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You know, we believe that Britain has the best food in the world. | 0:00:02 | 0:00:07 | |
Not only can we boast fantastic ingredients... | 0:00:07 | 0:00:11 | |
'Outstanding food producers...' | 0:00:13 | 0:00:16 | |
'And innovative chefs...' | 0:00:16 | 0:00:19 | |
'But we also have an amazing food history.' | 0:00:19 | 0:00:22 | |
-Oh, wow! -Don't eat them like that. You'll break your teeth. | 0:00:22 | 0:00:27 | |
Now during this series, | 0:00:29 | 0:00:30 | |
we're going to be taking you on a journey into our culinary past. | 0:00:30 | 0:00:35 | |
-Everything's ready, so let's get cracking. -'We'll explore its revealing stories.' | 0:00:35 | 0:00:39 | |
SI AND DAVE: Wow! | 0:00:39 | 0:00:41 | |
'And meet the heroes that keep our food heritage alive.' | 0:00:41 | 0:00:46 | |
It's a miracle what comes out of the oven. | 0:00:46 | 0:00:48 | |
'And of course be cooking up a load of dishes | 0:00:48 | 0:00:51 | |
'that reveal our foodie evolution.' | 0:00:51 | 0:00:54 | |
Look at that. That's a proper British treat. | 0:00:54 | 0:00:56 | |
We have a taste of history. | 0:01:00 | 0:01:03 | |
-Quite simply... -BOTH: The best of British! | 0:01:05 | 0:01:08 | |
'Tell you what, you know what bees have in common with people?' | 0:01:26 | 0:01:29 | |
'Oh no, is this one of your jokes?' | 0:01:29 | 0:01:32 | |
'Well, no. Well, since you ask, bees are the only animal other than humans | 0:01:32 | 0:01:36 | |
'that treat their food to make it keep longer!' | 0:01:36 | 0:01:40 | |
'Today's programme is all about preserving.' | 0:01:40 | 0:01:45 | |
'The British have some of the best and most diverse preserving traditions in the world.' | 0:01:45 | 0:01:50 | |
We've been preserving food for centuries. | 0:01:50 | 0:01:54 | |
When supplies ran short in the winter months and fresh produce didn't keep that long, | 0:01:54 | 0:01:58 | |
we became masters at conserving food. | 0:01:58 | 0:02:01 | |
Some of Britain's best food products have emerged from our long tradition of preserving | 0:02:01 | 0:02:07 | |
and it proves that practical can be very, very tasty. | 0:02:07 | 0:02:11 | |
Your Janie's been busy, mate. | 0:02:11 | 0:02:14 | |
She has, hasn't she? | 0:02:14 | 0:02:15 | |
'Some of the flavours we enjoy most, like sweet jam, | 0:02:16 | 0:02:21 | |
'smoked fish and salty bacon, come from methods of preserving our grub.' | 0:02:21 | 0:02:28 | |
'We're going to explore those methods, which were once a way of life | 0:02:28 | 0:02:31 | |
'for thousands of British people.' | 0:02:31 | 0:02:35 | |
-'And open the lid on the... -..Ingenious -..idea, | 0:02:35 | 0:02:38 | |
'which changed food preservation forever.' | 0:02:38 | 0:02:41 | |
'We'll be discovering the unique flavours only preserving can develop, | 0:02:43 | 0:02:47 | |
'by cooking up an old fruity classic and an Indian-influenced pickle | 0:02:47 | 0:02:51 | |
'that sets dishes ablaze.' | 0:02:51 | 0:02:54 | |
'And we uncover the story of a food icon | 0:02:54 | 0:02:57 | |
'that's the very best of British.' | 0:02:57 | 0:03:00 | |
'For our first recipe we're going to make piccalilli, | 0:03:06 | 0:03:09 | |
'a pickled preserve that takes a succulent ham hock with a crispy skin | 0:03:09 | 0:03:13 | |
'and totally transforms it.' | 0:03:13 | 0:03:15 | |
'As with many British foods, | 0:03:17 | 0:03:19 | |
'piccalilli is a recipe that is influenced from abroad, | 0:03:19 | 0:03:22 | |
'in this case, by India.' | 0:03:22 | 0:03:24 | |
It's not just any old piccalilli, this is our piccalilli. | 0:03:27 | 0:03:31 | |
It's bouncing, banging hot. | 0:03:31 | 0:03:34 | |
It'll set a ham sandwich alight. | 0:03:34 | 0:03:37 | |
A little ham hock with a potato salad, you drizzle the piccalilli on and all of a sudden, | 0:03:37 | 0:03:41 | |
-Whoa! You've have got a party. -You have. In your mouth. | 0:03:41 | 0:03:45 | |
And because it's a preserve and a pickle, that party's going to go on for years. | 0:03:45 | 0:03:50 | |
'To kick things off, we're going to prepare the ham hock | 0:03:50 | 0:03:53 | |
'by rubbing them all over with oil and seasoning with salt and pepper.' | 0:03:53 | 0:03:58 | |
'A ham hock is a cured cut of meat made from the leg, just below the knee joint.' | 0:03:58 | 0:04:02 | |
Because it's cooked on the bone, it keeps the moisture in the meat and it's very gelatinous. Lovely. | 0:04:02 | 0:04:06 | |
And all that skin's going to go lovely and crispy and gorgeous. | 0:04:06 | 0:04:10 | |
'Piccalilli is what gives us the big flavour hit in this dish. | 0:04:11 | 0:04:16 | |
'Our version uses green beans, courgettes and cauliflower.' | 0:04:16 | 0:04:21 | |
Now, the first references that we can find to piccalilli is by Mrs Raffald, | 0:04:22 | 0:04:27 | |
who in 1772, wrote recipes for Indian chutney or piccalillio. | 0:04:27 | 0:04:33 | |
She said, "It's a chutney made with mustard | 0:04:33 | 0:04:36 | |
"and you can use whatever's to hand, be it kidney beans, cabbage or indeed radishes." | 0:04:36 | 0:04:41 | |
In the early 1900s, | 0:04:41 | 0:04:44 | |
it was known as Indian pickle or English chow chow. | 0:04:44 | 0:04:48 | |
The recipes twist and change depending on what you fancy and what your family's done | 0:04:48 | 0:04:53 | |
because I always think there's a great family history when it comes to pickling | 0:04:53 | 0:04:57 | |
and everybody's got their own little twists and recipes and I love that. | 0:04:57 | 0:05:02 | |
'Depending on the size of your ham hock, cook it at 180 degrees | 0:05:02 | 0:05:06 | |
'for an hour and a half.' | 0:05:06 | 0:05:08 | |
-My friend, could you transform this cauliflower into a myriad of fine florets? -I can. | 0:05:11 | 0:05:16 | |
We want dinky florets, bite-sized pieces, | 0:05:16 | 0:05:20 | |
just ones that are going to get mixed up and burst on your tongue. | 0:05:20 | 0:05:23 | |
By bottling and pickling, you actually create a different product. | 0:05:23 | 0:05:28 | |
I mean, you don't just preserve it, you turn it into something else. | 0:05:28 | 0:05:32 | |
Pickling! You're turning cauliflower into a relish. | 0:05:32 | 0:05:37 | |
-Come on, these are getting bigger now. -That's only little! | 0:05:37 | 0:05:40 | |
