Episode 10 Christmas Kitchen with James Martin


Episode 10

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We have food, fun and festive spirit aplenty.

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It's time for Christmas Kitchen.

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And welcome to the show.

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Coming up, we take a trip to Paris to Ken Hom's house

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for an exclusive Christmas recipe,

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plus we unwrap some more BBC food archives.

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Today, we're visiting Nigel Slater.

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Cooking with me here is a man who's brought a different type

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of Christmas shine to the studio.

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He's got two shining Michelin stars. It's the brilliant Nathan Outlaw.

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And next to him, a man who's been talking turkey for the last ten days.

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There's other names for it! It's Brian Turner.

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And my special guest today is the nation's favourite singing teacher

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who makes choral singing cool. It's the brilliant Gareth Malone.

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So first of all, every bloke that I ask, Christmas shopping. Is it done?

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-It's not done at all.

-It's not done? You haven't got long left.

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-Well, I've bought a tree.

-Well, that's a start.

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It's got baubles on it. What more do I need?

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-Well, presents and bits of pieces.

-I'm getting on it.

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-It on my "to do" list.

-There we go.

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I'm presuming you've done it, because you're busy in the kitchen.

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You're looking worried! What are you going to make for us today?

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I'm going to make you a lovely smoked fish bubble and squeak

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-with a poached duck egg.

-Sounds pretty good. Poached duck egg.

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It's one of those one-pot dinners, really, everything that's left over?

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Definitely. You've got to use it up. Can't waste it at Christmas time.

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Everything without the turkey, I see. You're not a fan, either?

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-I need to be convinced.

-Well, here's the man to do it.

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Brian, over the last ten days, has tried to convince me and a lot of other people,

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because I know the guy to my right doesn't like turkey as well,

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in one final attempt for us to fall in love with turkey.

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-What are you going to do with that, then?

-This is the one.

-This is it?

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This is the one, James. I'm convinced. If it doesn't work,

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then I'm not going to do any more. That's it.

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-Great.

-So it's seasoned with black pudding and roast potatoes,

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which I know will go straight to your heart.

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They look a bit fancy roast potatoes, chef.

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Well, they call them pomme fondant, but they're posh roast potatoes.

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-Fancy roast potatoes. In stock. Chicken stock.

-Turkey stock.

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-Chicken stock.

-Turkey stock.

-Turkey?

-Well, a bit dry, a little boring.

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Are we talking about James?

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I've got something far more tasty over here.

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Come over here and join us.

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We've got some nice little chicken croquettes,

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Spanish-style croquettes for this one.

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It starts off with a thick bechamel, so the first thing I'm going to do

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is get our butter in our pan and we're going to add flour and milk.

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This becomes a thick, white bechamel sauce. It's unbelievable.

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2006, we first saw you on the TV.

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What an amazing journey you've had.

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You can't have known that this would be huge, not just in the UK

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-but globally?

-I had absolutely no idea.

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The first series I thought would go out at 11 o'clock without fuss,

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without notice, and it was a big hit,

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and then we did the second season and it's just gone on and on.

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It's been wonderful, it's been really good.

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For me, to be able to have that platform to say what I believe in,

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which is that choirs are fantastic

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and singing is a wonderful force for good, has just been amazing.

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-It's a real privilege.

-It is a global thing.

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The first show, wasn't it in China, the World Choral Games?

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That's right, World Choir Games in China.

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I worked in a school in Northolt, just outside West London,

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for nine months getting those kids ready to go and compete

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in the World Choral Games, where we spectacularly failed to win.

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We were second from last.

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But it was the choral equivalent of Eddie "the Eagle" Edwards.

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Well, I noticed that because chuckling in the corner

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-there is another protege...

-Alumni, yes.

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Brian Turner.

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Was it 2011 you tried to teach Brian Turner to sing, as well?

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-That's right. Was it Comic Relief?

-Sport Relief.

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-It was Sport Relief, that's right.

-Rick Astley.

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After the huge success of getting sports stars to sing,

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the next year I did chefs.

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That's all I'll say!

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Failed as well!

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I thought they did very well. We had a good time.

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Absolutely great fun, raised a lot of money on the night

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and we still see each other, all that choir, we still sing together.

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Not a lot. I've got a sore throat today.

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We had that amazing moment where Rick Astley came out

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from behind the glitter curtain.

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And none of us knew it was going to happen. Pow, there he was.

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Are you a great believer that everybody can sing?

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Is that true or not?

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Yeah, I think everyone's got a voice.

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I think it's about where you use it.

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If you go to an audition and you're not used to that,

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obviously that's going to be very intimidating and could be off-putting

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but there are plenty of choirs out there for anyone to join.

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We have got something in common.

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Aged ten years old, that's where you fell in love with the choir.

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-I was the same.

-Really?

-Yeah, I was actually in a choir at school.

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-And were you good?

-I wasn't very good, obviously,

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because I only lasted two songs.

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It was the Nativity play, and then I got demoted to lighting.

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That's nothing against the lighting guy in this studio, by any chance.

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A short-lived love affair?

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It was only two switches, on and off, and a dimmer.

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And I messed that bit up, as well.

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Anyway, we're about to see you, your tour is coming up shortly.

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My first tour. I'm really excited about it.

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I'm going out on the road with Voices,

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who are my choir of young singers.

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And it's also a chance for audiences to come and sing along.

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So if you've always wanted to sing with Gareth Malone

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or you're just looking for a good night out, it's my first tour.

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-I've never been out on the road before.

-So this is touring in what?

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We're going everywhere. Large venues,

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Birmingham Symphony Hall, Manchester Bridgewater Hall, London Apollo.

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-And this is May and June of next year?

-May and June.

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So I'd better start planning it. After Christmas.

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But keeping really busy at the moment because currently on the box,

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what are we now, semifinal, final?

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The semifinal just went out and we're building up to the final.

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And very fiercely competed, it was.

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And this is Sing While You Work,

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so for anybody who hasn't seen it, tell us a little about it.

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It's a very simple idea.

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A great way to bring people together in the workplace is through singing,

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and I took five British workplaces, P&O Ferries, City,

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who are a bank down in Canary Wharf, Birmingham City Council,

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Cheshire Fire Service and Sainsbury's.

