Feel Good Food Hairy Bikers' Best of British


Feel Good Food

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You know, we believe that Britain has the best food in the world.

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Not only can we boast fantastic ingredients...

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Look at them!

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'Outstanding food producers...' That's impressive.

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And innovative chefs...

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Oh, man!

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But we also have an amazing food history.

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Oh, wow!

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Don't eat them like that - you'll break your teeth.

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Now during this series, we're going to be taking you on a journey

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into our culinary past.

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Everything's ready, let's get cracking.

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We'll explore its revealing stories.

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Wow!

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And meet the heroes who keep our culinary past alive.

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It's a miracle what comes out of the oven.

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And of course, be cooking up a load of dishes that reveal our foodie evolution.

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Look at that. That's a proper British treat.

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We have a taste of history.

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Quite simply - the Best of British!

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We love the British landscape.

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It's so luscious and fertile,

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and our climate offers so much seasonal variety.

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It makes you feel good, just...breathing in the air.

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Just looking at it.

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But food does that for us as well, doesn't it, dude?

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It does. Sometimes the right bowl of nosh can change the way you feel.

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Think about a nice big bowl of creamy, fluffy mashed potato.

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Ooh, yeah. Or cream of mushroom soup. It just takes you to another plane, doesn't it?

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Throughout the history of our nation,

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we've thrived on a huge variety of produce offered up by our green and pleasant land.

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Not only has it kept us nourished and healthy,

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it's given us comfort during hard times.

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So, in today's show, we're going to sample the very best health and comfort food

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our sceptred isle can provide.

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And first, we're off to the Best of British Kitchen

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to show you our five factors of feel-good food.

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Feel-good food. It works in many different ways.

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There's food to make you feel good when you're poorly.

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And food that makes you feel comforted, that you look forward to when you get home.

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There's food you reward yourself with,

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like a treat to make yourself feel good.

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And there's food that just is plain and simple utter satisfaction.

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That's what you want, that's what you fancy, and it makes you feel warm and cuddly inside.

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And there's food that has a smug factor, cos it's something you can cook,

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you show it to other people, they think you're fabulous.

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All those five things are things that make you feel good.

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We've got a recipe that fulfils all this criteria.

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It is our Hairy Bikers' fragrant chicken noodle soup!

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One of the things we love about British food

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is how it's absorbed so many influences from other world cuisines.

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And there's no better example than chicken noodle soup.

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There are many different Asian and Jewish varieties on our menus,

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and this one is a fusion of our favourites.

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We've crossed a hot, sour, fragrant and spicy Thai soup

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with a traditional Yiddish chicken noodle broth.

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And we're making minced chicken balls,

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that are easy to eat, but spicy enough to perk you up and get you back on your feet again.

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My first task is to make some spicy chicken balls.

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They're going to float in the soup.

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So they're a treat for yourself as you wade through the noodles and broth.

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What I'm going to do is make and infuse that broth with all manner of lovely things.

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So the first thing we start with

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is one litre of really, really good chicken stock.

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Look at that.

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While Si prepares the ingredients for the infusion,

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I'm getting on with the chicken balls.

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250g of minced chicken.

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A mixture of thigh and breast is good for this.

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Put those in a bowl, with two finely chopped spring onions.

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There are two bird's-eye chillies here, that I'm splitting lengthways.

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All the way through.

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Chillies make you feel good, don't they?

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-They do.

-They spice up your life, they make you feel warm,

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and they release endorphins so, actually, they do make you feel good.

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I'm going to finely chop a lovely piece of lemon grass,

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and that is the fragrance that I absolutely love.

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So even the scent of this soup makes you feel good.

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Including the green bits, go in.

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One chopped spring onion goes into the chicken

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along with a big handful of coriander.

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Coriander makes you feel good because it tastes great.

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Again, it's fragrant, but it's said that it helps your digestion.

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The very thought of chicken noodle soup,

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it's comforting when you're poorly. It's nickname is Jewish penicillin.

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I'm finely slicing a good, thumb-sized piece of ginger.

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And these chicken balls are going to be quite small

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so I want all my ingredients chopped fine.

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And we need one chopped bird's-eye chilli,

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and a large pinch of salt and black pepper.

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One tablespoon of cornflour, so that it sticks together.

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And I almost forgot. One finely crushed clove of garlic.

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With clean hands, work this together, and it kind of makes a chicken paste.

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The minced chicken meat is almost like jelly

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but the cornflour holds it together.

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It's lush, man. They're lovely. It's that sort

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-of food that just makes you smile.

-Oh, yeah.

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That's what it is, that's feel-good food.

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All the emotions that you have around food, this soup, for us,

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brings it out.

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-Si, look at the colour of those, the meatballs.

-Absolutely beautiful.

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We want small meatballs on this,

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so this will make about 16-20 chicken balls.

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Now I need to dust my hands with cornflour, and the surface,

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or else the chicken will stick to me hands.

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I take great delight in getting all me

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balls perfectly formed and the same size.

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Now the balls are done, we need to get our chicken stock

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infusing its magic ingredients.

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Five crushed Kaffir lime leaves,

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two sliced bird's-eye chillies, a thumb-sized piece of ginger,

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three halved cloves of garlic, a piece of lemon grass and a shallot.

