near Aberdaron.

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-His great interest lies

-in taking shots of dawn and sunset.

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-Tony, as a photographer,

-I'd say you're spoilt in Aberdaron.

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-True enough. Isn't it wonderful?

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-It's ideal today. The tide is out.

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-The colours in the sand

-are just amazing.

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-It's easy to be inspired

-in a place like this, isn't it?

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-The light here in Lleyn

-is something incredible.

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-Of course, we also get mist,

-rain and wind here.

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-But the light we see here today is

-really unbelievable, it really is.

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-These days, everyone in Aberdaron

-knows you as a photographer.

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-But you used to be a sailor.

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-Yes, I was at sea for 40 years.

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-I flew home from Australia

-on my 56th birthday.

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-That was two years ago,

-and I told my wife that was it.

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-I'd been working for six weeks,

-operating cranes in Australia.

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-I was on a special crane

-aboard a Norwegian ship.

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-I'd been with

-a Norwegian line for 10 years.

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-On arriving home,

-I said I'm not going back.

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-Hey, you'd better carry on,

-before you lose the light.

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-Alaw Tecwyn and Huw Erith

-have been raised in this area.

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-They have been so inspired

-that they compose songs together.

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-Alaw, we know you

-as a successful young singer.

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-Huw, you're well known

-as a poet and fisherman.

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-Tell me,

-how did your partnership come about?

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-Do you compose the music,

-and does Huw supply the poetry?

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-Alaw asked me to write some words.

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-I know next to nothing about music.

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-I write the words

-and give them to her.

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-She just gets on with it after that!

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-It started when I was

-doing my GCSEs at school.

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-Composing music was part of that.

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-I decided that I'd like to

-compose music for a song.

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-I thought I'd ask Huw to help.

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-He's a local, and I'm friends

-with his son, Owain.

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-I then started my A levels,

-and we kept it going.

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-Do you relax when you're composing?

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-Yes, I do. It's a personal pastime.

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-I like composing,

-and I find it enjoyable.

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-I'm not seeking critical acclaim

-or anything like that.

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-I just do it for pleasure.

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-And you've recently recorded a CD.

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-Yes, a CD containing three songs.

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-We created it for ourselves really.

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-We wanted a souvenir of our songs.

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-Perhaps others

-might enjoy our work too.

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-Does any one song encapsulate

-everything about Aberdaron for you?

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-I'd say it would be

-the first song on our CD.

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-I wrote it, thinking about

-my uncle whose name I share.

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-He was killed when his ship

-was torpedoed in World War II.

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-My thoughts strayed

-towards the attraction of the sea.

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-Many young men have been

-drawn to a life at sea.

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-I myself have three sons

-who are all sailors.

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-There were some, in times past,

-who would go away for a long time.

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-Some were away for two years.

-Others never returned.

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-I wondered about their longing, and

-that of their families and lovers.

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-The song is called Mor Hallt.

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-# Let's wait for tonight

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-# Let's get drunk

-on the crest of a wave

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-# Let's taste the wild surf

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-# And sleep sound to its heartbeat #

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-I'm enjoying the view today,

-here in lovely Aberdaron.

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-It's evidently

-a place of inspiration, Huw.

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-Yes, it's the inspiration

-of the land and the sea.

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-It's in our upbringing

-and our heritage.

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-It's in the roots of our language.

-It's all around us.

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-The sea inspires me.

-I probably write about it too often.

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-The song came to me quite easily.

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-I think that's always a good sign.

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-I just sat by the piano...

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-..and I phoned Huw

-to ask him to listen to it.

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-Yes, it's a good song

-to start the CD, I hope.

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-I have to say that you live

-in a truly splendid area.

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-And we do appreciate it.

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-.

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-888

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-888

-

-888

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-This week,

-we're on the Lleyn Peninsula.

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-We're in the lovely area

-in and around Aberdaron.

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-Two miles from Aberdaron

-is the village of Rhoshirwaun.

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-Located here

-is Felin Uchaf Educational Centre.

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-Research is undertaken here

-into creative work and lifestyles.

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-Dafydd, you're busy here.

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-Yes, we're quite busy,

-especially in this good dry weather.

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-Now is the time to build walls.

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-What are you all doing here?

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-We're building a traditional wall.

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-It's not a wall made out of stone...

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-..to surround a field.

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-Having said that,

-it does look like a perimeter wall.

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-It's a wall for a house, Iolo.

