Dorset A Taste of Britain


Dorset

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He's Brian Turner...

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..and she's Janet Street-Porter.

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I'm passionate about walking -

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these feet have taken me the length and breadth of Great Britain.

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I have been privileged to cook all round the world,

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but it's Britain that I love -

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fabulous produce, great ingredients, right here on the doorstep.

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We are joining forces to explore Britain's rich heritage...

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..and the landscape that has given us such wonderful produce.

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He's in charge of the food...

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..and guess what? She's in charge of everything else.

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-This is...

-..a Taste of Britain.

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Today we've come to beautiful Dorset.

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Nestled in the south of Britain,

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it's a county of contrasts

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offering the very best of countryside -

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and coastline.

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I'll be searching for the naked truth

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on one of the most famous men in the country...

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of the chalk variety, that is.

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Now, George, he's got a very small brain area -

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but do you think his power lies in another part of his anatomy?

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I think all his strength has gone somewhere else, yes.

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We'll also be heading to the hills to meet some Dorset goats.

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Oh, this is vertical!

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-Come on, give me your hand. Come on!

-No!

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Along the way, we'll be hunting for the perfect ingredient

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for a celebratory dish that sums the essence of Dorset's rich larder.

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Is everybody ready?

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That's if Janet ever stops playing with the produce.

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SHE LAUGHS

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Right, the dog's eaten them all!

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Brian, I've brought you here for a fantastic view

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out over the rolling hills of Dorset, with beautiful little villages.

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And down there is Dorchester.

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Near there is fabulous Apple Hampton House, with lovely gardens,

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and way over there is Christchurch on the beautiful estuary.

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It's a lovely part of the world down there.

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I'm told there's a fabulous restaurant called the Jetty

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that I would really like to go and see.

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And there's also a couple of guys who are making charcuterie

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here in Dorset with local produce.

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I think that's brilliant.

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And also a guy who breeds goats.

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Fantastic terrain here for goats.

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Yep. Very hilly, very good for walking.

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And I'm off for a date with a giant!

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I can't think of a better way

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to begin sampling the real taste of Dorset

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than with a trip to one of the many small independent producers

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in this area.

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Based close to the fertile Purbeck region,

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the Dorset Charcuterie Company has a great reputation

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for producing high quality dried meats.

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They butcher, cure, season and mature all their products

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from start to finish.

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And its owner, Lee Moreton, is going to give us a step-by-step crash course.

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-Morning.

-Morning, Lee. How you doing, all right?

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-Hello, good to meet you. Welcome.

-Hi. Wow, I feel like I'm in Italy!

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-Fantastic.

-And not in Dorset!

-With a bit of a Dorset twist, indeed.

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So, come through and I'll show you around.

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-Perfect!

-Thank you very much.

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Lee has his very own butchery on-site,

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where he prepares his amazing range of dried meats.

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So this is our fridge, where all of our meat is hung.

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Today we're going to show you

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-how to make a Parma-style ham on the bone.

-Right.

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If you want to put an apron on,

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just so that we don't get mucky.

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And keep the pig fairly clean as well, ideally.

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Quite right, too.

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If you can just touch the hook, Brian, just so it pops off...

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Do you want to grab my hook, mate?

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All right. Have you got it?

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-I've got it, I've got it, yeah...

-What are you doing?!

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-I've got it!

-There you go.

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-It's heavier than I thought, is this.

-It is...

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Aah! Don't whack me with that foot!

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Fantastic.

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So, we're going to start by removing the leg.

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And you are going to make a nice straight cut, straight through.

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Like that.

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You have butchered before, haven't you?

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-Of course, sir!

-Perfect.

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No, no, not there!

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No, that's fine. Carry on.

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SHE LAUGHS

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-That'll do.

-Sorry.

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Don't encourage him, look.

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Perfect. So we're going to then just make a little cut through...

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Lee, were you a butcher before you started this?

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Yes, I have been a butcher for about eight years, nine years now.

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I was a landscape gardener beforehand, would you believe it?

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-Which is the normal thing to do, is it not?

-Indeed, yeah.

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Probably comes in very handy.

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-Easy to go from topiary to butchery.

-Indeed.

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OK, so what we are going to now do is prepare this for salting.

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OK?

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As what you want is a nice shape to the ham,

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as you can imagine, once it's dried.

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So, Lee, does all your meat come from the local area?

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Indeed. We're very hot on sourcing our meat locally,

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so everything that we have is minimum free-range, or wild,

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-so we are very hot...

-So it really comes from within 20 or 30 miles.

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Indeed.

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Now, Lee, can I ask you something else?

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I mean, whenever we go to the Continent,

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we go mad for Italian and Spanish ham,

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for Serrano ham and Parma ham -

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but there's no reason why the hams that you are making here,

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-aren't just as fantastic?

-Not at all.

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But I think that the most important bit in any charcuterie

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is obviously the meat, so if you start with pretty good meat,

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you're going to finish with something pretty good anyway.

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-Sure.

-And I think there is no reason why we can't beat

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the French, Italians and Spanish at their own game.

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-Take those gold medals!

-Exactly.

-We're going to do it!

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Lee, to get a ham of really high quality, how long do you hang it for?

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It's years, isn't it?

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It is - a minimum of a year, really.

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You can cut into a ham after six months,

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but I think that the whole point of it

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is that you get that amazing flavour that develops on the bone -

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that cheesy, musty, farty smell, if you would,

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-that is, you know, a good quality...

-A farty smell?

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Yeah, it's got that, you know, cheesy "je ne sais quoi" about it,

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-and I think that comes with age.

-It's what we call a ripeness.

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-Ripeness, that's the one.

-So how does that look now, Chef?

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Is that the shape you are looking for?

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That looks absolutely perfect.

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I'm pretty happy with that.

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The next step in producing perfect Parma-style ham

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is to cover the legs in salt to start the drying process.

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Is this a special salt?

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No, it's sea salt.

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It's an unprocessed salt,

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so nothing that's got any anti-caking agents,

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because that will interfere with the cure.

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So, it's about that much, till it's covered.

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So, if you just chuck it on.

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Now, if you just want to work that salt.

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Is it like giving someone a massage?

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It is just like that.

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-All right.

-OK, so slowly, with love.

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-So we want to get...

-No, Lee!

