Breakfast Hairy Bikers' Best of British


Breakfast

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Transcript


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You know, we believe that Britain has the best food in the world.

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Not only can we boast fantastic ingredients...

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Whoa, whoa! There we go. Look at them!

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Outstanding food producers...

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Oh, look at that!

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And innovative chefs...

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But we also have an amazing food history.

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-Oh, brilliant!

-Oh, wow!

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Don't eat them like that. You'll break your teeth.

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SHE LAUGHS

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Now, during this series, we're going to be taking you on a journey

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into our culinary past.

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Everything's ready, so let's get cracking.

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We'll explore its revealing stories...

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BOTH: Wow!

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And meet the heroes that keep our food heritage alive.

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It's a miracle what comes out of the oven!

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'And, of course, be cooking up a load of dishes

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'that reveal our foodie evolution.'

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Look at that! That's a proper British treat.

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We have...a taste...of history.

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-Quite simply...

-BOTH: The best of British!

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MOTORBIKE ENGINES REVVING

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Today's show is all about the mighty British breakfast.

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It's almost our national dish,

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and each corner of Britain has its own twists and variations

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when it comes to the meal that starts your day.

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You've got the full English, with rashers of bacon, eggs, sausage...

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Or the Ulster fry, with the soda bread and puddings.

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Or the Welsh speciality, laverbread, made up of cockles and seaweed.

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And in Scotland, we have porridge.

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We're going to be celebrating the meal that gets the nation out to work in the morning.

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'We'll be tucking into the best breakfasts you can get,

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'including a southern Indian favourite

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'being served up in Leicester.'

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We'll learn from a great British producer

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about what makes traditional bacon taste so good.

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And we'll be finding out how the egg cracked

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in the battle against cereal for our breakfast tables.

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Plus we'll be cooking up some classic weekend breakfast treats.

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For many of us, a good old fry-up is the pride of breakfast heritage.

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But eating well in the morning is a relatively recent phenomenon.

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Back in Georgian times,

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a large breakfast was something purely for the nobility,

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who ate artery-busting hams, cheeses, pies,

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and washed it all down with booze.

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It was the Victorians

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who made the cooked breakfast a British institution.

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As prosperity grew along with the Empire,

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cooked meats became affordable for all.

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They were the kings of cooked breakfasts,

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and it wasn't just about bacon and eggs.

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Smoked fish was highly rated,

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and even baked beans made an appearance on the menu.

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Great!

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The Empire also brought back recipes

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that changed the way we thought about breakfast.

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Our first recipe in the Best Of British kitchen

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is a tribute to that Victorian age - kedgeree.

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It's a spicy rice dish of smoked haddock and eggs,

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livened up with peas and parsley,

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guaranteed to kick-start your day.

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Two of our favourite things must be breakfast and curry.

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The two combined make kedgeree,

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and it must be one of the great British breakfasts of all time!

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And we love it cos it's spicy and it's gorgeous. That's brilliant.

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It is one of those odd Anglo-Indian dishes

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that came out of the British occupation of India.

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One of the tales is, it came in with the Scottish regiments

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going to India. The Scots love their smoked haddock.

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The Indians had a rice dish for breakfast called khichri,

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and that's where the name kedgeree comes from.

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And then the fish went into this.

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-Breakfast in the days of the Raj.

-Whatever! It's really good.

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-It certainly is.

-And this is smoked haddock.

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This is the undyed smoked haddock.

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I have to admit a sneaking liking for the bright-yellow stuff!

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As a kid, I used to think, "It looks so much more appetising

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than that dull white stuff. Mam, can we have the yellow one?"

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Never mind. This is much better for you, and super-tasty.

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Yes. Painted fish is just wrong.

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We're going to poach the haddock in a large frying pan

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filled with exactly 500 millilitres of water.

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And cook it for about eight minutes,

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until it's flaky and gorgeous.

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And we use that water for cooking the rice,

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so all that fishy, lovely, smoky flavour goes into the rice.

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And just to add a little bit more, we put a couple of bayleaves in.

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Lovely!

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'You know, kedgeree reminds me of being a kid.

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'My dad was in the Navy, and he couldn't get enough of it.'

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We used to eat kedgeree quite a lot in our house,

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cos it was, like, part of a naval tradition, kedgeree,

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and my dad used to love it, so there was always kedgeree on the go.

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'After the fish has been poached for eight minutes,

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'strain it in a colander, but don't forget to keep the water.'

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That's the beautiful liquor, isn't it, that?

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That's what we want to keep.

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-Oh!

-It does smell lovely, doesn't it?

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-It does. Fabulous.

-Use that as a holding pin.

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And then we simply put the rice in here with this liquid,

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and if we've done our sums right, this should be the precise amount

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necessary for cooking the given quantity of rice.

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'If you cook 200 grams of Basmati rice for around eight minutes

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'with the lid on, and leave it to stand for another two,

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'you should find that all the water's been absorbed,

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'and the rice is nice and fluffy.'

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'Right. Now we can get on with the rest of the ingredients.

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'First we need to chop an onion and cook it in 40 grams of butter

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'and a tablespoon of sunflower oil, until it's nice and soft.'

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And while Dave's doing that,

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I'm going to hard-boil four medium-sized eggs.

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Nice thing about kedgeree, it does hold quite well.

