Devon A Taste of Britain


Devon

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Transcript


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He's Brian Turner.

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And she's Janet Street-Porter.

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I'm passionate about walking.

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These feet have taken me the length and breadth of Great Britain.

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I've been privileged to cook all round the world,

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but it's Britain that I love.

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Fabulous produce, great ingredients right here on the doorstop.

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We're joining forces to explore Britain's rich heritage.

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And the landscape that's given us such wonderful produce.

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He's in charge of the food.

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And guess what, She's in charge of everything else!

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-This is...

-A Taste of Britain.

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We're in the fantastic coastal county of Devon,

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an area steeped in history, abundant in fresh local produce

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and home to the English Riviera.

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We'll be getting our claws into some of the county's sensational seafood.

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-The crabs are fantastic...

-Ah, ah, ah!

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-Hold it like that from the side.

-Come on!

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..which I'll be cooking up with the help of the great British weather.

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That's got a secret ingredient, English rain.

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It's afternoon tea for two as we sample another Devonshire delight.

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I treat the cream like caviar.

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I don't have to shove a great big lorry load of it in my mouth.

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And I'll be impressing the locals with my culinary skills as

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I cook up a celebratory dish that captures a flavour of Devon.

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Hallelujah! Oh, grand. Thank you very much sir.

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Brian, here we are in Devon on top of a hill,

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fabulous views in all directions.

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To the north over there, Dartmoor and, look, down there, Totnes,

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fantastically important historic town.

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It's got a Norman castle, loads and loads of listed buildings.

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I can't wait to show you Totnes.

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And it sits on the River Dart at the head of the estuary that goes

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all the way down to the sea.

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-Is that Dartmouth down there as well?

-Yep.

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I need to go there, there's a gentleman there who lands

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perfectly beautiful crab and I've got to see those.

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But just look at these wonderful hills here, fabulous produce.

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First, for me, please, it's Dartmouth and crabs.

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-Off we go.

-Let's away.

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The nautical town of Dartmouth dates back to 1147

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when it was used as a key port during the Crusades.

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Nowadays, it's big on tourism and even bigger on fishing.

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There's nothing better than freshly caught British seafood.

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I can't possibly come to Dartmouth without getting my hands on

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some fresh Devonshire crab

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and Alan Steer is just the man to help me.

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Looks like a busy stretch of water out there.

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-Oh!

-Yep.

-This looks slippery.

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-Allow me. Hi, Alan.

-Morning. All right, guys?

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-I'm not your mother!

-There you go, madam.

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-Thank you.

-And I don't mind someone giving me a hand.

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-No, OK.

-I appreciate it, thank you very much.

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Welcome aboard.

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These just look magnificent, lovely crabs.

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So how long you been crab fishing?

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I started with my father probably when I was about five years old.

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Started on the shore just working in the small boat, messing around.

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I've been in it ever since.

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As soon as I left school, started on the boat.

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Was your dad doing it for a long time before that and his dad?

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Father, grandfather. I'm third generation crab fisherman.

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-Oh, fantastic.

-And how often do you go out? Every day?

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We put the pots down and we let them fish for a day and then we go back

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the following day and pick them up, empty them and re-bait them.

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So, it's an every other day sort of season for us.

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And what are you using as bait?

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We really like red gurnard, it's one of our favourite baits.

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That's one of my favourite fish too.

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This is the problem, our bait prices are going through the roof

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because they're getting popular to eat. That's...

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You mean these are kind of gourmet crabs,

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they'll only eat certain things?

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Crab really likes fresh bait.

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So what's it about this part of the world that makes

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these crabs so special?

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It was one of the birthplaces of the crab fishing, really,

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it's been going on down here since the Domesday Book.

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And it's the clean, deep waters, really.

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Relatively warm for around the British Isles,

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and abundance of food.

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That's why the crabs like it and they grow to such decent sizes.

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What age are these crabs here?

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Average age a crab will live to, is sort of, 25/30 years.

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They can get a lot older but that's the sort of average age.

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-What about this one?

-It's very hard to...

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-He looks pretty mean.

-..to age a crab, to be fair.

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-Yeah.

-The old fellows, the old fishermen,

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they always used to reckon an inch a year across the back

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of the shell but I don't know how much truth is in that.

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So, you'd say that would be about eight or nine years.

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Probably eight, nine years, ten years maybe so...

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Alan, how can you tell the male crabs from the female crabs?

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We've got... There are two sorts of crab here.

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This is the male crab. Here you are Janet,

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-I'll give you that one to hold.

-Yeah.

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-Is that the best way to hold it?

-That's probably the easiest way.

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If you put your hand in here they automatically close round,

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so it's probably not best to do that.

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If you put it in here, they'll trap your thumbs with their claws.

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Hold them by the back, you're absolutely fine.

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-Brian, you can have the female. There you go.

-Sounds good to me.

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The easiest way is looking at the bottom of these crabs.

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The male has a very narrow flap on the abdomen here.

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-OK, yeah, yeah.

-The female has this great big wide flap.

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This is for carrying eggs when she's breeding.

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This flap opens right up and gets full of orange eggs,

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thousands, thousands of eggs.

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Now, as a professional fisherman, what do you prefer eating?

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They're both nice. I prefer the female.

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I think it's a slightly more delicate, sweeter flavour.

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How long do you boil them for?

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We put them into the water once they've been killed,

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bring them to the boil and we boil them for about 20 minutes

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and then tip them out straight into cold water, stop the cooking.

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Oh, I love the whole idea of crab.

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I'm just getting more hungry by the minute.

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So just quickly looking in here, the crabs are fantastic.

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-Ah, ah, ah!

-Hold it like that from the side.

-Come on!

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-There you go.

-Yeah.

-That's it,

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-cos you've got him in a ball now he can't...

-Of all the people I know

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who are good at dealing with males, you're the one to...

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Well, the good thing about it like this, it's not grabby, is it?

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-No.

-Unlike a lot of blokes.

-Yeah.

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-They really are fantastic looking beasts, aren't they?

-Yeah.

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Wonderful. So we're obviously going to cook with these if we may,

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but I'm going to keep it simple, so perhaps you can boil a couple for me.

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Do you have some crabs I can have?

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-No problem at all, we can sort that out for you, Brian.

-Come on.

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I want to prepare something that really sums up the sea.

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It's a classic recipe but with a bit of a Dartmouth twist.

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It's a good job I packed my sea legs,

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it's getting a little bit choppy.

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A life on the ocean wave, my dear. Right.