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Really! How long do you have to rub this stuff in for?!

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A little bit longer.

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You want to get into all the little orifices, if you can.

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This salting process is there, obviously, to impart some flavour

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but also to kill the bacteria, which then in turn preserves it.

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And then this is going to be left in the fridge,

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so that the salt can draw the water out, kill any bacteria,

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and start to dry this, OK? And once we've done that...

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-Yep.

-..we can go and try some of our charcuterie that we make.

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That sounds fantastic. We must have a taste -

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-and can I make a little pickle to go with it?

-Perfect.

-Wonderful.

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-Sounds almost like a lunch, I'd say.

-Lunch!

-Let's do it.

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Fantastic! Let's go!

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Once they've spent a couple of weeks in the fridge,

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the legs are hung in a temperature-controlled environment

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for at least a year.

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But we haven't got that long to wait,

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so Lee's laid out a mouthwatering platter

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of the very best in charcuterie.

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Before we tuck in, though, I'm going to create the perfect accompaniment.

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This looks fantastic here, I tell you what -

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we are so privileged. But I'm going to cheat a little bit,

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I'm just going to do a little job, and just make a little pickle,

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a sweet pickle,

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to go with this wonderful stuff you've got over there.

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I've got the pan on over here,

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and I've just got these lovely ingredients here.

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And all you really need to do is just marinade those all together.

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We've got white wine vinegar,

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we've got some water,

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and 12 peppercorns.

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-Sugar.

-Yep.

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That goes in there.

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Now chilli flakes is really up to you,

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-how many you really want to use.

-I like it with a bit of a kick.

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Yeah, well, not everybody does.

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Cloves, we put a couple in there.

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Star anise - we'll just give it a bit of a bash,

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because you are not going to leave it too long.

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And a squeeze of lemon juice.

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This is a slightly sweet pickle -

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that lemon juice will counteract it a little bit.

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And all I am going to do then,

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I'm going to marinade in that some radishes and some shallots.

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I'm going to chop these up, but that just looks fantastic.

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Lee, show us what you are going do to with that.

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It's time to crack it open, I think, now.

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So I am going to take that fat off here...

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Wow, look at that. It's like Christmas!

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-Come on, Janet.

-What am I doing? Hang on...

-You're watching.

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-I'm just going to prepare it for you.

-Prepare it for me?

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Whoops - yeah. And then you're going to have a go. OK?

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How many years did you train to be a butcher?

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-Er, about ten... About ten.

-Ten years.

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Lee, ten years, and I've got ten seconds.

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That's fine, it's OK.

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The trick is just to keep the knife flat

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and let it glide through the meat. OK?

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We want it nice and thin, and ideally we do not want to ruin this,

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if we can. This is our best ham that we have, I think.

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It's a two-year-old Mangalitza.

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You know what? If you look at me, you're going to put me off.

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Well, I won't look at you!

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-I'll close my eyes, then.

-No, just go and stir your pot.

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You want someone to hold... Oh, for goodness' sake!

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OK, so nice and gentle.

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Back and forward.

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You got to wiggle the hips. Go on. Get in there.

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That's it.

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-That's going for a steak, there...

-Oh stop it!

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-Whoa, that's a gammon! Anyone for gammon?

-Stop it!

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Do you want pineapple on that?

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Right we'll let you carry on with that, you're doing a great job.

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-Right, how's your pickle coming on?

-Right we've got muslin here.

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I'm just going to strain out all those bits and pieces.

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I just want the actual pickling juice.

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That's all I really want now, which is fine.

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And you leave it in there to cool down.

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So I've cut the radishes into thin strips...

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-So you don't want to cook it?

-No, no, I just want to marinade it

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and get that lovely flavour.

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And some shallots, just cut them across there.

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-OK, right, there - that's your lot. Goes into there.

-Yeah.

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Ten minutes in here, no more. You really want to keep it crunchy.

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You just want to get a bit of flavour in there.

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So we put that in there.

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I have to say I do feel a bit of a fraud,

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cos it's very simple to do, is this.

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A bit of chopped parsley, we need.

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Have a quick taste.

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Oh!

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That is really good.

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A bit more salt, OK... Don't sound so surprised!

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No, because it is such a few ingredients.

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We just finish off this seasoning,

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and we leave it to sit for about half an hour.

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And it looks, then, just like that.

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It takes on that lovely colour. Have a taste of that.

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Go on, there you go. See what you think.

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It's crunchy, and sweet and sour all in one.

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This just looks brilliant - so many different things on there.

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-Tell us what you've actually got.

-So we have got our Kimmeridge ham,

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we've got our Dorset truffle lomo, so a loin of pork

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and that's just with a little bit of truffle oil

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and local truffle grated into it.

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We've got our Dorset air-dried beef,

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and then we've got our two-year-old ham on the bone,

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that Janet's very expertly sliced.

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The only thing with it - it doesn't last very long,

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so we'll have to eat it fairly quickly.

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I don't think I will have a problem with that.

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So, you should start with the ham, I think.

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I love the smell of it.

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It's quite pungent.

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So much meat you eat now, has got no guts to it at all.

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Indeed.

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Lovely balance of salt in there.

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Well, two years ago I went to the salami capital of Italy, Norcia,

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and I thought that I would never experience anything like that

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in England, but Lee...

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Fantastic, thank you very much.

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-Kind words.

-It's happening in Dorset.

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Thank you very much, Brian - amazing pickle.

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Well, that was really tasty, was it not?

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And look - I got a bit of chorizo.

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I might just be able to use that when I cook.

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But anyway, I'm going down to see a great chef down at the seaside,

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-at the Jetty.

-I'm going to see a man who's not going to answer back.

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Bless him!

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I've got a date with the most famous man in Dorset,

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who stands head and shoulders above the rest.

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But I like to keep my men waiting,

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so first I'm heading into the village, Cerne Abbas, below.

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It originally grew around a great Benedictine Abbey,

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founded in AD 987,

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that was destroyed by Henry VIII in the 16th century.

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All that's left today are the former guest lodge and gatehouse,

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where I'm meeting local historian George Mortimer.

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What's the story of Cerne Abbas?

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How did it get its name?

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-The river is called the Cerne...

-Yes.

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..and the Abbas would have been added

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after the abbey was founded in 987.