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-It's one porky broth.

-It certainly is.

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We're going to let that simmer for about 15 minutes

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so all of those lovely flavours are infused in that chicken stock.

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At that point, we'll strain it,

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and add some more.

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The smell of that is coming over now, the kaffir lime leaves. Oh, man!

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These chicken balls are quite easy to form. It's not mission impossible.

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And once, for us, this is a very healthy dish.

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There's no fat in this dish whatsoever, is there?

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No, just a bit in the chicken broth, maybe, but that's it.

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So nice and so few calories too - what's happened to us?!

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-Guilt-free eating.

-We'll be going on a diet next.

-Steady on.

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That's starting to infuse, look at those beautiful flavours

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all seeping in to that fantastic chicken stock.

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-And the smell is just beautiful.

-I know.

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Do you know, man, I look at me balls and glow with pride.

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I'm not surprised, they're perfect.

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If there's anybody going to roll a ball to perfection, it's that.

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When broth and balls come together, there truly is magic in the kitchen.

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-What?

-Maybe we should call ourselves that, Brath and Balls.

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After 15 minutes, the infusion has done its job and our stock needs straining.

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-We're ready.

-We're ready to rock.

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Hot broth.

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Right, the broth.

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Now bring that back to a simmer.

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But now we start the build for the final soup itself.

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For the broth itself, we need freshly chopped ingredients

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-as they have more bite and flavour than the ones we were infusing.

-Take the outer leaves off.

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First, another piece of lemon grass bashed with a rolling pin

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to release its flavour.

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The shallots.

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And the chilli, finely, finely chopped.

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We season the broth with Thai fish sauce, nam pla.

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We can always add more of this at the end. One...

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..two.

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Now add two tablespoons of lime juice.

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It helps to get the juice out if you squash it first

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and cut across the middle.

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Keep half a lime to squeeze over the finished soup.

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Crikey, this is good!

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-I feel good looking at it, don't you?

-Oh, yeah.

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Bring that to the simmer, and time to add the balls.

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How fabulous. You can smell the chicken starting to cook in it.

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-It's great.

-Look how the colour's changed, almost immediately,

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as soon as the balls have hit the broth.

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We only need 5-8 minutes for them to cook through, to the middle.

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To the broth,

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we're adding some healthy colour, some mangetout and red pepper.

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-I'm going to cut this dead fine, Kingy.

-Yeah, lush.

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We don't want it overloaded with chunks of pepper,

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-it's not that sort of soup.

-No.

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And what we're going to do with the mangetout, because it looks really nice,

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we're going to cut it across, like that.

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See? That sort of thing.

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And we're going to cook the mangetout

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and the peppers only for a couple of minutes.

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These really give the soup some crunch.

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With a soup this bright, you just know it's going to be good for you.

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There have been some scientific experiments conducted to see

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if chicken noodle soup is in fact good for the common cold.

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And it does relieve the symptoms in your head.

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They gave people water, people hot drinks and people chicken soup.

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Cold water, no. Hot water was better.

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Chicken noodle soup was great because apparently it stimulated your nose hairs.

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And it stops your nose running which, in turn, makes you head feel lighter.

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So whilst it didn't cure your cold, it made you feel better.

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-So maybe all these Jewish grannies...

-Were right.

-Yeah.

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-Now for the noodles.

-Use whatever noodle you want,

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but the flat noodles kind of hold the broth nicely, don't they?

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They do. Just push them in and try very hard not to break them up.

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-Just sit them there like that.

-Don't break your balls up, whatever you do.

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No, that would be wrong.

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-Bit of colour and crunch, Kingy.

-I think so. The mangetout.

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And the red pepper.

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You just want to cook those off for a couple of minutes

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so they retain their crunchiness and texture.

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-Shall we, Mr K?

-I think we should.

-Look at this, isn't that pretty?

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-Oh, yeah.

-Again, treat yourself to a nice bowl, because you deserve it.

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-It's an event.

-It is. Are you going to do one of those squirly things with the noodles?

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-Yeah, we could do.

-You know what I mean,

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like they do in posh restaurants.

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And you put it in the centre, like that.

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Fabulous.

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-Do you think five balls?

-Yeah, lovely. Fantastic.

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Dress it with some more coriander and a slice of lime.

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-Oh!

-Yes.

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The colours are cheering me up.

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This has everything.

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If this doesn't put a smile on ya mush, I don't know what would.

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It's limey, you've got your vitamin C going in there,

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got your protein, it's low fat.

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It's bursting with flavour.

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Nice bit of carbohydrate with your noodle. Chicken soup.

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-That is feel-good food, is it not?

-Yeah.

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-I feel great!

-I'm feeling better all the time, I tell you.

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-Fancy a hike?

-Yeah!

-Hey, do you work out?

-No.

-Woa!

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That's our Hairy Bikers' chicken noodle soup, infused with

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lemon grass and chilli, the perfect, comforting, pick-me-up in a bowl!

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Sometimes, as we all know,

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feeling poorly is the result of working too hard, and not taking care of ourselves.

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Or over-indulging.

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Now, during the 18th and 19th centuries,

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all of these problems threatened the health of our nation.

