New Year's Knees Up Home Comforts at Christmas


New Year's Knees Up

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The heart of my home is the kitchen.

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And at this time of the year, it's the perfect place to gather

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and celebrate the festive season.

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-Merry Christmas.

-Cheers, everybody!

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For me, Christmas is all about rustling up some fantastic food.

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And eating it in the company of my favourite people.

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These are the dishes that I cook

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when I want to spread a little bit of cheer.

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These are my Christmas Home Comforts.

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If there is one night that is perfect

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for having a gang of friends round,

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it is New Year's Eve, so this evening, it's all back to mine.

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And when I am entertaining, these are the dishes

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that I like to cook to start my New Year off with a bang.

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So I am going to make a dessert guaranteed to make every guest drool.

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How good does that look?

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Annie Gray is certainly in the party mood,

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as she joins a boozy celebration in Austria.

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Please, two bottles.

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And back here, I invite one of my friends to make himself at home.

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So, welcome to the Charley Boorman Cooking Show.

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RECORD SCRATCHES

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Hang on - not that much at home!

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I'm starting with a bite-sized bake

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and a simple nibble that are perfect for kicking off a party.

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I am going to make a really simple choux pastry,

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but fill it with full of some delicious smoked salmon mousse.

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Really simple to prepare, but there are keys to making a choux pastry

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work properly, and it is all about this first part.

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Put 125ml of water along with 50g of diced butter into a pan.

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Then slowly heat the water

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so the butter melts before it comes to the boil.

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If we boil this rapidly while waiting for the butter to melt,

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all that water is reducing, and it unbalances the recipe

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and your choux pastry doesn't rise - it's as simple as that.

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As soon as the butter does melt,

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add 75g of flour.

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Keep it on the heat and mix it all together well.

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You can tell when this is ready for two reasons.

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One - it will come together as a big lump.

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The other, and this is how I was taught -

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ever since I was a young kid I have been making this -

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but I was always taught to listen.

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That wasn't just at school,

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it was also for choux pastry.

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Listen.

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MIXTURE CRACKLES

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If it pops...it's ready.

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As soon as that happens, spread the mixture out

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on a nonstick mat for two to three minutes,

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allowing it to cool down.

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Then transfer everything into a mixing bowl.

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And then what you need to do is add the eggs, and to do this just put

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the machine on low at first,

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then pop one egg in at a time.

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If you put all the eggs in, the mixture separates and splits.

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Once the last of the eggs has gone in, crank it up for a final mix.

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And now it is time to pipe,

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which is all about confidence and a little practice.

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Let me show you.

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Press the nozzle in, stop, twist.

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Press the nozzle, stop, twist.

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This hand is squeezing, this hand is deciding where the mixture is going.

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It's as simple as that.

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But I like canapes that are... chunky, I suppose.

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That's the first thing people say about me when they see me, but...

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I actually think they should be almost little mini meals.

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So obviously don't make these too big,

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but they want to be a decent sort of size.

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Then press all the tops with your fingers, having dipped them in water.

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The main reason for this is the oven is quite hot,

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and the tops, the pointed part of it, will burn.

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Some more water sprinkled over the top

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will create extra steam while they're cooking,

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that all helps them to rise.

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After that, pop them in the oven for 15 minutes,

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which is just enough time to rustle up a super-simple canape.

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And it uses feta, but really good quality feta.

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Start by chopping up some watermelon.

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And then do the same with the cheese.

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Next, layer them up and place onto a serving plate.

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And we are going to top this with some Greek basil.

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It is kind of like a fragrant basil, if that makes sense.

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And we are just going to put a little sprig on each one.

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And finally, only got to finish this with one thing.

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And that is vinegar.

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And it is not malt vinegar, don't ruin it,

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it is sherry vinegar.

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Sherry vinegar has got a fabulous, fabulous taste,

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but you only want a tiny, tiny bit.

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I like to put it on to the platter so it doesn't discolour the cheese.

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And that is your really quick and simple canape done.

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The choux buns are now cooked,

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so take them out of the oven and let them cool down

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while making the filling.

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I start this by pureeing some smoked salmon in a blender.

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Then I add some cream cheese...

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creme fraiche...

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and a squeeze of lemon.

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Good grind of black pepper.

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You won't want any salt,

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because of the smoked salmon, and give it another blitz.

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And what you end up with is a simple smoked salmon mousse, like that.

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By now, the choux buns have cooled down,

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so I can make holes in the bottom where the filling will go.

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The great thing about choux pastry is you can make this

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and freeze it and then when anybody comes round, you can just

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grab them out of the freezer and fill them.

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They defrost in minutes.

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Pop the salmon mousse into a piping bag and then you can start filling.

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Put the piping bag right in... and fill each one up.

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For the topping, mix some creme fraiche with lemon juice.

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Almost like butter icing.

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Dunk the top of each bun in the mixture

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then give them a quick dip in some finely chopped chives.

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Lay them out for your guests,

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but do a little taste test before they arrive.

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Bon appetit.

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You can taste the lemon, smoked salmon and the chives,

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and then after that you taste a little bit

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of the choux pastry.

