...y Meirw, Mecsico Gwyl


...y Meirw, Mecsico

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-Festivals. Lively celebrations.

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-A feast of colours,

-sounds and delicious foods...

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-..to celebrate

-the key moments of life.

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-Birth, death and marriage.

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-In this episode,

-I'll visit southern Mexico...

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-..to witness remarkable celebrations

-that are transforming the country.

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-The Dia de los Muertos festival -

-the Day of the Dead.

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-A three-day event

-when the living and the departed...

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-..join together to celebrate wildly

-and challenge death.

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-For many, death is the final taboo.

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-But here in Mexico,

-death is a very familiar spectre.

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-Every year, hundreds

-of lively parties are held...

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-..where people dance alongside

-skeletons and scary skulls.

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-But the focus of the festival...

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-..is to welcome back

-loved ones who have died.

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-Each year, on All Saints' Day

-and All Souls' Day...

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-..the deceased join the living...

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-..and are indulged

-with personal gifts.

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-The people of Mexico

-believe the souls of the dead...

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-..return for a short time.

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-It's a belief that dates back

-to an age-old Mexican custom.

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-Over the coming days,

-I'll witness the relationship...

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-..between the living and the dead.

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-Oaxaca

-is a city in southeast Mexico...

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-..roughly the same size as Swansea.

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-At the end of October,

-it hosts lively celebrations...

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-..to celebrate the Day of the Dead.

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-Visitors

-from four corners of the world...

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-..come to watch the fun.

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-The spectacle is rooted in a local

-tradition spanning five centuries...

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-..when the death rituals

-of Mexican Indians...

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-..were fused with

-the Christian All Saints' festival.

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-The three-day festival,

-from 31 October...

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-..to 2 November,

-is Mexico's most renowned festival.

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-Oaxaca's

-civic authorities work hard...

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-..to promote the festival.

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-A lengthy programme of events

-has been organised.

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-Concerts, along with

-altar-making and art competitions...

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-..take over the cemeteries

-and public squares.

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-During preparations...

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-..people buy decorations

-to adorn their homes.

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-Skulls and skeletons,

-which can look rather scary...

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-..and comical, as well as

-the occasional Halloween trinket.

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-American influences

-are never far away.

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-Wherever you look, there's death.

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-Not in

-a threatening or macabre way...

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-..but in a lively and colourful way.

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-It's as if people play with death

-like a child plays with a toy.

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-There are sugar skulls...

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-..reminding us

-that life and death is sweet.

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-Fancy-dress skeletons...

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-..reminding us that death touches

-us all, even the most affluent.

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-I have to admit,

-it feels very foreign to me.

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-It's something I'm not completely

-comfortable with at the moment.

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-In the Mercado de Abastos...

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-..Mexico's

-largest open-air market...

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-..it's nice to

-see more familiar produce on offer.

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-These colourful flowers...

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-..are said to help spirits

-find their way home.

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-I love fresh flowers at home...

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-..but I've never bought flowers

-to attract a spirit before.

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-They smell lovely but there's

-a first time for everything.

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-Tonnes of traditional foods

-are also on sale.

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-These chocolate beans

-are used with chillies...

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-..to create a distinctive sauce

-called mole negro.

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-This region's mole negro

-is the best in Mexico, so they say.

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-One of the festival's unique

-sights are the sand tapestries.

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-Here, schools and colleges

-create tapestries...

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-..in one of

-the city's public squares.

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-These giant skulls

-and other depictions of death...

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-..are typical of the images

-synonymous with the festival.

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-Wandering the streets,

-it's easy to lose oneself...

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-..in the colourful preparations.

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-A unique combination

-of religion and history...

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-..is firmly rooted in the festival.

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-Father Maldonado

-is a Christian priest...

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-..of Mexican Native Indian descent.

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-He's proud of the way

-indigenous customs are celebrated...

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-..to make the Day of the Dead

-a unique festival.

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-There's a strong link between

-the countries that conquered us...

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-..specifically Spain here in Mexico.

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-The Spanish missionaries didn't

-try to destroy ancient customs.

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-They took the best they had

-to offer, the positive things.

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-And without destroying the cult

-and worship they had for the dead...

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-..they emphasised the fact that

-this was linked to a higher being.

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-Father Maldonado values highly

-the ancient symbolism...