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-You've made it extra wavy.

-I can't believe all of this.

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I'm just trying to maintain my balance.

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Look, what I'm going to do is something simple,

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-not a lot of cooking.

-Yeah.

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-A crab cocktail, just like a prawn cocktail.

-Yeah.

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But I'm going to show you how to properly do it,

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so it eats and tastes well. Alan! How we doing with that crab?

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Here you go, Brian. Some of Devon's finest crab for you.

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You're a gent, look at them.

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Fantastic, I'm going to leave that for a second, all right?

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I'll show you what I've got in a minute, but the first thing

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we need to do, we need to make the two sauces

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to make this wonderful crab cocktail.

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-So, a bit of mustard goes in there.

-Yeah.

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A bit of white wine vinegar. Kapow!

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Or lemon juice, anything in the citric works well there.

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Give it a good old stir. And then some olive oil.

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And some groundnut oil, yeah.

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Carefully measured in there.

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A bit of sea salt, a bit of pepper and give that a whirl round.

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So we've got that one ready to go, that's fine.

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Then, of course, we want to make this very famous Marie Rose sauce.

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Now everybody makes it with just the tomato sauce, mayonnaise

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and that's it. We're going to put a little bit more than that in there.

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So what we do, is we put the mayonnaise... You don't have to make

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your own mayonnaise, you can buy it. Good stuff. In it goes in there.

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As much tomato as you want, that suits you.

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-Is that tomato ketchup?

-Tomato ketchup, it's traditional.

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-Yeah.

-Just to give you that lovely colour.

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However, I think it deserves just that little bit more now.

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So, I'm going to put some horseradish in there.

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-Oh, that's a great idea.

-Give it a bit of bite.

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-Yeah.

-Goes in there, that's lovely.

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And then...

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-..skipper's tot here.

-Ah.

-This is a bit of brandy.

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So, this is fresh dressed crab.

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What I want to do now, just quickly, is take some of the brown

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and put it into the Marie Rose sauce, yeah.

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So that just makes it a different sauce again,

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-but just gives it that wonderful...

-Thickens it up as well.

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Exactly. Gives it a lovely crab flavour.

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So if it's too thick,

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you put a bit more brandy in there to let it down, OK.

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But only if you tell people that they're going to get it.

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So, crab's over here.

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We've taken the claws off.

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Now, I learnt something today that I've never known before.

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I understand if you very carefully

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bash it off there, that should release this.

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It comes off so easy, that's fantastic.

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-I never realised that before.

-Yeah.

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-It's so much easier to open.

-This gentleman showed me.

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It does. Alan, that is a top tip,

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because usually I do it with a hammer and it goes everywhere.

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-You, you see people with rolling pins, hammers.

-Yeah.

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And then, of course, you hold this and you just give it a tap.

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And if you're very careful, the whole thing comes out together.

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We can slide that claw out. However, I think

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sometimes, it's easier just to have this wonderful dressed crab.

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So we're going to kick off.

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I've got some lettuce here, some little gem lettuce,

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which I do love. Lovely and crispy.

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Into the bowl.

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A dice of cucumber.

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I'm just going to cut a nice little dice of avocado pear.

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Now, I think the real problem with this, is that people don't

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actually season it correctly.

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So if we put a bit of vinaigrette in there.

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So now it's a proper salad already.

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A little bit of salt, a bit of pepper.

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And I've got under here two nice...

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-Oh, yes.

-..Martini glasses.

-Yeah.

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Presentation just elevates the whole thing up.

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So we put our salad...

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..in there.

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As much or as little as you want but it's dressed, that's the secret.

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Yeah, there's nothing worse than

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a load of old dried leaves down the bottom of the glass.

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But do you remember in the '60s, when it used to be the favourite

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dish of everybody, it was never seasoned at all?

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So I'm going to take my crab meat now, as much or as little as you like.

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I'm going to put a little bit of sauce in there.

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Now the nice thing about this sauce is it's got a secret ingredient -

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English rain... THEY LAUGH

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..that I hadn't expected to put in there.

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So that goes...

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in there - that's delicious.

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Give it a whirl round.

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If you've got time to let that sit for five or ten minutes

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so much the better, so the whole thing marinades

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and the flavours then become really quite prominent.

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I'm going to put a bit of sauce on top.

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Remember, we've got that brown crab meat in there.

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A bit of tomato on top for colour.

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And I've got pea shoots over here just to make that little

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bit of a focal point.

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And there you have it.

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That's what I call a real crab cocktail, thanks to you, Alan.

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In a downpour, well done.

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So come on, underneath the umbrella, let's have a taste,

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tell us what you think. I'll hold it.

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-Right.

-Ladies first.

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It's not often I get called that, Alan.

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Right.

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Mm.

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Very crabby.

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Can I just taste the bottom bit?

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Course you can.

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That makes all the difference.

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Thank you very much.

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That, and the local crab.

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The flavour of the crab, it's plain, simple,

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that's just how I love it - it's a beautiful dish.

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Despite the weather, Brian's crab cocktail was a great way to

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begin sampling a taste of the region.

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Devon may be a Mecca for seafood lovers from all over the world

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but it's also heaven for history buffs like me.

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Totnes is a market town perched on the River Dart

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in the South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

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It has a rich history dating all the way back to 907 AD.

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It's home to a famous Norman castle, and guide Win Scutt

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has kindly agreed to give me a tour.

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Come and have a look at this wonderful castle. All right.

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This dates to the sort of 1200s, really.

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So this was built by the Normans.

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The Normans, exactly, so...

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-Was it to frighten the local Anglo-Saxons?

-Yeah.

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Well, they built about a thousand

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of these motte-and-baileys around England.

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It's just beautifully preserved.

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-So you've got a big, tall, flat mound, the motte.

-Yes.

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And on the top of this was a tower.

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And surrounding that was a large wooden wall,

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so it was really defensive.

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So it replaced a hill fort.

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-Well...

-What would have been on this hill before?

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Well, just sort of out that way, towards the river,

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is a wonderful Saxon town which was started in the early 11th century -

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a really important one.

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I'll take you around over there.

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So this really was the stronghold.

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But this isn't where people lived - this is where they would have

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kept the swords and the shields and everything like that.

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And also the treasure -

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if they'd got any valuables they'd keep them up here...

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-So if they thought that Totnes was under attack...

-Yeah.

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..everything valuable in the town was piled into here.

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And I think they'd probably have kept stores in here, just in case.

