Guilty Pleasures Food & Drink

Eating and drinking isn't just about fuel.

The pure joy you get from a great meal

goes way beyond simple sustenance.

They say, "A little bit of what you fancy does you good,"

for a good reason!

Life would be so boring without a few guilty pleasures.

And that's exactly what this show's all about.

'We're making one of our best-loved indulgent dishes -

'pizza!

'Angela Hartnett's here to share her wonderfully simple dish

'that will send your taste buds to heaven!'

Oh, yeah. Mm-mm! That's what a pizza should taste like.

'Drinks expert Kate Goodman

'reveals her secrets to great drinks matching'

and shows us how to select the very best Italian reds.

'Rachel Khoo takes on the diet brigade

'and stands up for full-fat food.'

Low-fat? You can keep it!

'And I show you how to make a salted caramel dessert to die for.'

Welcome to a very decadent Food & Drink.

What would life be without treats?

What's your guilty pleasure?

A cream tea?

A plate of fried chicken?

Your favourite tipple?

Or a bar of chocolate?

Let's face it! We all do it -

reward ourselves with the occasional,

and not so occasional,

indulgence!

Michelin-starred chef Angela Hartnett

comes from an Italian family

where rich pasta sauces and creamy risotto are regulars on the menu.

She's going to show me how to create another delicious

and indulgent dish that we often feel a bit guilty about eating.

Your guilty pleasure has to be Italian! It's got to!

My real guilty pleasure, if I'm really honest, is crisps.

I love plain crisps.

-I'm shocked and disappointed.

-I bet you've had one.

-Yes.

THEY CHUCKLE

What are we cooking, then?

A lovely pizzetta - the classic Italian pizza.

There's certain things I think the Italians do very well

and better than anyone else. One is pizza, the other's coffee

and ice cream. We're going with pizza today.

'Angela's pizza bianca uses rich and creamy Taleggio cheese

'and is paired with a simple chicory salad

'that perfectly complements this classic Italian dish.'

Pizza to me, it's sort of the antithesis.

You sometimes think it's an indulgence, a luxury,

but I think there's nothing better than a simple pizza bianca,

or a bit of mozzarella, a bit of anchovy.

-In winter you've got white truffle shaved on top...

-Oh...

-..with a bit of Parmesan.

-Stop it.

It's such a simple dish but it's the quality of the ingredients

you put on that makes it so special.

'This pizza dough is made from

'strong bread flour that's high in gluten

'and will make a light

'but elastic dough.'

We also put a little bit of salt in. Not too much in the pizza dough

because you don't want to kill off all the yeast.

That's another secret,

cos the seasoning goes in with the ingredients.

'A thin and crispy pizza base like this

'is virtually guilt- and fat-free.

'You just add half liquid to flour -

'125ml of warm water to mix with a pinch of sugar

'and fresh yeast.'

In Italy, the pizza comes from Naples. That's where they do it.

They do it very simply.

Just tomato, mozzarella, nothing else.

I think in the South of France, they do that as well, don't they?

Absolutely. Yes.

In Provence they make the pissaladiere,

which is the onion pizza.

And those little pizzette with just tomato, maybe...maybe an anchovy

on but always very, very simple, and I think

simple is best when it comes to pizzas. No pineapple!

You know what? I'm going to tell you a story quickly.

It's just reminded me.

I went on a date with a guy once.

You know you think there's the top ten questions?

If they do this, or that, it'll never work. We went for a pizza.

He said, "Pineapple with ham." I thought,

"I should leave now cos it's never going to work."

Just, you know... And that was our one and only date.

I thought I'd knocked it on the head then.

Thank you for sharing that lovely little nugget.

I know. What a lovely person(!)

My mother's going, "That's why you're still unmarried, you see?"

'The dough needs 10 to 15 minutes of kneading

'while Angela gets on with the salad.'

The reason I've gone for chicory is cos I love that crunch with it.

And it's slightly bitter.

-Yeah, exactly. Yeah.

-Just love it. I love a bitter salad.