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You can put some foil on it, put it in a warm oven,

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and just leave it to moulder away until everybody's down for breakfast.

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And then it's just this lovely one-pot wonder.

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I like kedgeree with tea. Coffee's not really right with it.

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No. You can't have it with coffee. It's wrong.

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Cook those onions slowly, but we do want a little bit of colour on them.

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I'd flake the fish now if I were you.

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Well, if I were you, so would I!

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Now, this should be perfect. Yes, it is. Absolutely beautiful.

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And look, it just flakes away from the skin.

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Oh! Let's have a bit.

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Look at that! That is good fish.

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-Absolutely gorgeous.

-Lovely, isn't it?

-Yeah.

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'If there's one herb that works well with fish, it's parsley.

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'We're using roughly three tablespoons

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'of flat-leaf parsley, but curly-leaf works just as well.'

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-What's your favourite breakfast, Si?

-Anything with poached eggs, really.

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I must say, I really do like kedgeree,

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and I eat it at every available opportunity.

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So often when we've been in hotels,

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you order kedgeree, and it's rubbish.

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I don't know how you can make a mess of it.

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Kedgeree's a dish on its own. It's not a receptacle for leftover fish

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and stale bits and bobs. A lot of hotels see it like that,

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-and it's wrong.

-What's yours?

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I do love good scrambled eggs, but I've given up with that with hotels.

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I hate the breakfast ethos of the buffet.

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It should be shot. How can you keep scrambled eggs under a heat lamp?

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-You can't.

-It's a brick.

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Scrambled eggs should be soft and unctuous,

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and it's so wrong.

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And the bacon sits there, poaching in its own misery.

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-That's not breakfast.

-No, it's not.

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But there's such a good culture for breakfast in our country.

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You know, Kingy, the English breakfast

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is one of the great treasures. Even Somerset Maugham said,

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"To eat well in England, you need to eat breakfast three times a day,"

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and by God, he's right! We've got it right.

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Rant over, better get on with some cooking.

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Cut that rice off, and just leave that to steam in its own heat.

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We need to give the kedgeree that spicy kick.

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This is ordinary curry powder,

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just simple, plain, medium-strength curry powder.

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And we've got about... oh, a tablespoon of this, heaped.

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Those Indian and British flavours combined

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give kedgeree a truly comforting taste.

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That's the great thing about where we live, in the UK.

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You can eat your way around the world.

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'Peel the hardboiled eggs and slice them into quarters.'

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Today we don't eat dishes like this for brekkie very often,

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but in the Victorian age,

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people really went to town on their morning meal.

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As the Victorians used to say, "You breakfast like a king,

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you lunch like a queen. Tea like a prince,

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-and supper like a pauper."

-Perfect.

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Try telling ourselves that next time it's half past ten and we want a kebab.

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-THEY LAUGH

-Right! Let's build the kedgeree!

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The rice goes in. It's lovely and fluffy,

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and this rice is going to colour up beautifully

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when we stir through the curry powder.

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I'm trying to break the rice up as little as possible,

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because I don't want it to turn to porridge or become a risotto.

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So I'm kind of folding it in.

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Now, next is this beautiful, beautiful smoked haddock.

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-It's like mother-of-pearl, isn't it?

-It is absolutely beautiful.

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Beautiful fish. Now, try and maintain the flakes,

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and just fold them into that beautiful rice.

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-Oh, look at that, man.

-We can put the peas in now.

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Yeah, absolutely. Look at that, man. The colours!

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That'll wake you up, whatever!

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But whatever the breakfast, you've got to have eggs, haven't you?

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-It'd be wrong not to.

-So just fold in the eggs.

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If the yolks separate from the bits of white, don't worry.

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In my opinion, there's a fundamental flaw with eggs.

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There's too much white -

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for eating purposes. Maybe not for producing chickens.

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-There we are.

-Oh, lovely!

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Add the juice of half a lemon, lots of black pepper...

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When you've got eggs, you've got to have pepper.

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And then add the parsley.

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Fold that over again.

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-Shall we try for seasoning?

-Yes.

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There's loads of salt in the smoked haddock,

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so take care with the salt.

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Wow! I don't think that needs anything. Do you?

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-No.

-It's perfect.

-I think that's really good.

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I remember what my dad used to do. He'd dot the top with butter,

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and it was just epic!

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Right.

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A few little nubbins of butter.

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This is where it's like a biryani in a pan.

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Yeah. Love it.

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In the Navy, that'd sit in the officers' mess

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under a covered... under a covered platter,

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and the butter would melt. It'd go down into your kedgeree,

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and heaven on a plate would be served.

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For the final flourish of the dish,

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we'll add about three tablespoons of double cream.

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It'll just release all those lovely curry flavours off the rice.

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-Nice and gently.

-Nice and easy.

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You're beginning to look beautiful.

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Now, that, to me, is brekkers.

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That is, isn't it? Yeah.

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Curry, nourishment, best of British. Have you got a spoon?

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I've got... Yes! I think that, from henceforth,

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should be known as The Kedgeree Spoon.

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Oh...

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Oh, man!

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Just try and get a little eggy on the top.

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-Look at that!

-Oh!

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Oh, yes.

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Oh, lovely.

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That is brill! Dead spicy.

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-Oh...