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You know, you'd have, what would be the equivalent of

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your tins of peaches or something here, you know.

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What a fantastic view of the River Dart.

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Yeah, and in front of it, all these lovely grey, slate roofs.

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This is the town that belongs to the sort of 15/1600s.

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But it's built on top of the early Medieval town,

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and that lovely Saxon town.

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And this was a really important Saxon town in the 1000s.

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So before William the Conqueror conquered in 1066, this was already

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a bustling town, commanding that

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sort of crossing point of the River Dart.

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And this is where the market was,

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there was wealth coming in from the fields - presumably sheep and wool.

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So a fantastically important place.

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In fact, by the time of Domesday

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this was the second most important town in Devon after Exeter.

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-How did it get the name Totnes?

-Ah, a good question.

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"Tot" means lookout place and the "nes" is like a nose.

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So you can imagine like Dungeness and Loch Ness and places -

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it refers to a headland, like a nose of land.

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So it's the lookout place on the headland.

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That's where it gets its name.

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And look at the views.

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While Janet soaks up some local history,

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I am still trying to pin down a taste of this region.

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Someone who embraces Dartmouth's abundant fresh seafood supply

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is award-winning chef and fishmonger, Mitch Tonks.

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Good to be here, what you going to cook for us?

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I've got a cracking bit of local hake and I'm going to cook

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it in a very typical Basque style with some garlic,

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some sweet vinegar and some smoked peppers and a bit of sauce romesco -

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it's lovely.

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-Do you know what the Spanish for hake is?

-Merluza.

-Oh, no!

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-Merluza.

-I thought you hadn't got the answer to that.

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It's one of the... We've just got a bit of olive oil in the pan there.

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It's one of the kind of forgotten fish down here.

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A lot of fisherman have turned over to catching it

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and we've got a huge supply of it. I mean, look at it - it's just fantastic.

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What I'm going to do is just going to get a little bit of colour on the skin

0:16:130:16:17

and I'm then going to turn the fish over and put it in the oven.

0:16:170:16:19

All these lovely fillets of fish just need a nice bit

0:16:190:16:21

of all-round heat in the oven to finish them off,

0:16:210:16:23

except if you've got something really thin.

0:16:230:16:25

That's a lovely colour, is that.

0:16:270:16:29

And then in there we go. Sorry, Brian.

0:16:290:16:32

I take it that you're a kind of guy that likes to cook fish pink,

0:16:320:16:36

-dare I say it.

-Yeah, I think the thing is with fish,

0:16:360:16:38

and certain fish, you need to get them just right.

0:16:380:16:41

There's a way that they just need to be flaking apart.

0:16:410:16:43

You just want all that lovely membrane between the flakes

0:16:430:16:46

to have just melted so the fish is flaking.

0:16:460:16:48

But, for me, all the best fish I've ever eaten in my life

0:16:480:16:50

has been all around the Mediterranean,

0:16:500:16:53

around the shores of southern France, Italy,

0:16:530:16:55

-where it's all about simplicity.

-That's the secret.

0:16:550:16:57

-A - it's simply treated, and B - it is ultra-fresh.

-Absolutely.

0:16:570:17:02

And that's what you want to taste, you want to taste the sea.

0:17:020:17:04

I don't want to taste any kind of overpowering ingredients.

0:17:040:17:07

Well, this sauce, lots of olive oil but we're using

0:17:070:17:10

really good extra virgin olive oil.

0:17:100:17:12

Would you think of using rapeseed oil?

0:17:120:17:14

Cos that's fairly fashionable these days in the UK.

0:17:140:17:16

I think it's fashionable and the flavour's OK,

0:17:160:17:19

but you can't cook without olive oil in my opinion. I love olive oil.

0:17:190:17:22

And then what I've got here is some sliced garlic, nice and thin.

0:17:220:17:25

I want the temperature quite low because this is a dish where you

0:17:250:17:29

want the garlic... You don't want it to fry -

0:17:290:17:31

there's a difference between fried garlic and garlic that's just...

0:17:310:17:34

I call it being encouraged.

0:17:340:17:36

-Perfect. Get the flavour out but without colour.

-Right.

0:17:360:17:39

-Because if you colour that, it's going to be bitter, is it not?

-It is.

0:17:390:17:42

If you cook it too hot...

0:17:420:17:43

I want colour but I don't want colour quickly.

0:17:430:17:46

And then I've got some of these nora and choricero peppers which

0:17:460:17:49

have been smoked over wood

0:17:490:17:50

and they give it a really smoky richness, really good.

0:17:500:17:54

They're not fiery, they're not hot,

0:17:540:17:55

but we get this real depth to the sauce which is so good.

0:17:550:17:58

So what do we do about

0:17:580:18:00

educating the British public to enjoy fish?

0:18:000:18:03

You've started an academy, I believe.

0:18:030:18:05

Yep, I was working with a college one day

0:18:050:18:07

and I just noticed all this, this wonderful talent, cooking

0:18:070:18:09

the curriculum but they weren't using a lot of our local fish.

0:18:090:18:12

So I thought it would be good for them to get some practical skills,

0:18:120:18:15

understand a bit about our seafood and then when they

0:18:150:18:17

go off into jobs, they've got something really, really tangible.

0:18:170:18:20

For me, if you've got a restaurant in this area,

0:18:200:18:23

the whole South West peninsula, this is the best fish in the world,

0:18:230:18:25

it's what we should be doing.

0:18:250:18:27

And I suspect that's just about ready now, chef.

0:18:270:18:29

I just like to take the skin off,

0:18:310:18:33

cos I love that moistness of that hake.

0:18:330:18:34

Look at it, it just looks beautiful.

0:18:340:18:37

It's perfect and I totally agree with you that the

0:18:370:18:40

moisture in there suddenly and the pure whiteness of it.

0:18:400:18:43

It just comes out, doesn't it?

0:18:430:18:45

-So we've got our garlic, our peppers.

-Yeah.

0:18:450:18:47

We've got a little parsley in there.

0:18:470:18:49

We'll just give that a quick fry.

0:18:510:18:53

So we've got some temperature in there.

0:18:530:18:55

Very good vinegar made from Cava grapes - slightly sweet.

0:18:550:18:59

And that goes in.

0:19:000:19:01

That's not hugely acidic. And then over the top...

0:19:020:19:05

Perfect. And then just a little bit of the sauce romesco on the side,

0:19:100:19:13

which is roasted almonds, roasted peppers, roasted onions,

0:19:130:19:16

sweet paprika, smoked paprika, garlic, a little vinegar.

