Home-Cooked Treats James Martin: Home Comforts


Home-Cooked Treats

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Sometimes, there's no place like home, and few things are more

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comforting and delicious than real home cooking.

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Living in this beautiful country with great produce

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right on our doorstep, we really are spoilt for choice.

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So in this series, I'm inviting you into my kitchen to share with

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you some of my tasty home-cooked treats.

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'The dishes I turn to,

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'whether entertaining friends and family or just relaxing on my own.

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'In our busy lives, the daily grind of getting a half decent meal

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'onto the plate and onto the dinner table on time can feel like a chore.

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'And that's why it's so important for home cooks

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'to grab any opportunity to make dishes

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'that are a delight to cook and an indulgence to eat.'

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Today, I'm going to show you dishes that are a real treat,

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dishes that I can't wait to come home and have a go at cooking.

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'For me, a home-cooked treat is about dishes packed full of flavour

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'and happy memories.'

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My granny always used to make her own mint sauce,

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and it's one of the things that I always remember.

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'And by using a few luxurious ingredients,

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'your dinner guests will feel truly spoilt.

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'We've always had a fondness for a treat, so when you have time,

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'indulge yourself in some guilt-free home-cooking pleasure.

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'My first treat is an ingredient most of us

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'would think is pretty decadent, but I'm turning it into something

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'light, clean and pretty as a picture.

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'My vanilla cured salmon with cool cucumber ketchup is a dish to

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'impress.

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'It will definitely make your guests feel indulged.'

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So the first thing we're going to do is prepare our cure for it.

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Now, it's very similar to sort of gravlax in the way that we

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actually start the cure, and like smoked salmon as well.

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But we're going to infuse it with vanilla.

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Now, vanilla and fish go fantastically well together.

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It goes particularly well with salmon, cod and scallops.

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But the first thing we're going to do is blend it all together.

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Now, this is a good way of actually using up leftover vanilla pods.

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So if you scrape out the seeds, and you want to use the leftover

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pods, then this is fantastic to actually do.

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We're going to put some sugar in this.

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And roughly, it's equal quantities of sugar and salt for your cure.

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'Blend the sugar and the vanilla pod until thoroughly ground together.

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'Pour it into a bowl, then add the same quantity of salt.'

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Now, I like to use sea salt for this.

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I find table salt is a bit harsh,

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tastes too much of sodium for what I need.

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But we just mix this together, and you've got, basically,

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your simple cure, as easy as that.

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And then we've got our lovely salmon.

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Now, what you need to do with this is line your board with some

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clingfilm first.

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It's a good idea to use clingfilm because

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whenever you're curing any fish, it actually draws out the moisture.

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And if you don't wrap it in clingfilm,

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you'll find it'll just go everywhere.

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'Make sure your clingfilm is overlapping,

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'then place half the cure mix down the middle.'

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We take this beautiful bit of Scottish salmon.

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Now, you could do Scottish salmon like this or trout.

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And we just lay the fish

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on top of the little bit of salt, first of all.

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And then, take the remaining salt and just sprinkle this over

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the top, and then wrap the fish in the clingfilm.

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By using the clingfilm, really,

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you'll actually hold the salt onto the fish as well.

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'Pop the salmon onto a tray, then ideally,

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'leave it in the fridge for 24 hours.'

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Now, what you end up with, you see the liquid that's come out of this?

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What you need to do is just open this up,

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and the texture and the colour changes so much.

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But also, the feel of it, really, becomes much firmer,

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and you've got this beautiful piece of cured salmon.

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'Wash off all the cure mix, as it's now done its job,

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'then pat the fish dry with a clean cloth or kitchen paper.

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'Rewrap the salmon

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'and it can be stored safely in the fridge for up to a week.'

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Now, with this, I'm going to serve a cucumber ketchup.

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It sounds more complicated than it actually is.

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Whereas a tomato ketchup, you've got to cook it, this one, you can

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actually have it raw.

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'Thickly cut off the skin of the two cucumbers.

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'It's the outside I'm going to use to make the ketchup.

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'But don't throw away the remaining cucumber centres

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'cos I'm chargrilling them later.'

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With the remaining part, we can just chop it up.

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No need to peel this as well cos you want the actual colour,

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the green colour, to come out into our ketchup.

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There's no need to add much liquid to this as well

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because there's so much water in cucumber.

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All we need to do now is just blitz it.

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'Once the cucumber is blitzed, add rice wine vinegar,

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'a pinch of salt, then blitz again.

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'At this stage, the ketchup is really runny,

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'but I have an ingredient that will thicken the mix.'

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This is Xanthan gum,

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and you can actually buy this from supermarkets now. It's on the shelf.

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People don't know what the hell to do with it cos you just walk

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past it.

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'Xanthan gum is made from a natural bacteria,

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'and it's most often used to stabilise sauces and dressings.

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'It will act like cornflour and thicken the ketchup.'

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And after about sort of two or three teaspoons, just check it.

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And what you end up with is a lovely ketchup.

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The secret is not to add too much.

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There's enough flavour to the Xanthan gum.

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If you add too much, it becomes too thick and too heavy,

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so we can just lift this out, and you can see the texture.

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And you get a texture very similar to sort of tomato ketchup.

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And that's it.

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'Making the pickled ginger to go with the dish couldn't be simpler.

