Bugeiliad Olaf Ewrop

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-Europe's ancient trails...

-..link us to a way of life

-that is all but forgotten.

-In this world...

-..great herds of animals

-move annually...

-..from winter to summer pastures...

-..from the lowlands in winter...

-..to the highlands in summer.

-We follow the shepherds as they

-retrace their ancestors' footsteps.

-They do all they can to protect

-their flocks from any threat.

-Along the Welsh coastline...

-..the Spanish steppes...

-..Romanian hills...

-..along French mountain ridges

-and the Tyrol peaks...

-..they keep the old traditions

-alive.

-They are Europe's last shepherds.

-Bardsey appears

-like a ghost in the mist.

-The island rises from the sea

-off the Llyn Peninsula.

-The island was formed

-600 million years ago.

-To us in Wales,

-it's a sacred place...

-..providing sanctuary

-for medieval pilgrims and monks.

-Bardsey now provides sanctuary

-for wild life.

-It's home to seals

-and migratory birds.

-To an extent, sheep are responsible

-for the birds' wellbeing.

-Every March, hundreds of sheep

-give birth to their lambs.

-It's the busiest time of year for

-Bardsey's shepherd, Steve Porter...

-..as he looks after his flock.

-He's on call for lambing

-24 hours a day.

-He usually witnesses

-nature's great miracle.

-But sometimes, he is too late.

-Shame. No heartbeat.

-This ewe had twins.

-But only one survived.

-Death is part of the lifecycle.

-It's harder to accept

-so early in any creature's life.

-Bardsey is home to one of North

-Wales's largest grey seal colonies.

-Between 150 and 200 are here

-all year round...

-..sheltering or resting

-on the island's stony beaches.

-The lambs are now two months old.

-They are unimpressed by the seals.

-They have far more important

-things to worry about.

-Grazing...

-..grazing...

-..and more grazing.

-The lambs unknowingly

-help protect the island's birds.

-They graze the grass

-to the perfect height...

-..for oystercatchers

-to find worms and insects.

-The red-billed chough's numbers

-have increased for the same reason.

-Sheep are crucial.

-The combination of good pastures...

-..and rock crevices for nesting

-have become rare elsewhere.

-Bardsey is ideally suited

-for red-billed choughs.

-The island is home

-to nine breeding pairs.

-The island's 300 sheep...

-..ensure that it's a safe haven

-for rare birds.

-Steve the shepherd has a unique way

-of keeping an eye on his flock.

-This is a real bird's-eye view.

-He needs to be watchful.

-Sometimes, their natural curiosity

-lands them in trouble.

-This one couldn't find

-its way out of the rocky inlet.

-The tide is coming in.

-With the lamb safely

-in his jacket...

-..Steve climbs back up

-to safer ground.

-He releases the lamb

-to find its mother.

-From a small island

-on the edge of Europe...

-..to the Spanish vaqueros,

-or Europe's oldest cowboys.

-They herd 800 cattle

-from southern Spain...

-..to the north...

-..to escape Andalusia's

-heat and sparse pasture.

-The 300-mile long journey

-will take a month.

-It's the longest cattle drive

-in Europe.

-This is El Pasajero, The Traveller.

-It is the herd leader.

-This is the twentieth time

-it's made this long journey.

-The cattle are bred

-for strength and stamina.

-This marathon drive

-pushes them to their limits.

-Food and pasture

-can be scarce along the way.

-The young holly oak trees

-have developed a sharp foliage...

-..to discourage cattle.

-As a result,

-they can survive up to 500 years.

-The oldest trees are the same age

-as the drovers' roads...

-..the Canadas Reales...

-..or the royal trails...

-..established

-in the late Middle Ages.

-There are more than 80,000 miles

-of them all over Spain.

-They've survived alongside

-the tarmacked roads.

-Spaniards are proud

-of their Canadas.

-They are a part of its history,

-and lifelines for cattle in summer.

-They are permitted to graze up to

-40 metres either side of the trail.

-Canadas are a natural obstacle

-to forest fires.

-On hot June days, the temperature

-rises to over 40 degrees.

-But despite the dust and drought...

-..the cattle can walk

-for two days without water.

-The few watering holes

-along the way are dry.

-But farmers and communities

-along the Canadas...

-..make sure the cattle

-quench their thirst.

-A cow needs up to 80 litres of water

-a day.

-A single well

-must supply an entire herd.

-A crush is inevitable.

-If the calves

-can't reach the bottom...

-..at least they have

-an alternative option.

-Sometimes, the heat and drought

-proves too much.

-This one falls ill

-through exhaustion.

