Episode 2 Christmas Kitchen with James Martin


Episode 2

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Get ready for a festive 45 minutes of great food served piping hot from

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our Christmas kitchen. Hello and welcome to the show.

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Coming up, Matthew Ford invites us round to see what is on his menu but

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this time of year. A Christmas pudding souffle. And we dip into the

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archives to revisit Nigella making some jam and chutney. And the Welsh

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chef who is the toast of Primrose Hill mob Bryn Williams. And the man

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we just cannot seem to get rid of, Brian Turner! My special guest is

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the Hotel Inspector trying to create the perfect Christmas in her own

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show. It is the. Christmas is a busy time for you? It is. I have got two

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kids and I am working and my husband works about 90 hours a week. In the

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bakery. What are you going to make for us? It is a seasonal dish of

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chestnut soup. A lot of flavour. And these are hand dived scallops? They

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are plucked from the bottom of the sea bed. A great treat. It is a bit

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of a luxury. Brian, you are here again to try to convince everyone

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that we should all been eating turkey. Well the turkey dish is one

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that you would really eat before Christmas or during the year. It is

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turkey fillets with some Parma ham. It is a classic dish. I am not sure

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about that one. You will have to convince me! Well now we are going

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to do this deep-fried soft-boiled eggs with some wild mushrooms and

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truffle mayonnaise. Christmas is a busy time of the year. You could

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make this in advance. The key to it is the boiled egg.

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make this in advance. The key to it You take some vinegar and a pinch of

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salt and then you put in the eggs. Three medium-sized egg. Ice-cold

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water, five and a half minutes. We serve that with brioche and wild

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mushrooms. Next year looks busy for you as well with everything you have

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been doing. Yes I have been filming another Hotel Inspector and that has

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been such fun. You still find it as fun as it always has been? I do love

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it, I enjoy every single minute. I am still amazed there are still more

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hapless hoteliers for me to help! What is the problem? I always find

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if you have got a good shower and nice hellos, you're halfway there.

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Quite a lot of the hoteliers I talk to have even got those basics wrong.

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I refuse now to stay anywhere that does not have a mattress protector.

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A budget help -- hotel in particular, you want to make sure

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that your bed is clean. A lot of places do not even manage that, not

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even a hot Ratcliff. That is the key. I like proper ingredients. I

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like it to be organic where possible. Well you certainly have

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got experience from it. Watching the series, it did not really point out

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way you come from in the hotel industry. My grandfather is credited

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with reinventing British hotels after the Second World War.

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Trusthouse Forte had about 800 hotels at the peak. So he did lead

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the way. So I think I have got a bit of a pedigree. And you're using your

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experience for this new show on BBC Two? So my Christmas show is about

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busy mothers, and usually it is mothers, that you can make

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everything look great without half killing yourself. Everyone is so

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pressured at this time of year and there are also the school plays and

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all the presents to buy and cards to send. You end up completely

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frazzled. Hopefully this is showing that you can have some fun as well.

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So it is a bit of everything. Is it the entire Christmas, all the way

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through? I have got some items from professionals, people who do it

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better than anyone else. I think with my hotel background I lay a

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pretty good table. But I had help wrapping presents, doing the table

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centrepiece, lighting. I have wrapped it up a gear and really

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enjoyed it. Well we can see a little bit, a clip to show you. This will

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be useful for Brian! Wrapping up bottles. I love Christmas and I am

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obsessed with wrapping and you live the Queen.

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Something that we all dread, the bottle.

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I am grabbing on to the bottle so that it does not move. We need to

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keep pulling it up all the time to get a bit of tension. You have got

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to be quite brutal. With cellophane you can give it a good type. -- tug.

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I do need some more practice! I have somebody in my office who does it!

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You invited them into your home as well, that is quite brave. I did

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have to search might conscience about that. Ultimately I suppose

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that it is real. I had a couple of days rushing around for the camera

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crew came in trying to make the house look nice and tidying things

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away. It was a good way to start Christmas. These eggs are now done.