-Into four, like so. There is a piccalilli etiquette, you realise. -Oh, yes. | 0:05:40 | 0:05:45 | |
Go on... And again, quadrants. | 0:05:45 | 0:05:49 | |
You see? That's what you want for your piccalilli. | 0:05:49 | 0:05:53 | |
-What about that, look? That's nice. -Too big. | 0:05:53 | 0:05:56 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:05:59 | 0:06:00 | |
Right... | 0:06:00 | 0:06:02 | |
'That's all the veg done now. All we've got to do | 0:06:04 | 0:06:08 | |
'is to salt them, using 100 grams of fine sea salt.' | 0:06:08 | 0:06:11 | |
This is to dry out all the water from the said veg. | 0:06:12 | 0:06:16 | |
When the water's out, we replace that with spice and vinegar | 0:06:16 | 0:06:20 | |
and it becomes a pickle! | 0:06:20 | 0:06:23 | |
Lovely colours, isn't it? | 0:06:23 | 0:06:25 | |
I want to make sure all those little bits of veg are covered with salt. | 0:06:25 | 0:06:29 | |
It may look as though there is a lot of salt there, but it's necessary. | 0:06:29 | 0:06:34 | |
-We're going to wash it off. -We are, that's key. -So don't worry. | 0:06:34 | 0:06:38 | |
Cover that with cling film for 24 hours. | 0:06:40 | 0:06:45 | |
We put this in the fridge for 24 hours for the brining to happen. | 0:06:45 | 0:06:48 | |
You'll be pleased to know that's the second batch. | 0:06:48 | 0:06:51 | |
We got the first batch on yesterday. | 0:06:51 | 0:06:54 | |
And here we are, brined! | 0:06:54 | 0:06:57 | |
-It doesn't look appreciably different. -It doesn't, does it? -It stinks a bit though. | 0:06:57 | 0:07:02 | |
-Ooh, yes. -Oh, aye. | 0:07:02 | 0:07:04 | |
Basically we need to wash the salt off | 0:07:04 | 0:07:06 | |
and that kind of sulphurous odour. | 0:07:06 | 0:07:08 | |
'Honestly, don't worry about the smell. When you wash the salt off, | 0:07:10 | 0:07:13 | |
'it freshens up a treat.' | 0:07:13 | 0:07:15 | |
'Now we need to chop up three medium-sized onions | 0:07:19 | 0:07:22 | |
'and boil them in 300 millilitres of malt vinegar for about 15 minutes.' | 0:07:22 | 0:07:27 | |
'We'll also need 300 millilitres of white wine vinegar. | 0:07:32 | 0:07:36 | |
'I'm going to use five tablespoons of it to blend the spices in.' | 0:07:36 | 0:07:41 | |
It's time to get things hot. | 0:07:41 | 0:07:43 | |
Now to this, a tablespoon of turmeric. | 0:07:43 | 0:07:47 | |
This is what makes a piccalilli a banging yellow colour. | 0:07:47 | 0:07:50 | |
And add to the vinegar and turmeric a very heaped tablespoon, | 0:07:50 | 0:07:55 | |
maybe even a little more, of English mustard powder. | 0:07:55 | 0:07:59 | |
Yes. This one's a feisty one. | 0:07:59 | 0:08:00 | |
To that, a heaped teaspoon of powdered ginger. | 0:08:00 | 0:08:05 | |
And if that wasn't enough, | 0:08:05 | 0:08:08 | |
a heaped teaspoon of chilli flakes. | 0:08:08 | 0:08:11 | |
It's a bit nouveau this, but heck it works. | 0:08:11 | 0:08:15 | |
Mustard, chilli, ginger! | 0:08:15 | 0:08:18 | |
And when you eat it, you see that there, Dave's T-shirt, | 0:08:18 | 0:08:21 | |
that's the reaction. | 0:08:21 | 0:08:22 | |
THEY WHOOP | 0:08:22 | 0:08:24 | |
'Finally, add 25 grams of cornflour | 0:08:24 | 0:08:28 | |
'to thicken up the spice and vinegar mix.' | 0:08:28 | 0:08:31 | |
Can you smell... hot vinegar, onion? | 0:08:31 | 0:08:35 | |
-It's all starting to happen. -It is, isn't it? | 0:08:35 | 0:08:38 | |
I love that smell. | 0:08:38 | 0:08:40 | |
Right-oh. Now to that, we add the remaining white wine vinegar. | 0:08:40 | 0:08:45 | |
'Next, add in 250 grams of granulated sugar.' | 0:08:47 | 0:08:51 | |
And as we're finding in our odyssey of the best of British, | 0:08:51 | 0:08:54 | |
the sweet and sour pops up all the time. | 0:08:54 | 0:08:57 | |
-All the time. -We're mad for it. | 0:08:57 | 0:08:59 | |
-My favourite, favourite taste combination. -Sweet as sweet. -Sour, ooh. | 0:08:59 | 0:09:03 | |
-That's perfect. -It is. -Perfect balance. | 0:09:08 | 0:09:12 | |
That's the key to sweet and sour, particularly with pickles. | 0:09:12 | 0:09:15 | |
You've have got to get that balance right because if it's too sour, nobody's going to eat it. | 0:09:15 | 0:09:20 | |
If it's too sweet, you might as well have made jam. | 0:09:20 | 0:09:23 | |
That is the perfect balance. Ying, Yang, Fred, Ginger, cheese, bread, | 0:09:23 | 0:09:27 | |
-that sort of thing. -Si and Dave! | 0:09:27 | 0:09:29 | |
'Simmer the veg with the onions and vinegar for 10 to 15 minutes, | 0:09:33 | 0:09:36 | |
'but look, don't over do it, eh?' | 0:09:36 | 0:09:39 | |
When you put your piccalilli on your pork pie, or tureen, or ham hock, | 0:09:39 | 0:09:43 | |
you just want it go crunch. | 0:09:43 | 0:09:45 | |
The last thing in the world you want is to be able to spread your cauliflower. | 0:09:45 | 0:09:49 | |
-What will we do? -Could go to the pub and get pickled? -Good idea. | 0:09:49 | 0:09:56 | |
'The ancient methods of preservation like pickling were relied on for centuries, | 0:09:56 | 0:10:00 | |
'but science has played its part in keeping food edible too.' | 0:10:00 | 0:10:05 | |
'And in the 18th century, | 0:10:06 | 0:10:08 | |
'there was a revolution in the way we preserved our foods.' | 0:10:08 | 0:10:13 | |
FRENCH NATIONAL ANTHEM | 0:10:13 | 0:10:16 | |
'In the 1790s, Napoleon had a problem - | 0:10:16 | 0:10:20 | |
'how to feed his vast armies conquering Europe.' | 0:10:20 | 0:10:23 | |
'And the solution came from an unusual source...' | 0:10:23 | 0:10:26 | |
Champagne! | 0:10:26 | 0:10:28 | |
DRUM ROLL | 0:10:28 | 0:10:29 | |
Champagne! | 0:10:29 | 0:10:32 | |
Champagne! | 0:10:32 | 0:10:33 | |
'In 1795, the French government offered 12,000 francs | 0:10:34 | 0:10:38 | |
'to anyone who could come up with a way | 0:10:38 | 0:10:40 | |
'of keeping the food edible for the squaddies.' | 0:10:40 | 0:10:44 | |
'Confectioner and brewer Nicolas Apert claimed the prize | 0:10:44 | 0:10:48 | |
'by preserving food in champagne bottles.' | 0:10:48 | 0:10:53 | |
'Apert put his prepared food into glass bottles, | 0:10:55 | 0:10:57 | |
'sealing them with a cork and wax and then heating them up.' | 0:10:57 | 0:11:03 | |
'It was an effective method, sort of.' | 0:11:03 | 0:11:07 | |
The jars around me I've made according to Apert's recipe, | 0:11:07 | 0:11:11 | |