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In the new towns and cities of the Industrial Revolution,

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the factory slums swelled rapidly with no infrastructure or amenities.

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But alehouses and gin palaces, awash with cheap untaxed alcohol,

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offered a warm, dry place to spend the evening,

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nourishment, in liquid form, and, above all, a one-way ticket to oblivion from the grinding poverty.

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By the early 19th Century, Britain's fledging industries

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were losing factory workers who were taking Monday and Tuesday,

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and sometimes even Wednesday, off,

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to recover from the heavy weekends of drinking.

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But the devout Methodists of the North, were growing concerned that

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over the course of the last century, Britain was losing it's workforce to...

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..the demon drink!

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What a terrible thing it would be for our children to see people

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coming from public houses when they come out from Sunday school.

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In 1832, a Methodist cheesemaker called Joseph Livesey made

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a plan to get Britain back to work.

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He persuaded seven of his fellow working men to sign

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a pledge that they would never touch a drop of the hard stuff again.

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And so the temperance movement was born!

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It grew rapidly.

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By the 1840s, temperance societies all over Yorkshire and Lancashire

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had convinced many of the working classes to take

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the pledge of total abstinence from alcohol.

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And by 1900, about one-in-ten adults was a teetotaller.

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Temperance bars, basically pubs without alcohol, opened,

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to woo punters away from the booze.

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They brewed their own non-alcoholic, fermented, herbal cordials and beers.

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And they were a hit! Temperance bars were everywhere!

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We're off to Rawtenstall in Lancashire to find

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the last surviving temperance bar in Britain.

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This may be a golden opportunity for us to turn over a new leaf!

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From time to time, we've all over-indulged,

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and there's a time to draw back, to look after yourself.

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You know you've eaten too much, you need to diet, you need to lead a more sober existence.

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If you drank too much, it gets too much, there is a need to lead a more temperate lifestyle.

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And that's what a temperance bar is for.

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-I don't want to lead a temperance lifestyle!

-You do, come with me.

-I don't want to!

-Come on.

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Our Best of British Food Hero, Chris Law, is the owner

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of Fitzpatrick's Temperance Bar, which opened its doors in 1890.

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Today, it still brews the same kind of non-alcoholic cordials

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and herbal potions that were bestsellers at the turn of the century.

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I think he can convince us to take the pledge

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and we can swap our stout for sarsaparilla.

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-A temperance bar.

-It's amazing.

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Doesn't sell anything alcoholic because it's about abstinence, isn't it?

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-That's correct.

-And what flavours do you do, Chris?

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The popular ones are the sarsaparilla, the dandelion and burdock,

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the blood tonic, then it's lemon and ginger, ginger on its own,

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-cream soda, and then elderflower and apple.

-Ooh!

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I remember the drinks from when I was a child,

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and sarsaparilla and dandelion and burdock, I love them. It's part of our food heritage.

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Though temperance bars had disappeared by the late 20th Century,

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these drinks were still popular when we were growing up in the North.

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Sarsaparilla comes from the bitter root

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imported from the Caribbean and is the original root beer.

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Dandelion and burdock

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is a tasty herbal brew first made in England in the 13th century.

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And one of my faves, blood tonic,

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with infused nettles, raspberries and rosehips.

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See, we've been overdoing it a bit recently.

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-We need to cut down, we need to look after ourselves.

-Will you shut up!

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-For me, personally, I could do with a bit of blood tonic.

-OK.

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-Could I have a sasp?

-Surely can.

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-There's your blood tonic.

-Thank you very much, Chris.

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-Look at the head on that, man.

-It's quite scented.

-Ooh, yeah.

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-Drink of the gods, isn't it?

-Oh, this is going to take us back.

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-Can't say cheers, can you? What do you say?

-To the pledge.

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It's good - it's like cherryade.

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These drinks are not only delicious, they're said to cure

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all manner of ills, from skin problems to arthritis.

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They also help to purify the blood, maintain your liver and kidneys

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and they help keep you regular.

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You can't say that about a shot of tequila!

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In their heyday, how popular were these cordials?

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They were really popular. We have a small shop here

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but some of these temperance bars and things like that,

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they had jukeboxes in, and the odd billiards table at the time,

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the old game sticks and things like that. They were like a meeting place

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that sold a non-alcoholic beverage.

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Yes. And this where you could come and drink and chat and do everything

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you did in a pub but presumably get healthier by the minute.

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Having bought the bar from the last member of the Fitzpatrick family,

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Chris is now devoted to reviving interest in these legendary drinks.

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After all, so much thought went into creating them in the first place.

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People were very inventive with their soft drinks, weren't they?

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They were probably experimenting with different plants and getting certain flavours.

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There was lots of cloak and dagger, wasn't there, about people's recipes

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being kept really secret, about their tonics and stuff, wasn't there?

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There's about six people now in Great Britain that make sarsaparilla.

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And I know them all. We all try to banter each other to find out

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what's in theirs and what's not in theirs.

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-What a gift that is, isn't it?

-It is.

-To have the thought, to go, "Right, I'm going to get these

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"old-fashioned flavours back on the map." And you've certainly done that, and they taste fabulous.