'This is such a simple salad,

'it's just leaves, lemon zest

'and a fresh dressing,

'which is only added when you're ready to eat.'

No olive oil at the moment.

No vinaigrette or anything cos I don't want it to kill it off.

We'll finish it with a little Dijon mustard and salt.

The secret to a great salad.

-Not seasoning too soon, not putting the dressing on too soon.

-Exactly.

Just keeping it very nice and fresh. We might add a little bit of chilli.

I think it's quite sharp in a way, chicory.

It's got its own flavour and I think it can hold well with Dijon mustard.

I'll add that with a little olive oil and a touch of vinegar.

-This is a French dressing.

-I know.

Of course.

You lot do something right. The odd thing is the dressing.

-Got to give you something. How's it feeling?

-Smooth.

And quite wet still, isn't it?

It's still quite wet.

The trend these days is wetter dough.

It's a lighter bread. Right,

so we just leave our dough to prove up.

We're going to let it rise for about 20 minutes,

half an hour somewhere warm.

Our salad's ready. Once that's ready,

we'll make our pizza.

Indulgent food can often feel like a guilty pleasure

because you don't know how it's made.

But when you make your own treats with fantastic ingredients,

you can indulge yourself with a clearer conscience.

So what would you drink with this, then?

Well, Italian pizza. It's got to be Italian wine.

Angela's got a good point.

By matching food and wine from the same country,

you're much more likely to get a good match.

Italy produces some of the greatest red wines in the world.

And if you follow Kate's golden rules,

you'll pick the best of the bunch.

Italy is the second-biggest producer of wine after France

with a breathtaking diversity of styles.

There are hundreds of red grape varieties.

But if you think of your wine as fitting into

one of these three categories, it can help you find the perfect match.

If you're looking for a light-bodied red wine,

an inexpensive northern Italian Barbera would be great.

The Barbera grape produces a fruity, spicy wine

with low tannins, so they're perfect if you don't like that mouth-drying

quality that tannin gives red wine.

You can pick up a soft, easy-going,

young Barbera for between £5 and £10,

that'll go perfectly with meat and cheese antipasti.

When I want something with a bit more heft,

a bottle of rosso di Montalcino made with 100% Sangiovese grapes

which are also largely responsible for wines like

the ever-popular Chianti.

Nebbiolo

is another grape that makes some of Italy's

best medium-bodied red wines

like the famous Barolo.

A good one will set you back a few quid

but it's the perfect match for a rich, meaty pasta sauce.

Now for the full-bodied,

beefy Italian reds.

You may not have heard of Aglianico grapes

from Campania, in the south of Italy,

but it's a grape you really should experience.

Red wines made from this grape are amazingly dark and fruity,

with plummy, chocolaty aromas and are rich enough

to match with lamb.

The fantastic thing about these lesser-known grape varieties

is that they often give you great value for money.

If you follow this simple guide to choosing the right Italian red,

you'll be sure to make a confident and delicious decision.

So, Kate, as you're here I'm going to make you do a little work.

-I'm going to give you a little bit of flour.

-Warm hands.

-Warm hands, and we put a little bit on the bench there.

-Right.

And then we'll divide it in two, actually. Start to roll it out.

Even if your hands are a bit warm, it's going to be fine.

So as thin as you can get it, Kate, it'd be perfect.

I don't know about you, what are you, thin base? Crispy base?

Personally, thin base.

What we're going to do is put a little bit of polenta on here,

and what happens is we're going to slide this onto the hot tray

-in the oven.

-So it doesn't stick.

That allows us to do it, exactly. It doesn't stick.

The toppings are, of course, a pizza's crowning glory.

I've got some Taleggio cheese from northern Italy, from Lombardy,

that region. So a nice cow's creamy cheese.

This is where you can go to town

with your favourite indulgent ingredients.

-Spinach here.

-Yeah.

All blanched and then we just keep it nice and dry.

This is what we call a pizza in bianco if you like,

because there's no tomato sauce.

Then we've got some Taleggio cheese,

and that's going to melt like mozzarella.

So nice big slices of that.

