The Big Day Home Comforts at Christmas


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The heart of my home is the kitchen.

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And at this time of the year, it's the perfect place to gather

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and celebrate the festive season.

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For me, Christmas is all about rustling up some fantastic food.

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And eating it in the company of my favourite people.

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These are the dishes that I cook

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when I want to spread a little bit of cheer.

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These are my Christmas Home Comforts.

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Christmas Day may be the highlight of the holidays,

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but all that pressure in the kitchen can definitely put

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a dampener on your celebrations.

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But don't panic, I've got all the recipes you'll need,

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together with some fantastic tips, to make the day go off without a hitch.

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Today I'm adding some seasonal fire to a classic starter.

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Now treat this like rocket fuel.

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It's everything you want for a lovely Christmassy edge.

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Settling creative differences with my Michelin-starred mate,

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Paul Ainsworth.

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-Do you want some more?

-Absolutely, it's my house now.

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THEY LAUGH

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Cheers, everybody.

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And discovering that there's more to Christmas dinner than I thought.

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I've learnt a new dish today - chocolate and Yorkshire pudding.

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ALL LAUGH

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But if you want the day to go well, you need to start it well,

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with something that's easy to prepare and bursting with flavour.

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And this is my favourite way to kick off the celebrations.

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Right, well, the big day's arrived. You want something really nice

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and simple for breakfast.

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And rather than do a full English breakfast and fill everybody up -

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cos you really want them to eat that lovely Christmas lunch -

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this is a great alternative and it's using waffles as the base.

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It's a simple recipe that you can incorporate

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tonnes of different flavours in.

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And I'm going to do this with smoked salmon.

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You want something luxurious, but you want something not too heavy,

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because you want to enjoy your lunch later on.

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The first job is to make the waffle batter.

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Mix 250g of plain flour with about 200ml of milk,

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three eggs,

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a pinch of baking powder and salt.

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And then we grab some melted butter,

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so you just want about 100g of butter that we just melt in a pan.

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While it's on the hob, add around 200ml of milk to the batter mix,

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followed by the butter.

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And don't go using half-fat ingredients,

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this is a Christmas recipe.

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Now if you want to turn this into a sweet batter,

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you would just put in a little bit of sugar,

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but this is where you can add whatever you want.

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I'm just going to add a touch of chives to this,

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but you could of course add a little bit of cooked bacon,

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even some chopped smoked salmon.

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I'm roughly chopping three tablespoons of the herb.

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Once mixed in, the batter's ready to go into the waffle iron,

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and this is the fun bit.

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I just want a tiny little bit of butter in each one,

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and all we do is just pour the waffle mixture in.

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Now, it's got baking powder in so they will actually puff up

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a little bit, so try not to overfill...

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with mixture.

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We just shut the lid, like that.

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The waffles take around four to five minutes

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and while they're cooking,

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you can get on with poaching your eggs.

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You start this by bringing a pan of water to the boil.

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Drop some salt in there

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and then you've got some vinegar.

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So whisk up the water so you can get a nice little vortex.

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Swirling the water like this stops the eggs breaking up.

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Just as well because you really don't want to waste these.

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And I'm going to use duck eggs.

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I love duck eggs.

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You could do this with some hen's eggs,

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but I think duck eggs work a treat with this.

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When your eggs go in, turn down the heat and let them

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poach for three to four minutes.

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In that time, heat some butter into a pan,

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and when it bubbles, add a little greenery.

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I've just got some picked baby spinach.

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Tiny bit of salt.

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Little bit of black pepper and we're just going to wilt this down.

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Soon as it hits the pan, you take it off the heat

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and it basically keeps that nice colour.

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And if you keep the colour, of course, you keep the flavour.

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Just perfect.

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This is really just fancy egg on toast.

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I pile the wilted spinach, slices of salmon and poached egg

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onto the waffle.

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But to make it extra special, I also add a touch of creme fraiche.

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And all you do is grab some leftover bits of chives...

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..chop them up, put the chives into the creme fraiche...

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..and all you want is a dollop...

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..of that over the top.

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And there you have it - breakfast for a champion.

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It's delicious. It's really simple, but it's really luxurious.

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You've got the nice warm waffles, you've got the wilted spinach and

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that delicious smoked salmon, and not forgetting the amazing duck egg.

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As you basically crack open the egg yolk, you get this lovely

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sauce that makes it really special for a Christmas morning.

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And above all else,

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it's actually nice and light.

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Because you know what's coming.

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A big roast.

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We all like to raise a glass at Christmas,

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but we don't have to stick to the same old tipples every year.

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Our festive food reporter Annie Gray

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has gone to Austria for some alcohol inspiration.

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And she's found plenty of ideas

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in the amazing Christmas markets at Innsbruck.

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But she's also got a whiff of something special up in the Alps.

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I'm here in the village of Stans in Tyrol.

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It looks sleepy and quiet, only 150 households,

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but 50 of them are distillers.

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It's why it's known as the town of schnapps.

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I'm here to meet one family in order to find out

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about schnapps, Austria and Christmas.

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Schnapps is a brandy that can be made from all kinds of fruit.

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In the Tyrol, more than 4,000 people have a licence to distil it -

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not bad for a place that's barely bigger than Yorkshire.

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The Schimpfossl family take a real pride in their festive

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version of the spirit.

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Hallo, Angelika?

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'And I caught up with Angelika to find out about their juicy,

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'home-grown ingredient.'

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-So this is your orchard? Wow.

-Yes, yes.

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Tell me, what's special about these plums?

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Are they a particular variety?

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We say we have Genuss Region.