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'Peel and finely slice some fresh ginger,

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'then add it to a pan with some rice wine vinegar, sugar and salt.'

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The key to this, really,

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is sticking to those same three ingredients - the salt,

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the sugar and the vinegar, but use the right vinegar, the right salt,

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otherwise you'll never have the same sort of effect running throughout.

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'Let the pickle simmer for a couple of minutes

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'until the ginger wilts, then take it off the heat and let it cool.

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'Now to the griddled cucumber.'

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And what you do with this is you grab the inside of the cucumber

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and chargrill it. It's a little bit fancy, I know.

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It's a little bit poncey. But this is a treat.

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If you chargrill it on the barbecue, it's wonderful.

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It's brilliant to serve in drinks, but also,

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fabulous with chicken and fish.

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'While the cucumbers griddle, you can

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'prepare the garnishes for the salmon.

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'I like to use crisp and peppery radishes,

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'watercress and mustard cress.'

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It's nicely chargrilled.

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And then, all you can do is plate it up, really. It's as easy as that.

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'With a sharp knife, cut thin slices of the salmon on an angle,

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'much like smoked salmon, and then arrange them

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'on a plate along with the garnishes and the cucumber ketchup.'

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It's a little bit cheffy.

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But hey, it's my house!

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Now, this dish looks spectacular and really is a special treat

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when you've got guests coming round.

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And it tastes so much better than the bought-in stuff,

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I can't tell you.

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And so simple to make.

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'This dish is both humble and luxurious at the same time

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'and a treat for the eyes and the taste buds.

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'It's guaranteed to delight any dinner party guest.'

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All you need is time and a pair of tweezers. Now you know.

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'But time is one thing that's become scarce in modern life,

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'and convenience has often become what's important to us.'

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Take a humble loaf.

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By the 1950s, mass-produced,

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sliced bread accounted for 80% of what we bought in Britain.

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But the times, they say, are a-changing!

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And with the growth of Artisan bakeries, the percentage

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of proper bread eaten by us Brits has well and truly risen.

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But to make that genuine Artisan loaf,

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it all starts with the most important ingredient - flour.

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Just up the road from me in Dorset,

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award-winning miller Michael Stoate is producing some of the best

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traditional stone-ground flour to be found anywhere in the country.

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The family's been milling for the last 180 years.

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We started milling in 1832, and I'm the fifth generation of miller.

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It's something I really enjoy doing and have a passion for.

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We're producing nine different types of flour - wheat, rye and spelt.

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It's nearly all organic, so it's all stone-ground in a traditional

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way between horizontal millstones.

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The history books go back to Domesday Book record, really.

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There's been a mill here for at least 1,000 years. Who knows, maybe more.

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It's a water-driven mill.

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It's one of five on a mile section of the River Stour.

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That's the only one still being used.

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This is an overshot cast-iron water wheel.

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It was built in about 1880.

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So the age-old process of milling starts like it always has

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- by choosing the grain.

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Like anything, the better quality the raw material,

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the better quality the end result.

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And we can source most of that locally within a 30-mile

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radius of the mill.

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But before any of the actual grinding begins,

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the grain is cleaned, sieving out any of the dust or leftover chaff.

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But once that's done, the milling goes into full swing.

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Each set of stones here has a raw hopper above it

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and the grain comes down, through the hopper, and feeds into the stones.

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The millstones inside here, turning at about 120 revs per minute.

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And the flour comes out through here to check the quality of it.

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The stones we use here are French Burr millstones, so they're

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renowned for being the best for producing a nice, soft quality flour.

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It doesn't stop there.

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The milled wholegrain needs sieving, and it's that process that

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determines if the flour is white or brown.

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This is the second flour sieve.

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The flour, having passed through the millstones,

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then goes upstairs and goes through a first sieve

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and comes down and goes through this sieve, which is

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finer and removes more of the brown, making the white flour.

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This is our strong white flour, ready to go out to the baker's.

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This is the most refined flour we produce.

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It's had a lot of the brown sifted out of it,

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so down to about a 70% extraction.

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So it's still got a creamy colour to it,

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so it's got a good flavour and good colour.

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It's making a tasty loaf.

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And it's real products, like Michael's flour,

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made the time-honoured way, with passion and expertise,

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that confirms the humble loaf is once again on the rise.

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'Having the time to make home-made bread is almost a treat in itself.

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'Michael's popped round from the mill with not a small bag of flour,

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'so I think I should treat him with my next recipe.

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'My spice-scented, butter-rich rolls with Bourbon

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'and maple icing are an indulgence you just have to try.'

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We're going to make a dough, and we're going to make it

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with your very, very special flour that we've got.

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And I'm going to use this sort of...

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Well, the strong bread flour for this one.

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So what's so special about this?

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The strong white flour, all our flours are stone-ground,

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so unlike roller-ground mills, mass-produced roller-ground mills,

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-this is done in one pass.

-Yeah.

-The wheat goes through the millstones.

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Everything gets ground together.

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Even the wheat germ oils, they get mixed in with the mill.

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It's quite interesting, that. When you think of a manufactured flour,

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big manufactured flour, you actually make it like a recipe.

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You combine all the ingredients and then mix in at the end.

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And it separates every separate bit of the grain into its different

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-fragments.

-Yeah.

