Game Hairy Bikers' Best of British


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You know, we believe that Britain has the best food in the world.

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Not only can we boast fantastic ingredients.

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-Outstanding food producers.

-Oh, look at that.

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And innovative chefs.

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But we also have an amazing food history.

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-Oh, brilliant.

-Oh, wow!

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Don't eat them like that. You'll break your teeth.

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Now during this series,

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we are going to be taking you on a journey into our culinary past.

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Everything's ready, let's get cracking.

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-We'll explore its revealing stories.

-BOTH: Wow!

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And meet the heroes that keep our food heritage alive.

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It's a miracle what comes out of the oven.

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And of course,

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be cooking up a load of dishes that reveal our foodie evolution.

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Look at that. That's a proper British treat.

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We have a taste of history.

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Quite simply - the Best Of British.

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Today's show is a celebration of some of

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this country's most amazing food.

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Its fans say it's healthy, sustainable,

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environmentally friendly, affordable and totally tasty.

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We're talking about game, of course.

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From feather to fur, game is the term used for the collection

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of wild animals and birds that are hunted and eaten.

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And for centuries, we've been stalking,

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gathering and dining on the delights of this edible heritage.

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Britain has a long tradition of hunting both for sport and for food.

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From the great hunting feasts of William the Conqueror to the glorious 12th.

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With venison, pheasant and grouse taking pride of place on the menus of some of our finest restaurants.

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But it's not just the preserve of the toffs.

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Ordinary folk have relied on game over the centuries

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and they've devised ingenious ways

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of getting their hands on everything

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from wildfowl to rabbits.

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And you know what, you'd be amazed at what you can do with a ferret.

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He's not wrong.

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He might look cute and cuddly, but this domesticated type of polecat is

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a fearsome hunter, perfectly adapted for putting down rabbit holes.

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And bringing home some game for your tea.

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Their eyesight isn't very good,

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but their sense of smell is excellent and they're very bendy.

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If you are fairly fit you could probably touch your toes.

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If you're double jointed, you could put your chin on your bottom.

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But what you could never do is bend sideways like that

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or like that because he's just one big universal joint.

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Whilst we associate ferrets with working class culture.

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You silly little devil, ain't ya?

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And wriggling around people's trousers,

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ferreting was originally an entirely aristocratic pursuit.

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In the 13th century, if you wanted to own a ferret,

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by law you had to have an income of 40 shillings,

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which meant you were seriously minted.

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By Queen Elizabeth's reign, ferrets were still associated with money and status.

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But gradually they became available to everyone.

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By the 19th century, anyone could go onto common land with a ferret

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and catch a rabbit for your tea.

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Nowadays you don't need a flexible friend if you want to eat rabbit.

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And you certainly don't need a fancy chef to cook it for you.

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In our Best Of British kitchen,

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we'll show you how to rustle up a simple dish

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of rabbit with prunes, cream and brandy.

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An absolute game gem that combines the best of British ingredients

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with a bit of French je ne sais quoi.

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Now all these posh folks, they've been out for centuries

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chasing stags, shooting grouse.

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But it hasn't always been the preserve of the rich.

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Poor folk like a good old blast too. For us it was bunnies and rabbits.

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Just get a couple of rabbits for' pot, mother.

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Rabbit's been around for ages. We've shot, eaten and loved them.

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We are cooking a lovely dish with rabbits. A bit French.

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It's rabbits with prunes flamed in Cognac.

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But you know, it turns the humble rabbit into a prince. It's posh.

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It's tasty, it's lovely.

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I'll start with the prunes and the brandy.

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I'll start with browning off the rabbit.

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Look at this, a couple of rabbits there.

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You can get a rabbit for about three pounds.

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So that's only six pounds worth there.

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-Six pounds of meat?

-Lovely!

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And I tell you what, this dish goes like a rabbit. It's fantastic.

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It's quick, it's simple, it's tasty and it's...oh!

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These are non-soak prunes.

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Put them in a pan with six tablespoons of brandy.

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Now you're talking! Myers, now you're talking.

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Brandy.

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One.

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Two, three.

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Four. Five. Six.

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And then we leave the prunes to macerate in that lovely brandy.

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Now I've put some butter and I'm going to put some oil into

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the pan, bring it to temperature, season the rabbit on both sides.

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Thank you. Season the rabbit on both sides and brown it off.

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Season both sides. Just salt into it.

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Now carefully flambe the prunes.

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Smells like flesh to me!

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# We'll get the fire brigade. Get the fire brigade.

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# I think the kitchen is starting to really burn... # Woo.

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Wa-hey. Woo.

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I see a sign.

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-I could get used to this.

-You're a worry, you are.

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Right, enough of that.

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Put the fire out.

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HE LAUGHS

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-I've got no hair left on my arms!

-Dave?