I don't think we need any salt cos we've got the anchovies,

but I will put a little bit of pepper.

-And then we've got in here a bit of garlic and chilli oil.

-Oh, yes!

Which is perfect, so we might even put a little bit as we come out,

but we'll certainly put a bit on now.

And then what you're hoping for is that all that Taleggio

obviously melts in with the anchovies.

One final thing we're going to do,

we're going to crack an egg right into the middle.

Then, hopefully, that's going to cook,

and then you've got that lovely soft.

Oh, fingers crossed. Here we go.

In the oven.

So a really hot oven, cos you really want that crispy, crunchy base,

egg to cook and, well, we wait for a glass of wine, eh, Michel?

-How long for the pizza?

-About three or four minutes.

-Oh!

-It's quite a big one.

-That's great, isn't it? No waiting time. I love it.

-Let's go.

-Oh, Angela!

-Fabuloso!

-Fabuloso. OK, so...

OK.

-Wow, that's crispy.

-That is. And we can do a little bit more garlic oil.

You could add a little bit of ham or Parmesan.

-Straight through the egg.

-It smells amazing.

-Right.

Oh, yeah, it's crispy.

That's what we want! Pizza is my perfect indulgent meal. It really is.

I don't have it that often cos it's cheese... I love,

you know, I'm a big cheese fan.

It looks real, it looks as if it's been made by hands.

-Hands that love the food.

-That's the thing,

do you eat with your hands or do you eat with a knife and fork?

Hands, every time. Always. Always.

Oh, yeah. Mm-hmm.

-Mmm.

-Gooey cheese. It's amazing.

-It's lovely, the Taleggio.

It really melts in with it.

Yeah, and that saltiness really gives it a kick, doesn't it,

the saltiness from the anchovies?

-That's what a pizza should taste like.

-Well, good pizza, good wine.

-Come on,

-missus. Obviously in honour of you, Angela,

and this delightful pizza, we have gone Italian.

So three Italian reds, and what I'm looking for here is light to

medium bodied, I don't want anything too heavy.

I don't want anything to overwhelm this. So this is number one.

This is from Tuscany. Il Poggione Rosso Di Montalcino, 2011.

Now, this is a bit of a treat wine. Perhaps a nice gift for someone.

-This is around the £20 mark.

-OK.

-All Sangiovese.

It's much more approachable, much softer than Brunello.

Brunello's quite serious and dark.

It'd be too much for this, whereas the Rosso is a bit more elegant.

-It's delicious.

-Fruit. Beautiful light fruit in there.

It's a gorgeous wine.

It's got a bit of spice, a bit of those dark sour cherries,

a little bit of chocolate, so there's enough going on there.

-Oh, yeah.

-But still that lovely freshness.

The second wine is Terre di Giumara Frappato Nerello Mascalese.

Frappato and Nerello Mascalese are the two grape varieties.

Lesser-known varieties, I'm not sure whether you're familiar with them.

-I don't think I've heard of them at all actually.

-No.

So this is my quest

to get people drinking more unusual grape varieties.

This is from Sicily, but the Frappato has that lovely dark colour.

Beautiful colour, isn't it? I'd say a medium bodied.

It's a lovely soft rounded wine. Just something a little bit different.

That's very different. I've never come across this before.

-It feels very gentle, doesn't it?

-Yeah.

It is soft but quite dry on the palate on the finish,

-and I'm getting notes of coffee and smoke in it.

-It's very nice though.

It's got that lovely smoothness in the mouth.

It is a great wine for pizza.

-People are drinking red wines cold now.

-It's a great idea.

-Would you drink that?

-I think that would work really nicely.

Just a touch, yeah.

Not too much, you don't want to chill it down too cold.

-What's the price on that one?

-That one is around the £8-10 mark.

So it's a little bit more affordable.

The last wine, again we're upping the ante a bit on the price front.

This is Marziano Abbona Barbera D'Alba.

This is 2008, so it's got a bit of bottle age.

So we've gone right from Sicily up to Piedmont in north-west Italy.

Beautiful part of the world.

