Aberaeron- Llangrannog Arfordir Cymru


Aberaeron- Llangrannog

Bydd Bedwyr Rees yn teithio o Aberaeron i Langrannog. On his journey from Aberaeron to Llangrannog, Bedwyr goes on a pleasure boat in New Quay and tries lobster fishing in Llang...


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Transcript


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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

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-Smugglers, fishermen...

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-..echoes of early Irish visitors...

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-..and enchanting legends,

-names and history.

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-They all dote on this coastline.

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-This is Arfordir Cymru.

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-In this episode,

-we journey from Aberaeron...

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-..past New Quay and Cwmtydu to

-the fishing village of Llangrannog.

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-As we travel southwards

-between Aberaeron and New Quay...

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-..the shores are littered

-with caves and waterfalls.

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-There are coves with quaint names

-such as Cilfach yr Halen...

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-..and areas like this...

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-..where the River Drywi flows

-over the headland to the beach.

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-It looks as if

-it should belong in a fairytale.

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-Before reaching New Quay

-we pass Cei Bach...

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-..a sandy beach below Llanina.

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-Shipbuilding was big business here

-at one time...

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-..but that industry

-has since ceased.

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-However, what does remain

-are the legends.

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-Some claim Ina was a king...

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-..who reigned over Wessex

-at the turn of the eighth century.

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-He was shipwrecked here...

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-..and the local residents

-took care of him.

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-Once they repaired his boat...

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-..King Ina promised to return

-to found a church here.

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-That church has long gone

-but another dedicated to Ina...

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-..has stood here ever since.

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-The small church,

-a short distance inland...

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-..is at the least the third church.

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-It may even possibly be the seventh.

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-A short row away

-and we pass Carreg Ina...

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-..between the buoy and the land.

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-Hard to know if Ina was shipwrecked

-here, but once past the stone...

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-..New Quay opens up in front of you.

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-Many say it provided the inspiration

-for Dylan Thomas' characters...

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-..of the fictional Llareggub...

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-..with its clusters of houses

-overlooking the fishing boats.

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-New Quay is still a working harbour

-for some, though many boats...

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-..now cater for visitors

-who come in their droves...

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-..to enjoy the waves and play on the

-pale-coloured sands of Traeth Gwyn.

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-If you'd stood on Traeth Gwyn

-300 years ago...

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-..you'd have seen

-an old altar tomb called Hengell.

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-Within a tomb...

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-..were four stone walls

-and a flat stone on top of them.

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-In a similar tomb on Traeth Gwyn

-lived a man named Gwynestrin.

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-After being at a banquet

-where two princes were murdered...

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-..one of whom was Ceredig,

-who gave his name to Ceredigion...

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-..he fled across

-the River Ystwyth in a coracle...

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-..and landed here.

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-Once his shattered sanity

-and broken body had recovered...

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-..he vowed to heal, educate

-and impart his wisdom to the locals.

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-People referred to him

-as the man in the cell.

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-The altar tomb was swept out to sea.

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-These days, Hengell

-is the name of a caravan site...

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-..the only linguistic reminder

-of a man who lived as a hermit...

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-..in self-abnegation.

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-The act of fleeing has remained

-a theme in this area thereafter.

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-Arba Cottages...

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-..are the result

-of one significant case.

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-In 1832 the squire of Llanina House

-told his shipbuilders...

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-..that they had to vote

-for the Tories or lose their homes.

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-The workers were fervent Liberals...

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-..so they moved out and came here...

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-..defying

-their employer's authority...

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-..to found their own village.

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-They called it Arba after the city

-of refuge referred to in the Bible.

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-Not everyone here

-wants to retreat from the world.

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-There are those

-who welcome people with open arms.

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-David Winston Evans sails

-his pleasure boats from New Quay.

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-Were you born and raised

-in New Quay, Winston?

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-Yes, a long time ago now.

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-What has been your job

-over the years?

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-I was a fisherman fishing

-for mackerel, lobsters, crabs.

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-That's what I used to do

-many years ago before I gave it up.

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-I'd fish for anything, scallops or

-whatever, as long as I made money!

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-You also served with the lifeboat.

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-Yes, I was with

-the lifeboat crew 29 years.

