Food Pairings Hairy Bikers' Best of British


Food Pairings

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You know, we believe

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that Britain has the best food in the world.

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Not only can we boast

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fantastic ingredients...

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'Outstanding food producers...'

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Look at that!

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'..and innovative chefs...

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'but we also have an amazing food history.'

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Wow!

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Don't eat them like that!

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You'll break your teeth!

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During this series, we're going to be taking you

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on a journey into our culinary past.

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Everything's ready, let's get cracking.

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We'll explore its revealing stories.

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BOTH: Wow!

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And meet the heroes that keep our food heritage alive.

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It's a miracle what comes out of the oven!

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'And, of course, be cooking up a load of dishes

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'that reveal our foodie evolution.'

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Look at that!

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That's a proper British treat!

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We have a taste of history.

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-Quite simply... BOTH:

-..the best of British!

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MOTORCYCLE ENGINE REVS

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# You were meant... #

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Today's show is all about great food pairings

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and in Britain, we've developed some combinations

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that stand the test of time.

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Cheese and onion, pork and apple

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it's a mystery how our taste buds work.

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Aye. Many have tried to unravel the science of taste.

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They've dabbled with molecular gastronomy

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and the alchemy of flavours, but some things are meant to be.

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-Si.

-Dave. Hiya!

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In this programme,

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we'll be paying tribute to the most famous

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food double act - fish and chips,

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and exploring its place in our history.

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We'll reveal how one of the food combos we know and love,

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shockingly started life with a different partner.

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We'll find what makes one of Scotland's best known products,

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an ideal partner for many ingredients.

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And in the Best of British kitchen,

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we're going to breathe new life into old classics,

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by cooking them up with a Hairy Biker twist.

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First, a classic we all know and love...

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..pork and apple, Dave.

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-It's a classic food pairing, is it not?

-It is.

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It's been with us for millennia.

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And it's a pairing that's stood the test of time.

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But once you get one whiff

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of our succulent, sweet, slow roasted pork,

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paired with the slightly tart, sharp apple,

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there's no going back.

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Ah, we've got an absolute belter for you,

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our slow roast belly pork, with crispy thyme-seasoned crackling...

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..teamed up with roasted apple, sage and onion,

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and a tangy cider sauce.

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It's the ultimate combination of some

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naturally beautiful food buddies.

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This dish is all about the quality of the ingredients,

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and Britain does all this lot,

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like no-one else.

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This is a beautiful piece of belly pork, look at that.

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Its succulent and juicy and serves up nicely

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and you get cracking to die for. Fabulous.

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Now for the Hairy Biker's top tip on how to guarantee crispy crackling!

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You score it.

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What we're going to do is make sure the skin

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is really, really dry

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and if it seems damp to the touch,

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all you do is take some kitchen roll,

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push it into those seams.

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Me? I'm making a rub...

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it's a rub for his belly!

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And there's nothing we Hairy Bikers like more,

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than our bellies rubbed!

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But this rub is definitely for the pork!

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'I'm using couple of tablespoons of finely chopped thyme to flavour.'

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Just the leaves. I don't want it full of stalk.

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'A good pinch of pepper and a couple of teaspoons of sea salt flakes.

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'This will dry out the skin even more

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'and give a crackling crunchier than a bag of pork scratchings.'

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There we have it! The Hairy Bikers belly pork rub!

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Season the underside first,

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and just push that seasoning

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into the meat of that pork. Look at that!

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Beautiful! Push it all the way in.

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Open those gaps up

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and I'm rubbing the salt and herbs

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into those slashes on the meat.

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The key to crispy crackling, is a hot oven

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and dry skin and if you've got that, you're laughing!

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'As this will be going into a really hot oven,

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'our a tiny bit of water around the edge of the roasting tin,

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'to stop the meat juices from burning onto the bottom.'

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Because we'll reserve those

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to make a little bit of gravy a bit later on.

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That's a long way down the process

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because this is slow roasted belly pork.

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Into the fiery furnace.

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Put that in there

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for 30 minutes at 220 degrees Celsius for a fan oven

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then leave for a further one hour at 160 Celsius.

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That's an hour and a half in all.

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-That's just round one!

-Oh, yes!

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For round two, we're going to make an apple, sage and onion bed,

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that the pork will sit on for the second stage of roasting.

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Mix the onions, apple and sage

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put it right in the middle here, in a little trivet,

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and sit that fantastically part-cooked belly pork

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on top of that.

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Those are going to cook underneath the belly pork

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and be unctuous and lovely!

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For the pork bed, you need to peel, core and cut up

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three apples into thick chunks.

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You'll also need to slice two medium onions

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and pop them into the roasting tin.

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It has been a tradition for a long time,

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cooking apples with pork.

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The reason is, its the sharpness of the apples,

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it offsets the fatty nature of the pork.

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-Nice.

-Beautiful!

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-Lovely!

-That's what we're after!

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Let that sit for a minute or two.