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-..preserved in the celebrations

-and relates the sand tapestries...

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-..to the lives

-of the indigenous people.

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-For example,

-why do they create with sand?

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-It's the material they have to hand

-and they give it form and life.

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-They decorate it with seasonal

-flowers such as marigolds.

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-Their golden colour

-is the colour of life.

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-The marigolds are the shape

-of the sun and are vibrant.

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-According to the Pre-Hispanic

-belief, the sun enlightens people.

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-The same is true today, but

-the light up above is God Almighty.

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-About 40 kilometres from the city

-is the site of Mitla...

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-..the ancient temple

-of the Zapotec people...

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-..who lived in this part of Mexico

-in pre-Christian times.

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-They worshipped

-the God of Death and the Underworld.

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-Apolinar Geminiano has studied

-the history of the site.

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-They have discovered...

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-..that this was the burial place....

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-..of the Zapotecs'

-high priests and kings.

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-They were buried in tombs

-in the shape of a cross.

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-They were buried with various

-items because they believed...

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-..they were on a journey

-to another life.

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-They were buried with gold,

-silver, pearls and coral...

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-..water and textiles which

-prepared them for the other world.

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-In underground chambers...

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-..the skulls and bodies

-of prominent figures were buried.

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-Mitla means the Place of the Dead.

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-I'm literally

-in amongst them all down here.

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-Reigning over them all...

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-..was Mictlantecuhtli, the

-god of death, who people worshipped.

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-Symbols and carvings of skulls

-signified his presence.

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-To placate this ferocious god...

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-..human sacrifices were offered.

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-Above is a paved square...

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-..showing where the

-ceremonial killings took place.

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-The decorative architecture

-denotes the site's importance.

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-This is the largest religious site

-in southern Mexico...

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-..before the Spanish arrived.

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-By the 16th century,

-everything changed.

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-The Spanish Conquistadores

-arrived...

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-..and one of the first things they

-did was introduce their religion.

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-They destroyed

-the original temple...

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-..and erected their own church

-in the heart of Mitla.

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-It was a concerted effort to replace

-the natives' indigenous way of life.

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-But the natives' way of life

-wasn't the only thing to change...

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-..during this turbulent time.

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-When the Spanish arrived in 1517...

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-..25 million of the indigenous

-people lived in Mexico.

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-A century later,

-the sword and European diseases...

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-..almost wiped out

-the entire population.

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-Fewer than a million survived.

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-This chilling fact partly explains

-why Mexico's inhabitants...

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-..choose to mark death

-in their own inimitable way.

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-One of the festival's customs is

-the offering of bread to the dead.

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-The Aztecs and Zapotecs mixed blood

-with flour to make sweet bread.

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-Pan de muerto por favor.

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-In the same vein, Mexicans nowadays

-prepare sweet bread for the dead...

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-..but without the blood!

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-The arrival

-of Christianity changed things.

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-As well as laying bread

-on the graves of relations...

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-..people buy pan de muerto

-to eat and enjoy.

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-It's just like brioche.

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-Muchas gracias.

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-As well as the pan de muerto,

-the mole negro...

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-..is another integral food.

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-This thick

-chilli and chocolate sauce...

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-..is a symbol of past bloodshed.

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-As Apolinar Geminiano explained...

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-..only one of the ingredients binds

-contemporary life in Oaxaca...

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-..with the customs

-of the original Mexican people.

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-Regarding the pre-Hispanic era,

-we continue offerings of mole...

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-..flowers and drinks

-like mescal and chocolate.

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-Pre-Hispanic offerings

-are still used on altars.

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-We're uniting the rituals of the

-ancient natives with those of Spain.

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-Across the city

-and the entire state...

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-..these unique offerings are being

-prepared for a giant celebration.

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-Around a million

-of Oaxaca's residents...

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-..will take part in the festivities.

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-With so many households

-preparing mole...

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-..there's a strong aroma

-of chocolate in the air!

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-.

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-For three days each year...

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-..on the eve of

-All Saints' and All Souls' Day...

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-..the people of Mexico

-remember loved ones who have died.

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-Many believe their souls

-escape the clutches of death...

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-..to return to life for the Dia

-de los Muertos, the Day of the Dead.

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-It's a cause for celebration

-throughout the country and beyond.

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-October 31st, the eve of All Saints,

-commonly known as Halloween.