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From the humble brews of the temperance movement,

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botanical beverages made it to the mass market.

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Vimto, originally known as Vim Tonic,

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a flavoured fruit cordial said to restore energy and vigour,

0:20:590:21:02

was created by a pharmacist from Manchester in 1908.

0:21:020:21:06

It carried the temperance legacy late into the 20th century,

0:21:060:21:10

becoming a household name which is still popular,

0:21:100:21:12

particularly in Northern England.

0:21:120:21:14

-A drink, sir?

-What you got?

-I've got cold fruity Vimto, hot fruity Vimto,

0:21:140:21:20

long sparkling Vimto with ice, short sparkling without ice.

0:21:200:21:24

Whoop! Ha-ha!

0:21:270:21:31

Whoop it up with Vimto.

0:21:310:21:33

Ironically, its American rival,

0:21:340:21:36

which was born in the 19th century in Atlanta, Georgia,

0:21:360:21:39

took the mass market by storm, ushering in a tidal wave

0:21:390:21:43

of sugary fizzy drinks that weren't as good for you as those original botanical brews.

0:21:430:21:49

-Chris, do you think we could imbibe one of your dandelion and burdocks?

-You certainly can.

0:21:490:21:53

-Imbibe?!

-I'm trying the temperance speak, you know?

-Oh, man! He's off.

0:21:530:21:59

If you sign the pledge, that's it, it's curtains.

0:21:590:22:01

Not one drop shall pass and all that. You sign that.

0:22:010:22:05

And they have spies.

0:22:050:22:06

-Cheers.

-Do they?

-Yeah.

-Do they?

-Yeah, they do.

-It smells brilliant.

0:22:060:22:11

-There you go.

-Thank you very much.

0:22:170:22:19

Mr King, here's to abstinence and purity of thought,

0:22:190:22:22

at least for 10 minutes.

0:22:220:22:24

That really is refreshing.

0:22:270:22:30

-Oh, it's mega, man.

-It's good, isn't it?

0:22:320:22:34

-The memories flood back, don't they?

-Yeah, they do. What's lovely is that it's really nostalgic

0:22:340:22:39

because you smell it first, and then, just as you're putting it to your lips...

0:22:390:22:43

-Oh, so great.

-But do you drink alcohol?

0:22:430:22:47

I've a note that says for medical reasons I've got to take iron.

0:22:470:22:51

-Not a lot, just iron.

-Yes, so really stout for medicinal purposes.

-Yeah.

0:22:510:22:55

And what about you guys? Do you have a tipple now and again?

0:22:550:23:00

-Never(!)

-Not any more? Not any more, not since this afternoon, for a bit.

0:23:000:23:03

'He's lying - he's drunk!'

0:23:030:23:05

-Hope they've changed you.

-It has.

0:23:050:23:07

It's changed me physically, morally and spiritually.

0:23:070:23:11

-I'm the better man for it.

-I'm sorry, I'm just worried that you're running a temperature

0:23:110:23:15

and delusional!

0:23:150:23:16

It's all right, you know. That'll be short-lived. That's good, that.

0:23:180:23:24

It'll be beer o'clock soon.

0:23:240:23:25

THEY LAUGH

0:23:250:23:26

Chris, mate, thank you so much.

0:23:260:23:28

It's a beautiful bar, and thanks very much for sharing it with us.

0:23:280:23:33

-Thank you very much.

-Thanks, Chris.

-It's been an absolute pleasure, guys.

0:23:330:23:36

You know what, mate? This is one bar that we can ride home from.

0:23:360:23:40

-One for the road.

-I'll drink to that.

0:23:400:23:43

Mm, nice one.

0:23:430:23:46

-See you.

-See you later, mate.

-There's one thing -

0:23:460:23:49

we have been going for 120 years.

0:23:490:23:51

That's because people pay for their drinks when they come here.

0:23:510:23:55

-How's that?

-I was just... you know.

-Thank you very much.

0:23:550:23:58

'Thanks to brewers like Chris, sarsaparilla, dandelion and burdock

0:23:580:24:02

'and their botanical buddies are back on the market,

0:24:020:24:05

'finding new fans today.'

0:24:050:24:06

'And the good news is, you don't need to be tee-total to enjoy them!'

0:24:060:24:11

When it comes to the kitchen, our herbal heritage is huge.

0:24:160:24:19

Despite this, the same old suspects seem to crop up again and again.

0:24:190:24:24

# Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme... #

0:24:240:24:28

It seems that in post-war industrialised Britain,

0:24:300:24:33

many of the plants we relied on for centuries fell out of use.

0:24:330:24:38

However, over the last 30 years they've started to make a comeback

0:24:400:24:45

and, as in many things culinary, Delia led the way.

0:24:450:24:49

Just like in the 18th century.

0:24:490:24:52

Back in the 1980s, she had some help from THE celebrity chef of the day,

0:24:540:24:59

-Robert Carrier.

-That's rocket, and I love it because it's so strange

0:24:590:25:03

and so different.

0:25:030:25:04

It comes from France originally, and from Italy. Taste that...

0:25:040:25:08

and tell me what you think about it.

0:25:080:25:11

-Mm, it's got a very nutty flavour.

-And peppery?

-Mm-hm.