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Lovely. Look at that!

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The earliest mention of pork and apple

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is in a collection of Roman recipes called Apicius.

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This ancient cookbook

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was named in honour of a first century Roman who,

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like us, liked a bit of luxury on his dinner plate.

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Though we'll avoid the recipe for flamingo's tongue!

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Finally, for the appley base,

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chop a good handful of sage leaves.

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You get some sage leaves that big and others that are well, that big!

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Use your judgement a bit.

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Give it a good old mix up.

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Look at that little bed of loveliness!

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That will cook down to a sticky mass

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of sage, onion and apple.

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Lift the pork onto its cosy bed of flavouring.

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Go along with a spatula

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and just tuck it under a bit so the belly pork, while cooking,

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protects the vegetables, so they don't burn.

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Pop that back into the oven,

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again leave it at 160 centigrade on a fan oven,

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for another hour.

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Next, use the juices from the meat to make cider gravy.

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If there's a lot of fat that's come out,

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what you do is skim it off.

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On this occasion it hasn't

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because we've used quite a lean bit of belly pork.

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Place the tin over a medium heat on the hob

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and stir in two tablespoons of plain flour.

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Mix that with the juices and just cook the flour for a while.

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-It kind of makes a roux, doesn't it?

-It does.

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We're not going to make much gravy but it's going to be very intense.

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-Are you ready?

-Certainly am!

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Deglaze this with cider!

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Mix in 200 ml of cider

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a bit at a time.

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Don't worry about lumps, we'll strain this.

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If you were just to eat that

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it would be far too salty and rich,

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so splash of water, about 100 ml...

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think that's enough, I can always put more in.

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What we'll do is turn the heat up a little bit

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so I can get that on a bubble and cook that flavour of flour out.

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I guarantee we're not going to need to add salt to this!

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The stuff from the pork is really salty.

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Just make sure you get all of that lovely caramelised flavour.

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-He'll do anything to get out of washing up!

-True!

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He'll scrape that till the Teflon's frothing on the top!

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Bit more water, mate!

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It's thickening up, ain't it?

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-Man.

-Look at that!

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That's beginning to look like gravy, ain't it?

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-Lovely!

-Look at that!

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That's heaven!

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If you fancy a really smooth gravy,

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it's worth sieving into a saucepan to get the bits out.

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After an hour, take the pork out of the oven.

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If the crackling's crisped up,

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it'll be music to your ears.

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Before you get all piggy with it,

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the pork needs to rest,

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so set it aside.

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Whatever you do, don't cover it with foil,

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or you'll steam the crackling and ruin the crispy loveliness.

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This is the little confit, let's mix it together, shall we,

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of the, look in there, the onions,

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the sage,

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and the most wonderful apples.

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That is going to be beautiful!

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# You were meant for me

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# And I was meant...#

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You are a lovely thing!

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-Shall I get the veg?

-Yeah!

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To make a meal with our perfect couple,

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it's worth cooking up some veg that complement the main event.

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We've gone for roast spuds and red cabbage.

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Look at that, Dave. That's a beautiful piece

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-of British pork.

-Best of British, that!

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See? Come on, tell me you don't want that! Oh!

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That's like the little confit of the apples,

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onions, laced with sage.

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It's like a super chutney.

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That plate, its yin and yang. It's wonderful pairings.

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You've got potatoes, gravy,

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we've got sage and onion,

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apples and pork,

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everything goes together.

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It's a proper, proper meal.

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Can I dress your little segment?

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Ooh, yes!

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-Ooh, sir!

-Thank you!

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That's sage on the top.

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Taste buds are in ecstasy.

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Sweet and savoury as well.

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That's what I love about belly pork.

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The meat is very, very succulent and actually quite sweet.

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The apples, just cutting through that succulent, sweet meat.

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Just perfect!

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That's one thing about British food, get back down to basics.

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There's a lot of really good food science

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and a whiff of common sense.

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Eat that, you want for nowt!

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Just perfect, absolutely perfect!

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What a great pairing!

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Does what it says in the catalogue, that!

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# You were meant for me... #

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Pairings like pork and apple are fantastic,

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but they also have an important part in our food history.

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Now, if we're talking about the ultimate food duo,

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there's a matchup that's so spot on,

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I can't imagine life in Britain without it.

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# Oh-h-h haddock or cod or sprats or hake

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# Filleted Dover sole

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# Kippers or scampi, plaice or skate

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# Mackerel by the shoal I tell you

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# Everything's fresh and newly fried Hot to the fingertips

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# You've never eaten till you've tried

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# Old English fish and chips

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# Oi! #

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When it comes to great British food pairings

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you don't get much greater

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than the marriage of two

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of our most popular national foods,

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fish and chips.

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But surprisingly

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no-one agrees exactly where fish and chips got together.

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No-one knows who started cooking them either,

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but both north and south England,

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claim to have paired them up first.