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And then, to manufacture the flour they want to market,

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they put various bits back together again.

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You get a massive difference in taste.

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I've got 625 grams of this flour.

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Now, you can see straightaway, really, with this flour,

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it's not as white as sugar, even.

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It's almost got that sort of grey, browney tint to it as well.

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Nice and fine. In we go with the sugar.

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Now, this is an enriched yeast dough,

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so we're going to add a pinch of salt

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with the sugar.

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And then, what we need to do is just mix this together with the yeast.

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Now, I'm going to use sort of dried yeast for this.

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Add the warm water, about 450 mls of warm water for this.

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So how long's the family actually owned the mill?

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We've always been in the West Country.

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-It started in 1832 in Watchet in Somerset.

-Right.

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And then moved to Bristol, and then my father moved to the present

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mill in 1947, so we've been there...

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Now, is there going to be a sixth generation?

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-Have we got kids in the background?

-No pressure on the kids!

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Is that what they want to do or is that what they're going to

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have to do?

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Apparently, my grandfather was told he had to be a miller.

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He wanted to be a farmer.

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And so, he had to be a miller until he retired,

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and then he became a farmer.

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I don't think you can get away with that these days!

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No, I don't think you can, actually.

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'Once the dough is thoroughly mixed, pop it into a bowl,

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'cover it with clingfilm and allow it to proof for 20 minutes or

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'until it doubles in size.'

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Now we're going to laminate it, which is layers of butter in this.

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So we just basically take this mixture here, and this is

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where it's kind of similar to making sort of puff pastry, really.

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But as I said to you, this is a treat.

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-So I hope Michael likes his butter!

-I certainly do.

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-We've got a block each going in here!

-Excellent!

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There's actually 500 grams of butter going in.

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'Laminated bread is made by folding in layers of butter

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'and dough together.

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'In the oven, steam from the melted butter gets trapped

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'and helps the dough rise.'

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Check this out.

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This is what puts people off about making croissants, you see,

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and stuff like Danish pastries

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because this is the amount of butter that you put in, you know.

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This is not for sort of the health-conscious, Michael,

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you know I mean?

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But what you do with this is you put this over...

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..until you end up with, basically, the layers of butter inside.

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Now, you've got to make a little bit of noise in here.

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If anybody's upset you, now you can get your anger back on them!

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But you're just batting this out.

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It's important to use cold butter as well.

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So you can see, as you're rolling that out, the pieces of butter

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that are trapped in-between that dough get a little bit bigger.

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And then what you do is you can create what we call buck turns.

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So you basically fold the dough over.

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Fold it over into the middle, so it looks like a buck.

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And fold it over again.

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'Repeat this process another two times

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'and then rest the dough in the fridge for an hour.'

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And basically, I'm going to fill this with a mixture.

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And just when you thought there wasn't enough butter and fat

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and everything else going in here, full fat cream cheese with

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a little bit of vanilla and then ground cinnamon.

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'Roll the dough into a rectangle, and then evenly spread your filling.

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'Then simply roll it into a Swiss roll and cut it into thick slices.'

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And then you take one in the centre.

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Six will be enough.

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Around the edge. And then we need to leave this to prove.

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And this is the one that's been proving.

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Again, leave it for about sort of 30, 40 minutes.

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It's one of those things that if you're at home all day,

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then this is the ideal dish to sort of make.

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A little bit of egg wash...

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..over the top. Just brush it.

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And you can see you've got this sort of Catherine Wheel effect to it.

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Now, what we need to do is set the oven quite high.

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This one's set about 400 degrees Fahrenheit, 200 degrees Centigrade.

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And I've got one that's nicely cooked there.

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This'll take about sort of 45 minutes in here.

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'While the rolls are still warm, I like to make a sticky glaze

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'using icing sugar, a bit of Bourbon and maple syrup.'

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If you just pipe this over the top.

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The key to this, Michael, is you just basically just dive in!

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And because we've got that cream cheese in there,

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you've got this lovely sort of filling in amongst it as well.

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There you have it. Dive in. Tell us what you think.

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You're going to need a full day at work to get rid of this,

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the calories in it!

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-That's fantastic. Very good.

-That is good, isn't it?

-Very rich.

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It is pretty rich.

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'But who cares when it tastes this good?

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'These butter-rich rolls are the perfect treat

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'when you have the luxury of a little time.

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'Just make sure you grab one for yourself before the rest

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'of the family does.'

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But like anything, all good things come to thee who waits.

0:18:310:18:35

And if you wait long enough, you can have something like this as well.

0:18:380:18:41

It's delicious.

0:18:410:18:42

Well, patience might be a virtue,

0:18:480:18:51

apart from when it comes to sinful British puds.

0:18:510:18:53

And in his kitchen, food historian Gerard Baker is

0:18:560:18:59

delving into the origins of a perennial British classic.

0:18:590:19:03

What a splendid thing the trifle is! A true home-cooked treat.

0:19:060:19:10

We've got layers of jelly and sponge, fruit, wonderful custard,

0:19:100:19:15

whipped cream and glace cherries and hundreds and thousands on top.

0:19:150:19:19

There's so much going on in there,

0:19:190:19:21

how did all those different elements get into the modern trifle?

0:19:210:19:24

Trifles are an important dish in our foodie evolution.