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It means in this region, the plants are very good.

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But it's special here.

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Because we are living in a village 1,035 metres high,

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we can have 25 degrees Celsius on the day

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and in the night it can go down, maybe five degrees.

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That's why the plums make sugar.

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And how important is the fruit for making schnapps?

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Can you make it with just anything that's lying around

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or does it have to be really good?

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Only what you put in, you can get out, so if you...

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if there is good fruit in, you can...good schnapps will come out.

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And it's popular here in Tyrol, especially at Christmas?

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Yes, it's very popular at Christmas, because it's the time when

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we produce the schnapps, because the fruits are ready in September

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and we produce the schnapps in the time before Christmas.

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It's very special to drink schnapps after very good meal.

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ANNIE LAUGHS

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-So it this a medicinal thing to have at Christmas?

-Yes.

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Before anyone can take a sip of the stomach-settling spirit,

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those plums have to be picked.

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The whole family helps with harvesting,

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then it's over to the master distiller,

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Angelika's husband, Josef.

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What we're doing here is making a mash.

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So in go the plums and then we're just going to add some yeast,

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and this is the base for our schnapps.

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Making the drink started as a hobby for Josef about 25 years ago.

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It's not exactly a money-spinner, but he loves it so much,

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he even takes time off work to do it.

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I don't blame him!

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What's not to like about playing with a giant mixer?

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I wish he'd give me a go on it.

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It smells like autumn.

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All the plums together giving off this incredible aroma,

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kind of like jam, but kind of not.

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The next step is to distil the seasonal spirit

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from the plummy jam.

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And as this is a proper cottage industry,

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Josef does it all in his front room.

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This gets more fascinating by the second.

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We're just adding the mash, that's the plums that we saw earlier,

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they've been waiting for two weeks with a bit of yeast.

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They go into this and then there's a wood fire underneath,

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which is heating up all of the plums so that the alcohol comes off

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and then it's distilled down into a bucket.

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There's no water added, it's all just pure fruit juice

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and this starts the process of making schnapps.

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You can see that the alcohol is being condensed right now

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and coming off into this bucket.

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And that's at about 45-50% alcohol.

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That's then taken off and redistilled,

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and by this point, the alcohol will be at 80%.

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And then it will be watered down to give us

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what we think of as drinking schnapps, around 40% alcohol.

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But there's more to this than science.

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Making schnapps is also an art.

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Distil it for too long and it reeks of hay,

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stop the process too soon and it tastes of garlic.

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So, getting the plummy, Christmassy flavour just right

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really is a job for an expert.

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Good schnapps needs a lot of things.

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You need to be able to judge when the fruit is ready.

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You need to be able to make the process happen properly.

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You need a real personal set of skills to be

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able to know that you've got a really good product.

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This is so brilliant. Schnapps brings the whole family together.

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I'm definitely going to have a bottle in my cupboard

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on Christmas Day.

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Like Annie, I love trying out new flavours at this time of year.

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But there are one or two traditional dishes that you just can't beat.

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I'm making a massive festive lunch for some special guests later.

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And I'm kicking the whole thing off with a classic starter.

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I'm going to create wonderful little pate. It's really simple,

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using chicken livers at its base.

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Now, you can use duck livers for this,

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it's entirely up to you which one of those two you use.

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First off, you'll need to cook the livers.

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But before they go in the oven, season them generously

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and add fresh herbs.

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I've got marjoram still growing way till

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sort of January, February, but if you haven't got this,

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you can just use some basil, you can use rosemary, bit of thyme,

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it's entirely up to you what herbs you want to put in here.

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Then a tiny bit of brandy...

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..over the top.

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And as I say a tiny bit,

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a little bit, it's a Christmas portion, isn't it, really?

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Smells pretty good, and just tuck the whole lot in the oven.

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Don't overcook them.

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If you overcook chicken livers, they instantly go bitter.

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To avoid the unpleasant taste,

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preheat your oven to 230 degrees Centigrade

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and put them in there for just four to five minutes.

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While they're cooking,

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I oil a terrine that I'm going to use as a mould for the pate.

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And just line this with Clingfilm.

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Well, I say just line it,

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but as we all know, Clingfilm is one

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thing almost guaranteed to slow you down in the kitchen.

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Still, Christmas recipes are worth making a special effort for.

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This has to be nice and sort of precise when you turn it out.

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So make sure you've got no air bubbles in there.

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When the livers are cooked, pop them whole into a blender

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and blitz to a fine puree.

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So, while the livers are still warm,

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you can throw in a decent amount of butter.

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In my book, a decent amount is 250g.

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With the motor running, add it a bit by bit to the pureed livers.

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Stop the blender and season well.

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Plenty of salt and pepper.

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Then just blitz again for a minute or two.

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Then you'll end up with this amazing mixture,

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this beautiful colour

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and when you pour it into the mould,

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you get this delicious pate.

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It really is that simple.

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Now this goes in the fridge to chill for half an hour,

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leaving me time to make my lovely seasonal chutney.

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This is the key to it - Bramley apples,

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one of the finest apples there is.

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And I've tried growing these in my garden here, failed miserably.

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So I've resorted to buying them, but there's one thing with these -

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you're guaranteed an amazing flavour.

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It doesn't work the same with eating apples.

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Peel and slice about 450g of the Bramleys.

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Then add 200g of light, soft, brown sugar to a dry pan.

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You get this on a high heat

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and get this caramelising.

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What this is going to do is speed up the process of making a chutney.

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I always like a little bit of fruit as well as the apples.

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You can use sultanas, I've got some nice apricots here.