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They're delicious.

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Don't forget to sample the watermelon and feta canapes either.

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The first thing you taste is the vinegar.

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Bang! Hits you on the tongue.

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And then everything else starts to work.

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It's delicious.

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Two mouthwatering canapes, and both can be prepared

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in under half an hour.

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The perfect curtain-raiser for any New Year party.

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But as well as food, a celebration needs drink.

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Fizzy drink.

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Not fond of traditional bubbly? Herefordshire farmer Denis Gwatkin

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might just have the thing for an alternative midnight toast.

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Cheers.

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Denis produces perry, a form of cider traditionally made

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from the perry pears of Herefordshire and the surrounding areas.

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The family have been farming here for roughly just over 100 years.

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Perry is quite a difficult drink to make from start to finish,

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it's a difficult fruit to grow, it's a difficult fruit to harvest

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and process, so it is mainly

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the smaller makers that are still doing it.

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We're here in the main orchard of the farm where we grow

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most of our perry pears. These trees are 20-ish years old.

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Planted by me as a boy, so that is quite nice.

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They will grow for another 20ft up into the air.

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They will live very near 300 years,

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so hopefully... Well, they'll long outlive me,

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put it that way! They'll be somebody else's worry one day,

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but you plant pears for your heirs, they say.

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So they are here for the future.

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A number of varieties are suitable for making perry,

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but for a sparkling one, nothing beats the Blakeney Red.

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See, with the Blakeney Red pear, they are sun-blushed on the skin,

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which is where the sun hits it and ripens it,

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and puts all the sugar content in.

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The only trouble with perry pears, unlike apples,

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they have a tendency to ripen from the inside out,

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which means you can have them rot on the tree.

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If I were to cut one open, I could show you the inside of the pear.

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As you can see, these are just about ripe for harvesting.

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Because their branch life is much shorter than apples, the pears need

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to be picked swiftly, otherwise they will rot.

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To protect the trees, the fruit is all brought down by hand,

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using a long hooked rod, or "planking pole".

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They are like bombs when they come down and hit you on the head.

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But that is all part of it.

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Over the years I have had a couple of black eyes.

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Everyone thinks it's from down the local pub,

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but it's not, it's from the orchard!

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Perry pears are quite different to apples.

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It might not sound like the right thing to say,

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but they are the fairer sex of the two. Bit like a woman, really,

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they need a bit of high maintenance from start to finish.

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Letters of complaint to Denis, please, not me.

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With the tractor loaded,

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it is time to go back to the farm with the precious cargo.

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For the last five years, Denis had had a modern press,

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producing 7,000 gallons of perry annually.

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But before that, he did everything by hand in the traditional way.

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And if you want to now what that was like, well, here's a demo.

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First he mills the fruit into a pulp.

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Then he packs this into cloth layers known as cheeses.

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Then the pulp is pressed until all the juice has run out.

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This is a barrel that has just come off the press out there.

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It needs a couple of months now to ferment, that one, to mature.

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This is one we have done earlier off the new, modern press.

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And for us to to turn that into our sparkling perry

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for Christmas and New Year,

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we need to add a little bit of yeast and sugar to just give it

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that second fermentation to kick it off.

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So I start off with a little bit of sugar.

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So we sprinkle a little bit on, yeah?

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Because it's a natural way to make natural sparkling perry.

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And add a little bit of yeast - this is a cultured yeast, and this is actually a champagne yeast,

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so it's the right one for the job.

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When it's the finished job we call this, cheekily, "cham-pear",

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because it has exactly the same characteristics as champagne.

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Denis has invited his cider-making team

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to his own pub on the farm

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to taste the fruits of their labours.

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So, how's the bubbly?

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It is cheaper than champagne and I think it has more taste.

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You can see now, I am blushing, because it is very, very strong,

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this glass of perry actually!

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It has gone straight to my head already.

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Well, that sounds like the perfect cue for a celebration.

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HE PLAYS JAUNTY TUNE ON ACCORDION

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Well, I don't have my own pub - not yet, anyway,

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so I will be doing my New Year's Eve entertaining at home.

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After eating so much meat over Christmas, I can't think of

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anything better to serve up than fish.

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Especially when it's prepared like this.

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It is the perfect dish if you make it properly,

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and what I mean by that is, you use the right fish, and I have

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a beautiful selection here which is prefect for this.

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Nice, natural smoked haddock, a few prawns,

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and instead of salmon I am using some trout,

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and if you combine all of this together with potatoes,

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a few herbs, a little bit of lemon juice,

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and do it with a classic beurre blanc,

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you have got a brilliant dish for this time of the year.

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So the first thing we're going to do is cook the fish,

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and for that, you want to create,

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as the French call it, a little court-bouillon,

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which is a mixture of water, lemon juice...and a few aromats.

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I have got some bay leaf and just a bit of onion.

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After that, place the fish into the poaching liquor

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and gently bring it to the boil.

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I always find it easy to cook fish in a mixture like this,

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because it keeps it nice and delicate.

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Particularly the trout.

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When it is has been simmering away for three to four minutes,

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take it off the heat and leave it to cool.