0:25:110:25:17

-And, to me, meaty. Do you agree?

-I do.

0:25:170:25:19

-It tastes a bit like lamb.

-That's beautiful.

0:25:190:25:21

It was Queen Elizabeth I's favourite herb.

0:25:210:25:24

In fact, she used to call it sweet rocket, which is lovely, so now we call it that because we want

0:25:240:25:28

to be like her. We want to use herbs in the Elizabethan manner

0:25:280:25:32

in a "sallet", in which we pick a whole sprig of them,

0:25:320:25:38

not just a leaf. We want to use them and use them because, in Elizabethan days,

0:25:380:25:42

salads were made of sprigs of herbs, not lettuces.

0:25:420:25:44

So Robert and Delia helped reintroduce us to rocket

0:25:460:25:49

in an era when a herb salad meant shaking a packet onto some

0:25:490:25:52

tired old lettuce leaves.

0:25:520:25:54

Thanks to them and other campaigning chefs, today fresh herbs are available in every supermarket.

0:25:560:26:02

But dozens of others are still buried deep in botanical history.

0:26:020:26:07

But there's hope!

0:26:100:26:12

Because, in Gloucestershire, our Best of British Food Hero,

0:26:120:26:15

Jekka McVicar, is a world authority on culinary herbs.

0:26:150:26:20

Taking on the mantle from Robert and Delia, she's made it her mission

0:26:200:26:24

to bring traditional British herbs back to the kitchen.

0:26:240:26:28

Herbs not only look good, smell good and do you good,

0:26:280:26:33

they can transform a meal into a feast.

0:26:330:26:37

They help your digestion, they can inspire hunger.

0:26:370:26:41

It is the herbs that entice you to the table.

0:26:410:26:45

So they make you feel good before you've even sat down.

0:26:450:26:49

She's so right!

0:26:490:26:51

And her farm is home to over 600 herbs.

0:26:510:26:53

It's the largest collection in the UK, and today she's sharing

0:26:530:26:57

some of her secrets with two new members of staff.

0:26:570:27:00

They're joining her quest to resurrect our rich herbal heritage.

0:27:000:27:04

I'm going to take you through some of the plants that you may not have

0:27:120:27:17

actually had before or tasted before or seen before.

0:27:170:27:20

Tella Asiatica - a leaf a day keeps old age away.

0:27:200:27:25

It hasn't quite worked for me yet!

0:27:250:27:28

THEY LAUGH

0:27:280:27:29

Doesn't she look great for 105?!

0:27:290:27:32

I've got to get meself some of that gear!

0:27:320:27:35

It's a herb, dude, not a miracle!

0:27:350:27:37

This is meadowsweet. This is one of our natives. Amazing plant.

0:27:370:27:41

This goes under many names, been used for thousands of years, one of the sacred herbs of the druids.

0:27:410:27:47

You can eat young leaves in salads and you can eat the flowers

0:27:470:27:50

and you can make meadowsweet fritters.

0:27:500:27:52

And this is one of the sources of aspirin before it was synthesised.

0:27:520:27:56

Well, that's one way to painless dieting!

0:27:580:28:01

Herbs have been used throughout history medicinally.

0:28:010:28:05

But there's been no difference between the medicinal and the culinary.

0:28:050:28:09

Back in 1608, physicians classified certain herbs for medicinal use.

0:28:100:28:16

The rest were consigned to the kitchen.

0:28:160:28:19

And since then, the healthy benefits of our herbs have been overlooked.

0:28:190:28:24

But don't fret - Jekka's going to remind us by whipping up

0:28:240:28:28

a healthy lunch for her hungry herby helpers, using some of her top picks

0:28:280:28:33

from around the farm.

0:28:330:28:35

Top of the menu will be bread rolls made with LOVEage.

0:28:380:28:42

Lovage is the most amazing plant.

0:28:430:28:45

It's been used for thousands of years.

0:28:450:28:48

The Romans used to use it as a deodorant.

0:28:480:28:51

Taste the seed, it is absolutely incredible.

0:28:510:28:55

-It tastes like...toasted celery taste.

-It is celery, isn't it?

0:28:550:28:58

Known as nature's antibiotic, monks loved to make lovage tea to cure...

0:28:590:29:04

flatulence!

0:29:040:29:06

Well, they wouldn't want to break the vow of silence, would they?

0:29:060:29:09

And it is an aphrodisiac, by the way. That's why it got the name lovage.

0:29:090:29:14

-My husband will be pleased!

-Yes.

0:29:140:29:17

And, for the health-enhancing main course,

0:29:170:29:21

a chicory and parsley salad.

0:29:210:29:23

Jekka's also planning a plum compote,

0:29:240:29:28

sweetened with a herb called sweet cicely.

0:29:280:29:31

And, for some extra zing, some orange-scented thyme,

0:29:310:29:34

which not only smells heavenly but is also an antioxidant,

0:29:340:29:39

a muscle relaxant, and an antiseptic traditionally used

0:29:390:29:43

to kill bacteria in food. Handy before the days of sell-by dates!

0:29:430:29:47

Jekka's first job is to give her wholemeal bread

0:29:480:29:53

some tender lovage care.

