Every Last Crumb Food & Drink


Every Last Crumb

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We've all done it - opened the fridge

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looking for a snack, only to be confronted by mouldy food.

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We throw away ?12 billion worth of food in the UK every year.

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If we knew how to turn our leftovers into lunch,

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we could save ourselves a small fortune.

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So we're clamping down on food waste.

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I'm joined by national treasure Mary Berry

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to make family favourites out of forgotten odds and ends.

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You are...a genius. The topping is inspired!

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It's a bit more original too.

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Award-winning chef Stevie Parle is shocked that some of our

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best cuts of meat are going to waste.

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So what, this whole thing would usually be minced?

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Yeah, the whole thing. Seriously?

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Kate has a surprise in store with her choice of wines.

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It's what we call a "face-changer". It certainly sets you on fire.

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And I'm turning leftovers into restaurant quality cuisine.

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This is Food Drink.

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Homes in Britain throw more than ?500 worth of food

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in the bin each year.

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Just think of what that money could buy us.

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A generation ago we wouldn't have dreamt

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of throwing away this much food,

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but if we learn to make the most of our weekly shop by creating

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thrifty and delicious meals,

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we'll be well on the way to saving some of that money.

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Mary Berry has been a household name for half a century,

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and there's nothing she doesn't know about baking and cooking.

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You see, it's lovely, the fruit and the cream and the sponge,

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that's absolutely fine,

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but it's just not cutting right and it's looking a little bit untidy.

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Having lived through rationing, as far as Mary is concerned,

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wasting food is simply criminal.

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So I want her to show me a new way to use up one of the

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most thrown-away ingredients in our kitchens.

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So, Mary, do you realise that a third of bread

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purchased in this country ends up in the bin? Shocking, isn't it?

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It's astounding, absolutely shocking,

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nearly ?1 billion worth of bread is not consumed and ends up as waste.

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So what are we going to cook with bread?

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Well, I love fish pie, and I normally put either pastry on top or

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mashed potato, but I'm going to put

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leftover bread in the form of croutons.

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We're going to make an ingenious crouton topping which transforms

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stale bread into something crispy, golden and delicious.

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I'm sold. Using old bread to make a souffled crust on top of fish pie?

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Yes, most definitely.

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And also, it's far quicker than peeling potatoes, cooking them

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and whatever, or making pastry.

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But first, the filling, starting with fresh and smoked haddock.

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Unbelievably, we throw away almost

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two hundred million pounds worth of fish a year!

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But there's no need.

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This pie could be made with any fish that needs using up.

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I'm going to take a leek and I'm just going to shred it.

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Now, I'm not using the green bit, I'm going to keep that,

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that would be fine in soups with a bit longer cooking,

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so I'll put that to one side.

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And I'm now going to gently fry that in butter, without colouring,

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until it's soft. I think leeks go so well with fish. They do.

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You can use onion if you've got one in the fridge,

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or even, sometimes you get a bunch of spring onions,

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the tops go a little bit off, but all the white part's all right.

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Pull the outsides off, shred those finely,

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it would give great flavour to this.

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It's all about looking in your fridge

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and seeing what you ought to be using up.

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Exactly, because sometimes, vegetables,

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they may look a little bit wrinkly or dry, but actually,

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peel that off and you've got a perfectly good leek on the inside.

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Hard-boiled eggs are a great way to bulk out a pie like this,

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and they'll sit on top of the fish filling that Mary is making.

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Now, it looks like it's not going to become smooth,

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but it is going to become smooth.

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HE CHUCKLES

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How about you giving that a bit of a beat? I'll take over.

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What speed do you do that with! Work out the lumps there, yes.

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Now, for fish pie, we're adding fish and boiled eggs.

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Sometimes, particularly after a Sunday lunch or something,

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you'll have a few carrots, cauliflower and things like that.

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A lot of vegetables all in a white sauce with a bit of chopped ham

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or cooked bacon, and then you could put this souffle mixture on top.

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That would do beautifully for... It's another meal. It's another meal.

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Chopped dill and lemon juice are perfect flavours

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to complement the fish.