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While that is happening, I can get on with making the beurre blanc.

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It's a French traditional sauce,

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and it's one that I have been making for years,

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and it's really simple.

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Start off with some diced shallot...and white wine.

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And you put a fair amount in and bring this to the boil.

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And reduce this down by half.

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What you are looking for is the texture

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of sauteed shallots.

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Now, they shouldn't have any colour on it,

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but they should be softened shallots.

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And then what we do is add butter, quite a lot of butter.

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And all the while you are doing this, off the heat, you keep whisking it.

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Look at that, the whole block of butter has just gone in there.

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Now, it may look excessive, but don't blame me.

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This is French, nothing to do with me.

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Finish off with a squeeze of lemon juice

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then pass it all through a sieve.

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Just put a touch of black pepper in there.

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And then finally, some chopped chives.

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And there you have it - a classic beurre blanc,

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which is brilliant with fish and fishcakes.

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It is just so simple and so delicious,

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but you can leave that to one side and it will quite

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happily sit there. Meanwhile, we can turn our attention to the fish.

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It has cooled down enough to be handled now,

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so starting with the trout, peel off the skin

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and flake it up.

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Then do the same thing with the haddock,

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but make sure you remove all the bones first.

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Next, chop up some prawns,

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along with some dill and spring onions.

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Add a squeeze of lemon before throwing in boiled potatoes

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that have been left to dry.

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Season and combine it all together.

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For me, the ideal ratio is two parts fish to one part potato.

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Now, if you are going to deep-fry these,

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I would advise you to basically flour, egg and breadcrumb them,

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that way it will seal in the mixture.

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Because I am going to pan-fry them,

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there is really no need to put any egg in here

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to bind it up, but you must make sure that the potatoes

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are properly cooked.

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When you have finished making the patties, pop them

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in the fridge to firm them up.

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That'll give you time to make the garnish.

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All I am going to use for this is just some rainbow chard.

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I love this stuff. I grow it all the time in the garden.

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Just look at the amazing selection of colours you get -

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purple, orange, reds, yellows - it's fabulous!

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I am going to quickly cook the chard in a pan

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with some water and butter.

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Don't leave them in there too long,

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or they will start to lose their vibrant colour.

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So drain it off...

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and then we can cook our fishcakes.

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So we grab plenty of butter.

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If you are worried about the butter in this bit,

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you clearly weren't watching when I made the sauce.

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And then you throw in the fishcakes.

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It only takes two to three minutes on each side.

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And then everything is ready to plate up, starting with the chard.

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You can grab your nice fishcake...

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..and then not forgetting this amazing beurre blanc.

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Now, you can serve this as a starter or as a main course.

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Mm, it is so delicate - that flavour of the smoked haddock

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is exactly what you need in this.

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That combined with the trout and you get chunks of meat,

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which are the prawns. But it's that sauce, it's just delicious.

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I like that.

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Guests won't be expecting these on New Year's Eve,

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but they will love them, especially with the sumptuous beurre blanc.

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As for the amount of butter involved,

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let's just keep that between us!

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New Year's Eve has always been associating with partying,

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and today, food historian Ivan Day is going back in time

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to make a historic 18th celebratory brew called a wassail.

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I am going to explore wassailing traditions by first of all

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attempting to reconstruct a beautiful, rustic wassail bowl,

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and also make some wassail.

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Traditionally, village wassail bowls were made

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from either apple wood or something called maplin,

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what we would now call maple.

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Ivan has decorated his bowl

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with a specially-made hazelwood frame covered with

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traditional Christmas greenery like holly, mistletoe, rosemary and bay.

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Evergreens have been used as Christmas decorations

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since the medieval period.

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All the plants they chose are the ones

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that still had their leaves - they symbolised everlasting life.

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Brightly-coloured ribbons add the final flourish to the wassail bowl.

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And it is now ready.

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But what did people do with it, exactly?

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What you did was you picked it up like this, and it is lovely,

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and you went off and you scrounged lots of free booze

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off your neighbours.

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So off I go!

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# Wassail and wassail all over the town

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# Our cup, it is white and our ale, it is brown

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# Our tap, it is made of the good old ashen... #

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While the villagers are carousing around the green with their

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bowlful of beer, the village squire was enjoying a much more

0:19:570:20:03

refined type of wassail made from expensive sherry,

0:20:030:20:07

and served from a beautiful china punch bowl.

0:20:070:20:11

I am going to make a rather posh bowl of wassail

0:20:120:20:16

from a recipe in Robert Chambers' The Book of Days, published in 1864.

0:20:160:20:23

He starts by coring apples and baking them

0:20:240:20:27

in the oven for 40 minutes until they are soft.

0:20:270:20:31

He then adds spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and ginger

0:20:310:20:35

to a cup of water, and simmers them gently to release their flavour.

0:20:350:20:39

The Book of Days tells us about the merrymaking of New Year.

0:20:410:20:45

"The head of the house assembled his family around a bowl of spiced ale.

0:20:480:20:54

"The word that passed among them was

0:20:540:20:57

"the ancient Saxon phrase 'Wass hael!'