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You can use dried figs, works really well also.

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When the sugar is caramelised, add the dried apricots

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along with two finely chopped shallots.

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Now, at this point, you can turn it down a bit

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and we can deglaze the pan with some vinegar.

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You can use malt vinegar, or I've got white wine vinegar.

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Or even, of course, a bit of cider vinegar will work as well.

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Now I can throw in the main ingredient -

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those lovely Bramley apples.

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To give it all a bit of winter warmth,

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I also add a teaspoon of ground cinnamon.

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And then ground cloves. Now treat this like rocket fuel.

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Cloves are so strong in flavour, so you only want a tiny, tiny amount.

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You start to get this amazing smell coming off this chutney.

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And a free facial.

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Once everything's in the pot, cook until the apples are tender.

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Then stir in chopped walnuts and season well.

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So you can just leave that

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to go cold.

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To make sure the pate doesn't discolour,

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I'm using readymade clarified butter,

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otherwise known as ghee.

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Now you can actually buy this from the supermarket.

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Indian cookery uses this all the time.

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Melt it down and pour that over the top of the set pate.

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And once you've put that butter over the top,

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you can make this about a week in advance, you can even freeze it.

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Once you get that nice and covered over the top of the pate,

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pop it in the fridge and leave it for a couple of hours.

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Because I'm a '70s kid, I'm serving this with Melba toast.

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To make it, I first grill good old-fashioned white, sliced bread

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on both sides.

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Then what you need - it's good to do it with a serrated knife -

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is you slice the bread in half...

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..through the middle like that.

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You then need to roll the slices,

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cut-side down, on a board to remove any loose bits of bread.

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What you end up with is sort of a thin, dry piece of bread,

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which is perfect for Melba toast.

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Just put it under the grill, it'll only take about 30 seconds.

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Keep your eye on it cos you definitely don't want it to burn.

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It works.

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Look at that!

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Melba toast.

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With everything else ready, the only thing left to do is de-mould

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the pate, then you've got a real Christmas cracker on your hands.

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Now the reason why I'm serving it on this,

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and on this piece of wooden board,

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is that this is actually my gran's old wooden chopping board.

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It's kind of a little homage to her.

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You've got a chicken liver pate

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with a lovely apple and walnut chutney

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and classic Melba toast.

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It's everything you want for a quick and easy starter at Christmas.

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All of it can be made in advance

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and it is one of those classic dishes.

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By adding those lovely winter spices, that touch of clove little

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bit of cinnamon,

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gives it that lovely Christmassy edge.

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This dish is a real reminder of my childhood.

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Another one is Christmas crackers.

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And do you know what? I still get a kick out of those old jokes.

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And food historian Ivan Day has been finding out

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when novelties like these first landed on our tables.

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Breaking open a novelty to discover a small gift, motto or riddle inside

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dates back to the Tudors and lasts through until the 18th century.

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They had a sweet course called a banqueting course,

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which consisted of edible sweets placed on the table

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for the delight of the guests.

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And the richer the host was, the more extravagant the gift.

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We know about bottles of perfume, diamond rings

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and other expensive items of jewellery,

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so when their guests broke them open,

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it enabled hosts to demonstrate to their friends

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that they could afford to enjoy such luxuries.

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And Ivan has been busy for weeks

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hiding surprises in his own festive novelties.

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Today, he's making his final treat, ready for the big day.

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I have a little book here

0:19:250:19:27

which is called A Queen's Delight,

0:19:270:19:29

the queen being Henrietta Maria,

0:19:290:19:32

who was Charles I's wife.

0:19:320:19:34

And these are allegedly recipes from her and I have one here,

0:19:340:19:39

which is to make artificial walnuts.

0:19:390:19:42

And that's the recipe that I'm going to use from the 17th century.

0:19:420:19:46

Ivan begins by mixing powdered sugar with water,

0:19:480:19:51

and a strange medieval binding material - gum tragacanth.

0:19:510:19:56

After kneading, it becomes smooth and white.

0:19:560:19:59

I've got here a little pot covered with silk,

0:20:000:20:05

which has been rubbed with almond oil and this is Tudor Clingfilm.

0:20:050:20:10

Having rested in Ivan's special airtight container for 24 hours,

0:20:120:20:16

the paste is ready for a splash of colour.

0:20:160:20:18

A very popular dye used by Tudor confectioners was something

0:20:200:20:26

called red sanders, from a tree, which grows in Indonesia.

0:20:260:20:30

And it gives this amazing brick red colour.

0:20:300:20:34

I pick some up on the paste and I knead it in.

0:20:340:20:38

And I'm going to pick up a little bit of cinnamon.

0:20:380:20:42

And I've also got some ginger,

0:20:420:20:44

which I'm going to also blend into the paste.

0:20:440:20:47

We're getting a colour now, which is

0:20:470:20:49

not that far off from the light brown of a walnut shell.

0:20:490:20:54

Illusion and deception were all part of the fun

0:20:540:20:57

and Ivan's 17th-century walnuts are tame compared to the

0:20:570:21:01

elaborate novelties created for royalty.

0:21:010:21:04

Mischievous sugar novelties like these

0:21:040:21:07

often featured on royal tables.

0:21:070:21:11

Henry VIII once presented Francis I of France with

0:21:110:21:15

a full sugar chess set and board.

0:21:150:21:19

His daughter, Elizabeth, at Christmas in 1561,

0:21:190:21:24

was given as a table centrepiece a scale sugar model

0:21:240:21:28

of Old St Paul's Cathedral.

0:21:280:21:32

That must have been quite a treat, even for a queen.