Barbera's well known for having great acidity,

so it is perfect for this kind of food.

But Barbera D'Alba is a little bit up in quality than a basic Barbera.

You're getting a bit more concentration of flavours,

a bit plummy, a bit darker fruits.

Definitely more concentrated, isn't it?

Definitely smells very bacony to me. Do you know what I mean?

-It's got that savoury edge, hasn't it?

-Savoury, yeah.

So what's the damage on the Balbera D'Alba? Cos I'm guessing

that's going to be a bit pricey.

You're up again around the Rosso Di Montalcino price,

so it is a treat wine or a gift wine, a special occasion wine,

that's at the £20 mark as well. But worth it.

-Worth it with the pizza.

-I agree.

It's definitely worth it.

A great drop of wine, a perfect pizza,

a very simple perfect pizza, and a beautiful little salad.

This delicious pizza is full of fantastic ingredients

and low on additives, salt and sugar,

unlike a lot of processed fast food.

Some of us prefer pizzas that way, and we're adults,

we can choose to indulge in naughty food. But what about children?

William Sitwell has a radical solution.

This is a state of emergency.

I believe we need to slap an 18 certificate on junk food.

So by the time you're old enough to fight in a war

or vote in an election, you're also old enough to choose what to eat.

I want a ban on sugar-laden fat-packed food and drink

until adulthood.

We protect our children from harm such as sex

and violence in movies and smoking.

So why don't we do something about junk food?

We certainly need to - right now one in three ten-year-olds are fat,

and that's unacceptable.

Children need to be kept away from the colourful, convenient,

sickly sweet, blood-clottingly salted junk food.

It's a one-way ticket to obesity.

Obesity costs the NHS over £5 billion a year.

We need to protect young people from the stuff that will give them

high blood pressure, diabetes, cancer, strokes.

By 2020, more than 70% of UK adults

are expected to be either overweight or obese.

We know junk food isn't what our kids should be eating

but the helpful health advice isn't getting the job done.

We need legislation to hammer it home.

I think that's a step too far.

I mean, to me, that smacks of the nanny state.

Sometimes, you know, the state needs to nanny.

I'm not a great advocate for banning things,

but if you slap an 18 certificate it will make people really

think about the food they have to eat.

But it will also make something instantly more attractive.

If you're prohibited from something, you want it more.

You know, you would try and drink alcohol,

you would try and smoke and all the rest of it.

If you put an 18 certificate on these things, it really raises

awareness about the fact that junk food is dangerous, is bad for you...

I think we know that, though, don't we?

-We don't know.

-I think we do know that.

We know that smoking's bad for you, so we slap a certificate on that.

We know that drinking is, so we also put an 18 certificate on that.

The legislators may have seemed very harsh at the time

but look how effective that's been.

Look what happened when they banned smoking from pubs.

It's been really effective.

I'm talking about trying to protect children from eating

this stuff that is ultimately going to kill them.

What are you talking about? Ready meals?

You're talking about things full of sugar, full of salt etc?

The way that I would... When I talk about slapping

an 18 certificate on junk food, I'm defining junk food as food

that has a disproportionate amount of fat, sugar and salt.

You fill yourself up on those things.

You then don't allow yourself the room or even the appetite

to have salads and other stuff that's healthy.

But I would argue that you turn it on its head, in a way.

Isn't it the supermarkets' and the Government's responsibility,

in a way, not to necessarily go 18,

but actually to make good food affordable?

The state does too much now at the moment, anyway.

It controls our very being too much already

and I think we have to be given the freedom, but we need education.

Education, for me, is the vital point to this argument,

-but then, also, the parents.

-Parents, as well.

I do believe there's been a couple of generations

that have missed a beat here.

There's enough stress on the education system

to get people to learn to read and write, OK?

To then tell them you've got to learn their numeracy,

their literacy and, by the way,

you've got to give them free food, healthy food

and you've got to teach them how to garden and sow seeds

and then make their own wine...

THEY TALK OVER EACH OTHER

Who's going to police this, by the way?

My British Board Of Food Control will be policing this

very, very strictly.