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-Half of it is mud,

-and the other half is stone.

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-These are the footings

-for a house wall.

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-What's the story

-behind Felin Uchaf Centre?

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-A charity owns and runs the centre.

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-It's a social centre, and we do

-charitable work with various groups.

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-We work mainly with young people.

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-We teach them countryside skills

-and building techniques.

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-That is what we'll be doing

-in this initial, pioneering stage.

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-We then intend to develop it

-into more of a cultural centre.

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-We're trying to ask people

-to consider what we have locally.

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-Let's use our natural resources,

-and earn a living from that.

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-I know that all the farmers

-have been doing so for centuries.

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-There's room for new businesses,

-even in construction, to do so.

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-We all think

-about our carbon footprint.

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-What other activities take place?

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-Primarily,

-for the next five years...

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-..building will be the main thing,

-but in different guises.

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-We'll be looking at thatching roofs,

-stonemasonry and mud work.

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-There'll be framing work

-out of oak, and that type of thing.

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-We'd also like to offer

-cultural courses as well.

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-But, at present, it's primarily

-building work, as you can see.

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-It's all done on a voluntary basis.

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-It's nice to see volunteers

-here from all over the globe.

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-Yes, they're attracted by the work.

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-Young people enjoy it, don't they?

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-Some have come to Wales

-from very far afield.

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-They want a real experience,

-and not just to pass through.

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-They want to get to know the area.

-What better way is there?

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-They handle local materials such as

-stones and clay, and do garden work.

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-They become rooted in the area.

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-Hey, enough chatting for now.

-I'd better roll up my sleeves.

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-You'll need some gloves,

-so here's a pair.

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-Otherwise, your hands will be cut.

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-Good grief, the wetsuits

-make yet another appearance!

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-This time, Shan,

-we're going surfing.

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-Off we go.

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-Well, we may have looked the part,

-but we had never surfed before.

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-We were coached on the beach

-by three local surfers...

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-..namely Gerallt Jones,

-Ifan Roberts and Deio Jones.

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-We start by doing a press-up.

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-Belly in!

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-Belly in!

-

-Move forward.

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-Hooray! It's easy on sand.

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-Hooray! It's easy on sand.

-

-I nearly fell off.

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-We've done this,

-so now we'll get wet, waves or not.

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-Yes, we had to venture into the sea.

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-We had great fun,

-despite a lack of waves!

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-Up the road from Aberdaron

-is the cove of Porth Meudwy.

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-From this beach, Shan and I

-will embark on a two-mile journey.

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-We're going to Bardsey Island.

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-Here to meet us is our guide,

-the fisherman Colin Evans.

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-# On the way to Bardsey Island

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-# An idea crossed my mind

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-# I would see the picture

-so much clearer #

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-Colin, I'm in your cabin now.

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-I've left Iolo outside,

-enjoying himself.

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-You take this little boat

-over to Bardsey every day.

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-I do indeed, every single day

-that the weather permits.

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-We cancel about thirty per cent

-of the trips due to bad weather.

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-So, we're very lucky today.

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-So, we're very lucky today.

-

-Yes, it's a really fine day today.

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-It's perfect.

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-How long have you been doing this?

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-I've been running back and forth

-to the island for years.

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-My grandfather and father

-were lifelong Bardsey fishermen.

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-This boat was bought in 2003.

-I've been doing trips since then.

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-I started when lobster-catching and

-fishing were becoming uneconomic.

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-This venture was

-an attempt to diversify.

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-It's worked out well.

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-It's worked out well.

-

-Yes, things aren't too bad.

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-You had no real choice.

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-You had no real choice.

-

-In all honesty, no.

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-I couldn't leave this area,

-especially not Bardsey Island.

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-I had to find a way of earning

-a decent living in these parts.

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-I don't mind the sea.

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-I wouldn't go so far

-as to say that I like the sea.

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-I've seen too much

-of the damned thing.

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-No, I've stayed here,

-and it's a livelihood for me.

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-I chug back and forth to the island.

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-I try to help the resident

-community on Bardsey Island.

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-We carry the post, and

-chicken and cattle feed.

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-We have some woollen blankets

-to take over there today.

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-It all works OK, I think.

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-What can I expect there?

-It's not a big island.

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-It's big enough, and even I

-haven't seen every single corner!

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-Eight people live there,

-and that's important in my book.

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-Over 100 people have lived

-on it during the past century.

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-It's a living island, combining

-conservation and agriculture.