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It was a Benedictine monastery,

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and it would have been in that ground over there -

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but it all disappeared after 1539 with the Dissolution,

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and literally, within 50 years, there was nothing to be seen.

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-So Henry VIII razed the whole thing to the ground...

-He did indeed.

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-..except the gate.

-Except the gate, that was saved.

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And, over to your left, the only other part that survives

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is the guesthouse, which was built in about 1460, 1470,

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which is where the guests for the abbey would have stayed overnight.

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So we are very lucky to have just those two pieces still surviving.

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Well, it's a very nice guesthouse, if you don't mind me...

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It's very comfortable, very pleasant.

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It's a lovely piece of architecture, actually.

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Cerne Abbas is also famous for its successful breweries,

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that exported to the Americas as early as the 1800s.

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I'd love to pop in for a pint,

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but I think I've kept my date waiting long enough.

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So, time to meet the man in person.

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Size isn't everything, they say,

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but the Cerne Abbas Giant stands proudly

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as Britain's largest chalk figure.

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Right. So here we are, alongside his head.

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Yes, indeed.

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Er, not a very large brain area... HE CHUCKLES

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..but I would suspect his power lies in another part of his anatomy.

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It does actually, yes.

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From head to toe he is about 180 feet,

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but the part you are talking about is about 30 feet of it -

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so, yes, in proportion, yes...

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So that's about, what? Six to one.

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THEY LAUGH

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Perhaps that's where all his strength has gone!

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Now, do you think the Giant is old or relatively new?

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There are two basic schools of thought.

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One, that it goes back to British or Roman times,

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based on Hercules, which was one of the Roman gods.

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And the other one is that it's more recent,

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perhaps done in the 17th century as a lampoon of Oliver Cromwell,

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because the owner of the land at the time hated Cromwell ever so much,

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so it's suggested he did this.

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But there is no written history of this thing surviving until 1694,

0:15:310:15:35

and that's the first known historical reference,

0:15:350:15:38

and it is in the church accounts,

0:15:380:15:39

where they paid three shillings to "repair ye Giant".

0:15:390:15:42

-"Ye Giant"?!

-"Ye Giant"!

0:15:420:15:44

And that's it, three shillings to "repair ye Giant".

0:15:440:15:47

So, down there on the site of the abbey

0:15:470:15:49

there could be a load of monks reading the scriptures...

0:15:490:15:51

-Yep, that's right...

-..praying to God, renouncing sex,

0:15:510:15:54

and up here in the hillside, a big fertility symbol...

0:15:540:15:58

Well, yes - it seems very unlikely,

0:15:580:16:00

but that's just one of the arguments.

0:16:000:16:02

All we can say is, whoever did it, it's a lot of work to do it.

0:16:020:16:06

There is myth that if a lady is looking to become pregnant,

0:16:060:16:09

they can go and sort of bed themselves down for the night

0:16:090:16:11

further on down there, on his manhood, and erm...

0:16:110:16:14

Do women do that?!

0:16:140:16:16

Yes - oh, yes! It has been known, has been known...

0:16:160:16:19

-But it's a one in two slope!

-Yes, it is.

0:16:190:16:22

I think you'd choose your weather better as well.

0:16:220:16:24

-George, thank you.

-My pleasure.

0:16:240:16:26

I can't wait to go and tell Brian about this.

0:16:260:16:29

HE CHUCKLES

0:16:290:16:31

-I hope he won't feel threatened.

-Yes!

0:16:310:16:34

I'm still on the lookout for more tasty ingredients

0:16:360:16:39

to use in our celebratory cook.

0:16:390:16:41

As well as thousands of acres of arable farmland,

0:16:420:16:45

Dorset's also blessed with almost 100 miles of coastline.

0:16:450:16:49

A local chef making the most of the ocean's rich variety of produce

0:16:510:16:54

is ex-trawlerman Alex Aitken at the Jetty.

0:16:540:16:58

His restaurant is set right at the water's edge.

0:16:590:17:02

And I've asked him to cook us a dish

0:17:040:17:05

to showcase some of the local seaside delicacies.

0:17:050:17:09

-Morning, Alex.

-Good morning, Brian.

0:17:090:17:11

So what are you going to cook for us, Chef?

0:17:110:17:13

Well, we've got these wonderful ingredients locally on our doorstep.

0:17:130:17:16

We get lots of brown crab landed here,

0:17:160:17:18

so I am going to do a Mudeford crab croquette,

0:17:180:17:20

and I done a slight twist on it - I've got a brown crab butter

0:17:200:17:24

that runs through the middle of the croquette.

0:17:240:17:26

On top of that we've got the marsh samphire, which is brilliant.

0:17:260:17:30

But, what a lot of people don't use, which we get round here,

0:17:300:17:33

-is the rock samphire.

-Do you collect it yourself?

0:17:330:17:35

I collect it myself. This one I went out this morning and collected.

0:17:350:17:38

And it does literally grow on rocks -

0:17:380:17:40

and it tastes like carrot.

0:17:400:17:42

And it is a member of the carrot family, although it's green.

0:17:420:17:46

-We've got our dry potato mash...

-Yep.

0:17:460:17:48

-..and I want to put some parsley into there.

-Yep.

0:17:480:17:53

And then just mash that parsley up.

0:17:530:17:56

Then what I want to mix into there is the white crab meat,

0:17:560:18:00

and that's got that nice, iron-y crab flavour -

0:18:000:18:05

but not as strong as the brown crab meat.

0:18:050:18:08

I'll put a little bit of seasoning in there, but not too much,

0:18:080:18:11

because I find that there is quite a lot salt flavouring

0:18:110:18:13

in the actual crab that we put in there.

0:18:130:18:15

And we'll be using samphire in the dish as well,

0:18:150:18:17

so samphire's got that saltiness from the sea.

0:18:170:18:20

Right, and now it's the slightly messy bit

0:18:200:18:22

where we are going to shape these croquettes.

0:18:220:18:24

So I put a little bit of flour on my hands,

0:18:240:18:26

and then...into the middle of there.

0:18:260:18:30

The brown crab meat -

0:18:300:18:31

what I've done here is already mixed that in with some butter.

0:18:310:18:35

These are the crab butter...

0:18:350:18:37

-Oh, they are like pellets, aren't they?