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-People are busy decorating graves

-in Oaxaca's largest cemetery.

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-Buenos dias.

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-One thing I've noticed is the number

-of children at the cemetery.

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-They're happy to be here too.

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-It shows you

-how open people are about death...

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-..and regard it as merely

-the next step in the life cycle.

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-Here in the Panteon General...

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-..many civic activities

-have begun too.

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-Keeping watch over proceedings

-is Miguel Angel.

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-It's his duty to prepare

-the ofrendas competition...

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-..the decoration of colourful altars

-in homes and public places...

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-..to attract spirits.

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-We have eight contestants.

-It'll be very competitive.

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-It gets better every year,

-with new elements introduced...

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-..while also retaining

-the old tradition of the altars.

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-Miguel also places candles

-in the nichos...

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-..alcoves in the wall

-surrounding the cemetery...

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-..where thousands are buried.

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-At four o'clock

-we start lighting the candles.

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-There are 2,440 nichos

-and we place a candle in each one.

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-People are preparing to welcome

-the spirits of their loved ones.

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-Washing headstones and decorating

-is the practical element.

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-While that's going on,

-something deeper happens too.

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-In one area...

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-..a widow has asked a musician

-to sing at her husband's grave.

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-SINGS IN SPANISH

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-That was unexpected.

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-I didn't expect him to sing and

-comfort the widow with his music.

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-Everyone was listening intently.

-The cemetery was silent.

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-It was a very peaceful moment.

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-Now I've had a taste of preparations

-in the city...

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-..I'm keen to see

-their preparations in the country.

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-They say it's more family orientated

-and parochial there.

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-All the community

-comes together to celebrate.

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-I'm looking forward to it.

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-I'm on my way to Soledad de Etla,

-a small town...

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-..20km from Oaxaca.

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-Residents here are renowned

-for their exuberant celebrations.

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-The streets might be quiet now...

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-..but the town

-will be packed tomorrow...

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-..as some of south Mexico's most

-colourful celebrations take over.

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-Before venturing outside, people

-will celebrate first at home...

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-..around altars that are purposely

-decorated to attract spirits.

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-At the home of one of the town's

-oldest families is Lorena...

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-..a local doctor, and her daughter,

-who are preparing ofrendas.

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-Mexicans all over the world

-dedicate a corner of their home...

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-..to this colourful ritual.

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-We make an offering to the dead,

-things they like most...

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-..since this is the only time

-they can come to visit us.

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-We still remember them, so we offer

-mescal, mole and sweet pumpkin.

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-Everything they liked

-is what means most to us too.

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-This year, additional offerings

-are made on the ofrenda.

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-Lorena's mother-in-law

-died a year and a half ago.

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-Her soul will return to the home

-for the first time.

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-The first year they die,

-they don't come to visit us.

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-My mother-in-law died in April,

-so she didn't visit in November.

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-This year, she'll return along with

-the others who've been dead longer.

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-The festival

-brings back happy memories...

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-..and stirs up emotions.

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-Lorena doesn't claim to be able

-to contact the spirits who return.

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-I can't feel their presence, no,

-only happiness in my heart.

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-I've never heard a noise or a door

-slamming that tells me they're here.

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-I feel them in my heart. It's

-more sentimental than physical.

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-Miranda noticed

-that the glass of mescal...

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-..the potent local alcohol

-isn't quite as full as it was...

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-..which suggests

-the spirits have returned.

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-SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

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-Since we've been here...

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-..some of the mescal has gone.

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-Miranda believes

-the spirits are here...

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-..drinking the mescal.

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-It's probably the two grandfathers!

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-It's strong too.

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-They're enjoying themselves!

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-Miranda's father Pipino

-has farmland near the town.

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-He must get things in order

-before the celebrations begin.

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-Although he has to work while

-the rest of the family prepares...

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-..he regards himself lucky to

-live in such a beautiful setting...

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-..and a close-knit community.

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-We're all friendly

-because we know each other.

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-We're always ready

-to help anyone in need.

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-We're expected to be friendly. Our

-culture has always dictated that.

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-As well as the closeness...

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-..Pipino's proud

-of his community's celebrations.

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-A ritual that has emanated from

-this very town, according to him.

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-The tradition originates from

-this community in Soledad de Etla.

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-Because the response

-is so enthusiastic...

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-..celebrations have grown in this

-community and in neighbouring towns.

