Yr Anialwch: Lowri Morgan: Namib Yr Anialwch

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-The desert -

-arid, desolate, uncompromising.

-A barren landscape

-that extends far and wide.

-But it is in these unfamiliar places

-that nature flourishes...

-..and inhabitants dwell.

-With vigour and resilience,

-they have learnt to survive...

-..and forged a unique way of life.

-But today the modern world

-is turning the screw.

-Trade and industry

-covet the desert's resources.

-Natives have had to adapt

-quicker than ever before.

-This is the story

-of resilient and tenacious people...

-..preserving their habitat

-and fighting for the right...

-..to live in the most

-challenging places on earth.

-My adventure begins

-in Windhoek, the capital of Namibia.

-How exciting!

-There is no desert anywhere

-in the world older than the Namib.

-For 80 million years...

-..sand dunes have stood here

-on the Atlantic coast of Africa.

-Wow!

-Thanks to my pilot's kindness and

-his expert knowledge of the Namib...

-..I'm able to view this ancient

-wilderness in a contemporary way.

-I can understand why people

-are so passionate about flying.

-My adrenaline is pumping,

-my heart is in my mouth...

-..and it's a thrill being up here -

-I've never felt more alive.

-Being above such spectacular scenery

-makes me feel quite spiritual.

-I'm grinning

-like a Cheshire cat up here!

-From one year to the next...

-..there are parts of the Namib

-that never see rain.

-The coastline is a ships' graveyard.

-The rugged landscape

-is a challenging environment...

-..in which to live...

-..despite Namibia's vast plains.

-Two million people

-live in this country...

-..compared to the

-three-million population of Wales.

-It's no wonder the unpopulated space

-is referred to as the Namib Desert.

-But having seen

-the occasional zebra...

-..you're reminded

-there is also life in the desert.

-Survival is possible

-in these extreme conditions.

-Zebras are not the only inhabitants.

-The trained eye...

-..can spot all kinds of wildlife

-in the Namib...

-..from the smallest species

-to the desert's largest mammals.

-You will also find

-people living here.

-My thirst for adventure...

-..has led me

-to all kinds of rough terrains...

-..but I always seem

-to hurtle through them.

-It will be a challenge for me

-to bide my time...

-..and observe those who must

-live self-sufficiently here.

-What of its future?

-HIV and AIDS are rife here.

-It's claimed that one

-in every four children in Namibia...

-..will be

-left destitute by the disease.

-Getting to grips with the Namib

-is going to be quite a challenge.

-I'm relieved that my journey's

-arrangements are in expert hands.

-Bertus Schoeman is the pilot.

-He and his family

-also cater for tourists on land.

-Bertus's father

-was the first to realize...

-..the desert's appeal

-as a tourist attraction.

-These are all lavas that came out

-when the continents broke apart.

-He campaigned

-for the first national park...

-..in order to preserve

-the Namib's wonders...

-..one of which

-is the archaic sand dunes.

-They rise to a height of 300m...

-..and some measure

-more than 30km in length.

-The dunes are a challenge, even for

-the most experienced driver.

-It'd be fun to see Ralio's drivers

-trying to negotiate these slopes!

-You made it. You actually made it.

-Louw Schoeman, the father of Namib's

-conservation, died many years ago.

-His son, Henk, is still here...

-..to preserve his legacy...

-..along with

-his older brother, Bertus.

-We're indebted to the Schoeman

-family because without them...

-..there wouldn't be

-a national park or conservation.

-I'm so glad that the sons are

-continuing their father's vision...

-..because without them, hundreds

-of people, ourselves included...

-..couldn't come here

-to appreciate this remarkable place.

-This is

-the culmination of their work.

-An oasis in the desert...

-..and home to some

-of Africa's most beautiful animals.

-But what about

-the people of the Namib?

-I'm heading north

-to the Purros region.

-I'm visiting a remote farm, home to

-a small number of the Himba tribe.

-It's time to introduce myself

-to the Namib's remote natives.

-Without delay, I get stuck in

-to the work of these desert women.

-The men are with the animals,

-searching for grazing pasture...

-..so the women

-are left to run the household.

-It's labour intensive

-and completely essential, of course.