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Down south in the 1840s,

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Londoners had a flourishing potato industry

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and a tradition of eating fried spuds.

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Meanwhile up north in Lancashire,

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they had a thriving fishing industry

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and love their fried fish.

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Both claim to have opened the first fish and chip shop in the 1860s.

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Jewish immigrant, Joseph Malin,

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opened his in London's East End...

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while in Manchester,

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John Lees called his shop a restaurant.

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They both became so popular,

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people opened fish and chip shops everywhere,

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including in their own houses.

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Working class diets were bleak and unvaried

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so fish and chips

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became a filling and affordable alternative.

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The meal even played its part in World War One.

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The National Federation of Fish Fryers

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claimed fish and chips enabled the factories to keep going

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and so helped win the war.

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And in World War Two,

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fish and chips were thought so essential to the family diet,

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that they were one of the few foods never rationed.

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Thousands of young evacuees found them a comforting reminder of home.

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'Sir Winston Churchill called them "the good companion".

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'No other food has won such a place

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'in the British way of life.'

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And the nation's favourite fry even managed to boost

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the morale of some lucky troops.

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'It's been said that the British tummy has three basic needs,

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'shops in Nicosia cater for two of them, fish and chips.'

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I wonder what the third was.

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The mind boggles.

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# Fish and chips

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# A little cork and you, oh babe... #

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After the war, fish and chips went upmarket

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and found its way onto the dinner plates of all classes.

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Good afternoon, sir. Ready to order?

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Yes, I'll have the haddock, chips, mushy peas,

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tea, bread and butter.

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Right, love. Thank you.

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Good here, ain't it?

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The idea of making this working class meal

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into a posh dining experience was the brainchild of one man.

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Harry Ramsden. He famously built up his restaurant empire

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from a small hut in Leeds in 1928.

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Now, over 50 years later, Harry Ramsden's is the biggest

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fish and chip shop in the world.

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That'll be a record breaker, then!

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The UK has over 10,000 fish and chip shops.

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More than half the adult population visits one at least once a month.

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-# Who invented fish?

-God!

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-# Who invented chips?

-God did too!

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-# Who invented fish and chips?

-The English did!

-Really? #

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But with fish stocks under threat,

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to feed our appetite in the future we're going to have to use

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other fish as well as our favourite cod and plaice.

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Hopefully that way our great fish and chip tradition

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is going to survive.

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Fish and chips are a classic combo,

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but the search for a perfect food match never ends.

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And to explore some modern food pairings,

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we're heading to Edinburgh.

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Scotland might be famous for its 'Haggis, Neeps and Tatties',

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but we're here to take a look at a more contemporary approach

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to Scottish cooking.

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The Scottish Whisky Heritage Centre houses a top quality restaurant

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that pairs the finest whiskies with Scottish produce,

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to create some intriguing food pairings.

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But before we head there,

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there's a very special collection we've got to see.

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-Wow!

-Wow!

-So this is the...

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Oh, wow!

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Oh, man!

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-So, welcome to the world's largest collection of Scotch whisky.

-Crikey.

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It's all whisky? It's not cold tea?

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No, it's all genuine stuff, never a bottle opened.

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'Showing us around is Marketing Manager, Julie Hunter.'

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What's the oldest bottle of whisky you have here?

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There are two really old bottles in the collection over here.

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One is M James Buchanan from 1897,

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and then next to it is the John Dewar's from 1904.

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-This is amazing.

-It is, isn't it?

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There are 3,500 different bottles of whisky,

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so each one is different, unique and individual.

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This is Scottish history in liquid form, I think. It's mad.

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Do you think you got every whisky in the world here?

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You know, we haven't.

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We've got 3,500, but we absolutely know

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that there are plenty of bottles that aren't in the collection

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and we're continuing to collect every year as well.

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Whisky has been distilled in Scotland,

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in one form or another, since the 15th century.

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There are countless varieties, all with highly individual flavours.

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Everything makes an incremental difference to the flavour,

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from the type of fuel that was used to dry the barley...

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'The furnace below the kiln is served with coke and peat.

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'The aroma of the peat imparted to the barley during the drying stage

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'eventually gives character to the whisky.'

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..to the kind of wood that makes the casks

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and how long it's aged for.

0:19:170:19:19

A drop of good stuff.

0:19:200:19:22

'A tap on the cask tells the expert ear whether it's still sound or not.'

0:19:220:19:27

Most importantly,

0:19:280:19:30

the character of the whisky varies from region to region.

0:19:300:19:32

Producers claim it's all about the local water.

0:19:320:19:36

An expert can easily tell which part of Scotland a whisky comes from.

0:19:360:19:40

These are the island malt whiskies from the island of Isla.

0:19:410:19:44

In cooking terms, this means each regional whisky brings

0:19:450:19:48

something different to the table.

0:19:480:19:50

One of the ways the Heritage Centre has been experimenting

0:19:540:19:58

with the different characters of whisky,

0:19:580:20:00

is by using it in their cooking.