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You could easily make these before Christmas. Just fine some mushrooms

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and a little bit of stock. And we are going to make some mayonnaise

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using this rapeseed oil. It is fantastic stuff. Some egg yolks and

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some mustard and vinegar all going in there. It will begin to get

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bigger. I have got some truffle. You can use truffle oil or truffle

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essence just to give it a lift. But I have got a bit of truffle left

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over. Very Christmas like. Now in January we have got a new programme

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coming out, on the 19th of December. On BBC Two. And then January,

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something else as well? I have just filmed the last Hotel Inspector and

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that comes out in spring. So life is busy. I love it. It is a really good

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combination. I managed to work it run the family. And in this series

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of the Hotel Inspector you go back to see some people again. Yes it is

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interesting. I enjoyed it more than I expected. It is such fun going

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round the country and seeing different bits. I am so London based

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otherwise. And it is interesting how different things are now when you

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get outside the M25. Well hopefully they might put this dish on the menu

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in those hotels. We have got some toasted brioche which is wonderful.

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Wild mushrooms. Brian would do this with button mushrooms. And then

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there's truffle. The fresh truffle. You can actually buy these now from

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supermarkets. But just supplement it with a bit of truffle oil. A bit of

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salt and pepper. This is also great with smoke salmon. The eggs have

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just been soft-boiled. Just like that. The idea is when you break

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into it there is a nice liquid centre. And then some of this over

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the top. And this is the truffle mayonnaise. When I look at the Hotel

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Inspector I always find it is personal decor that lets the hotels

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down. I think it is a bit unfair to judge people's personal taste. I am

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not a Martha Stewart. I do not think everything should be pale or match

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perfectly. But people's personal space is different from public,

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commercial spaces. And hoteliers have to realise that. Well we look

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forward to those programmes. Especially the one on the 19th of

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this month. I will break up these eggs. You want to time them at five

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and a half minutes. You can see that they are lovely and soft in the

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centre. And that creates a nice dressing as well. You can get your

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husband to make the brioche. Happy with that? The turkey coming up! We

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have been looking in to the home of great British menu judge Matthew. He

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is showing us how to make a Christmas souffle.

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When it comes to Christmas I am traditional. I love carol services

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and midnight mass. Mistletoe and crackers. And I loved roast turkey,

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that smell of caramel and richness. I love the smell of Christmas

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pudding, the spice and the fruit. The wonderful sense of warmth and

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comfort. I have got just the recipe. Let us go into the kitchen.

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You know the problem, at the end of Christmas lunch or dinner you cannot

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face another mouthful and someone brings on the Christmas pudding

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flaming in brandy. You think oh golly, I just cannot face it. By

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turning it into a souffle you get all of the flavours, all the fruit,

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the nuts and spices. But just reduced to a beautiful airy desert.

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First off, we always have brandy butter with Christmas pudding. But

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even better is rum butter. I have gone and bought some. Any left over

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is for the chef. The essential thing of making rum butter ice cream is

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the ice cream part. I just put in two egg yolks like that. I will just

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them both together. -- bland those together. What is ice cream without

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cream? And so, in we go. Keep on beating. Or in the cream. -- pour

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the cream. There is something mesmerising about good cream. That

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is thickening up. Now, I will add a splash of milk. That will help to

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lighten it up. We whisked that. And that is ready to be put into the ice

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cream machine and be churned until it is light and fluffy. Add now for

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the clever bit. Let's put the milk over here to heat up. The next thing

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to do is to tip the Christmas pudding into the food processor. I

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am now going to add the cakes. -- egg yolks. It is becoming a lighter

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mixture. I will put in the remainder of the eggs. The smell. It is all of

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Christmas. You do not need to eat it, really. Now, this is the tricky

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bit. Let's have a taste of that. That is

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so delicious. The next stage is to beat the eggs. Using a big whisked,