0:19:250:19:30

And Gerard's making a recipe dating back to 1750 by legendary

0:19:300:19:34

cookbook writer Hannah Glasse.

0:19:340:19:37

Layer by layer, he's going

0:19:370:19:39

to explore how the trifle took older ideas from British food history

0:19:390:19:43

and brought them all together in one iconic super-dessert.

0:19:430:19:48

Like the modern trifle,

0:19:480:19:50

the early trifles did have an element of sponge in there.

0:19:500:19:53

Now, the practice of eating sponge fingers dipped in sweet wine

0:19:530:19:58

dates from about 1600, when the first proper sponge cakes were

0:19:580:20:02

brought from Spain and Italy into the English kitchen.

0:20:020:20:05

In a modern trifle, we have, usually, a raspberry or a strawberry,

0:20:060:20:10

probably a packet jelly, to be honest.

0:20:100:20:13

But historically, a fruit jelly, like a jam kind of jelly,

0:20:130:20:16

would have been used. I'm using plum jelly today.

0:20:160:20:20

Some people still use some jam with their sponge,

0:20:200:20:22

perhaps even in the form of a Swiss roll.

0:20:220:20:25

Now, jelly was eaten in the Medieval dining room.

0:20:250:20:28

It would have been set in small glasses flavoured with spice

0:20:280:20:32

and perhaps fruit juices to be eaten at the end of the meal

0:20:320:20:34

alongside things like the sponge biscuits dipped in sweet wine.

0:20:340:20:39

So the elements of trifle were existing alongside one another as far

0:20:390:20:43

back as 1600.

0:20:430:20:45

Now, I've made a lovely big jug of proper egg

0:20:460:20:50

custard for my traditional trifle.

0:20:500:20:52

This is a lovely, thick mixture of egg yolks, double cream

0:20:530:20:57

and a little bit of vanilla essence.

0:20:570:21:00

Spice would have been used quite widely in early custards,

0:21:000:21:03

and some of the earliest recipes for trifle really are just

0:21:030:21:07

custard set into a shallow dish. The sponge and the jelly came much later.

0:21:070:21:13

The earliest custards weren't eaten as much as drank

0:21:130:21:16

in the way that we drink eggnog sometimes at Christmas today.

0:21:160:21:20

Now, the final, major layer of my trifle is going to be a syllabub.

0:21:220:21:26

It's essentially a sweetened, flavoured cream,

0:21:260:21:29

but it had been around for centuries before it was

0:21:290:21:31

incorporated into our 18th-century trifle.

0:21:310:21:35

The Elizabethan court loved to drink cream whipped with sweetened

0:21:350:21:39

wine, white wine, and spice.

0:21:390:21:41

By the middle of the 18th century,

0:21:430:21:46

sugar was much cheaper than it had been historically

0:21:460:21:49

because an awful lot was brought in from the West Indies.

0:21:490:21:53

So I can put the layer of syllabub on top of the custard to build up

0:21:530:21:58

the proper trifle.

0:21:580:21:59

Now, we love to decorate a trifle, don't we?

0:22:010:22:03

Glace cherries, hundreds and thousands,

0:22:030:22:06

maybe even a bit of Angelica.

0:22:060:22:08

The 18th-century trifle was even more elaborate, even more fanciful.

0:22:090:22:13

If you can't go completely mad with a trifle, when can you?

0:22:130:22:17

The first declaration I'm going to put on my historic trifle is

0:22:180:22:22

a hedgehog.

0:22:220:22:24

Now, that might seem slightly odd but, in fact,

0:22:240:22:26

some of the early trifle recipes were a tipsy cake,

0:22:260:22:30

a cake soaked in alcohol, covered with custard and cream

0:22:300:22:34

and flaked almonds to give the impression of a giant hedgehog.

0:22:340:22:37

So, that's my trifle nearly finished but, of course,

0:22:450:22:48

a classic trifle is not a trifle without hundreds and thousands.

0:22:480:22:52

But what we think of hundreds

0:22:520:22:53

and thousands today actually came from these - sugar-coated seeds

0:22:530:22:58

called comfits, which were very popular from the Medieval time.

0:22:580:23:02

And they're just flavoured seeds covered with sugar and colours.

0:23:020:23:06

So there we have it. An 18th-century home-cooked comfort.

0:23:060:23:10

The really clever thing about Hannah Glasse was that she amalgamated all

0:23:110:23:16

these lovely elements of our dessert history into one fantastic dish.

0:23:160:23:21

An awful lot of history in an awful lot of pudding.

0:23:210:23:24

Eating trifle featured quite a bit in my 1970s childhood.

0:23:270:23:32

Yes, that is me!

0:23:320:23:34

But one dish featured more than most in the '70s and appeared

0:23:340:23:38

at the start of every dinner party - the classic prawn cocktail.

0:23:380:23:42

It was introduced to this country by the doyenne of British post-war

0:23:430:23:47

cookery, Fanny Cradock.

0:23:470:23:50

Six ounces of chopped prawns,

0:23:500:23:53

to which I then add a generous dollop of real mayonnaise.

0:23:530:23:57

With a swish of a chiffon ballgown,

0:23:580:24:01

Fanny brought gastronomy to the home cook.