0:21:320:21:35

Before long, people lower down the ranks were enjoying sugar

0:21:350:21:38

surprises at Christmas too, and Ivan's been hiding gifts

0:21:380:21:42

and mottos inside his own designs.

0:21:420:21:45

So here we have a lovely selection of sugar sea shells,

0:21:450:21:50

artificial walnuts and other novelties.

0:21:500:21:54

There's a magnificent sugar egg

0:21:540:21:57

which has really caught my attention here.

0:21:570:22:00

So let's see what's there.

0:22:000:22:02

You have to crack it open...

0:22:020:22:04

Aha!

0:22:050:22:07

Amethyst and diamonds, my goodness me.

0:22:070:22:10

And of course, the other feature that's so important

0:22:100:22:14

in a Christmas cracker these days

0:22:140:22:16

are those corny old mottos and jokes,

0:22:160:22:19

so let's see what we have in this Tudor artificial walnut.

0:22:190:22:24

Do you know what it says? It says,

0:22:270:22:29

"There is no place like Home Comforts."

0:22:290:22:32

Now, all that sugar's got me thinking about how I'm going

0:22:370:22:40

to round off my own Christmas Day lunch.

0:22:400:22:43

I've decided to do something a bit different.

0:22:430:22:46

It's a dessert that's rich and festive,

0:22:460:22:49

and there's not a brandy flame in sight.

0:22:490:22:52

Now, to be honest, it's difficult to know what to do for dessert

0:22:520:22:55

on the big day, but for me, it has to be one thing,

0:22:550:22:58

and that's not Christmas pudding.

0:22:580:23:00

It's a prune and Armagnac tart - one of the finest desserts

0:23:000:23:04

and tastiest desserts you'll ever have,

0:23:040:23:07

because when it's made fresh, it can be absolutely delicious.

0:23:070:23:10

So, the first thing I'm going to do is soak these wonderful prunes,

0:23:100:23:13

Agen prunes.

0:23:130:23:16

You'll need to warm a syrup of Armagnac brandy,

0:23:160:23:18

water and sugar to soak them in.

0:23:180:23:20

Agen prunes come from the south west of France

0:23:220:23:25

and are just about the best you can get.

0:23:250:23:27

But you could make this dish with less fancy varieties.

0:23:270:23:31

Fantastic. We just leave those,

0:23:320:23:35

just to sit there and plump up and get full of flavour.

0:23:350:23:39

Think of this as a French version of the Bakewell tart.

0:23:390:23:43

The base is a sweet pastry made from plain flour, butter,

0:23:430:23:47

icing sugar and eggs.

0:23:470:23:49

What we're going to do is roll this out.

0:23:490:23:51

Now the key to pastry is to make sure the surface is cold,

0:23:510:23:54

that's why it's a good idea to use a metal surface

0:23:540:23:56

or even a bit of marble, to be honest.

0:23:560:23:58

I remember when I was a young nipper,

0:23:580:24:00

for Christmas, I was always into a bit of sugar work.

0:24:000:24:03

And I always wanted a sugar lamp.

0:24:030:24:05

And sugar lamps were a heat lamp over the top of a warming plate.

0:24:050:24:09

But being a Yorkshireman,

0:24:090:24:11

my dad was never going to spend 300 quid

0:24:110:24:14

on a heat lamp or a sugar lamp.

0:24:140:24:17

I ended up with a pig lamp and a bit of broken marble.

0:24:170:24:20

But it kind of worked.

0:24:200:24:21

In order to get this pastry to work,

0:24:230:24:25

you need to roll it out nice and thin,

0:24:250:24:28

and then use it to line a greased baking tray.

0:24:280:24:31

But don't trim the excess just yet.

0:24:310:24:33

That looks pretty good to me.

0:24:370:24:38

So once you get to this stage,

0:24:380:24:40

we take the entire lot and chill it.

0:24:400:24:42

And while the pastry case is in the fridge,

0:24:420:24:44

turn your attention back to the prunes.

0:24:440:24:47

Now, even after about sort of five minutes,

0:24:470:24:50

these will actually start to puff up,

0:24:500:24:53

which is exactly what we want.

0:24:530:24:55

And then what we need to do is to create almost like a puree.

0:24:550:24:59

And for that, what I need to do is just blend some of these prunes

0:24:590:25:03

with some of the liquid.

0:25:030:25:05

About half of them.

0:25:050:25:06

And what we end up with

0:25:170:25:19

is what the French call a jam.

0:25:190:25:21

You've got this combination of prunes and Armagnac,

0:25:210:25:24

and we can use that to line the base of the tart.

0:25:240:25:28

Now, the flavours remind me so much of my childhood

0:25:310:25:35

and this is one I have in the house all the time at Christmas time.

0:25:350:25:39

I just think it's so special and so simple to prepare as well.

0:25:390:25:43

So you've got that layer of the prunes.

0:25:430:25:46

Now, one thing you have to do with this as well

0:25:460:25:48

is keep this still nice and cold, so back into the fridge.

0:25:480:25:52

And then we can make our classic frangipane, that really light

0:25:530:25:56

filling that people know of when they're thinking of Bakewell tart.

0:25:560:26:01

Start by beating 100g of butter with the same amount of caster sugar.

0:26:010:26:06

Until it's white and fluffy.

0:26:080:26:09

Then mix in three eggs.

0:26:110:26:13

Now the key to this is add the eggs one at a time.

0:26:150:26:18

You mix this together.

0:26:190:26:21

Sometimes it'll actually start to split and separate.

0:26:230:26:27

Just keep persevering, the mixture will come together

0:26:270:26:30

and then we add another egg.

