Trewern Ganol Caeau Cymru


Trewern Ganol

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-This time,

-we're on the border with England.

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-Shropshire, to be precise.

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-Thankfully, the field names on this

-side of Offa's Dyke have survived.

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-Welcome to Caeau Cymru.

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-By studying field names, we can

-unlock the secrets of rural Wales.

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-Fields often give us the key

-to the mysteries of history.

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-In this series, we reveal the

-purpose and function of the land...

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-..and tell the stories

-which are interwoven with the land.

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-Historian and expert Dr Rhian Parry

-helps me on my journey...

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-..which begins this week

-in the National Library.

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-This is an 1841 Tithe map of the

-parish of Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant.

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-We're not on the road this week,

-we're on the roads...

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-..and on two borders.

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-Yes, and the borders are vital.

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-We're eight miles from the border

-between Wales and England...

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-..and we're on the border between

-the old Powys dividing line...

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-..between Powys Fadog

-and Powys Wenwynwyn.

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-It's a strategically important spot.

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-It's

-close to Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant...

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-..which had a very early

-market charter, dating back to 1284.

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-Everyone in this area sold

-their livestock at this market.

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-Once they were sold,

-drovers would walk them to England.

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-The roads which cross the farm

-are very important.

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-What farm will we visit?

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-What farm will we visit?

-

-Trewern Ganol.

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-It's called Trewern Farm

-on the Tithe map.

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-What about the fields?

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-There are many interesting names

-in the schedules...

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-..but among those we'll focus on

-are Wern Fach Hir.

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-Gwern is in the name of the farm,

-and gwern is a common name.

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-The difference here

-is it's present in old documents...

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-..and it sheds light

-on some questions which we'll pose.

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-Cae'r Felin - Mill Field.

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-It's logical there was a mill here

-with River Iwrch flowing past it.

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-Then, we have Maes Y Sarn.

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-Sarn means major road.

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-Like Sarn Helen, this was

-a main road, not a small farm track.

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-We want to find out

-a bit more about Maes Y Sarn.

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-We often come across field names

-which have changed over time...

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-..but, thanks to Rhian's research,

-we discovered that Trewern Ganol...

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-..a farm in Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant,

-close to the border with England...

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-..was once called Plas Uchaf -

-Upper Manor House.

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-It was an important farm

-and it's steeped in history.

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-It's rural

-but it doesn't feel remote.

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-This has been a busy farm

-down the centuries.

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-Yes, and Trewern relied on

-constant comings and goings...

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-..between Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant

-and the border here.

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-This feels different

-from farms further west.

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-It feels like a gentry farm.

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-We're not far from England and

-that plays a part in this story.

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-Yes, you can feel an English

-influence at every turning...

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-..starting with the methods

-they adopted to treat the land.

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-These manor houses were the homes

-of relatively powerful families...

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-..who administered

-these small estates...

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-..on a feudal pattern almost,

-with servants working for them.

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-That happened in every townlet

-in the parish of Mochnant.

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-The English name for this place

-was recorded as early as 1086.

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-Yes, the old English name Alretone.

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-That is, alder plus town.

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-Exactly the same as Tref Gwern

-in Welsh.

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-The two names existed side by side,

-which is interesting.

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-Tom Morris now farms Trewern Ganol.

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-His great-grandfather

-bought the farm in 1858.

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-The sale catalogue shows

-that it was sold by Henfache Estate.

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-Tom is the third generation

-to live and work here...

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-..and his sons

-have kept the tradition alive.

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-This is a wonderful spot to come and

-cast your eye over your kingdom.

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-Yes, we're right in the middle

-of the farm here.

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-You can look down at Trewern,

-down Iwrch Valley...

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-..towards Tanat Valley.

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-That's Llwyn Bryn Dinas,

-an Iron Age hill fort.

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-Does this field have a name?

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-Yes. This is Cae Boncin -

-Hummock Field.

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-The land certainly rises here.

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-The land certainly rises here.

-

-Yes, it's an apt name.

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-Did you come here, as a child?

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-Yes, I loved coming up here.

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-I'd sit on a rock over there

-and gaze at all these fields.

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-It's a special place.

