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-Travellers? Adventurers, that's us.

-Lucky we know our stuff.

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-My large bag was too full, so I

-bought this cheap one in Hong Kong.

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-The zips and handle have fallen off!

-And what's just fallen off?

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-The wheel.

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-We know what we're doing.

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-888

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-888

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-888

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-CONVERSATION

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-We've come here in April,

-for an important reason.

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-It's time for the hanami.

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-That's the season when the cherry

-trees blossom and look their best.

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-The Japanese flock to sit under

-these beautiful trees...

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-..to eat, drink and socialise.

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-As if anyone needed

-an excuse to do that!

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-Everyone has their own image

-of Japan and its people.

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-Not a visual idea, but what goes on

-up here, and their interests.

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-Look at this place!

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-The Japanese love playing games.

-Look at these. Strewth!

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-Some play them all day,

-so I've heard.

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-Look at him.

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-DRUM PLAYING

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-'Pachinko' is a very popular

-game in Japan.

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-It's a gambling game, similar

-to the bagatelle I played as a boy.

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-You win small metal balls, and at

-the end, you exchange them for cash.

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-The Japanese are mad

-about technical games.

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-Of course, style

-is important to the young.

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-This is Tsukiji Fish Market at

-4.00am. You don't want to be here.

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-They say this fish

-is called the Sinatra fish.

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-# Crevettes, I've had a few

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-# But then again,

-too few to mention... #

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-This is laver bread!

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-Ah, good.

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-Domo.

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-Arigato.

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-Japan heads the list of the world's

-environmental offenders...

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-...because the Japanese will pay

-more than anyone for fish like tuna.

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-Life's strange. I've flown

-half way around the world...

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-..to meet a fish from Ireland.

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-The highest price paid this year

-for one tuna, is 150,000.

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-That's 20 a bite.

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-JAPANESE

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-Here's the unfrozen fish section.

-They're delivered by air, mostly.

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-That says it comes from France.

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-When it's cut, they look to see how

-much fat there is in the stomach.

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-This costs about 10,000,

-which is 7,000.

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-Just for that. It's like gold!

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-Just as in markets back home, they

-walk around, look, take samples.

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-They know which fish they want,

-they make notes.

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-Then they put a bid in

-at the auction.

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-This is how they count in auctions.

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-One, two, three, four, five.

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-Six, seven, eight.

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-Nine? Yes.

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-Q, oh, yes.

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-Yes, OK.

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-JAPANESE

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-Oh, thirty five.

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-Forty five, thirty five. They have

-their own style, or language...

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-..when they bid at auction.

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-Off we go.

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-BIDDING IN JAPANESE

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-This happens every day of the week.

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-Thousands of fish are sold,

-for millions of pounds.

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-It makes you think, will there

-be any fish left one day?

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-If not, these blokes

-will have had their chips.

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-This fish was bought

-for over 20,000.

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-But the demand for tuna in Japanese

-sushi restaurants is so high...

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-..that prices increase sky-high,

-before the fish reaches your plate.

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-In one day, fish, and seafood,

-worth more than 100 million...

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-..goes through this market.

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-Good God, Al, look at the size

-of what he's given us!

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-Arigato!

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-That's it, a morning's work.

-It's 7.00am and we've worked hard.

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-I was looking forward to breakfast,

-bacon and eggs, some laver bread.

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-What do I get?

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-Sushi.

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-Young people all over the world

-like fashion.

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-The Japanese take it seriously.

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-Western influence is evident.

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-Ah, Kawasaki, good bikes.

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-It's odd, I was thinking

-about the Japanese names.

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-We think of these as modern, but the

-names resemble Welsh place names.

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-For example, Suzuki means pear tree.

-Mazda, a field of pine.

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-Yamaha, a mountain leaf.

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-Kawasaki means a river estuary.

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-But never buy a bike

-called Kawasickie.