-It ain't half hot, Mum.

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# Why do you whisper, green grass?

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# Why tell the trees what they say? #

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I love those winter mornings on a weekend,

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and when you get up, it's freezing but it's crisp,

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and the sky's light.

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And then this. Sat down - oh! - at your breakfast table.

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Oh, I love it!

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Good old-fashioned breakfasts were quite perky,

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quite spicy, and this again, it wakes your palate up.

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And it's got that effect of... You can't stop eating it, can you?

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-Help me!

-HE LAUGHS

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Great...British...breakfast.

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Aye!

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Since the early 1900s,

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the cooked breakfast had been the standard morning meal in Britain.

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But, in the post-war era, this was challenged by an innovation

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from across the Atlantic - breakfast cereal.

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Cornflakes were an invention of our American cousins

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that had come from the dietary reformist movement

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in the late 1800s, led by people like John Kellogg.

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The idea of healthy and unhealthy food,

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rather than taste, was right at the heart of this new type of breakfast.

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And it was aimed squarely at eliminating the fry-up

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from our tables.

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Because it didn't need cooking, cereal was a lot more convenient,

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and as more women joined the workplace,

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the American invader started to take over.

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But there was one part of the British breakfast

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that wasn't going to give up without a fight.

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Eggs had been heavily rationed during the Second World War,

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but in the 1950s, they started to make a comeback.

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-What sort of things do you cook?

-Well, eggs and bacon.

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-Do you ever cook meals?

-Yes. Bacon and eggs.

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Oh! Eggs and bacon and bacon and eggs.

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I've got just the thing for you.

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I'm going to show you how to make a super American breakfast dish

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-called eggs with top hats.

-Top hats?

-Yes, top hats.

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And they're jolly good for camping too, boys.

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It sounds terrific. Can I help you?

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In 1955, just a year after rationing ended,

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this cookery show enticed youngsters into the cool American way

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to have an egg for breakfast.

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This does look funny. Is it all right?

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But even creative ways to cut up your toast

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weren't enough to hold back the tidal wave of breakfast cereal.

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-It's going to be lovely, isn't it?

-I hope so!

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In the 1960s, a war began between egg producers

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and the cereal industry

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for the rumbling breakfast tummies of Britain.

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-So I shall just have to...

-BOTH: Go to work on an egg!

-Yes.

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HE LAUGHS

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While the egg men threw big names into the fight,

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cereal companies struck back with free toys...

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..giveaway guitars,

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and huge competitions that just got bigger and bigger,

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and slicker marketing won the day.

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Slowly but surely the cooked breakfast,

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which had defined the morning meal for so long,

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was replaced by cereal. As a much quicker choice for busy families,

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there was just no stopping it.

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What a goal!

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But despite the convenience of cereal,

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breakfast itself was becoming less popular.

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With less and less time on their hands,

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three quarters of all adults regularly missed breakfast

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by the millennium. And you know what? You're missing out.

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Ironically, you know, if you like cooked breakfasts,

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Britain has a lot to choose from.

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As well as our traditional favourites,

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there are now a whole range of delicious breakfasts

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that have arrived in Britain from overseas.

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We're off to Leicester to find a breakfast

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which has made it all the way from South India,

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and, quite frankly, we can't wait to get stuck in.

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Curry for breakfast! Oh, I love it!

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HE LAUGHS

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The city is home to just over 300,000 people.

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And a large proportion of them are of Indian descent.

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Jaimon Thomas runs the Kayal restaurant.

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He was raised in Kerala, and is going to show us

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a typical southern Indian breakfast.

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But he isn't just crazy about curry.

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He's a biker, too!

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-Hello!

-Hi, there!

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-Very nice to meet you!

-Hi.

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I thought I was coming to a restaurant, not a garage.

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That's our Royal Enfield, which we keep in the restaurant.

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-It's a 1953 Meteor.

-Oh, wow!

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-That's a 700cc version, isn't it?

-It is. It's a dual one.

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-Really, really rare. Beautiful!

-Do you love it?

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Quite unique, because Enfield started its life in the Midlands.

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Yes. It's a bit of history, isn't it?

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Britain has gifted India the Royal Enfield in the 1960s,

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and now we are here to serve you the curry.

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But it's not just the bikes we're here for.

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-It's your special breakfast.

-Of course.

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-We can go to the kitchen. The chefs are waiting for you.

-Fantastic!

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-Come in.

-Let's go.

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Leicester attracted skilled workers and entrepreneurs from India

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during the '50s and '60s,

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finding work with the local textile and hosiery industries.

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In the 1970s, the city also became home

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to Indian refugees that had been forced out of Uganda by Idi Amin.

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On the breakfast menu for many families

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with southern-Indian background are dosas, a kind of crepe,

0:20:020:20:06

and idlis, which is basically a steamed rice cake.

0:20:060:20:09

These are a couple of classic brekkie dishes

0:20:090:20:11

-made from lentils and rice.

-We've been to Kerala ourselves,

0:20:110:20:15

and southern-Indian food is something we absolutely adore.

0:20:150:20:19

First we're going to find out how to make idlis.

0:20:190:20:22

We had this every morning for breakfast for six weeks.

0:20:220:20:26

We've both come back with these and dosas, tried to make them,

0:20:260:20:29

tried over the years, and we've failed miserably.