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-It's a very special place,

-with its seductive, spiritual side.

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-The monks were drawn here first,

-back in the sixth century.

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-An abbey stood here for 1,000 years.

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-Then came the dissolution

-of the monasteries in about 1538.

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-They say that 20,000 saints

-lie buried on the island.

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-There is a real tranquillity here.

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-If the weather changes, Colin,

-maybe I'll have to stay overnight.

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-But it won't change, unfortunately!

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-We'll leave it there.

-Keep up the good work!

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-This was my first time on Bardsey.

0:19:500:19:52

-I was enchanted by its beauty.

0:19:530:19:55

-Agriculture has been important

-since the earliest times.

0:19:560:20:00

-Old agricultural sites

-are probably the best explanation...

0:20:000:20:05

-..for the island's medieval ruins.

0:20:050:20:08

-The Bardsey Island Trust

-appoints farmers nowadays.

0:20:080:20:12

-As tenants,

-they have to manage the island.

0:20:120:20:15

-Iolo and I have come

-to meet two of them.

0:20:150:20:19

-Are you making progress?

0:20:270:20:28

-Are you making progress?

-

-Yes, we think so.

0:20:280:20:30

-How many sheep do you have?

0:20:300:20:32

-We have 350 sheep,

-50 yearling ewes...

0:20:320:20:36

-..and about 11 rams.

0:20:360:20:38

-I see you have some cattle here too.

0:20:380:20:41

-We have 25 Welsh Blacks and a bull.

0:20:420:20:44

-I imagine that island farming

-must be quite difficult.

0:20:440:20:48

-Yes, the weather is a big factor.

0:20:480:20:51

-When it's fine, it's fantastic.

-But if not, it's hard to reach here.

0:20:520:20:56

-There can be problems with calves.

-Otherwise, it's not bad.

0:20:570:21:00

-Carting the sheep back and forth

-by boat can be quite a job.

0:21:010:21:05

-I expect it's easier

-just to jump into a Land Rover.

0:21:050:21:09

-Yes, that must be easier. But then

-you, Angharad, come from this area.

0:21:090:21:14

-You've also been away,

-and dragged Carwyn back with you!

0:21:140:21:18

-From Llannon.

0:21:180:21:20

-Yes, I worked in Aberystwyth

-for a year with a little deaf girl.

0:21:210:21:25

-Then, I returned to this area,

-so that Carwyn could farm with Dad.

0:21:250:21:30

-Were you very keen to return?

0:21:300:21:32

-Yes, and I've appreciated

-the area much more since returning.

0:21:330:21:37

-It's obvious that

-anyone would miss this place.

0:21:370:21:40

-Carwyn, have you had

-a good welcome here?

0:21:410:21:43

-Yes, I certainly have.

0:21:430:21:46

-It's different

-to Llannon and Aberystwyth.

0:21:460:21:49

-Yes, it is.

-And there's the language barrier!

0:21:490:21:52

-Do you understand Angharad?

0:21:520:21:53

-Do you understand Angharad?

-

-I'm getting there slowly.

0:21:530:21:55

-Do you know what you agreed to?

0:21:550:21:57

-You've signed the contract now.

0:21:580:22:00

-Well done, you're very industrious.

0:22:020:22:04

-We haven't done much today, have we?

0:22:050:22:07

-Can we help you in any way?

0:22:080:22:10

-Yes, as it happens,

-some help would be appreciated.

0:22:100:22:13

-Just a small job, I hope.

0:22:140:22:16

-How's this one for you, Iolo?

0:22:160:22:18

-Gosh, Angharad.

-That's not a ram, it's a buffalo!

0:22:180:22:22

-Look at its size.

0:22:230:22:25

-I've never seen one that big.

-It must be the Bardsey Island air!

0:22:250:22:29

-You know, I'd love to help you out.

0:22:310:22:34

-It would be an easy job.

-A two-minute job for us, really.

0:22:340:22:38

-But, as it happens,

-our boat is about to leave, Shani.

0:22:380:22:42

-We have to go,

-but thanks to you both!

0:22:420:22:44

-Best of luck with the buffalo.

0:22:440:22:47

-Quick, Shani! Let's go!

0:22:470:22:49

-Well, Shan, your first visit

-to Bardsey Island is almost over.

0:22:580:23:03

-It's been an eye-opener. I've been

-inspired. What a marvellous place!

0:23:030:23:08

-S4C Subtitles by Simian 04 Cyf.

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