0:24:010:24:04

This is called une assiette de fruits de mer - fruits of the sea,

0:24:050:24:09

seafoods which make a most lovely presentation dish on a buffet

0:24:090:24:13

when you're going a bit grand.

0:24:130:24:15

Much like Fanny, the kitsch prawn cocktail fell out of fashion,

0:24:150:24:18

but made at home with care, this '70s starter is a classic.

0:24:180:24:23

And I'm upping the treat factor, using luxurious tiger prawns

0:24:250:24:29

and langoustines, all enveloped in a home-made rich Marie Rose sauce.

0:24:290:24:36

What I'm going to use is a combination of langoustines

0:24:360:24:39

and these tiger prawns. Now, you can actually buy them whole, like this.

0:24:390:24:42

These have obviously been frozen.

0:24:420:24:44

But you can actually buy them just with the tails.

0:24:440:24:46

Either way, you can cook them exactly the same.

0:24:460:24:48

And what we're going to do with these is steam them.

0:24:480:24:51

Now, steaming is a much more delicate way of cooking prawns,

0:24:510:24:55

particularly langoustines, cos when you overcook them,

0:24:550:24:57

they go very, very flaky in the centre.

0:24:570:25:00

So to keep them nice and firm, we steam them,

0:25:000:25:02

only for about sort of one minute, one and a half minutes.

0:25:020:25:05

That's all they're going to take.

0:25:050:25:06

So firstly, to make our mayonnaise, you start off with that

0:25:060:25:09

traditionally, really, with some mustard and egg yolks.

0:25:090:25:13

Just a little bit in there.

0:25:150:25:17

And then, what we need to add is just some plain oil.

0:25:170:25:19

Now, one thing you don't want to be doing

0:25:190:25:21

when you're making mayonnaise is adding olive oil.

0:25:210:25:23

Olive oil's got far too much flavour - brilliant for dressings

0:25:230:25:27

and things like that -

0:25:270:25:28

but within mayonnaise, you just want a mild, delicate flavour.

0:25:280:25:31

So just a standard veg oil would be great for this.

0:25:310:25:34

'To begin with, add just a few drops of oil at a time,

0:25:350:25:39

'making sure they combine before adding the next few drops.

0:25:390:25:42

'Once it begins to thicken, you can

0:25:420:25:44

'pour the rest of the oil in a steady stream.'

0:25:440:25:46

Now, really, the misconception with mayonnaise,

0:25:480:25:50

the more oil you add, the thinner it gets. It's actually the opposite.

0:25:500:25:54

The more oil you add, the thicker it gets.

0:25:540:25:56

So you've got your classic mayonnaise there, lovely and thick.

0:25:560:26:00

And then, the water's boiled, ready for our prawns and langoustines.

0:26:000:26:05

Now, because the prawns are going to take slightly longer to cook,

0:26:050:26:08

I'm going to pop these in first.

0:26:080:26:10

Pop the lid on and cook these for about a minute and a half.

0:26:120:26:15

'To finish off the Marie Rose sauce, add some Worcester sauce, a few

0:26:150:26:20

'drops of Tabasco, a touch of brandy and finally, some tomato ketchup.'

0:26:200:26:26

And really,

0:26:280:26:29

the amount of ketchup to mayonnaise should be about one third

0:26:290:26:34

ketchup, two thirds mayonnaise cos you still want to keep that

0:26:340:26:37

mayonnaise sort of flavour.

0:26:370:26:39

We've mixed this together.

0:26:390:26:40

And there we have, you know, that simple,

0:26:430:26:45

classic-looking sauce that we all know and love.

0:26:450:26:48

Great colour, fantastic flavour cos we've made it ourself.

0:26:500:26:54

We can just season this up with some salt, little bit of black pepper.

0:26:540:27:00

What I think it needs is just a squeeze of lemon.

0:27:000:27:05

Now, I remember dishes such as this when I was a young kid,

0:27:050:27:07

when I used to go with the family, with my sister,

0:27:070:27:10

and we used to go to those steakhouses back in the '70s

0:27:100:27:14

and I used to have chicken in a basket. That kind of stuff.

0:27:140:27:17

And steak that was always well-done, even though

0:27:170:27:19

you asked for it sort of medium.

0:27:190:27:21

Dishes like sort of prawn cocktail have been around for so long,

0:27:210:27:25

they should be back on our menu, I think, cos when you realise

0:27:250:27:28

how simple it is to make, I think you'll do it more often.

0:27:280:27:32

Look! There's your little prawns done. Almost cooked now.

0:27:320:27:36

At the same time, now, we can add our langoustines cos

0:27:360:27:38

these are only going to take about a minute.

0:27:380:27:42

'Once the tiger prawns and langoustines are cooked, take

0:27:420:27:45

'them out and allow them to cool for around 10 minutes before peeling.'

0:27:450:27:48

And then, just to finish this off...

0:27:510:27:54

Now, I was going to go very traditional

0:27:540:27:57

and use a butterhead lettuce, really.

0:27:570:27:59

But a little lettuce like this will do or a nice little

0:27:590:28:03

sort of crispy cos, really.

0:28:030:28:05

Something like that would be really nice.

0:28:050:28:07

What we're going to do is basically just rip this up.

0:28:070:28:09

Like that. And then, just lightly dress it.

0:28:120:28:15

This is a combination of honey, vinegar, herbs, bits and pieces.