-They're like pellets.

0:18:370:18:39

What we've done is we've frozen that

0:18:390:18:41

so that we can handle it to make the croquettes.

0:18:410:18:43

We just wrap that with the potato,

0:18:430:18:46

so that pellet or lozenge of crab meat butter...

0:18:460:18:50

So when you actually deep-fry that, will it...?

0:18:500:18:53

It will soften, it will flavour,

0:18:530:18:56

and really brown in the middle, almost like a lovely butter -

0:18:560:19:00

like a Kiev.

0:19:000:19:02

I can feel my little saliva glands just working extra hard here.

0:19:020:19:06

So, the traditional ingredients to do our croquettes.

0:19:060:19:11

-So, it's...

-So you've got flour, mixed egg and...

0:19:110:19:15

..breadcrumbs. So, flour, egg wash...

0:19:150:19:18

So you are quite lucky around here - you do get some wonderful fish.

0:19:180:19:22

What's fantastic at the moment?

0:19:220:19:24

At the moment, it's the flat fish.

0:19:240:19:25

Dover sole, plaice... We're getting some lovely little turbot as well.

0:19:250:19:28

And a bit later on we will get red mullet, which will be really nice.

0:19:280:19:31

Oh, you are going to do it twice?

0:19:310:19:32

I'm going to do it twice, just double panne, just to make sure.

0:19:320:19:36

And how do you do for meat in this part of the world, is it local?

0:19:360:19:39

Meat - where possible, local.

0:19:390:19:40

The other day we did a hogget.

0:19:400:19:42

and it was slightly gamey - almost a goaty feeling to it.

0:19:420:19:46

That's actually quite good, is that,

0:19:460:19:48

because I am actually going to cook a celebration meal

0:19:480:19:51

that has a representation in this particular part of the world -

0:19:510:19:53

-I think goat is a good idea.

-A very good idea.

0:19:530:19:56

Right, these croquettes I'm just going to drop into the fryer.

0:19:560:19:58

And how long would you actually leave them in there for?

0:19:580:20:01

-They want to be in there about five or six minutes.

-OK.

0:20:010:20:03

And the sauce I like to serve with this -

0:20:030:20:06

I like to call it a warm tartare sauce.

0:20:060:20:08

So what I've got on here

0:20:080:20:10

is just a white wine reduced with a little bit of white wine vinegar,

0:20:100:20:13

and in there I'm going to put some shallots.

0:20:130:20:16

And they're all looking good.

0:20:170:20:19

Let me just lift those croquettes out for a minute.

0:20:190:20:23

And then we're just going to add cream,

0:20:230:20:25

and then I'm just going to put in a little bit of butter.

0:20:250:20:28

-Yep.

-So, the butter in cold.

0:20:280:20:30

I just love the way you whisk that butter in.

0:20:320:20:34

It's now changing colour, it's got a deep golden colour

0:20:340:20:37

-and it's got a shine.

-Exactly - you can see the richness in that sauce.

0:20:370:20:41

Exactly, you're right.

0:20:410:20:43

And now that butter is all whisked in, in go my...

0:20:430:20:46

..ready-chopped gherkins. I want all of those in there.

0:20:480:20:51

And I've noticed you've got midget gherkins and midget capers,

0:20:510:20:54

so the finer, the smaller, the better they are. Yes?

0:20:540:20:57

Exactly. The small ones are really delicious.

0:20:570:20:59

I wasn't really going to tell you this, Chef,

0:20:590:21:01

but my wonderful colleague Janet Street-Porter

0:21:010:21:04

doesn't like cream and doesn't like butter!

0:21:040:21:08

So, it'll be interesting to see how she reacts to this.

0:21:080:21:10

Right, what I'm going to do now is,

0:21:100:21:12

to bring the samphire to temperature,

0:21:120:21:15

-is drop them in the sauce as well.

-Yeah.

0:21:150:21:18

Right, we're now ready.

0:21:190:21:22

Grab my croquettes...

0:21:270:21:28

So, there we are, Brian.

0:21:320:21:34

Mudeford crab croquettes

0:21:340:21:36

on rock and marsh samphire with a warm tartare source.

0:21:360:21:40

That looks fantastic. That is definitely my kind of dish.

0:21:450:21:48

I'm not sure about my mate, but we'll see.

0:21:480:21:52

Well, let's hope she enjoys it.

0:21:520:21:54

It may contain a dollop of cream or two...

0:21:550:21:59

but with Alex's clever combination of local seaside flavours,

0:21:590:22:02

this is definitely a dish fit for a duchess.

0:22:020:22:05

-Hi, guys.

-Hi.

0:22:110:22:14

So there we are.

0:22:140:22:15

Thank you.

0:22:150:22:16

-SHE GASPS

-Your kind of dish, girl?

0:22:190:22:21

It's SO my kind of dish.

0:22:210:22:23

-Samphire I adore.

-Yeah.

0:22:240:22:26

Crab, absolutely.

0:22:260:22:30

And it's nice, as you've got rock AND marsh samphire in there.

0:22:300:22:33

Yes.

0:22:330:22:35

Oh, God, I can hardly speak, I'm enjoying it so much.

0:22:410:22:45

It's quite a rich dish.

0:22:450:22:47

Yeah!

0:22:470:22:49

But...

0:22:490:22:51

..the creamy sauce balances out the crab cakes,

0:22:530:22:56

cos they can be quite dry.

0:22:560:22:58

I am amazed to hear to hear you say that,

0:22:580:23:01

that you like the creamy sauce.

0:23:010:23:03

I do.

0:23:030:23:05

In moderation.

0:23:050:23:06

In the right circumstances, under the right conditions.

0:23:060:23:10

It's delicious.

0:23:100:23:11

Oh, I just tasted that crab nugget.

0:23:130:23:15

It's good, isn't it, eh?

0:23:160:23:17

Very good.

0:23:180:23:20

Another treat.

0:23:200:23:22

Well, now your stomach's satisfied, how about your brain?

0:23:230:23:26

I have got a fantastic village to show you called Milton Abbas.

0:23:260:23:30

Full of history.

0:23:300:23:31

Fancy a little stroll down the high street?

0:23:310:23:33

Of course.

0:23:330:23:34

Few things epitomise the splendour of the English countryside

0:23:420:23:46

more than its quaint picture-postcard villages.