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-I joined as a young man.

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-My father and many of his friends

-died young, around 50 years of age.

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-There was no-one to replace them...

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-..which is why I joined

-at such a young age.

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-I was a coxswain at 26.

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-You were a coxswain at 26?

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-You were a coxswain at 26?

-

-You know it all at that age!

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-At least you think you do.

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-Where would you say is your patch

-along this stretch of coastline?

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-For years I thought my patch

-stretched from here to Ynys Lochtyn.

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-But that didn't last.

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-As the fishing industry

-deteriorated...

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-..it was odd because more and more

-men were becoming fishermen.

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-Most are still fishing these waters.

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-When I was catching lots of lobsters

-I wasn't getting paid for them.

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-Or, at least,

-I wasn't getting a good price.

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-When I chat to people

-on my travels...

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-..I like to collect the names

-of rocks, headlands and so on.

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-I tend to sketch small maps by hand.

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-I have to apologize, Winston,

-because this one's very poor.

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-It's not very detailed,

-but what's behind us here?

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-Ogof Ddeuben.

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-Ogof Ddeuben? Why is it called that?

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-Go in through one and out

-through the other in a small boat.

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-Did people do that years ago?

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-There were those, before my time,

-who rowed down here...

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-..and charged people two shillings

-for the privilege.

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-They charged people for

-rowing them through Ogof Ddeuben?

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-Then they started using outboards.

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-Ogof Deuben, yes?

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-Carreg Walltog.

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-Coast Guards use it as target

-practice and throw the line across.

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-A rocket line.

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-Then there's an obvious rock

-around the corner.

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-Y Draenog (hedgehog).

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-On account of its shape?

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-It doesn't look like a hedgehog

-to me but that's what it's called!

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-And as we head for Cwmtydu?

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-And as we head for Cwmtydu?

-

-You come to Cwm Silio first...

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-..before Cwmtydu.

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-Cwm Silio.

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-A mini version of Cwmtydu.

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-And then there's Traeth y Coubal...

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-..and Hirallt.

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-However,

-there are no hills to speak of.

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-It refers to the high ground.

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-Hirallt.

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-What happens to names

-like Ynys Walltog and Draenog?

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-Are they still used?

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-Are they still used?

-

-No, I don't think so.

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-There are fewer Welsh speakers

-in the area nowadays.

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-That's now called Target Rock.

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-Ynys Walltog is now Target Rock?

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-Yes. Y Draenog

-doesn't even have a name now.

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-For years I used to think

-it was called Bird Rock.

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-But it's Y Draenog.

-Bird Rock is around the corner.

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-How has

-the New Quay community changed?

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-There's no community in winter.

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-I'm lucky

-on the street where I live...

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-..that every house apart from one

-is lived in.

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-Of the three terraces behind the

-pier, only six houses out of 30...

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-..are lived in.

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-I don't know what the answer is.

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-I've no idea

-what should be done about it.

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-They trialled something

-six months ago on the south coast.

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-But I've heard no more about it.

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-If I were selling my house

-and one person offered me 6,000...

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-..and the other offered 12,000,

-I know which one would get it!

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-We're all the same.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

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-Our journey along Cardigan Bay by

-boat, car and on foot continues...

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-..as we reach

-the south of the county...

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-..in a part of the country

-teeming with legends.

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-Some are archaic

-whilst others are more contemporary.

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-Having left New Quay, we head

-for the narrow beach of Cwmtydu.

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-It's possible that it's named after

-an anonymous person called Tydu...

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-..though there are several records

-of the form Cwmtudur...

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-..and local tradition associates

-the place with Henry Tudor.

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-Whatever the truth

-behind Tydu or Tudur...

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-..there's a tradition

-of recording names.

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-This rock beneath my foot

-is called Craig yr Enwau.

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-Years ago, every big Thursday,

-the third Thursday in August...

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-..a festival was held here

-with games such as quoits throwing.

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-Young people were challenged to swim

-across the mouth of the bay...

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-..from one side to the other.

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-The village's Sanhedrin would watch

-from the top of the lime kiln.

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-If they were satisfied with what

-they saw, they raised their thumbs.