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-We're going to Kyoto today.

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-It's Japan's ancient capital and

-completely different from Tokyo.

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-We're going on the Shinkansen,

-one of the world's fastest trains.

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-The 'Silver Bullet' train.

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-We're travelling on carriage 14.

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-They told me carriage 14...

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-..would stop right here.

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-They were right.

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-This train is so long, the driver

-stopped at the next station...

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-..and had his lunch,

-before we arrived.

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-Isn't it odd?

-The toilet is always at the back.

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-Damn! There was someone in it too.

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-Over there in the clouds

-is Mount Fuji.

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-This train can travel

-at 300km per hour.

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-They get 'Pobol y Cwm' here too!

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-"Hello, Reg. Fancy a cabbage?"

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-Just joking!

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-The train goes from east to west.

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-I was amazed at how much concrete

-there was and how little greenery.

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-At last, Kyoto, centre

-of Japan's ancient culture...

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-..and a haven of quietness,

-so different from Tokyo.

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-Kyoto also has

-one of Japan's largest studios...

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-..where the best samurai

-and ninja films are produced.

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-Ho!

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-Ooh!

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-Haaah!

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-Hoooh!!

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-

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-We're staying here.

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-It's called Rikiya.

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-He calls it Rioja.

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-Look down here, slippers.

-We take our shoes off here.

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-Take your shoes off, Hughes.

-Here's our room.

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-Right, wait while I put on

-the light.

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-Here we are.

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-Look, small chairs.

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-Morning tea.

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-Look at these - they set these

-out for us at night.

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-Futons. That's what

-the Japanese sleep on.

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-He calls them croutons.

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-Here's another small room,

-with lovely windows.

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-Look over there, Hughes.

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-It's a sort of shrine,

-which we mustn't touch.

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-Here, another small room.

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-Outside, there's a huge temple.

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-Chairs, which we mustn't put

-on the mats, no, no!

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-This is where we sit at night

-to sip beer... tea!

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-Right, I must stop now,

-because we have an important job.

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-They close in 30 minutes.

-Come on, Hughes.

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-It's odd how these journeys

-can go up and down.

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-Yesterday, in Tokyo,

-I was on top of the world.

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-Music, lights,

-young people having fun.

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-Then we came to Kyoto on the train.

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-And everyone wants money here.

-A lot of money!

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-We asked a geisha girl...

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-..if we could film a short

-interview. She wanted 1,000!

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-Even Jonsi doesn't get that much.

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-Only geishas can perform

-the tea ceremony.

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-You've got to see it in Japan.

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-We've decided to give you

-the alternative version.

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-Here it is.

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-The coffee ceremony.

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-Arigato.

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-Old traditions are very important.

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-Aesthetic pleasures are a vital

-part of life in Japan.

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-Here, in a Zen garden,

-they come to meditate...

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-..and ponder on the meaning of life.

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-And the purpose of 'cynghanedd'.

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-The shape, texture and colour

-of the garden all help...

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-..to concentrate the mind

-and relax the body.

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-Bruce Lee, the famous karate bloke,

-went to a dating agency.

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-He said, "Have you got a woman with

-one large, and one small, boob?"

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-"No," they replied. "Find one!"

-He came back in a month.

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-"Have you got a woman with one

-large and one small boob?"

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-They did, so off he went.

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-"Are you the woman with one large,

-and one small boob?" he asked.

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-"Yes." "Take your clothes off!"

-he said. She did so. Then he went...

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-I liked that one!

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-Outside Kyoto, in the country,

-remote places have been created...

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-..as a haven for pilgrims looking

-for a respite from the busy towns.

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-Religion in Japan emphasises

-the importance of nature.

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-Water, trees and silence have great

-significance for the Buddhist.

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-It's a chance to escape from

-the noise and smoke for a while.

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-Last night, it was empty here.

-Look at it tonight!

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-It's because it's the first day

-of spring, apparently.