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-Dave.

-Eh?

-You haven't got any eyebrows either.

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No, no, you really haven't.

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What's happened to my hair line?

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That's it. You see, wasn't like that before he started this show.

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He had a full head of hair.

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Just leave those to soak till the end of the dish.

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Start chopping your bacon

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and shallots in anticipation for pan action later on down the line.

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Now just start to fry these off in batches.

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Don't try and overcrowd the pan

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because if you try and overcrowd the pan they're not going to fry.

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Two banana shallots.

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That's what we're after.

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See that, that's the saddle, that bit there.

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Oh, that's rabbit fillet steak, that is. Beautiful.

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And we're just going to put a little bit of colour on.

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This is a humble dish made good, this.

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You know, in the late 14th century rabbits were an expensive luxury.

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A lot of the recipes then advocated roasting them

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with the head still on.

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I suppose it's so you'd see it's a rabbit and not your local moggy.

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A little bit more oil.

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Have you ever read Watership Down?

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-Yes.

-It's sad, wasn't it?

-Yeah, it was.

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-And rabbits have always featured in literature, haven't they?

-Always.

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-Watership Down, you know, Bugs Bunny.

-Bugs Bunny.

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-Thumper in Bambi.

-Yeah.

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Eee, look at it now, it could almost be chicken.

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Indeed you can do this dish with chicken thighs.

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Allow two chicken thighs per person.

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Next, fry the chopped streaky bacon.

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Now what we want to do with this bacon is,

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we just want it to go nice and crisp.

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Not very crisp but we want the fat to go quite crispy.

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Right, so, can you see what we've got there? They're not crispy bits.

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-That's perfect, isn't it? They're just golden.

-Yes, exactly. That.

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The fried bacon joins the rabbit in the casserole.

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To the pan add the shallots and just...sweat until translucent.

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Can you see? I've cut them longways. Just for that little touch of class.

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To the onions add two tablespoons of flour.

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One. Two.

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Time to add the liquid. Now you could use white wine.

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-But to kind of make it a bit more British we are using cider.

-We are.

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And this is 300 ml of cider.

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Got some stock here. Pour half of it in at this point.

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-This is good stock. It looks like jelly.

-What a wonderful smell.

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To that we add one tablespoon of Dijon mustard.

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Like that. And two teaspoons of wholegrain mustard.

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Beautiful.

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And a little bouquet garni. A little bunch of thyme tied together.

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Obviously we chuck this out before serving.

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-Oh.

-And...a bayleaf.

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-How lovely.

-Now, I know it's a bit of a strange convention.

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When you put the flour on top of what, in essence,

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is sauteed onions and it goes, like, really thick.

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Don't freak out because all that's doing is coating the onions

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in flour, cooking that flour off a little bit

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and then as soon as you add liquid, look what's happening.

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It's just thickening it.

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And there's no lumps or any problem, it's just lovely.

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We'll add some more liquid so don't worry,

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-it won't be that thick when it's done.

-Right.

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Beautiful.

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Now top this up with the remaining stock.

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I'm going to cover this with a cartouche.

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A cartouche is a sheet of greaseproof paper

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that's cut to fit the dish.

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What it'll do is it will stop it cooking dry too quickly.

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Put that on the top.

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Lid on. And place that in a preheated oven, 160 degrees Celsius

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for about one and a half, two hours.

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-Actually if you leave it in for two hours, it's not going to hurt, really.

-No.

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Rabbit.

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# Rabbit, rabbit, rabbit, rabbit, rabbit, rabbit... #

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At one time, there wasn't a market or a butchers shop in Britain

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that wouldn't be over-flowing with fresh, fantastic produce during the game season.

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And in post-war Britain, rabbit, a cheap and readily available meat,

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was rarely off the menu.

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But when a deadly virus called myxomatosis

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arrived in Britain in 1953, over 95% of the bunny population

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was wiped out, and rabbit quickly fell off the weekly menu.

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But now, from Michelin restaurants to small country cottages,

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there's a bit of a rabbit revival going on.

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And if you're happy to give it a try, rabbit is a rewarding

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and flavoursome change from the ordinary.

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-I think by now that's a very "hot cross bunny"! Ha-hey!

-Oh, dear me, man!

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Let's remove the cartouche.

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-Ooh!

-Oh, nice.

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These are the prunes oozing in brandy.

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I'll just light the gas under this.

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We'll heat those prunes through, because now they're stone cold,

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and add the cream.

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Oh, man.

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And just give that a little stir.

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And really as soon as that's come up to temperature, we can serve.

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Now...check for seasoning.

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Look what I've got. I've got some cabbage and dauphinoise potatoes.

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Ooh, saddle. Primo.

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There we go, that's the one.

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-And some prunes, yeah?

-Oh, for sure.

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So near, yet so far.