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-The young people were then allowed

-to carve their names into this rock.

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-Few of the names

-have been preserved nowadays.

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-There's a photograph

-in John Meirion Jones' book...

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-..from the 1970s...

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-..where the names

-can be seen clearly in the rock.

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-We might've done more historical

-things in this series...

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-..but I don't think

-we've been anywhere...

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-..quite as fitting

-as Craig yr Enwau (Rock of Names).

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-As I look at this narrow,

-hidden beach...

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-..it's hard to think

-of anywhere more suitable...

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-..for illegal nocturnal activities.

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-Cwmtydu beach

-was one of the favourite haunts...

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-..of the famous smuggler,

-Sion Cwilt.

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-He'd cross the beacons

-with his donkeys...

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-..to meet ships that were

-unloading wines, spirits and so on.

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-It's hard to imagine

-how many contraband items...

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-..passed over this gravel and sand

-during the 18th century.

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-Even Sir Herbert Lloyd,

-the area's high sheriff...

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-..was one of Sion Cwilt's

-most loyal customers.

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-Like every folk hero worth his salt,

-Sion Cwilt's fate is unclear...

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-..after he vanished from the area...

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-..once the authorities

-got wind of his antics.

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-There's also uncertainty

-over his name.

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-It's possible that his real name

-was John White or Sion Sais to some.

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-Some claim that the name Cwilt...

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-..came from

-the colourful coat he wore.

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-Others claim it's a corruption

-of gwyllt (wild)...

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-..which suits his character.

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-Whatever the truth behind the name,

-the story proves one thing.

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-That not everyone in these parts

-was a saint!

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-There are plenty of saints

-to be had, mind you.

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-A few miles south of Cwmtydu

-and we reach Llangrannog.

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-The Church of Saint Carannog.

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-Before the 16th century, Llangrannog

-was better known as a cave...

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-..after Ogof Carannog,

-situated behind the church.

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-Churches are dedicated to him

-in Brittany, Cornwall and Somerset.

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-They're all

-far enough away from the sea...

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-..to be out of sight of smugglers

-who patrolled the coastline.

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-This dualism, the relationship

-between land and sea...

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-..has always shaped Llangrannog.

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-There were two villages here

-originally.

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-Pentre'r Eglwys and Pentre'r Traeth,

-with a strip of houses linking them.

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-Someone born and raised here and who

-continues the fishing tradition...

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-..is Mickey Beechey.

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-These yellow pots are all mine.

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-We'll follow the coastline

-around to the first pot...

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-..and we'll start lifting them then.

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-Can you see the first one?

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-Can you see its shape?

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-Can you see its shape?

-

-Yes, it's like that.

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-That's why they call it

-Drws yr Eglwys.

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-It's perfect from this angle.

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-You see that cliff in the distance?

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-It's called Y Gaer Clwyd

-but we refer to it as Garclwyd.

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-They say it's the highest cliff

-in West Wales.

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-Let's see what we have here.

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-Lobster.

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-I think that's a little too small.

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-That's a good size. I don't have to

-measure that one. That's fine.

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-There are a lot of ripples today.

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-They make it difficult because you

-must keep the balance as you lift.

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-This is a good boat, Mickey.

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-It's a great shape. When it's

-choppy, it cuts through the waves.

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-It makes you feel safe.

-Do you feel safe in it?

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-Yes, I do.

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-How often do you

-check the cages during the week?

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-Depends on the weather

-but I could go out every day.

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-I have cages to catch lobster...

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-..and nets to catch sea bass.

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-I'm sure

-every day is different here.

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-I never tire of it. It lifts my

-spirits. I don't know what it is.

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-I was born and raised in the village

-and came fishing with my uncle...

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-..and my brothers off Ynys Lochtyn

-before we had a boat.

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-I never tire of the place.

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-I never tire of the place.

-

-There are worse offices to have!

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-There are lovely names dotted

-all around from Llangrannog.

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-Names all the way along.

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-From the moment we left Traeth

-Llangrannog or Traeth y Pentref.

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-But over the years, things have been

-changed and people forget the names.

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-About 20 years ago...

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-..I went to visit a local woman

-called Beryl Jones, Angorfa.