including one that I have here, which I made 30 years ago. | 0:11:11 | 0:11:15 | |
They may not look too appetising but I'm sure if you ate them, They wouldn't poison you. | 0:11:16 | 0:11:21 | |
I don't think I can be bothered to eat them for you! | 0:11:21 | 0:11:24 | |
'Don't blame you, mate!' | 0:11:24 | 0:11:26 | |
'After 15 years of intensive research, | 0:11:26 | 0:11:29 | |
'Apert published a small bestseller, | 0:11:29 | 0:11:31 | |
'excitingly named The Art Of Preserving Animal And Vegetable Substances For Many Years.' | 0:11:31 | 0:11:37 | |
'His ideas fell into the hands of an Englishman called Peter Durand | 0:11:37 | 0:11:41 | |
'and you can guess what happened next.' | 0:11:41 | 0:11:43 | |
The tin can. | 0:11:44 | 0:11:45 | |
'Early tin cans though, were far too expensive for the masses.' | 0:11:47 | 0:11:51 | |
'And so their main market was the military | 0:11:51 | 0:11:54 | |
'and specialist expeditions of the age.' | 0:11:54 | 0:11:57 | |
'Although cans appeared in 1810, | 0:11:57 | 0:12:00 | |
'nobody actually invented a can opener for another 40 years!' | 0:12:00 | 0:12:04 | |
'But that wasn't the only problem. | 0:12:04 | 0:12:06 | |
'Canning didn't always work. Errgh!' | 0:12:06 | 0:12:10 | |
'It took another Frenchman, Louis Pasteur, | 0:12:10 | 0:12:13 | |
'to figure out exactly why it was our food went off.' | 0:12:13 | 0:12:17 | |
'In 1861, Pasteur showed | 0:12:19 | 0:12:22 | |
'that it was micro-organisms in food that made it go bad | 0:12:22 | 0:12:25 | |
'and that heating it to the right temperature killed them off.' | 0:12:25 | 0:12:30 | |
'Suddenly, canned food took off | 0:12:30 | 0:12:33 | |
'and one particular type was an instant success...' | 0:12:33 | 0:12:37 | |
Bully beef, a corned beef. | 0:12:37 | 0:12:39 | |
'In the First World War, bully beef was an essential ration for the troops. | 0:12:39 | 0:12:43 | |
'It kept the army alive.' | 0:12:43 | 0:12:45 | |
'As if the horrors of trench warfare weren't bad enough, | 0:12:45 | 0:12:48 | |
'the delightful canned meals just kept on coming.' | 0:12:48 | 0:12:52 | |
This is Maconochies, | 0:12:53 | 0:12:55 | |
normally beef and vegetables, or beans and pork. | 0:12:55 | 0:12:59 | |
They always called it the same thing, dog vomit. | 0:12:59 | 0:13:02 | |
'But whatever they called it, there was no stopping our love affair with tinned food.' | 0:13:02 | 0:13:08 | |
'Over the next century, mass production made canned food | 0:13:11 | 0:13:15 | |
'cheap enough for everyone... and the food industry went canning mad.' | 0:13:15 | 0:13:20 | |
Today they're making a traditional Scottish soup, Cock A Leekie. | 0:13:20 | 0:13:24 | |
Each vat, by the way, contains 100 gallons, | 0:13:24 | 0:13:27 | |
enough to fill 1,000 cans of soup. | 0:13:27 | 0:13:30 | |
'Now if you can eat it, or drink it, it's being sold in a tin. | 0:13:38 | 0:13:43 | |
'Thanks to canning, there's nothing that can't be preserved for years.' | 0:13:43 | 0:13:47 | |
'And you can always find something to eat in the back of the cupboard.' | 0:13:47 | 0:13:52 | |
-'Very canny that.' -'Oh dear!' | 0:13:52 | 0:13:56 | |
'Back in the Best Of British kitchen, the veg for our piccalilli are ready | 0:14:00 | 0:14:04 | |
'and it's time to add our blend of spices.' | 0:14:04 | 0:14:08 | |
Now remember, in this cauldron of fire, | 0:14:10 | 0:14:12 | |
it's good we've got white wine vinegar. | 0:14:12 | 0:14:15 | |
Smell that! SIMON COUGHS | 0:14:15 | 0:14:18 | |
Oh, it's like mustard gas! It'll be all right! | 0:14:18 | 0:14:21 | |
Don't you worry at home, sitting, eating your tea. This will be great. | 0:14:21 | 0:14:26 | |
-Here we go. I think we should kick off on the heat. -Yes, exactly that. | 0:14:26 | 0:14:31 | |
-Now you, see that's where the piccalilli gets its colour from, the turmeric. -Yes. | 0:14:31 | 0:14:36 | |
Turmeric is a vicious colour. Keep it away from your marble tops! | 0:14:36 | 0:14:40 | |
Turmeric was probably first cultivated as a dye, | 0:14:40 | 0:14:45 | |
but then interestingly enough, it was often used as a replacement | 0:14:45 | 0:14:48 | |
to the more costly saffron in food because it gives it that sort of | 0:14:48 | 0:14:52 | |
lovely yellow tinge which you can seen in our piccalilli. Fabulous. | 0:14:52 | 0:14:56 | |
-It's beginning to smell like piccalilli, not mustard gas. -Quite! | 0:14:56 | 0:15:00 | |
And you see the sauce has gone really, really thick now. | 0:15:00 | 0:15:03 | |
-The chilli flakes are clinging to those little bits of veg. -Should we? | 0:15:03 | 0:15:07 | |
After you. | 0:15:07 | 0:15:09 | |
Just trace that over your gammon joint. | 0:15:09 | 0:15:12 | |
That...is gorgeous. | 0:15:15 | 0:15:17 | |
'But you can't eat it now. It needs to mature. | 0:15:19 | 0:15:22 | |
'Fill some sterilised jars with the piccalilli mixture.' | 0:15:24 | 0:15:29 | |
Lovely. | 0:15:29 | 0:15:30 | |
-It's lovely, that. -Look how it's filling the jar up. | 0:15:30 | 0:15:33 | |
-That's handy. -It looks so good, it could have been bought. | 0:15:33 | 0:15:38 | |
'Then put them in a cool, dark place for at least a month.' | 0:15:38 | 0:15:41 | |
-Oh, it's so worth it. -Oh, it is. It's lovely, this. -This is relish gold. | 0:15:41 | 0:15:46 | |
Imagine a smearing of this on your burger. It'd raise Lazarus, that. | 0:15:46 | 0:15:51 | |
'We've still got ham hocks waiting in the oven, though.' | 0:15:51 | 0:15:54 | |
Look at this. | 0:15:54 | 0:15:56 | |
'But luckily piccalilli is something | 0:15:57 | 0:15:59 | |
'you can always have tucked away in your cupboard...' | 0:15:59 | 0:16:02 | |
-Ahhh, yes! -Look at them! | 0:16:02 | 0:16:04 | |
'..for just such an occasion.' | 0:16:04 | 0:16:07 | |
-You were made to be together. You and you. -Fred and Ginger. | 0:16:07 | 0:16:09 | |
'Ham hocks and piccalilli might be the perfect couple | 0:16:13 | 0:16:17 | |
'but to make a meal of it | 0:16:17 | 0:16:19 | |
'we're inviting the potato salad to the party as well.' | 0:16:19 | 0:16:23 | |
-Now, shall we unleash the beast? -Yeah, go on! | 0:16:23 | 0:16:26 | |
Ha-ha-ha-ha! | 0:16:33 | 0:16:34 | |
Look at that. | 0:16:34 | 0:16:36 | |
# Yeah, everybody | 0:16:37 | 0:16:39 | |
# Let's have some fun | 0:16:39 | 0:16:42 | |
# You only live but once... # | 0:16:42 | 0:16:43 | |
That is right good pickle. | 0:16:43 | 0:16:46 | |