-But there's still time

-to share a few treats...

-..as we take turns to pump.

-Thank you.

-Nice!

-It's remarkable watching

-these women working in tandem.

-They've worked out a system...

-..and each of them

-knows exactly what to do.

-It all seems very organized.

-Now it's time for the real test.

-Thanks! I'm going

-to get a soaking any minute now!

-Over here?

-The new recruit

-is starting to tire...

-..but there's

-no chance of a rest just yet.

-They need firewood,

-otherwise there'll be no breakfast.

-And this? Yes?

-The branches are so dry,

-they've become very sharp.

-I've already cut myself.

-They're very kind to me, fair play.

-Yes?

-There we go.

-I feel quite proud

-that I'm giving them a hand.

-We make our way back home.

-If it were a race, there'd be

-no gold medal for me today.

-I was determined to walk

-that two miles with the women.

-I'm so glad I did.

-No words were spoken between us

-but we had fun and laughed.

-I'm glad I've just done

-one small thing to help this family.

-Dankie.

-Good helper,

-good helper, good helper!

-Did she say "good helper"? I hope

-I was a useful helper, anyhow!

-It's wonderful to be accepted

-by these diligent women.

-Now there is firewood...

-..Zaharara lights the fire to make

-sweetcorn porridge for everyone.

-With everyone else

-busy with other duties...

-..I make sure

-that visitors from Wales...

-..uphold

-their good helper reputation!

-Yes?

-It's hard work,

-especially in this oppressive heat.

-OK?

-At last it's time to relax...

-..and experience more

-of the tribe's customs.

-With a scarcity of water

-in the area...

-..instead of a wet shower, these

-women are having a smoke shower.

-They burn the twigs

-of a very special tree.

-A beautiful aroma fills the cabin.

-It has a very nice smell.

-It's quite sweet.

-Having relaxed in the shower,

-it's time for make-up.

-This paste is called otjize.

-It's made from ashes,

-ochre and butter fat.

-The red colour symbolizes vitality,

-which is also true of our culture.

-The otjize keeps the skin moist...

-..and protects it from

-the damaging effects of the sun.

-Now that we all look so pretty,

-we're off to the ball!

-THEY YELL GRUFFLY

-I've only been

-with these women a short while...

-..but during that time,

-they've shown me so much kindness.

-They've looked after me and

-made me feel like one of the family.

-I'm very grateful to them for that.

-I feel very touched, to be honest.

-It's been a short time, and if I

-were completely honest with you...

-..I'd like

-to stay with them a little longer.

-But perhaps I haven't

-quite mastered the Himba style yet!

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-The healthy children

-of the Namib Desert are full of fun.

-But when disease

-strikes the inhabitants...

-..medical provision is scarce.

-As we prepare to leave

-the Himba women...

-..we hear that a mobile hospital

-has arrived in the nearest town...

-..for the very first time.

-The smallest children

-are offered transport...

-..in the clinic's vehicle.

-I needed medical attention too.

-I have a sore neck. Here.

-Here.

-Yes. Yes.

-You walk like this...

-..and I'm like this.

-In the end, everybody

-decides to visit the doctor...

-..despite the distance.

-A day like today

-is vital for the community.

-People have walked miles

-to the town.

-It is the first time ever for the

-mobile medical unit to come here.

-With diseases rife...

-..and medical treatment scarce...

-..it's important

-that these children and adults...

-..receive vital medical attention.

-The children of the desert...

-..tend to be small for their age...

-..especially when very young

-as a result of poor nutrition.

-But the Namib...

-..faces a far more sinister problem.

-One person in every three in Namibia

-carries the HIV virus.

-This epidemic

-tears lives apart in the desert.

-Good morning, class.

-All the children in this village

-are orphans.

-Their parents have died from AIDS.

-Their parents have died from AIDS.

-

-Arms.

-Hello.

-Hello.

-It's hard to believe,

-but none of these poor children...

-..has a mother or a father.

-Good, thank you very much.

-Can I teach you all

-a lesson in singing Welsh?

-Yes? Is that OK?

-Head is "pen". "Pen."

-It's called "pen" in Welsh.

-"Ysgwyddau."