0:26:300:26:32

Now what you end up with is this very light,

0:26:350:26:38

kind of sponge mixture, I suppose,

0:26:380:26:40

but then we need to add the rest of the ingredients,

0:26:400:26:43

which are ground almonds and self-raising flour.

0:26:430:26:46

And for that, it's crucial that you measure them.

0:26:480:26:51

What you need is 50g of flour and 125g of ground almonds,

0:26:520:26:57

and another splash of Armagnac.

0:26:570:26:59

Then it's just a matter of mixing the whole lot together gently

0:26:590:27:02

and using it to fill your tart.

0:27:020:27:05

Now, the reason I like this, particularly for Christmas Day,

0:27:050:27:09

is that you can make this on Christmas Eve.

0:27:090:27:13

In fact, you can do this the day before Christmas Eve as well.

0:27:130:27:16

You don't have to cook it until Christmas Day,

0:27:160:27:19

you can just leave it in the fridge until you need it.

0:27:190:27:22

Spread the almond mixture evenly

0:27:230:27:26

and then gently place the Armagnac-soaked prunes on the top.

0:27:260:27:30

Making a Christmas pattern with them is optional.

0:27:300:27:33

I'm not into sort of fancy sort of stuff,

0:27:350:27:38

just randomly chuck them on.

0:27:380:27:40

Then grab some whole almonds. It's a good idea to use whole

0:27:410:27:44

almonds and not flaked almonds because the flaked ones tend to burn.

0:27:440:27:48

What you do is just chuck them on with finesse.

0:27:480:27:51

Like that.

0:27:530:27:55

Decoration done.

0:27:550:27:56

The tart can now go into an oven,

0:27:560:27:58

preheated to 190 degrees Centigrade for 25 to 35 minutes.

0:27:580:28:04

While it's baking, put the pruney Armagnac syrup back onto the heat.

0:28:040:28:09

So we bring it to the boil

0:28:090:28:11

and rapidly cook this for about five to ten minutes.

0:28:110:28:14

And after that, that sugars will start to thicken up the liquid,

0:28:140:28:18

which will make a nice glaze.

0:28:180:28:20

When the tart comes out of the oven, cut off the excess pastry.

0:28:210:28:25

To turn it out, I put a bowl under the tin.

0:28:280:28:30

And then for a final touch of seasonal excess,

0:28:320:28:34

I whip cream with a splash of

0:28:340:28:37

what else but Armagnac.

0:28:370:28:39

You could do this with pouring cream,

0:28:400:28:42

you could do it with ice cream.

0:28:420:28:43

If you want it to be a bit fancy,

0:28:430:28:45

you could do it with a creme anglais or a custard, really.

0:28:450:28:47

But for me, I like the simplicity of this.

0:28:470:28:50

And let's face it,

0:28:500:28:51

on Christmas Day, we just want it nice and simple.

0:28:510:28:55

And of course, it would be rude to serve it to anybody without

0:28:550:28:58

some quality control. Well, that's my excuse.

0:28:580:29:01

Now you have to take my word for it when I say,

0:29:010:29:04

this is one of the best desserts you can ever make.

0:29:040:29:07

If it's made properly.

0:29:070:29:09

So just a dollop of the cream as well to go with it.

0:29:130:29:17

If there was Christmas on a plate for me, this would be it.

0:29:240:29:27

This festive dessert is part of a meal I'm cooking

0:29:300:29:32

for eight people later.

0:29:320:29:34

I want Ralph to look his best for the occasion.

0:29:340:29:36

But his costume is going down about as well as a turkey dinner did

0:29:400:29:43

for Ian and Brenda Waterman a few years ago.

0:29:430:29:46

But instead of accepting their Christmas Day disaster,

0:29:460:29:49

they decided to take radical action.

0:29:490:29:52

Essentially, it goes back about 12 years when we were having

0:29:520:29:55

a Christmas lunch and I said to Brenda, "Not a bad turkey."

0:29:550:30:00

And she said, "Well, it should be pretty good for the price I paid."

0:30:000:30:04

She told me what she paid for it and I nearly went through the roof.

0:30:040:30:08

Come on!

0:30:100:30:11

Once he calmed down,

0:30:110:30:13

Ian decided they could rear better turkeys themselves

0:30:130:30:16

and he knew exactly what type of bird they needed.

0:30:160:30:20

I was adamant that I wanted the heritage variety,

0:30:200:30:23

a traditional variety.

0:30:230:30:24

And by that I mean a turkey that can mate naturally,

0:30:240:30:29

can incubate and rear its own young, so we started looking around.

0:30:290:30:33

But that search proved to be long and difficult,

0:30:360:30:40

because these turkeys are rarer than hen's teeth.

0:30:400:30:43

All of the nine varieties that we have

0:30:450:30:47

are on the Rare Breed Survival Trust endangered list.

0:30:470:30:51

But some are rarer than others, in particular, the Buffs.

0:30:510:30:55

They're a variety - small, bit diminutive bird,

0:30:550:30:59

very nice nature, very good flavour, easy to keep.

0:30:590:31:03

We have the Lavender. They're a good converter of feed to meat.

0:31:030:31:08

We have Crollwitzers, who are not good on the table,

0:31:080:31:13

but they're beautiful for ornament.

0:31:130:31:15

Some other birds have talents that stretch

0:31:150:31:17

far beyond the Christmas kitchen.

0:31:170:31:19

Turkeys, they're tremendous characters, no doubt about that.

0:31:190:31:23

They can make very good pets.