I'll shut the lid just in case it escapes! | 0:16:51 | 0:16:53 | |
-I can't wait to taste this pickle. -Go on, go on. | 0:16:55 | 0:16:59 | |
It's safe to approach. | 0:17:10 | 0:17:12 | |
# Let the good times roll! # | 0:17:12 | 0:17:16 | |
That piccalilli, it was a bit raw when we first made it. | 0:17:23 | 0:17:26 | |
But it has matured, settled down. | 0:17:26 | 0:17:28 | |
The lovely thing about it... | 0:17:32 | 0:17:34 | |
is that it's got a real sweet and sour to it | 0:17:34 | 0:17:37 | |
but also a lovely, but subtle, hit of chilli. | 0:17:37 | 0:17:40 | |
-Nice. Really good. -It's not all mustard. Bit of ginger going on. | 0:17:40 | 0:17:45 | |
-It's quite a complex little thing. -Absolutely wonderful. -Yeah. | 0:17:47 | 0:17:52 | |
Preserving isn't simply about making food last longer. | 0:17:52 | 0:17:56 | |
Some methods of preserving food, you can take something quite simple | 0:17:56 | 0:17:59 | |
and make it very, very special. | 0:17:59 | 0:18:01 | |
The great thing is, with a ham hock, because the meat's so unctuous, | 0:18:01 | 0:18:05 | |
we have got all the combinations that your palate loves. | 0:18:05 | 0:18:08 | |
You've got a savoury note, a sweet note, | 0:18:08 | 0:18:11 | |
a sour note, and then a little bit of heat with the chilli. | 0:18:11 | 0:18:14 | |
-It's a perfect combo, man. -Yeah. | 0:18:14 | 0:18:17 | |
'This is piccalilli for the 21st century. | 0:18:17 | 0:18:20 | |
'It's cheap to make and lasts for ages but, most importantly, | 0:18:21 | 0:18:26 | |
'it adds a huge depth of flavour to the right dish.' | 0:18:26 | 0:18:29 | |
Making vegetables last is one thing | 0:18:37 | 0:18:40 | |
but when it comes to meat, and especially fish, | 0:18:40 | 0:18:43 | |
there's a method of preserving that you just can't beat. | 0:18:43 | 0:18:47 | |
Smoking. | 0:18:47 | 0:18:49 | |
On the Suffolk coast there's a family business that knows | 0:18:49 | 0:18:53 | |
a thing or two about preserving fish. | 0:18:53 | 0:18:56 | |
Pinney's catch their own fish and seafood, | 0:18:56 | 0:19:00 | |
smoke it on site and even serve it up in their family restaurant. | 0:19:00 | 0:19:04 | |
Best-of-British-food hero Bill Pinney is the manager. | 0:19:06 | 0:19:10 | |
He's been smoking fish by hand since he was a boy. | 0:19:10 | 0:19:13 | |
The secret of his success is the blackened smokehouse | 0:19:13 | 0:19:17 | |
built around the back of the family home by Bill's dad. | 0:19:17 | 0:19:21 | |
What we do here is almost totally different to how salmon is smoked | 0:19:21 | 0:19:25 | |
in a factory nowadays. | 0:19:25 | 0:19:27 | |
There's no buttons you press here, no fans, no electricity involved. | 0:19:27 | 0:19:31 | |
It's the oak smoke and how the box is handled. | 0:19:31 | 0:19:34 | |
To produce the smoke at the right temperature, | 0:19:34 | 0:19:37 | |
you need to know how to handle the box. | 0:19:37 | 0:19:40 | |
You need to get smoke at the lower temperatures, | 0:19:40 | 0:19:42 | |
where the alcohols and ethers, | 0:19:42 | 0:19:44 | |
the sweet-smelling smoke in the wood, comes off. | 0:19:44 | 0:19:47 | |
And this method produces a smoked fish that is different | 0:19:47 | 0:19:50 | |
than you'll get anywhere else. | 0:19:50 | 0:19:52 | |
It's still an art, it's not an industrial process. | 0:19:52 | 0:19:55 | |
You can really taste the difference. | 0:19:55 | 0:19:57 | |
In the smokehouse the mackerel and trout are treated by a process | 0:19:58 | 0:20:02 | |
called hot smoking, during which the fish are cooked. | 0:20:02 | 0:20:06 | |
We've taken the lid off and opened up the air vent at the bottom. | 0:20:06 | 0:20:10 | |
The smoke is now being consumed as flames. | 0:20:10 | 0:20:13 | |
The hot smoking end then becomes in effect an oven, | 0:20:13 | 0:20:16 | |
so it'll only take ten or 15 minutes | 0:20:16 | 0:20:18 | |
and at the end of that time they're cooked and ready to eat. | 0:20:18 | 0:20:22 | |
The smoke boxes are fuelled by burning whole oak logs, | 0:20:24 | 0:20:27 | |
but not everything is hot-smoked here. | 0:20:27 | 0:20:29 | |
Some fish, like salmon, are coal-smoked, | 0:20:29 | 0:20:32 | |
which preserves the flavour of the fish without cooking it. | 0:20:32 | 0:20:37 | |
In these two bays we've got smoked salmon, | 0:20:37 | 0:20:39 | |
or salmon that's being smoked. | 0:20:39 | 0:20:42 | |
That has now been in there for about 12 hours | 0:20:42 | 0:20:45 | |
and it's probably going to be in there for possibly another 24. | 0:20:45 | 0:20:48 | |
It's quite soft at this stage and you can see by the touch that, | 0:20:48 | 0:20:51 | |
although the skin has dried off and you've got a bit of colour on there, | 0:20:51 | 0:20:55 | |
it's still got quite a long way to go. | 0:20:55 | 0:20:58 | |
# Come here, my little Jackie Now I've smoked me baccy | 0:20:58 | 0:21:01 | |
# Let's have a bit of cracky Till the boat comes in. # | 0:21:01 | 0:21:03 | |
Although nowadays people think of smoking for flavour, | 0:21:03 | 0:21:06 | |
it was originally a method of preserving fish | 0:21:06 | 0:21:10 | |
to make it last longer. | 0:21:10 | 0:21:11 | |
For generations along the east coast, | 0:21:11 | 0:21:14 | |
fleets of trawlers landed huge catches of herring | 0:21:14 | 0:21:17 | |
to be split in half and coal-smoked as kippers or left whole as bloaters. | 0:21:17 | 0:21:21 | |
The herring fleet was made up of ships from across Britain, | 0:21:24 | 0:21:28 | |
who followed the migration of the herring shoals | 0:21:28 | 0:21:31 | |
from Stornoway down to Great Yarmouth in the autumn. | 0:21:31 | 0:21:33 | |
It was accompanied by armies of women from the villages of Scotland, | 0:21:33 | 0:21:37 | |
who travelled down the coast | 0:21:37 | 0:21:40 | |
to work long and dirty hours skilfully gutting the herring. | 0:21:40 | 0:21:43 | |
Then the fish would be salted | 0:21:43 | 0:21:45 | |
and hung in the smoker for a long, long time. | 0:21:45 | 0:21:48 | |
And it would still be fit to eat eight months later. | 0:21:50 | 0:21:54 | |
Rather you than me, though, mate. | 0:21:54 | 0:21:56 | |
Sadly, the east coast herring industry is long gone, | 0:21:59 | 0:22:02 | |