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And it's essential to add the lemon once the sauce has thickened,

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because if it hasn't thickened, it can sometimes crack the milk

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and it can separate, so lemon goes in at the end.

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Add the fish into the sauce.

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At this stage, cook it gently, as it'll be going into the oven.

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Now, I'm guessing, Mary, that your fridge at home is very neat

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and tidy, and there's nothing out of date...

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You can go on guessing. But I promise you,

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it's not one of my tidiest places.

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Things get shoved on the wrong shelves, I'm very human,

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everything gets in a real muddle, but I do have a sort-out at the beginning

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of the week and think, "What can I use up in Monday night's supper?"

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The mixture goes into a buttered baking dish,

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with my hard-boiled eggs arranged carefully on top.

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But now, I really want to find out what Mary can do

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with my three-day-old stale bread.

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Is there a bread knife over there? Yes.

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So, you take off the crust,

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and they can be used for making breadcrumbs...

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Absolutely. ..to cook fishcakes in.

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I've got a use for these later. Have you? Most definitely. That's good.

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So keep those, then. Yes, these are for me.

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Then I'm going to cut cubes from these.

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And if you have fresh bread, you're in difficulty here. Mm.

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I bet you can do that, I'll get on with this.

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OK, size of sugar lumps. Size of sugar lumps.

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For the topping, along with cream cheese, we're using cheddar,

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but you can swap this for any chunks you've got left in the fridge,

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even if it's seen better days.

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Now, you can see that it does sort of look a bit separated.

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It doesn't look the most appetising, I must say.

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That's what it's meant to look like. Curdled.

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'Fold in a whisked egg white.'

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This really is like a souffle mix. It is.

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I love this idea of using up stale bread in this manner.

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I've never done this before, so I'm learning a new trick here,

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and I love it.

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'With the souffle mix on top, this pie is ready for the oven.

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'But if you didn't want to cook this right away, you can

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'freeze the base and bake it another day.'

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People often say to me, "How long can I keep something in the freezer?"

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I always say, "Freezing is the best form of preservation."

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And in things like game, it will keep till the season comes round again.

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If something's got a high proportion of fat, it won't keep quite as long.

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You seem to know a lot about freezers, Mary.

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Well, I go back a long way, as you know, and in the '60s,

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I was on Home Freezer Digest,

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and there was a magazine particularly for freezer owners,

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because freezers came in and people just didn't know

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what to do with them.

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So I became quite an expert, and I always think of my freezer

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that's in the kitchen as a way of saving waste.

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We digress.

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This is ready to go into the oven, 180 for about 25 minutes,

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till it's gorgeously brown on top and the sauce bubbling.

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I think bread is a wonderfully versatile ingredient.

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Even when it's past its best,

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it can be turned into crumbs for crispy coating on fishcakes.

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Given a new lease of life as croutons

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in a beautiful panzanella salad.

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And stale slices can become bread and butter pudding,

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or totally made-over in a vibrant summer pudding.

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But back to Mary's pie, and what to drink with it.

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It's probably safe to say that most of us

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would assume we should drink white wine with fish,

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but Kate thinks the rules are there to be broken,

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and has some good advice on how to go your own way.

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Despite what many people think,

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it's not always white wine that works best with a fish dish.

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Red wine can also be a match made in heaven.

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So unleash your sense of adventure, and follow my top tips on how

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to pick the right one for your fish supper.

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Red wines are particularly suited to

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meaty fish like tuna and swordfish.

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The key is to make sure the wine isn't too heavy.

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If it's high in tannins, the flavour can be too bitter with the fish.

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Pinot Noir would be a good choice,

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and whilst you can find some great New World examples,

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Eastern Europe is currently producing some

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decent pinots for a cracking budget buy.

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And red wine can still be great even

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when the fish has a more delicate

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flavour, like grilled salmon.

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A lightly chilled red like an un-oaked Cabernet Franc from the

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Loire in France has a vibrant red fruitiness,

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and just the right level of acidity to work perfectly.

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Cabernet Franc often gets overlooked as a great variety, but it can

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produce really high quality wines that offer great value for money.