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Lovely, creamy, dauphinoise.

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Cabbage.

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The rabbit eats the cabbage

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and they both end up on the same plate together.

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Beautiful.

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So there you have it.

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A delicious, simple dish that's definitely worth rabbiting on about.

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Whilst rabbit was for the masses

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and readily available to anyone who wanted it,

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there's one type of game that has long been the preserve of the rich.

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# Hello, dear... #

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The monarch of the meat is venison.

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In Norman times, deer parks provided the lord of the manor

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with a ready supply of fresh venison,

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and by the early 14th century there were 3,200 deer parks in England.

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Peasants, on the other hand, got a pretty bad deal.

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The Elizabethans would punish poachers

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by castrating, blinding or even hanging them.

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Ooh, that's a bit harsh.

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By the 18th century,

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the highly prized deer parks were heavily landscaped,

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and venison was still very much the flavour of the day.

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Well, if you had more than a few groats to your title, obviously.

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-One man.

-..and his dog.

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..who knows all about cooking venison the 18th century British way

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is our resident food historian, Ivan Day.

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Ivan's home in the Lake District is a living museum where he brings

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the sights, smells, and flavours of the past to life,

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using historical recipes and a variety of odd-looking gadgets.

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A lot of my friends call me the Clockwork Cook

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because I cook with a range of these extraordinary early

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historical mechanisms and it is a very sophisticated way of cooking.

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It's my preferred way of roasting, to use one of my machines.

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Today he's going to cook up an 18th century posh venison kebab,

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roasted in front of the fire and served with a medieval sauce.

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The first thing I've got to do is to cut this venison into little medallions.

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They'll be a little bit too thick, really, and small

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so I'm going to hack them out with the back of a knife

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which is a technique which was called scotching.

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In fact, what I'll get are things called collops

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which are thin rashers, if you like, of venison.

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Venison was once exclusively for the British aristocracy.

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In fact, Henry VIII wooed Anne Boleyn with gifts of it.

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I mean, I reckon she would have preferred diamonds, like, but neh mind.

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Next he sows chunky bacon fat into the collops,

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with a little help from a nifty set of 18th century tools.

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I'm very lucky to actually own this remarkable survival

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from the period of the recipe, from the early 18th century.

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Which is a set of larding pins. Every cook had one of these.

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They were as important to him as his knife.

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You don't get them in Morecombe High Street!

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And basically you've got these little needles

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with these flexible ends that you can shove a piece of bacon into

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and you can literally sow it into the meat to tenderise it

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so that there's lots of fat in what is actually a very lean meat

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so that will lubricate it and cook it to perfection.

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23 collops to go. This could take some time, you know.

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You can always fast forward to the next part in telly, though.

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It's time to move on.

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18th century meat cookery used a bucketload of different herbs

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for extra flavour and this dish calls for a mixture

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of thyme, rosemary, parsley, chervil and marjoram.

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Then mix them in with a little bit of very finely chopped beef suet.

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And this is actually also like the lardons.

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It will lubricate each slice of venison

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and there's also a little bit of egg yolk in there

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to stick all of these sheets together.

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What made this Georgian venison delight seriously indulgent was the use of spices.

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Exotic cloves, long peppercorns and nutmeg

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all the way from the Spice Islands of Indonesia.

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A truly international meal, created here in Britain.

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What we're going to do is to stir it altogether and make

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a kind of herb butter from it but without the butter.

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A herb suet, if you like.

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I'm going to spread this in-between my little collops of venison

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and stack them up in a tower.

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What I will create in fact is really a very ancient,

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very early British doner kebab but much posher than a doner kebab.

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I can't wait to see what this turns out like. Let's get a move on, eh?

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Right, it's getting a little bit unstable

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but that's no problem cos I'm going to put the skewer through in a moment

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which will hold the whole thing together.

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-'Careful, Ivan!'

-Actually I'm going to have to do it like that.

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After being skewered and tied, the spit is finally run through it.

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For centuries keeping the spit turning was a thankless task

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which was done by hand or even by dogs powering a wheel.

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But during the 16th century, a new mechanism appeared

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on the culinary market which was really the world's first robot.

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It was called a jack in this country

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and it enabled you to rotate your meat.

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But also it enabled you to cook the meat to perfection

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if you understood the technology.

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Ivan's clockwork spit goes back to the 1720s,

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exactly the same era as the recipe.

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Now here's a clever bit. Ivan bastes the venison with red wine. This drips off

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with the meat gravy and is used to make the sauce.

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This sauce is a very ancient sauce for serving with game

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and venison and goes right back to the medieval period

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in terms of almost like a hunting sauce.

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And it was called a galantine.

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Ivan uses something called a chafing dish,

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that holds red hot coals from the fire,

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on which to prepare the sauce.

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He mixes red wine, vinegar, sugar and cinnamon together.