-It is a full-time job.

-How much is that going to cost?

It'll cost a lot less than the cost to the NHS...

-The problems we'll have in the future.

-Exactly.

Right. Time to name and shame.

I don't know whose...

Whose guilty pleasure's that?!

I know, I know, I think I know.

Pork scratchings, tinned peaches, crisp butty...

Go on, then, Angela, do you think you know?

-I think Michel is peaches...

-Oh!

I think William loves a little pork scratching.

I'm so sorry, Kate, if I've got this wrong,

-but I really think you are Mrs Chip with gravy.

-Mrs Chip!

I thought it was curry sauce, as well.

Well, it could be curry sauce, either will do, and it is me,

and I do hang my head in shame. I love it.

Did you get the rest right? That's the thing.

Well, this is definitely mine, I love a crisp sandwich.

-You're right about me.

-Am I? Is that you?

-Are you a pork scratching sort of guy?

-I love pork scratchings.

I love them when they've got loads of fat on them,

and if there's a little hair,

so much the better. LAUGHTER

Is that a certificate 18?

-No, this is... ALL:

-Ooooh!

These are exempt.

And Michel? I mean, are they healthy? Is that lots of sugar?

For me it's a guilty pleasure because,

-tinned fruit, you know.

-Yeah, yeah, sure.

It goes against the grain.

I'm not convinced it qualifies as a guilty pleasure, though.

-It's fruit!

-It's pleasure!

There's one ingredient that takes star billing

in most of our guilty pleasures.

The stuff we're constantly told clogs up our arteries

and raises our blood pressure -

fat.

But what about how important it is

to the way our food tastes and feels?

Rachel Khoo is fighting fat's corner.

Excuse me while I use the F word - fat.

Silky-smooth ice cream.

Rich Jersey butter.

Sumptuous, unctuous clotted cream on scones.

Fat, like the ones these ladies are responsible for,

has so long been the evil villain

it's hard not to feel guilty about it.

There's increasing evidence that fat isn't that bad for you,

even the saturated kind.

Take full-fat milk.

Some of the fats, proteins and vitamins have been shown

to aid our metabolism, which can actually help keep the pounds off.

Nutritionally, fats are vital to a balanced diet,

and there's one food that perfectly demonstrates

why we find full fat so seductively satisfying.

'For ice cream maker Caroline Spiby,

'there's simply no substitute for the real thing -

'dairy ice cream.'

Oh, wow. Smells good!

OK, where are we starting?

-Right, first of all, this is our pasteuriser.

-Yeah.

So in here we've got the ice cream mix

and we use full-fat milk, which is fresh from the cows.

Then we add double cream

because we're making a traditional ice cream

and traditional dairy ice cream has to have at least 5% fat.

Take note, fat fans,

it's only dairy ice cream that has to contain real cream.

Anything labelled simply "ice cream" can be made

almost entirely from vegetable fat.

And, well, it's just not the same.

By having full-fat products in the ice cream

you get the wonderful texture and the flavour.

And because fats take longer to digest than carbohydrates,

high-fat foods stay in the stomach longer

and delay the feeling of hunger.

Fat actually fills you up.

It already looks really rich and creamy, the consistency.

-And it's thick.

-Yeah.

'Fat gives food an appealing, glossy visual texture.'

OK, I'll try and not make a mess.

'It enhances flavour...'

Blender on.

'..and the way fat coats the tongue means flavour lingers on,

'making full-fat food so delicious.'

What do you think about these low-fat options which often are a substitute

with a lot more sugar and additional flavouring?

Basically, they don't taste as good.

You're taking out the fat,

which gives it the flavour and the texture.

Why change it when it's so good?

This is what I was looking for -

full fat, really thick, it's luscious.

Where's my spoon? I want to eat it now!

Mmm.

I can definitely eat this whole pot on my own.

I'm not suggesting to eat mountains of fatty food -

fat is the most calorie-dense food there is.

But low-fat? You can keep it.

So, if you're going to have something naughty,

why not indulge in a full-fat dessert every now and again?