-"Coesau."

-"Traed."

-OK?

-# Pen, ysgwyddau,

-coesau, traed, coesau, traed.

-# Pen, ysgwyddau,

-coesau, traed, coesau, traed

-# Pen, ysgwyddau, coesau, traed

-"Pen, ysgwyddau,

-coesau traed, coesau traed #

-Everybody come to the letter A.

-Stand here.

-A charity runs the school here and

-cares for the orphans day and night.

-Each child

-has had to overcome adversity.

-Sadly, Upo arrived here

-at two months' old...

-..following

-his parents' death from HIV.

-But look at him now.

-He's eight years old.

-Upo's story is far from unique.

-Bye-bye, class.

-Bye-bye, teacher.

-Bye-bye, teacher.

-

-Jaco Burger was inspired...

-..to establish the charity

-more than a decade ago.

-Jaco is of Afrikaans descent.

-Through his voluntary work...

-..he witnessed

-the effects of AIDS on the young.

-The disease

-was rife in many villages...

-..leaving few healthy adults

-to look after the children.

-I decided I wanted to do my

-little bit for the Himba people...

-..and the Himba community to start

-a place where children can be safe.

-Jaco works alongside wife, Mukayo.

-She is now

-the honourable Queen of the Orphans.

-A decade ago...

-..Jaco came to work in her village.

-We became good friends

-around that time.

-He then asked me to work with him...

-..for two months, to begin with.

-But two months turned into a year.

-And then a year turned into

-another year, and then another...

-..and another.

-By now it's been 10 years.

-After marrying, Mukayo realized

-that she couldn't conceive.

-That's when the couple

-decided to help the orphans.

-Jaco and Mukayo's village is

-now home to more than 40 children.

-Several adults have joined them

-from other villages...

-..that have been

-adversely affected by AIDS.

-The care and education

-they receive...

-..is among the best

-the Namib has to offer.

-Jaco and Mukayo...

-..have created

-a new tribe in the village.

-As a couple from two

-different tribes who've united...

-..it's important to them...

-..to preserve the Himba's heritage

-as well respecting other cultures.

-The children have a bright future.

-Our culture will progress.

-RHYTHMIC CLAPPING

-I have to admit,

-I didn't know what to expect...

-..when I arrived in the village.

-But now I can say it's been

-a roller coaster of emotions.

-Considering the Himba is a tribe...

-..who strongly believe

-in the family unit...

-..it broke my heart

-to see so many children...

-..orphaned.

-But on the other hand,

-it's a heroic story.

-I'm pleased to see what they've

-done, not only with the children...

-..but with the entire family here.

-I think I'll leave here happy...

-..after seeing

-how content the children are...

-..knowing they're in safe hands.

-My style of dancing is improving

-too, even if I say so myself!

-The Namib's sand dunes

-seem completely barren...

-..but every desert

-has its own unique ecosystem.

-The Namib's begins at the shoreline.

-But despite being

-this close to the Atlantic...

-..it's pretty grim here.

-I can understand why they call

-this coastline the Skeleton Coast.

-It's a graveyard for shipwrecks,

-aircraft and animals...

-..as well as sailors.

-Imagine some 200 years ago...

-..sailors arriving at the shoreline,

-having survived a shipwreck...

-..thinking,

-'Great, I'm still alive'...

-..and then facing the desert

-and realizing...

-..they had another

-major obstacle to overcome.

-They would've been lucky...

-..to have survived a week

-without food or water.

-But miraculously, the mists

-that roll in from the sea...

-..produce enough moisture

-to sustain life in the wilderness.

-But it requires

-an expert eye to spot it.

-Today the children are familiarizing

-themselves with the wildlife.

-Thank you, Tommy. Hello.

-Hello. I'm Lowri. How are you?

-Hello.

-More and more Namibians

-are living an urban lifestyle.

-Here in Erongo, the population

-has doubled over the past 20 years.

-For the children,

-city life provides many advantages.

-They are up-to-date with fashion,

-technology and modern gadgets.

-But the sand dunes are unfamiliar

-to them, which is a great pity...

-..according to Tommy Collard,

-an expert on the Namib's wildlife.

-I have a very large office.