-The herd leaders vainly

-encourage it to its feet.

-El Pasajero comes over.

-It'll be left behind as

-they move on under the stifling sun.

-At least the herd needn't fear

-an attack by wolves...

-..or birds of prey...

-..unlike flocks of sheep

-elsewhere on the continent.

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-The streets of Sumene in

-Southern France are empty at midday.

-Then all over a sudden,

-they're full.

-From the streets of Sumene...

-..the sheep join

-the Rieutord riverbed.

-The sun dried up the river.

-It's a starting point for

-the journey to highland pastures.

-Bruno is one of the last shepherds

-who still makes the journey on foot.

-He has Garrigues sheep.

-It's one of Europe's

-oldest and rarest breeds.

-With low body weight,

-they won't fetch much at market.

-But they're robust enough

-for the Cevennes mountains.

-They have the stamina

-for the nine day hike.

-The Cevennes mountains have been

-granted World Heritage Status...

-..like Caernarfon Castle

-and Blaenafon in Wales.

-The shepherds' trails

-are partly responsible.

-Drailles,

-as trails are known in France...

-..lead the sheep through the valleys

-and into the mountains.

-Wherever sheep go, others follow.

-After hundreds of sheep

-pass through...

-..millions of flies

-descend on the dung.

-It's the perfect fertilizer

-for highland plants.

-Flowers thrive here.

-WOLVES GROWL

-There are greater numbers of wolves

-here in Romania than in France.

-After separating a sheep

-from the herd...

-..the wolves devour its carcass.

-Wherever the shepherds' trail

-leads...

-..from winter to summer pastures...

-..the wolves won't be far...

-..watching and waiting.

-Romania's wolf population

-is around 3,000.

-Many are in the Maramures region,

-on the Ukraine border.

-It's the largest population

-of wolves in Europe.

-They've been left alone

-in these remote mountains.

-But sheep numbers are in decline.

-In the middle of the last century,

-Maramures had a million sheep.

-There's barely 10,000 now.

-France and Spain's traditional

-shepherd trails are well protected.

-In Maramures, they've been breached

-in several places...

-..by people buying land.

-The shepherds carry on

-their traditional way of life...

-..shepherds...

-..and wolves.

-Maramures is Romania's

-poorest region.

-Old traditions

-are at their strongest here.

-Gheorghe from Salistea brought

-his herd to join the others...

-..summering in pastures

-on the Ukraine border.

-Life is hard

-for modern day Romanian shepherds.

-The chance to chat...

-..and share the workload

-is greatly valued.

-Gheorghe's flock joins

-the other shepherds' sheep.

-After settling the sheep

-in a communal pen...

-..they prepare for milking.

-There are hundreds of breeds

-of sheep.

-These are Turcana.

-The dairy sheep

-are milked twice a day.

-The milk is used to make cheese.

-As the Turcana name suggests...

-..large flocks of sheep used

-to be driven here from Turkey...

-..until about 100 years ago.

-Cheese making is a vital

-part of their livelihood.

-They take it in turns.

-Cheese is an important part

-of their daily lives.

-When money is tight...

-..shepherds use it

-instead of money to buy goods.

-The cheese has been separated

-from the whey.

-It's wrapped in damp cloths...

-..and hung in the storeroom

-to ripen.

-After the hard work,

-it's time for a breather.

-The sheep shelter under trees.

-The sun is at its hottest.

-A fence, dogs and Gheorghe

-protect the flocks from enemies.

-The wolf can see the sheep.

-But the pen is like a fortress.

-The wolf knows he won't get in...

-..for now, at least.

-The desolate Tyrol mountains

-are between Austria and Italy.

-It's the habitat

-of the golden eagle.

-The eagle spends its time

-searching for prey.

-Among its targets

-are mountain sheep and lambs.

-According

-to shepherd Johann Gotsch...

-..a handful of mountain herbs are

-as nutritious as a blade of grass.

-Is that what sends

-the sheep higher and higher?

-Whatever the reason, they edge

-closer to the eagle's territory.

-The eagle can see its prey

-from half a mile away.

-In an attack,

-it can reach speeds of 125mph.

-If it isn't hungry,

-it's happy to play with the prey.

-Johann's sheep are safe for now.

-It's a chance to clean

-the sheep's hooves.

-The work of looking after

-his flock never stops...

-..however far they stray.

-The shepherd walks more than 2,000

-miles in the Tyrol every summer...

-..to protect his flock.

-If the Tyrol's terrain challenge the

-shepherd and his flock in summer...

-..how do they cope in winter?

-Winter is the ultimate test

-of the shepherds' toughness.