0:20:570:21:01

"That is, 'To your health.' "

0:21:010:21:04

So wassail is the earliest way that we said "cheers!"

0:21:040:21:09

The next step for this festive drink

0:21:130:21:15

is to add sugar and the all-important sherry or wine to the pan.

0:21:150:21:20

Depending on the region you lived in, wassail varied -

0:21:200:21:23

in some areas, it was made with ale, in others, with cider.

0:21:230:21:28

Both, however, were zested up with spices, sugar

0:21:280:21:32

and often whipped eggs.

0:21:320:21:34

The gentry, however, preferred theirs made from wine.

0:21:340:21:38

Once the sherry is hot,

0:21:390:21:41

the aromatic spice mixture is strained in.

0:21:410:21:44

To make the drink nice and frothy,

0:21:440:21:46

whisked egg yolks are added along with a bit of elbow grease.

0:21:460:21:50

We keep whisking and whisking

0:21:520:21:55

until we get this wonderful froth appearing.

0:21:550:21:59

That is called the grace of the wassail.

0:21:590:22:02

The drink is then poured into the squire's fancy punch bowl.

0:22:040:22:07

The final touch is to float the baked apple pulp on top of the wassail.

0:22:100:22:14

So here is a lovely warming drink

0:22:170:22:19

to get the new year off to a brilliant start.

0:22:190:22:23

So, cin-cin, bottoms up,

0:22:230:22:27

or should I say wassail?

0:22:270:22:30

Wassail to you, Ivan.

0:22:320:22:33

Another way to kick off the new year in style

0:22:360:22:38

is with a show-stopping dessert

0:22:380:22:40

and I reckon I have found the ultimate.

0:22:400:22:43

Now, there are lots of desserts that you can do at New Year

0:22:460:22:49

but this one has to be the best

0:22:490:22:51

and as a pastry chef, I am saying that with trepidation, really,

0:22:510:22:55

because when it is made properly,

0:22:550:22:57

this can be the tastiest dessert ever.

0:22:570:22:59

It is a delice of fruit.

0:22:590:23:02

Really simple to prepare if you break it down into stages.

0:23:020:23:05

I am starting with making the fruit mousse filling.

0:23:060:23:09

For that, I place four leaves of gelatine into cold water.

0:23:090:23:14

While they are softening up, I pour some frozen fruit into a pan

0:23:140:23:19

along with a splash of cold water.

0:23:190:23:21

We can actually mashed this around a bit to get plenty of flavour out.

0:23:210:23:25

As it comes to the boil, I am adding some cassis.

0:23:250:23:28

Just a little drizzle...

0:23:280:23:30

Now stick everything in a blender.

0:23:310:23:33

After a couple of minutes, the puree is ready to pass through a sieve.

0:23:360:23:40

You don't need a cloth for this - just through a nice, fine sieve.

0:23:420:23:46

Now put it back on the heat and add the softened gelatine.

0:23:470:23:52

You need to warm the mixture up,

0:23:520:23:54

otherwise it won't dissolve the soaked gelatine.

0:23:540:23:57

Just warming it through

0:23:570:23:59

and once you don't see any gelatine in there,

0:23:590:24:02

you can take it off the heat.

0:24:020:24:04

And while that is cooling down,

0:24:040:24:06

I am going to make the next part of the mousse filling -

0:24:060:24:09

Italian meringue.

0:24:090:24:10

Start off by heating up some sugar and water in a pan.

0:24:120:24:15

This has to be brought to an exact temperature

0:24:170:24:20

so you will need a sugar thermometer.

0:24:200:24:22

There is no real way of testing otherwise,

0:24:230:24:26

because boiling water boils at 100 degrees.

0:24:260:24:29

When it has sugar in it, it keeps increasing the temperature,

0:24:290:24:32

so you have to get to what they call "soft-ball"

0:24:320:24:37

which is about 120ish degrees centigrade.

0:24:370:24:42

As soon as you get the magic number...

0:24:440:24:46

..put two egg whites into a bowl and start mixing.

0:24:480:24:51

As they whisk up,

0:24:520:24:53

pour the hot sugar solution slowly and steadily into the bowl.

0:24:530:24:57

As soon as the sugar hits the egg white,

0:24:590:25:01

it starts to fluff up.

0:25:010:25:03

And this is exactly how you make marshmallow,

0:25:050:25:08

just with the addition of gelatine.

0:25:080:25:10

When the Italian meringue is done,

0:25:120:25:14

swap the bowls over and whip up the last part of the filling -

0:25:140:25:18

some double cream.

0:25:180:25:20

No need to worry about washing the whisk -

0:25:200:25:23

it all gets mixed in together anyway.

0:25:230:25:26

Now, the key to this is to make sure

0:25:260:25:27

the cream is the same consistency as the whipped egg whites,

0:25:270:25:31

so not over-whipped, otherwise it splits in the mixture.

0:25:310:25:35

Now you can bring all of the elements of the mousse filling together.

0:25:370:25:41

Start by mixing the cooled fruit puree into the Italian meringue.

0:25:410:25:45

Then add the softly whipped cream.