0:20:290:20:32

-So this is a treat for us!

-It's quite simple.

0:20:320:20:35

-As far as we know, it's very simple.

-You say it's simple,

0:20:350:20:38

but it's driven us mad for years.

0:20:380:20:41

-We will make it simple for you today.

-Excellent!

0:20:410:20:45

'What makes it simple is one of these - a commercial grinder.'

0:20:460:20:50

This is a fantastic bit of kit. It's where we've been going wrong.

0:20:500:20:54

We haven't got one of these. Every home needs one.

0:20:540:20:57

Well, it does now. Look at this. It's brilliant!

0:20:570:20:59

'To make the dough, the lentils and rice are ground together

0:21:000:21:04

'with water and salt.'

0:21:040:21:06

And how do you know when it's done?

0:21:110:21:14

You can see the dough, nice and smooth.

0:21:140:21:16

'It's got to be ground for about 25 minutes.'

0:21:160:21:20

So before the age of electricity,

0:21:200:21:23

how would this be done?

0:21:230:21:26

It's the same thing. It's got a bigger stone than this,

0:21:260:21:29

but people used it with a string.

0:21:290:21:31

Still there are some tea shops in Kerala -

0:21:310:21:34

you can see them - they still use that.

0:21:340:21:36

'It's absolutely fascinating.

0:21:360:21:39

'Once the dough's been ground up,

0:21:390:21:42

'it needs to ferment for about 12 hours

0:21:420:21:45

'to become light and airy.'

0:21:450:21:47

It really is. There's lots of air bubbles in that, isn't there?

0:21:470:21:52

It's really creamy, as well.

0:21:520:21:54

The fermented dough goes into a special tray

0:21:540:21:56

that can be dropped now into a steamer.

0:21:560:21:58

My idlis, when I made them, it was just liquid!

0:21:580:22:01

It wasn't like that. That's like beaten egg white.

0:22:010:22:04

'I know what you're thinking. What if you don't have an idli tray?

0:22:040:22:07

'Well, in the old days, they were made by pouring the dough

0:22:070:22:12

'into a cloth stretched over a pan of hot water.'

0:22:120:22:15

Oh, I've made a mess here. I've got the sack before I've got my job!

0:22:150:22:20

THEY LAUGH

0:22:200:22:22

Do you know, what I'm looking forward to

0:22:220:22:25

is eating these straight out the steamer.

0:22:250:22:27

It's going to be like when you get bread out the oven and eat it fresh.

0:22:270:22:31

'Once the trays are all stacked, they go into the steamer

0:22:320:22:35

'for ten minutes.'

0:22:350:22:37

You're using a pressure cooker, but just using it as a steamer.

0:22:370:22:41

Yes. We are not pressure-cooking it.

0:22:410:22:43

With the idlis steaming, next up are the dosas.

0:22:450:22:49

Dosa is something which is the very best,

0:22:490:22:54

and essential for South Indians.

0:22:540:22:56

There is no breakfast without dosa, basically.

0:22:560:22:59

-Now we're going to make Masala dosa.

-Yes!

0:22:590:23:02

But before we do that, we have to make a filling.

0:23:020:23:05

Masala dosas have a spicy vegetable filling.

0:23:050:23:08

'To make the filling, the chef needs to start

0:23:100:23:12

'by frying mustard seed and lentils.'

0:23:120:23:14

Smelling beautiful, isn't it? It's toasty.

0:23:140:23:17

'Then he adds ginger, green chillies and the veg.'

0:23:200:23:24

-This is a smashing way to get a few of your five a day!

-Isn't it?

0:23:240:23:28

I can't think of a better one, mate, I tell you!

0:23:280:23:30

One of the main spices in the filling is turmeric,

0:23:300:23:33

which they grind from the root.

0:23:330:23:35

Turmeric, or haldi.

0:23:350:23:38

-Haldi!

-THEY LAUGH

0:23:380:23:39

The look of that and the smell, the look and smell of the kitchen,

0:23:390:23:44

it takes me back to my Keralan breakfasts.

0:23:440:23:47

'The final ingredient is some roughly mashed potato.'

0:23:470:23:50

It's like a posh bubble and squeak, isn't it?

0:23:500:23:53

That's the stuffing. That's the easy bit.

0:23:530:23:56

What about the dosas?

0:23:560:23:58

'Dosas have got the same ingredients as idlis,

0:24:000:24:03

'but with added fenugreek, and they're made on a hot plate

0:24:030:24:07

'rather like crepes.'

0:24:070:24:09

When I try to do this, I get to this point

0:24:120:24:15

and then that's it. It comes off like jelly,

0:24:150:24:19

and it's bits and pieces.

0:24:190:24:21

'Chef Hajik makes it look easy, but now it's our turn.'

0:24:240:24:27

Right! This is it. This is the moment of truth.

0:24:290:24:32

-That was brilliant. You first.

-Oh, man!

0:24:320:24:34

-Go on. Take to the hot plate, Kingy.

-Right!

0:24:340:24:37

He's doing good.

0:24:410:24:43

I've made my first dosa!

0:24:450:24:47

-Wow! That's really good!

-THEY APPLAUD

0:24:500:24:53

Yes! Thank you, Hajik. Thank you.