but Billy's smoking another delicacy | 0:22:02 | 0:22:04 | |
that has been gathered in these waters since Roman times. | 0:22:04 | 0:22:08 | |
Oysters. | 0:22:08 | 0:22:09 | |
What we're doing at the moment is dredging for oysters. | 0:22:10 | 0:22:14 | |
The oysters lie loose on the sea bed or the river bed | 0:22:14 | 0:22:17 | |
and we're using a dredge which scoops the oysters off the bottom | 0:22:17 | 0:22:22 | |
and then catches them in a bag net. | 0:22:22 | 0:22:24 | |
And hopefully when I haul up we'll have a nice bagful of oysters. | 0:22:24 | 0:22:28 | |
The oyster beds at Butley Creek had fallen into disuse | 0:22:31 | 0:22:34 | |
in the early 1900s. | 0:22:34 | 0:22:35 | |
Bill's dad resurrected them by seeding them with fresh stock. | 0:22:35 | 0:22:40 | |
And Bill's still farming them today. | 0:22:40 | 0:22:42 | |
Nice bagful. | 0:22:43 | 0:22:45 | |
We've got some lovely oysters here for smoking. | 0:22:50 | 0:22:52 | |
Some of these are just perfect, lovely sized oysters. | 0:22:52 | 0:22:55 | |
These are a few years old now. These are actually the... Whoops! | 0:22:55 | 0:23:00 | |
That one's making a bid for freedom. | 0:23:00 | 0:23:02 | |
These are a Japanese type of oyster, a Pacific oyster. | 0:23:02 | 0:23:05 | |
They grew originally in Japan but they've been brought over to Europe. | 0:23:05 | 0:23:08 | |
And 90% of the European production is made up from this type of oyster. | 0:23:08 | 0:23:13 | |
Ah, man, I love oysters. | 0:23:13 | 0:23:14 | |
They're little bundles of loveliness. | 0:23:14 | 0:23:18 | |
In fact, at Bill's family restaurant they've got a great recipe | 0:23:18 | 0:23:22 | |
that'll tango on your taste buds. | 0:23:22 | 0:23:24 | |
First up, the oysters have to be smoked for a couple of hours. | 0:23:26 | 0:23:30 | |
Then it's over to the restaurant in Orford, where daughter Jodie | 0:23:30 | 0:23:34 | |
takes the oysters and turns them into angels on horseback. | 0:23:34 | 0:23:39 | |
It's really simple. | 0:23:39 | 0:23:40 | |
Add a pinch of parsley and chopped onion to some bacon | 0:23:40 | 0:23:43 | |
and wrap it around the delicious oyster. | 0:23:43 | 0:23:46 | |
The oysters have only been smoked for a couple of hours | 0:23:46 | 0:23:48 | |
so they're not too overpowering and they have a delicate sweet flavour, | 0:23:48 | 0:23:52 | |
so once they're grilled they'll be delicious. | 0:23:52 | 0:23:55 | |
When I was a child Mum and Dad always tried to get me | 0:23:55 | 0:23:57 | |
to eat oysters but I wasn't having any of it, | 0:23:57 | 0:24:00 | |
so the only way they could do it | 0:24:00 | 0:24:02 | |
was to try and, well, sneak them in by cooking them in a bit of bacon. | 0:24:02 | 0:24:06 | |
Yeah, that's how I got into eating oysters. | 0:24:06 | 0:24:08 | |
After eight minutes under the grill, they're ready to pop on a bit of toast. | 0:24:08 | 0:24:12 | |
Top nosh. | 0:24:12 | 0:24:15 | |
We're one of the very few places that actually grow our own oysters, | 0:24:18 | 0:24:21 | |
catch our own fish, smoke our own fish | 0:24:21 | 0:24:24 | |
and serve it in our own restaurant. | 0:24:24 | 0:24:27 | |
Traditional smoked seafood made the family way. | 0:24:27 | 0:24:30 | |
-It's authentic and it's as good as it gets. -Aye, just like us. | 0:24:30 | 0:24:34 | |
In Britain we've traditionally employed | 0:24:41 | 0:24:44 | |
an array of preserving methods | 0:24:44 | 0:24:46 | |
to ensure we've eaten well all year round. | 0:24:46 | 0:24:49 | |
What could be more quintessentially British than marmalade? | 0:24:49 | 0:24:53 | |
As well as being a classic preserve, marmalade is big business. | 0:24:56 | 0:25:00 | |
We spend around £60 million a year on it in Britain, | 0:25:00 | 0:25:04 | |
eating our way through 30 million litres' worth. | 0:25:04 | 0:25:08 | |
To find out more about the origins of the marmalade we know and love today, we're off to Dundee. | 0:25:08 | 0:25:14 | |
Dundee is legendary as the birthplace of marmalade | 0:25:21 | 0:25:25 | |
but, as with many legends, there's more than a bit of myth involved. | 0:25:25 | 0:25:29 | |
The story goes that in the 18th century a Spanish ship | 0:25:33 | 0:25:36 | |
containing Seville oranges was forced into port during a storm. | 0:25:36 | 0:25:41 | |
The fruit ended up with a local sweetmaker called Janet Keiller, | 0:25:41 | 0:25:46 | |
who chopped them up and turned them into a kind of orange jam. | 0:25:46 | 0:25:50 | |
It was called marmalade | 0:25:50 | 0:25:51 | |
and the name of Keiller's was made famous all over the world. | 0:25:51 | 0:25:55 | |
Well, that's the story, | 0:25:58 | 0:26:00 | |
but to find out the truth we've come to the McManus Museum | 0:26:00 | 0:26:04 | |
to meet the curator of social history, Rhona Rodger. | 0:26:04 | 0:26:08 | |
What's the story? | 0:26:08 | 0:26:10 | |
Yes, well, there's a few myths surrounding marmalade in Dundee. | 0:26:10 | 0:26:15 | |
Keiller's, although they didn't invent Dundee marmalade, | 0:26:15 | 0:26:18 | |
-they produced what we now know today as marmalade. -Right. | 0:26:18 | 0:26:22 | |
So they took old recipes that would have been available at the time | 0:26:22 | 0:26:26 | |
and changed it into what was more sort of a jam-based consistency | 0:26:26 | 0:26:31 | |
and added the chips, as they're called, the peel. | 0:26:31 | 0:26:34 | |
What would marmalade have been before it was marmalade | 0:26:34 | 0:26:38 | |
and Keiller's took it and...made it into something. | 0:26:38 | 0:26:42 | |
-What would it have been? -Well, before, in the 1700s and things, | 0:26:42 | 0:26:45 | |
there were recipes for marmalade, erm... | 0:26:45 | 0:26:48 | |
but it would have been a more... it would have been a dessert. | 0:26:48 | 0:26:51 | |
The dessert was based on a Portuguese delicacy called marmelada. | 0:26:54 | 0:26:58 | |
It was a kind of cake made from quince. | 0:26:58 | 0:27:01 | |
This ancient preserve goes back a long way. | 0:27:03 | 0:27:05 | |
Henry VIII was given it as a gift in the 1500s but over time it evolved | 0:27:05 | 0:27:10 | |
and by the 18th century in Scotland they were making it using oranges. | 0:27:10 | 0:27:15 | |
When Keiller's turned it into something you could spread on your toast, | 0:27:16 | 0:27:20 | |