0:25:490:25:51

With the mousse filling done, I can start building the delice,

0:25:540:25:57

starting with the base.

0:25:570:25:59

To save time, I've basically just used a bought-in sponge

0:25:590:26:03

and all you do with this is just cut out the base like that.

0:26:030:26:07

Better save this, otherwise my auntie will be on the phone, whingeing -

0:26:080:26:12

"You can use that for trifle."

0:26:120:26:14

Then we want a nice, thin piece of sponge.

0:26:140:26:19

Now, I mean thin piece of sponge -

0:26:190:26:21

not a massive great inch-thick piece of sponge.

0:26:210:26:24

It has got to be nice and thin.

0:26:240:26:26

Place one half of this sponge

0:26:270:26:29

back inside the mould that you cut it with earlier.

0:26:290:26:32

Always do this on the serving platter that you are going to serve it in.

0:26:320:26:35

This is not a dessert that you want to be transferring round the kitchen

0:26:350:26:38

or wandering around with.

0:26:380:26:40

Then grab some more cassis.

0:26:400:26:42

And just a little drizzle over the top.

0:26:440:26:47

Now pour in the mousse filling.

0:26:500:26:52

Look at the colour of that - beautiful!

0:26:550:26:57

Remember, this is just with frozen fruit.

0:26:570:27:00

Don't forget to leave a little bit of space for the jelly topping.

0:27:000:27:04

Then pop it in the fridge for a couple of hours to set.

0:27:040:27:08

While that is happening, I can make the clear fruit jelly for the top.

0:27:100:27:14

Start by softening three leaves of gelatine in cold water.

0:27:140:27:18

Then put some water into a pan

0:27:200:27:22

and add some frozen blackberries and blueberries.

0:27:220:27:25

And then we are going to add the sugar.

0:27:250:27:27

You can make this with fresh or frozen berries. It's up to you.

0:27:300:27:33

The thing about frozen berries is that they are available.

0:27:330:27:36

As the mixture comes to the boil,

0:27:370:27:39

add some cassis and keep it on the heat for a few minutes.

0:27:390:27:44

Then take it off the stove and sieve the mix.

0:27:440:27:48

It's always good to put it through a cloth.

0:27:480:27:50

You can use a tea towel but it kind of wrecks the tea towel.

0:27:500:27:53

Now, it's really important not to press this through at this stage.

0:27:550:27:59

If you press it through, the jelly just ends up being cloudy.

0:27:590:28:03

By now, the gelatine has softened,

0:28:050:28:07

so you can add it to the warm fruit liquid.

0:28:070:28:10

It will start dissolving immediately.

0:28:100:28:12

If you mix all this lot together,

0:28:120:28:14

you end up with this beautifully clear jelly like that.

0:28:140:28:17

Now, don't cheat and buy that ready-made jelly -

0:28:170:28:21

make your own!

0:28:210:28:23

Leave this to cool down slightly

0:28:230:28:26

by which time the mousse will have set in the fridge.

0:28:260:28:28

Time to take it out

0:28:280:28:30

and carefully spoon the jelly liquid over the top.

0:28:300:28:34

Then put it back in the fridge for a final couple of hours.

0:28:340:28:38

That gives me time to get Ralph smartened up

0:28:380:28:40

for tonight's celebrations.

0:28:400:28:42

Right - New Year, and a party. How cool is this?

0:28:420:28:47

That is proper smart.

0:28:490:28:51

Happy with that?

0:28:510:28:52

RALPH WHINES

0:28:520:28:54

Oh, come on, Ralph - cheer up a bit! We have the party of the year later!

0:28:540:28:58

Anyway, the delice will have set by now

0:29:010:29:04

and this is what you end up with.

0:29:040:29:06

The rewards for all your effort -

0:29:070:29:09

this amazing mirrored delice on the top.

0:29:090:29:11

Now you can decorate this just quite simply.

0:29:110:29:13

I have got some figs, a little bit of fresh raspberries...

0:29:130:29:19

..a little bit of mint...

0:29:190:29:21

You're probably wondering how you are going to get it out of the mould.

0:29:210:29:24

You can do this with a warm cloth around the edge,

0:29:240:29:26

but then you have got to clean the plate.

0:29:260:29:28

The easiest way to do it...

0:29:280:29:29

..is get one of these for Christmas.

0:29:310:29:33

This comes free with a mask.

0:29:340:29:36

When you are not using it, you can sort your car out with it as well.

0:29:370:29:40

You go round the edge of the mould.

0:29:400:29:42

The heat loosens the mousse just enough

0:29:440:29:46

for the ring to be lifted clean off.

0:29:460:29:48

Told you it is worth the effort!

0:30:010:30:03

When it comes to serving up,

0:30:040:30:06

the trick is to first off run a knife through some hot water -

0:30:060:30:10

that way, it'll cleanly slice through the delice.

0:30:100:30:13

Once you have cut it, clean your knife,

0:30:130:30:16

warm it up again, dry it and cut it again.

0:30:160:30:21

How good does that look?

0:30:260:30:27

Now this dessert is all about the taste.