0:31:230:31:25

But sentiment aside, Ian and Brenda are running a business.

0:31:300:31:34

And every year, customers like Peter

0:31:350:31:37

buy their turkeys to rear at home during the run up to Christmas.

0:31:370:31:41

That's it.

0:31:410:31:43

That'll fatten up nicely up for Christmas.

0:31:430:31:45

It'll do lovely, I should think.

0:31:450:31:47

And how were the birds you had last year?

0:31:470:31:49

They did very well indeed. The family members had them

0:31:490:31:52

and they were happy, you know, really enjoyed the taste

0:31:520:31:55

and flavour of the turkeys.

0:31:550:31:57

The couple are at their busiest in the spring and summer,

0:31:590:32:01

when chicks hatch and there are young to look after.

0:32:010:32:05

By late December they can relax, even if the turkeys can't.

0:32:050:32:09

On Christmas Day, we find it quite amusing coming out and giving them

0:32:090:32:13

some treats, thinking,

0:32:130:32:15

"You made it this year, let's hope you do next!"

0:32:150:32:18

With a steady supply of free-range birds roaming outside,

0:32:190:32:23

you can guarantee the Waterman's lay on one mean Christmas lunch.

0:32:230:32:27

Cheers. Merry Christmas.

0:32:270:32:29

They're a niche bird,

0:32:300:32:32

but they're a delightful bird to have on the table.

0:32:320:32:35

They're unique and we should hone in on that.

0:32:350:32:39

I think it's only by creating a specialist market for them

0:32:390:32:44

that we can sustain them long term.

0:32:440:32:47

It's delicious. It's full of flavour and it's got a body to it.

0:32:470:32:51

It's not the least bit watery.

0:32:510:32:53

Really nice.

0:32:530:32:54

Clearly the key to a happy Christmas dinner table

0:32:550:32:58

is a tasty home-reared bird.

0:32:580:33:00

And Ian believes we could all enjoy the benefits of a DIY turkey.

0:33:000:33:05

I would love to think that other people would do just as we've done.

0:33:050:33:09

You could do it in the back garden.

0:33:090:33:11

You could have a couple of turkeys and you could enjoy

0:33:110:33:14

a brilliant Christmas dinner that you produced yourself.

0:33:140:33:17

Well, I'm not sure how impressed Ralph would be

0:33:210:33:24

if I started breeding turkeys in the back garden.

0:33:240:33:26

Hello, Ralph. How are you?

0:33:260:33:28

But luckily, he does approve of my Michelin-starred buddy,

0:33:280:33:31

Paul Ainsworth.

0:33:310:33:32

-Hello, mate.

-How you doing? How are you?

-You good?

0:33:350:33:37

-Yeah. Good to see you.

-Come on in.

-Excellent.

0:33:370:33:40

He's here to help me make my favourite Christmas meal.

0:33:400:33:44

We've been friends for years and today I'm hosting a festive

0:33:440:33:47

blow-out for him and his family, who are all coming over later.

0:33:470:33:50

-I thought we'd do classic roast dinner.

-Yeah.

0:33:510:33:54

I thought we'd do roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes

0:33:540:33:57

you've got to have. And we'll do a selection of veg because

0:33:570:34:00

that's what Christmas is about, a classic roast dinner.

0:34:000:34:02

Definitely. Nice to have a change as well, some nice beef.

0:34:020:34:04

So are you a traditional sort of thing? Would you do turkey or not?

0:34:040:34:08

No, I'd do beef. Do beef, maybe a nice shoulder of lamb,

0:34:080:34:11

but a traditional roast, keep it nice and simple.

0:34:110:34:13

I'm all for an easy life too.

0:34:130:34:15

For our Christmas lunch, I'm using a beautiful side of sirloin.

0:34:150:34:19

The key to this is sealing the meat in a pan before it

0:34:190:34:22

goes into the oven.

0:34:220:34:23

A straightforward job

0:34:230:34:25

unless you've got someone like Paul in your kitchen.

0:34:250:34:29

Right, so the pan's on full whack, so I'll let you season the beef.

0:34:290:34:32

-Absolutely.

-There you go.

0:34:320:34:34

So I just score it as well, just across.

0:34:350:34:37

You can't resist, can you?

0:34:370:34:39

These Michelin-star boys. I would just stick it straight in the pan!

0:34:390:34:42

It just lets it in, doesn't it?

0:34:420:34:43

Oh, that's to get the seasoning in?

0:34:430:34:45

Yeah, that's it, that's it.

0:34:450:34:47

Now you say that Christmas is sort of traditional for you really.

0:34:470:34:50

Christmas is very special to my mum.

0:34:500:34:52

That's, like, the one time of year you don't mess around with.

0:34:520:34:55

I remember once me and my sister went out on Christmas Eve,

0:34:550:34:58

we weren't too good Christmas Day, never again.

0:34:580:35:01

Gosh, she was not impressed.

0:35:010:35:03

When it's well and truly seasoned,

0:35:040:35:06

the meat goes into a very hot pan with 25g of dripping.

0:35:060:35:10

So once it goes in, don't move it.

0:35:100:35:11

Too many people start fiddling around.

0:35:110:35:13

And then the water comes out of the meat and then it just starts

0:35:130:35:16

to boil and it's no good. It's like you said, just relax.

0:35:160:35:18

This should be stress-free.

0:35:180:35:20

It's in the preparation, isn't it?

0:35:200:35:21

Just do that prep and then make the day quite simple

0:35:210:35:24

and enjoy it with the guests.

0:35:240:35:26

I'm going to get the potatoes on as well.