it became a bestseller. | 0:27:20 | 0:27:22 | |
They were the largest confectioners in Britain | 0:27:23 | 0:27:26 | |
and marmalade became probably their main product | 0:27:26 | 0:27:29 | |
and Scottish people stopped having it as a dessert and they liked | 0:27:29 | 0:27:33 | |
to have it, this warming, sort of tangy flavour, for their breakfasts. | 0:27:33 | 0:27:37 | |
It was cheaper than butter, so it was available to everyone, | 0:27:37 | 0:27:41 | |
and then it sort of spread out across the Empire | 0:27:41 | 0:27:43 | |
and across the world. | 0:27:43 | 0:27:45 | |
So it was exported to the whole of Asia, Australasia, | 0:27:45 | 0:27:48 | |
there was a big export business to New Zealand, | 0:27:48 | 0:27:50 | |
where there were a lot of Scottish people. | 0:27:50 | 0:27:52 | |
This huge marmalade empire relied on Seville oranges from Spain. | 0:27:54 | 0:27:59 | |
They were once the only orange available in Europe. | 0:28:00 | 0:28:03 | |
Their bitter and sour taste was perfect for marmalade | 0:28:03 | 0:28:06 | |
but meant that they weren't much use for anything else. | 0:28:06 | 0:28:10 | |
And Keiller's were producing marmalade by the bucketload. | 0:28:11 | 0:28:15 | |
Where did they store it? Because clearly it's a huge, huge industry. | 0:28:15 | 0:28:19 | |
Yes, well, when they made it they would just put it in its pot | 0:28:19 | 0:28:23 | |
straight from being hot and it was, erm, | 0:28:23 | 0:28:26 | |
a woman's job then to come along and cover all the pots. | 0:28:26 | 0:28:29 | |
Originally they were covered with bladder | 0:28:29 | 0:28:31 | |
and then it went on to be covered with a parchment paper | 0:28:31 | 0:28:35 | |
and tied, so that's why we have no surviving lids. | 0:28:35 | 0:28:38 | |
And the pots came from Newcastle, so... | 0:28:38 | 0:28:41 | |
-Was that from Maling, from the Maling Pottery? -Yes, it was. | 0:28:41 | 0:28:44 | |
And they used about 1.5 million of those pots a year. | 0:28:44 | 0:28:48 | |
What's the significance of the cricket bat? | 0:28:48 | 0:28:51 | |
Well, this is a jam stirrer that would have been used... | 0:28:52 | 0:28:56 | |
Someone would have stood and constantly stirred the marmalade and the jams | 0:28:56 | 0:29:00 | |
in the big copper pans that the jam and marmalade was made in. | 0:29:00 | 0:29:04 | |
This is the preserves department, where they make jams and marmalade. | 0:29:05 | 0:29:10 | |
Today it's marmalade. | 0:29:10 | 0:29:12 | |
Marmalade production was seasonal, running from December to around March. | 0:29:12 | 0:29:16 | |
Once it was over, the factories would switch their processes to making jam. | 0:29:16 | 0:29:21 | |
This girl's job is to keep feeding empty jars onto the conveyor line. The jars are automatically filled. | 0:29:21 | 0:29:27 | |
By the 20th century, marmalade was an essential food on breakfast tables everywhere. | 0:29:27 | 0:29:32 | |
Famously the favourite preserve of British icons like Paddington Bear | 0:29:32 | 0:29:37 | |
and Winston Churchill. | 0:29:37 | 0:29:38 | |
This magnifying screen lets you see | 0:29:38 | 0:29:40 | |
if there's any burnt peel or foreign bodies in the marmalade. | 0:29:40 | 0:29:44 | |
Keiller was bought out in the 1900s, but marmalade has | 0:29:44 | 0:29:48 | |
continued to be made in the Dundee area right up to the present date. | 0:29:48 | 0:29:52 | |
Mackays are the last producer of Dundee's iconic marmalade. | 0:29:54 | 0:29:58 | |
It's a family run business and we have come to meet managing director Martin Grant. | 0:29:58 | 0:30:03 | |
-Welcome to Mackays. -Hello, Martin. -Very nice to meet you, sir. | 0:30:03 | 0:30:07 | |
Good to meet you. Come on through. Last pours are about to start. | 0:30:07 | 0:30:10 | |
Brilliant. We will follow you. | 0:30:10 | 0:30:12 | |
The company makes its marmalade the traditional way, | 0:30:14 | 0:30:18 | |
so we are going to see how it is done. | 0:30:18 | 0:30:20 | |
Making marmalade at home might be a bit of a peaceful process, | 0:30:20 | 0:30:24 | |
but producing it on an industrial scale, well, it is a bit noisy. | 0:30:24 | 0:30:28 | |
These are the vats that you pour the marmalade mixture in? | 0:30:28 | 0:30:33 | |
Yes, this is the original style, so this is as close to home-made as you'll get in a commercial world. | 0:30:33 | 0:30:38 | |
Their marmalade is made in a series of small vats rather than a single large one, | 0:30:43 | 0:30:48 | |
which allows them to control the cooking more easily. | 0:30:48 | 0:30:54 | |
The copper bottomed vats are steam heated, which gives a constant | 0:30:54 | 0:30:57 | |
temperature to allow the flavours to cook slowly and intensely. | 0:30:57 | 0:31:02 | |
It does not take long to make a jar of marmalade. | 0:31:05 | 0:31:07 | |
First off, you need to add liquid cane sugar. | 0:31:07 | 0:31:11 | |
Then comes the orange pulp. | 0:31:14 | 0:31:16 | |
Depending on what time of year the marmalade is being made, | 0:31:18 | 0:31:21 | |
you might need to add more pectin. | 0:31:21 | 0:31:23 | |
This is the substance in the oranges that makes the marmalade thicken. | 0:31:23 | 0:31:27 | |
How much extra you need depends on when the oranges were good. | 0:31:27 | 0:31:31 | |
You want to make sure the marmalade is the same | 0:31:31 | 0:31:34 | |
whether it be January or December, all the way through. | 0:31:34 | 0:31:38 | |
You have to moderate the pectin levels, | 0:31:38 | 0:31:41 | |
so early crop fruits is really, really high in pectin, so we use less. | 0:31:41 | 0:31:44 | |
At the end of the season, it is really low in pectin, | 0:31:44 | 0:31:47 | |
so we have to add it to get it to set. | 0:31:47 | 0:31:50 | |
That is how we have to do it. | 0:31:50 | 0:31:51 | |
So we change depending on how old the fruit is. | 0:31:51 | 0:31:55 | |
When it starts to boil, the mixture is stirred with a paddle. | 0:31:59 | 0:32:03 | |
Then it is boiled vigorously for a full 18 minutes. | 0:32:03 | 0:32:09 | |
It boils up like molten lava. | 0:32:12 | 0:32:14 | |
So you certainly wouldn't want to do this at home. | 0:32:14 | 0:32:17 | |
That vat there, with the steam going, | 0:32:17 | 0:32:19 | |
it is like Willy Wonka's chocolate factory. | 0:32:19 | 0:32:22 | |