0:24:550:24:58

That was... It's fabulous. What a lovely thing to do!

0:24:580:25:01

'Kingy's a bit of a natural! No pressure, then.'

0:25:010:25:04

-I've got a lot to live up to now!

-Come on.

-Right.

0:25:040:25:08

It's not looking good, is it? Very brown.

0:25:120:25:15

Yes!

0:25:170:25:19

Oops! Oh, no!

0:25:220:25:24

-Nice one!

-Just hide it underneath.

0:25:250:25:29

It's not a cracker. My filling's bursting.

0:25:290:25:32

-I got a few holes. But it's all right.

-Mega!

0:25:320:25:35

So, Jaimon, tell us the truth. Do you have this every morning?

0:25:350:25:39

Every day, but I don't make it. My wife does it for me.

0:25:390:25:42

That's the secret.

0:25:420:25:44

You've got a restaurant and a team of chefs.

0:25:440:25:46

And also we do a little dosa,

0:25:460:25:49

which normally we have it for breakfast.

0:25:490:25:52

'By now the idlis are ready.'

0:25:530:25:55

Oh, look at those!

0:25:550:25:57

-So light, aren't they?

-They are great.

0:25:590:26:02

'Both the idlis and the dosas are served

0:26:030:26:06

'with a series of traditional southern-Indian dips.'

0:26:060:26:09

'What a feast!'

0:26:090:26:11

Now we've got the most authentic South Indian breakfast ready,

0:26:110:26:14

we've got some customers waiting for you,

0:26:140:26:17

-so shall we just go to the restaurant?

-Yeah!

-Yes.

0:26:170:26:20

'One of our absolute favourite breakfasts.'

0:26:230:26:26

These are lovely. Texture's great, isn't it?

0:26:260:26:29

It's brilliant.

0:26:290:26:31

'If you want a really good breakfast in Britain,

0:26:310:26:34

'you've got to search for it.'

0:26:340:26:36

And if you're lucky enough to find something like this,

0:26:360:26:38

there's no better start to your day.

0:26:380:26:41

'Like any good breakfast, whether dosas or a full English,

0:26:460:26:50

'the absolute key is quality ingredients.'

0:26:500:26:53

And if you're going to opt for a fry-up,

0:26:540:26:57

there's one thing you just can't do without.

0:26:570:27:00

Aye, I know what you mean, mate! Some good old-fashioned bacon.

0:27:010:27:06

And we want a proper taste - Wiltshire slow-cured,

0:27:060:27:10

not the watery stuff you get from the supermarket!

0:27:100:27:13

At one time the good stuff almost disappeared off the menu altogether,

0:27:130:27:18

and much of what you see today isn't actually the real deal.

0:27:180:27:22

You can wander round your supermarkets now

0:27:240:27:26

and see allegedly Wiltshire bacon,

0:27:260:27:29

but I think it should be Wiltshire bacon in inverted commas,

0:27:290:27:33

because it's the name

0:27:330:27:35

rather than the actual essence that they use.

0:27:350:27:40

Best Of British food hero Roger Keen

0:27:460:27:49

has lived and worked on his pig farm in Wiltshire for 70 years.

0:27:490:27:52

20 years ago he started to produce his own bacon,

0:27:530:27:57

cured in the traditional Wiltshire way.

0:27:570:27:59

Roger makes his bacon using a slow-cure process,

0:28:010:28:05

and is the only man still producing it this way in Wiltshire.

0:28:050:28:09

It's a method that was first introduced just up the road from his farm,

0:28:090:28:13

and it revolutionised how bacon was made in Britain.

0:28:130:28:16

And it's all thanks to one particular local family.

0:28:170:28:21

During the 1700s, the canny Harris family set up a small butchers'

0:28:270:28:30

in the Calne area,

0:28:300:28:32

taking advantage of its position on the pig-droving route of the day.

0:28:320:28:36

A lot of pigs were brought over from Ireland in those days,

0:28:380:28:42

and walked all the way from the Bristol Docks

0:28:420:28:44

up to London to the Smithfield markets,

0:28:440:28:47

and this enterprising butcher, this Mr Harris,

0:28:470:28:51

seemed to light on the idea

0:28:510:28:53

that not always are animals as fit as they might be.

0:28:530:28:56

There'd be an odd one or two stragglers,

0:28:560:28:58

and he would go along and bag a few cheap pigs, I suppose,

0:28:580:29:02

from the drovers that were moving the pigs,

0:29:020:29:05

and he started curing them to produce bacon.

0:29:050:29:10

In 1847, George Harris went to America

0:29:100:29:14

to set up a business. He was unsuccessful,

0:29:140:29:18

but while he was there, he picked up a rather special idea.

0:29:180:29:21

What he brought back with him was, in fact, a cure,

0:29:210:29:25

an American cure, as it turned out,

0:29:250:29:28

that had used brine, as opposed to the older cures

0:29:280:29:31

that were predominant in this country at that time,

0:29:310:29:34

which would be what we would now call the dry cures,

0:29:340:29:37

where you rubbed vast quantities of salt into the pig meat

0:29:370:29:41

in order to preserve it,

0:29:410:29:44

so that it could be put, without refrigeration,

0:29:440:29:47

into store, and sail round the world.

0:29:470:29:51

So two years it might be on a ship. It didn't go off.