0:28:150:28:19

But just ever so slight amount of dressing. Not too much.

0:28:190:28:23

Give this a quick mix together.

0:28:260:28:27

And then I had to sort of hark back to the 1970s, really,

0:28:290:28:33

when it comes to presenting this.

0:28:330:28:34

Especially for a dinner party, I think this looks sort of kitsch.

0:28:340:28:39

Good old Martini glass! And then you can pile the lettuce on there.

0:28:390:28:43

Often, when you're doing sort of dinner parties

0:28:470:28:49

and you want a treat, choose something that's simple,

0:28:490:28:52

and you don't really get any more simple than a prawn cocktail.

0:28:520:28:56

But done properly, with really nice prawns.

0:28:560:28:58

Just a bit of that on the top.

0:29:010:29:02

'To finish this dish in true '70s style, I like to garnish it

0:29:060:29:10

'with a slice of lemon, some cress and a pinch of cayenne.'

0:29:100:29:15

You can't have prawn cocktail without bread and butter.

0:29:150:29:18

'This sumptuous treat couldn't be further from the pink

0:29:240:29:27

'goo in a glass many of us might remember.

0:29:270:29:30

'It's posh enough to serve any dinner party.

0:29:300:29:33

'Or for pure indulgence, just make it for yourself.

0:29:330:29:36

'Now, that would be a treat and a half!'

0:29:360:29:38

It is a great combination, that.

0:29:390:29:41

And it goes to prove, some of the best things come out of the '70s.

0:29:410:29:45

I was born in 1972.

0:29:460:29:47

So many of my home-cooked treats are retro classics -

0:29:520:29:56

dishes like Bearnaise sauce, eggs royale...

0:29:560:29:59

..omelette Arnold Bennett and raspberry pavlova.

0:30:010:30:04

'They've all got one ingredient in common...

0:30:060:30:09

'..eggs.

0:30:090:30:10

'Just down the road from me at Heathlands Farm,

0:30:110:30:14

'Ivor Williams and his partner, Pam, produce a whole range

0:30:140:30:17

'of the very best eggs from a selection of 40 rare

0:30:170:30:22

'and traditional breed chickens.'

0:30:220:30:24

We started this about 17/18 years ago.

0:30:260:30:29

It all started off as a bit of a hobby.

0:30:290:30:32

We've got traditional breeds, some of them quite rare,

0:30:320:30:36

on the endangered list.

0:30:360:30:38

These here that we're looking at now, these are just the hybrids we keep

0:30:380:30:42

that the general public have just started buying from us

0:30:420:30:46

to keep in the bottom of their garden because they want their own eggs.

0:30:460:30:49

They want to know where the eggs are coming from

0:30:490:30:52

and they enjoy keeping the birds.

0:30:520:30:54

Keeping the birds happy, there's no mystery to it.

0:30:570:31:00

We let our birds go free range,

0:31:000:31:03

keep them in fresh water and food

0:31:030:31:05

and that is what makes them happy.

0:31:050:31:07

The eggs that our chickens lay,

0:31:100:31:13

we tend to find that they're a lot better than your shop bought ones.

0:31:130:31:18

They're a lot fresher, the taste of the egg

0:31:180:31:21

will come from what you feed the hen

0:31:210:31:23

and what the hen can pick up off the ground.

0:31:230:31:26

You'll find the birds, they will tend to lay in the same place

0:31:270:31:31

and if they are free range,

0:31:310:31:33

sometimes you do have to have a look around because they will go

0:31:330:31:36

and make their nests in the corner somewhere under a bush

0:31:360:31:39

and they up end sitting on them

0:31:390:31:42

and the fox will come along and have her away, if he can.

0:31:420:31:45

Customers do come to us because they want a specific colour in an egg.

0:31:470:31:52

We produce the Cream Legbar which gives us that lovely green egg.

0:31:530:31:58

Then you've got your Welsummer

0:31:580:32:00

which borders on nearly a chocolate egg.

0:32:000:32:03

'Of course chickens aren't the only birds that produce tasty eggs.

0:32:030:32:07

'Ivor and Pam also keep ducks which lay eggs

0:32:070:32:10

'with a very different flavour.'

0:32:100:32:12

In this run here there is just a few of the 400/500 ducks we've got.

0:32:120:32:17

We've built them up to this amount

0:32:180:32:20

because there's a growing demand for the duck eggs.

0:32:200:32:23

In there you'll see two different breeds.

0:32:230:32:26

The brown ones are the Khaki Campbells,

0:32:260:32:29

the white ones are the Cherry Valleys.

0:32:290:32:32

Your duck egg is a richer, more tastier egg.

0:32:320:32:36

For baking, I mean,

0:32:360:32:38

I would use duck egg over chicken egg, especially on my cakes

0:32:380:32:41

because I get a better quality cake at end of the day.

0:32:410:32:45

Can I have a dozen eggs, please?

0:32:450:32:46

We sell a lot of our eggs from the gate, the chicken eggs especially.

0:32:480:32:52

The surplus that we have go off to a wholesaler who distributes them

0:32:520:32:57

to a lot of local places around here.

0:32:570:32:59

Namely cafes, restaurants,

0:32:590:33:02

hotels, pubs, anyone that cooks with them.

0:33:020:33:06

'One of those restaurants is run by chef, Jason Hornbuckle.