0:23:460:23:49

And there's certainly no shortage of those in Dorset.

0:23:490:23:54

Characterised by its identical thatched cottages,

0:23:540:23:57

Milton Abbas near Dorchester

0:23:570:23:59

has a particularly interesting history,

0:23:590:24:01

as one of the first planned settlements in Britain.

0:24:010:24:05

So why have you brought me here?

0:24:050:24:07

Well, first of all, it's a fantastically interesting village -

0:24:070:24:10

-it looks modern, almost.

-Yes, it does.

-20th century.

-Yeah.

0:24:100:24:14

-But in fact Milton Abbas was built in 1773.

-Good Lord!

0:24:140:24:19

And the original village was down the road,

0:24:190:24:21

but the Earl of Dorchester didn't like the noise.

0:24:210:24:25

It disturbed his rural tranquillity.

0:24:250:24:28

And so he simply demolished the original village

0:24:280:24:32

and rebuilt it here.

0:24:320:24:33

So it's called a planned village or a model village,

0:24:330:24:38

and it was all built at once, and most of the old villagers moved here.

0:24:380:24:42

So he just told them, "You've got to shift and live here"?

0:24:420:24:44

They had no choice - he was the local landowner,

0:24:440:24:47

and he built them the village, so that was it.

0:24:470:24:50

Where the village was, down the road,

0:24:500:24:52

it was then knocked down completely and now it's an ornamental lake.

0:24:520:24:56

Doesn't exist!

0:24:580:24:59

So they could go fishing?!

0:24:590:25:00

Yeah!

0:25:000:25:01

Having got rid of the villagers,

0:25:010:25:03

Lord Milton set about redesigning the grounds,

0:25:030:25:07

and replaced the decaying abbey building

0:25:070:25:09

with a Gothic-style mansion that today houses the local school.

0:25:090:25:13

But I think the villagers got a great deal.

0:25:140:25:18

By the standards of the day,

0:25:190:25:20

this would have been luxurious living -

0:25:200:25:23

look, semidetached houses or detached houses -

0:25:230:25:26

today they're probably worth a fortune!

0:25:260:25:28

But back then they were villagers' hovels.

0:25:280:25:31

Well, just near here there's a very famous goat farm,

0:25:310:25:33

and I'm desperate to see it.

0:25:330:25:35

-So shall we go and see some goats?

-Let's go see!

0:25:350:25:37

There's a long heritage of livestock farming in Dorset.

0:25:410:25:44

But at Steeptonbill Farm, Steve Gould and Tess Evans

0:25:450:25:49

are venturing into new territory by adding a herd of goats

0:25:490:25:53

to the wide range of animals they breed.

0:25:530:25:56

I still have to decide on our celebratory dish,

0:25:560:25:59

and I think goat would be just the perfect main ingredient.

0:25:590:26:03

-Hello!

-Hello.

-Nice to see you.

0:26:040:26:07

-Hi.

-Hello, hello!

-It's good to see you.

0:26:070:26:11

Come on in.

0:26:110:26:12

Steve and Tess thought their steep banks overlooking Milton Abbey

0:26:160:26:20

would be the perfect terrain for rearing goats.

0:26:200:26:24

The only trouble is that we've got to climb to the top

0:26:240:26:26

to appreciate the view.

0:26:260:26:28

Oh, this is vertical!

0:26:280:26:30

Go on, give me your hand.

0:26:320:26:33

No, I don't want a hand.

0:26:330:26:34

-Come on!

-No!

0:26:340:26:36

Just think of the view.

0:26:360:26:38

Oops!

0:26:380:26:39

I'm thinking of the goat...

0:26:390:26:41

cooked!

0:26:410:26:42

So, with this farm, you specialise in rare breeds.

0:26:440:26:48

Rare breeds, sheep.

0:26:480:26:50

And we have just gone into goats in the last couple of years.

0:26:500:26:54

Where we've crossed South African Boer goat

0:26:540:26:57

with an ex-dairy goat like these here,

0:26:570:27:00

to produce a meat goat which seems to be going very well.

0:27:000:27:05

So what made you actually decide to make that decision?

0:27:050:27:08

Because it's a big decision, surely?

0:27:080:27:10

It was various chefs that we deal with locally

0:27:100:27:14

seemed to want it and demand it...

0:27:140:27:16

So these were the chefs that were buying your other meat...

0:27:160:27:19

-Buying other things, vegetables.

-Yeah, buying your mutton. Yeah.

0:27:190:27:22

..other vegetables, eggs and all of that sort of stuff.

0:27:220:27:24

And then we started to sell it through the farm shop.

0:27:240:27:27

I think that possibly people have been experimenting with it,

0:27:270:27:31

-or having it when they've been on their holidays...

-Yeah.

0:27:310:27:34

..and want to come back and just try it at home, really.

0:27:340:27:36

It is, I am told, the world's most eaten meat,

0:27:360:27:39

-which I never realised.

-Yeah...

0:27:390:27:41

In this country it's regarded as a delicacy still, isn't it?

0:27:410:27:45

It is, relatively, a delicacy.

0:27:450:27:46

People have become quite interested in it

0:27:460:27:48

because it's very healthy meat.

0:27:480:27:50

-Yeah, I was going to say, it's got lots of advantages.

-Yeah.

0:27:500:27:53

I think it's next to venison in regards to health.

0:27:530:27:55

It's low cholesterol, low saturated fat, high in iron,

0:27:550:27:59

comparable to beef in iron content.

0:27:590:28:02

So we've quite a few people coming into the shop

0:28:020:28:05

who are interested in eating healthily,

0:28:050:28:07

and that's sometimes appealing as well.

0:28:070:28:09

Isn't the other thing,

0:28:090:28:10

you couldn't get much more free-range than this?

0:28:100:28:12

Look, Brian and I have staggered up this hill...

0:28:120:28:15

-Speak for yourself!

-Well!

0:28:150:28:17

-These goats, they're so nimble, aren't they?!

-They are!

0:28:170:28:20

They've got the most fantastic grazing here, I mean you know...

0:28:200:28:22

-They are quite picky about what they will eat, as well.

-They are.

0:28:220:28:26

They've rejected my trousers, my socks and my shoes!