0:29:510:29:54

It was barely edible,

0:29:540:29:57

it was so salty, so hard and so dry,

0:29:570:29:59

so this milder cure, the Wiltshire cure, the brine cure,

0:29:590:30:04

became, I suppose you could say, a tremendous success story

0:30:040:30:08

for the Harris family, who were at that time based in Calne,

0:30:080:30:12

and that became the home of Wiltshire cure.

0:30:120:30:15

There was a bacon factory in virtually every town,

0:30:150:30:19

but in the '60s and the '70s, they closed down one by one,

0:30:190:30:23

unable to compete with Danish suppliers.

0:30:230:30:26

Traditional slow-cured bacon was almost lost forever.

0:30:270:30:31

Not the bacon! I think I need a tissue.

0:30:310:30:35

Aye, I know. It was bad news for Roger too,

0:30:350:30:38

as his pigs supplied the factories.

0:30:380:30:41

As well as losing proper bacon in their breakfast,

0:30:430:30:46

the Keen family were losing their livelihood.

0:30:460:30:50

Here!

0:30:500:30:51

So rather than let his farm go down the plughole as well,

0:30:510:30:54

Roger started a curing business of his own -

0:30:540:30:57

well, to save the bacon!

0:30:570:30:59

When the last local factory closed,

0:30:590:31:02

Roger went to see what equipment he could buy.

0:31:020:31:04

Instead, he ended up hiring the manager

0:31:040:31:08

and buying a very special ingredient.

0:31:080:31:10

We actually bought a gallon of brine

0:31:110:31:13

from the old Royal Wilts factory at Chippenham.

0:31:130:31:16

It's what you call a living brine.

0:31:160:31:19

There are living bacteria, a bit like cheesemakers

0:31:190:31:22

or the winemakers, all the artisan crafts.

0:31:220:31:27

It imparts something to the bacon.

0:31:270:31:30

One of the essential parts is keeping the temperature

0:31:300:31:34

at an ideal five degrees.

0:31:340:31:36

And you want it slightly... almost like a wine colour.

0:31:360:31:40

And maybe it's a hundred years old. I don't know, really, you know.

0:31:400:31:45

But there's a little bit of a mystique and magic in it, you know.

0:31:450:31:51

After being cured for three or four days,

0:31:520:31:55

it's drained and stacked,

0:31:550:31:57

and a week later, it's turned from pork into Wiltshire-cured bacon.

0:31:570:32:01

But if you like it smoked, you've got to wait a little bit longer.

0:32:010:32:05

After hanging above smouldering beechwood chippings

0:32:050:32:08

for a couple of days, the bacon takes on a deep golden colour,

0:32:080:32:11

ready for slicing.

0:32:110:32:14

And I would suggest probably there's nobody else in the country

0:32:140:32:18

that actually does still produce Wiltshire-cured bacon

0:32:180:32:23

to the traditional Wiltshire recipe.

0:32:230:32:27

There's no denying Roger's bacon is pretty blooming special.

0:32:270:32:31

One bloke said he reckons his children were conceived

0:32:310:32:35

because of my bacon. I never really quite worked that one out.

0:32:350:32:38

We've also had a lady come back and say,

0:32:380:32:41

"I've just bought a pack of bacon from you,"

0:32:410:32:43

and I think, "Oh, good gosh, what's wrong now?"

0:32:430:32:46

She says, "I've been a vegetarian for 20 years."

0:32:460:32:49

"My family's going to kill me when I get home!"

0:32:490:32:52

So thanks to Roger, the only man in Wiltshire

0:32:530:32:55

still using the traditional method of curing bacon,

0:32:550:32:58

the area's historic contribution to the full English breakfast lives on.

0:32:580:33:03

I'd never eat anything else.

0:33:030:33:06

HE LAUGHS

0:33:060:33:07

Who'd have thought something as traditional as Wiltshire bacon

0:33:150:33:18

had an American influence?

0:33:180:33:20

Now, there have been many American imports onto these fair shores -

0:33:200:33:25

some good, some bad. But this is a belter, isn't it?

0:33:250:33:28

Aye. Eggs Benedict! The core of the idea came from America,

0:33:280:33:33

but I believe in my heart of hearts

0:33:330:33:35

that we English make the best eggs Benedict.

0:33:350:33:38

We have the best ham. We also have English muffins.

0:33:380:33:41

Our eggs Benedict is an extravagant combination

0:33:420:33:46

of muffins with a thick slice of ham, topped by a poached egg

0:33:460:33:50

and smothered in hollandaise sauce.

0:33:500:33:53

We're also going to knock up the posh version, eggs royale,

0:33:530:33:57

which replaces the ham with smoked salmon.

0:33:570:34:00

-It's Marilyn Monroe on a plate!

-Oh, it is.

0:34:000:34:03

It is. It's fantastic. I'm going to do the poached eggs.

0:34:030:34:07

I'm going to show you how to make poached eggs

0:34:070:34:09

the way that works, and Kingy will show you how to make hollandaise

0:34:090:34:12

without the aid of a parachute, without lumps

0:34:120:34:15

-or any kind of stress whatsoever.

-Yes, I will.

0:34:150:34:17

'And I'm going to poach the eggs in a high-sided frying pan

0:34:170:34:22

'to make sure they're going to be ready at the same time

0:34:220:34:25

'as everything else.'