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But, for me, sometimes it

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really does have to be white,

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like with good old fish and chips.

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Try a citrusy Southern French Picpoul de Pinet, which cuts

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through the batter without overpowering the fish inside.

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Its fresh flavour is unusual given it's from such a hot area of the

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Languedoc, and a very good bottle can be had for less than a tenner.

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So next time you're planning your fish supper, remember,

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there's nothing fishy about being brave

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and experimenting to find the best wine for the job.

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Hope you're hungry, Kate. Always. Oh, look at that.

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Oh, smells great as well. It does, doesn't it? Ohhh.

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Such a hearty dish, isn't it? Fish pie.

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And the sauce is lovely and creamy. A bit more sauce there coming.

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Oh, thank you. Oh, the smells. So fragrant.

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Right, let's dig in. Oh, it's got bits of egg in as well. Mmm.

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MICHEL CHUCKLES

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You are...a genius.

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This is just absolutely unbelievable, the sauce is

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so creamy, it's rich but not heavy or cloying,

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but the topping is inspired.

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It's a far better topping than mashed potato on a fish pie.

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It's a bit lighter, isn't it? It's not so heavy and dense.

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It's a bit more original too. Yeah, exactly. Oh!

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So, of course, you could match red wine with fish,

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and there are lots of occasions when I would do that,

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but for this, it's quite creamy, this dish, so I want something that

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cuts through, so I have gone for a white - a nice, fresh, zingy white.

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And the grape I've chosen is Chenin Blanc.

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I've got three fantastic examples from South Africa.

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The first one is Badenhorst, and it's Secateurs Chenin Blanc,

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it's from Swartland in South Africa, and it's a great example.

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Is it expensive? It's around ?10.

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Have a go, see what you think and how it fits with your food.

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Well, I've had about three goes already.

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I drink a lot of Sauvignon Blanc, and this is a pleasant change,

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and it is not dissimilar. Exactly.

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And I think we all have the tendency to see something we know

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and we go for it, it's totally natural, but, I think, try something

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a little bit different,

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and you'll find similar styles that do the same job.

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It's crisp, it's very refreshing

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and I think it does work really well with this fish pie.

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So, the second wine is from Stellenbosch,

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another region in South Africa.

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This is Ken Forrester, and it's the Workhorse Chenin Blanc.

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This is around ?8, so it's a little bit cheaper.

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Mm, it's more sort of a... Grassier.

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Grassier, and definitely green apple. Yeah, that's it.

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Do you like that as much, Mary?

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It shows how they can differ. It is quite different.

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I was so shocked how much I liked the first one,

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and by the third one I won't know anyway.

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LAUGHTER

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The last one we've got is Raats Granite Blocks Chenin Blanc,

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from the same region, Stellenbosch.

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This one is ?11, and this is a bit more melony,

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little bit more tropical, not as grassy as that second one.

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As a group, I'm enjoying them all. They are good wines.

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You are a great expert, you'll tell me

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which one you think is the best, but I'd have a go at the lot.

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My favourite with this particular dish would be the first one.

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Using leftovers can taste amazing,

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and the money you've saved can go towards a great choice of wine.

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We can all do our bit in the kitchen,

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as Mary's delicious fish pie has shown,

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but food journalist Sheila Dillon is convinced

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stronger measures are needed

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to put an end to the Great British waste scandal.

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"Thou shalt not waste" should have been the 11th commandment.

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But we do.

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When thousands of people in the UK are reliant on food banks,

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the rest of us are wasting ?12 billion worth of food a year.

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So how come, when money's so tight,

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we're so willing to throw away what we've spent out hard-earned cash on?

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Ooh. Wow. That is...serious food waste.

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Our food has become so cheap that we no longer value it.

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It has become, like its packaging, literally disposable.

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100 years ago, a working-class family could have spent up

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to 50% of their income on food.

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Even now, with food prices on the rise,

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we're spending a smaller percentage of our income on food

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and drink, and maybe that's why we think it's OK to throw away

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nearly a fifth of the food we buy.

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The industrialisation of our food supply has created

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an almost insane amount of choice.