0:35:260:35:28

Now these are King Edwards, which I think are the best.

0:35:280:35:31

Cut them up into decent sized pieces,

0:35:310:35:33

-I don't like roast potatoes that are too small.

-No.

0:35:330:35:35

The potatoes should only take a few minutes to parboil

0:35:350:35:38

in a pan of salted water.

0:35:380:35:40

I'm giving myself the simpler jobs,

0:35:400:35:42

because Paul loves the more complicated stuff.

0:35:420:35:45

-Oh, dear.

-Cos you were classically trained though, weren't you, really?

0:35:450:35:48

-Yeah, I was.

-You were an ex-Gordon Ramsay?

0:35:480:35:50

Yeah, yeah, Gary Rhodes.

0:35:500:35:52

-Marcus Wareing.

-So, was food in your blood then? Or...?

0:35:520:35:55

Yes, definitely. I think I was very lucky.

0:35:550:35:57

I grew up in... My mum and dad own a bed and breakfast in Southampton.

0:35:570:36:00

Dad cooked every night. He cooked all the breakfasts in the morning,

0:36:000:36:04

and my mum would cook at weekends.

0:36:040:36:05

I was very lucky to grow up in a household where everyone cooked.

0:36:050:36:09

Once the joint is sealed all over, put it into an oven,

0:36:100:36:13

preheated to 200 degrees Centigrade.

0:36:130:36:17

I like my beef medium rare, which takes about 50 minutes.

0:36:170:36:20

And now it's time to sort out the spuds.

0:36:200:36:23

Right, what I want you to do with the tray,

0:36:230:36:25

-just put a few pieces of dripping in it.

-Absolutely, yeah.

0:36:250:36:28

And I'm going to get the potatoes.

0:36:280:36:30

Drain them off.

0:36:300:36:31

Shake the pan like that, just to loosen them up a bit.

0:36:320:36:35

Just break the edges of the potatoes, really, more than anything else.

0:36:350:36:39

-What are you doing?

-Do you want some more?

-Absolutely.

0:36:400:36:43

Oh, is there not enough in there?

0:36:430:36:44

THEY CHUCKLE

0:36:440:36:46

-It's my house now.

-Yeah, yeah.

-Although we're cooking for your lot.

0:36:460:36:49

Into the tray.

0:36:500:36:52

-Pinch of salt.

-Yeah.

0:36:520:36:54

No grief whatsoever.

0:36:540:36:57

-In the oven.

-In the oven.

0:36:570:36:59

Doing the meat and spuds is the easy part on Christmas Day.

0:36:590:37:02

It's the endless veg preparation that most people find a bit nerve-racking.

0:37:020:37:07

Not that that's a problem for me this year.

0:37:070:37:10

I'll let you break this up into little florets

0:37:100:37:13

and you can be as chef-y as you want.

0:37:130:37:16

-Yeah.

-All right?

0:37:160:37:18

What was Christmas like for you growing up as a kid?

0:37:180:37:20

It was literally about the lovely meal,

0:37:200:37:23

all the family being together and sort of like that,

0:37:230:37:26

which I think's nice. I think ultimately that's what it's about.

0:37:260:37:29

Don't you want the rest of this cauliflower or something?

0:37:290:37:31

-Oh, we want all of it, do we?

-Yeah, of course we do.

-Yeah, OK.

0:37:310:37:34

Look at how many people you've got, we've got eight of us, isn't there?

0:37:340:37:37

No matter how many guests you have, the key to making your Christmas veg

0:37:370:37:41

is to cook them one after another in the same pot.

0:37:410:37:45

But to avoid the cauliflower getting discoloured by the carrots,

0:37:450:37:48

cook it first.

0:37:480:37:51

The great thing about this is all the veg,

0:37:510:37:53

I say all the white veg, yeah, all the veg is perfectly cooked.

0:37:530:37:56

That's what we're looking for, so while I cook this lot,

0:37:560:37:59

I'll leave you to prepare the next batch, which can be the beans.

0:37:590:38:03

-The beans, yeah.

-So top and tail the beans

0:38:030:38:05

and then we're going to basically do the carrots.

0:38:050:38:07

Do you want them both ends? I leave this end on.

0:38:070:38:10

I thought you would do that being a Yorkshireman, to be honest,

0:38:100:38:13

-you top and tail?

-No, we just leave the whole things.

0:38:130:38:15

THEY LAUGH

0:38:150:38:17

Now do you have traditions at Christmas or...?

0:38:170:38:20

Mum has her traditions.

0:38:200:38:21

So you wake up, the Christmas albums are on, loud.

0:38:210:38:24

-The Christmas albums are on?

-Yeah, music is a huge part of it.

0:38:240:38:28

Huge, huge part of it.

0:38:280:38:30

See, we had an organ.

0:38:300:38:32

Nobody could play it, apart from my granddad

0:38:320:38:34

who used to get quite drunk and thought he was

0:38:340:38:37

basically Liberace on the piano.

0:38:370:38:39

How did you do the whole Father Christmas, mince pies,

0:38:390:38:42

milk and all that?

0:38:420:38:43

That for me was just, that sticks in my mind so much.

0:38:430:38:46

I couldn't believe when I saw it empty, it was just...

0:38:460:38:49

-Yeah, he'd been.

-Fascinating. Yeah, he'd been.

0:38:490:38:51

He started drinking a pint of lager at one stage as well.

0:38:510:38:54

I don't remember Father Christmas having that much fun in our house.

0:38:550:38:59

Anyway, the cauliflower will take three to four minutes,

0:39:000:39:03

then plunge it into iced water to stop it cooking.