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-Back in Oaxaca,

-Miguel and a group of volunteers...

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-..are placing the thousands

-of candles to light the nichos.

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-The ofrendas competition

-is hotting up.

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-The altar is dedicated to peace.

-What does reconciliation mean?

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-That conflict has now been resolved.

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-That everything that was avoided

-is now acknowledged.

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-The traditional candles

-of Teotitlan del Valle...

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-..and skeletons

-playing wind instruments...

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-..represent a typical Oaxacan band.

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-The altars that respect tradition

-and show creativity...

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-..will win over the judges.

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-We're proud to be participating

-and preserving tradition.

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-Because the customs

-are slowly disappearing....

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-..our parents and ancestors

-are urging us to keep them alive.

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-Later, a more sombre feel

-spreads through the cemetery...

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-..as people prepare to welcome

-the souls of the angelitos...

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-..the children who have died.

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-The death of a child

-is the hardest thing...

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-..for any parent to bear.

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-Seeing this grave

-is heart-breaking...

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-..with the sweets and toys.

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-But it's also lovely because

-this festival is an opportunity...

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-..for the family

-to be reunited with the child...

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-..almost 40 years later.

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-Here,

-a woman decorates a family grave.

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-Buried alongside many relations

-is a baby.

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-She will decorate the altar

-to remember her niece...

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-..who died from pneumonia

-at only 40 days old.

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-We celebrate

-and remember the angelitos...

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-..by bringing

-small tokens to the cemetery.

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-A little pan de muerto, flowers and

-tiny skulls to remember their souls.

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-I've brought her small flowers.

-She's buried on this side.

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-Her father's in the middle.

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-Later, her mother will bring photos,

-candles and small breads.

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-Decorating graves and placing

-ofrendas are two important customs.

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-But the tradition which brings

-colour, and certainly noise...

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-..to the celebrations

-is the muerteada processions.

0:23:320:23:36

-In Soledad de Etla,

-a special muerteada takes place...

0:23:400:23:44

-..to remember the angelitos.

0:23:440:23:47

-The young celebrate the belief...

0:23:480:23:51

-..that the souls of children

-are visiting the town once again.

0:23:510:23:56

-The purpose of the muerteada

-is to give those souls a chance...

0:23:570:24:01

-..to dance and enjoy

-the only opportunity...

0:24:010:24:04

-..to be back amongst the living.

0:24:040:24:07

-Muerteada literally means

-dance of the dead.

0:24:070:24:10

-Pipino and Lorena's eldest daughter

-Gabriella is here with her son...

0:24:140:24:19

-..who has dressed up

-like the others.

0:24:200:24:22

-But the cartoon character

-and witches' outfits...

0:24:260:24:30

-..are as prominent

-as the more traditional ones.

0:24:300:24:33

-As the children

-catch the sweets that are thrown...

0:24:340:24:37

-..Halloween customs

-are an growing influence.

0:24:370:24:40

-Halloween

-is relatively new to Mexico.

0:24:410:24:44

-It hails from Europe and America,

-of course...

0:24:440:24:47

-..but certain elements...

0:24:470:24:50

-..have successfully integrated

-with the Day of the Dead.

0:24:500:24:54

-We've seen a few witches,

-a few film characters and Dracula...

0:24:540:24:58

-..but Halloween hasn't taken over.

0:24:590:25:01

-It's nightfall

-at the Panteon General.

0:25:080:25:12

-The thousands of candles along the

-wall create a magical atmosphere.

0:25:120:25:17

-Around the cemetery...

0:25:190:25:21

-..Miguel and his volunteers

-create a pathway...

0:25:210:25:24

-..to guide people

-to a performance of Faure's Requiem.

0:25:250:25:28

-This is the time of day when

-the souls of the angelitos return.

0:25:290:25:33

-It's a special moment for Miguel.

0:25:330:25:36

-The Panteon is lit and ready to

-receive the souls of the children.

0:25:370:25:44

-Our children

-who have been lost on the way...

0:25:450:25:48

-..and we have prepared the way

-to guide them back to their homes.

0:25:480:25:52

-We put these candles here

-to welcome them.

0:25:520:25:55

-CHOIR SINGS IN LATIN

0:25:560:25:58

-The haunting sounds of

-the requiem mass silences everyone.