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We toss things into the supermarket trolley without a thought.

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There's lots of it, it's cheap - what does it matter?

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So, if we have to pay more money to prevent this kind of

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criminal wastefulness, then so be it.

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My word, that was grotesque to see that food going to waste.

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But surely not, surely, we can't pay more for our food, Sheila?

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Well, the problem is that we've come to a point in this society where the

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only way that we value things is by how much we pay for them.

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So what you're saying is food has very little value -

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cash value - and that's why we are tempted to just throw it away.

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Yeah, we throw it in the supermarket trolley, "Two-for-one,

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"who cares?" And then we don't use it, and then we throw it in the bin.

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We're bombarded, that's part of it,

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we're bombarded by marketing messages of "buy this,

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"buy this in bulk, buy two and it's cheaper"

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and I think we have a tendency - and I am included in this -

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where we think, "Yes, I need it," and actually, we don't.

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And if it cost a bit more, we might pause. Is that the only answer?

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There's going to be a loser in that equation,

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and it's probably going to be the end consumer.

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I think waste goes back to knowing about food. Yeah.

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People who know about food, and they buy a chicken,

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they use every bit of that chicken.

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And when it comes to the carcass, they make it into stock,

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and they spin that out to have four meals.

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Whereas someone who doesn't know, they buy

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an intensively farmed chicken and often only use the breast,

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and they chuck the rest out.

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Young people, unfortunately, they haven't had any

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education of cooking at school, and that's what happens.

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As a chef and a restaurateur, I wouldn't have a business

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if I was as wasteful as that, it's simple...simple fact.

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But you buy good quality stuff, and you pay for it.

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Yes, but I'm not wasteful, so even if something is going maybe

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slightly dry on the edges or shrivelly, I know how to use it,

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everything gets used. To go back to all that waste,

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when I was a child we had a big pressure cooker,

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and all our family waste was cooked down and put with bran for chickens,

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and, of course, any waste from hotels and restaurants went to feed pigs.

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All that's gone, so that's going into the waste.

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It is a part of it, and I'm just putting this out here

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because I don't know whether this is an issue,

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but are we over-cautious on health and safety... Oh, God, yes.

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..with sell-by dates, is that part of it?

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Yes, it is, I had a phone call the other day from my brother to

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say that his wife had looked at some Brie in the fridge

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and it was a week over, and he said, "She wants to throw it away,

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"she shouldn't, should she?"

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And I said, "No, course she shouldn't, don't be ridiculous.

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"Be so much better."

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But what Mary's talking about, the lack of education,

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that does lead to wastefulness, because people go,

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"Oh, my God!" Putting the price up is not the answer,

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the answer is to get people knowing about food.

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It is using up that waste, don't throw it away,

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and make people have a pride in opening the fridge in the morning

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and thinking, "I'm not going to throw that away, I'm going to use it."

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I think we just all need a Mary Berry in our house. Yes.

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It would, it would help enormously.

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'What about you, are you a kitchen waster?

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'After the show, head straight to our website...

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'..to carry on the debate,

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'and for all of today's recipes and drinks.'

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So we've been talking a lot about waste, here I have the

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ultimate in waste-not-want-not drinks, OK, you ready for this?

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This is a grappa,

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and grappa was created by frugal Italian winemakers,

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it's made from the leftovers, called the pomace,

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so it's all the pulps, the seeds, the skins,

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and they distil it and they make grappa. It is very strong, isn't it?

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It is very strong, you need to just go for it.

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I've been going for it for a long time.

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Whoa! I mean, it certainly sets you on fire.

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It wakes you up, doesn't it?

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It certainly does wake you up, and what other comment can I make?

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It is so potent. It's what we call a "face-changer". Really?

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Hmm! That was very serene. You took that really well, Sheila.

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Mm, that was... That is, it's calm and soothing.

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I thought it was going to be sharper.

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No, it's lovely and well-balanced. It's just quite pungent.

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It's got length as well, it's just lingering there, mmm.

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Smoother than you think it's going to be, isn't it? Very smooth.

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It would drive a car, this.

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Drive a car?!