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-It's the end of winter

-in the Tyrol mountains.

-This is the backdrop to one of the

-most dangerous journeys in Europe...

-..for a shepherd and his flock.

-As winter draws to an end...

-..they must leave the Schnalstal

-Valley in South Tyrol...

-..to reach the pastures of the

-Otztal Valley in the region's north.

-The shepherds must clear a path

-through the snow for the flock.

-Even if the snow

-hasn't melted in spring...

-..they still have

-to start the journey.

-Summer is short in the mountains.

-Waiting for warmer weather

-isn't an option.

-They must go now...

-..although the risk

-of losing animals is high.

-BLEATS

-SHEEP BELLS

-They must carry animals that

-are too ill or weak to carry on.

-After climbing for six hours...

-..they reach the Similaun Pass...

-..and cross the border

-from Italy to Austria...

-..more then 10,000 above sea level.

-There's no-one here

-to check their passports.

-The shepherds carry on.

-BLEATS

-Tyrol has been divided between

-Austria and Italy for a century.

-But tradition

-is stronger than boundaries.

-The shepherds go from South Tyrol to

-the north as if no boundary existed.

-No journey from winter to summer

-pastures is as extreme as this.

-Johann Gotsch will

-carry a lamb for miles...

-..to return it to its mother.

-Johann believes his sheep

-should graze in the same places...

-..as their ancestors.

-But it's a challenge to protect

-lambs in this exposed place.

-They put colour on the lambs' backs,

-hoping to confuse the eagle.

-As Johann checks his flock...

-..he hopes this will be enough

-to protect them in his absence.

-Since the age of the Celts...

-..wild ponies have roamed Snowdonia.

-Here, on Wales's mainland...

-..unlike Bardsey...

-..there is plenty of grazing

-land for ponies and sheep.

-Every year, the sheep have

-to be brought down to be sheared.

-Sheepdogs are essential.

-A dog's instinct is to hunt prey.

-This has been controlled

-by centuries of careful breeding.

-Every day for a week,

-the sheep are driven down...

-..from different parts

-of the mountain...

-..then put in

-the various owners' folds.

-SHOUTING

-Get out!

-There are nine million

-sheep in Wales...

-..three times more than people.

-This is the highest ratio in Europe.

-After the hard work...

-..one dog is curious about

-what happens next to the sheep.

-SHEARING MACHINE

-With so many sheep in Wales...

-..wool will never be scarce.

-The best shearers can finish

-a sheep in less than a minute.

-But a sheepdog isn't

-allowed to be idle for long.

-After the shearing,

-it's the sheepdog trials season.

-BARKS

-Today, each dog must drive

-three sheep over half a mile...

-..and through three gates.

-The trials test

-their obedience and perseverance.

-The task must be completed in seven

-minutes without losing a sheep.

-It's too challenging for some.

-The sheepdog works hard

-for the shepherd all week.

-But on the trials day,

-the dog is the star.

-In Romania, a sheepdog's work

-is very different.

-The flock has to be protected

-from a dangerous enemy.

-Wolves have already caught

-three sheep this summer.

-They're becoming overconfident.

-This wolf considers entering the

-fold without even waiting for night.

-But the Romanian sheepdogs

-immediately spot the danger.

-They're trained to attack an enemy.

-Only the fence

-prevents fierce fighting.

-The dogs win this time.

-The wolf flees...

-..for now...

-..and so does its partner,

-coming from another direction.

-At night, Gheorghe lights

-a fire to ward off the wolves.

-The next morning...

-..Gheorghe and the other shepherds

-can be proud of their dogs.

-Once more, they proved their worth

-and kept the flock safe.

-The journey through

-the Muramures hills continues.

-The dogs keep watch and make sure a

-potential enemy knows they're there.

-They were bred to protect

-sheep flocks on long journeys...

-..through south-eastern Europe.

-Their behaviour

-hasn't changed over the years.

-The Romanian shepherds' work

-would be impossible without them.

-In the Cevennes in France, the dogs

-are known for their fearlessness.

-But even the most fierce dog

-can't protect the flock...

-..from the threat

-of a snake or an eagle.

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-In France's Cevennes mountains...

-..the journey is almost over for the

-sheep, led by the shepherd, Bruno.

-To reach the mountains, he has

-to go through these deep gorges.

-This is the home

-of the griffon vulture.

-The cliff's shelves and crevices

-are perfect for nesting sites...

-..and watching out for

-the annual sheep flocks' arrival.

-Vultures don't kill sheep.

-They feed on dead animals.

-But when the sheep pass,

-the vultures follow them.

-They know they'll get

-a chance for a meal.

