Llanbedrog-Castell Cricieth Arfordir Cymru


Llanbedrog-Castell Cricieth

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-This white strip

-where land meets sea...

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-..is littered with remarkable

-names, tales and characters.

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-This is the Llyn coastline.

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-In this programme, we travel east...

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-..from the village of Llanbedrog,

-passing Pwllheli...

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-..and on to Criccieth.

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-"An expanse of land

-stretching to the horizon."

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-That's John and Alun's description

-of this peninsula...

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-..with its many

-different characteristics.

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-Its landscape and history

-can often surprise you.

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-Travelling towards Llanbedrog...

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-..the most notable feature

-is Tir y Cwmwd headland...

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-..and the quarry remains

-of Tan y Mynydd...

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-..Gwaith Canol and Gwaith Trwyn.

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-Nestled in the headland

-is Plas Glyn-y-Weddw.

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-Today, it's an art gallery.

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-It represents the roots...

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-..of a comparatively

-modern industry locally.

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-Iwan Hughes spent many years

-lobster fishing.

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-He now works in Glyn-y-Weddw.

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-I've travelled a long way

-along the peninsula.

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-It's mostly farmland but quarries

-are dotted along the way.

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-The remains of the granite

-quarries are found on Tir y Cwmwd.

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-There's been a lot of work

-in this area.

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-I would say that over a hundred

-people would have worked there.

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-Llanbedrog grew considerably in

-the second half of the 19th century.

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-The quarries have now closed down.

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-Tourism is a far more important

-industry now.

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-The history of the tourism industry

-stretches back to the 19th century.

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-Solomon Andrews had great vision

-in that respect.

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-He bought Plas Glyn-y-Weddw in 1896.

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-He renovated the house

-and the gardens for tourism.

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-A tramway was developed

-to bring visitors here.

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-He brought his customers

-from Pwllheli.

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-He was a Cardiff businessman

-and he saw potential in the area.

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-How did the tram work?

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-It was a horse-drawn tram -

-with one horse pulling it.

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-A track tramway

-stretched from Pwllheli...

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-..from the junction

-between Ala Road and Cardiff Road.

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-The station was nearby, in front

-of the church in Llanbedrog.

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-It was a major attraction

-at the time.

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-Its main feature

-was its art gallery.

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-Paintings by some prominent artists

-of the time were exhibited here.

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-The gardens were open to the public.

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-A network of footpaths led

-to the vineyard and nearby forest.

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-The park in front of the house

-stretched all the way to the beach.

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-There was a tearoom,

-orchestras played in the afternoon.

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-There were also concerts

-during the evenings.

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-There was quite a lot going on here.

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-There was quite a lot going on here.

-

-It's a wonderful location.

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-It's easy to see

-how people are attracted to it.

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-Tell me more about the name -

-Plas Glyn-y-Weddw.

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-The widow of Sir Love Jones-Parry

-built the house in 1857...

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-..with the intention of moving here

-to live when her son married.

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-Her son never married

-during her lifetime.

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-She never moved here to live.

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-She would regularly visit...

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-..and enjoyed staying

-at the house and its gardens.

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-She had a collection of art.

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-The architect designed the house

-with the intention...

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-..of exhibiting the artwork.

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-She was the widow.

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-She was the widow.

-

-Elizabeth Love Jones-Parry.

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-The house was built perfectly

-to become an art gallery.

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-Most places on Llyn

-are close to the sea.

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-It's no surprise that the area has

-produced its fair share of sailors.

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-One of those was Hugh Hughes,

-Gellidara, Penrhos...

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-..captain of the Eagle.

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-Hugh Hughes was a man of religion.

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-He would conduct services

-on board the Eagle.

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-One Sunday night in Falmouth,

-in 1843...

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-..his service was heard

-by 300 sailors...

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-..who'd congregated on the Eagle

-from 50 nearby Welsh ships.

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-Hugh Hughes would notify other

-sailors about his services...

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-..by flying a very special banner.

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-It was a blue banner

-similar to this...

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-..with the word Bethel

-in white on it.

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-A star in one corner and a dove

-with an olive branch in its mouth.

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-The meaning of Bethel

-is God's house.

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-When Hugh Hughes retired

-from the sea in 1847...

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-..he married the daughter

-of Gellidara, Penrhos.