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-We know there was a mill at Trewern

-centuries ago...

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-..and Cae'r Felin - Mill Field

-is over there.

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-Yes, it's recorded as Cae'r Felin

-on the ancient maps...

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-..but I call it Cae Bach...

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-..and so did my ancestors.

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-River Iwrch flowed up there,

-between the trees.

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-A ditch which stretched

-from the top of the field...

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-..carried water down here,

-to the mill.

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-Around the 1860s,

-they rerouted the ditch...

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-..diverting the water down here,

-to this mill...

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-..with its brand new waterwheel.

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-This old wheel was worked hard.

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-Do you remember water flowing here?

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-Do you remember water flowing here?

-

-Yes, I remember it well.

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-We'd go up there, to the floodgate

-at the top of the field...

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-..to open the floodgate...

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-..and release water

-for the waterwheel.

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-When the work was done,

-we'd close the floodgate.

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-Was that your job?

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-Was that your job?

-

-No, very rarely.

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-I was very young then.

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-Were you allowed inside the mill?

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-Were you allowed inside the mill?

-

-No, and the old rope is still there.

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-I wasn't allowed to go any further

-than that rope.

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-I'd hold that rope and stick to

-the health and safety rules!

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-There was a strap running

-across there with the wheel...

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-..and my father was afraid I'd get

-hurt, so I wasn't allowed in there.

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-Old mills like this one are

-part of the history of rural Wales.

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-One man

-who knows a lot about them...

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-..is the artefacts collector,

-Alwyn Hughes.

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-At one time, craftsmen called

-mill carpenters would go around...

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-..from mill to mill.

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-They were paid a daily rate

-by the miller to peck the stone.

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-It was known as pecking the stone.

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-It involved recutting the furrows

-in the stone itself.

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-Were these tools used for that task?

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-Were these tools used for that task?

-

-Yes.

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-This was the main tool - a chisel

-which was used to peck the stone.

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-A chisel slotted

-into a staff, like this.

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-It was detachable.

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-The chisel wouldn't last long

-because the stone was so hard.

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-Pieces of the chisel came away,

-as has happened here.

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-As they pecked at the stones, the

-shards of iron from the chisel...

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-..would fly off

-and become embedded in their flesh.

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-That's the root of the saying

-'show the mettle'.

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-It showed that person

-was accustomed to hard work.

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-How were millers paid?

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-How were millers paid?

-

-They were paid in grain or in flour.

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-They may have been paid in meat.

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-Very little money changed hands.

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-How did they measure someone's wage?

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-They used

-the old measure of the peck.

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-There was mention of the peck

-in The Laws Of Hywel.

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-This is a peck,

-which came from Cwm Cewydd mill.

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-They filled the peck with grain

-until it was level.

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-Traditionally, they used a trick

-when they did this.

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-They'd kick the peck

-to allow the grain to settle...

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-..then they'd drag a piece of wood

-across the top...

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-..to make sure

-the measure was correct.

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-Some Trewern Ganol field names

-reveal things about social history.

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-Yes, and Cae'r Felin

-is a fine example of it.

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-We know from the history

-of the house and the mill...

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-..that a nobleman's family

-lived here for centuries.

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-They had their own mill, of course.

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-And then, in 1600,

-the land and the mill were sold...

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-..to Sir Thomas Myddleton

-from the Chirk estate.

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-From that point onwards,

-we know the mill was rented out.

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-That fact is revealed

-in a rent book dating back to 1623.

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-The mice which got to it

-didn't manage to delete the records!

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-There are also some interesting

-social developments afoot.

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-The sons of these families

-were sent to Cambridge and Oxford...

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-..to receive an education

-and to become lawyers or clerics.

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-Back home,

-craftsmen came into their own.

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-People such as the mill carpenters

-and the blacksmiths.

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-Their skills were in great demand...

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-..which meant they could

-earn a living from their work...

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-..for the first time.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

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-An old Russian proverb says...

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-..living life

-is not like crossing a field.

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-I disagree!

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-The fields in Trewern Ganol are full

-of life and fascinating stories.

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-One of our themes here in Trewern

-is the roads which cross this land.

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-Is this field's name

-linked to a road?