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-I asked her what these places

-were called when she was young.

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-I listed the names

-of the cliffs, beaches and rocks...

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-..and since then, we,

-as Welsh-speaking locals...

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-..have kept those names going.

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-From Traeth Llangrannog, you come

-northwards to Traeth Cilborth...

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-..and the next one up is Yr Ysglan.

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-Ysglan?

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-The next one up...

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-..is Porth Henri

-and then Pwll Dafydd and Pwll Ifan.

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-There's a large rock by Pwll Ifan

-called Carreg Ifan.

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-I don't suppose

-we know who Ifan was?

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-No, neither do we know

-who Henri or Dafydd were.

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-But it's obvious these places...

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-..were named after

-the village's characters.

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-It's nice to retain those names.

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-People move in

-from across the border...

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-..and they just refer to them as

-first bay, second bay, third bay...

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-..which sounds very sad.

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-The history's gone then, isn't it?

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-The history's gone then, isn't it?

-

-Of course.

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-They all have Welsh names.

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-Legends are associated with them,

-such as Carreg Bica.

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-A giant called Bica

-complained of toothache one time.

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-He removed the tooth

-that was causing him pain...

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-..and threw it into the sea.

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-They claim that Carreg Bica

-evolved from the giant's tooth.

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-It's an odd shape, isn't it?

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-I know you cast your net near

-somewhere called Carreg y Morwynion.

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-Centuries ago, there was

-a legend about three sisters...

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-..who lived at either Morfa Canol

-or Morfa Fechan Farm.

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-Legend has it

-that the three sisters...

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-..wanted to go swimming

-on a Sunday, on the Sabbath....

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-..but their mother

-wasn't willing for them to go.

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-It was a sunny summer's day...

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-..and they swam out to this rock.

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-Once they reached the rock,

-the storm picked up...

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-..the wind howled

-and the sea became choppy.

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-They couldn't get back to the beach

-and the three sisters drowned.

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-The legend,

-which remains to this day...

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-..is that if you go there at night,

-you hear the three of them singing.

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-These legends

-are entwined with the names.

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-If you lose the name,

-then the legend dies with it.

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-Yes, indeed.

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-We're lucky as a family

-and as a group of friends...

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-..that we're all Welsh speakers.

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-I take my nieces and nephews

-out on the boat.

0:20:260:20:29

-I tell them the names

-and they come fishing with me.

0:20:300:20:33

-It's important we keep that going.

0:20:340:20:36

-It connects us with villagers

-from centuries ago.

0:20:360:20:40

-Yes, so it's important

-we keep it going.

0:20:400:20:43

-It's easy enough to be lazy

-and call it another name...

0:20:430:20:49

-..that's easier to pronounce...

0:20:490:20:51

-..but it's just a matter

-of learning the name.

0:20:510:20:54

-It's easy enough

-to learn their names.

0:20:550:20:57

-Tourism has since replaced fishing

-as Llangrannog's main industry...

0:21:280:21:32

-..and is reflected

-in the place names.

0:21:320:21:35

-But names that have been forgotten

-over time isn't a recent thing.

0:21:350:21:40

-On high ground

-looking down on Llangrannog...

0:21:520:21:55

-..on what was once

-an important trading route...

0:21:560:21:59

-..between Cardigan

-and north Ceredigion...

0:21:590:22:02

-..is a rock called Carreg Eisteddfa

-where poets and dignitaries met.

0:22:030:22:07

-People tried to create an

-association with the Eisteddfod...

0:22:070:22:11

-..but that's a tenuous link.

0:22:110:22:14

-It shows us how much history

-exists in this area...

0:22:140:22:17

-..and how much of it we've lost.

0:22:170:22:20

-Even if Carreg Eisteddfa doesn't

-fulfil any specific purpose...

0:22:200:22:24

-..it's a great place to stall

-at the end of a journey...

0:22:240:22:28

-..and reflect on life.

0:22:280:22:30

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:030:23:05

-.

0:23:050:23:05

Bydd Bedwyr Rees yn teithio o Aberaeron i Langrannog. On his journey from Aberaeron to Llangrannog, Bedwyr goes on a pleasure boat in New Quay and tries lobster fishing in Llangrannog.