0:19:160:19:21

And there you have a bit of local hake -

0:19:210:19:22

just the type of thing you'd eat

0:19:220:19:24

while you're wandering through San Sebastian

0:19:240:19:26

with your peppers, your garlic,

0:19:260:19:28

a little bit of vinegar, your sauce romesco. Top.

0:19:280:19:30

Delicious.

0:19:300:19:32

Hake is one of my favourite fish

0:19:320:19:34

so I can't wait to taste Mitch's version.

0:19:340:19:37

Here's some of our local hake cooked in a very traditional

0:19:370:19:40

Spanish style with sauce romesco. Enjoy.

0:19:400:19:43

-Thank you very much.

-Thank you, Mitch.

0:19:430:19:45

Now you don't get hake very often - when was the last time you had hake?

0:19:450:19:48

Two weeks ago.

0:19:480:19:49

You don't get hake many more times than once a fortnight.

0:19:490:19:52

I'm sorry. Well, I'm only telling the truth!

0:19:520:19:55

I do like it but it's quite hard to get here.

0:19:550:19:57

These peppers, you can smell the peppers and garlic - so simple.

0:19:570:20:00

He's done a great job.

0:20:000:20:01

Mm.

0:20:050:20:07

It smells delicious. Those are nora smoked peppers.

0:20:070:20:10

This is the way you want to eat hake when you're in Spain...

0:20:100:20:12

but they don't do it this well!

0:20:120:20:14

BRIAN LAUGHS

0:20:140:20:16

Look how beautifully fresh it is.

0:20:160:20:17

Well, the beauty of course is the water's just over there.

0:20:170:20:20

-Mm-hm.

-It's landed locally - it doesn't have to travel anywhere.

0:20:200:20:24

And he's treated it so simply, he hasn't mashed it up with anything.

0:20:240:20:27

-Mm, good sauce.

-There's lumps of almond in there.

0:20:290:20:31

-Mm-hm.

-They're delicious.

-It's that smoky red pepper.

0:20:310:20:35

-A bit of garlic in there.

-Yeah.

-Lots of lovely garlic.

0:20:350:20:39

You're looking very serious.

0:20:390:20:40

I'm working out how to do it at home.

0:20:400:20:43

That's why I was looking serious, cos I love hake.

0:20:430:20:46

-But that's...

-And I want more people to eat hake.

0:20:460:20:48

But that's the beauty of this dish, people can do this at home,

0:20:480:20:51

cos it's not complicated at all.

0:20:510:20:53

No. And you can whack up that sauce in the blender.

0:20:530:20:56

Mm.

0:20:580:20:59

You just can't beat a bit of fresh British fish.

0:21:070:21:10

Now I've had a look around Totnes Castle, I'd like to show Brian

0:21:130:21:17

a few more historical sites around the town.

0:21:170:21:20

There is a lovely little passageway. It's fantastic, this is.

0:21:200:21:25

This is fabulous. This dates from Tudor times.

0:21:250:21:28

It's called Butterwalk

0:21:280:21:29

and it's where they used to sell dairy products.

0:21:290:21:32

Obviously all the fields around were full of cows and

0:21:320:21:35

they made butter and milk and cream and cheese,

0:21:350:21:39

and then they came into Totnes to sell it.

0:21:390:21:42

I love book shops, don't you?

0:21:420:21:43

I do, I do, I do - I buy too many books.

0:21:430:21:46

-Look, Little Miss Scatterbrain, I wonder who that is?

-Yeah.

0:21:460:21:49

-Look at this fantastic church.

-It's brill, isn't it?

-Yeah.

0:21:580:22:01

It's 15th century, and it's probably at least the third church that

0:22:030:22:07

stood on this site. The original one dates back to Saxon times.

0:22:070:22:10

-And look at that tower.

-What's it made of?

0:22:100:22:12

Red sandstone - that's the local stone.

0:22:120:22:14

All those amazing ornaments on it and look at, over the portico here.

0:22:210:22:26

-Uh-huh.

-Angels or knights flying off into space.

0:22:260:22:29

Yeah. It's amazing, isn't it?

0:22:290:22:31

Totnes is not just a town for seafood fans

0:22:410:22:44

and history lovers, it also has a strong new-age community,

0:22:440:22:48

many of whom still worship at the intriguingly named Leechwell.

0:22:480:22:53

Brian, see that sign - leeches were used for bloodletting,

0:22:540:22:59

which was thought to help cure you in Medieval times.

0:22:590:23:03

But more importantly the leech well,

0:23:030:23:07

the fount of all healing in Medieval times.

0:23:070:23:12

The three spouts relate to three different springs,

0:23:120:23:16

and each one had a name and each one cured a different ailment.

0:23:160:23:20

-The right one - snake, for bites.

-Oh, right.

0:23:200:23:24

The middle one.... This is like Mastermind on springs.

0:23:240:23:28

-Long crippler, and that's for eyes.

-Right.

0:23:280:23:32

And the toad is for skin.

0:23:320:23:35

Now there's no leeches in there now, are there?

0:23:350:23:37

-No, but I'm not going down there.

-Right, well I'm going to have a look.

0:23:370:23:40

-Be careful!

-Right, what's this for?

0:23:400:23:43

Er, long crippler. Um, I think that's for eyes.

0:23:430:23:49

OK, right, so let's have a quick look.

0:23:490:23:51

Well, today, the locals,

0:23:510:23:53

the new-age locals, think that these springs have healing properties.

0:23:530:23:57

And there's a little shrine behind you of offerings to the gods.

0:23:570:24:01

I'm going to have some of what it's worth.

0:24:030:24:05

Don't put it in your mouth!

0:24:050:24:06

-No, I won't, I won't. Do you want some of this?

-No thanks. No, keep it away.

0:24:060:24:10

-Ju-just, just-ta-ta-ta...

-Brian, Brian!

0:24:100:24:12

Only one thing goes on my face and that's face cream.

0:24:120:24:15

-Keep that water away.

-OK, right, fine.

0:24:150:24:17

After all that walking, we've earned a bit of relaxation and we couldn't

0:24:230:24:27

possibly come to Devon without sampling its world-famous cream tea.

0:24:270:24:32

-I just want to look at the menu.

-Beautiful, I know what I'm having.

0:24:330:24:36

-Hello.

-Hello there.

0:24:360:24:37

-I'm going to order for Brian.

-Right.

0:24:380:24:41

SHARE a cream tea - forget that. He'd like a cream tea.