0:20:000:20:02

David Neave is a classically-trained chef

0:20:030:20:07

who learned his trade in London and Paris.

0:20:070:20:09

He now experiments with whisky to find the perfect food pairing.

0:20:090:20:14

-Hello, I'm Dave.

-I'm another David as well.

0:20:140:20:16

'David takes ingredients from different regions of Scotland

0:20:160:20:20

'and pairs them up with a whisky from the same area.

0:20:200:20:22

'The idea is that they will naturally complement each other.'

0:20:220:20:26

Islay for example, if you put that with seafood, shellfish,

0:20:260:20:30

then it is just a magical thing.

0:20:300:20:31

It's very smoky, isn't it?

0:20:310:20:34

That comes through with the seaweed, it's like it's supposed to be there.

0:20:340:20:39

'His first dish is a selection of fish and seafood

0:20:420:20:44

'from the island of Islay, including langoustine and hake,

0:20:440:20:48

'paired up with Islay's local malt whisky.'

0:20:480:20:52

-Oh, that is fabulous.

-Not too bad.

0:20:520:20:55

It is just brilliant,

0:20:550:20:56

because fundamentally, in that pan, is Scotland, isn't it?

0:20:560:20:59

-And then we're just about to add a bit more.

-This is Islay.

0:20:590:21:04

'Mind your eyebrows!'

0:21:050:21:06

Oh, look at that.

0:21:060:21:08

'To get the subtle whisky flavours,

0:21:080:21:11

'David burns off the alcohol in the pan.'

0:21:110:21:13

You just know that it's going to taste fabulous.

0:21:130:21:16

Oh, I can't wait.

0:21:160:21:18

-I'm so looking forward to trying this.

-Oh, yeah.

0:21:190:21:21

That's a lovely looking plate of food.

0:21:230:21:27

-You cannot ask for more than that.

-I know.

0:21:270:21:30

-I think that's going to be a treat.

-Yeah, so do I.

0:21:300:21:35

Something has happened to the seafood. It's more seafoody!

0:21:350:21:40

-It's mad.

-That's gorgeous.

-Absolutely superb.

0:21:400:21:43

-You actually are eating this.

-It's absolutely gorgeous.

0:21:460:21:50

Absolutely superb. What an interesting food pairing.

0:21:520:21:56

Have you got any more?

0:21:560:21:57

'His next dish comes from the lowlands of Scotland.

0:22:010:22:05

'Venison stuffed with rabbit and wrapped in bacon,

0:22:050:22:08

'paired up with a lowland whisky.'

0:22:080:22:10

So this is a lowland whisky. Soft, subtle flavours, lovely.

0:22:100:22:14

-Yeah.

-It smells like grass, doesn't it? It smells of grass.

0:22:200:22:24

That's what we hope.

0:22:240:22:25

'Then to make a sauce from the juices and whisky, he adds some stock.'

0:22:320:22:36

-Look at that. Look at that.

-Beautiful, isn't it?

-Yes.

0:22:410:22:44

It's served with a clever dauphinoise of carrots,

0:22:460:22:49

neeps and tatties.

0:22:490:22:51

Lovely. Sweet with the honey, but the whisky...

0:23:000:23:04

That is spectacular.

0:23:040:23:05

-The whisky's complementing it.

-And it heightens the flavour.

0:23:050:23:09

-It's fabulous.

-Just gorgeous, isn't it?

-Really, really well balanced.

0:23:090:23:13

-David, fantastic food.

-A very clever food pairing. That sums it up.

0:23:130:23:19

Absolutely superb.

0:23:190:23:20

David, it has been our greatest of pleasures to meet you.

0:23:200:23:24

Thank you so very, very much.

0:23:240:23:25

I look forward to working my way through your menu.

0:23:250:23:28

It's great to see David's work

0:23:280:23:30

in creating new and exciting food pairings.

0:23:300:23:33

He's continuing the quest for a perfect match

0:23:330:23:37

that has obsessed chefs for millennia.

0:23:370:23:40

Marrying together natural taste companions has a long

0:23:450:23:48

and venerable history.

0:23:480:23:50

And in Cumbria one man has dedicated his life to exploring that tradition.

0:23:500:23:54

Best of British food historian, Ivan Day,

0:23:570:23:59

loves nothing more than to cook over an open fire in his farmhouse.

0:23:590:24:05

And he's got a surprise about one of our great British food pairings.

0:24:050:24:10

One of the classic combinations that everybody knows

0:24:100:24:14

in this country, is the iconic roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.

0:24:140:24:19

But if you delve a little bit into the history of the dish,

0:24:190:24:22

you find out that 250-300 years ago when it first evolved,

0:24:220:24:27

it wasn't roast beef, it was roast mutton and Yorkshire pudding.

0:24:270:24:32

So what I'm going to do today is to go back to the earliest recipe,

0:24:320:24:36

which is from 1737, and make you roast mutton and Yorkshire pudding.