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Sainsbury's left us a couple of weeks ago

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and Birmingham went in the semifinal,

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and so that leaves three choirs to compete for the final.

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And for anybody who hasn't seen it, here's a little clip for you.

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# When I just can't see what you can see in me

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# Somehow you still see, you see the best in me. #

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OK, thank you very much. Not quite in tune. What's happened?

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Because it was sort of perfect last time, tuning wise.

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The problem with starting a choir in a workplace is that whatever happens

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to the workplace affects the choir.

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So we're on a downer at the moment

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because the Fire Service is on a downer.

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And I've got to pick them up.

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# Ding dong merrily on high

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# In heaven the bells are ringing

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# Ding dong merrily the sky

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# Is riv'n with angels singing. #

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Thank you. That's finished me off. How's morale now? Bloody awful!

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-There they are.

-Looks fantastic, but it's something that the whole world has embraced, really,

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because you've taken this idea to America as well.

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Yeah, I've just shot a series last year in America

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and certainly the British series has been out all over the world,

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so, yes, I often find Japanese tourists stop me in the street

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-and get very excited, which is quite weird!

-Fantastic.

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I'm just going to recap what we've got in here.

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You've got a really thick, you can see it, it's like a thick bechamel

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and I've thickened it up with some ground almonds

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because the Spanish love almonds.

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And we've got some tarragon, we've got some leftover chicken in there.

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If you missed that, Brian, how it was brought together,

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if you want to do it with turkey, the recipe's on Ceefax.

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-I'm supposed to say that, not you!

-He's still got it on his TV.

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Basically, we're going to pour this in and make a little bit

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of mayonnaise, really, and thicken it with red pepper as well.

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-All it is is egg yolks, mustard, and you pour in...

-What is this?

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This is a little bit of rapeseed oil, but traditionally,

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mayonnaise would be done with veg oil, that's why it's white.

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Whereas if we use this oil, it's nice and yellow.

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And it's not as strong as olive oil.

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You wouldn't use extra-virgin olive oil for this,

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you'd use a lighter, flavoured olive oil.

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And then you allow that to cool down.

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And in the fridge here, I've got some little croquettes.

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Now the great thing about this, it uses leftover stuff this Christmas,

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but you can make this out of fish, as well.

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And it becomes this sort of tapas dish that the Spanish love,

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because it thickens up and you can make these croquettes.

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So, you just roll them up in a ball and then you flour,

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egg and breadcrumb them. So a bit of seasoned flour.

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Like that. In the egg.

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I like messy cooking like this.

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Good. >

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-It's not that bad.

-Obviously, he's very neat.

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So the 22nd December sees the final final show?

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Yeah, it's a day earlier than normal.

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They're putting it on on Sunday night for the Christmas special.

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So what is it about it that you think people love?

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I think it's a couple of things. It's really interesting for me

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and for the viewers, as well, to go behind-the-scenes at various companies.

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Last series, we had a waterworks company and I went to a sewage works,

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which was actually more interesting than it might sound.

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I went to, on this one, on ships with P&O,

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I've been training with firefighters, so there's a kind of nosy...

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-The jeopardy's there, as well?

-There is a lot.

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There's a real passion that all these guys get

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because they have the first successful performance

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and then they go head-to-head,

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so they were at the Royal Academy of Music

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and then they learned to sing gospel music and they're now,

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they're addicts, I think, choir addicts.

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Because you get very caught up in it. There is such a sense of teamwork.

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They are really desperate to win.

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When you think of choral singing, you think of One Direction,

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really, but there are so many different things.

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I'm sorry, you think of One Direction?!

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INDISTINCT CHATTER

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-No, I didn't think that.

-Do you?

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Well, my mate's got their album and he's a builder. Stephen Bircham.

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I've just embarrassed him. He's 52 years old.

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He's got a signed copy of their album, as well.

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But no, what I'm saying is that it's different, and gospel is...

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Oh, so much. It's so varied. And I feel that choirs can do anything,

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which has been partly what the CD I released with Voices was about.

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It was about proving that choirs could sing popular music

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and do it convincingly.

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And certainly on the series we tackle all kinds of things.

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I really enjoy gospel, because that was a challenge for me.

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-I've never conducted gospel music before.

-It is amazing.

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Literally, I saw it in New York. It is fantastic, gospel singing,

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the idea of it. You don't think you're going to get into it but it is pretty...

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It's visceral. They really go for it, and the physicality of it,

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they move and there's a pulse to the whole thing.

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That's where you went wrong, Brian, you didn't move.

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-I moved tremendously.

-I was moved!

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I was just trying to hide from the camera all the time.

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We've got a little bit of mayonnaise there,

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so all I've done there is put a bit of watercress

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and some of this red pepper, a sweet red pepper

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so it's like a home-made dip.

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But the key to this, because you have this mixture

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when it goes firm and cold, it's liquid,

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it's soft when it's still warm.

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When you deep fat fry it, it becomes soft again.

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You have these in tapas restaurants all over Spain but it's fantastic.

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You can mix and match with chicken.

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Not turkey, because it's going to dry it out too much.

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Chef, it's the perfect foil for turkey.

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-I don't know whether it is, chef.

-James, I'm telling you, it is.

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Trust me, because it's the liquid, the sauce that actually

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makes the moistness of the turkey accentuated.

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-The moistness of the turkey?

-That's what I just said.

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I'm sorry, I was sceptical.

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We're going to prove it to you.

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-Do I have to eat all of them?

-You don't have to eat all of them.

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I've just done enough for Brian for a little starter, you see.

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So, you just put these on.

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Simple, simple, but soft in the middle,

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that's the key to these sort of things.

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It will be hot. I'll get you a knife and fork.

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We'd hate you to burn your mouth, Gareth,

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before the next round of singing.

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-And my fingers are very important in conducting.

-Is your mouth insured?

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It really ought to be.

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They're not that bad. It's not going to harm him that much.

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-Just a little blister.

-By mistake, some people just blister.

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When you've got a blister, it isn't that easy to sing.

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I've got hot coffee to go with it, as well.

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It's time for a real Christmas treat.

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We paid a visit to Ken Hom at his home in Paris

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to find out what he likes to cook over the holidays.

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So here he is with a delicious prawn dish.

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Bienvenue a Paris!

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I'm just so lucky to live in Paris.