0:33:060:33:10

'The farm's eggs are just the sort of ingredient he looks for.'

0:33:100:33:14

We get the eggs in every week.

0:33:150:33:17

They come in delivered fresh, they're beautiful, very rich,

0:33:170:33:21

the yolks are beautiful, the whites very fresh.

0:33:210:33:24

I love using the eggs for baking or just on their own.

0:33:240:33:28

The product is absolutely fantastic.

0:33:280:33:30

'It's the duck eggs that Jason likes to showcase in his cooking

0:33:300:33:34

'and his crispy duck egg with celery and hazelnut salad

0:33:340:33:37

'is a real treat.'

0:33:370:33:40

They're a lot richer.

0:33:400:33:41

The yolks are a lot, lot richer but the richness works really

0:33:410:33:45

well in cooking so long as you pair it well.

0:33:450:33:47

Boil the eggs for six minutes, put them into ice

0:33:490:33:52

and then we're going to take the shell off.

0:33:520:33:54

Stunning. Look at that.

0:33:540:33:56

Beautiful and soft.

0:33:560:33:58

Then we're going to make a little bit of salad with hazelnuts,

0:33:580:34:01

watercress and rocket.

0:34:010:34:03

Then we will coat the eggs in a little mixture of celery salt,

0:34:030:34:07

coriander seeds and breadcrumbs and then deep fry it.

0:34:070:34:11

This is a great dish, it's great way to eat it

0:34:200:34:22

and, for me, I could eat it all day long.

0:34:220:34:25

'For a boy who grew up on a farm, I can really appreciate having

0:34:310:34:35

'such great, fresh produce right on my doorstep.

0:34:350:34:38

'On the farm, one meal was a treat above all others...

0:34:380:34:42

'..a roast.

0:34:420:34:44

'But not just any roast, it's my weeping roast lamb

0:34:450:34:48

with boulangere potatoes and my gran's mint sauce.'

0:34:480:34:53

I'm going to do this a weeping-style lamb.

0:34:550:34:57

It's a fantastic way of cooking lamb, when you're doing potatoes like this.

0:34:570:35:01

What you do for this is make incisions all over the lamb.

0:35:010:35:05

This is good old Welsh lamb which is from about 100 miles

0:35:050:35:09

in that direction.

0:35:090:35:11

Fantastic, there are so many different types of lamb in the UK.

0:35:110:35:15

Salt marsh lamb, all manner of different joints,

0:35:150:35:19

as well to choose from.

0:35:190:35:21

It really is special when it's in season.

0:35:210:35:24

I'm going to make incisions all over the surface like that

0:35:240:35:27

and then grab some garlic.

0:35:270:35:29

Just take the garlic...

0:35:290:35:30

You want decent slivers of garlic

0:35:300:35:33

and then you grab a nice little bit of rosemary

0:35:330:35:36

and just stick...

0:35:360:35:38

..the garlic in the centre.

0:35:380:35:41

It is actually a classic way of roasting a joint of lamb like this.

0:35:410:35:45

But the garlic infuses throughout, that's why you want to

0:35:450:35:48

stick it inside that cavity, get it right down deep.

0:35:480:35:53

As it cooks it basically infuses and almost dissolves to nothing really.

0:35:530:35:58

Get plenty of rosemary in there.

0:35:580:36:00

I remember when I used to work in London

0:36:000:36:02

we used to stud this with anchovies, as well,

0:36:020:36:05

to add additional flavour but really it's not everybody's

0:36:050:36:09

cup of tea, particularly if I did this with my mother around for dinner.

0:36:090:36:14

She wouldn't be too impressed

0:36:140:36:16

getting an anchovy fillet mixed with her favourite cut of meat.

0:36:160:36:20

A little drizzle of oil will just help in the cooking process,

0:36:200:36:24

first of all, and a good sprinkling of salt over the top.

0:36:240:36:29

We're just going to leave that to one side because the actual potato

0:36:290:36:33

dish takes the same amount of time as it takes to cook the lamb.

0:36:330:36:37

I'm going to do a real classic for this, it's boulangere potatoes,

0:36:380:36:42

that famous potato dish that originates from France.

0:36:420:36:44

'Potatoes boulangere literally translates as baker's potatoes.

0:36:460:36:50

'When the French bakers had finished baking, local people would

0:36:520:36:56

'bring this dish to be cooked in the residual heat of their bread ovens.'

0:36:560:37:00

I was going to say there has to be an invention to do potatoes quicker

0:37:000:37:05

but for the women watching this,

0:37:050:37:07

you've got one, it's called your husband!

0:37:070:37:10

'Once your husband has peeled the potatoes, cut them

0:37:120:37:15

'and some onions into thin slices.'

0:37:150:37:17

All we do is just layer this up so every time you slice it,

0:37:190:37:23

stick a layer of onions in,

0:37:230:37:26

a layer of potatoes.

0:37:260:37:28

The thing is with this don't be poncey, it's not a poncey dish.

0:37:280:37:32

It's supposed to be like this, it is supposed to be rustic,

0:37:320:37:35

that's what it is. It's all the flavour all in one dish.

0:37:350:37:39

Every time you do it,

0:37:390:37:41

a bit of salt, a bit of black pepper...

0:37:410:37:44

And then you build up another layer.