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It is, in effect, a sweet, sour sauce.

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But the most important ingredient that'll go in this,

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all the juices that are now dripping off the venison

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so the actual gravy from the venison is going to be the real background flavour in this.

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The medieval way of thickening a gravy like this was to use breadcrumbs.

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And do you know, I think I might try that next time I have a roast.

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BELL RINGS

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Right, dinner is served.

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Now that's one kebab you WON'T see on a Friday night.

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And then what we do, we separate it again.

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We take it, individual collop by individual collop

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and arrange it on a nice plate and then pour the sauce over it.

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Dish done.

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That looks delicious.

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With experts like Ivan around,

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we can keep looking to history for foodie inspiration.

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A thing that never changes is good-tasting food.

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So a remarkable 1723 doner kebab. Venison in collops.

0:21:300:21:38

-ARCHIVE:

-This machine can pluck pheasants in a fraction of the time that it takes by hand.

0:21:430:21:48

By the Sixties you could buy your game already plucked, preserved and tinned, to eat any time of year.

0:21:480:21:54

And they're topped up with jelly before being sent away to the processing oven.

0:21:540:21:59

MUSIC: "Swing" by Zero 7

0:21:590:22:01

But for a truly fresh taste of our heritage,

0:22:010:22:03

you need to wait until the autumn to bag yourself something wild and wonderful.

0:22:030:22:08

We're heading to the Highlands of Scotland,

0:22:080:22:11

about an hour or so away outside Inverness

0:22:110:22:14

to join a grouse shooting party on the Balavil estate.

0:22:140:22:17

DOG BARKS INDOORS

0:22:180:22:19

Hello gentleman. Very nice to see you, Dave, Simon.

0:22:190:22:22

-Lovely to see you.

-Hi, how are you? Good to see you.

-Very well, come on in.

-Thank you.

0:22:220:22:28

Our totally game Best of British food hero

0:22:290:22:32

is Allan Macpherson-Fletcher who is the latest in a long line of Macphersons

0:22:320:22:37

to oversee the 7,500 acre Balavil estate.

0:22:370:22:41

They've been hunting game on this estate for over 200 hundred years

0:22:450:22:48

and they've got the trophies to prove it.

0:22:480:22:50

Grouse shooting became a national obsession

0:22:560:22:58

in the second half of the 19th century, after Queen Victoria bought Balmoral.

0:22:580:23:05

In its hey-day, shooting parties were reserved for royalty

0:23:050:23:08

and the over-privileged, and they really went to town.

0:23:080:23:11

In 1913, George V led a party that killed 3,937 birds in one day.

0:23:120:23:20

-DOG BARKS

-Nowadays, the number of birds shot is closely monitored

0:23:200:23:23

by the gamekeeper, who ensures that enough are left to breed for the following year.

0:23:230:23:30

And it's not just sport... It's a business.

0:23:300:23:33

Today's guests have come all the way from Austria to shoot.

0:23:370:23:42

And have paid £500 a day each for the privilege.

0:23:420:23:45

Hands up who's shooting.

0:23:510:23:53

One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight.

0:23:530:23:57

Gents, you've all been here before or you've shot grouse before.

0:23:570:24:00

Nonetheless, can I still give you a quick chat about the safety?

0:24:000:24:04

When the line of beaters is coming in towards you

0:24:040:24:06

they will blow a horn about 200 metres out.

0:24:060:24:10

However, it's your responsibility not to shoot them. Also...

0:24:100:24:13

-'POSH VOICE:

-It really would be bad form to shoot the beater,

0:24:130:24:16

-'wouldn't it?'

-'Aye, you're right there.'

0:24:160:24:19

What they're after is this "wee cow'rin, timorous beastie", the famous Highland grouse.

0:24:190:24:26

Grouse has been on the menu for centuries.

0:24:260:24:29

Back in medieval times, it was just one of the ingredients in a game pie

0:24:290:24:33

that included heron, crane, swan and stork.

0:24:330:24:36

Game pie was often the spectacular centrepiece of a Tudor feast.

0:24:380:24:43

And in 1861, Mrs Beeton dedicated an entire chapter to grouse and game

0:24:480:24:53

in her domestic household management bible.

0:24:530:24:56

Since the Game Act of 1831 made it illegal to shoot out of season,

0:25:060:25:10

grouse can only be hunted between the 12th August, commonly called the Glorious Twelfth,

0:25:100:25:15

and December 10th.

0:25:150:25:17

So, Alan, what's happening now?

0:25:260:25:31

-Right. The guns are all aboard.

-Yes.

0:25:310:25:35

One or two of them are walking into position.

0:25:350:25:38

The ones on the top of the hill are going by Argocat.

0:25:380:25:41

We've a line of ten butts running down the shoulder of the hill.