-This is my office.

-We live

-in an electronic age nowadays.

-They actually make a joke

-that children are born...

-..with thick thumbs

-to play PlayStations.

-If you do not expose them

-to this environment...

-..and the importance of it,

-when they have the opportunity...

-..to make decisions,

-this will not be important for them.

-That's why the education of kids

-is at the top of my heart.

-He never misses.

-We're all

-enjoying ourselves today.

-Tommy's energy and enthusiasm

-is remarkable.

-His passion has rubbed off on us.

-The children are listening intently

-to his every word.

-It's hard to believe...

-..that the children only live a few

-miles away from the sand dunes...

-..yet they know so little about

-the tiny creatures that live here.

-Look at that. In the pallet

-of the mouth they have an opening.

-I used to think when I come here...

-..to the dunes

-I'd just run into a snake anytime.

-But now I saw the bushman...

-..I can see

-whether it's a snake or not.

-On your knees before me.

-The aim of the session is to get the

-children to overcome their fears...

-..and enjoy seeing and touching

-the Namib's creatures.

-And that includes me too.

-Turn a little bit

-towards the left there.

-There's a first time for everything.

-It doesn't feel that bad,

-to be honest...

-..but I can feel

-the animal shaking about.

-I don't think I can keep this up.

-Could you take it off now, please?

-He doesn't want to.

-Wait, wait, wait. One moment.

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-Camping in the Namib.

-No matter

-how experienced the traveller...

-..there is plenty here

-to make someone on edge.

-I'm a bag of nerves at the moment.

-I was sitting here having my supper

-after a hard day's work...

-..and the next thing we knew...

-..a wild elephant passed us...

-..only a matter

-of five metres away.

-He's now in the woods over there...

-..eating.

-I'm not going to

-shine the torch too much...

-..in case

-I draw attention to myself.

-But the car's doors are open...

-..just in case

-he decides to run at us.

-I'm so nervous, I can't speak.

-My heart's in my mouth.

-ELEPHANT GROANS

-Did you hear that?

-A sound like that

-is enough to keep us all awake.

-The elephants of the desert.

-There is nowhere in the world

-apart from the Namib...

-..and one other desert

-where they wander freely.

-Everyone who visits here

-is eager to see them up close...

-..but from a safe distance

-because there's no doubt...

-..that despite their beauty,

-these creatures are large and wild.

-Camping in this country

-is a different experience...

-..from camping at home in Wales.

-Instead of worrying about

-proximity to the toilets...

-..here you have to worry about

-the presence of elephants!

-But it is possible to co-exist

-as long as you follow the rules.

-For instance,

-once you reach the main road...

-..instead of checking for cars,

-you look both ways...

-..to make sure there are

-no elephants on the road.

-Look who passed us...

-..just a few metres away from our

-beds, in search of food and water.

-Elephants.

-Look at this.

-Their feet are enormous.

-Incredible, isn't it?

-This breed of elephant

-has adapted perfectly to the desert.

-Their most valuable asset

-is their ability to find water.

-Mothers can lead their offspring...

-..hundreds of miles

-across the desert to a well...

-..even if they've

-only drunk from there once before.

-They can hear the sound of rain...

-..far across the Namib's plains...

-..and follow the sound

-in order to quench their thirst.

-Desert people

-knew that following the elephant...

-..would also lead them

-to fresh drinking water.

-The Namib's tribes

-such as the Herero...

-..put that knowledge

-to good use while farming...

-..so that it benefited their cattle.

-But the 19th century

-brought new competition...

-..for the desert's resources...

-..sparking the bleakest period

-in the Namib's history.

-German farmers

-came to settle here...

-..and acquired the Herero's land.

-Violence

-soon escalated into genocide.

-Thousands of the Herero's men...

-..women and children were killed.

-Thousands more were imprisoned...

-..in abominable conditions

-or turned into slaves.

-80,000 of the tribe

-lived in the Namib...

-..before the atrocities began.

-Fewer than 15,000 survived.

-In the desert, close to

-the town of Okambe-Odombo...

-..where the genocide took place...

-..some of the Herero remain.

-They are still here,

-keeping goats and cattle.