0:24:410:24:45

-Yes.

-A cream tea!

0:24:450:24:47

Yes, plenty of cream.

0:24:470:24:49

-With, a pot of tea?

-Oh, absolument.

-Yes.

0:24:490:24:53

I'll have the mini cream tea, please.

0:24:530:24:54

You're not supposed to have it with coffee.

0:24:540:24:56

What's the difference between a Devon cream tea

0:24:560:25:00

and a Cornish cream tea?

0:25:000:25:02

-I know.

-I believe that the, the Devonshire cream tea,

0:25:020:25:05

you put your cream on first and then your jam on the top,

0:25:050:25:08

but if you're in Cornwall it's the other way round.

0:25:080:25:11

Do the two counties compete in the history of the cream tea?

0:25:110:25:16

I believe they do.

0:25:160:25:17

I think probably Devon thinks that they do the best

0:25:170:25:20

and probably Cornwall think they do the best.

0:25:200:25:22

-Oh, well, thank you.

-Thank you.

-Thank you.

0:25:220:25:25

-Hello.

-I hope you enjoy it.

0:25:270:25:29

-Oh, look at that.

-Oh, my goodness.

0:25:290:25:31

That's the cream that we're going to have to share.

0:25:310:25:33

-That's mine.

-Yeah, yeah.

-Yes, yes.

0:25:330:25:35

That's home-made strawberry jam, raspberry jam and gooseberry jam.

0:25:350:25:39

-Thank you so much.

-I hope you enjoy it.

0:25:390:25:41

Here you are, Duchess.

0:25:410:25:42

-Would you like me to pour the tea for you?

-No.

0:25:420:25:45

See, I don't quite understand why you're having green tea today -

0:25:450:25:48

it's like weak pea soup.

0:25:480:25:50

In my life there's the word moderation.

0:25:500:25:52

I'll just have a bit of strawberry jam.

0:25:550:25:57

Raspberry jam looks lovely.

0:25:570:25:59

Oh, my God. Look at the difference, look.

0:26:030:26:06

-You've eaten half of yours already - look.

-No.

0:26:060:26:09

I'm going to try gooseberry as well.

0:26:110:26:13

These are really good scones, because I'll tell you what

0:26:140:26:17

I don't like is when you get a scone and you pick it up and it feels

0:26:170:26:20

like a boulder and you cut it in half and it's a big lump of dough.

0:26:200:26:23

-How was the gooseberry?

-Very good, I like it. It's tart.

0:26:320:26:35

-Did you have cream with it?

-No.

0:26:350:26:38

What is the point of coming all this way,

0:26:380:26:40

having the best cream tea and then not eating anything?

0:26:400:26:43

I treat the cream like caviar -

0:26:430:26:45

I don't have to shove a great big lorry load of it in my mouth.

0:26:450:26:48

-I'll take your pulse in a minute.

-Oh!

0:26:530:26:55

I think that's been fantastic. I've really enjoyed it.

0:26:550:26:58

I'm going to have a bit of fresh fruit.

0:26:580:27:00

Oh, like that's going to cancel out all the cream?!

0:27:000:27:03

My cholesterol's getting better by the second.

0:27:030:27:05

Well, we've got to get some ingredients for you to cook with.

0:27:050:27:09

I need some vegetables next,

0:27:090:27:10

and I've got a good idea where to get 'em from.

0:27:100:27:13

Come on, Brian.

0:27:130:27:15

Did me the world of good, did those scones.

0:27:150:27:17

-Don't let those carbs hold you down.

-Hey-ho, hey-ho!

0:27:170:27:20

Devon's fertile soil is renowned for producing top-quality vegetables

0:27:230:27:27

and I think they'd make the perfect ingredient

0:27:270:27:30

for my celebratory taste of the region.

0:27:300:27:32

I'm hoping I might be in luck over at Riverford Organic Farm

0:27:340:27:37

in Buckfastleigh.

0:27:370:27:39

It's run by vegetable producer, Guy Watson.

0:27:390:27:42

So, Janet and Brian, this is dispatch here.

0:27:420:27:44

We've packed up the boxes, we wheel

0:27:440:27:46

'em in here on pallets, all the different types and then we break

0:27:460:27:49

them down and add milk, yoghurt, fruit, anything the customer wants.

0:27:490:27:53

And that'll get rolled onto a lorry, off at one of the hubs tomorrow,

0:27:530:27:57

onto a van and it'll be on the doorstep tomorrow morning.

0:27:570:28:00

-So this is the nerve centre?

-Yeah, it is.

0:28:000:28:02

It takes a tremendous amount of logistics -

0:28:020:28:05

could be about 100 vans leaving from here tomorrow.

0:28:050:28:08

So packing's a big skill?

0:28:080:28:10

Yeah, we're masters of logistics.

0:28:100:28:12

It's become a large part of the business,

0:28:120:28:14

just making sure that everyone gets the right order.

0:28:140:28:17

Right, Guy, what have I got to do, please?

0:28:170:28:19

You've got to put a bunch of beetroot in each box. That one's got one.

0:28:190:28:22

-I'll put the spinach in.

-Right, OK.

0:28:220:28:25

Brian, put the tomatoes in. Off we go. A bit faster, please.

0:28:250:28:28

Put 'em in the right place.

0:28:280:28:30

So how did the veg box thing come about?

0:28:300:28:33

We started off selling to local shops, then wholesalers

0:28:330:28:35

and then supermarkets and I hated that.

0:28:350:28:39

And so I really wanted to sell direct to people

0:28:390:28:41

who liked my vegetables, and become a bit of an obsession now.

0:28:410:28:44

I'd never go back to conventional farming -

0:28:440:28:46

I think I'd rather give up, really.

0:28:460:28:48

So how many boxes do you do a week these days?

0:28:480:28:51

Er, we're on, up to almost 50,000 -

0:28:510:28:53

one every three seconds, so we'd better speed up.

0:28:530:28:56

Not on this line!

0:28:560:28:58

-So you've got a cafe?

-Yeah, yeah.

0:28:580:29:00

Would you like to go and have a cup of tea?

0:29:000:29:02

We've got a fantastic cafe on the farm.

0:29:020:29:03

I think I will. Brian, get on with your packing.

0:29:030:29:06

-Yeah, I'm doing my best here.

-Brian, I think we're going to go

0:29:060:29:08

and see where some of this beetroot and radish and garlic is grown...

0:29:080:29:12

-Lead on, sir, lead on.