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whisk like that. It is coming on beautifully well. Now, we are ready

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for the final folding. We put in one third. You turn it over. The idea is

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to incorporate as much of the air as possible. You do not want to beat it

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out. Be gentle about it. It takes a little time. What else are you going

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to do on Christmas Day? People seem to be afraid of making souffle, but

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I cannot think why. It is very simple. If it tastes as good as it

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looks and smells, anybody who eats it on Christmas Day will have a

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memory for the rest of their lives. It is ready for the oven, 190

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Celsius, gas mark five. Bon voyage. That is magnificent. I am gobsmacked

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how lovely that is. Dusting of icing sugar over the top. What is

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Christmas pudding without brandy butter, or, even better, rum butter,

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particularly in ice cream form? It has that sort of light airiness in

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the souffle. It has an almost cakes like texture from the pudding. There

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is the melting sweetness of the rum butter. It is just about the most

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beautiful thing I have eaten in a long time. Let's have just a little

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bit more. And a very happy Christmas to you all.

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Souffle, very brave. He seems happy. I think it is to add venture a song

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Christmas Day, but if you have any spare, use it a couple of days

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afterwards -- to an adventurous. Brian Turner will try to convince us

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that Turkey tastes better than it looks in the great Turkey challenge.

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He will cook a seasonal soup. For that, festive favourites. My

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Christmas tip is to never be too ambitious. In other words, cook only

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dishes you really know and you are confident about. And have fun. One

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of the biggest problems with people at Christmas is they panic and start

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to do something they have not done before, trying to be like a

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restaurant. They get too stressed out. Chill out, have a great time.

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The problem is you spend so much time in the kitchen cooking far too

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much should and complicated food. Keep it simple with a side of smoked

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salmon, slicing it, with bread, scrambled eggs, and a really nice to

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roast -- nice roast dinner. I think roast duck is the most delicious

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thing on Christmas Day. If you want a red wine that goes with Turkey and

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roast salmon, might tip would be Pinot Noir. On a budget, go to

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Chile, then go to New Zealand, and if you want to splash out, go to

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Burgundy in France. And now it is time for Christmas cheer. I am

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making a simple soup. Parsnips with chestnuts and scallops. A bit of

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luxury. We will do a classic soup. Normally, you would use onions, but

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this time, leek. You could roast off the parsnips if you wanted that

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roasted flavour. At the chestnuts. -- add. We are peeling them, but you

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can deep-fried the peelings. As you said before, this dish, you could

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start it off way before, a couple of days before Christmas, have the soup

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ready and serve it for Christmas Day. Christmas Day, I am with Brian

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Turner, as less work as possible on Christmas Day. It is about having

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things ready. People try to do too much. They do not prepare enough. Do

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the soup the day before, do your Turkey, whatever you're doing, on

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the actual day, and that is enough. If you wanted, you could roast of

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the parsnips now. They are fantastic at this time of year with Sherry, if

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you pour that over the top. I would not peel them. Scrap them down. --

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scrub. If you roast them, honey, soya sauce, and chopped rosemary is

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really nice. Now we will add the chestnuts. These are obtained. They

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are already cooked. They have that roasted smell. They are inside 18 in

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a bag. You can get them sous-vide. They are a lovely flavour. It is a

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lot of work. This is a simple recipe. Chicken stock. You can use

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vegetable stock, but if you use that, it is too sweet. Scallops. You

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have the rounded shell and the fact shell. Take the flat shell and I

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like to use a table knife rather than a chef's knife, so you do not

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damage it too much. Put the knife along the flat shell to open them.

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Beautiful. Imagine the soup has come to the boil, you simmer it for 20

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minutes. It is a busy time of year for you. One of the first Christmas

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is your restaurant has been open throughout the season. We normally

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close around Christmas but we are closing for three weeks in January.

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We are refurbishing with a new kitchen and new toys for the chefs!