-After nine days...

-..Bruno and his flock

-have reached their destination...

-..the fertile meadows

-of La Viallasse.

-Some of the inhabitants have

-to adapt to their new neighbours.

-This snake doesn't want

-to share its territory.

-Its bite could kill an animal

-much bigger than itself.

-But it can't hold its ground

-against so many sheep.

-It's easier to retreat

-to a quieter spot for now.

-But woe betide a sheep that wanders

-too far from the flock...

-..and disturbs the snake.

-It's what happened to this sheep.

-It was bitten by a snake.

-Neige is shepherd

-Bruno's youngest sheepdog.

-It hasn't seen a dead sheep before.

-Neige can't understand

-why it won't get up.

-HOWLS

-The vultures' patience is repaid.

-Twenty descend

-on the sheep's carcass.

-In twenty minutes,

-only bones remain.

-The Cevennes' vultures

-aren't the only ones in Europe.

-The bearded vulture is thriving

-once more in the Tyrol mountains.

-With its ten foot wingspan,

-it's one of Europe's largest birds.

-It's one of the rarest too.

-In German, they're called

-Lammergeier, or lamb killers.

-But in reality, this superb bird...

-..only feeds on dead animals.

-These are Skudde sheep.

-They hold the record

-for being Europe's smallest sheep.

-On average, they're only

-20 inches at the shoulder.

-They're also Europe's oldest breed.

-These tough animals...

-..eat nettles and thistles.

-But they prefer mountain herbs

-when they find them.

-The golden eagle is also

-looking for a tasty morsel.

-Lamb is the first choice.

-It isn't afraid of the shepherd.

-Hoping to snatch a lamb,

-it heads for the flock.

-It tries again.

-But this time,

-it doesn't get its own way.

-The bearded vulture

-has taken against the eagle...

-..possibly seeing it as a rival.

-Making the most of its wider

-wingspan, it attacks the eagle...

-..and drives it away.

-Maybe unintentionally...

-..the vulture has saved

-at least one of Johann's sheep.

-In Spain, the vaqueros,

-or horseback drovers...

-..have almost

-reached their destination.

-They count their cattle

-every morning.

-So far, they've had no more losses.

-They've been travelling

-to the highlands for 25 days.

-The cattle's last challenge

-is climbing this rocky gorge.

-It's too steep for the vaqueros

-to follow them on horseback.

-But the herd know their way

-and follow the same paths as ever...

-..sensing that

-their journey is almost over.

-This is the last test

-of their amazing stamina.

-This is the last stage

-of the annual marathon.

-At the end of the gorge, there

-is water to encourage them onwards.

-This is the River Tajo's source.

-It meanders

-across Spain and Portugal...

-..flowing to the Atlantic,

-more than 600 miles away.

-The shallow water here

-cools the cattle's hooves...

-..as they quench their thirst.

-At last, the herd reaches the

-meadows of Frias De Albarracin...

-..and start grazing at once.

-El Pasajero has completed the

-journey for the twentieth time...

-..and led Spain's largest

-herd to its reward...

-..six months

-to enjoy the sweet pasture...

-..so far from the heat of the south.

-Travelling from winter

-to summer pastures...

-..is a tradition

-that is thousands of years old.

-In the hectic modern world...

-..it seems a more

-relaxed way of life.

-But it's a tough life

-for shepherd and flock...

-..facing wolves and eagles.

-They're driven

-by economic necessity.

-But biodiversity thrives

-as a result.

-The countries where these last

-shepherds work are very different.

-But they all have

-one thing in common.

-They know how to live modestly

-and work with nature...

-..not against it.

-It's October on Bardsey.

-For the sheep, it's time

-for the year's biggest journey.

-Steve chooses the sheep and lambs

-that leave the island this year.

-Bardsey can't support

-a high number of sheep.

-Overgrazing would impact

-the island's ability...

-..to maintain

-all its birds and plants.

-Bardsey can support

-300 sheep at most.

-It's an unusual way to move sheep.

-The shepherd becomes

-a sailor for a while...

-..and the sheep face

-a short cruise across the Sound.

-Their hesitantly step

-onto the mainland.

-Moving from summer

-to winter pastures and back...

-..requires bravery

-from animals and shepherds alike.

-But there are advantages.

-These sheep will have pastures...

-..with marvellous views

-of their native island.

-And when leading their flocks to

-greener pastures all over Europe...

-..the shepherds know

-they're continuing a tradition.

-They enjoy a different relationship

-with the world around them.

-Maybe in this respect, they have

-an important lesson for us...

-..how to lead a modest

-and sustainable life.

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