-Let's go.

0:29:120:29:15

How do you actually go about being organic?

0:29:230:29:25

Do you have get a certificate or...?

0:29:250:29:28

Yeah, you do.

0:29:280:29:29

You decide to be organic

0:29:290:29:30

and you create a plan for converting the farm,

0:29:300:29:33

weaning it off the chemicals - the nitrogen fertiliser in particular.

0:29:330:29:38

And whilst you go through that process, the Soil Association

0:29:380:29:41

or another accrediting body will come and monitor it,

0:29:410:29:44

make sure you're doing it right.

0:29:440:29:45

So when you set out to do it, is there ever a moment when you

0:29:450:29:48

think, actually this too hard, I don't know why I'm doing this?

0:29:480:29:51

Oh, yeah. I can remember a couple of times

0:29:510:29:53

when I did actually weep in the fields.

0:29:530:29:55

But, I don't know, there was a sort of pigheaded determination,

0:29:550:29:58

stubbornness that made me carry on and I've learnt a lot since then.

0:29:580:30:03

You have to have an interest in doing it and

0:30:030:30:05

a kind of sympathy with nature

0:30:050:30:07

and a kind of understanding of ecology really,

0:30:070:30:11

and to really want to get involved in that rather than,

0:30:110:30:14

you know, reach for a chemical container for your solutions.

0:30:140:30:17

But your initial motivation was the fact that

0:30:170:30:19

you were ill and your brother was ill.

0:30:190:30:22

Yeah, my brother had been in hospital with paraquat poisoning.

0:30:220:30:25

As a teenager, I'd made myself ill spraying my father's barley

0:30:250:30:28

with herbicides and I just didn't like handling

0:30:280:30:32

the chemicals, with skull and crossbones all over the containers -

0:30:320:30:35

didn't seem right putting it on food, I suppose.

0:30:350:30:37

Now those radishes look really good.

0:30:370:30:40

I am going to cook, for this celebration meal, a tarte Tatin

0:30:400:30:43

of wonderful vegetables that you grow here,

0:30:430:30:45

but I'm going to use those if I may.

0:30:450:30:47

Great. Well, there you go, they couldn't be fresher than that.

0:30:470:30:50

Thank you very much, sir.

0:30:500:30:52

I'm really impressed by this Devonshire organic veg box empire,

0:30:520:30:55

and I think vegetables are the perfect star ingredient

0:30:550:30:59

for my celebratory taste of the region.

0:30:590:31:01

I just hope Guy and his staff are equally as impressed.

0:31:010:31:04

Well, we've had some wonderful crab.

0:31:040:31:06

-Yes.

-I'm now going to go to a vegetable fiesta.

0:31:060:31:10

I'm going to make a vegetable tarte Tatin.

0:31:100:31:14

I can't wait to see yours come out.

0:31:140:31:16

I know yours is going to be miles better than

0:31:160:31:18

when I had a feeble attempt at this.

0:31:180:31:20

Well, I'm not sure about that.

0:31:200:31:22

I think the idea of this is that when you've got lots of

0:31:220:31:25

pre-cooked veg left over, use those to make it - roast veg is fantastic.

0:31:250:31:29

-Yeah.

-Or if you've got raw veg you can cook them to order.

0:31:290:31:31

So what I'm going to do first of all is, into the pan we put some butter.

0:31:310:31:35

I've got rapeseed oil to go in as well - just a tad.

0:31:360:31:39

And then, I've got here some cumin seeds,

0:31:390:31:42

which I think work tremendously well.

0:31:420:31:44

And then...

0:31:440:31:45

..a bit of crushed garlic.

0:31:460:31:48

So just crush that up.

0:31:480:31:50

And any of these things, if you say, "I don't really like 'em,"

0:31:500:31:53

well, don't put 'em in. You know, it's up to you.

0:31:530:31:55

But I think this just is a nice little mix here.

0:31:550:31:57

It's surprising how sweet root vegetables are actually

0:31:570:32:00

when they're roasted and cooked through.

0:32:000:32:02

It is, but this helps to complement it and we will serve a little

0:32:020:32:04

dressing with it with a bit of vinegar as well, so that'll help.

0:32:040:32:07

That's fantastic. This is a little bit of sherry vinegar -

0:32:070:32:10

take it away from the heat, just put it in there.

0:32:100:32:12

We've got these wonderful beetroots...

0:32:180:32:20

They're probably going to take about half an hour to cook, are those.

0:32:220:32:26

And then sugar - not too much sugar.

0:32:260:32:28

And then if you've got a leek,

0:32:290:32:30

stick that in the oven for about 30 minutes - just a nice gentle heat.

0:32:300:32:34

And I've got some here.

0:32:340:32:36

But just look at those, they look fantastic.

0:32:360:32:38

-Now you didn't peel those, did you?

-No, left the skin on.

0:32:380:32:41

Is that cos the skin's so thin when they're that small?

0:32:410:32:43

-Because they're baby ones.

-Yeah.

-They're little ones. Then I need some puff pastry.

0:32:430:32:47

Now, there are lots of schools of thought.

0:32:470:32:49

It takes a long time to make puff pastry, it is a big skill -

0:32:490:32:52

you can buy some. Some are better than others.

0:32:520:32:56

So just do a bit of research and find out what works for you.

0:32:560:32:59

What you're saying is, don't feel guilty if you buy it.

0:32:590:33:01

I agree. It's a very quick dish to put together.

0:33:010:33:05

So, if you hold this table so it doesn't rock too much,

0:33:050:33:07

so I don't feel seasick - like you're back on the boat, Alan.

0:33:070:33:10

We don't want that to happen, do we, eh? So, nice and thin.

0:33:100:33:14

Now, we want puff pastry cos of its crispness -

0:33:140:33:16

what I don't want is it to rise too much,

0:33:160:33:19

cos when you turn it over to serve it, it sort of looks odd,

0:33:190:33:23

and that's not what we're looking for in this particular instance.

0:33:230:33:28

I'm going to use this pan - it's about a 10 inch, this pan.

0:33:280:33:30

And it's better, actually,

0:33:300:33:32

if you have a little bit more pastry than you actually need. So that...

0:33:320:33:36

Fantastic, great.

0:33:380:33:40

I'm just going to leave it here for one second. OK.

0:33:400:33:43

So this is the vegetable version of the classic

0:33:430:33:46

tarte Tatin which is normally apples or sometimes pears.

0:33:460:33:50

Absolutely right, yeah.