0:30:290:30:32

It looks spectacular, there is nothing else like it,

0:30:320:30:35

but trust me, it is worth the effort...

0:30:350:30:38

..because it is not until you taste this...

0:30:390:30:42

The best dessert ever.

0:30:470:30:48

And what better time to serve it than New Year's Eve?

0:30:490:30:52

The biggest celebration deserves one of the greatest desserts.

0:30:520:30:56

Now whether you like to celebrate the New Year with a loud bang

0:31:020:31:05

or prefer to mark it with a quite night in,

0:31:050:31:07

there is one place that has it all.

0:31:070:31:10

Austria comes alive and alight at this time of the year

0:31:100:31:13

as our festive food reporter Annie Gray has been finding out.

0:31:130:31:17

Nothing beats the glistening lights, the mulled wine,

0:31:170:31:21

the lebkuchen and the savoury treats.

0:31:210:31:25

This place is like one big street party.

0:31:250:31:27

But the crowded markets are in stark contrast

0:31:290:31:32

to the remote mountains that stand above the cities

0:31:320:31:34

and that is where I went to meet Theresia Bacher

0:31:340:31:37

who runs a very unusual supper club

0:31:370:31:39

is Stuhlfelden in the Salzburg region.

0:31:390:31:43

Here, she cooks in her Rauchkuchl, or "smoky kitchen" -

0:31:430:31:46

an indoor open fire with no chimney.

0:31:460:31:49

The smoke collects under the ceiling of her 500-year-old farmhouse,

0:31:490:31:53

giving the food a flavour as unique as Theresia herself.

0:31:530:31:57

SHE SHOUTS IN GERMAN

0:31:570:32:00

This is the last house of its kind in the Alpine region

0:32:000:32:04

and I am going to help Theresia prepare a feast

0:32:040:32:07

fit for a New Year's party here.

0:32:070:32:09

That is, if I can tear myself away from the views.

0:32:120:32:15

This is just unbelievable. And this is all yours?

0:32:170:32:21

Yes, I worked with my father when I was ten years old.

0:32:210:32:26

So you spent most of your childhood up here?

0:32:260:32:29

I helped my father to make the milk and we have cows, we have goats

0:32:290:32:35

and it was my life.

0:32:350:32:37

Theresia wants to make a drink for the celebration.

0:32:390:32:42

This is before we have done any cooking.

0:32:420:32:45

This is a sort of cranberry schnapps liquor.

0:32:450:32:48

Cranberries are known as "red gold" here

0:32:480:32:51

because help to cure the flu and colds and coughs

0:32:510:32:53

so that means that everyone who is here at our party

0:32:530:32:56

will be feeling great by the end of it -

0:32:560:32:59

especially useful at New Year.

0:32:590:33:01

-OK, so we start by chopping the vanilla?

-Yes.

0:33:010:33:04

And now schnapps, please, and put in two bottles.

0:33:040:33:10

We work now.

0:33:100:33:11

Please, two bottles.

0:33:110:33:13

So the rum and the cognac.

0:33:150:33:16

This one, half in each?

0:33:160:33:19

'Looks like it is going to be quite a party.'

0:33:190:33:22

Now we must taste!

0:33:220:33:23

-Mmm!

-It is too much schnapps. I think a little bit of sugar.

0:33:250:33:29

Wir lassen es schneien.

0:33:290:33:30

-Snow has come!

-ANNIE LAUGHS

0:33:300:33:32

-It is good - a little bit strong.

-'A little bit strong?'

0:33:380:33:41

That is an understatement!

0:33:410:33:44

As the guests begin to arrive,

0:33:440:33:46

Theresia starts cooking the main course in her smoky kitchen

0:33:460:33:49

and someone has "volunteered" me to be her sous chef for the night.

0:33:490:33:54

Bring me oil - I need oil.

0:33:540:33:57

And on tonight's menu,

0:33:570:33:59

the traditional festive feast of venison

0:33:590:34:01

is served with beans, red cabbage and potato dumplings.

0:34:010:34:06

At Christmas, do you cook like this? Is it particularly popular?

0:34:060:34:10

Yes, because it is the last day

0:34:100:34:12

for the hunter to go to the mountain.

0:34:120:34:16

-The last day of the shooting season?

-Yes.

0:34:160:34:18

To the venison, Theresia adds some onions, beans, herbs

0:34:200:34:24

and mushrooms from the mountain with a little bit of seasoning.

0:34:240:34:28

-Please, I need...cram? Cram?

-Cream?

0:34:300:34:34

'Oh, here we go again.'

0:34:340:34:37

Bring me cranberries, cranberries.

0:34:370:34:40

Please.

0:34:400:34:41

Bring me all the Bohnenkraut.

0:34:410:34:43

Being Theresia's sous chef is a bit of a challenge.

0:34:430:34:48

I think even James would struggle.

0:34:480:34:50

Every time Theresia cooks here for other people, the supper club,

0:34:500:34:54

she picks on someone and they are her stooge for the evening.

0:34:540:34:57

And I don't really mind

0:34:570:34:58

because it is all part of the joy of being here.

0:34:580:35:01

-It's right!