-Festus Tjiveze

-is a farmer and a proud Herero.

-Despite the tribe's

-bloody and cruel past...

-..he and his family,

-along with many other tribesmen...

-..have adopted elements

-from the German way of life.

-Festus's wife, Ella, dresses in the

-style of the European oppressors...

-..despite its impracticality

-for farm work.

-This is the kind of dress my mother

-wore, and her mother before her.

-Mother told me

-I should always wear it.

-She said it was part of our culture.

-The Germans kept women like Ella's

-great-grandmother as servants.

-But they were loath to accept...

-..the Herero's uninhibited custom

-for baring their bodies.

-The masters insisted

-they cover their bare breasts.

-At least Ella's hat is a symbol

-of the tribe's tradition.

-It signifies the cattle's horns.

-The attire has since become part

-of the Herero's identity...

-..and the tribeswomen are very proud

-of their dressmaking skills.

-Her skill as a seamstress

-is the mark of a good wife.

-I made all these clothes myself.

-My mother taught me.

-I used to sit next to her

-and watch her as she sewed.

-This is the outfit I wear to town.

-I wear this during the ceremonies to

-remember the Herero's lost heroes.

-One, two...

-Counting the many outfits

-is a tradition here.

-It's worthy of pride.

-I think the dress says it all.

-Happiness.

-Thank you.

-The Tjiavezes

-rely on their livestock.

-Each day they must ensure

-there is enough water for them.

-But Festus isn't the only one...

-..who knows this well's whereabouts.

-The desert's elephants

-need water too.

-It's a problem

-because once the elephants come...

-..if there's no water,

-they cause damage...

-..and throw sand everywhere.

-That's what happened

-to this water trough.

-The battle for water...

-..is a result of climate change.

-Elephants and people

-are pitted against each other...

-..in frighteningly destructive ways.

-Festus has just told me

-about the night he was away...

-..tending to his goats...

-..when Ella heard the elephant

-coming up the road.

-It ate from that tree over there...

-..infiltrated the goats' pen

-and singled one out.

-Unfortunately he threw the goat up

-in the air and trod on the poor dab.

-I can imagine how frightened Ella

-must have been of the elephant...

-..because I've heard

-the sound with my own ears.

-I imagine it even frightens those...

-..who are used to seeing

-these huge creatures.

-But elephants are suffering too,

-and not only from a lack of water.

-Although it's illegal...

-..it's fashionable...

-..to come to the Namib

-to hunt elephant.

-It's no wonder these wild creatures

-react with ferocity.

-It'd be a travesty for the Namib

-if the Herero lost the desire...

-..to live alongside

-the elephants in the desert.

-Thank goodness

-there's a scheme in place...

-..to give local people the chance to

-study the elephant in its habitat.

-Ella and I...

-..join a safari that brings humans

-face to face with wild elephants.

-The elephants

-are at that hill there.

-I have to admit,

-I'm uneasy about this.

-I'm nervous, especially

-being in this open vehicle.

-But at the end of the day...

-..I really hope

-I get to see a few elephants.

-At last, here they are.

-For many of the group...

-..this is the closest

-they've come to an elephant.

-I've always considered myself

-very lucky.

-I've been on exciting adventures

-and travelled the world...

-..but honestly,

-from the bottom of my heart...

-..this is one of

-the best things I've ever seen.

-I feel very privileged.

-And despite

-Ella's unfortunate episode...

-..with an elephant at home...

-..she's changed her mind.

-I was afraid of them, at first.

-But having come close to them...

-..I'm starting to get used to them.

-They're very handsome.

-But, of course, not all of them

-react in the same way...

-..which highlights the need

-for this unique scheme.

-When the elephant threw dust...

-..like he was trying to determine

-the direction of the wind...

-..my heart was racing.

-I was scared. My body

-was warm and cold at the same time.

-I'm still shaking.

-Face to face with the elephants

-of the Namib Desert.

-This is one of

-the best experiences of my life.

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-The mountains of the Namib

-hide a wealth of treasures.

-10% of the world's uranium supply

-lies beneath them.

-In the north, surrounding

-Namibia's highest peaks...

-..they mine for precious gems.

-But it is not the concern

-of major companies...