0:34:250:34:27

You kind of pre-cook them, so you can do a dozen poached eggs

0:34:280:34:31

and just bring them to heat at the table,

0:34:310:34:33

so if you have six people coming round for breakfast,

0:34:330:34:36

there's no reason they can't all have poached eggs at the same time.

0:34:360:34:41

Now, while Dave's waiting for his water to boil,

0:34:410:34:43

a key element in hollandaise sauce is the vinegar.

0:34:430:34:47

We're going to take some white-wine vinegar

0:34:470:34:50

and half a shallot.

0:34:500:34:52

Chop it nice and fine,

0:34:520:34:54

and we're going to put that in a pan

0:34:540:34:56

with four tablespoons of white-wine vinegar,

0:34:560:35:00

ten peppercorns and a bayleaf.

0:35:000:35:02

'The story goes that eggs Benedict originated in New York,

0:35:020:35:07

'but there are two different versions of the tale.'

0:35:070:35:09

The first one is that eggs Benedict were created

0:35:090:35:12

by a Mr Lemuel "Lemmy" Benedict,

0:35:120:35:15

in 1894 at the Waldorf Astoria.

0:35:150:35:18

One day, suffering from a hangover, he wandered in.

0:35:180:35:21

He asked for toast, two poached eggs, some bacon

0:35:210:35:25

and a jug of hollandaise sauce to pour on the top.

0:35:250:35:28

Now, the other story is, at a deli called Delmonico's,

0:35:280:35:31

there was Mr and Mrs LeGrand Benedict,

0:35:310:35:34

and they went in there and invented the dish.

0:35:340:35:37

One thing that is true - in America,

0:35:370:35:40

every April the 16th is National Eggs Benedict day!

0:35:400:35:44

And that's great about the Americans, because, any available opportunity,

0:35:440:35:48

they'll celebrate and get flags out.

0:35:480:35:50

Ladies and gentlemen, the top tip of all tips

0:35:500:35:54

when making poached eggs - to ensure that your poached eggs

0:35:540:35:57

never go to ectoplasm or look like a Doctor Who monster,

0:35:570:36:00

you put the egg in its shell in the water

0:36:000:36:04

for precisely 20 seconds.

0:36:040:36:07

This kind of just sets them a teeny, teeny bit.

0:36:070:36:10

-And it's true. It works.

-The other trick with poached eggs is,

0:36:100:36:13

whenever you can, use really fresh eggs.

0:36:130:36:16

While we're waiting for those 20 seconds,

0:36:160:36:18

what happens is, the shallots, the bayleaf and the ten peppercorns

0:36:180:36:22

goes into that four tablespoons of vinegar.

0:36:220:36:24

We reduce it by half. Now, just keep an eye on this,

0:36:240:36:27

because it'll reduce quicker than you think.

0:36:270:36:30

Now, see that water? There's a gentle bubble.

0:36:320:36:35

Add to this a little drop of white-wine vinegar.

0:36:350:36:39

White-wine vinegar helps the eggs stay together,

0:36:390:36:41

but sometimes the chef in your hotel or your B&B,

0:36:410:36:44

he'll slap in loads of malt vinegar.

0:36:440:36:46

You don't know whether you're having a poached egg or fish and chips!

0:36:460:36:50

'To help pour the eggs into the water,

0:36:540:36:56

'break them into a bowl first.'

0:36:560:36:58

Create a whirlpool, gently, and float the egg in.

0:36:580:37:03

Keep the whirlpool going, and those strands all wrap around the egg.

0:37:030:37:08

They need about two minutes to cook. And when they're done,

0:37:110:37:15

plunge them straight into some ice-cold water.

0:37:150:37:18

This stops the cooking process.

0:37:200:37:22

We'll drain these on kitchen roll so they dry,

0:37:220:37:25

and they'll hold for two or three hours.

0:37:250:37:27

All we have to do when we're ready to serve them,

0:37:270:37:30

be it with bacon or an eggs Benedict then,

0:37:300:37:32

is to plunge them into boiling water for one minute,

0:37:320:37:35

and you have the most perfectly cooked, reliable poached eggs.

0:37:350:37:38

You can have a dozen at once in the pan,

0:37:380:37:40

so six people have two eggs each, bang-bang-bang, done.

0:37:400:37:44

That's how a restaurant should do it.

0:37:440:37:46

Ours are going to wait until the hollandaise sauce is done.

0:37:470:37:51

For the hollandaise sauce, we're going to gently melt

0:37:510:37:54

225 grams of butter in a pan.

0:37:540:37:57

'By now the vinegar should have reduced, so strain it into a bowl.'

0:37:570:38:01

All of that shallot flavour, the onion flavour,

0:38:010:38:04

the peppercorns and the bayleaf will have gone into that.

0:38:040:38:07

To start making the sauce,

0:38:070:38:09

we're going to whisk three egg yolks in a bain-marie.

0:38:090:38:12

Place a bowl over a saucepan of hot water so it's heated by the steam.

0:38:120:38:16

OK, so there's a little bit of heat but not too much,

0:38:160:38:19

and the water's hot, but it's not simmering or boiling.

0:38:190:38:22

You've got to watch out you don't scramble the eggs

0:38:220:38:26

before the magic's happened.