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Well, waste not, want not - stick it in the car.

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The meat industry is ruthlessly efficient, arguably too efficient.

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Once the prime cuts have been taken off a carcass,

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everything else finds its way to the mincer.

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Technically, nothing is wasted.

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Award-winning chef Stevie Parle thinks this means we're

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missing out on some of the best bits the animal has to offer.

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As somebody who appreciates some of the rare cuts of meat to be

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found on a carcass, it's clear to me that the

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British public are really missing out on some culinary gems.

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Take the beef carcass.

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There are loads of cuts beside the well-known steaks that aren't

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readily available in the supermarkets.

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But chefs like me love them, and the best way to find out

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about these gems is to go straight to the farmer.

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Tom Jones farms cattle on the Welsh border

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and butchers his cows himself.

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As far as he's concerned,

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mincing the lesser-known cuts isn't just a waste, it's sacrilege.

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These look beautiful, so what have we got here?

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So this is a three-year-old Dexter heifer.

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Fantastic. It's interesting,

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because you butcher in a really traditional whole carcass way,

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why do you think it is that more people don't do that?

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It takes a long time to butcher a carcass,

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and at the end of it the butcher's not really sure

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if he's going to sell the cuts that he's butchered out,

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so there's no point spending your whole day butchering out cuts

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that are going to go straight into the mincer.

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Well, I love using all these different cuts of meat,

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but I'm a bit baffled by the sight of this carcass,

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so I'd love to see where they all come from.

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The hindquarter of beef, including the leg,

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contains the best cuts of meat.

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But also some of the least used.

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We've got the fillet here. Expensive, nice, though.

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This is the sirloin here, or wing rib, or strip loin.

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Then we've got the rump here.

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Underneath this big flap of muscle,

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this is what we call the steak flank.

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Now, this is usually waste, but we're going to

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take out some really nice alternative steak cuts.

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Great. Let's get on with it.

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'So to get those lesser-known gems, we first remove all those

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'expensive usual suspects - the fillet, the sirloin and the rump.'

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And that, that's a nice roasting cut.

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Yep, a bit more flavour than the fillet and the sirloin,

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still very expensive, about ?15 a kilo.

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But now we're coming into the cheaper, tastier stuff,

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and that is found in the steak flank.

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This meat here, look at the texture of that. Beautiful.

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This is a bavette, and it's a beautiful open texture to it.

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It's a real tragedy, though, that this would ever be

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classed as a second grade cut, this is a wonderful bit of beef.

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What I want to see is you butchering this leg.

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Well, this is the most exciting part of the animal in my opinion,

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and this is the bit...

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..that mostly gets wasted.

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So what, this whole thing would usually be minced?

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Yep, the whole thing... Seriously?

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But there's some fantastic things you can do with it.

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And that is the beef shank.

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What you want to do is get a pot, stick it straight in,

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and cook it for ten hours.

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'In amongst all the incredible cuts of meat in the leg is

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'one with rather an unusual name.'

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The mouse.

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And it's called the mouse

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because it's got a little pointy nose like a mouse.

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I have never heard of the mouse, but it looks like a lovely bit

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of beef, and also great potential for just delicious thin steaks.

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'A cut of mouse like this can cost half the price of sirloin -

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'if you can find a butcher in the know.

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'All I'm doing is simply barbecuing it, and look at the results.

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'Under-used cuts of meat aren't just cheaper than more familiar ones,

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'in my opinion it's a waste to chuck them in the mincer.'

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That has got to be the best steak sandwich I've ever had.

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Sitting here in the field, and the cow ate that grass -

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it doesn't get any better than that.

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So I've converted you to mouse, then?

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Definitely. Excellent.

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As a chef, there's little more satisfying than finding ways

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to use every part of an ingredient.

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Chicken is the most popular meat in Britain,

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so we've always got leftovers.

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And this is a great way to use them up.

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My crispy roast chicken croquettes with tangy spicy tomato chutney

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are the perfect antidote to boring leftovers.

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And we all have those tomatoes at the bottom of the fridge

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that are going a bit shrivelled up and battered and bruised,

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they've been in the fridge for probably too long,

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and they're not very nice if you're going to have a tomato salad.