0:26:210:26:26

-More families arrive to spend time

-at their children's gravesides.

0:26:280:26:32

-This is one of the festival's

-most tender moments.

0:26:320:26:36

-There's a magical atmosphere

-here tonight.

0:26:410:26:45

-Tomorrow there'll be

-a big, noisy party...

0:26:450:26:49

-..but now

-only two things are important.

0:26:490:26:52

-The preparations

-before their welcome return...

0:26:530:26:56

-..and remembering the angelitos.

0:26:560:26:59

-CHOIR SINGS IN LATIN

0:27:010:27:04

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0:27:250:27:25

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0:27:300:27:32

-The first of November.

0:27:410:27:43

-All Saints' Day.

0:27:440:27:46

-Today is a day of feasting, as

-important to the people of Mexico...

0:27:460:27:52

-..as Christmas Day is to us.

0:27:520:27:55

-It'll be

-a day of major celebrations...

0:27:550:27:59

-..but first the food must be

-prepared - chicken in this case.

0:27:590:28:04

-Lorena and Gabriella are preparing

-enough for 12 relatives...

0:28:040:28:08

-..who are joining them.

0:28:090:28:11

-The fire has been lit

-in time to make mole negro.

0:28:160:28:19

-The Day of the Dead wouldn't be

-complete without this special sauce.

0:28:200:28:24

-There's enough for everyone...

0:28:250:28:27

-..including

-the most important guests of all...

0:28:270:28:30

-..who will be here in spirit!

0:28:310:28:33

-After getting changed, Lorena

-gives the mole one final stir...

0:28:370:28:41

-..and reveals

-the secret ingredients.

0:28:410:28:44

-I grind different sorts of chilli -

-guajillo, mora.

0:28:450:28:51

-I flavour it with banana, bread,

-almond, cinnamon and pepper.

0:28:510:28:58

-We roast the chillies

-and add fried bananas and apples...

0:28:580:29:05

-..and we grind them into a paste.

0:29:050:29:11

-And that's the mole!

0:29:110:29:13

-The souls are first to eat.

0:29:160:29:19

-And the contented souls are happy

-to share a bottle of mescal...

0:29:200:29:24

-..while they're waiting!

0:29:250:29:27

-During the festival,

-we traditionally serve mole...

0:29:270:29:30

-..because it's what they liked most.

0:29:300:29:33

-That's why

-it's placed on the altar.

0:29:330:29:35

-This is where the souls come

-to take the essence of the food.

0:29:370:29:42

-This is the food they eat

-on the day of the festival.

0:29:430:29:45

-This is food and delicacies

-for the souls only.

0:29:460:29:49

-The family mustn't eat anything from

-the altar for the next two days.

0:29:490:29:54

-Once the festival's over,

-they can eat whatever they like.

0:29:540:29:58

-According to some, the food

-loses some of its flavour...

0:29:590:30:03

-..since the souls

-have taken away the nourishment.

0:30:030:30:07

-But the food for the guests...

0:30:130:30:15

-..is tasty enough.

0:30:160:30:18

-Lorena's brother and sister have

-travelled five hours to get here.

0:30:180:30:23

-As well as the chicken and mole,

-they eat special tortillas...

0:30:230:30:27

-..made with black maize flour.

0:30:270:30:31

-The colour of death.

0:30:310:30:33

-It's not a formal meal and there's

-plenty of coming and going.

0:30:350:30:39

-But soon the feast will be over.

0:30:390:30:41

-A procession is nearing

-Lorena and Pipino's home.

0:30:440:30:48

-When the muerteada arrives,

-the place goes wild.

0:30:490:30:52

-It's a carnival for ghouls,

-and there's no escaping the noise...

0:31:130:31:17

-..or the dancing.

0:31:170:31:19

-Lorena, who moved here

-to live after getting married...

0:31:280:31:32

-..loves Soledad's scary carnival.

0:31:320:31:35

-I used to live elsewhere...

0:31:350:31:37

-..but when I came here,

-I was surprised to see the costumes.

0:31:370:31:41

-They're beautiful

-and they're handcrafted.

0:31:410:31:44

-They're not your average costumes.

-They're crafted from foam.

0:31:440:31:50

-The music surprised me too.

0:31:520:31:54

-They go from house to house

-before moving to the church.

0:31:550:31:59

-The muerteada

-began at the cemetery...