0:24:360:24:43

Oh, that sounds delicious.

0:24:460:24:48

We're in for a treat, as Ivan isn't just going for one classic combination.

0:24:480:24:52

How about adding some seafood?

0:24:520:24:54

They used to stuff mutton with anchovies.

0:24:550:24:57

Kind of the original surf and turf.

0:24:570:25:00

If I smell a joint of mutton that's been hung for about 25 days,

0:25:010:25:04

it smells like an old, muddy creek, and anchovies have got

0:25:040:25:08

a very, very similar taste.

0:25:080:25:10

I think it's that that suggested to people the idea of combining it.

0:25:100:25:15

But we don't need to put any salt on at all,

0:25:150:25:19

because it's all been provided by these little fishy fellows.

0:25:190:25:23

Using this pastry brush, which is made out of goose feathers,

0:25:250:25:31

I'm going to give it a fairly nice anointing with some melted butter.

0:25:310:25:38

We won't need really to baste it very much at all,

0:25:380:25:41

because mutton has got a wonderful jacket of fat over the top.

0:25:410:25:46

Mutton like this is from a sheep more than a year old,

0:25:460:25:51

younger than that and it's lamb that gets the chop.

0:25:510:25:54

In the early days neither lamb nor mutton

0:25:540:25:56

were everyday foods for commoners like us.

0:25:560:25:59

We'd be on oats and barley.

0:25:590:26:00

This particular breed of mutton is local to the Lake District

0:26:030:26:07

where I live.

0:26:070:26:08

It's called Herdwick, and is one of the oldest breeds in Britain.

0:26:080:26:12

Probably at least 1,000 years old, and it is a mountain sheep,

0:26:120:26:17

so it is living mainly of wild herbs and grass,

0:26:170:26:21

so it has an amazingly sweet flavour.

0:26:210:26:24

So it's a bit of history in itself, the actual breed.

0:26:240:26:28

So that's ready to be hung up in front of the fire.

0:26:280:26:31

So here's how to roast.

0:26:380:26:40

Just hang it up in front of the fire.

0:26:400:26:42

But to do yourself a good turn, you need a bit of clockwork.

0:26:420:26:46

This gadget is called a bottle jack and it gently spins

0:26:500:26:53

so that the joint is cooked nice and even.

0:26:530:26:56

This mechanism first appeared at the end of the 18th century

0:27:000:27:03

and it enabled people to roast vertically,

0:27:030:27:07

instead of a great big spit with a huge fire going round that way,

0:27:070:27:11

this goes round in a vertical axis,

0:27:110:27:13

which meant you could use a much smaller fireplace, which meant

0:27:130:27:17

quite ordinary people living in a cottage or a small farmhouse

0:27:170:27:20

or even a townhouse could start roasting meat.

0:27:200:27:23

So during the 19th century, this became the most popular way

0:27:240:27:27

of the Englishman producing his Sunday dinner.

0:27:270:27:31

Nowadays we don't roast at all, we bake the meat in an oven.

0:27:310:27:36

And this is a lost English art.

0:27:360:27:38

Next, we need Yorkshire pudding.

0:27:400:27:42

Ivan is going to follow the first published instructions

0:27:420:27:46

from this 1737 book where it was originally called Dripping Pudding.

0:27:460:27:51

But it's not made of dripping.

0:27:510:27:54

Hang around and you'll see where the dripping bit from.

0:27:540:27:58

Ivan is using the familiar pancake recipe,

0:27:580:28:01

eggs and flour.

0:28:010:28:02

They didn't have electric mixers back in the 18th and 19th century,

0:28:020:28:06

but there was always a willing kitchen maid

0:28:060:28:09

or a little boy who would be given this sort of work.

0:28:090:28:13

And after beating, add milk.

0:28:130:28:14

OK, that's beginning to look like a nice, smooth batter now.

0:28:180:28:21

Well, I'd be putting my batter in a hot tin in the oven now.

0:28:230:28:26

But the old-fashioned way gives you something a bit special.

0:28:260:28:29

This is the Georgian and Victorian way of doing it.

0:28:290:28:32

I'm going to put the frying pan on to the fire.

0:28:320:28:37

After five minutes on the fire,

0:28:450:28:48

Ivan finishes off the cooking by placing it under the meat.

0:28:480:28:51

What we have here is the original combination of roast mutton

0:28:530:28:56

and Yorkshire pudding, and you can see the Yorkshire pudding

0:28:560:28:59

is rising like the wood in the oven, but it's now in front of the fire,

0:28:590:29:05

a process that used to be called firing.

0:29:050:29:08

There were lots of other fired puddings.

0:29:090:29:13

There was a wonderful potato pudding that was fired under meat

0:29:130:29:16

and even a suet pudding that was fired under a joint too.

0:29:160:29:20

So the Yorkshire pudding is the only surviving one

0:29:210:29:24

of this group of fired puddings.