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-When a new chapel was built

-in Penrhos in the 1860s...

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-..Hugh Hughes insisted

-it was called Bethel...

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-..in memory of the time

-he conducted services at sea.

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-After a two-minute car journey...

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-..I arrive at the coastal town

-of Pwllheli.

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-Walking the streets, I observe

-names connected to the sea...

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-..even though the seaside is now

-relatively far from the town centre.

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-To shed light on this confusion...

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-..I visit

-the Pwllheli lifeboat shed...

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-..to see Owen Roberts,

-a boat engineer for many years.

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-Now, you were born and raised

-in Pwllheli.

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-Yes.

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-I was born near a window

-that overlooked the harbour.

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-I remember the sailboats...

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-..and goods ships sailing in.

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-That's where my interest started.

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-You've spent a long time

-in this shed.

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-Yes.

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-The shed is evident

-in old photographs.

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-Oh, yes.

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-There was nothing around it.

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-There was nothing around it.

-

-Nothing around it.

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-This huge expanse of rock

-behind the shed...

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-..very little of it remains now.

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-What was it?

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-What was it?

-

-Carreg Yr Imbill (Gimlet Rock).

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-The rock has almost

-all disappeared now.

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-What happened to the material

-that was quarried here?

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-It was transported

-to the large English cities...

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-..and to places

-such as Hamburg in Germany.

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-People in Hamburg are walking on

-sections of Carreg Yr Imbill today.

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-It appears so.

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-I know you contributed maps

-for the publication of this book...

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-..by Dafydd Glyn Lloyd Hughes

-on the history of Pwllheli.

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-It shows the remarkable changes

-that have been.

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-In truth, on the first map...

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-..Carreg yr Imbill

-is in the middle of the sea!

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-You imagine this was

-just a sandbank around the 1280s.

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-Oh, yes.

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-There is an old map

-and it shows the rock out at sea...

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-..beyond Pwllheli,

-with no surrounding land.

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-In the second map,

-more sand is visible around it.

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-It grew around it.

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-There were many fords to cross.

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-This ford is called Rhydliniog.

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-There's a street

-with a similar name.

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-Penrhydliniog.

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-Or 'Pentref' as the people

-of Penrhydliniog called it.

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-There were so many small lakes

-around there.

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-The street...

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-..well, it practically follows

-the same path as the ford.

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-As you walk through Pwllheli,

-you notice instantly...

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-..the names of streets

-such as Y Traeth and Penylan.

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-Such names jump out at you.

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-The sea is relatively far

-from the town.

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-I know that your brother

-is an artist.

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-This picture was on

-the sailing club's calendar.

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-It might show what Pwllheli

-was like. Can you tell us more?

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-What draws your attention

-is the mount.

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-Behind the mount

-is a saltwater lake.

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-The 'pwll heli' (saltwater lake).

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-The tide would come in

-and saltwater would fill the lake.

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-When the tide went out, there was

-a sandbank where the beach is.

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-The lake was full of saltwater.

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-This picture clearly shows

-the existence of a beach.

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-Is this where the street

-named Y Traeth is now?

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-Yes, the road that comes in

-from Caernarfon.

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-There's a street

-called Lon Dywod (Sand Way).

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-This is where the tide came in.

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-This created quite a quandary

-at the time...

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-..because they wanted English names.

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-Y Traeth wasn't considered

-a nice name.

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-Sand Street - that was better.

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-Lon Dywod - they didn't have

-a name for Lon Dywod.

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-It was renamed New Street.

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-Lon Dywod was New Street...

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-..and Traeth was Sand Street!

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-There was time in Pwllheli when

-everything was being Anglicized.

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-They wanted to change

-the name of the town.

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-There were many options.

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-Albertville... all kinds of names.

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-Really?

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-Really?

-

-Yes.

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-One person suggested Salt Lake City!

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-I think that those kind of jokes

-made them give it all up.

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-They kept the name Pwllheli.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

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-I'm on a journey

-across Llyn's coastline...

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-..searching for the area's

-remarkable place names and tales.

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-Near Pwllheli is a village

-whose name suggests...

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-..that the river Erch

-should flow to the sea here.

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-But it doesn't.

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-The first thing

-that interests me here...

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-..is seeing the sign - Abererch.