0:28:260:28:29

-And your designer trainers!

-Yeah!

0:28:290:28:30

When people come in to you, and see goat meat

0:28:300:28:33

and say to you, "What does it taste like?"

0:28:330:28:35

How do you describe it?

0:28:350:28:37

Well, it's like a cross between lamb and beef, really, I suggest.

0:28:370:28:40

-There's not a lot of fat on it.

-It's very, very, very low in fat.

0:28:400:28:43

I mean, you can see, none of these animals are fat,

0:28:430:28:45

and none of them will ever get fat.

0:28:450:28:47

And that influences, Steve, how you cook it, doesn't it?

0:28:470:28:50

-Well...

-Because it's so dry.

0:28:500:28:52

It could be dry, if you didn't cook it right.

0:28:520:28:54

-But, I mean, my favourite joint is the leg.

-Yeah.

0:28:540:28:59

And our butcher cuts it into steaks,

0:28:590:29:01

and just to fry that in the frying pan,

0:29:010:29:03

just literally flash fry it and turn it over,

0:29:030:29:06

it's absolutely fabulous.

0:29:060:29:07

I could eat it all day and all night!

0:29:070:29:09

Well, Brian, got any inspiration?

0:29:140:29:16

Great inspiration.

0:29:160:29:18

With you in mind with these leg steaks, I've got a fabulous idea.

0:29:180:29:22

Slow-cooked, braised...wait and see.

0:29:220:29:25

Right. New twist on Dorset, then.

0:29:250:29:28

Absolutely right.

0:29:280:29:30

Armed with a couple of goat steaks,

0:29:400:29:42

we're all set to cook up a taste of Dorset.

0:29:420:29:45

Given the county's rich historical heritage,

0:29:460:29:48

I can't think of anywhere more appropriate for our celebratory cook

0:29:480:29:53

than a 15th-century Tudor mansion.

0:29:530:29:56

What do you think?

0:29:560:29:57

Athelhampton House - isn't it beautiful?

0:29:570:29:59

Fantastic, isn't it, eh?

0:29:590:30:01

Absolutely sensational.

0:30:010:30:02

Well, I'm off to go and have a look at the gardens.

0:30:020:30:05

Well, I'm going to get my celebration goat ready, then.

0:30:050:30:08

-See you later, bud!

-Perfect place for you.

0:30:080:30:10

Considered to be one of the most outstanding manor houses in Britain,

0:30:130:30:17

Athelhampton's been granted Grade I listed status.

0:30:170:30:21

Current owner Andrea Cooke is continuing a long tradition

0:30:210:30:24

of restoring the house and gardens for future generations.

0:30:240:30:29

So, what date is the house?

0:30:290:30:32

Was it all built in one period,

0:30:320:30:34

or has it been added to over the centuries?

0:30:340:30:37

Oh, no. Well, the Pidele family moved here in the 1350s,

0:30:370:30:39

which was where the Piddle Valley gets its name from.

0:30:390:30:42

So, there was a Norman house here,

0:30:420:30:44

but before them was a Saxon building.

0:30:440:30:46

The house that you see now, the hall dates from 1485,

0:30:460:30:50

but there was a building here from the 1350s.

0:30:500:30:53

But there's Elizabethan, Georgian,

0:30:530:30:55

going right the way through to the 20th century.

0:30:550:30:58

-There has been an evolution...

-So, it has been added to.

0:30:580:31:02

So, with every family, and the need of each of each family,

0:31:020:31:05

people have just added on rooms.

0:31:050:31:07

So, as each member of the family has inherited the house,

0:31:070:31:10

how have they altered the gardens?

0:31:100:31:13

The original gardens only started -

0:31:130:31:16

this gardens you see now - in the 1880s.

0:31:160:31:18

The owner at the time, Cart de Lafontaine, imported 40,000 tonnes

0:31:180:31:22

of hamstone and they terraced the whole garden up from this base.

0:31:220:31:27

The Cooke family, my husband's family, started adding to it.

0:31:270:31:30

The Palace of Westminster has an area called New Palace Yard,

0:31:300:31:34

with a beautiful fountain system,

0:31:340:31:36

so we have a miniature version of that, here.

0:31:360:31:38

So, the gardens are not one garden,

0:31:450:31:47

they are a series almost of rooms, aren't they?

0:31:470:31:50

Oh, very much. I think that's the joy of this garden,

0:31:500:31:53

because when I've come to plant it,

0:31:530:31:55

I try to be really pure about the colours in each room,

0:31:550:31:58

so they are distinctive from one to the other.

0:31:580:32:01

And they sort of lead in from one room to the next.

0:32:010:32:04

Andrea, thanks so much for hosting us here.

0:32:040:32:07

Will you join me for a bit of celebration goat?

0:32:070:32:10

I'd love to! Yes, please. Thank you.

0:32:100:32:12

Time to head back to the manor house to see what Brian

0:32:160:32:19

has on the menu for our celebratory dish.

0:32:190:32:22

Well, this is it.

0:32:250:32:26

I have got some fantastic local ingredients.

0:32:260:32:30

And what a great sight, and look, lots of people!

0:32:300:32:33

-Lots of locals!

-Fantastic! Local it is. These are local vegetables.

0:32:330:32:38

This is what I'm going to cook with.

0:32:380:32:40

Leg steaks from Steve's goat. That looks fantastic.

0:32:400:32:43

-Very little fat on it, looks good.

-Yes.

0:32:430:32:46

Going to be fantastic, is that.

0:32:460:32:48

And then, what I've decided to do is to make it a little bit spicy.

0:32:480:32:51

So, I have got here, I have got some cardamom,

0:32:510:32:53

some cloves and some peppercorns.

0:32:530:32:55

I've got ginger, green chilli,

0:32:550:32:58

cinnamon stick and this belter.

0:32:580:33:01

This is Lee's charcuterie place,

0:33:010:33:04

this is wonderful chorizo.

0:33:040:33:07

I'm going to do a goat steak in a spicy tomato sauce,

0:33:070:33:11

with potatoes and chorizo on top.

0:33:110:33:13

So, I'm just going to chop this up.

0:33:170:33:19

And I have got some of these onions here, local onions.

0:33:190:33:22

Everything is local as you say, today.

0:33:220:33:24

Lovely golden brown with a bit of oil.