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-Yes, as are many of them.

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-We're now standing in a field

-which is called Maes Y Sarn.

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-Maes means an open field

-with no hedges...

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-..so imagine a small road

-cutting through this open field.

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-Sarn refers to a major road,

-not a back road.

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-It was an important road.

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-This may not look like a main road

-as we think of them today...

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-..but it was extremely important

-at one time...

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-..particularly for the drovers.

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-They used this road to come from the

-market in Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant...

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-..past this open field...

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-..and across River Iwrch over

-what we now know as Trewern Bridge.

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-According to a document

-from the Chirk estate, dated 1600...

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-..this bridge had a different name.

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-It was referred to as Pont Rhyd

-Y Porthmyn - Drovers' Ford Bridge.

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-It seems there was a ford here

-for the drovers...

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-..long before the bridge was built.

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-Is there more evidence

-of the drovers' presence?

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-Yes, a nearby field which is called

-Wern Fach Hir today...

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-..but which was called

-Wern Y Syllte - Shillings Alder.

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-I think that's a reference

-to the fact...

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-..that drovers rested

-their cattle there overnight.

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-Their cattle was safe there...

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-..and they paid a shilling or two

-to use the land.

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-There are similar fields in Wales...

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-..which were used

-for this exact purpose.

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-Fields which are near the road

-and convenient for drovers...

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-..had names like Cae Dwy Geiniog -

-Tuppence Field...

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-..or Cae Dimau - Ha'penny Field.

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-This was an expensive field!

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-Our digital map shows us the roads

-and the Trewern Ganol land.

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-Maes Y Sarn lies between

-the farmhouse and the road...

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-..which drovers used to travel east.

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-River Iwrch is here...

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-..as is Rhyd Y Porthmyn -

-Drovers' Ford...

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-..which is now

-known as Trewern Bridge.

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-Cae'r Felin - Mill Field

-is next to Wern Coed - Alder Wood...

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-..which is next to

-another vital road.

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-This road, from the direction

-of Llanrhaeadr...

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-..splits the land

-of Trewern Ganol in two...

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-..and it crosses the Iwrch

-towards the Ceiriog Valley.

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-Rhian has unearthed the old name

-for Pont Cefn Hir...

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-..namely Pont Llyvorion -

-Torrent Bridge.

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-The third important road

-is on the farm's northern border...

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-..beyond Cae Boncin.

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-This road joins Ffordd Gam Elen,

-which stems from the Bronze Age...

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-..and leads to the Berwyn Mountain.

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-The roads give the fields

-of Trewern Ganol their shape...

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-..carrying stories with them.

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-The drovers' work was essential

-to our rural economy.

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-Historian Iorwerth Davies sheds some

-light on their fascinating lives.

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-Paint a picture for me

-of the life of a drover.

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-First, try to work out how far

-they'd be able to walk in a day.

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-The maximum they'd be able to walk

-in a day would be 15 to 20 miles.

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-Just imagine, if they were

-driving their animals...

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-..all the way

-to south-east London...

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-..it took a long time to get there.

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-They needed places to stay.

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-They usually stayed in pubs

-and they met other people there...

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-..and they had a bit of fun.

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-Some of them were a bit shameless

-on their way to London.

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-What do you mean?

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-They met some women

-of dubious character.

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-But, in addition to driving animals,

-they also carried things like money.

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-There are lots of stories about

-drovers carrying butter and eggs...

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-..to the smaller markets.

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-They went as far as Billericay...

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-..and the animals were exported

-from there to the continent.

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-They met French people

-in Billericay...

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-..and that's where

-they saw the latest fashions...

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-..from the continent.

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-They also went to pubs

-and they heard songs.

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-Drovers would sing songs,

-then bring them back to Wales.

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-Some of those melodies

-were used as hymn tunes.

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-It sounds like a romantic life.

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-It may sound romantic

-but it was a hard life.

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-They had to drive cattle

-in all weather...

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-..overcoming

-all sorts of difficulties.

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-If I found us a horse each,

-you wouldn't take the job?

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-Well, I'd like to ride a horse

-to the south-east...

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-..time permitting!

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-We'd sing along the way.

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-We'd sing along the way.