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-They're here to see

-the flowers, the hanami.

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-It's like an enormous party!

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-Look at it.

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-Japan is famous all over

-the world for the geishas.

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-Maybe it's our main image of Japan.

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-These girls are meiko,

-that is, trainee geishas.

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-Rich men pay 2,000 for a geisha's

-company, for one evening...

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-..in tea houses, or restaurants,

-in the Gion region.

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-The girls learn to dance, play

-instruments, serve drinks...

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-..offer cigarettes

-and to converse in a diverting way.

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-But, amid the fun,

-there's time for prayer too.

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-Today, we're on our way to meet...

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-..one of Japan's leading exponents

-of shodo, traditional calligraphy.

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-It's the style of writing developed

-by gentlemen, priests and samurai.

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-First, we must find a hotel.

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-Hey, this looks nice, Al.

-We'll go here.

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-I don't want to.

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-Oh, yes.

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-I see what you mean.

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-These aren't ordinary hotels

-but 'love hotels'.

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-Young married couples, who live

-in small houses with thin walls...

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-..can come here to escape from

-their in-laws, for an hour or two.

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-But, as the old Japanese proverb

-says, "calligraphy calls".

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-Here is Sosai Inada, in his home,

-which is also his workshop...

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-..full of beautiful objects and

-marvellous examples of his craft.

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-Which is that?

-Oh, of course, they go down.

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-What's that?

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-Oh, right, OK.

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-This is a complicated one.

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-For me, at least.

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-Ah, very good.

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-Heavens.

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-May I see?

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-I'll show you this.

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-They're beautiful in themselves.

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-Aren't they?

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-Ooh!

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-That's heavy, with the ink too.

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-And that's 'sakura'?

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-And that's 'sakura'?

-

-Sakura.

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-'Sakura' is the flower

-of the cherry.

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-The ink is very thick.

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-Sosai's work is seen

-all over the country.

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-He sells his work as an artist

-at home would sell pictures.

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-And, like all artists, he signs

-every picture with his own stamp.

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-Traditional music

-is still important.

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-No, this isn't Lyn Ebenezer,

-but Professor Homei Matsumura...

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-..and his pupil, Takeshi Lida.

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-They specialise in playing

-traditional bamboo instruments.

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-What's the...?

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-Hashu? No, Kash... um, what is it?

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-What was it?

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-What was it?

-

-Shakuhachi.

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-Shakuhachi. They're masters

-of these instruments. Can we hear?

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-Bamboo.

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-Bamboo.

-

-Yes, bamboo.

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-TRADITIONAL JAPANESE MUSIC

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-Very good.

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-Thank you.

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-That melody was about deer

-calling to each other.

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-Very good, marvellous, thank you.

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-Okini.

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-Japanese traditions differ so much

-from other parts of the world.

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-They emphasise elegance, the beauty

-of the dance, music and art.

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-The influence of the samurai

-is still strong in their culture.

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-TRADITIONAL JAPANESE MUSIC

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-WOOD STRIKES WOOD

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-All the disciplines seem to

-interweave and overlap each other.

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-From the geisha's dance,

-to the kendo fighter's movements...

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-..and the innate style...

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-..of the sumo wrestlers.

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-But things are changing in Japan.

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-Young people on the street develop

-their own style and fashion.

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-Gothic is in today.

-Tomorrow, who knows?

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-But is this fashion

-all that different?

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-Is the wheel turning full circle?

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-Only time can tell

-if the old has disappeared...

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-..and what the future holds.

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-The people we met were very kind,

-welcoming and always laughing.

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-But we've also seen another side.

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-They don't want to lose face

-and that's very important to them.

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-People tell us, even if you've lived

-here over 50 years...

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-..you're still considered

-to be a 'gai-jin' by the people.

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-'Gai-jin'? A stranger.

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-Remind you of somewhere?

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-Sayonara.

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