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It's a very special place, especially at the time of Christmas. Why?

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Because it's nice and cold

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and you want to go to the warmth of the kitchen

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and cook all this wonderful food.

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Now, I have a very special recipe that I want to share with you.

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Welcome to my home in Paris.

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I have for you today a very special Christmas kitchen recipe.

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The special dish is sizzling rice prawns.

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It's spectacular, it's easy to make and it will wow all your guests.

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What you want to start out with is a nice red pepper and, of course,

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for Christmas, this colour of red is just perfect for the table.

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And, of course, a little bit of garlic.

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Often we think about Christmas as sort of the traditional turkey

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and Brussels sprouts and I think this will spice it up

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because I think people's tastes have changed.

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Because it's so spicy, it just launches the whole meal

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into a very festive mood.

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Now, remember to get your wok very hot, as always, before you start.

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Just a little bit of oil, vegetable or groundnut oil.

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And you want to start off first with the garlic.

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Ginger.

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Stir that around very, very quickly, and your peppers.

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Of course, I know how difficult it is for Christmas preparation.

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You're in a panic and you think,

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I have to do all this at the last moment,

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but the sauce you can make ahead of time and then you cook the prawns

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at the very end to just warm it up.

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Now, the secret ingredient in this whole dish will be these.

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This is rice cakes. They come dry,

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but this will make your Christmas meal very, very spectacular.

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We add some spring onions, so as you can see,

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that looks really festive and very Christmas-like colours.

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We finish that with a splash of rice wine.

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This Chinese black vinegar,

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this will add a little bit of balance to this whole sauce.

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Dark...

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..and light soy sauce.

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Now, the secret ingredient is the chilli bean paste,

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and this will really add certainly a kick to your Christmas meal.

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And some, either tomato paste or tomato sauce...

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..a nice generous gulp of that.

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You can finish that off with either some chicken stock or fish stock.

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Let that simmer.

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And we want to finish it off with just a touch of sugar. Why?

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Because sugar will help balance the heat

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of the chilli bean paste and sauce.

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Let's see how that tastes.

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Now what we want to do with the sauce later is we want to actually thicken

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the sauce with a little bit of cornflour

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dissolved in a bit of water.

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Before we do that, we're going to add our prawns.

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These are raw, uncooked prawns.

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We just put them in here like this.

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Give this a nice stir and now we're going to thicken the sauce.

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Now, when you're just about to serve this,

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get your oil very, very hot,

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add your rice cakes.

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Fry them.

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And they'll puff up really spectacularly.

0:18:370:18:41

Just bring that to your table.

0:18:530:18:55

And then in front of your guests, you pour this.

0:18:590:19:01

So that's my sizzling rice prawns, especially for Christmas Kitchen.

0:19:070:19:12

Now remember, the secret to Chinese cooking is preparation.

0:19:120:19:16

Once you have everything prepared, it goes very quickly.

0:19:160:19:19

So there's nothing left for me to say except have a happy Christmas.

0:19:200:19:24

Looks delicious. But what about the size of that kitchen?

0:19:300:19:33

I think the French just eat out.

0:19:330:19:35

Honestly, I think he'd get towed away after that because that's a motor home on the Champs-Elysees.

0:19:350:19:40

Still to come, Nathan will be putting his twist on bubble and squeak but, before that,

0:19:400:19:44

here's some of our favourite foodies with their festive tips.

0:19:440:19:48

You want crispy Christmas crackling on your pork?

0:19:480:19:51

This is how you do it. The night before,

0:19:510:19:53

rub the skin with hot water and vinegar and let it dry.

0:19:530:19:56

Rub it with some salt, a little bit of oil.

0:19:560:19:59

Leave in the fridge overnight and don't cover it.

0:19:590:20:01

The next day, put it in the oven at 220

0:20:010:20:04

and your crispy crackling will appear, like Santa.

0:20:040:20:08

Make sure that you are not so busy.

0:20:080:20:11

Prepare everything in advance and slowly, devise the menu

0:20:110:20:17

so that you have time for the others. And you will enjoy it.

0:20:170:20:22

Simple but nice.

0:20:220:20:23

My tip on Christmas Day with roast turkey

0:20:230:20:26

and all the trimmings is a rich white burgundy, but don't forget

0:20:260:20:29

that leftover turkey, served quite simply, can't take such a big wine.

0:20:290:20:34

The best wine to go for is South African chenin blanc.

0:20:340:20:37

It's fruity, it's well-priced and it's on terrific form this year.

0:20:370:20:41

Thanks for that. Some great ideas there. Another one coming up.

0:20:420:20:45

Nathan and his fish. What are you going to make now?

0:20:450:20:47

Were going to make a lovely smoked fish bubble and squeak,

0:20:470:20:49

using up all the leftovers.

0:20:490:20:51

I'm hoping people will have this on Boxing Day.

0:20:510:20:54

Not at Brian Turner's house, because the potatoes are quite a rare

0:20:540:20:57

occurrence, those ones that are left over. They'll be gone.

0:20:570:20:59

And after a Christmas breakfast, you should have one of these smoked fish.

0:20:590:21:02

But I like the combination of all three in this.

0:21:020:21:05

So this is a variant on bubble and squeak, is that what we're trying to do?

0:21:050:21:08

Yes, but instead of using the meat or turkey,

0:21:080:21:10

-which I'm not really into...

-What's the matter with turkey, then?!

0:21:100:21:13

Turkey works perfect in this recipe,

0:21:130:21:15

people who are watching should remember that.

0:21:150:21:18

I prefer fish, I think. Fish will be really nice with this.

0:21:180:21:21

So what are you doing on Christmas Day, then?

0:21:210:21:23

Do you cook traditional or is it going to be fish again?

0:21:230:21:26

Last year, we did do fish, but this year, I've been outvoted

0:21:260:21:29

because my mum's coming round and they want to go traditional,

0:21:290:21:32

-so we have to have turkey. So I'm sort of forced, I'm sort of outnumbered.

-Don't be ridiculous.

0:21:320:21:36

How can anybody force someone your size to do anything?!

0:21:360:21:39

You'd be surprised, you'd be surprised!

0:21:390:21:42

But no, we're going to do a turkey dish as well.

0:21:420:21:45

Hopefully I can cook it. I'm going to learn something today, actually.