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But they're still good to eat,

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and this tomato chutney really is very simple.

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It's almost like a spicy tomato ketchup.

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I've got shallots and garlic sweating in a pan,

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and I'm adding sugar for sweetness.

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You can't have tomatoes without salt.

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The fennel seeds, chilli flakes,

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and a good amount of red wine vinegar.

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Once that's bubbling away, in go the tomatoes,

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and that just needs to cook down for 10-15 minutes.

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Right, now for the croquette using leftover roast chicken.

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I'm going to rice the potatoes

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and then add bits of the roast chicken that are left over.

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'These are plain cooked potatoes.

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'Just boil a few extra when you're preparing your Sunday roasties,

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'and they'll be ready to go the next day.'

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If you haven't got a ricer, it doesn't really matter,

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you could mash the potatoes up with a fork.

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It doesn't matter if there are lumps,

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as long as your potato is cooked.

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So we've got our mashed potato, and now for the chicken.

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This is the carcass of the chicken that's been attacked,

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and most of the meat has come off there, but if you pick this

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really well, there's a lot of

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flavourful and delicious meat left in there.

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Nothing should go to waste, just tear it up,

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it's all full of flavour and goodness.

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'You can make this with any leftovers.

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'Ham or bacon would be great,

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'or even vegetables with a bit of cheese - delicious.'

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You should end up with just a skeleton.

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That shouldn't be put in the bin either, you can

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make beautiful stocks or soups out of the chicken carcass.

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Next step - we need to put an egg in.

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The egg is going to bind this croquette together,

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help to cement it.

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And then some seasoning. I like a little bit of lemon in there.

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That's going to give a little bit of freshness

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and zest to this croquette.

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A bit of tarragon.

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Don't need much, because tarragon is quite strong

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and it's got that quite aniseed taste.

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Then we need a bit of salt and some pepper.

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And finally, to add a bit of richness to this, some butter.

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'This lovely mixture is now packed full of flavour.

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'Shape it into bite-size croquettes and coat them in flour,

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'beaten egg and breadcrumbs,

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'which I've made with the leftover crust from Mary's fish pie.

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'Fry in hot oil for a few minutes until golden-brown all over,

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'and serve with the spicy tomato chutney.

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'This is the ultimate way to turn

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'culinary rags into delicious riches.'

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Chicken croquette. My favourite. Nice and crispy and golden.

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You are going to love this.

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Mmm.

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Chicken croquette and a tomato relish.

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The seasoning is just lovely, and, of course,

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this lovely crisp outside

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just makes it.

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That's great, and here's another white for you,

0:27:180:27:20

another white that you may not have heard of, I don't know.

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It's a Barone Pizzini, Pievalta Verdicchio.

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How do we all say that little lot?

0:27:260:27:29

Can you imagine me going in and asking?

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I'd have to have it on a piece of paper.

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Verdicchio is the important bit. Verdicchio is the grape.

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And it's from Central Italy, from Marche, on the east coast.

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And it makes these lovely subtle wines, really food-friendly. Dry.

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Well dry. It's really dry. I like that.

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And it goes very well with the croquette.

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Gives it a lift.

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It takes a simple croquette - which is really leftovers -

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to another level when you serve a decent wine with it.

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I love food and I love drink, I believe it's time we gave them

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the respect they deserve.

0:28:090:28:11

So next time you think about throwing that stale loaf away -

0:28:110:28:14

stop!

0:28:140:28:15

If you can get another meal out of it, how good would that be?

0:28:150:28:18

Next time, it's all about cooking on a budget -

0:28:210:28:24

Tom Kerridge makes the most of a cheap cut of meat...

0:28:240:28:26

This whole meal probably costs around ?2 a head - in total.

0:28:260:28:31

..Tony Kitous champions a cheap but tasty ingredient...

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Eating well does not have to come at a price.

0:28:340:28:37

..and I make a foolproof yet inexpensive dessert.

0:28:370:28:40

To be in the Lords, you have to be punctual...

0:29:170:29:20

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