0:29:240:29:26

The top crust now gets dripped on by all those delicious juices.

0:29:270:29:31

Hence the name dripping pudding.

0:29:310:29:33

All the meat juices run down the little bone

0:29:370:29:39

and drizzles the drips into the pan.

0:29:390:29:42

And what's going to happen is,

0:29:430:29:45

that will cook in the intense heat of this fire

0:29:450:29:49

and caramelise on top of the pudding,

0:29:490:29:51

and that's really what gives this 18th century Yorkshire pudding

0:29:510:29:56

its unique flavour,

0:29:560:29:57

and why it was such a popular dish to serve with meat.

0:29:570:30:00

That's it.

0:30:000:30:02

Oh, that meat looks a treat. A feast fit for a King.

0:30:030:30:07

But Ivan that looks a soggy mess to me, mate.

0:30:090:30:12

I know it looks like a chapatti that's gone wrong or a pizza

0:30:120:30:16

that someone's forgotten to put the topping on,

0:30:160:30:19

but this is actually the mother of all Yorkshire puddings.

0:30:190:30:24

Well, I have to say, paired with the roast

0:30:260:30:29

I wouldn't mind feasting on that.

0:30:290:30:31

Yep, there are flavours we'd never get to taste today

0:30:310:30:34

if it weren't for enthusiasts like Ivan.

0:30:340:30:37

1747, Yorkshire pudding, not with beef,

0:30:380:30:43

but with mutton studded with anchovies.

0:30:430:30:46

The flavour of the Georgian age.

0:30:460:30:48

Well, that's got us thinking.

0:31:000:31:02

For our final recipe we're going to take another traditional pairing,

0:31:020:31:07

but this time give it a modern twist.

0:31:070:31:09

Now one of those classical pairings has been pears and cheese.

0:31:090:31:14

But no more so than pears and Stilton. Pear and Stilton.

0:31:140:31:19

And we've turned this into what we believe to be

0:31:190:31:22

a modern British Classic.

0:31:220:31:24

We've turned it into a fruity little pear and stilton tartlet,

0:31:240:31:27

with good old walnuts for some extra crunch.

0:31:270:31:29

It's a real little feast.

0:31:290:31:31

-One, two.

-Yes!

-Three.

-Yes!

0:31:340:31:38

While Si's making the filling, I'm going to make the pastry.

0:31:380:31:41

It's really simple.

0:31:410:31:42

To start with, I just need 300g of plain flour and 175g of butter.

0:31:420:31:47

Blitz the crumbs, add an egg, and we have a very short pastry.

0:31:480:31:53

For the filling, prepare three Conference pears.

0:31:540:31:57

There's nothing like a Conference pear, is there?,

0:31:570:32:00

but pears have been around for a while.

0:32:000:32:02

And do you know, they were always thought more superior to apples.

0:32:020:32:07

Really?

0:32:070:32:08

Yes, in 1640 there were 64 known types of pear,

0:32:080:32:12

and by 1872, there were 700.

0:32:120:32:16

What we're going to do is peel the pears, slice them,

0:32:180:32:20

fry them in butter.

0:32:200:32:22

You know when you take the skin off a pear,

0:32:220:32:24

they're slippy little devils, aren't they?

0:32:240:32:27

-It's because they're juicy.

-Yeah.

0:32:270:32:29

Just pulse the flour and butter together

0:32:300:32:33

until they're like breadcrumbs.

0:32:330:32:34

Sling an egg in. Wacko! Mr Pastry!

0:32:340:32:38

There is no liquid in this crust apart from an egg,

0:32:400:32:44

but this is so short, it's shorter than Ronnie Corbett in his socks.

0:32:440:32:48

Just pulse and add, and a block of pastry will miraculously appear.

0:32:480:32:53

It's happening.

0:32:540:32:55

It never ceases to amaze me how making pastry is so simple.

0:32:550:33:02

So how come my Auntie Marion's always used to turn out

0:33:020:33:05

like cricket pads?

0:33:050:33:06

Now this is a swine to handle.

0:33:070:33:09

But you know, the harder it is to work with,

0:33:110:33:14

-the more it'll melt in your mouth.

-That's it.

0:33:140:33:16

Now, wrap this in Clingfilm, pop it into the fridge for half an hour,

0:33:160:33:20

and the butter will firm up again

0:33:200:33:22

and it will give us pastry that we can work with.

0:33:220:33:24

'But all will be lost if you can't get your tarts out of the tin.

0:33:260:33:31

'So use loose-bottomed pastry cases

0:33:310:33:33

'and give each one' a thorough coating of butter.

0:33:330:33:37

With the size of Dave's tartlets, they aren't going to fit in there,

0:33:380:33:44

but what I want to do is get a nice, even colour all over these pears.

0:33:440:33:48

So what we will do is half them when they come out of the pan

0:33:480:33:51

and they're evenly coloured.