0:29:530:29:54

What I'm going to do, using a pestle and mortar, is crush the lovage seeds into a powder,

0:29:540:30:00

because if I put them whole into the bread it would taste far too strong.

0:30:000:30:06

The lovage is really good for your digestion.

0:30:060:30:09

It stimulates it and eases it, and this is a very coarse bread.

0:30:090:30:14

And now Jekka's juicy plum pud. Plums - my favourite!

0:30:160:30:20

This is a compote of seasonal fruit which I've combined in a very

0:30:200:30:24

light syrup, because the great thing is I'm using sweet cicely,

0:30:240:30:28

so you can cut down the amount of sugar that you actually need,

0:30:280:30:31

so this makes you feel good that you're having half the amount of sugar.

0:30:310:30:35

Sweet cicely's aniseed flavour made it a popular pick-me-up

0:30:360:30:39

in the Middle Ages when it was boiled to make sweets for children.

0:30:390:30:44

There's so much in our hedgerows, it used to nicknamed "wayside nibble".

0:30:440:30:50

Jekka bundles up the sweet cicely with a bit of string

0:30:500:30:53

so you can fish it out easily

0:30:530:30:55

once the compote has simmered for 20 minutes.

0:30:550:30:58

And while it does, Jekka prepares a salad to keep the doctor away!

0:30:580:31:02

The great thing about French parsley, like chicory,

0:31:020:31:06

is that it is really high in iron and really high in vitamin C,

0:31:060:31:11

and it's extremely good for stimulating appetite.

0:31:110:31:16

And it's also very good for cleansing things like your liver,

0:31:160:31:20

and your whole system.

0:31:200:31:22

So I'm combining that with the sour of the orange and the sweetness

0:31:220:31:27

and the sort of moreish-ness of the mozzarella.

0:31:270:31:30

A sprinkle of balsamic vinegar, a twist of salt

0:31:320:31:34

and a drizzle of oil and the detox feast is ready to serve up

0:31:340:31:38

to Jekka's hungry staff.

0:31:380:31:41

Is that an orange?

0:31:480:31:49

That's absolutely amazing.

0:31:490:31:53

Thanks to Jekka, these ancient British herbs

0:31:530:31:57

have found some new fans.

0:31:570:31:59

And the proof is in the pudding!

0:31:590:32:01

Mm!

0:32:060:32:08

Mm! I'll have what she's having!

0:32:080:32:10

You can taste the sweetness from the fruit

0:32:100:32:13

but not the sweetness of the sugar.

0:32:130:32:15

The sweet cicely, what it's done is it's absorbed

0:32:150:32:20

the tartness of the fruit, so you can actually...

0:32:200:32:23

The fruit tastes sweet even though it's not sweet.

0:32:230:32:26

You could serve that and actually not tell anyone that the sugar's

0:32:260:32:30

-missing, and I don't think anyone would notice the difference.

-No.

0:32:300:32:33

I was very pleased with the staff reaction to the food,

0:32:330:32:37

and it was lovely to give them a different perspective on the herbs

0:32:370:32:41

that they grow and make them realise that you can use thyme in a pudding.

0:32:410:32:47

And you know, today's meal was sort of really a culmination

0:32:470:32:54

of my life in herbs.

0:32:540:32:55

Herbs seem to exude that extra dimension to cooking

0:32:550:32:59

that you don't get with any other product.

0:32:590:33:02

Now, if we all follow Jekka's lead, we could seriously improve

0:33:050:33:09

the flavours of our food and our health.

0:33:090:33:11

What a winning combination!

0:33:110:33:13

Now, in the Best of British Kitchen,

0:33:240:33:26

we're going to be cooking up an old-fashioned culinary classic

0:33:260:33:30

using two ingredients guaranteed to help restore health...

0:33:300:33:33

white fish and grapes.

0:33:330:33:35

It's Sole Veronique,

0:33:390:33:41

and it was created by the most famous French chef ever,

0:33:410:33:45

Georges Auguste Escoffier, whilst he was at the Carlton Hotel in London.

0:33:450:33:50

He loved cooking for the English,

0:33:510:33:54

but he must have been a bit homesick for France,

0:33:540:33:56

so, when the French opera Veronique opened in London,

0:33:560:34:00

he created this dish in its honour.

0:34:000:34:03

And we think it's time to revive this simple but beautiful recipe.

0:34:030:34:08

Sole Veronique - the epitome of feel-good food.

0:34:090:34:13

It's one of those dishes that you want to recuperate with, isn't it?

0:34:130:34:17

It is. Well, the poached fish, it's easy to digest, it's delicious,

0:34:170:34:22

and grapes, everybody knows they make you feel better.

0:34:220:34:25

I mean, mate, Dover sole - it's not just the king of fish,

0:34:250:34:27

it's the absolute emperor.

0:34:270:34:30

And these are Dover sole fillets. They need skinning.

0:34:300:34:33

But look at that.

0:34:330:34:34

They're called Dover sole, not because they come from around Dover,

0:34:340:34:38

it's because that was the port they were traditionally brought into.

0:34:380:34:42

And they are splendiferous.

0:34:420:34:44

And the great thing about this recipe is that it is really

0:34:440:34:48

simple, but, honestly, it tastes amazing.