0:21:450:21:48

-You're going to be inspired!

-Yeah, I'm going to be inspired by this black pudding.

0:21:480:21:51

-Right, sliced onions.

-Nice, chopped onions.

0:21:510:21:55

You can do them as you want to, really.

0:21:550:21:56

A little bit of garlic, as well.

0:21:560:21:58

This is the only bit of the dish that you would

0:21:580:22:01

actually need to do before you use up the leftovers.

0:22:010:22:04

I think it gives a nice sort of... The garlic's a nice touch.

0:22:040:22:07

Particularly December's been a busy time for you because,

0:22:070:22:11

especially in Padstow, you've had the food festival there as well.

0:22:110:22:15

That's gone down really well.

0:22:150:22:17

I mean, that area of the country goes very quiet this time of year.

0:22:170:22:20

So when Rick organises the Padstow Christmas Festival,

0:22:200:22:23

it works really well.

0:22:230:22:25

Brian was down there, as well.

0:22:250:22:27

He came down and did a bit of a demonstration.

0:22:270:22:30

Now it's gone quite quiet.

0:22:300:22:32

London's busy, though, the Capital's doing really well.

0:22:320:22:36

I won't be around in London for Christmas Day, I'll be with my parents.

0:22:360:22:39

Is it quite difficult taking on a mantle like the Capital,

0:22:390:22:43

because you've had some of the greatest chefs in the world cook there.

0:22:430:22:48

And Brian Turner.

0:22:480:22:49

These lines are all being built.

0:22:510:22:53

-Just so you're teed up every time, James Martin!

-But it is.

0:22:530:22:57

Take someone like that - when were you there, Brian?

0:22:570:22:59

We were there '71 to '86. 1971, before you say anything!

0:22:590:23:04

I think there's still some of the turkey there, as well.

0:23:090:23:12

Finding that in the fridge, are you?

0:23:120:23:14

-Are you serving turkey at the Capital?

-We are.

0:23:140:23:18

-It's what people want.

-They do, I'm afraid.

0:23:180:23:21

Right, so we're doing poached duck eggs with this, as well.

0:23:220:23:25

Poached duck eggs, which you're getting on there. They'll take five minutes.

0:23:250:23:29

But if you want to cook them in advance,

0:23:290:23:31

you can just shock them or refresh them in cold water

0:23:310:23:34

like you're doing there.

0:23:340:23:35

If people want to do something different this Christmas, particularly serving fish,

0:23:350:23:39

what's in season for them at the moment?

0:23:390:23:42

-What should they be going for?

-The best thing at the moment,

0:23:420:23:44

believe it or not, the crab's really good at the minute.

0:23:440:23:47

But it's very difficult for the fishermen to get it,

0:23:470:23:49

which is a bit of a problem, but if you get hold of crab,

0:23:490:23:51

the quality of the brown crabmeat is really, really good.

0:23:510:23:54

Sea bass is really good at the moment.

0:23:540:23:56

One of the unfashionable fish that I think people should eat,

0:23:560:24:00

-grey mullet, is really, really good at the minute.

-Perfect.

0:24:000:24:03

-Really good fish.

-And not expensive.

0:24:030:24:05

You've got to know where that's coming from

0:24:050:24:08

-and how fresh it is, though.

-There's two types.

0:24:080:24:11

You get the estuary grey mullet,

0:24:110:24:13

which is the one that has the reputation for hanging around

0:24:130:24:16

in areas you don't want it to hang,

0:24:160:24:18

and eating what you don't want it to eat, but you also

0:24:180:24:21

get the type of grey mullet that swims in the channels and usually

0:24:210:24:25

its friend is the sea bass, so they usually hang around together.

0:24:250:24:29

I'm just going to show you these poached eggs. Vinegar in here, salt.

0:24:290:24:33

Just whisk it in the centre, just drop the egg. These are duck eggs,

0:24:330:24:36

so they're expensive and you need to look after them.

0:24:360:24:40

As the water swirls, it swirls around the whites

0:24:400:24:43

and then you can store them in ice cold water.

0:24:430:24:46

If you've got lots of people around for Christmas,

0:24:460:24:48

you could do this for breakfast

0:24:480:24:50

and then just drop them into hot water again.

0:24:500:24:52

How much vinegar do you have to use?

0:24:520:24:54

There's a couple of tablespoons in there, just to set the egg anyway.

0:24:540:24:58

So, you were saying crab. Any fish that people could be buying, or not?

0:24:580:25:02

I think at this time of year,

0:25:020:25:06

you can get a good bit of turbot and brill

0:25:060:25:08

if you fancy something on the bone.

0:25:080:25:10

That's a really nice fish to use.

0:25:100:25:13

Um... Mostly... A lot of shellfish,

0:25:130:25:16

scallops are very, very good at this time of year, as well.

0:25:160:25:19

But generally, the thing is, fish has a reputation for being

0:25:190:25:24

a summery thing but actually it's better in the winter.

0:25:240:25:27

When the water's colder, the fish is better.

0:25:270:25:29

The problem is, obviously, the fishermen getting out.

0:25:290:25:32

It's difficult with the weather. They do a fantastic job this time of year,

0:25:320:25:35

getting fish for lots of hungry people in the festive period.

0:25:350:25:38

This one's available everywhere, that you're doing now.

0:25:380:25:42

Smoked fish is fantastic.

0:25:420:25:43

It's a great way of using fish up, as well, preserving it.

0:25:430:25:47

This is smoked haddock.

0:25:470:25:49

I've got smoked haddock here that's just been poached.

0:25:490:25:51

A piece like this will take five or six minutes to poach in some

0:25:510:25:55

milk or you could just steam it.

0:25:550:25:57

Bake it, as well, in a bit of foil if you wanted to.

0:25:570:26:00

A food heaven of mine for another show that I just happened to do is Arbroath Smokies.

0:26:000:26:05

You must have had them.

0:26:050:26:06

Arbroath Smokies out of the newspaper that you have in Scotland,

0:26:060:26:10

I just think they're magical.

0:26:100:26:12

-Do you smoke your own fish down there, Nathan?

-Yeah, we do, yeah.

0:26:120:26:15

Definitely. One of the reasons why I really cook with fish

0:26:150:26:20

is it challenges me as a chef.