0:25:410:25:45

-And a butt is?

-It's a protection.

0:25:450:25:48

A stone-built little protection. so that it gives you camouflage.

0:25:480:25:53

The birds don't see you standing up.

0:25:530:25:55

They've got fantastic eyesight, grouse.

0:25:550:25:57

If you're standing up, bobbing around, they would swerve off and avoid you.

0:25:570:26:01

-And all the grouse, all the game is eaten?

-All eaten.

0:26:010:26:04

We tend to hang on naturally to all the best and youngest grouse for ourselves.

0:26:040:26:10

The rest go to a game dealer and get shipped to London,

0:26:100:26:13

no doubt to the restaurants down there.

0:26:130:26:16

'On the 12th of August every year,

0:26:190:26:21

'restaurateurs race to get grouse on the menu,

0:26:210:26:24

'driving hundreds of miles in a day for the first batches of this small, meaty bird.'

0:26:240:26:29

'The prices can be sky high, but if you're prepared to wait a few days,

0:26:320:26:36

'the cost can often drop by half.'

0:26:360:26:39

There is a school of thought that doesn't agree with hunting and field sports.

0:26:390:26:42

What's your answer to that?

0:26:420:26:45

Well, we all respect each other. I am very happy to defend what we do here.

0:26:450:26:52

Um, we have to crop these birds and the deer on the hill for their own good.

0:26:520:26:59

For a start, if we didn't control them,

0:26:590:27:03

the deer would get too old and die a slow, lingering death,

0:27:030:27:08

because there's not enough food out here.

0:27:080:27:10

The grouse, if we didn't have Arthur on the hill,

0:27:100:27:13

maintaining the population through vermin control,

0:27:130:27:16

the hawks would take them all, there would be nothing left.

0:27:160:27:19

-And when there's no grouse left, the hawks disappear.

-Yes.

0:27:190:27:22

So it's one of those things that I defend the shooting side.

0:27:220:27:26

And it's not just we are out here enjoying the bloodthirsty sport of killing birds,

0:27:260:27:31

there's a wider picture to all of that.

0:27:310:27:33

'All the birds shot today will be collected,

0:27:330:27:37

'hung and plucked, ready for the pot.'

0:27:370:27:40

'So with the first brace of game in the bag,

0:27:490:27:51

'we're heading back to the house to get cooking.'

0:27:510:27:54

-Come on in. Now then, Simon, Paul.

-Very nice to meet you.

-Good to see you.

0:27:570:28:02

If anybody can show us how to prepare these grouse, it's going to be you.

0:28:020:28:06

You've got through a few in your time.

0:28:060:28:07

-I've done a few in my time in the last ten years on this estate.

-What's interesting,

0:28:070:28:12

and you must find this, the reverence in which the bird is held

0:28:120:28:16

-by everybody that's shot it and the household and what you do with it.

-Yes.

0:28:160:28:19

-It's fabulous.

-The whole cycle is there, from the estate to the plate.

0:28:190:28:25

And that's what I like. In some ways, I find that more honourable

0:28:250:28:29

-than going to a supermarket and buying your meat in a plastic bag.

-Hear, hear.

0:28:290:28:33

Croutons are toasted, spread with grass pate and used as a base.

0:28:350:28:40

-Some nice streaky bacon.

-Good honest cooking.

-It is.

-I love it.

0:28:420:28:45

What we do this for is to keep the breast nice and moist.

0:28:450:28:51

Plus the fact that everybody likes it.

0:28:510:28:53

-THEY LAUGH

-It's the pickings, isn't it?

-Yes.

0:28:530:28:56

-In the Aga. 20 to 25 minutes.

-That's it.

0:28:580:29:02

-Simple as that.

-Is that it? Excellent.

0:29:020:29:05

'The household has a long history of shooting parties

0:29:080:29:12

'and Alan is lucky enough to have the records dating back to 1780.'

0:29:120:29:17

It's interesting in that it's a well-documented shooting estate.

0:29:170:29:21

Most of the estates here started maybe in Victorian times in keeping records,

0:29:210:29:25

but we were fortunate in that we had a extraordinary gentlemen

0:29:250:29:29

who rented this estate back in 1780.

0:29:290:29:33

And kept a marvellous diary of his exploits here.

0:29:330:29:38

He completely bankrupted himself, but had fun while it lasted.

0:29:380:29:43

He was keen on his food. He was keen on his food. His menus out there.

0:29:430:29:49

He invited the whole of society out there.

0:29:490:29:53

Here met with the Laird and Captain MacPherson.

0:29:530:29:56

Here is an example of his menus. "A hodge podge. Remove.

0:29:560:30:00

"A roast pike of 7lbs."

0:30:000:30:02

"Sauces, greens, reindeer tongues, potatoes, chickens."