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We are changing some of the restaurant and closing for three

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weeks, which is why we are open for that length of time. Do you have

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turkey the menu? Not in the restaurant. I have it at home

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sometimes. I can take it or leave it. I will put this on now. If it is

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cooked properly, I will eat it. If it has been placed in the oven for

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three hours, taken out and served, I cannot do with that. It needs to be

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cooked more. That is the problem, many people do not cook it correct

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Lee, they'd try it out. Being a professional chef, and you are

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learning to be a great chef! It would always be perfect in your

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house. I did it one year for the family and took the legs off. I

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cooked the Crown and she went mental, she did not enjoy it. She

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thought, where is the turkey? I chopped it up and she was not too

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happy so that was the first and last time I did Turkey in my house. We

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pass this. As professional chefs we like to pass things. There is no

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cream in this. The parsnips, the starch is thick enough to thicken

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the soup. The chestnuts give it colour. And also thickness. And then

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put it in the fridge, a couple of days in advance, and then breach --

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bring it out. Turkey soup always tastes better a view days later.

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Open the scallops and cut them in half. I will see the scallops. You

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do not have to cook them all the way through because we will serve them

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in a bowl with the nice hot soup. If the soup is a little bit thick, add

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some stock. This will not discolour? The chestnuts will make

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it go brown. I mentioned the restaurant is busy. You have your

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second book out also. This recipe is about vegetables, about showing what

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you can do with vegetables rather than boiling, steaming and roasting.

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It was highlighting what else you could do with different vegetables.

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Any other soup if people do not like parsnips and chestnuts? Like Alex

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Polizzi! It is a setup. It is nice that you do research when you come

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on the programme! Parmesan soup goes well with the scallops. Keep things

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seasonal. Butternut squash? I would. That looks lovely. It looks bouncy.

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Just the soup on its own, wonderful. We have kept chestnuts back and we

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are going to great them. That gives texture. I say to my daughter, she

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has two try everything. Chestnuts, when you find them, you can find

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them in a tin. You can sometimes have a puree. But do not buy a sweet

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one. You have not put into much. With a big meal after, that is a

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nice start. There is no cream. Lots of flavour. What makes it is the

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scallops. And not the parsnips! You cook game in the restaurant. This

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would be fantastic with pheasant. Roast chestnuts with game birds,

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lovely. Do not overcooked the scallops because when you pour in

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the hot soup, they will keep on cooking. Do you think people get

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frightened about cooking scallops? Do not overcooked them, that is the

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key to it. Converted with past its? No. Wait for the next bit. Brian

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Turner is continuing with his quest to make turkey tasty. First, we will

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pay a visit to Nigella. Something so comforting about

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reading old cookery books, especially these, this is my stash

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of chutney and jelly and pickling and preserving books. This one,

:28:31.:28:35.

let's preserve it, is a fantastic title. I'd bought it at a

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second-hand book shop in Cornwall, ages ago. It is almost as old as me

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and cost 28 shillings at the time will stop preserving is cosy. Things

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in jars and cans. At this time of year particularly, the idea of

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filling up shelves and hunkering down, it makes you feel warmer and

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safer. And also chutneys and jellies do a double duty, making great

:29:07.:29:10.

presence and they are imperative for leftovers. If you have not had a

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leftover turkey turkey sandwich without my jelly. Put them in the

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process and you are away. without my jelly. Put them in the

:29:29.:29:35.

Beautiful. Right, you need jam sugar for this, that makes it easy. Jam

:29:36.:29:40.

sugar is sugar that has pectin added. Look at that snowy mountain.

:29:41.:29:52.

Otherwise, it is so much work. On top of the sugar, cider vinegar.

:29:53.:30:05.