0:26:200:26:22

I think it's a fantastic product and obviously,

0:26:220:26:25

with the sustainability issues of fish,

0:26:250:26:27

you have to be more creative with the lesser-known species.

0:26:270:26:30

That gives you a challenge as a chef,

0:26:300:26:32

and it's good for the customer, as well.

0:26:320:26:34

They see something they haven't seen before.

0:26:340:26:36

And the great thing is that if you smoke your own,

0:26:360:26:38

you're in control of how deeply smoked it is.

0:26:380:26:41

There's nothing worse, I think,

0:26:410:26:42

than buying a smoked fish that's too heavily smoked.

0:26:420:26:46

Some fish, obviously, you've got to buy good quality smoked fish.

0:26:460:26:51

It is one of those things.

0:26:510:26:53

They do cut corners when they're producing smoked fish.

0:26:530:26:56

This is good quality stuff. The mixture of these is good.

0:26:560:27:00

You've got the oily, smoked mackerel, the smoked salmon, which is a bit decadent, I suppose,

0:27:000:27:04

and then smoked haddock is quite a northern thing, isn't it?

0:27:040:27:07

-It's a northern thing?

-A northern thing?

-North-eastern coast, yeah.

0:27:070:27:11

Haddock's got that reputation of being a fish

0:27:110:27:14

that comes from the northern areas.

0:27:140:27:17

I know my grandad was very happy to have a bit of haddock.

0:27:170:27:19

One of each and a bag of scraps. You guys down there haven't got a clue what we're talking about.

0:27:190:27:24

-I know what scraps is.

-No, one of each.

0:27:240:27:26

-One of each, what's one of each?

-One of each and a bag of scraps.

0:27:260:27:28

I don't know what one of each is. What's that?

0:27:280:27:31

Fish and chips. One of each.

0:27:310:27:33

-OK. I didn't know that.

-One of each.

0:27:330:27:35

One of each fish?

0:27:350:27:37

-You want me to write it down?

-It's known as once.

0:27:370:27:39

To save words. I'll have once, please.

0:27:390:27:42

-Once, is that what it is?

-That's what we call it, once.

0:27:420:27:45

You're losing me. All this northern lingo, I'm lost.

0:27:450:27:48

OK, so what you're going to do is stir that,

0:27:500:27:52

but don't break it up too much

0:27:520:27:54

because you still want to see all the different fish that's in there.

0:27:540:27:57

You put quite a bit of black pepper in there, as well.

0:27:570:27:59

I think smoked fish, black pepper.

0:27:590:28:01

Something like this, I might even serve a bit

0:28:010:28:04

-of horseradish sauce on the side.

-Now you've just destroyed it!

0:28:040:28:07

Let me tell you, Nathan, if you were cooking turkey,

0:28:070:28:09

James Martin would say you only put the pepper on to cover up the flavours.

0:28:090:28:13

He's not saying that to you but he'd be saying that to me.

0:28:130:28:16

-He's being nice to me.

-I do feel a little bit out of place today,

0:28:160:28:19

because Nathan's got two Michelin stars. What are you, CBE?

0:28:190:28:21

-Yes, chef. OBE?

-Yes, sir.

0:28:210:28:24

-And you're a C?

-Hmm.

-And I've got a 25 metre swimming badge.

0:28:240:28:28

It's Michael Crawford.

0:28:280:28:30

You know, but anyway...

0:28:300:28:32

The eggs going on?

0:28:320:28:34

Nice and simple with the poached eggs on top. A few herbs.

0:28:340:28:36

I've got a mixture of parsley, chives and tarragon.

0:28:360:28:39

-And that's it. It's as simple as that.

-And that's it.

0:28:390:28:42

You guys better come over and have a taste of this.

0:28:420:28:45

-We're going to serve it all in one pan?

-Like that, on the table.

0:28:450:28:48

-Stick it on there, then. Let's dive into this.

-A great breakfast dish.

0:28:480:28:52

-Dive into that.

-Great brunchy dish.

-Nice, innit, that?

-That looks great.

0:28:540:28:57

Lovely. Lots of colour, that's the nice thing about it.

0:28:570:29:00

Naturally smoked haddock.

0:29:020:29:04

-And duck egg.

-Such a good combination.

0:29:050:29:08

Still to come on Christmas Kitchen, Brian Turner will be trying

0:29:080:29:10

to perform a Christmas miracle

0:29:100:29:12

when he creates a tasty turkey dish that even I can enjoy.

0:29:120:29:15

But first, let's delve into the BBC's festive food archive

0:29:150:29:18

with a visit to Nigel Slater for a winter salad

0:29:180:29:21

made from the gardens of Chatsworth House.

0:29:210:29:24

I think my garden is at its most magical after a sprinkling of snow.

0:29:280:29:33

Everything feels like it's fast asleep under a duvet of white.

0:29:330:29:38

But if I had to rely on my garden to feed me

0:29:380:29:40

through these winter months, I'd be in serious trouble.

0:29:400:29:44

Which is why I'm so envious of the kitchen garden at Chatsworth.

0:29:440:29:48

It provides fresh veg for the estate's house, shops

0:29:520:29:56

and cafes every day, whatever the season.

0:29:560:29:58

'I'm dying to find out from gardener, Adrian, just how they do it.'

0:30:020:30:06

So the Duke and Duchess give you a shopping list?

0:30:060:30:08

Well, in a morning I will phone the kitchens up

0:30:080:30:11

and chef will give me a list of what she requires for the day.

0:30:110:30:14

Then I'll harvest it and take it down to the private kitchens.

0:30:140:30:17

So, essentially, it's like a shopping list in a way.

0:30:170:30:19

'They've got things growing here that I'd never normally

0:30:200:30:23

'get my hands on in the winter.

0:30:230:30:25

'So I'm hoping I can pinch a few bits to rustle up a warming salad.'

0:30:250:30:30

What have you got in your greenhouses?

0:30:310:30:34

A whole number of things, from salad leaf, I've got rocket,

0:30:340:30:37

chicory, parsley. I've got dill, coriander.

0:30:370:30:39

I've got chervil, I've even got Cape gooseberries.

0:30:390:30:42

-In fact, if you'd like to come inside...

-I'd love to.

-..and have a quick look.

0:30:420:30:46

-So you've got some little salad leaves coming on?

-Yes.