0:34:480:34:52

HE IMITATES OPERA SINGING

0:34:590:35:00

It's such an easy fish to skin. Look at that.

0:35:000:35:02

I could make myself a pair of mittens!

0:35:020:35:05

I tell you, interesting that you should say that.

0:35:050:35:08

You know, the ancient Greeks always thought that the sole would make

0:35:080:35:13

the perfect slipper for a sea nymph. How lovely's that?

0:35:130:35:18

I know. Your feet would stink of fish.

0:35:180:35:20

But you'd be all right if you were a sea nymph, wouldn't you?

0:35:200:35:24

If it's been filleted, to skin a fillet, put it skin-side down,

0:35:240:35:27

grab the tail, get your knife underneath it

0:35:270:35:30

and just put the knife down there and jiggle it to the end.

0:35:300:35:36

And of course, the price of this, the last thing we want,

0:35:360:35:39

is any of the meat to be left on the skin.

0:35:390:35:42

Look at that. That is beautiful. So what you do, very simply, is you fold them like that.

0:35:420:35:49

Look at that.

0:35:490:35:50

And the thing about this dish as a feel-good dish,

0:35:500:35:53

it's very easy to eat.

0:35:530:35:55

You know there's no bones, no skin, there's just lovely, sweet fish.

0:35:550:36:00

And you tuck into it, it digests easy. It's just so special.

0:36:000:36:05

-It's beautiful.

-And the grapes go together superbly with the fish.

0:36:050:36:10

Onto your gently-folded fish,

0:36:100:36:12

gently pour a small glass of vermouth,

0:36:120:36:16

and 200ml of good quality fish stock.

0:36:160:36:19

And I'm going to dot with butter.

0:36:200:36:22

And a very large mutant bay leaf.

0:36:220:36:24

-That is a whopper.

-It is.

0:36:260:36:28

-I've got a couple of Escoffier cook books at home.

-Yes?

0:36:280:36:31

And his recipes are really very good.

0:36:310:36:34

Escoffier... You think of French food as being loaded

0:36:340:36:37

with cream and brandy. Escoffier's wasn't.

0:36:370:36:40

It was all kind of like reductions and stocks.

0:36:400:36:43

It really was quite light food.

0:36:430:36:45

But a bit like this dish, you waste no flavour,

0:36:450:36:47

cos the vermouth,

0:36:470:36:49

the fish sauce and to some extent the butter

0:36:490:36:52

and you're going to get that broth out of the Dover sole.

0:36:520:36:55

That goes with the cream and with the grapes

0:36:550:36:58

and makes the most wonderful, well, Dover sole sauce.

0:36:580:37:01

Cover the fish with buttered tinfoil,

0:37:020:37:04

and pop into a preheated oven at 180 degrees Celsius,

0:37:040:37:08

or 160 degrees for a fan oven, and cook for 15 to 20 minutes.

0:37:080:37:13

It's quite a pertinent dish, this, for me.

0:37:150:37:17

-We're talking about feel-good food or comfort food...

-Yes.

0:37:170:37:21

..or food for somebody when they're poorly.

0:37:210:37:23

It was one of the first dishes I ever saw cooked by my father.

0:37:230:37:26

My mother had multiple sclerosis. She was an invalid. She was disabled.

0:37:260:37:30

He had to retire from work early.

0:37:300:37:32

He got the cook book out and he saw this Sole Veronique

0:37:320:37:35

and he went to cook it for my mam.

0:37:350:37:38

I remember watching him, a fella that had been in industry for 40 years,

0:37:380:37:41

trying to seed grapes and I wondered, "What are you doing, Father?"

0:37:410:37:44

We didn't have any sole.

0:37:440:37:46

It was beyond our budget and basically beyond our access.

0:37:460:37:49

So he'd been out and he'd caught half a dozen plaice.

0:37:490:37:52

In those days, big orange spots,

0:37:520:37:55

so he made a Plaice Veronique.

0:37:550:37:57

Didn't have vermouth, probably wouldn't know what it was,

0:37:570:38:00

so he'd used sherry and a bit of chicken stock.

0:38:000:38:03

But my dad was cooking grapes but it was for my mother.

0:38:030:38:06

It was at that time I thought, that's love. Do you know what I mean?

0:38:060:38:10

Definitely. That's the great thing about feel-good food, isn't it?

0:38:100:38:13

-Yep.

-It is about love and all those emotions that are attached to food.

0:38:130:38:18

Halve the grapes and deseed them,

0:38:200:38:22

unless you're able to get seedless grapes like we did.

0:38:220:38:26

What shall we serve this with?

0:38:260:38:28

It should be something equally clean and comfy.

0:38:280:38:31

-Potatoes. New potatoes.

-New potatoes.

-Lovely.

0:38:310:38:34

-Asparagus spears?

-Could do, yeah.

0:38:340:38:37

-That would be nice, wouldn't it?

-Yeah.

0:38:370:38:39

-Oh!

-Yes!

0:38:390:38:41

When the fish is done, remove it onto a plate

0:38:410:38:43

and cover it in tinfoil to keep warm.

0:38:430:38:46

That's just pure goodness.