-..but family-run businesses.

-Before I leave the Namib...

-..I visit

-the Brandberg Mountain region...

-..to witness how a family

-is able to survive in the desert.

-Hello, how are you?

-Good morning.

-Good morning.

-

-I'm Ras. Pleased to meet you.

-Lowri. Hello.

-This is Martha.

-Ras and Martha

-have raised their family...

-..in this remote wilderness.

-Although breakfast time at the

-Greef home seems pretty civilised...

-Can I sit here?

-..they acknowledge this way of life

-isn't to everybody's liking.

-The desert doesn't suit everybody.

-When you look

-at the wilderness around you...

-..and then place yourself

-in that wilderness...

-..you realize

-how small you actually are.

-The desert

-has a profound effect on a person.

-It makes you resilient...

-..and forces you to adapt.

-The desert

-doesn't change for anyone.

-It hasn't rained here for two years.

-A shortage of water

-is the family's biggest concern.

-They have to travel

-around 50 miles once a week...

-..to fetch water in order to live.

-After the dishes are washed,

-it's time for homework.

-Instead of sending

-their children away to school...

-..Martha and Ras have decided

-to tutor their children at home...

-..in order

-to keep the family unit together.

-While Mam

-turns her attention to teaching...

-..Dad is eager to begin his work.

-Ultimately, it is the quarry

-which sustains the family.

-If you need to move a mountain,

-all you need is simple equipment...

-..elbow grease

-and plenty of dedication.

-For the most stubborn rocks...

-..a pinch of gunpowder

-comes in handy.

-Within the rock, they hope to find

-diamond or crystal.

-The more, the better.

-It's very pretty.

-Very pretty, Ras.

-Demand for gems is on the rise...

-..but do we truly appreciate

-the effort required to produce them?

-These men have been working

-since the early hours...

-..in this intense heat,

-searching for their fortune.

-These are

-the fruits of their hard labour.

-I must admit, I have the utmost

-respect for every one of them.

-They work incredibly hard...

-..without the aid

-of modern machines.

-Each of them

-dreams of making his fortune...

-..but this isn't the end product.

-The hard work has only just begun.

-They must mould and polish the gems.

-Martha and daughter Ella

-ensure that the family...

-..profits fully

-from the men's hard work.

-Shaping the stone

-increases its value.

-If we make it a labour of love

-and put in a lot of effort...

-..we'll get

-a better price for our labour.

-It's very meticulous work

-but the results are rewarding.

-They can sometimes make

-a substantial profit.

-The size of this crystal...

-..and the fact it's set within

-another crystal makes it valuable.

-It's of a very high quality

-and no imperfections.

-It's nice to see Brandberg produce.

-As our final sunrise

-in the desert approaches...

-..the place lives up to its name.

-Brandberg - Fire Mountain.

-Before they relax, there is one

-necessary task they must complete.

-They must ensure

-there are no unwelcome guests.

-I can't remember

-how many times I've been bitten.

-It must be more than 100.

-The worst thing is being bitten...

-..by the large black Parabuthus.

-You're ill for three days.

-You're ill for three days.

-

-Yes, skerpioen!

-The word is the same in Afrikaans.

-If you think I'm looking nervous,

-I've good reason.

-For me, the creature itself

-is as vile as the sound of its name!

-But eventually it's safe

-to light the fire...

-..prepare the meat

-and enjoy the barbecue.

-They say

-they live a simple life here...

-..but having seen their devotion

-to the land and to one another...

-..I believe

-they lead a privileged life.

-Dankie, Martha.

-SHE SPEAKS AFRIKAANS

-Martha has just said, "Welcome to

-the hotel of 1,000 stars."

-Anybody who's ever crossed the Namib

-will never forget the experience.

-The striking landscape, the beauty

-of its wildlife, and the people...

-..are among some of the warmest,

-most welcoming people...

-..I've ever met.

-I've learnt that no matter how

-strong and experienced you may be...

-..you'll never ever

-win the battle over nature.

-But with respect, you can

-survive its extreme conditions.

-I've experienced pure silence here.

-The journey

-has certainly enriched my life.

-For me, the Namib Desert is

-somewhere where the soul can rest.

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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