0:33:500:33:52

And in real terms, it's not really a Tatin

0:33:520:33:54

but it's the nearest thing to it,

0:33:540:33:56

and it gives everybody an idea as to what it is.

0:33:560:33:59

So look, please...

0:33:590:34:00

This is where I'm learning because when I tried to make this,

0:34:000:34:03

it did look like a little bit of a road accident when I turned it out.

0:34:030:34:06

Well, please, be careful at this stage

0:34:060:34:08

because this caramel is very hot.

0:34:080:34:11

-Yeah.

-And it can cause all kinds of problems.

0:34:110:34:14

Right, so we've got the basis now ready to go.

0:34:140:34:17

So, take boiled onions - these are lovely,

0:34:170:34:19

they're sort of not overcooked,

0:34:190:34:20

they're just nicely undercooked but not...

0:34:200:34:23

How long do you cook them for roughly?

0:34:230:34:25

Well, it depends on the size - about 15 minutes, I would think these.

0:34:250:34:28

-Yeah.

-Just gently boil.

0:34:280:34:30

And then we've got these lovely carrots.

0:34:300:34:32

And all I'm just going to do is cut them in half.

0:34:320:34:35

-So you've already cooked them.

-These are already cooked.

0:34:350:34:37

-As I say, this could be a leftover dish.

-Yeah.

0:34:370:34:40

So then we take these and we just put them like that.

0:34:400:34:44

I'm trying to make a sort of a little pattern but I don't want it

0:34:440:34:47

-to be too patternified, if you know what I mean.

-Rustic!

0:34:470:34:50

-Oh, is that what I'm saying, is it?

-Yeah.

0:34:500:34:52

That's lovely. Then we've got these...

0:34:520:34:54

You're not doing a smiley face or anything? What is that?

0:34:540:34:56

-No, absolutely not.

-Just checking.

0:34:560:34:58

-We've got peppers here.

-Yeah.

-So we now put those, fold those - comme ca.

0:34:580:35:03

These are lovely - I do love these roast peppers.

0:35:040:35:07

So those go in there.

0:35:070:35:08

And the nice thing about this dish is I think it's got plenty of colour.

0:35:080:35:11

You haven't taken the skins off your peppers either.

0:35:110:35:14

-No, I know, life's too short.

-No, I like taking the skins off.

0:35:140:35:17

-I don't know why I do.

-Well, neither do I.

0:35:170:35:18

It appeals to something a bit weird in me, but I always take the skins off.

0:35:180:35:22

I can understand that, I can see that that would take...

0:35:220:35:24

-Just get on with it.

-OK-cokey there.

0:35:240:35:27

-And then we need to just put these onions in there.

-I am learning from how you're doing this.

0:35:270:35:30

Yeah, well, wait till you...

0:35:300:35:32

When mine turned out, I tried to do this but when you turn it out...

0:35:320:35:36

I haven't turned mine out yet.

0:35:360:35:38

So let's not just push our luck.

0:35:380:35:40

OK, so bring this here so we can see it.

0:35:400:35:42

The one thing I don't want it to do, I don't want it to rise high.

0:35:480:35:51

So, take a fork and dock it.

0:35:510:35:55

And that'll stop it rising too much

0:35:560:35:58

but it'll still give us a lovely crispness.

0:35:580:36:01

And hopefully, with the liquor in the bottom there,

0:36:010:36:03

which will soak into it, that'll be fantastic.

0:36:030:36:06

Now, the big problem is...

0:36:060:36:07

-..I ain't got an oven here.

-No, even I can't magic up an oven.

0:36:080:36:12

I suspect you could if you tried.

0:36:120:36:14

So what I'm going to do, I'm going to quickly nip off.

0:36:140:36:16

I've got one in the oven there, so I'm going to go and get that

0:36:160:36:19

-and bring it up, all right?

-All right.

0:36:190:36:21

Alan, have you ever cooked anything like this?

0:36:230:36:25

No, I'm not a vegetable cooking person -

0:36:250:36:28

-I normally like my seafood.

-I was going to imagine, Alan,

0:36:280:36:31

that you live on a diet of fish, fish, crab, crab, lobster.

0:36:310:36:34

-It's fairly much like that, yeah.

-You haven't grown gills yet.

0:36:340:36:38

No, I like me crab and seafood and meats and that.

0:36:390:36:41

Really looking forward to trying this, it'll be really interesting - looks good.

0:36:410:36:45

I'm going to ask you a rather rude question, can you actually cook?

0:36:450:36:48

Yeah, I'm a bit of a dab hand in the kitchen.

0:36:480:36:50

-You are? Well, that's good.

-I do most of the cooking at home.

-You do?

0:36:500:36:53

-Yeah.

-Oh, well, excuse me for being patronising, then.

0:36:530:36:56

That's put me in my place. What about you, Guy?

0:36:560:36:58

I mean, you grow all these vegetables.

0:36:580:37:01

Do you actually do the cooking?

0:37:010:37:02

Oh, I do do the cooking on the whole at home, yeah.

0:37:020:37:05

Good, so I've got two men who are new-age men.

0:37:050:37:08

Guy, have you cooked this?

0:37:080:37:09

I've never made a tarte Tatin, no. It looks good.

0:37:090:37:12

-Yeah.

-It always seems a bit of waste to do so much to 'em, really.

0:37:120:37:15

I just like to eat 'em as they are.

0:37:150:37:17

You say that and see how it goes down.

0:37:170:37:19

Well, perhaps I should try it first.

0:37:190:37:21

Anyway, well, let's wait for the tart.

0:37:210:37:24

Now this is looking quite good, look - it hasn't risen too much.

0:37:240:37:27

It's got a lovely colour to it. You need to let it stand.

0:37:270:37:30

So it actually did stand for five minutes down in the kitchen to set,

0:37:300:37:33

but you also need it to be slightly warm so that it'll tip out,

0:37:330:37:36

otherwise it might stick in the bottom.

0:37:360:37:38

So let me put that there.

0:37:380:37:40

Whilst that's just sitting there we're going to make a little

0:37:400:37:43

dressing for this and that's really quite simple.

0:37:430:37:45

I just want to do a bit of radish - a lovely colour.

0:37:450:37:48

Just dice 'em, chop 'em up.

0:37:500:37:51

There's a sort of a zinginess about these that go nicely

0:37:520:37:55

-with the sweetness of the tart that we've actually done.

-Mm.

0:37:550:37:59

And a bit of chopped shallot as well - nice and finely.