0:39:030:39:07

After that, it's just a matter of repeating the process with

0:39:070:39:10

the other veg, ending with the carrots.

0:39:100:39:12

My mum would always keep that water and we'd have a ham on Boxing Day

0:39:150:39:19

and she'd put that in for the stock and that made amazing soup.

0:39:190:39:22

Shall we just put it in a container

0:39:220:39:23

and give her it as a Christmas present?

0:39:230:39:25

I think she'd appreciate that, yeah.

0:39:250:39:27

He's going to be in trouble when his mum sees this.

0:39:270:39:29

Whatever you decide to do with the water,

0:39:290:39:32

the beauty of cooking your veg like this

0:39:320:39:34

is you can prep them beforehand,

0:39:340:39:36

leaving plenty of time to get your gravy just right.

0:39:360:39:40

So, I'm going to get the sauce on for this one.

0:39:400:39:43

We've got the residual sort of gubbins, as I call it,

0:39:430:39:46

from the beef.

0:39:460:39:47

I add 200ml of red wine to the pot and cook it

0:39:470:39:50

until it's reduced by half.

0:39:500:39:52

And then we're going to take some of this beef stock.

0:39:520:39:54

This is just bought in beef stock, you can buy this. Yeah.

0:39:540:39:57

But they're great quality now, aren't they?

0:39:570:39:59

-I think it's fantastic stuff.

-I mean, look at the colour of that.

0:39:590:40:01

Use a litre of the stock and cook the whole lot

0:40:010:40:04

until it's reduced to a nice thick gravy.

0:40:040:40:06

Meanwhile, I'm going to let you, on your own,

0:40:080:40:11

let you loose in my kitchen to do the sprouts.

0:40:110:40:15

To do the sprouts? OK.

0:40:150:40:17

And surprise, surprise, Paul's making posh ones.

0:40:180:40:21

He starts by frying pieces of streaky bacon in a pan

0:40:210:40:24

with some dripping.

0:40:240:40:26

And then we've got the fun job of chopping 500g of sprouts.

0:40:260:40:30

That's... All this crisscrossing and stuff like that,

0:40:310:40:34

just kind of...just shred them nice and fine. It's just like cabbage.

0:40:340:40:38

For me, this is the one vegetable that you could just do

0:40:390:40:42

about ten minutes before serving.

0:40:420:40:44

-I've noticed how you started talking and stopped chopping.

-Chopping.

0:40:440:40:47

-You don't miss a trick you, do you?

-I don't.

0:40:470:40:50

I thought I'd get out of it.

0:40:500:40:52

No-one takes it easy in my kitchen.

0:40:520:40:54

When the bacon is crispy and golden, Paul adds the sprouts

0:40:540:40:57

and fries them for a couple of minutes.

0:40:570:40:59

A knob of butter will make it extra rich.

0:40:590:41:02

Then it's time to crack open a classic Christmas ingredient.

0:41:020:41:06

Now the two types of chestnuts you can buy

0:41:060:41:08

are obviously fresh or what they call sous vide,

0:41:080:41:11

and these are sous vide ones, much easier.

0:41:110:41:14

Now be careful when you're actually buying these as well

0:41:140:41:16

because they come whole, which it says whole,

0:41:160:41:19

but right next to it it'll have pureed.

0:41:190:41:22

There's two different types of puree - sweet and savoury.

0:41:220:41:25

'And you don't want to be cooking the sweet ones with your sprouts,

0:41:250:41:28

'believe me.

0:41:280:41:29

'About 250g of the savoury version works a treat though.'

0:41:290:41:33

I think they're good like this, actually, the sprouts.

0:41:340:41:37

-It just takes them to a different level.

-Yeah.

0:41:370:41:39

Finally, add a splash of water and stir fry for a minute or two.

0:41:390:41:43

With the sprouts done, the last job is to warm through the cooked veg.

0:41:430:41:48

It takes just 30 seconds in one pot of boiling water.

0:41:480:41:52

Then it's a matter of plating everything up.

0:41:520:41:55

Look at that!

0:41:550:41:56

Just as well, because Paul's family has arrived.

0:41:580:42:01

He'd better get a move on.

0:42:010:42:03

Hello! Come on in, come on in.

0:42:080:42:11

Here we go, guys.

0:42:120:42:13

Dig in.

0:42:150:42:16

There's nothing to beat good food with friends.

0:42:160:42:19

I just hope it gets the festive thumbs up from Paul's mum.

0:42:190:42:23

-Do you want a Yorkshire pudding? Mum?

-Not a massive one.

0:42:230:42:25

HE LAUGHS

0:42:250:42:28

Anyway, cheers, everybody.

0:42:280:42:30

-Merry Christmas.

-Cheers, everybody.

0:42:300:42:32

In my book, you just can't top a roast dinner at Christmas.

0:42:320:42:37

But by mixing traditional dishes with new flavours,

0:42:370:42:40

you can really make the big day go with a bang.

0:42:400:42:43

And with a little forward planning, you'll even be able to sit down

0:42:430:42:47

to enjoy the food yourself.

0:42:470:42:49

Well, now you know how to make Christmas stress-free.

0:42:490:42:52

And if you're worried, invite a chef over for dinner.

0:42:520:42:55

Well, I think that's a really good idea.

0:42:550:42:58

THEY LAUGH

0:42:580:43:00

You can find all the recipes from the series on...

0:43:000:43:03

Yes!

0:43:080:43:09

I've learnt a new dish today - chocolate and Yorkshire pudding.

0:43:110:43:14

ALL LAUGH

0:43:140:43:16

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