0:30:020:30:06

Then you get into the second course. THEY LAUGH

0:30:060:30:09

"Loin of mutton, black game and partridge,

0:30:090:30:11

"current jelly, capsicum, elder, garlic, vinegars, powerade and char."

0:30:110:30:17

"A carving. Biscuits, stilton cheese, Cheshire, butter, goat's milk." Absolutely wonderful.

0:30:170:30:22

-It's a good old feast.

-He had fun.

-This was the 1790s?

-1790, yeah.

0:30:220:30:27

'A superb sounding menu,

0:30:270:30:29

'but we've got something simpler to try back in the kitchen.'

0:30:290:30:33

All right, boys? There you go.

0:30:330:30:36

-What a treat. Thank you very much. Thank you.

-One for you, Dave, one for you, Si.

0:30:360:30:41

-And a knife and fork, unless you wish to use your fingers.

-No, this is a rare treat, thank you.

0:30:410:30:46

And if you game chips.

0:30:460:30:47

-It's even that more exciting, because we've been up there where they live.

-Ah.

0:30:470:30:53

Ah, that is superb.

0:30:530:30:55

It's just cooked perfectly through.

0:30:570:31:00

-Look at that moist, beautiful meat.

-Mm-hm.

0:31:000:31:03

This is the bit I've been dying to... My crouton.

0:31:040:31:07

Here's a man who likes to get it all on the fork at the one time.

0:31:070:31:11

-Oh, yeah. That's what it's on the plate for.

-That full sensation.

0:31:110:31:14

He's worried it might not get it all in his mouth.

0:31:140:31:18

That is immense. Beautiful. Absolutely immense. Oh.

0:31:180:31:22

What you're eating there, that breast muscle, you saw how fast those birds were flying today.

0:31:220:31:27

And these are completely wild birds.

0:31:270:31:30

There is no artificial feeding on these.

0:31:300:31:32

All the food they're getting is completely natural.

0:31:320:31:35

Thank you so, so much. Look at that.

0:31:350:31:38

-Now there's the best of British on a fork. Look at that.

-Very much so.

0:31:380:31:43

I mean, I think it's a real treat to be able to have food literally from the field to the plate

0:31:430:31:50

in such a wonderful, fresh, vibrant way.

0:31:500:31:54

-It's the Highlands!

-Wow.

-Crikey.

-It's been a great pleasure having you with us.

0:31:540:31:58

'Nowadays, you don't have to be a member of the Royal family with six wives to enjoy some venison -

0:32:040:32:11

'the most majestic of meats.'

0:32:110:32:13

We're diving back into the Best of British kitchen to rustle up a feast fit for a king.

0:32:130:32:20

Well, on a 21st-century budget.

0:32:200:32:22

Isn't that beautiful? Look at the colour of that meat. It's lean, it's flavoursome,

0:32:220:32:28

but, you've got to be careful how you cook it.

0:32:280:32:31

-That's because it's lean. Anyway, game on!

-Oh! What?!

0:32:310:32:37

We're going to make a venison dish,

0:32:370:32:39

-which is truly for Princes, Kings, paupers alike.

-It is, it is.

-Venison cobbler.

0:32:390:32:45

-Oh, you see? See that mix, Royal meat, cobbler, common as muck.

-Oh-ho.

0:32:450:32:51

What is a venison cobbler?

0:32:510:32:53

-It's a stew that's kind of got savoury scones on the top.

-Yes.

0:32:530:32:57

And the scones come together like cobbles,

0:32:570:32:59

-but it's rather like a dumpling gets the nice bits, the gravy?

-Yes.

0:32:590:33:03

-Cobbler's the same, it soaks it up from underneath.

-Right.

0:33:030:33:06

First off, we've got to make a venison casserole, but a blooming good one.

0:33:060:33:11

-This dish you could substitute for shoulder of lamb, stewing steak.

-You could.

0:33:110:33:15

Either would work perfectly well,

0:33:150:33:17

-but then it wouldn't be a venison cobbler.

-No, it would be something else then.

0:33:170:33:21

Right. Tell you what I need, I need two onions and a carrot.

0:33:210:33:26

I need a pan, some oil and celery.

0:33:260:33:30

-Now we're back to that old chestnut.

-Yes.

0:33:300:33:34

It's the basis of all things lovely, so all I'm going to do is prepare these onions

0:33:340:33:39

in a way that we've prepared many thousands of onions before us.

0:33:390:33:42

We're going to take the skin off and slice them. All right?

0:33:420:33:46

Sunflower oil goes in a pan.

0:33:460:33:48

Two sticks of celery.

0:33:480:33:50

Put that in to fry.

0:34:020:34:04

There's nothing more noble than when you see deer, is there?

0:34:050:34:08

It's just such a beautiful animal and there's lots of different types.