0:32:010:32:04

-..to give souls time to

-possess those in the procession...

0:32:040:32:08

-..and join in the fun.

0:32:080:32:10

-It's not only people

-who are behind these scary masks.

0:32:100:32:15

-As well as the singing and dancing,

-there are readings too.

0:32:150:32:19

-David remained quite sad.

-The time came to repent.

0:32:190:32:25

-'Am I guilty of being kind to the

-attractive one who came to my door?'

0:32:250:32:30

-And now he sits pensively.

0:32:300:32:33

-As you'd expect, only

-tongue-in-cheek poems play a part.

0:32:330:32:39

-The poet recites calaveritas...

0:32:390:32:43

-..which means little skulls, and he

-makes fun of death, and pokes fun...

0:32:430:32:47

-..at local dignitaries.

0:32:470:32:49

-Here's the song,

-'No Pasa Nada.'(Nothing Happens)

0:32:490:32:53

-As the musicians step forward,

-Pipino pays the band...

0:32:560:33:01

-..and wishes the muerteada well...

0:33:010:33:04

-..because

-they're only just beginning.

0:33:040:33:07

-They'll be performing

-for the next 20 hours.

0:33:080:33:11

-That's a challenge, even

-for an extreme runner like myself!

0:33:120:33:15

-This is only one

-of about six bands...

0:33:300:33:33

-..who march through Soledad.

0:33:330:33:35

-As the afternoon wears on...

0:33:380:33:40

-..hundreds more

-will come to join them.

0:33:400:33:43

-By nightfall, there'll be

-no room to move on the streets.

0:33:430:33:47

-In Oaxaca, the noise

-and the dancing begins later.

0:34:000:34:04

-The party's in full swing here too.

0:34:040:34:07

-The celebrations

-are more scattered...

0:34:070:34:10

-..and it's the young people

-who are the most enthusiastic.

0:34:100:34:14

-But there are some who believe

-it's better to stay away.

0:34:140:34:18

-Evangelical churches are growing in

-popularity across Latin America...

0:34:190:34:24

-..partly due to American influence.

0:34:240:34:27

-They believe these ancient customs

-are born out of superstition.

0:34:270:34:33

-They're also against

-the nature of the celebrating.

0:34:330:34:36

-Having been ordained as a priest

-into the Catholic Church...

0:34:370:34:41

-..Marco Zavaleta turned to

-the Evangelical Church.

0:34:410:34:45

-He believes

-that it's the Bible's teachings...

0:34:450:34:49

-..which guide people to God,

-not customs and traditions.

0:34:490:34:54

-The Evangelical Church

-respects these rituals.

0:34:540:35:00

-The traditions and the culture

-are really beautiful...

0:35:010:35:06

-..but they don't lead us to God.

0:35:060:35:12

-That's why we, through God's word...

0:35:130:35:19

-..and being respectful

-of culture and traditions...

0:35:190:35:24

-..are trying

-to help people realize...

0:35:240:35:28

-..it's best

-not to join in these festivities.

0:35:280:35:33

-For us, church services continue

-as normal during this time.

0:35:330:35:38

-We emphasize

-that with our way of life...

0:35:380:35:45

-..it's possible for people to live

-happily without these traditions.

0:35:450:35:50

-It'd be an almighty task...

0:35:500:35:53

-..to persuade the people of Soledad

-de Etla to give up their carnival.

0:35:540:35:58

-The festivities are an important

-part of the town's religion.

0:35:580:36:04

-The muerteada processions come to

-the Virgin of Solitude Church....

0:36:040:36:09

-..to be blessed.

0:36:090:36:11

-The church is open all night

-for people who wish to pray...

0:36:110:36:16

-..or to remember their loved ones.

0:36:160:36:18

-There's a religious depth to

-the rituals that happen inside...

0:36:200:36:24

-..and outside the church.

0:36:250:36:27

-It's this strange contrast

-between noise and silence...

0:36:270:36:30

-..which makes

-Dia de los Muertos so interesting.

0:36:310:36:33

-In our society, these two ways

-of celebrating are kept apart.

0:36:340:36:39

-Look after our fragile lives.

0:36:390:36:42

-Before moving on,

-one of the muerteada's leaders...

0:36:430:36:47

-..asks for the living

-and the dead to be blessed.

0:36:470:36:50

-We ask for your blessing.