My personal favourite is a chocolaty salted caramel mousse.

There simply isn't a fat-free alternative for this.

One of my ultimate guilty pleasures is this chocolate mousse,

layered with sweet, sticky, salted caramel sauce.

This really is the dessert

that should bring a big smile to your face.

And it reminds me so much of my childhood.

A gooey caramel sauce like this always starts with sugar.

Put 100 grams into a pan

with a couple of tablespoons of golden syrup and water.

And we let it simmer away and bubble away

until it goes to that lovely golden caramel colour.

The darker you let this caramel go,

the more intense and even bitter the caramel will be,

so it's very important to catch it at that exact moment.

That's it.

We've got that lovely golden brown colour,

and we're ready to add the butter and the cream.

Take the pan off the heat and add 30 grams of butter.

I always use unsalted butter for cooking.

Adding the salt later gives you more control over the flavour.

But first, pour in 80ml of double cream.

You've got to be careful, because it does tend to spit a bit.

Oh, my word! Yum!

And now for just a little sprinkling of sea salt.

Salted caramel.

Enriched with butter and cream.

I mean, just saying those words brings a smile to my face.

While the caramel is cooling, I can get on with the mousse,

starting by separating eight eggs into two bowls.

I always knew as a child when the chocolate mousse was being prepared,

because I could smell the melting chocolate from upstairs in my room.

And then the telltale whisking of the egg whites,

and then we knew we were in for a treat.

Whisk the egg yolks into a mixture of cooled,

good-quality chocolate that's been melted with butter.

And this is just adding more richness to the dish.

There we go. That's it.

The next step is to whisk the egg whites into stiff peaks.

You can, of course, use an electric mixer,

but I like doing it the old-fashioned way.

By hand, the way Mum and Dad used to do it.

And I think it makes you enjoy the dessert even more.

You've earned it.

The egg whites are lovely and smooth.

Silky smooth.

Then add a third of the egg whites to the chocolate mixture.

The reason why we're doing that is so that we can bring this thick

chocolate mixture to the same consistency as the egg white.

That's made this now much lighter.

Then we add the rest of this lovely meringue.

You mustn't over-mix it, because if you do you're going to lose

all that lovely air in the meringue.

There we go, that's it.

Layer up the sweet, sticky, salted caramel

with the rich, chocolaty mousse and top with cream.

Pure indulgence.

Right, so now we need to chill these chocolate mousses,

preferably for about a couple of hours.

But you can actually make them the day before

and just leave them in the fridge.

-Oh, have I got a surprise for you.

-Magnificent.

-Look at those.

-These are luxury.

Chocolate mousse with salted caramel.

-Thank you.

-And...

Fernando de Castilla Antique Pedro Ximenez,

the ultimate in indulgence, guys.

So this is a sweet sherry, Pedro Ximenez is the grape.

It's aged for about 30 years, so it's really complex,

it's got loads of figs, liquorice, molasses, caramel...

I mean, this, if you've got a sweet tooth,

-this is a great match for chocolate.

-Thank you.

First you've got to dive into the chocolate.

And I want you to dig deep

because you've got the layers of the salted caramel inside.

So you've got the mousse, the caramel and the cream. OK.

Mmm.

Oh, my God, it's delicious.

Oh, yeah.

The caramel, oh, wow.

The saltiness in the caramel is delicious.

It'll work great with this.

This is... This is... Phew!

This would definitely have that 18 sticker on it.

SHE LAUGHS

Yeah, that's for sure. You don't need much of that, though. My word.

We're lucky to have so much wonderful food available to us,

and it's here to be enjoyed.

Cooking at home or eating out can be a healthy experience,

or an indulgent one.

Balance the two and you are onto a winner.

'Next time on Food & Drink...

'top chef Monica Galetti proves healthy doesn't mean boring...'

Where does the butter come into this?

There's no butter in this recipe.

But you will like it.

'..Kate makes some unusual drinks choices...'

Here's the pretty pink.

It suits you really well, actually.

'..and I'm making a fantastic tuna tartare.'