-

-Yes, I'm sure we'd have fun.

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-I meet Tom again...

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-..in a field marked as Cae Ysgubor -

-Barn Field - on the Tithe maps...

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-..but which has

-a different name today.

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-It's quite a walk

-to the highest land on your farm.

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-Yes, and it's a lot easier

-on a quad bike!

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-Yes - this is the highest part

-of the farm.

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-There were some buildings here.

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-You can see the remains of a barn

-and there was probably a house here.

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-As far as we're concerned,

-this field is called Trewern Uchaf.

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-That's the name you use today?

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-That's the name you use today?

-

-Yes, and for generations.

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-You won't find Trewern Uchaf

-on the Tithe maps...

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-..or on the documents

-relating to the sale in 1858...

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-..when my family moved here.

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-That was Cae Ysgubor.

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-Did people live here?

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-Did people live here?

-

-Yes, it's very likely.

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-My grandfather found a reference

-to it in the church records...

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-..at Llanarmon Fach,

-which is half way up that hill.

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-It says someone lived here

-in the 18th century.

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-The remains

-are of substantial buildings.

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-Yes, there was a barn here

-to store crops...

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-..which they harvested

-from the fields around us here.

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-They harvested crops

-and stored them in this barn...

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-..to save having to carry it all

-down to Trewern...

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-..and back up again

-to feed the stock.

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-Field names keep evolving.

-It's a slow process.

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-Let's go back to our expert,

-Alwyn Hughes...

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-..to learn about the use made of

-a wild plant growing in a wet field.

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-The alder tree which grows here

-in Trewern loves wet land...

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-..as do these rushes.

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-This field is called Cae Wern Mawr.

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-Rushes were very useful plants.

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-Yes. Rushes were very important,

-until around 60 years ago.

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-Rushes were the main way

-for people to light their homes...

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-..using what's known as rushlights.

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-Rushes had to be harvested,

-like every other crop.

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-The rush harvest happened

-around the end of September.

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-The rushes were then cut to lengths

-similar to this.

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-They would then

-peel off the rind of each stalk...

0:21:040:21:09

-..until they were left with

-just one thin strip of it.

0:21:120:21:16

-That's where this pan came into it -

-the grisset pan.

0:21:170:21:22

-In this, they'd put mutton fat.

0:21:230:21:27

-They put the grisset pan

-on the fire, the fat would melt...

0:21:280:21:32

-..and the rushes

-were placed in there.

0:21:320:21:35

-The pith of a rush

-is like a sponge...

0:21:350:21:38

-..and it absorbed the fat.

0:21:390:21:41

-The rushes were then dried.

0:21:410:21:43

-You placed a rushlight

-in a holder, like this...

0:21:430:21:48

-..you lit one end of it

-and burned it.

0:21:510:21:53

-Imagine people reading their Bible

-and making lace by rushlight.

0:21:550:22:00

-We still use an old saying

-that started with the rushlight.

0:22:010:22:05

-Yes, as the rushlight burned,

-they moved the rush in the holder...

0:22:060:22:11

-..until there was little left.

0:22:110:22:14

-That's when they'd light

-the other end of the rushlight...

0:22:140:22:18

-..thus burning the candle

-at both ends.

0:22:180:22:21

-Centuries back,

-we'd be harvesting rushes.

0:22:210:22:24

-Yes, that's what we'd be doing now,

-in late September.

0:22:250:22:29

-Thank goodness for electricity!

0:22:290:22:30

-Thank goodness for electricity!

-

-Really?

0:22:300:22:31

-What do these fields mean to you?

0:22:460:22:48

-We're part of the land, as farmers.

0:22:510:22:54

-We're the guardians of this land,

-and have been for centuries.

0:22:550:23:00

-As Ceiriog said...

0:23:020:23:04

-"New shepherds on these

-old mountains there may be

0:23:050:23:08

-"But the old language is in the soil

-and the old melodies are alive."

0:23:090:23:13

-People come and go,

-but these old fields remain.

0:23:140:23:18

-I hope there will be people here

-after us to take care of this land.

0:23:180:23:23

-S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones

0:23:560:23:58

-.

0:23:580:23:58

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