-Danke.

0:35:010:35:04

After adding some finishing touches,

0:35:060:35:07

the feast is ready to be enjoyed by the party guests

0:35:070:35:10

but before I get my break, Theresia and I must make dessert -

0:35:100:35:15

a special Austrian dumpling cooked in honey butter

0:35:150:35:18

served only at Christmas and New Year.

0:35:180:35:20

This is quite something -

0:35:220:35:24

there are so many elements in this New Year's meal.

0:35:240:35:27

There is the stuff from the mountain that gives a real sense of place.

0:35:270:35:30

There is the Rauchkuchl traditional cooking.

0:35:300:35:33

Everything just comes together.

0:35:330:35:34

This, if you were having a New Year's party like this,

0:35:340:35:37

would really be one to remember.

0:35:370:35:40

Prost!

0:35:400:35:43

The guests will soon be arriving for my New Year's party

0:35:530:35:56

and to help me cook the main course, I have called in reinforcements -

0:35:560:36:00

my mate and all-round adventurer, Charley Boorman.

0:36:000:36:04

Hey! How are you doing, fella?

0:36:040:36:07

Come on in.

0:36:070:36:08

Together, we are going to cook the perfect dish

0:36:080:36:11

for everybody to get stuck into.

0:36:110:36:13

Now, New Year, I actually cook a curry on New Year's Eve

0:36:160:36:20

cos I think it is fantastic -

0:36:200:36:21

it's a dish...you can chuck on the middle of the table and everyone dives into.

0:36:210:36:25

But I am going to do a butter chicken curry

0:36:250:36:27

cos it's one of my favourites.

0:36:270:36:28

Oh, my mouth is watering.

0:36:280:36:31

-The first thing we are going to do is marinate the chicken.

-OK, yeah.

0:36:310:36:34

So we have cumin, garam masala and chilli powder.

0:36:340:36:36

Two teaspoons of each in the blender.

0:36:360:36:39

Heaped or just normal?

0:36:390:36:41

CHARLEY LAUGHS That'll do.

0:36:430:36:45

-Heaped, heaped.

-OK, there we go.

-That will be all right.

0:36:450:36:48

To this, add three cloves of chopped garlic

0:36:480:36:51

along with a teaspoon of ground coriander.

0:36:510:36:55

Then comes the turmeric.

0:36:550:36:56

Turmeric is really, really strong.

0:36:560:36:58

-And really colours as well, doesn't it?

-Yeah.

0:36:580:37:00

-So you want half, OK?

-OK.

-And then half of cinnamon.

0:37:000:37:04

These are the two strongest ones.

0:37:040:37:07

Next we have got some ginger

0:37:070:37:09

and you can grab the yogurt out of the fridge as well

0:37:090:37:13

and you can chuck a whole pot of yogurt in there as well.

0:37:130:37:16

When the ginger is chopped up, chuck that in too.

0:37:190:37:22

What you are going to do is just get the blender on

0:37:230:37:25

and get this going into a paste with these - these are cashew nuts.

0:37:250:37:29

-Oh...

-They are going to go in as well.

0:37:290:37:31

Once it's turned into a paste,

0:37:310:37:33

add the juice of a lemon and blitz again.

0:37:330:37:36

Then chop up some chicken breast into decent-sized chunks

0:37:360:37:41

and mix with the marinade.

0:37:410:37:42

It is best to leave this overnight,

0:37:440:37:46

which I've done already with some I made yesterday.

0:37:460:37:50

Then cover a baking tray with tinfoil for protection.

0:37:500:37:54

-Ruins your tray.

-What, because we're going to grill it?

0:37:540:37:57

What we are about to do next, because we're grilling it.

0:37:570:37:59

This what the chicken looks like

0:37:590:38:01

once it's been in the marinade

0:38:010:38:02

and what we do is basically just...

0:38:020:38:05

-Oh, lovely colours.

-..pop this all on to the tray.

0:38:050:38:09

There is something about Indian food -

0:38:090:38:11

every sort of three or four days, five days,

0:38:110:38:13

you start to crave Indian food.

0:38:130:38:15

With that cooking away, we can make the sauce,

0:38:170:38:19

starting with cinnamon, cracked cardamom,

0:38:190:38:22

along with chopped garlic, ginger and green chillies.

0:38:220:38:26

So what does New Year mean for you?

0:38:260:38:28

Is it the calm after the storm of Christmas?

0:38:280:38:30

My parents and my wife's parents don't really...get on very well.

0:38:300:38:35

If it is Christmas and New Year,

0:38:350:38:37

I always say have the family round,

0:38:370:38:40

but get another independent family involved

0:38:400:38:43

so that the families can't fight against each other,

0:38:430:38:46

cos they know they have to be polite.

0:38:460:38:48

Anyway, I shouldn't say that - I'm sorry, Jennifer.

0:38:480:38:51

By the time New Year's comes along,

0:38:510:38:53

we want to go and party and have some fun.

0:38:530:38:56

That is what it is all about, innit, really?

0:38:560:38:58

And for the last 20-odd years, we have been going up to Scotland.