I want the sugar to dissolve into the vinegar but it is important not

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to stir it. Because the jelly should be clear. And now time to add this

:30:17.:30:27.

incredible Christmas confetti. The colour seeps into the vinegar so you

:30:28.:30:33.

end up with a coral jelly flecked with fiery crimson. Turn up the heat

:30:34.:30:43.

because this needs to come to a volcanic boil for about ten

:30:44.:30:49.

minutes. Take a look at it every now and again because I do not want it

:30:50.:30:58.

to boil over. This is really hot stuff. I am just

:30:59.:31:07.

going to let it cool a little bit. As it cools those beautiful flecks

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of pepper will just disburse evenly. I do not trust myself to

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poor neatly. So I am going to use the label to put it into these jars.

:31:23.:31:39.

-- ladle. It does double duty, it is a Christmas gift that you want to

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give or indeed receive. But you have two keep some back because for me it

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is compulsory with Christmas leftovers. This should keep the home

:31:51.:32:11.

fires burning over Christmas. There are some pickles that I have

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to have in the store cupboard all year round, but some just say

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Christmas. For many years I had a godfather who would send me some

:32:24.:32:28.

crystallised ginger for Christmas. I use to think what kind of present is

:32:29.:32:33.

that? But when I got a bit older I thought that I could use it in

:32:34.:32:39.

cooking and I started to use it in my chutney. And now it just makes

:32:40.:32:44.

Christmas and it is straightforward to make. Peel and chop cooking

:32:45.:32:51.

apples, beetroot and red onion. Great in some fresh ginger and chop

:32:52.:32:59.

up some crystallised ginger as well. The peppery warmth of the ginger

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does counter the get the sweet as of the beetroot and shop less of the

:33:07.:33:12.

Apple. It makes the perfect chutney. Sprinkle in some soft brown sugar,

:33:13.:33:18.

some salt and ground allspice. For over some red wine vinegar and then

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turn the heat on and let it come to a boil. Let it bubble for about an

:33:26.:33:31.

hour and then most of it will be mushy but you will have some chunks

:33:32.:33:38.

of beetroot. Then just pour it into your sterilised pop. There should be

:33:39.:33:51.

enough for about six. - pots. Over Christmas three quarters of you

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will serve turkey on Christmas Day. The rest of us are highly

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intelligent! Brian Turner has got another turkey recipe to tempt us in

:34:04.:34:15.

his turkey challenge! The second jumper on the list as well! What are

:34:16.:34:24.

we going to do? These turkey dishes are not all for Christmas Day. This

:34:25.:34:33.

one is definitely not. You can buy these, this is quite a large turkey

:34:34.:34:40.

breast, I have to say. It has got rings like a piece of wood!

:34:41.:34:49.

Underneath, it has got this lovely visit. -- fillet. You can put that

:34:50.:35:04.

aside to use on another occasion. Is it because it is tougher at that

:35:05.:35:18.

bit? ! Yes, chef! Make these nice and thin but please do not attack

:35:19.:35:23.

them. Respect the meat, if you would. I have got some ready. Just

:35:24.:35:36.

respect the food! I have got some that we have already done. So we are

:35:37.:35:46.

ready to go. Sage is quite strong. So we just put one leaf. We want to

:35:47.:35:57.

use that to add flavour. He once to mask the flavour! It is

:35:58.:36:04.

saltimbocca, you have to use Sage for that! It is that classic Italian

:36:05.:36:13.

dish. That goes on there. Then we need this wonderful prosciutto.

:36:14.:36:39.

Alex, tell us how to pronounce that. In the meantime you can get that

:36:40.:36:54.

letters ready. -- lettuce. A bit of all in here. It cooks quickly and

:36:55.:36:59.

then we put a cocktail stick through. And then it goes into the

:37:00.:37:10.

pan. This really is a family dish. You would have this in the lead up

:37:11.:37:17.

to Christmas? These days you can buy just the breast. Butchers are very

:37:18.:37:23.

good these days and they want to help you. There is no reason why you

:37:24.:37:29.

could not have a stuffed leg coming up to Christmas. I tried that. I

:37:30.:37:37.

like turkey if it is cooked properly. The chefs now, they pan

:37:38.:37:44.

the turkey -based agreed to order. My problem is when it is cooked for

:37:45.:37:49.

three and four hours. That is my issue. Why is it so big? Do people

:37:50.:37:56.

buy turkey other than at Christmas? I rest my case. They come into

:37:57.:38:03.

season over Christmas. Just traditionally. But it is not

:38:04.:38:10.

traditional, really. It is American. It is not. King George VI said we

:38:11.:38:17.

should have turkey at Christmas in this country. Just smell that. It

:38:18.:38:28.

smells wonderful. It smells of prosciutto! A little bit of thought.