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-You hear some people

-pronouncing it as 'Berch'.

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-What should I be saying?

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-Berch!

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-There's an overcompensation

-in the pronunciation...

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-..often in official forms.

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-The University of Wales Press

-adopt a caesura...

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-..to ensure that everyone

-pronounces the three syllables.

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-That's a mistake.

-The old pronunciation was Abererch.

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-That's been lost

-and it's become Berch locally.

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-The same happened with Bermo and

-Berffro - Aberffraw became Berffro.

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-The emphasis

-is on the penultimate syllable.

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-The name appears as one word

-in the Black Book of Carmarthen.

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-"Bedd Rhydderch Hael in Abererch."

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-Abererch is a significant

-mispronunciation as it stands now.

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-I'll fit in with the locals

-and say Berch.

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-Where's the River Erch from here?

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-The River Erch

-flows down from the Eifl...

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-..and it travels south.

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-It flowed out to sea...

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-..in Berch, hence the name.

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-It doesn't now and hasn't done since

-the Dark Ages or the Middle Ages.

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-It's changed its course

-and flows to the sea in Pwllheli.

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-The word 'erch' means grey.

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-It merges with Afon Ddu

-(black river) here.

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-The landscape has also changed

-through human interference.

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-The main change happened...

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-..two centuries ago

-to the year before last, in 1813.

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-Sea embankments were built

-either side of Pwllheli.

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-The embankment on this side

-reclaimed a lot of land...

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-..land that was subsequently sold

-to local landowners.

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-That land remains under sea level.

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-There's a high-tide rock in

-a field near Yr Odyn in Berch.

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-That had to be submerged...

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-..to allow enough depth in the sea

-for limestone ships to dock.

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-They measured the tide

-against the rock.

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-If the rock wasn't submerged,

-the water wasn't deep enough.

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-There's a wonderful view

-from this highland.

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-I can visualise the whole story.

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-What on earth is this rock

-we're stood on?

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-Cadair Cawrdaf Sant

-(Cawrdaf's Seat).

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-Cawrdaf is the patron saint

-of Berch...

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-..and Miskin in Mid Glamorgan.

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-I don't know of anywhere else

-in North Wales, apart from Berch...

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-..where he is the patron saint.

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-When people would travel on their

-pilgrimages to Bardsey Island...

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-..they would stop and sit here.

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-The pilgrim's path to Bardsey

-was just beyond here...

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-..just at the bottom of this field.

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-According to legend, the pilgrims

-would rest and sit here...

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-..and receive a blessing

-before crossing the sound.

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-I don't know the details

-of the blessing...

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-..but I believe

-it helped them cross the sound.

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-It must have.

-At least they had great views.

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-They sat because they were tired!

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-After passing Carreg Pen Llanw

-(High Tide Rock) in Berch...

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-..I head back to Pwllheli...

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-..to launch my boat.

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-This is a very busy harbour.

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-A wide variety of boats

-benefit from recent developments.

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-There's some safety here

-but it should be remembered...

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-..that these shores

-can be perilous...

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-..even when it's calm.

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-On July 1, 1899...

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-..members of the Llanddeiniolen

-parish church congregated here...

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-..for a Sunday school trip.

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-Some ventured out into the bay

-in a boat.

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-The boat capsized, 12 drowned...

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-..and the only one who survived

-was the oarsman.

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-As I leave Pwllheli to the backdrop

-of Carreg Yr Imbill...

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-..I head to the ocean.

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-South of Pwllheli is Sarn Badrig...

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-..an underwater shingle reef

-extending across the bay.

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-Some claim the reef is the remains

-of Cantre'r Gwaelod...

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-..the mythological kingdom

-buried by the sea.

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-The romanticists among us associate

-Pen Ychain with Cantre'r Gwaelod.

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-The prince of Cantre'r Gwaelod

-was Gwyddno Garanhir.

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-According to some, his groan when he

-realised his kingdom was drowning...

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-..inspired the name Pen Ochain

-(Groaning Head).

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-Whatever the truth, Sarn Badrig

-is a perilous stretch for sailors.

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-With the tide out, six ships ran

-aground during the last century.

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-Easy does it as you sail

-past the Dwyfor estuary...

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-..and on to Criccieth.

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-Reaching Criccieth from the sea

-is an exceptional experience...