Martin believes cooking marmalade slowly for 18 minutes gives a better flavour. | 0:32:24 | 0:32:29 | |
Larger manufacturers cook theirs in pressure cookers for just three minutes. | 0:32:29 | 0:32:34 | |
Just degrades the quality of the fruit, the flavour and the taste. | 0:32:36 | 0:32:39 | |
But the trick with this is knowing when to shut it off. | 0:32:39 | 0:32:44 | |
To make sure the marmalade is reaching the right consistency, | 0:32:44 | 0:32:49 | |
its thickness is tested. If it boils for too long, | 0:32:49 | 0:32:52 | |
it'll taste like burnt candy floss. | 0:32:52 | 0:32:54 | |
What do you reckon? | 0:32:54 | 0:32:57 | |
-It's perfect. -Perfect. See, the lass from Mackays, she says yes. | 0:32:57 | 0:33:04 | |
Once it's cooled a bit, it's ready to go, | 0:33:05 | 0:33:08 | |
though sometimes you might want to add a little bit of something extra. | 0:33:08 | 0:33:12 | |
-They must trust you. -Just. -They've got to, he's signed a pledge. | 0:33:12 | 0:33:17 | |
That is amazing. | 0:33:22 | 0:33:24 | |
It is good to know, though, when you treat yourself to a nice, | 0:33:24 | 0:33:27 | |
posh jar of marmalade, with a bit of the good stuff in, | 0:33:27 | 0:33:31 | |
this is the good stuff that's going in. | 0:33:31 | 0:33:35 | |
-All that, seven bottles. -Seven bottles? | 0:33:35 | 0:33:37 | |
It is getting better all the time! Fantastic! | 0:33:37 | 0:33:40 | |
-That is another good product. It is good here, isn't it? -It is. | 0:33:40 | 0:33:44 | |
It is interesting. | 0:33:44 | 0:33:45 | |
-Here we are, guys. -Great. -Heaven. -Toasted by you guys today. Well... | 0:33:46 | 0:33:53 | |
Now the best bit - marmalade tasting. | 0:33:53 | 0:33:57 | |
It is the most wonderful, great, | 0:33:57 | 0:33:59 | |
traditional pleasures in life, isn't it? Toast and marmalade. | 0:33:59 | 0:34:03 | |
The story of the product is from the kitchen, | 0:34:03 | 0:34:07 | |
so we have tried to keep as close to that as possible. | 0:34:07 | 0:34:09 | |
It's cooked in the old-fashioned way and we do not muck about with it, | 0:34:09 | 0:34:13 | |
nothing else goes into that product. | 0:34:13 | 0:34:15 | |
It is great ingredients, not messed about with, equals a brilliant product, | 0:34:15 | 0:34:19 | |
and that in essence is the best of British, isn't it? | 0:34:19 | 0:34:21 | |
It is very heart-warming to know that the marmalade traditions | 0:34:21 | 0:34:25 | |
and industry is alive and well in the north-east of Scotland. | 0:34:25 | 0:34:28 | |
It is a preserve that can bring sunshine to a winter's day, can't it? | 0:34:28 | 0:34:31 | |
-Absolutely. -That is the idea of preserving. -Absolutely. | 0:34:31 | 0:34:34 | |
You have your oranges, it's one thing eating them in the sun, | 0:34:34 | 0:34:37 | |
you can have a little bit of it every day. | 0:34:37 | 0:34:40 | |
Jams and marmalade aren't the only useful way | 0:34:44 | 0:34:46 | |
of preserving citrussy fruit. | 0:34:46 | 0:34:49 | |
We're going to make some deliciously British lemon curd. | 0:34:49 | 0:34:53 | |
And then we are going to bring a bit of excitement to some lemon and blueberry muffins. | 0:34:53 | 0:34:59 | |
I'm going to make the lemon curd and I'm just going to make | 0:34:59 | 0:35:03 | |
a couple of jars of it and keep that for my tea. | 0:35:03 | 0:35:06 | |
With the leftovers, Mr King is going to apply them to make | 0:35:06 | 0:35:10 | |
the most delicious blueberry and lemon muffins you have ever tasted. | 0:35:10 | 0:35:14 | |
Our lemon curd is basically made using a combination of eggs | 0:35:14 | 0:35:17 | |
and lemons cooked over simmering water. | 0:35:17 | 0:35:21 | |
To start with, you need four whole eggs, then four egg yolks. | 0:35:21 | 0:35:25 | |
While Dave's doing that, | 0:35:25 | 0:35:28 | |
I am going to start melting 100 grams of butter for the muffins. | 0:35:28 | 0:35:32 | |
These are American muffins, | 0:35:32 | 0:35:34 | |
which basically is a puffed-up fairy cake in my eyes, | 0:35:34 | 0:35:37 | |
and muffins should be English, soft and doughy. | 0:35:37 | 0:35:40 | |
In the 19th century, we used to have muffin men that wandered round the streets. | 0:35:40 | 0:35:44 | |
But somebody moaned and complained that the bell was too loud | 0:35:44 | 0:35:48 | |
because that's how they used to tell the muffin man was in the street. | 0:35:48 | 0:35:52 | |
Then there was a decree from the government to say, "Excuse me, muffin man, stop ringing your bell." | 0:35:52 | 0:35:57 | |
-Some people moan about everything! -Don't they?! | 0:35:57 | 0:35:59 | |
Beat the egg mixture together with a whisk | 0:35:59 | 0:36:03 | |
and grate in the zest of three lemons. | 0:36:03 | 0:36:05 | |
While Dave's zesting his lemons, I'm putting in some self-raising flour | 0:36:07 | 0:36:11 | |
and sifting it into a bowl with a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda. | 0:36:11 | 0:36:16 | |
There is part of the history of lemons that is quite sad. | 0:36:16 | 0:36:20 | |
Christopher Columbus, | 0:36:20 | 0:36:22 | |
he established a settlement on Haiti and they were growing lemons, | 0:36:22 | 0:36:25 | |
and lemons started coming backwards and forwards from the New World. | 0:36:25 | 0:36:29 | |
Sailors all over the place were dying of scurvy. | 0:36:29 | 0:36:32 | |
The ships were full of lemons and nobody realised that | 0:36:32 | 0:36:35 | |
if they had eaten the lemons, they wouldn't die. | 0:36:35 | 0:36:37 | |
'Mix two whole eggs together...' | 0:36:41 | 0:36:44 | |
One. | 0:36:44 | 0:36:46 | |
'..then add two tablespoons of milk and 150mls of yoghurt, | 0:36:46 | 0:36:52 | |
'and whisk until it is really smooth.' | 0:36:52 | 0:36:56 | |
Then I've melted some butter in a pan and we add that as well. | 0:36:56 | 0:37:01 | |
Once that's done, | 0:37:03 | 0:37:05 | |
you're ready to add 100 grams of caster sugar to the flour | 0:37:05 | 0:37:08 | |
with 100 grams of blueberries. | 0:37:08 | 0:37:12 | |
-Do you want a lemon, mate? -Go on, mate. -Incoming. | 0:37:12 | 0:37:15 | |
And the zest of a lemon. | 0:37:15 | 0:37:17 | |
Mix all the dry goods together and just make sure that you get | 0:37:19 | 0:37:22 | |
all of those blueberries evenly distributed in the flour. | 0:37:22 | 0:37:26 | |