0:38:580:39:01

New Year's up in Scotland is just fantastic.

0:39:010:39:05

They love it up there. It is a religion, almost.

0:39:050:39:09

This curry may not be Scottish

0:39:100:39:12

but it is ideal for setting you up on New Year's Eve.

0:39:120:39:15

Chuck the cardamom and cinnamon into a pan.

0:39:170:39:20

-In we go with garlic.

-Yeah.

-And the ginger.

0:39:200:39:23

Next comes the chilli, followed by a tin of tomatoes.

0:39:250:39:28

After that has simmered away for about five minutes,

0:39:290:39:32

the chicken will be cooked and ready to go into the pan, marinade and all.

0:39:320:39:37

The whole lot goes in.

0:39:370:39:38

Now we can make the chapattis -

0:39:410:39:43

start with tipping out some wholemeal flour onto the work surface

0:39:430:39:47

and make a well in the middle.

0:39:470:39:50

See? He knows what he's doing!

0:39:500:39:52

Yeah - it is from my building days. Ten years a builder.

0:39:520:39:55

Were you ten years a builder?

0:39:550:39:56

Yeah, I did a lot of acting,

0:39:560:39:59

then my acting career started heading south.

0:39:590:40:01

-So what films were you in?

-I was in Deliverance, as a kid.

0:40:010:40:04

That was my first role, at seven. I got a tricycle for that.

0:40:040:40:07

My father directed it and he said, "Look, Charley,

0:40:070:40:09

"if you sit on that sofa with that bloke, I'll give you a tricycle."

0:40:090:40:13

-It sounds all dodgy...

-JAMES LAUGHS

0:40:130:40:14

But I really wanted the tricycle.

0:40:140:40:16

Let's see if Charley's still got some of his building skills.

0:40:170:40:21

Add some water to the flour, little by little,

0:40:210:40:24

and mix it all together.

0:40:240:40:26

When the mixture becomes sticky,

0:40:260:40:28

divide it into four pieces ready for rolling.

0:40:280:40:31

Got a little rolling pin here.

0:40:330:40:35

We can then flatten them nice and flat

0:40:350:40:37

because you want the inside of this to stay nice and moist, you see.

0:40:370:40:40

When you get them nice and thin, lift them off

0:40:400:40:43

and cook them direct on the hot plate, like that.

0:40:430:40:46

-Superb.

-All right?

0:40:460:40:48

The chapattis only need 30 seconds on each side to cook.

0:40:480:40:53

After that, brush them with some melted butter.

0:40:530:40:57

I noticed you haven't clarified your butter here -

0:40:570:41:00

just saying...it's...

0:41:000:41:02

Anyway...anyway, we'll move quickly on.

0:41:040:41:08

One final thing - after you finish off buttering these,

0:41:080:41:14

we then take some double cream.

0:41:140:41:16

Oh - that's what it is all about, isn't it?

0:41:160:41:19

You don't normally see this in a curry, double cream.

0:41:190:41:23

And this is why we call it a butter chicken curry.

0:41:230:41:27

You take butter and you put it in.

0:41:270:41:29

And all this flavours it as well.

0:41:290:41:34

Yeah, and gives it that kind of shine as well.

0:41:340:41:36

Butter makes everything looks better, doesn't it?

0:41:360:41:38

You're getting all your cheffy techniques and words out now, aren't you?

0:41:380:41:42

Finally, add the juice of one lemon and season with pepper.

0:41:420:41:46

Then time for some quality control.

0:41:480:41:50

Charley Boy, that's pretty good, that.

0:41:520:41:55

If you want to replicate this, we have about 22 people coming

0:41:550:41:59

in about...about an hour.

0:41:590:42:02

OK. All right.

0:42:020:42:04

-You know where everything is.

-You get off and...

0:42:040:42:06

Break into that larder, wine cellar.

0:42:060:42:10

-I will do.

-OK.

0:42:100:42:11

So welcome to the Charley Boorman Cooking Show

0:42:110:42:15

and I'm doing a Christmas special at the moment

0:42:150:42:17

and we are going to do curry...

0:42:170:42:20

Cut, cut! THEY LAUGH

0:42:200:42:23

The curry is certainly going down a treat

0:42:250:42:27

and it is the ideal dish for everyone to dig into.

0:42:270:42:30

LAUGHTER AND CHATTER

0:42:300:42:32

But Charley seems to be getting confused

0:42:320:42:34

about a few of the details.

0:42:340:42:37

Is this recipe yours?

0:42:370:42:38

Yeah, it's one of... actually, James stole from me.

0:42:380:42:40

-What's in it, again?

-Chicken?

0:42:400:42:43

THEY LAUGH

0:42:430:42:45

For me, New Year's Eve is all about bringing your best mates together

0:42:450:42:49

and celebrating everything good in life

0:42:490:42:51

and with these dishes,

0:42:510:42:53

you will definitely get your New Year off to a cracking start.

0:42:530:42:57

You can find all the recipes from the series on...

0:43:000:43:03

Three, two, one - Happy New Year!

0:43:060:43:11

CHEERING AND LAUGHTER

0:43:110:43:13

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