:38:29.:38:39.

A bit of pepper. How are we doing with the salad dressing? What do you

:38:40.:38:46.

want in that? There is some mustard there and some sherry vinegar. Some

:38:47.:38:54.

lemon juice as well. Even in my Italian family we always had turkey

:38:55.:39:00.

at Christmas. It was so big, two or three people had to carry it in!

:39:01.:39:09.

Just words that out weekly. With a bit of white wine. -- just print

:39:10.:39:22.

that out quickly. I suddenly feel as if I am a cousin of Alex! I am

:39:23.:39:28.

depending on you. A bit of chicken stock. Why not turkey stock? I think

:39:29.:39:38.

chicken stock is good in many dishes. It is neutral and it takes

:39:39.:39:44.

the flavour of what you are actually cooking. A squeeze of lemon juice

:39:45.:39:50.

and then just reduce it down. I am desperate to start of this turkey

:39:51.:39:56.

challenge pretty well. It did not go my way yesterday. You leave that to

:39:57.:40:06.

rest? Not necessarily! When you first came down to London in 1822,

:40:07.:40:12.

did you think you would be stood here wearing a turkey jumper?

:40:13.:40:19.

Probably not! But I am proud to wear this. It is turkey time. I picked

:40:20.:40:36.

them! Just put some butter in. It gives it a lovely shine. And it will

:40:37.:40:46.

thicken up. I like it to be made without flour. So pan-fried those.

:40:47.:40:55.

Take them out and put in some white wine and chicken stock, reduce it.

:40:56.:41:08.

Look at the shine that that has got. That is what you want. And you can

:41:09.:41:17.

boil it when it has got butter in? I do have talent! I will get you a

:41:18.:41:26.

spoon. That is extremely kind. Put a bit of salad in the middle. Is this

:41:27.:41:32.

what you would have at Christmas? Absolutely. Boxing Day, New Year's

:41:33.:41:42.

Day, any day you can think of! I will just have a quick taste. Just

:41:43.:41:46.

thinking about the lemon juice. That is key to it? It just lifts it. I

:41:47.:41:57.

know what you're going to say, you want another dish for the salad. It

:41:58.:42:08.

looks spectacular. Do you leave the cocktail sticks in? I do. Normally I

:42:09.:42:14.

am serving the two adults who are mature and know what to do! But if

:42:15.:42:21.

you have got time you can let it sit for a while and then take out the

:42:22.:42:27.

cocktail sticks. But you can get round that. I think that is a dish

:42:28.:42:35.

and a half. Turkey saltimbocca. It smells fantastic. And it looks

:42:36.:42:47.

lovely. It has gone quiet. That is a good sign. It tastes of Reagan. --

:42:48.:42:59.

they can. It is not bad. I would not know that it was turkey. If you

:43:00.:43:05.

close your eyes, are you enjoying it? Marvellous. The turkey is just

:43:06.:43:15.

cooked. Now we need to decide if this is where the of going into the

:43:16.:43:23.

Christmas recipe book. Or if it is not good enough it goes into the

:43:24.:43:30.

bin. Thumbs up for me. It has got to go in. I will put it in! Then I

:43:31.:43:42.

changed my mind! That is all from us today. Thank you to the guest. All

:43:43.:43:52.

of the recipes from today are on the website. That one is on there if you

:43:53.:44:00.

really want it! See you again soon. Goodbye for now.

:44:01.:44:04.

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