0:34:080:34:12

There's fellow deer, which is good for meat, and roe deer, which is good for meat.

0:34:120:34:16

There's red deer, which is good for meat.

0:34:160:34:19

-But my favourite is the tasty little one, the muntjac.

-Oh, yes, the little fella.

0:34:190:34:24

Chuck your carrots.

0:34:250:34:27

Now we just cook this gently for ten minutes until the onions soften.

0:34:290:34:34

To that I add two tablespoons of flour

0:34:340:34:37

and one teaspoonful of English mustard.

0:34:370:34:40

And the flour sticks to the onions

0:34:410:34:44

-and that's going to be our thickening agent.

-Next thing,

0:34:440:34:48

-is 500 mills of beer.

-That's a pint in old money near enough.

0:34:480:34:53

-Ooh, that's thick.

-Isn't it? And then we ad 250mls of water.

0:34:590:35:04

We'll bring that back to the boil and then we'll add the venison.

0:35:040:35:09

Look at that.

0:35:100:35:12

Now, in goes this lovely bit of venison.

0:35:120:35:18

Look at how rich the colour of that meat is.

0:35:180:35:20

Look at that. Fabulous.

0:35:200:35:23

-That will be full of iron, that.

-Absolutely.

0:35:230:35:26

Give it a stir.

0:35:260:35:27

'Two tablespoons of chopped thyme are added to the pot.'

0:35:310:35:34

Pop that in.

0:35:350:35:37

And it's just the leaves, not the stalks,

0:35:370:35:40

because we're not going to strain this. What goes in will end up on your plate.

0:35:400:35:44

And then we add two bay leaves. Just crumpled.

0:35:440:35:47

And then some redcurrant jelly.

0:35:470:35:51

Once that jelly is dissolved, we put that into a casserole dish,

0:35:510:35:54

put that into an oven, preheated 160C for a fan oven,

0:35:540:35:58

and leave it there to moulder for about two hours, really.

0:35:580:36:02

-Hour and a half, two hours.

-Two and a half.

-Yes.

-Turn it down, leave it for three.

0:36:020:36:06

As long as it doesn't go dry, you'll be all right.

0:36:060:36:08

The longer you leave it, the tender it's going to be.

0:36:080:36:11

Phwoar! How lovely is that?

0:36:170:36:20

We hope that cooks down, or else there's no room for our cobbles.

0:36:220:36:25

Right.

0:36:280:36:29

Beautiful.

0:36:290:36:31

Now. What shall we do?

0:36:310:36:34

-Crochet?

-Oh, no!

0:36:340:36:37

Viewers, you just don't know how much he loves to knit to while away the hours.

0:36:380:36:44

-Beautiful.

-Lovely job. Pepper, salt.

0:36:570:37:02

And we use lemon juice.

0:37:020:37:04

About a good tablespoon of lemon juice.

0:37:040:37:08

-Don't be frightened with the old pepper.

-Nah.

-Get it in.

0:37:080:37:12

Perfect.

0:37:150:37:17

The lemon juice sharpens it up nicely. Have a taste?

0:37:170:37:20

-That sharpens it up, all right.

-Good.

0:37:230:37:25

Time to get cobbling.

0:37:250:37:26

Into a food processor put in self-raising flour.

0:37:280:37:31

Think a cobble is like making a scone.

0:37:310:37:35

It has to rise.

0:37:350:37:37

The baking powder in the flour will enable this to happen.

0:37:370:37:41

Some salt goes into this. About a teaspoon.

0:37:410:37:44

Some butter. And whizz this to crumbs.

0:37:480:37:51

I'm not going to make the dough in the processer,

0:37:510:37:54

because I feel, using the milk, it's quite a soft dough,

0:37:540:37:56

it would actually just, well, it would go to mush.

0:37:560:38:00

So just whizz this to a crumb-like form.

0:38:000:38:03

Pulse is better, because if you just let it go,

0:38:030:38:08

it could just go terribly...sort of smeary.

0:38:080:38:12

I mean, there's not much butter to the flour on this one.

0:38:120:38:16

It's not like when you're making pastry, where's a lot of butter.

0:38:160:38:20

Et, voila!

0:38:200:38:21

Put the flour and butter and salt mixture into Granny's bowl.

0:38:210:38:26

-Every house used to have one of these, didn't it?

-Yes, they did!

0:38:270:38:31

-They still have.

-Yeah.

0:38:310:38:33

Ours was used for everything, from hotpot

0:38:330:38:36

to baking bread,

0:38:360:38:38

to soaking my mother's feet.

0:38:380:38:41

Everything was done in that bowl. Right.

0:38:410:38:43

Add milk.

0:38:430:38:45

I'll just form the dough. This can be quite rustic.

0:38:460:38:51

Whoo-ooh-ooh! Oh, no.

0:38:510:38:53

-It's all measured.