0:37:470:37:50

'Continue to build up the potato and onion layers

0:37:500:37:52

'and if chopping onions makes you weepy, I might have a solution.'

0:37:520:37:57

And what I got sent to me, are these.

0:37:570:37:59

Onion glasses.

0:38:060:38:07

The whole point of this is a sharp knife.

0:38:090:38:12

If you have a sharp knife, you don't cry.

0:38:120:38:15

And you don't look a total idiot!

0:38:170:38:21

'Once you've finished your layers,

0:38:220:38:24

'pour chicken stock half way up the dish

0:38:240:38:26

'and top it with, what else, but a little butter.'

0:38:260:38:29

Now I've set the oven to about 400 degrees Fahrenheit,

0:38:300:38:34

that's 200 degrees Centigrade so quite a hot oven

0:38:340:38:36

because we're going to cook the potatoes in the bottom shelf.

0:38:360:38:40

This is where the lamb comes in.

0:38:400:38:42

What you need to do is get a cooling rack,

0:38:420:38:44

turn it the other way up,

0:38:440:38:45

because it's easier to take out of the oven,

0:38:450:38:48

and take the lamb...

0:38:480:38:50

..and place that on the cooling rack.

0:38:520:38:56

There's no real oven tray for this.

0:38:560:38:57

What's going to happen is the juices from the lamb will drip down

0:38:570:39:01

while it cooks onto your potatoes.

0:39:010:39:03

That's why you need to put this right over the top of the potatoes,

0:39:030:39:06

otherwise you're going to set the fire alarms off in your house.

0:39:060:39:10

You sit that meat on there,

0:39:100:39:13

close the oven door and leave it for about 1.5 hours.

0:39:130:39:17

While that's cooking, I can give Fudge his favourite treat,

0:39:200:39:24

a nice walk in the country.

0:39:240:39:26

To serve with the lamb, I'm making a rich, red wine gravy.

0:39:330:39:36

So you just put a little bit in.

0:39:380:39:41

A bottle!

0:39:460:39:48

And then you use some good quality stock,

0:39:480:39:52

chicken stock or really with lamb, beef stock is really good.

0:39:520:39:56

We just pour that in.

0:39:560:39:59

This is real key to this.

0:39:590:40:01

You bring it to the boil and reduce it down by about three quarters.

0:40:010:40:04

'While the red wine gravy reduces,

0:40:050:40:07

'I can get on chopping the mint for my mint sauce.'

0:40:070:40:10

My granny always used to make her own mint sauce

0:40:110:40:14

and it's one of the things that I always remember for Sunday lunch,

0:40:140:40:19

my granny would be allowed to make the mint sauce.

0:40:190:40:21

Well, not allowed, she had to make the mint sauce

0:40:210:40:23

because nobody was as good at making it as my gran.

0:40:230:40:26

'With the mint chopped, add some vinegar to the pan

0:40:260:40:30

'and, like Gran, I'm not using anything fancy.'

0:40:300:40:34

Exactly the same malt vinegar as you put on your fish and chips.

0:40:360:40:38

Fish and chip night was a Tuesday night in my granny's house.

0:40:400:40:43

Next add a pinch of caster sugar and salt

0:40:450:40:48

and, once it's dissolved, take it off the heat.

0:40:480:40:50

Now all you have to do is throw in your chopped mint and mix.

0:40:500:40:53

'By now the lamb should be done and so should the potatoes.

0:41:040:41:08

'While they rest, turn your attention back

0:41:090:41:11

'to the red wine gravy.'

0:41:110:41:13

Now I'm just going to finish off this sauce.

0:41:140:41:16

The sauce has been reducing down nicely.

0:41:160:41:19

A quick taste of this.

0:41:190:41:21

That's really nice but one thing it does need is a little bit of butter.

0:41:240:41:28

This is called Monteux beurre, it's to finish a sauce.

0:41:280:41:32

This makes the difference between a sauce that you cook at home

0:41:330:41:37

and one that you'll find when you go and eat out.

0:41:370:41:40

You can still create it at home by adding this little bit of butter.

0:41:400:41:44

The secret is the texture needs to be right

0:41:440:41:47

and you get that by reducing the stock.

0:41:470:41:50

What you end up is this lovely, rich sauce.

0:41:500:41:54

Which you can see there almost looks see-through, really.

0:41:540:41:57

That's fantastic. So often you don't need to season it at all.

0:42:000:42:03

All that's left to do is assemble this onto the plate.

0:42:050:42:09

And then give it a try.

0:42:090:42:11

Life just does not get any better.

0:42:190:42:21

Well, it does.

0:42:230:42:25

I could have Heidi Klum here.

0:42:250:42:26

But as I don't have supermodel Heidi,

0:42:300:42:33

I'll have to make do with this lot.

0:42:330:42:34

Guys, you've got to try this.

0:42:360:42:37

Taste that. Taste that.

0:42:390:42:42

A night at home doesn't have to mean boring home cooking.

0:42:420:42:46

And we can all treat ourselves to something a bit special

0:42:460:42:49

without too much effort.

0:42:490:42:51

After all, don't we deserve it?

0:42:510:42:54

If you'd like to know more about how to cook any of the recipes

0:42:580:43:01

featured on today's show, you can get all of them on our website.

0:43:010:43:04

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