0:38:460:38:49

No mystery, no skin,

0:38:490:38:53

no surprises, no bones,

0:38:530:38:54

just abject yum factor.

0:38:540:38:58

Now pour the cooking liquor, all that lovely fish stock, vermouth

0:38:590:39:03

and buttery juices into a pan.

0:39:030:39:06

When you've got stock like this, it's a good tip to do it in a frying pan.

0:39:060:39:10

Because of the surface area, basically, it'll go down quickly.

0:39:100:39:13

'We need the stock to reduce by half.

0:39:130:39:15

'It's a beautiful thing to watch, you know. And you never know,

0:39:150:39:21

'if we stare into it long enough, we might become as refined as Sole Veronique.'

0:39:210:39:24

IN POSH VOICE: I feel that Sole Veronique... It's a fine, classic dish

0:39:280:39:32

but its flavours, they're not overpowering, it's simple,

0:39:320:39:36

it's classical, and the flavours...

0:39:360:39:38

They enhance the Dover sole without overpowering it

0:39:380:39:43

or strangling it.

0:39:430:39:44

In fact, I would say, it's a perfect balance.

0:39:440:39:48

Good, I'm chuffed for you(!)

0:39:510:39:53

That's reduced by about half.

0:39:560:39:59

-Looking nice, eh?

-Lovely.

0:39:590:40:00

I'm just stirring in some double cream.

0:40:000:40:02

This strictly speaking isn't Escoffier,

0:40:020:40:04

it's like our little input.

0:40:040:40:06

A little bit of tarragon chopped up in the sauce is really nice.

0:40:060:40:10

So, Mr Escoffier, I'm dead sorry...

0:40:130:40:17

but we're having it.

0:40:170:40:19

-Tarragon's lovely with fish, isn't it?

-Beautiful.

0:40:190:40:21

I would say there's a scant teaspoon here.

0:40:210:40:24

-Put that in there.

-And then...

0:40:240:40:26

..we add our grapes.

0:40:270:40:29

And we just cook those for about a minute in the sauce

0:40:290:40:32

and that's going to release the sugars in the grapes.

0:40:320:40:36

-Check for seasoning now?

-Absolutely.

0:40:360:40:38

That's amazing.

0:40:390:40:42

It is so good.

0:40:420:40:43

Escoffier, God love him. That is beautiful.

0:40:430:40:46

-I'd forgotten how nice it is.

-Yeah.

0:40:460:40:49

Wouldn't it be vulgar to have black speckles in that sauce?

0:40:490:40:52

It would be wrong.

0:40:520:40:53

(WHISPERS) White pepper!

0:40:530:40:55

-That's epic.

-That is Gothic.

0:40:560:40:59

-The sauce is beautiful.

-Brilliant.

-The fish is done.

-Let's plate up.

0:40:590:41:02

I've just got some little potatoes and asparagus here.

0:41:020:41:05

-I think centre stage, do you?

-Without a doubt.

0:41:120:41:15

Absolutely superb.

0:41:150:41:16

Over the top.

0:41:170:41:19

I want some of those.

0:41:210:41:22

Look at that.

0:41:220:41:24

Now, look at that plate of food.

0:41:280:41:30

If you deliver that to somebody who's in their bed

0:41:300:41:33

or a bit poorly sat in their chair,

0:41:330:41:36

that's going to make you feel better straight away.

0:41:360:41:40

That instant emotion of, "That looks great."

0:41:400:41:43

That plate of food would lift the most morose of spirits.

0:41:440:41:48

-It would.

-It would make the languid dance with joy.

-It would!

0:41:480:41:53

-It would make the apathetic want to do stuff.

-Yep.

0:41:530:41:56

-It's positivity on a plate.

-Can I...?

0:41:560:42:00

It feels so good that you should.

0:42:000:42:04

Mmmm.

0:42:060:42:07

Oh, yeah.

0:42:080:42:09

Our Sole Veronique, whoever Veronique was,

0:42:090:42:13

she lives on, immortal on a plate.

0:42:130:42:16

Mmmm, what's so lovely is the grape

0:42:170:42:21

with the fish just cuts through that buttery, creamy sauce just enough.

0:42:210:42:28

You're dead right, mate. It works perfectly well.

0:42:280:42:30

It would work with plaice and if you're a bit skint,

0:42:300:42:33

it would liven up a piece of haddock as well.

0:42:330:42:36

Don't get Dover sole every day of the week!

0:42:360:42:39

So, whether we're overworked, or under the weather,

0:42:490:42:52

food that makes us feel good is vital to a happy

0:42:520:42:56

and healthy life.

0:42:560:42:57

In the British Isles, we have some of the best recipes

0:42:570:43:00

and restorative ingredients on the planet.

0:43:000:43:03

From the soothing comfort of chicken noodle soup,

0:43:030:43:06

to our historic herbal remedies and traditional non-alcoholic brews,

0:43:060:43:11

there's a feel-good food or drink for every occasion.

0:43:110:43:15

Visit...

0:43:150:43:16

..to discover some amazing facts about the history of food...

0:43:200:43:24

And to find out how to cook up the recipes in today's show.

0:43:240:43:28

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:470:43:50

E-mail [email protected]

0:43:500:43:53

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