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-..as you become dwarfed

-by the castle on the hill.

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-It reminds you of your place

-in the world.

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-The safety of being up there...

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-..and the uncertainty

-of being down here, on the sea.

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-We've certainly reached

-a historic town.

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-Criccieth's business centre once

-stood to the east of the castle.

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-It inspired the name

-Abermarchnad (Market Estuary).

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-For years, people congregated here

-every Sunday night to sing hymns.

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-It was some chapel.

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-Criccieth Castle has stood

-on this rock for almost 800 years.

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-Eight centuries

-of guarding Cardigan Bay...

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-..and reigning over

-this corner of Eifionydd.

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-It's still imposing today.

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-Can you imagine standing

-on this beach centuries ago...

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-..and seeing the castle walls

-looking down on you.

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-Gwyneth, this castle

-is in such a special location.

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-You're used to seeing it every day.

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-I'm here almost every day.

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-My son, Maelgwn,

-enjoys playing here.

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-He wears his Owain Glyndwr tabard

-and terrorises holidaymakers.

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-Generations of my family

-have played here.

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-Mam played cowboys and Indians here

-with her friends in the 1950s.

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-Before that, my great uncle Robat,

-he hated school.

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-He would escape every day

-through the school window...

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-..and no-one knew where he went.

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-He would hide here.

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-There's no better place. A wonderful

-bay and a castle across the water.

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-It's a special location.

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-Ten years ago, Taid, in his 90s

-at the time, walked along the prom.

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-An old man came up to him and asked

-if he'd lived here all his life.

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-"Yes," replied Taid.

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-He then asked, "Is there

-another chateau over here?"

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-Taid pointed through the mist

-to Harlech Castle.

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-"Yes indeed."

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-"Ah, then I am in the right place.

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-"During the war,

-we were here in a U-boat."

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-Taid said lucky he hadn't landed.

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-The Criccieth Home Guard

-wasn't up to much at the time.

0:21:150:21:19

-The history stretches back further.

0:21:190:21:21

-The castle was built by Llywelyn

-the Great in the 13th century.

0:21:210:21:25

-His son, Dafydd, imprisoned his

-brother Gruffydd ap Llywelyn Fawr.

0:21:260:21:31

-Edward I captured the castle.

0:21:310:21:34

-It became a prison for many years...

0:21:340:21:37

-..until Owain Glyndwr destroyed

-the castle in the 15th century.

0:21:380:21:43

-The use of the castle as a prison

-led to the name Criccieth.

0:21:440:21:48

-During the Middle Ages

-it was called Treferthyr...

0:21:480:21:53

-..after St Catherine who was

-murdered by a Roman emperor.

0:21:530:21:58

-One explanation suggest its origin

-as 'crug' (hill)...

0:21:580:22:03

-..and 'caeth' (imprisoned)

-after the prisoners.

0:22:030:22:07

-Having said that, the common use

-of 'caeth' during the Middle Ages...

0:22:070:22:12

-..was 'taeog' (servile).

0:22:120:22:14

-It could refer to native serfs.

0:22:140:22:16

-There's still a lot of discussion

-about doubling the C.

0:22:170:22:21

-Some say it should be double because

-of 'crug' and 'caeth' - g and c.

0:22:210:22:25

-Others argue that it doesn't happen

-in Welsh grammar.

0:22:250:22:29

-As a local,

-where do you stand on it?

0:22:290:22:32

-As an Eifionydd girl,

-it should have only one C!

0:22:320:22:35

-What's funny is when someone comes

-to Criccieth from Llanystumdwy...

0:22:350:22:41

-..sometimes there are two Cs

-on the official sign...

0:22:410:22:45

-..and sometimes there's one

-after someone painted over it.

0:22:450:22:50

-People will discuss and argue

-about it for many years to come.

0:22:500:22:55

-Are you the painter?

0:22:550:22:56

-Are you the painter?

-

-Not me!

0:22:560:22:58

-One thing the debate

-of Criccieth's name shows...

0:23:160:23:19

-..is that people care

-about place names...

0:23:200:23:23

-..their spelling

-and their meanings.

0:23:230:23:26

-This is because everyone feels

-an instinctive ownership of them.

0:23:260:23:31

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:500:23:52

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0:23:520:23:52

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