0:33:240:33:26

Takes ages, but they smell fantastic.

0:33:260:33:29

Don't know about everybody else, but fried onions...

0:33:290:33:31

They're starving! They're starving!

0:33:310:33:33

Oh, be good!

0:33:330:33:34

So, those go in there, and we put the chorizo in there,

0:33:340:33:37

to give that little bit of spicy flavour as we kick off.

0:33:370:33:41

Okey-cokey. So once I have got that on the go, bit of chicken stock.

0:33:420:33:45

So, we put that in there

0:33:450:33:48

and we'll just let it start to cook away, there.

0:33:480:33:51

Get a bit of flavour all mingled in together,

0:33:510:33:54

whilst that's happening, bit of olive oil...

0:33:540:33:56

That chorizo is really colouring the onions.

0:33:570:33:59

It has! It's lovely, isn't it?

0:33:590:34:01

And it will go lovely with the tomato colour, so that's fantastic.

0:34:010:34:04

In here, then, we're going to colour the goat steaks.

0:34:040:34:07

And what I want to do is make sure we get

0:34:070:34:09

a really lovely caramelisation on the outside.

0:34:090:34:12

So, we put those in now, nice and gently, mind your hands.

0:34:120:34:15

But the thing about this is, don't play with it.

0:34:180:34:22

Just let it sit there, caramelise it. Don't get the juices out if it,

0:34:220:34:25

or else it will start to boil and toughen up.

0:34:250:34:27

And we're going to braise it anyway,

0:34:270:34:29

so, we don't want to toughen it too much.

0:34:290:34:31

Anyway, on there, lots of nice colour.

0:34:310:34:33

Whilst that's happening, into here, remember, chicken stock,

0:34:330:34:37

chorizo and onions.

0:34:370:34:38

Cinnamon stick.

0:34:380:34:40

Going to put half a green chilli.

0:34:400:34:44

Is that a hot chilli or...?

0:34:440:34:46

It is a fairly warm chilli, I have to say.

0:34:460:34:49

I hope it goes well with the chorizo, but of course,

0:34:490:34:51

in this part of the world, they are already growing their own chillies.

0:34:510:34:54

Yes! I grow chillies on my balcony!

0:34:540:34:57

-Of course you do!

-No, it's amazing,

0:34:570:34:59

-I always thought that chillies only grew in hot climates.

-So did I!

0:34:590:35:02

-They're easy to grow.

-So, in that goes.

0:35:020:35:05

Give that a stir.

0:35:080:35:09

And ginger.

0:35:100:35:12

Now I do like ginger. Right, so...

0:35:120:35:15

So, that's looking good. Let's have a quick look at our meat.

0:35:170:35:20

What do you reckon to that, Steve? There you are, there's the man.

0:35:220:35:25

He can see, just looking at it, he can tell how beautiful it is.

0:35:250:35:28

-Wonderful, mate.

-Fantastic.

-You're just colouring the outside.

0:35:280:35:31

Colouring the outside. Sealing it all up there.

0:35:310:35:34

And then over here we have got cardamom seeds,

0:35:340:35:37

just crush them,

0:35:370:35:39

peppercorns, and cloves.

0:35:390:35:42

And the idea here is that you

0:35:420:35:43

stick it into a little muslin bag, and tie it up.

0:35:430:35:46

Why? Because you don't want them floating around there,

0:35:460:35:50

and they're difficult to take out.

0:35:500:35:51

If you forget to do that, you have to pick out of your teeth.

0:35:510:35:54

It's terrible. You get these lumps of wood in your stew.

0:35:540:35:57

-This sounds like a party game they play at your flat!

-I know, I know!

0:35:570:36:00

I can't stand it when people have bits of cardamom floating around.

0:36:000:36:03

So, that goes in there, so we have got bags of flavour.

0:36:040:36:08

Then our steaks go in.

0:36:100:36:13

A bit of oil in there.

0:36:130:36:15

Lovely.

0:36:190:36:20

And I am going to put that on,

0:36:200:36:23

and leave that to simmer for about 30 minutes.

0:36:230:36:26

-After 30 minutes...

-And don't fiddle around with it...

0:36:280:36:30

You are absolutely right. Don't fiddle around with it.

0:36:300:36:33

Just bring it up to a nice simmer,

0:36:330:36:34

just let it sit there and chug away.

0:36:340:36:36

All those flavours marrying together

0:36:360:36:38

to give you this wonderful big flavour that we're going to have.

0:36:380:36:42

So, whilst that's happening,

0:36:420:36:44

I've got these fantastic local tomatoes.

0:36:440:36:46

Just chop them into bits.

0:36:460:36:48

Now, this is a great use for those overripe tomatoes

0:36:480:36:51

that you have forgotten about.

0:36:510:36:52

Now, you're not taking the skins off, or anything fancy?

0:36:520:36:55

Oh, no, no! Nay, lass! I'm from Yorkshire,

0:36:550:36:57

-we don't throw owt away.

-No, because I take my skins off,

0:36:570:37:00

but then you think that's a bit over-fussy?

0:37:000:37:03

So, that's been cooking now for half an hour.

0:37:030:37:06

We stick this in here,

0:37:060:37:07

and everything has been assimilated. It's got a good flavour.

0:37:070:37:11

Have a smell.

0:37:120:37:14

Smells great.

0:37:140:37:15

I can smell all the herbs.

0:37:160:37:19

That's right, yes. The spices.

0:37:190:37:21

The ginger is coming through.

0:37:210:37:23

That's what I like about this, I like the ginger in this.

0:37:230:37:25

So, those are all in there now.

0:37:270:37:29

I've got to put some salt and pepper in there. OK.

0:37:290:37:31

So, we cooked it for half an hour to start with, OK?

0:37:310:37:34

And then, we put the tomatoes in there,

0:37:340:37:36

and it's got to cook again for another half hour.

0:37:360:37:39

What I need to do, is get these parboiled local potatoes...

0:37:390:37:42

-Yes.

-Delicious.

0:37:420:37:46

There we go, and all we need to do is stick these around the outside.

0:37:460:37:49

And you need to do it fairly quickly,

0:37:490:37:51

so that the liquor doesn't all disappear,

0:37:510:37:55

and if it does, top it up with some extra stock.