0:30:460:30:49

These here. These are actually Pak choi, Chinese cabbage,

0:30:490:30:51

which look amazing on a plate.

0:30:510:30:54

Absolutely beautiful.

0:30:540:30:56

On your windowsill, they'll be just as good as that.

0:30:560:30:58

-I don't need a greenhouse to do that?

-No. No, not at all. Not at all.

0:30:580:31:03

-They're so juicy.

-Yeah.

0:31:030:31:04

-It's such a luxury having salad in the winter.

-Oh, yeah.

0:31:060:31:09

-We have lemongrass.

-This is lemongrass?

0:31:090:31:12

Yeah, lemongrass grows quite happily.

0:31:120:31:14

It's easy to get lemongrass seed.

0:31:140:31:17

You can sow it on your windowsill, but you must keep it warm for it to germinate.

0:31:170:31:21

-Just cut the bottom off...

-That's the tender bit inside.

-Yes.

0:31:210:31:23

-Can I stick that in my salad?

-Yeah.

0:31:230:31:26

It's just amazing.

0:31:260:31:29

'Just a couple more veg and I can't wait to get cooking.'

0:31:290:31:33

Celeriac...

0:31:330:31:34

I think there's some in here.

0:31:340:31:37

-On a really cold day, I like hot things.

-Yeah.

0:31:400:31:44

I like mustardy things, or a bit of chilli,

0:31:440:31:47

just something that will thaw out the freezing cold.

0:31:470:31:51

And, horseradish works very well.

0:31:510:31:53

In fact, I'm sort of tempted to put a bit of horseradish on this salad.

0:31:530:31:56

-You grow it, don't you?

-I can grab you some.

-Could I have a root?

0:31:560:31:59

-Oh, well done.

-There you are.

0:32:050:32:06

Good stuff, isn't it?

0:32:100:32:11

'Fresh horseradish like this doesn't need much else.'

0:32:110:32:15

Lovely.

0:32:150:32:16

'Maybe just a drizzle of olive oil and some black pepper.

0:32:160:32:19

You know what, I forgot to put a tiny bit of lemongrass in there.

0:32:190:32:25

It's just not often I get the chance to use lemongrass, as fresh as that.

0:32:250:32:29

Finish with a pinch of smoked paprika and it's ready to go.

0:32:290:32:33

It's going to be so fresh, as well, because it's only

0:32:380:32:41

15 minutes ago since these were harvested.

0:32:410:32:44

You think of winter stuff as being a bit bland and stodgy

0:32:440:32:48

but actually I'd really rather have flavours that were hot

0:32:480:32:51

and bright and refreshing and clean tasting.

0:32:510:32:54

Also, after Christmas, you know...

0:32:540:32:56

-Oh, yeah, after Christmas.

-I want something to wake me up.

0:32:560:32:59

So...

0:32:590:33:00

I'm going to have a proper mouthful,

0:33:000:33:03

make sure I get a bit of everything?

0:33:030:33:05

Mmm.

0:33:070:33:08

That is genuinely very, very nice.

0:33:080:33:10

That's lovely because I'm normally a real carnivore.

0:33:100:33:13

I wouldn't normally eat something like that. If I ate a plateful of that I'd be full.

0:33:130:33:16

You could put some shreds of cold turkey in that, a bit of cold ham.

0:33:160:33:20

-Thank you very much for those ingredients.

-No problem at all.

0:33:200:33:25

Thank you very much, indeed.

0:33:250:33:26

Right, we've come to my favourite part of the programme

0:33:260:33:28

when Brian Turner attempts to make turkey tasty in a challenge called,

0:33:280:33:33

Brian Turner's Turkey Challenge!

0:33:330:33:35

TURKEY GOBBLING

0:33:350:33:37

-And an amazing jumper you've got there, chef.

-Do you like that?

0:33:370:33:40

-Can you read that?

-I can read it but can you read this?

0:33:400:33:44

LAUGHTER

0:33:440:33:47

I've got one too, I've got one too.

0:33:470:33:49

I dare you to present the rest of it standing like that.

0:33:490:33:52

It would be a lot better for us, anyway.

0:33:520:33:55

-What are we going to make then, chef?

-This time...

0:33:550:33:58

TURKEY GOBBLES

0:33:580:33:59

-What are we going to make?

-This time...

0:33:590:34:02

This time we are going to season it with black pudding

0:34:020:34:06

and I want you to make some croutons for me, please.

0:34:060:34:09

-I paid the cameraman 20 quid.

-Good lad.

0:34:090:34:11

And a bit of bacon and black pudding into timbales.

0:34:110:34:14

I've got a pan on here, nice and hot.

0:34:140:34:15

What we're going to do first is take the black pudding

0:34:150:34:18

and slice it into thin slices.

0:34:180:34:20

I like this black pudding we've got here

0:34:200:34:22

because it's got little, tiny bits of fat in it, not big lumps, which is really not my favourite.

0:34:220:34:28

I prefer black pudding when it's like that rather than smooth.

0:34:280:34:31

I agree with that. I agree with that and you need...

0:34:310:34:34

It's just the flavour you get.

0:34:340:34:35

Everybody's got their own personally private one.

0:34:350:34:38

We'll just stick that under the skins.

0:34:380:34:40

If you're in a two-star Michelin restaurant,

0:34:400:34:43

you'd normally do this with truffle

0:34:430:34:45

but we come from Yorkshire and he knows about the northern things

0:34:450:34:48

-so it's black pudding, chef.

-OK. Right.

-Black pudding goes in there.

0:34:480:34:51

What is that mark on there, chef? That's another wart again?

0:34:510:34:54

-No, it's where it slipped trying to escape.

-Look at that!

0:34:540:34:57

-It is not a wart!

-What is it, then?

0:34:570:34:59

I don't know what you..I don't know what you were like as a child.

0:34:590:35:02

It's like a growth, or something like.

0:35:020:35:04

So outrageous as a child. I must talk to your mother when I see her next,

0:35:040:35:08

tell her why didn't she make you eat all this stuff, for goodness' sake.

0:35:080:35:11

-She did, that's what's put me off it.

-OK, so, tie it nice and tight.

0:35:110:35:15

That's the secret. Take your time.

0:35:150:35:17

Make it look pretty.

0:35:170:35:19

How are you going to do that, then?