0:33:510:33:53

What will happen is the sugar in the pears will caramelise

0:33:540:33:57

and sweeten to become the perfect partner for the savoury Stilton.

0:33:570:34:01

Stilton cheese is first thought to have seen

0:34:040:34:07

the light of day at the Bell Inn in Stilton.

0:34:070:34:11

And Daniel Defoe writes about Stilton in 1772

0:34:110:34:16

and there he calls it the English Parmesan, which is very interesting,

0:34:160:34:22

because Italians have been eating pair with Parmesan for years.

0:34:220:34:26

A bit of flour, and these tart tins can consider themselves

0:34:260:34:31

well and truly prepared.

0:34:310:34:34

Now we need to divide the pastry into eight.

0:34:340:34:36

Roll out, line the tart tins and blind bake them.

0:34:360:34:41

Oh, look, we've got some colour on these pears now. They go quite quickly.

0:34:410:34:46

They're fickle things, pears.

0:34:460:34:49

And when you buy a bag and you put them there and they're rock,

0:34:490:34:53

like hand-grenades four days, and you turn your back,

0:34:530:34:56

and the next minute they're cotton wool.

0:34:560:34:58

-You've got to catch it that moment when it's on the cusp.

-You do.

0:34:580:35:01

Tell you what, you don't put them next to bananas, do you?

0:35:010:35:05

Because if you put them next to bananas, bananas make everything go soft.

0:35:050:35:08

So take your bananas out the fruit bowl with the rest of your fruit

0:35:080:35:12

and put them to one side in isolation.

0:35:120:35:14

Don't make sure bananas with other fruit.

0:35:140:35:18

OK, look we are getting so nice colours on these pears now.

0:35:180:35:21

And that's just the sugars in the pears caramelising on the hot

0:35:210:35:25

surface of the pan, and that's what you want, that sort of lovely colour.

0:35:250:35:30

When doing the bases, roll out each pastry ball onto

0:35:310:35:35

a lightly-floured surface

0:35:350:35:37

and press it into the base and sides of the tins.

0:35:370:35:40

Make sure you trim off any excess.

0:35:400:35:42

Now I'm making a savoury custard

0:35:450:35:47

for the pears and stilton to cuddle up in, using three eggs,

0:35:470:35:50

300ml of creme fraiche and three finely chopped sage leaves.

0:35:500:35:54

What we want to do is mix that together, but don't whisk it too hard,

0:36:010:36:06

because if you put too much air in it it's not going to do the job

0:36:060:36:11

that it's supposed to do,

0:36:110:36:12

which is hold all those lovely, lovely textures in that tartlet.

0:36:120:36:16

And because these tartlets have a savoury element

0:36:160:36:19

I'm going to season with salt and pepper.

0:36:190:36:21

Tip the pears onto a piece of kitchen towel

0:36:240:36:28

to soak up the excess butter.

0:36:280:36:30

They are glistening with loveliness.

0:36:300:36:32

By now Dave should have finished lining the tins.

0:36:320:36:36

Hey! There we go. Eight.

0:36:360:36:37

I tell you what, that's a marathon session, dude.

0:36:370:36:41

It is quite impressive, that.

0:36:410:36:42

To prevent the pastry going soggy when we add the filling,

0:36:420:36:46

we've got to pre-bake the cases.

0:36:460:36:48

It's called blind baking and for this you usually add

0:36:480:36:53

a temporary filling of dried beans.

0:36:530:36:55

But we've dragged blind baking, along with pear and Stilton,

0:36:550:36:58

into the 21st century.

0:36:580:37:01

Don't worry, it won't burn,

0:37:010:37:03

a Clingfilm bag full of lentils that fits exactly.

0:37:030:37:07

I know it's an odd convention, but they use it in professional kitchens

0:37:070:37:11

all the time, so we're letting you in on a little secret, you see.

0:37:110:37:15

Make sure they're nice and tidy on the tray.

0:37:150:37:18

It doesn't make any difference, but it does to me.

0:37:180:37:21

Pop those into a preheated oven of 180 degrees Celsius,

0:37:210:37:24

for a fan oven, for 20 minutes.

0:37:240:37:27

Then we take the little baggies out

0:37:270:37:29

and leave them in for 10 minutes more.

0:37:290:37:31

Then we fill them, bake them and eat them.

0:37:310:37:33

Did you know that sage, for centuries,

0:37:430:37:45

has been used as a medicinal herb?

0:37:450:37:47

Yeah, I did. It was traditionally associated with long life as well.

0:37:470:37:52

I think I might have heard that somewhere, yeah.

0:37:520:37:56

Did you know that by washing your hair with sage infusion,

0:37:560:38:01

it lessened the chances of hair loss?

0:38:010:38:04

Obviously not.

0:38:080:38:09

I'll have to try that then.

0:38:100:38:11

Did you know that sage leaves were also good to rub on to a bruise?

0:38:110:38:16

And did you know that Italy, France

0:38:170:38:20

and Greece eat twice as much cheese as we do?