-Oh! Ho-ho-ho.

0:38:530:38:57

That's it. Lovely.

0:38:580:39:00

Little Mr Sifter.

0:39:010:39:03

Oh-oh! Lucky!

0:39:050:39:07

-Sack the juggler.

-Oh-ho!

0:39:070:39:10

Wait a minute. Are you ready?

0:39:100:39:12

Not here in Downton Abbey!

0:39:170:39:19

-Whoo! Phew.

-Roll it out.

0:39:190:39:21

Now we're aiming for chunky cobblers, so just cutting them out.

0:39:210:39:25

A little cookie cutter, little, chunky cobblers.

0:39:250:39:30

You get about a dozen.

0:39:300:39:31

-There you are. Look at that!

-Lovely.

-Isn't it sweet?

0:39:310:39:35

'Then pack the cobblers tightly round the edge of the stew.'

0:39:370:39:42

And they're going to rise up.

0:39:510:39:54

-Like a scone.

-Shall I get another one in?

-Oh, aye.

0:39:540:39:58

-Just.

-Well done.

-Great.

0:40:000:40:03

Now then, what I want to do is just brush the top of each cobbler

0:40:030:40:07

with a little bit of egg.

0:40:070:40:09

And they're going to have a lovely finish on them when they rise.

0:40:120:40:16

If you're doing this for a dinner party,

0:40:160:40:18

you can cook the venison part the day before, let it go cold,

0:40:180:40:22

and just set the cobblers on top of the cold dish,

0:40:220:40:25

and then bake it off.

0:40:250:40:26

It really doesn't matter.

0:40:260:40:28

Now, this goes into the oven...

0:40:280:40:31

Topless.

0:40:320:40:33

160 degrees Celsius, for 30 minutes until your cobblers are brown

0:40:330:40:39

and your stew's reduced a bit.

0:40:390:40:41

-That's got to be ready, mate.

-Ready.

0:40:500:40:52

Oh!

0:40:520:40:54

Beautiful thing.

0:40:550:40:56

Good as!

0:40:560:40:58

That is a triumph.

0:41:000:41:01

It is, isn't it? Those little cobblers swallow up a treat.

0:41:010:41:05

Beautiful.

0:41:050:41:07

That's reduced nicely.

0:41:070:41:08

It has.

0:41:080:41:09

Which intensifies the flavour to give more satisfaction.

0:41:090:41:12

-Indeed.

-Indeed. Shall we have a dibble?

0:41:120:41:15

Should we?

0:41:150:41:16

-Let's have a dabble, dibble.

-Oh, yes!

0:41:160:41:18

This would be lovely served with mashed potatoes and runner beans.

0:41:230:41:26

British runners. It's the cobbler I've got to go for, isn't it?

0:41:260:41:31

Yeah. Listen to them, man.

0:41:310:41:33

So light. Look at that. One fork and in pieces.

0:41:330:41:37

Mmm!

0:41:440:41:45

Mmm-mm-mmm!

0:41:460:41:48

Good?

0:41:480:41:50

That venison... Look at that, it's just falling apart.

0:41:520:41:57

Oh, man!

0:41:570:41:59

Good, isn't it?

0:41:590:42:00

Mm-hmm!

0:42:000:42:01

We should eat more venison, you know.

0:42:010:42:03

It's very plentiful, it's very sustainable,

0:42:030:42:06

and it's as free range as you like. I mean,

0:42:060:42:09

you never get a battery deer, do you?

0:42:090:42:11

No.

0:42:110:42:13

Whoa!

0:42:130:42:14

And you know, when you get tired of dumplings,

0:42:140:42:18

make yourself a cobbler.

0:42:180:42:19

-Now that is wonderful - great British game.

-Aye.

0:42:210:42:26

# Now I'm always touched by your presence, dear

0:42:260:42:31

# I'm still in touch with your presence, dear

0:42:330:42:37

-# Dear, dear, dear, dear, dear, dear.

-#

0:42:370:42:42

Some of the finest food our countryside can provide

0:42:460:42:49

flies, runs and swims freely,

0:42:490:42:52

and has done for centuries.

0:42:520:42:53

So, whether you catch it or shoot it...

0:42:530:42:56

poach it or buy it,

0:42:560:42:59

..roast it or skewer it...

0:42:590:43:01

..why not follow in the footsteps of your forefathers,

0:43:010:43:03

and get yourself some game?

0:43:030:43:05

It's high in protein, low in fat,

0:43:050:43:07

with a variety of flavour to satisfy the most demanding of palettes.

0:43:070:43:11

And, if you want to find out more, visit:

0:43:130:43:19

..to discover some amazing facts about the history of food,

0:43:190:43:23

and, to find out how to cook the recipes in today's show.

0:43:230:43:27

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:310:43:34

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