0:35:190:35:21

It's not a beautiful bird, is it?

0:35:210:35:23

-No, it's not beautiful.

-You're ganging up now.

0:35:230:35:25

As a guest on this show, I think you should be more polite!

0:35:250:35:28

-Stop siding with the boss man!

-How'd do you make that pretty, then, chef?

0:35:290:35:34

Well, because you make it a really nice shape, which it's looking now.

0:35:340:35:37

I think it's looking lovely.

0:35:370:35:38

-You're making it to what looks like a chicken.

-OK. Right, fine.

0:35:380:35:41

-So then plenty of butter on top.

-Yeah.

0:35:410:35:44

Salt and pepper, and that's not the largest of turkey breasts.

0:35:440:35:48

It won't take too long to cook.

0:35:480:35:51

Probably we'll cook that in 35 to 40 minutes.

0:35:510:35:53

I think that will take 2.5 days, that.

0:35:530:35:56

-It's the way you do 'em!

-Eh?

0:35:560:35:58

Let me get this over here into the oven.

0:35:580:36:01

That's good. Let me bring this over here.

0:36:040:36:07

Let me just talk about this because it has been rested,

0:36:070:36:10

it has been rested this for about 30 minutes since it came out.

0:36:100:36:15

Thank you very much, that's very kind.

0:36:150:36:17

It is quite important... What have you got?

0:36:170:36:19

The one that you just put in there is half the size

0:36:190:36:21

of the one that's out here!

0:36:210:36:23

-Did you not say you wanted me to do a miracle today?

-Yeah.

0:36:230:36:26

This is the miracle!

0:36:260:36:28

I put a small one in and I brought a big one out!

0:36:280:36:31

I put one into feed three and I brought it out to feed 12.

0:36:310:36:35

-That's what it's all about at this time of year.

-That's Christmas time.

0:36:350:36:38

-Yeah, exactly.

-Just go back to your timbale that you've got over here.

0:36:380:36:42

-Timbale's a bit fancy, isn't it, chef?

-It's nice, isn't it?

0:36:420:36:44

I've got a bit of cling film to help take them out afterwards.

0:36:440:36:47

When did they invent timbales?

0:36:470:36:49

About the time that I left Leeds to come to London, I think.

0:36:490:36:52

It's a French term. You've seen timbales all over.

0:36:520:36:54

We've got bacon in here.

0:36:540:36:56

We've got the breadcrumbs that we are just browning and crisping,

0:36:560:36:59

the bread cubes, I should say, which we are browning up there.

0:36:590:37:02

A bit of butter will help that.

0:37:020:37:03

-We need some double cream, some eggs and the black pudding.

-It's in there.

0:37:030:37:07

Bit of parsley...

0:37:070:37:09

-Have we got salt and pepper in there yet, young man?

-No, no not yet.

0:37:090:37:12

-Good man, thank you very much, it's very kind.

-Salt.

0:37:120:37:14

Where would you say the best black pudding comes from,

0:37:140:37:17

-and don't say "Lancashire"?

-No, I wouldn't.

0:37:170:37:20

-The one that I've enjoyed the most...

-I would say Lancashire.

0:37:200:37:23

No, no, mine came from Scotland, just outside Glenfarclas distillery.

0:37:230:37:28

A local butcher there, I can't remember his name

0:37:280:37:31

but it was delicious and it actually had this lovely fineness about it,

0:37:310:37:35

a bit of barley in there, as well, which I thought was great.

0:37:350:37:38

OK, we need a spoon.

0:37:380:37:40

You are going to like this next bit

0:37:400:37:42

because these timbales we are going to cook on bain-marie, yeah.

0:37:420:37:46

He's changed, you see, he's changed. That's a tray of hot watter, chef.

0:37:460:37:50

"It's a tray of hot watter," you're right!

0:37:500:37:53

You've been down south too long, you've changed!

0:37:530:37:55

Listen, I'm trying to get round to keep up with you now

0:37:550:37:58

to make it actually work. I'm trying to please you.

0:37:580:38:01

-Les timbales are cooked in a bain-marie.

-Yeah.

0:38:010:38:04

Just fasten those up for me, chef, there's a good man.

0:38:040:38:07

-Fasten them up? OK.

-Seal them up, James.

-Seal them up.

0:38:070:38:10

-So we've got clingfilm in there?

-Yeah.

0:38:100:38:12

We'll cook them in a water bath.

0:38:120:38:14

-Will people do this at Christmas?

-The nice thing about this,

0:38:140:38:16

you can do it a day in advance,

0:38:160:38:18

stick them in the fridge, put them into the watter and off you go.

0:38:180:38:21

-Right.

-I don't see why they shouldn't because, actually,

0:38:210:38:23

do you have breakfast on Christmas Day?

0:38:230:38:25

You don't have turkey, it's pointless talking to you!

0:38:250:38:28

-Do you have breakfast on Christmas Day?

-They don't have turkey, either. Haven't you been watching?

0:38:280:38:32

Does anybody have breakfast? Does anybody eat turkey?

0:38:320:38:34

Right, here we go. Those go into the oven. Let's take these out.

0:38:340:38:38

We've also got some posh roast potatoes for you, as well.

0:38:380:38:41

How long are you going to cook that for?

0:38:410:38:43

Those were cooked for about half an hour but the beauty is

0:38:430:38:45

they don't take a lot of cooking, they just really need to be set up.

0:38:450:38:50

So we've got our garnish...

0:38:500:38:53

Get these ready for me.

0:38:530:38:55

-What do you want, these?

-Take them out and demoule them.

0:38:550:38:58

That means take them out of the mould!

0:38:580:39:01

I've got my roast potatoes here which we call a pommes fondant, which is

0:39:010:39:04

half roast and half braised in turkey stock and thyme.

0:39:040:39:10

-Chicken stock, I reckon that was.

-Scissors, here we go, I've some here.

0:39:100:39:13

It is very important that you rest this turkey breast when it comes out.

0:39:130:39:17

Why is that? Why is that, Brian?

0:39:170:39:18

It'll tenderise and get the moisture running back through the bird.

0:39:180:39:22

It will just make it more evenly tasting.

0:39:220:39:24

The thing is, and you should remember this, all roast meats

0:39:240:39:27

-should actually... Well done, are you doing...