0:36:500:36:53

-Although Etla is the home of the

-muerteada in this part of Mexico...

0:36:540:36:59

-..three's plenty of exuberance

-on the streets of Oaxaca too.

0:37:000:37:04

-I have to admit,

-the atmosphere is electric here.

0:37:070:37:11

-Even in Oaxaca, it's a wonderful way

-of bringing the community together.

0:37:110:37:16

-Thank you!

0:37:160:37:18

-After leading a procession

-through the city...

0:37:190:37:23

-..some of the muerteadas

-head to the Panteon General.

0:37:230:37:27

-Some families spend time

-at their relatives' gravesides.

0:37:290:37:35

-Last night it was the angelitos

-who were remembered.

0:37:380:37:41

-Tonight's focus is on other

-loved ones who are buried here.

0:37:420:37:46

-This is the family

-of a 14-year-old child...

0:37:460:37:51

-..who died 15 years ago.

0:37:510:37:53

-At another grave, friends of a

-cafe owner drink beer and tequila...

0:37:590:38:04

-..to remember him.

0:38:040:38:06

-..to remember him.

-

-Salud!

0:38:060:38:08

-What strikes you most,

-whether you believe it or not...

0:38:200:38:25

-..is the enjoyment and fun

-people have from being here.

0:38:250:38:29

-Miguel Angel is still on duty.

0:38:390:38:42

-The cemetery

-will have to close before midnight.

0:38:420:38:46

-This isn't one of the cemeteries

-which opens all night.

0:38:470:38:50

-Those cemeteries are in small towns

-such as Xoxo and Etla.

0:38:510:38:58

-Here, people can stay here

-until 11 o'clock.

0:38:580:39:02

-They'll have to leave after that...

0:39:020:39:07

-..because

-many of the tombs are ancient.

0:39:070:39:12

-Later, I'll check to see

-if any damage has been caused.

0:39:130:39:18

-If there's a problem,

-I'll try my best to fix it.

0:39:180:39:23

-If a candle has blown out,

-I'll replace it.

0:39:230:39:27

-We'll keep an eye

-on minor details like that...

0:39:270:39:32

-..and make sure

-people enjoy the spectacle.

0:39:330:39:36

-But there's no restricting the fun

-in Soledad de Etla.

0:39:370:39:42

-This is the only place to be

-if you want to party all night.

0:39:420:39:46

-The crowd swells

-as people arrive from Oaxaca...

0:39:470:39:50

-..and neighbouring towns to be part

-of southern Mexico's best party.

0:39:510:39:56

-It's been a feast

-for the eyes and ears.

0:39:560:39:59

-Earlier the muerteadas

-marched through Soledad...

0:39:590:40:03

-..but now they've gathered together

-for an onslaught of music.

0:40:030:40:08

-It's been so noisy,

-I can't hear myself think!

0:40:080:40:12

-But it's been incredible.

0:40:120:40:14

-Crikey,

-these people know how to party!

0:40:150:40:18

-The costumes are testament to that

-- beasts, ghosts...

0:40:200:40:24

-..and exotic creatures of all kinds.

0:40:240:40:28

-The celebrations are never-ending.

0:40:310:40:33

-The dancing, feasting and drinking

-will continue all night.

0:40:340:40:38

-But it's all a bit too much

-for some.

0:40:380:40:41

-They must rest before the next

-phase of the Dia de los Muertos.

0:40:410:40:47

-.

0:40:500:40:51

-Subtitles

0:40:550:40:55

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

0:40:550:40:57

-The following day after the party...

0:41:030:41:06

-..and the celebrations

-of Dia de los Muertos...

0:41:070:41:12

-..have died down a little.

0:41:120:41:14

-But in Soledad de Etla...

0:41:180:41:20

-..the processions continue.

0:41:200:41:22

-Everyone who can still walk make

-their way to the town's cemetery...

0:41:250:41:30

-..for the final valuable hours

-of the Day of the Dead.

0:41:300:41:34

-Here at the colourful graves,

-people are tidying and decorating.

0:41:360:41:41

-They're seizing

-these rare silent moments...

0:41:410:41:45

-..before saying goodbye to their

-loved ones' souls for another year.

0:41:450:41:50

-But the followers

-of the muerteadas...

0:41:510:41:53

-..are keen to maintain the defiant

-nature of the celebrations.