0:38:260:38:28

Be careful not to let the water touch the bowl directly.

0:38:280:38:32

And just a little bit of salt, and then we start to whisk.

0:38:320:38:37

You'll see the eggs change colour, to a really light...

0:38:370:38:41

-It's going already, mate.

-It is, isn't it?

0:38:410:38:44

And they'll thicken slightly as you whisk, these egg yolks. Look.

0:38:440:38:49

There we go. I mean, it's a little bit labour-intensive,

0:38:490:38:52

but it's worth it.

0:38:520:38:54

Little pinch of sugar, and then our spiced vinegar.

0:38:540:39:00

Now, keep whisking...

0:39:000:39:03

..as you drop it in.

0:39:050:39:08

Now, again give it a good whisk.

0:39:080:39:10

'Now slowly add the melted butter to the egg yolks,

0:39:100:39:14

'whisking all the time, so that they emulsify,

0:39:140:39:17

'and the sauce doesn't separate.'

0:39:170:39:19

It is going nice and mayonnaisey, isn't it?

0:39:260:39:29

Yeah. Lovely and creamy and buttery.

0:39:300:39:34

That's beautiful. I think the time has come

0:39:360:39:38

-for me to get my muffins on, Mr K.

-I think you're right, dude.

0:39:380:39:42

I love that consistency. That's going to cling

0:39:480:39:51

like Chris Bonington to the Matterhorn.

0:39:510:39:54

There we go. One lovely hollandaise sauce.

0:39:540:39:57

-Ohhh! May I?

-You may.

0:39:570:40:00

-Lush, isn't it?

-It's like...

0:40:010:40:04

if food was a velvet blanket that caressed your naked form,

0:40:040:40:09

it would be hollandaise sauce. Do you know what I mean?

0:40:090:40:13

It's like... Ahhhh!

0:40:130:40:15

Right. Muffins.

0:40:150:40:18

It's nearly ready!

0:40:180:40:19

We just need to slap a generous amount of butter onto the muffins,

0:40:190:40:23

and reheat the eggs in hot water for a minute.

0:40:230:40:27

Pop that back... Now, look at that poached egg.

0:40:270:40:30

A perfect poacher.

0:40:300:40:32

Next up, you have to make the hard choice between toppings.

0:40:340:40:37

Is it going to be traditional ham, or royale, the smoked salmon?

0:40:370:40:41

Take your pick, really, but that's good British boiled ham,

0:40:410:40:45

fresh eggs, smoked salmon -

0:40:450:40:48

who does it better than the Scots? - and the English muffin.

0:40:480:40:53

So, whether it was Lemuel Benedict

0:40:580:41:02

or Mr and Mrs LeGrand Benedict,

0:41:020:41:05

we've taken eggs Benedict and made them British over the years.

0:41:050:41:09

It's ours, and I think it's one of the best.

0:41:090:41:13

That hollandaise is immaculate, Kingy.

0:41:130:41:16

Just a few chives, and don't worry about them scattering on the plate.

0:41:160:41:20

Just a little sprinkling of black pepper,

0:41:200:41:23

and just an odd, teensy sea salt.

0:41:230:41:26

It's got to be one of the most perfect breakfasts.

0:41:260:41:28

You know the Americans. I mean, they're overpaid,

0:41:280:41:31

they're over here, but as long as they bring their eggs Benedict with them, they can stop.

0:41:310:41:36

-Oh, aye.

-Are you salmon or ham?

0:41:360:41:39

Well, I'll go ham, cos I know you're quite partial to salmon.

0:41:390:41:42

I'm quite democratic when it comes to these. I'll eat the lot.

0:41:420:41:45

HE LAUGHS Go on, man. You can have first dibs.

0:41:450:41:49

Whoa!

0:41:490:41:50

Look at that.

0:41:500:41:53

You see? Look at that egg. It's perfect.

0:41:530:41:55

Mmm!

0:41:550:41:57

Oh, now...

0:41:570:41:59

Oh, yes. Look at that!

0:41:590:42:01

And do you know what, Si? The chives give a lot to this, don't they?

0:42:030:42:07

The chives go so well with the hollandaise.

0:42:070:42:10

They just give it a little bit of savoury undertone.

0:42:100:42:13

Mmm!

0:42:130:42:14

That's the perfect eggs Benedict,

0:42:140:42:17

perfect muffins,

0:42:170:42:19

perfect kind of ham,

0:42:190:42:22

perfect salmon.

0:42:220:42:25

-Hollandaise is just right.

-Very, very good.

0:42:250:42:27

Thank you, America!

0:42:270:42:30

Well, thanks for the idea, but we do it better.

0:42:300:42:33

It may have been relegated to a hasty snack on the way to work,

0:42:440:42:47

but Britain has a fine breakfast heritage.

0:42:470:42:52

Whether it's home-grown delights,

0:42:520:42:54

spicy Victorian favourites or borrowed from abroad...

0:42:540:42:58

..British breakfasts are among the very best in the world.

0:42:580:43:03

Visit...

0:43:030:43:05

..to discover some amazing facts about the history of food.

0:43:090:43:13

And to find out how to cook up tonight's recipes.

0:43:130:43:17

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:170:43:22

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0:43:220:43:26

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