0:37:550:37:58

So, look at that. You put the lid on,

0:37:580:38:01

and you turn it down and you let it simmer for half an hour.

0:38:010:38:05

Now it's Dorset knob time!

0:38:050:38:07

Hurray! Look, these things here,

0:38:070:38:11

they are like... rock-solid dumplings.

0:38:110:38:14

They have been dried out. A special recipe.

0:38:140:38:16

Only make them in this part of the world

0:38:160:38:18

and I think they will go fantastic with my stew, you can dunk them in.

0:38:180:38:22

Well, I tell you what I've heard, Brian,

0:38:220:38:24

that the locals have got a knob-throwing competition,

0:38:240:38:27

that takes place annually.

0:38:270:38:28

I don't know how I said that, but I managed it!

0:38:280:38:31

So, what I'm going to do, is run my version of it.

0:38:310:38:34

And whoever wins - chucks one of these the furthest -

0:38:340:38:37

can taste your stew and see if it's ready! You OK with that?

0:38:370:38:40

You just do a bit of stirring?

0:38:400:38:42

OK? Anyone up for a bit of knob-tossing?

0:38:420:38:45

Come, follow me. I've prepared a court.

0:38:450:38:48

A pitch, or whatever you want to call it!

0:38:480:38:51

Can I line you all up, please? Thank you.

0:38:510:38:54

Now, is everybody ready?

0:38:580:39:00

Are you poised?

0:39:000:39:02

One...two...

0:39:020:39:05

three...CHUCK!

0:39:050:39:06

ALL LAUGH

0:39:060:39:09

Right! The dog's eating them all!

0:39:100:39:12

-Who threw this one?

-Andrea.

-It was me!

0:39:140:39:16

Andrea! Andrea, you've won!

0:39:160:39:18

-Here is our winner. Brian, please let Andrea taste it.

-Congratulations!

0:39:190:39:23

Right, here we are.

0:39:230:39:25

Tell me what you think.

0:39:250:39:27

A bit of Steve's goat.

0:39:270:39:29

Local tomatoes, bit of Lee's chorizo.

0:39:290:39:33

-Right, you take the spoon.

-OK.

0:39:330:39:36

It's a big moment.

0:39:370:39:39

Roll on drums...

0:39:410:39:42

-It's beautiful. Really nice.

-Thank you very much.

0:39:460:39:49

Take a seat, ladies and gentlemen. Well done, that young lady!

0:39:490:39:52

APPLAUSE

0:39:520:39:54

Right, the nice thing about this is it's a big platter,

0:39:540:39:57

put it on there, cut it up. Let people help themselves.

0:39:570:40:00

So, we get those two lovely steaks.

0:40:000:40:03

Starting to fall off the bone.

0:40:030:40:05

I think it's probably better if you let these rest

0:40:050:40:08

for a while after they come out.

0:40:080:40:10

Potatoes. We will do what we did with them before,

0:40:110:40:13

stick them around the outside.

0:40:130:40:15

You could, of course, be extremely rustic

0:40:150:40:17

and you could just serve the whole thing in the pan.

0:40:170:40:19

And just let people dig in and help themselves.

0:40:190:40:22

That's what I'd be doing at my house,

0:40:220:40:24

but I'm no good on presentation.

0:40:240:40:26

That lot are going to demolish this in two minutes.

0:40:260:40:29

-Do you reckon?

-Yeah!

0:40:290:40:32

There we go. Look at that.

0:40:320:40:35

OK. So take that cinnamon out.

0:40:350:40:38

We don't want that.

0:40:380:40:39

Pour this all over the top.

0:40:390:40:41

I have actually just got here

0:40:430:40:45

these wonderful chorizo slices,

0:40:450:40:47

just to go on top.

0:40:470:40:49

For those that like it really spiced up.

0:40:490:40:54

And you know me, I do like to have

0:40:540:40:57

a bit of fresh, local, chopped parsley.

0:40:570:41:00

So, there you have it, my dear.

0:41:040:41:06

Goat steak in a spicy tomato sauce with potatoes and chorizo on top.

0:41:070:41:13

APPLAUSE

0:41:150:41:17

-What do you reckon to that?

-Oh, very local.

0:41:170:41:20

Give me some, I'm starving!

0:41:200:41:22

I can only admire something for so long!

0:41:220:41:24

-Right, OK.

-Off you go.

0:41:250:41:28

I have got some tomato, with the skin on...

0:41:280:41:32

Yeah, yeah, yeah...

0:41:320:41:34

That is so tender.

0:41:370:41:39

Fabulous.

0:41:420:41:44

And did you like the spices?

0:41:440:41:46

I love the spices. It's delicious.

0:41:460:41:48

It's not too hot, it's got a bit of a kick afterwards.

0:41:480:41:51

OK, girl, so what do you think?

0:41:510:41:53

You've done it again, it's fantastic. Very, very good.

0:41:530:41:56

-Shall we let all the others have some?

-Come on, team.

0:41:560:41:59

Come and join us. Steve, come in. Alex, get in.

0:41:590:42:02

That's really delicious.

0:42:050:42:06

Get stuck in, get some more.

0:42:080:42:10

George is on thirds!

0:42:120:42:14

So what did you think to that?

0:42:140:42:17

Fabulous, you did it proud.

0:42:170:42:19

Absolutely wonderful, Brian.

0:42:190:42:20

The flavour is delicious and those spices just accentuate it.

0:42:200:42:24

-Beautiful.

-Really very, very tender.

0:42:240:42:26

Very, very good indeed with a Dorset twist.

0:42:260:42:29

Look at that. The proof of the pudding is in the eating.

0:42:330:42:35

-That's all that is left. Two bones.

-Prehistoric teeth.

0:42:350:42:39

I think that Steve and Tess, Lee did a great job.

0:42:390:42:42

-Fabulous products.

-Local producers.

0:42:420:42:44

-Do you think they liked it?

-Look!

0:42:440:42:46

There is hardly anything left, except these two bones.

0:42:460:42:49

I ate tomatoes with the skins on and survived!

0:42:490:42:52

I think your dish was absolutely terrific.

0:42:520:42:55

So, there we've got it yet again.

0:42:550:42:57

-A Taste Of Britain in Dorset, it works.

-Fabulous.

0:42:570:43:02

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