0:38:200:38:23

And did you know that every spring sees the inhabitants of Stilton

0:38:230:38:27

racing and rolling a cheese through their streets?

0:38:270:38:30

-I think I did, yeah.

-It's called a cheese roll.

0:38:300:38:33

After 20 minutes take out the Clingfilm bags.

0:38:360:38:39

Aaah! Aaah!

0:38:390:38:41

'Don't be daft, Dave, use a fork, mate.'

0:38:420:38:44

Turn the oven down to 150 degrees and bake for another ten minutes.

0:38:480:38:52

This will dry out the bottoms.

0:38:520:38:54

-Oh, nice, mate.

-Lovely, aren't they?

0:38:580:39:01

There is no sense of sog in those bases.

0:39:050:39:07

They're ready to receive the happy couple.

0:39:090:39:12

First, crumble in the Stilton.

0:39:120:39:15

And you don't need much, because Stilton can be a virulent beast.

0:39:150:39:19

But, this is the sour for the lovely sweet pears, which now,

0:39:190:39:23

thanks to Mr King, are beautifully caramelised.

0:39:230:39:26

What I am going to do is cut a few slices of pear in half,

0:39:260:39:32

and then just putting some in there.

0:39:320:39:36

It is all beginning to kind of work, isn't it?

0:39:360:39:39

It is one of those kind of mad things that you read it

0:39:390:39:42

and think, "I'm not sure."

0:39:420:39:44

Now the guests of honour for this happy occasion, the walnuts.

0:39:460:39:50

Just roughly sprinkle them over the top.

0:39:500:39:53

Nothing terribly refined.

0:39:530:39:56

You want to keep the texture integrity of all the flavours

0:39:560:39:59

and, actually, if the nuts on the top roast a bit,

0:39:590:40:02

there's nowt wrong with that.

0:40:020:40:05

It does kind of say autumn and winter.

0:40:050:40:07

It's got a lovely feel to it, the palate of flavours.

0:40:070:40:11

Finally, fill the tartlets with that lovely egg custard.

0:40:120:40:16

And tap them down to help it all settle.

0:40:160:40:20

And they shouldn't rise up much, so don't worry about filling them to the top.

0:40:210:40:26

And then just go round and just top up once it's settled.

0:40:260:40:28

The tartlets now need to go back in the oven at 150 degrees Celsius

0:40:380:40:43

for another 30 minutes or until set.

0:40:430:40:45

Yes! Now these will need to cool a tadge.

0:40:530:40:56

They are bubbling away like a good'un, aren't they?

0:40:560:40:59

I'd give them five minutes then pop them out of the case,

0:40:590:41:02

then give them another 10 and then consume whilst warm.

0:41:020:41:05

They are beautiful.

0:41:050:41:06

Look how that's bubbling. Look at that.

0:41:060:41:08

I must say, nicely filled, Mr King.

0:41:080:41:11

'These sumptuous tarts are stunning served warm,

0:41:160:41:19

'with a green salad of watercress and rocket.'

0:41:190:41:22

Look at those. Look at those.

0:41:220:41:25

I'm at a bit of a loss with this one.

0:41:250:41:29

-Let's eat it.

-I think so.

-We might as well.

0:41:290:41:32

Look at that.

0:41:360:41:38

That's all that lovely caramelised pear, the Stilton,

0:41:380:41:41

crunchy walnuts and egg and creme fraiche.

0:41:410:41:44

And a pastry that's as light as a light thing.

0:41:440:41:47

She's a bonny little tart.

0:41:520:41:53

What's lovely about it is, it's one of those textures,

0:41:530:41:56

the sage goes through it.

0:41:560:41:58

-But when you hit the pear...

-Lovely, isn't it?

0:41:580:42:03

But that pastry, it's so simple. It's flour, butter and one egg.

0:42:030:42:09

Nothing else. And it tastes stupendous.

0:42:090:42:13

And that is a perfect pairing. The pear and the Stilton. Beautiful.

0:42:130:42:18

With walnuts and sage as the bridesmaids.

0:42:180:42:22

What more can you say?

0:42:220:42:24

There are some foods that are just made for each other.

0:42:260:42:29

You know if you team them up, you're in for some fantastic flavours.

0:42:290:42:34

And the great thing is, you can use food pairings to experiment

0:42:350:42:38

and create all kinds of fantastic meals.

0:42:380:42:41

But more than that, food pairings are part of our national identity.

0:42:440:42:47

Landmark dishes where you can't think of one part without the other.

0:42:470:42:52

And whilst we have some great old traditions,

0:42:540:42:57

there are new combinations popping up to keep British food pairings fresh.

0:42:570:43:02

Visit bbc.co.uk/food to discover some amazing facts

0:43:040:43:10

about the history of food.

0:43:100:43:12

And to find out how to cook up tonight's recipes.

0:43:120:43:16

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:300:43:33

Email: [email protected]

0:43:330:43:36

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