0:37:590:38:02

-So, shallots and radishes.

-Yeah.

0:38:020:38:06

Some mustard here.

0:38:060:38:08

And your mange tout that you carefully picked the ends off.

0:38:080:38:11

Yeah, indeed. Absolutely, yeah, just pick the stalk end off.

0:38:110:38:16

-Yeah, very good therapy.

-A bit of white wine vinegar.

0:38:160:38:21

And then a nice bit of oil in there -

0:38:210:38:24

I've got rapeseed oil again, that's fine.

0:38:240:38:28

-Salt.

-Yeah.

0:38:280:38:30

Pepper.

0:38:300:38:32

-I'm going to take a bit of that out now and put it in here.

-Yeah.

0:38:320:38:36

That's lovely.

0:38:360:38:38

And then I'm just going to chop a bit of fresh parsley.

0:38:380:38:41

I love parsley.

0:38:410:38:43

I love curly parsley - just chop it up, freshly, at the last minute.

0:38:430:38:47

-It's got more flavour then, hasn't it?

-Just got more flavour, absolutely.

0:38:470:38:50

I think it's so vastly underrated.

0:38:500:38:51

We get all these wonderful herbs these days, we've forgotten

0:38:510:38:54

about the one we always used to use that was the only one about.

0:38:540:38:57

And it's also got a great colour.

0:38:570:39:00

-Right, now I'm, you may think I'm stalling now, which I am.

-Yeah.

0:39:000:39:04

Cos I'm very nervous that this tart will not come out.

0:39:040:39:06

-I want to see your turning-out technique.

-Ah!

0:39:060:39:09

-Because do you put...?

-Yes, yeah.

0:39:090:39:11

-You put the plate over it...

-Yeah.

-..and flip it.

0:39:110:39:13

Yeah. What we really need now is a roll on the drums, cos we're not

0:39:130:39:17

actually going to put that plate on there.

0:39:170:39:19

You know how sometimes you wish you'd never said things, don't you, eh?

0:39:190:39:22

-Come on.

-Right, OK. So this goes...

0:39:220:39:25

-on top here.

-Oh, you're doing it on a board.

0:39:250:39:28

-This has never been done...in public.

-I always do it on a plate.

0:39:280:39:31

Look at this wonderful audience we've got here.

0:39:310:39:33

And, er... Right, you ready?

0:39:330:39:37

One, two, three, go.

0:39:370:39:39

-Oh.

-Whoa!

0:39:390:39:42

Oh, just listen to 'em behind me. Talk about encouragement.

0:39:420:39:45

Hallelujah! APPLAUSE

0:39:470:39:49

Oh, grand. Thank you very much, sir.

0:39:490:39:53

-Very good.

-So, we just put our salad on here.

0:39:530:39:57

That looks lovely.

0:39:580:39:59

It's just the green of this, just makes a really nice contrast.

0:39:590:40:03

And it's a help-yourself dish.

0:40:030:40:05

We've got the dressing here - just put a little bit in the middle.

0:40:050:40:09

So people can help themselves.

0:40:110:40:14

And you may think that I'd gone to the kitchen to sort everything out

0:40:140:40:19

but I did hear the conversation that went on over here whilst I was away.

0:40:190:40:22

-So there you are, sir, there's a carrot...

-A very nice carrot.

0:40:220:40:25

..on its own with nothing else. It looks a good carrot.

0:40:250:40:28

It would be better if it was raw, but thank you.

0:40:280:40:30

LAUGHTER But look, there you have it -

0:40:300:40:34

vegetable tarte Tatin with a radish dressing

0:40:340:40:36

and a little salad on the side. APPLAUSE

0:40:360:40:39

OK, Duchess, so what do you actually want to taste?

0:40:520:40:54

Do you want some beetroot, some carrots, some onion?

0:40:540:40:57

I want to start with beetroot cos it matches my hair.

0:40:570:40:59

There's a little piece there, just try that - it's not too hot.

0:40:590:41:02

OK. What do you think?

0:41:020:41:04

Very good.

0:41:080:41:09

-Yum.

-Is it better than you thought? It's not too sweet, is it?

0:41:110:41:14

No, it's not too sweet - it's not too sweet at all.

0:41:140:41:17

-The proof of the pudding, of course, is over here, innit?

-Mm.

0:41:170:41:20

Come in, you two, let's have a... You can help yourselves.

0:41:200:41:22

-It looks lovely, Brian.

-Thank you.

0:41:220:41:24

-I think Alan likes it.

-Oh, that's good.

0:41:280:41:30

I'm not a big vegetable man but the roast peppers -

0:41:300:41:33

fantastic flavour in that, beautiful.

0:41:330:41:36

OK, Guy, moment of truth. Onions, carrots there.

0:41:360:41:39

If you've got to cook 'em, you've done a pretty good job.

0:41:390:41:42

-LAUGHTER

-Just go with it, Brian.

0:41:420:41:45

Ladies, come in and be courageous - tell us if you like it.

0:41:450:41:48

Come in here. You come round, sir.

0:41:480:41:51

It's a wonderful feast of fresh vegetables, with cumin and garlic.

0:41:510:41:55

Tell us what you think of it.

0:41:560:41:58

-Whoop.

-That is really good. Sorry, Guy, it's really good.

0:41:580:42:02

-Thank you.

-She works in accounts.

0:42:020:42:05

LAUGHTER What do you think, darling?

0:42:050:42:08

I would say that the vegetables are the star of the show there, Brian.

0:42:080:42:11

BRIAN: Guess who she works for?

0:42:110:42:13

Did you hear that? Guess who she works for?

0:42:130:42:16

OK, Janet. Final word, tell us what you think, dear.

0:42:160:42:18

Right.

0:42:180:42:19

It pains me to say it...

0:42:230:42:24

..but it's better than my one.

0:42:250:42:27

-I think I'm going to burst into tears.

-Don't milk it.

0:42:270:42:30

Mm.

0:42:320:42:33

-Well, Brian, that was a success.

-Do you think?

0:42:440:42:47

Yeah, because people think vegetarian food is stodgy and dull

0:42:470:42:52

and that is a fantastically beautiful, vibrant dish.

0:42:520:42:56

I like good vegetables and I think whether that's leftovers or

0:42:560:42:59

just a light lunch with that bit of salad, that's fantastic.

0:42:590:43:03

And not only that, A Taste of Britain in Devon...

0:43:030:43:06

-..that says it all.

-Did the business.

0:43:090:43:12

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