-It's hot!

0:39:270:39:30

That's the best thing, that's why they're in the oven, chef.

0:39:300:39:33

-It's actually to keep them hot.

-Have you got the scissors?

0:39:330:39:35

I've got the scissors. You can have the scissors in...

0:39:350:39:38

-I'd keep the string on, it's the most tender part of the turkey.

-Find your own scissors!

0:39:380:39:42

LAUGHTER

0:39:420:39:43

-Right.

-Please just remember to take the string off.

0:39:430:39:48

This is the time when most people put their glasses on.

0:39:480:39:51

I've done that without glasses, which is good news. There we go.

0:39:510:39:54

-That's ready to go.

-They look like little Christmas puddings, though.

0:39:540:39:57

They do look like Christmas puddings but don't eat them with rum sauce.

0:39:570:40:01

-Right.

-They're perfect...

0:40:010:40:04

So, we're ready to go. This is the...

0:40:040:40:09

-Don't worry.

-James, will you stop throwing them.

0:40:090:40:11

They're not tennis balls!

0:40:110:40:13

-This is the moment of revelation.

-Revelation!

0:40:130:40:16

Just watch the juices ooze from this bird.

0:40:160:40:19

We cut them into nice slices, fairly thick slices, I think works well.

0:40:190:40:23

I'm holding the bowl here ready for the juices to fall out.

0:40:230:40:26

It's all right, I'm going to put the juices back into it, chef!

0:40:260:40:30

-So nice...

-It is like a sponge, though. It's like eating a sponge.

0:40:320:40:36

When was the last time you ate a proper sponge?

0:40:360:40:38

-Yesterday!

-No, that's out of order.

-You cooked it!

0:40:380:40:43

-You're so rude.

-You do need to put quite a bit of sauce with turkey.

0:40:430:40:47

I find it soaks everything up.

0:40:470:40:50

There are lots of dishes that are good served with sauce.

0:40:500:40:52

I can't believe why you're saying that.

0:40:520:40:55

I mean, there's a good meal there for 12 people.

0:40:550:40:57

These potato fondants go on there, little roast potatoes

0:40:570:41:01

and then these sit...

0:41:010:41:04

Just like that.

0:41:040:41:06

I just think it's a spectacular beginning to the meal.

0:41:060:41:09

You put it on the table, all the kids, the grandparents, the parents.

0:41:090:41:11

You've got plenty of sauce with it, is that right?

0:41:110:41:14

You can just have soup, it wouldn't really matter.

0:41:140:41:17

-I've got some here.

-Right.

0:41:170:41:19

What do you think to that, are we all right there?

0:41:190:41:21

When you said leave it to rest, how long did you leave it to rest for?

0:41:210:41:24

-For about half an hour.

-I had that ready for you to carve it up with.

0:41:240:41:27

-A serrated knife.

-That's very kind. I'll put the gravy on there.

0:41:270:41:30

I think it needs a little bit of greenery, I think, we want in there.

0:41:300:41:33

You better come on over. I've got some greenery for you.

0:41:330:41:36

-We'll use this.

-What have you...?

0:41:360:41:37

-No, no. James.

-That's what you did to me.

-Get out of here.

0:41:370:41:41

I didn't do that to you, off you go.

0:41:410:41:44

-Get out of here! A bit of watercress.

-It looks better like that.

0:41:440:41:47

Gentleman, my life is in your hands.

0:41:470:41:49

OK, it does look good. It looks great.

0:41:490:41:52

That's the starter, it looks good.

0:41:520:41:55

As we all know, it's not all about the looks,

0:41:550:41:58

it's about the taste, you see.

0:41:580:42:00

Some people have looks and no taste!

0:42:000:42:02

I'll definitely go for the ends because that's where it is dry.

0:42:030:42:08

I've got sinew.

0:42:080:42:10

There's no sinew in turkey, it falls apart.

0:42:100:42:12

It's either that or the wart that was on it earlier.

0:42:120:42:15

-I'll have that.

-You can do that.

0:42:150:42:17

I really hope that, Nathan, you are going to be inspired.

0:42:170:42:19

-I'll be cooking fish for New Year's Day.

-Yeah.

0:42:190:42:23

The black pudding's all right.

0:42:230:42:25

Get out of here!

0:42:250:42:26

-Do you want a drink with that, mate?

-It's...

0:42:290:42:32

Every day I decide if Brian Turner's turkey recipe should go

0:42:320:42:35

in our Christmas kitchen book, or in our bin.

0:42:350:42:38

So far we've got about a pamphlet, at the moment,

0:42:380:42:40

for Brian Turner's turkey book.

0:42:400:42:42

Two recipes are in the book.

0:42:420:42:44

Should this one go in there?

0:42:440:42:47

I'm actually pretty positive about this.

0:42:470:42:51

-Really?

-I tell you, and he can sing, an all.

0:42:510:42:54

Nathan? I can see you've got a bit rolling around your mouth.

0:42:540:42:57

I'm just getting there.

0:42:570:42:58

-It's very, very good.

-Excuse me...

0:42:580:43:01

Is it going to be in your new book, though?

0:43:010:43:03

Well, mine's a fish book.

0:43:030:43:05

That's out of order.

0:43:050:43:08

With this being the last show, I'd like to keep with tradition.

0:43:080:43:11

And throw it in the bin.

0:43:120:43:14

ALL GROAN

0:43:140:43:15

Please try the black pudding.

0:43:150:43:17

I hope you have a happy Christmas.

0:43:170:43:19

That's all from us today, on Christmas Kitchen. Thanks to Nathan, Gareth...

0:43:190:43:23

Good luck with the tour in the new year and, of course,

0:43:230:43:26

Ken Hom for letting us into his house.

0:43:260:43:27

And the brilliant Brian Turner!

0:43:270:43:29

TURKEY GOBBLES

0:43:290:43:31

All of today's recipes are on our website,

0:43:310:43:33

go to bbc.co.uk/christmaskitchen

0:43:330:43:36

There are special editions of Saturday Kitchen and Best Bites

0:43:360:43:39

to keep you going and satisfy your appetite until the new year.

0:43:390:43:42

That's all from us today. Have a great Christmas. Bye for now.

0:43:420:43:45

Enjoy your turkey! Whenever you have it!

0:43:450:43:48

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