0:41:540:41:57

-At the cemetery gate, two bands

-are competing against each other.

0:41:580:42:03

-There's a danger

-the noisy outburst...

0:42:040:42:07

-..will turn into a physical

-outburst, which has happened before.

0:42:070:42:12

-But the police

-are here to keep an eye on things.

0:42:150:42:18

-Pipino's family pay special

-attention to his mother's grave.

0:42:200:42:24

-They believe her soul

-is here for the first time...

0:42:250:42:29

-..since she died a year earlier.

0:42:290:42:31

-Through the noise of the bands,

-the memories come flooding back.

0:42:320:42:36

-Quiet contemplation about death...

0:42:380:42:41

-..while others mock death

-at the same time.

0:42:420:42:45

-It's part of the whole gamut of

-emotions during Dia de los Muertos.

0:42:450:42:50

-By lunchtime...

0:42:520:42:54

-..everyone will have gone home.

0:42:550:42:57

-In Oaxaca, quieter celebrations

-continue until nightfall.

0:43:040:43:08

-At the Panteon General...

0:43:090:43:11

-..families make the most of the

-final hours to meditate and reflect.

0:43:110:43:16

-The spiritual ambience

-has returned to All Souls Day...

0:43:160:43:20

-..for those who believe

-our loved ones are amongst us.

0:43:210:43:25

-Though it's a source of comfort

-for many people...

0:43:250:43:29

-..there's an element of sadness

-because at the end of the day...

0:43:290:43:33

-..the deceased will depart.

0:43:330:43:36

-At one graveside,

-they're serving a final supper.

0:43:370:43:41

-Alcohol and mole for the dead...

0:43:410:43:44

-..and turnip with chilli and lime

-for the living.

0:43:450:43:48

-Dia de los Muertos creates a strong

-link between European religion...

0:43:520:43:56

-..and the beliefs

-of Mexico's indigenous people.

0:43:570:44:00

-The presence of the cross

-and the skull is a clear sign...

0:44:050:44:09

-..of the way two religions have

-united to create a special festival.

0:44:090:44:14

-Back at his church, Father Maldonado

-conducts the festival's final mass.

0:44:190:44:24

-Only a small gathering

-of worshippers...

0:44:240:44:27

-..have joined him.

0:44:280:44:30

-They'll pray for the souls

-who have since departed...

0:44:300:44:34

-..and help them

-on their journey to heaven.

0:44:340:44:37

-SPEAKS SPANISH

0:44:380:44:40

-The wild celebrations

-are finally over...

0:44:460:44:49

-..and daily life is resumed.

0:44:490:44:53

-But there's still some mole left.

0:44:560:44:59

-There's one

-final civic event to enjoy.

0:44:590:45:03

-In front of a crowd of visitors

-and local people...

0:45:110:45:15

-..the city's muerteadas have come to

-be blessed at the Plaza de la Danza.

0:45:150:45:20

-Oaxaca's striking celebrations...

0:45:220:45:25

-..are coming to an end

-for another year.

0:45:260:45:28

-All the hard work

-has been worthwhile.

0:45:310:45:34

-Getting up very early and leaving

-work late has been beneficial.

0:45:340:45:40

-Everyone's happy and content,

-which gives me immense satisfaction.

0:45:430:45:49

-This three-day celebration in Mexico

-is completely unique.

0:45:520:45:56

-During Dia de los Muertos,

-people make fun of death...

0:45:590:46:03

-..while respecting the dead

-at the same time.

0:46:030:46:06

-The muerteadas bring people

-together, with scary costumes...

0:46:070:46:13

-..raucous music, mescal, tequila and

-beer providing the accompaniment!

0:46:130:46:18

-But beneath the wild surface

-is a deep sense...

0:46:200:46:24

-..of remembrance

-and a connection with friends...

0:46:240:46:28

-..and beloved relations.

0:46:280:46:30

-There's no way of escaping the pain,

-emptiness and grief...

0:46:310:46:36

-..which comes with death...

0:46:370:46:39

-..but these people

-have found a way of challenging it.

0:46:390:46:43

-Thy look death in the eyes.

0:46:430:46:46

-I've been surprised because that

-attitude lifts a person's spirits.

0:46:460:46:51

-That's what I'll remember

-of this journey.

0:46:510:46:54

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:47:270:47:29

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0:47:290:47:29

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