If you don't, somebody will feel cheated when they eat the muffin. | 0:37:26 | 0:37:30 | |
Pour the eggy mixture into the flour and blueberry mix. Look at that. | 0:37:30 | 0:37:34 | |
Lovely, silky, smooth. | 0:37:34 | 0:37:37 | |
Now, combine the wet with the dry to make the cake mix. | 0:37:37 | 0:37:43 | |
Now for the curd. | 0:37:46 | 0:37:47 | |
We need the juice of six lemons... | 0:37:47 | 0:37:50 | |
Funny thing is, you call lemon curd a preserve. | 0:37:50 | 0:37:54 | |
It is really, but it was never as popular as jam | 0:37:54 | 0:37:56 | |
because jam always kept better than lemon curd. | 0:37:56 | 0:37:59 | |
Pour this lemon juice into the eggs with the zest. | 0:38:01 | 0:38:04 | |
Yes, it really does need all that lemon juice. | 0:38:04 | 0:38:10 | |
Then add 100 grams caster sugar and the same amount of butter. | 0:38:10 | 0:38:17 | |
This is where the fun starts. | 0:38:17 | 0:38:19 | |
We mustn't put that bowl into direct contact with the boiling water, | 0:38:19 | 0:38:23 | |
or else our lemon curd will become lemon curdle. | 0:38:23 | 0:38:27 | |
But as it goes, the sugar will melt, the butter will melt, | 0:38:27 | 0:38:30 | |
the eggs will cook and I will end up, with a bit of luck, | 0:38:30 | 0:38:33 | |
with a bowl of lovely, glossy, lemony lemon curd. | 0:38:33 | 0:38:39 | |
I just stand here like a lemon stirring this | 0:38:39 | 0:38:42 | |
until magic happens in the pan. | 0:38:42 | 0:38:45 | |
Our muffin mix is ready to go in its cases. | 0:38:49 | 0:38:52 | |
I find an ice cream scoop works quite well for this. | 0:38:52 | 0:38:55 | |
With the back of a spoon, I'm going to make a little well | 0:39:01 | 0:39:06 | |
in the top of our muffins to take a teaspoon of this lovely lemon curd. | 0:39:06 | 0:39:11 | |
The lemon curd is going to sit on the top with a sugary crust, | 0:39:11 | 0:39:15 | |
so that when you bite into the muffin you get this lemon burst that | 0:39:15 | 0:39:19 | |
tickles your tonsils. | 0:39:19 | 0:39:21 | |
Wait until the muffins are cold, | 0:39:21 | 0:39:23 | |
because you may get a mouthful of lemon napalm. | 0:39:23 | 0:39:26 | |
For the lemon curd, it is a waiting game. | 0:39:27 | 0:39:32 | |
Stir it for five minutes until the butter has melted | 0:39:32 | 0:39:35 | |
and it has started to thicken. | 0:39:35 | 0:39:37 | |
-How is the curd going, mate? -As you can see, it is beginning to thicken. | 0:39:37 | 0:39:43 | |
At this point, use a whisk to stir the curd continuously | 0:39:43 | 0:39:47 | |
for about 12 minutes until it's the consistency of custard. | 0:39:47 | 0:39:51 | |
It is going. Do you want a grab a spoon, see what this is like when it cools? I think I might be there. | 0:39:51 | 0:39:57 | |
You can tell it is ready when it clings to a cold spoon like this. | 0:39:57 | 0:40:02 | |
Upside down, that is what you want from your lemon curd. | 0:40:02 | 0:40:04 | |
Off we go, Mr King. | 0:40:04 | 0:40:06 | |
So, just on the top, one little teaspoon of lemon curd, like that. | 0:40:08 | 0:40:14 | |
This is perfect. | 0:40:16 | 0:40:17 | |
It is probably a bit zingier then the commercial lemon curd, | 0:40:17 | 0:40:21 | |
which for these muffins is perfect. | 0:40:21 | 0:40:23 | |
It is just when you want a sharp hit on the top. | 0:40:23 | 0:40:27 | |
Finally, sprinkle some granulated sugar on the top of the muffins | 0:40:27 | 0:40:30 | |
and they're ready for the oven. | 0:40:30 | 0:40:33 | |
190 degrees, depending on your oven, for 20 minutes. | 0:40:33 | 0:40:37 | |
That's Celsius, not Fahrenheit. I'd better bottle up my lemon curd. | 0:40:37 | 0:40:41 | |
That would be a shame not to. | 0:40:41 | 0:40:43 | |
A great present, isn't it, this? Again, we've sterilised these jars. | 0:40:48 | 0:40:52 | |
A little bit of greaseproof on the top, like that. | 0:40:54 | 0:40:57 | |
And that will do us for a good couple of cream teas. | 0:40:57 | 0:41:01 | |
-Oh, yes! Lovely. -Look at the sugar, it's caramelised on the top. | 0:41:07 | 0:41:13 | |
There is a temptation to put them straight into your mush, but don't. | 0:41:13 | 0:41:16 | |
Remember to let them cool down properly before you do. | 0:41:16 | 0:41:19 | |
Look at that. | 0:41:19 | 0:41:21 | |
-It's all sticky on the outside. -Look at that. | 0:41:21 | 0:41:25 | |
It's like mining for coal, that. Oh, they're springy. Lovely. | 0:41:25 | 0:41:30 | |
It's really good, isn't it? I want to taste the top. | 0:41:30 | 0:41:34 | |
-What is it like? -Super lemony. | 0:41:40 | 0:41:42 | |
The thing about preserving is by preserving something | 0:41:42 | 0:41:46 | |
you change the nature of it and, in a funny sort of way, | 0:41:46 | 0:41:48 | |
you always seem to give whatever you're preserving more flavour. | 0:41:48 | 0:41:53 | |
You can liven up something plain. | 0:41:53 | 0:41:54 | |
A simple muffin, lemon curd on the top - it's a bit special. | 0:41:54 | 0:41:59 | |
Our muffins are great to have with a brew. | 0:42:01 | 0:42:04 | |
The lemon tanginess adds a real zest to your afternoon tea. | 0:42:04 | 0:42:07 | |
Lemon curd is something you can use with cakes, tarts, toast or scones. | 0:42:11 | 0:42:17 | |
Marvellous! | 0:42:17 | 0:42:18 | |
Preserving has been a great British tradition for centuries. | 0:42:22 | 0:42:27 | |
In the past, it provided a livelihood for thousands of people | 0:42:27 | 0:42:31 | |
and has given us some of our most distinctive foods. | 0:42:31 | 0:42:34 | |
And the quest to make our food last longer has led to some huge advances in science. | 0:42:36 | 0:42:42 | |
But in this age when we can get fresh produce all year round | 0:42:43 | 0:42:47 | |
we no longer preserve out of necessity... | 0:42:47 | 0:42:49 | |
We do it for the sheer love of the flavours and textures it brings | 0:42:49 | 0:42:54 | |
to our dinner plate and long may it continue, because it is fabulous! | 0:42:54 | 0:42:59 | |
And to find out how to cook the recipes in today show, | 0:43:01 | 0:43:04 | |
visit - | 0:43:04 | 0:43:08 | |
to discover some amazing facts about the history of food. | 0:43:08 | 0:43:12 | |
And to find out how to cook up tonight's recipes. | 0:43:12 | 0:43:15 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:43:19 | 0:43:23 | |
E-mail [email protected] | 0:43:23 | 0:43:26 |